JP3407438B2 - Stretch warp knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable warp knitted fabric used as a body material for clothes, especially foundations.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a stretchable warp knitted fabric in which a ground structure is formed from a synthetic fiber filament having high alkali resistance such as nylon, a hygroscopic spun yarn such as cotton is used as an insert knit, and an elastic elastic yarn such as spandex is inserted. Are generally called cotton back triconets or cotton back satin nets, and are often used as foundation fabrics.

[0003]

Since the hygroscopic spun yarns are ubiquitous on the back surface of these stretchable warp knitted fabrics, they are excellent in hygroscopicity and have a comfortable feeling such as feeling on the skin. However, by inserting and knitting the hygroscopic spun yarn, the voids in the knitted fabric are reduced, so the flexibility of the knitted fabric is insufficient, and the elongation in the warp and weft directions is unbalanced, especially in the weft direction. There is a drawback that there are few.

Further, the reason why the flexibility of the knitted fabric is insufficient is that the hygroscopic spun yarn such as cotton yarn to be used has a large thickness in order to improve the operability (warping property, knitting property, etc.) during the production of the knitted fabric. ,
It can also be mentioned that there are restrictions on the thread structure and the like. For example,
4 reeds often used as foundation body material 2
In an 8-gauge 4-coarse triconet, generally, 30 to 50 denier nylon filaments for the first and second reeds that form the ground structure, 40 to 60 cotton yarn for the third reed, and 140 to 280 denier spandex for the fourth reed are used. In this case, the thickness of the nylon filament and spandex is selected from the required quality depending on the application, and there are no restrictions on physical properties and quality. On the other hand, if the cotton thread is thicker than 40s / 1,
There are restrictions on the required quality, such as the thickness of the knitted fabric being too thick, but the physical properties and quality of the yarn are restricted for thin ones. If the thread becomes thinner,
Along with the decrease in the average strength, the minimum strength also decreases, which causes problems in operation such as frequent thread cutting in the manufacturing process such as warping and knitting, and also deteriorates the product yield. In order to improve these, a method of increasing the twist number of the spun yarn or covering a cotton single yarn with a thin nylon filament for strong reinforcement, or a method of making a thin cotton single yarn into a twin yarn and twisting it (for example, 100s / 2) The method of using it is also implemented. However, all of these methods tend to lower the flexibility, and are suitable for the required quality such as a crispness and a jelly taste, but are disadvantageous in the field where softness and flexibility are required.

The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art in stretchable warp knitted fabrics of hygroscopic fiber yarn interlaced knitted fabrics such as conventionally known cotton triconette and cotton satin net. It is to provide a fabric that is soft and has a good balance of warp and weft expansion and contraction. Further, an object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable warp knitted fabric in which a decrease in operability due to warping, yarn breakage in a knitting process, etc. is prevented as much as possible during production, production efficiency is improved and production yield is improved. To provide.

[0006]

In the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the ground structure is formed of a synthetic fiber filament having a high alkali resistance, and the insertion yarn is composed of a cellulosic fiber and a synthetic fiber having a low alkali resistance. A warp knitted fabric using a composite yarn and a stretchable elastic yarn, which is characterized by being alkali-reduced. In the present invention, the form of the composite yarn is preferably a mixed yarn, a mixed yarn, or a multi-layer structure yarn of short fibers and filaments. Further, in the present invention, the mixing ratio of the synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance in the composite yarn is 30 to 70% by weight,
And it is preferable that the alkali weight loss rate is 30% or more.

In the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the alkali reduction processing reduces the amount of synthetic fibers having low alkali resistance, increases the voids in the composite yarn, imparts a soft feeling, and the voids and compressibility. By utilizing, the ground structure and the elastic elastic yarn become easy to move in the knitted fabric, and the elasticity is increased.

The present invention will be described in detail below. In the present invention, examples of the synthetic fiber filament having a high alkali resistance that forms the ground structure include nylon and polyethylene terephthalate, and among these, nylon is suitable. Further, the synthetic fiber filament is generally preferably a multifilament having a thickness of 20 to 70 denier, more preferably a multifilament having a thickness of 20 to 60 denier. If it is less than 20 denier, the knitted fabric physical properties such as burst strength and tear strength are deteriorated, which is not preferable. Recently, there are high-strength nylons with fine denier, so 20
Can be used up to denier. On the other hand, if it exceeds 70 denier, the knitted fabric becomes too thick to be practical.

In the composite yarn of the cellulosic fiber and the synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance, which is one of the important elements of the present invention, examples of the cellulosic fiber include cotton and polynosic rayon. Polyester is suitable as a synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance, but in order to facilitate the weight reduction process at the time of dyeing, a polyester containing a metal salt sulfonate group and having at least a part of the polymer terminal blocked is used. Modified polyesters such as polymerized polyesters are preferred.

As a method for compositing both the cellulosic fiber and the synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance, when both are short fibers, uniform mixing by a blending method is preferable. Further, when one of the filaments is a filament, it is preferable to use a spinning process to electrically open the fiber, draft a short fiber roving, and uniformly mix it. Furthermore, while drafting the roving yarn that has been uniformly mixed in the roving step and winding a synthetic fiber filament with low alkali resistance using a hollow spindle, the yarn is almost untwisted by the weight reduction process, and is soft and has a high porosity, which is preferable. . A group mixing method based on the spinning and twisting method can be used, but in order to obtain a knitted fabric having a soft feeling and a well-balanced stretchability of the present invention, it is preferable to use uniformly mixed roving and use this method. . When both are filaments, uniform mixing by a fiber mixing method is preferable, but in consideration of the softness of fluff, physical properties of fabric such as pilling resistance, and quality, short fibers are preferable as the cellulose fibers.

The blending ratio of the synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance in the composite yarn is preferably 30 to 70% by weight, and 30 to 5% by weight.
0% by weight is more preferred. If the mixing ratio is less than 30% by weight, the porosity of the composite yarn decreases even if the knitted fabric is subjected to weight reduction processing, which is not preferable. Conversely, if it exceeds 70% by weight,
The porosity of the composite yarn in the finished fabric becomes too large,
Since the cellulosic fibers easily fall off, defects such as pilling are likely to occur in quality. The composite yarn used count is 30 ~
The range of 80s / 1 is good, preferably 40s / 1 to 60s / 1
Is. However, the minimum strength is 130g and the average strength is 15
It is preferably 0 g or more.

In the present invention, examples of the elastic elastic yarn include polybutylene terephthalate; spandex such as ether polyurethane and ester polyurethane; and polyether / ester elastic yarn.
Among these, polyurethane having excellent elasticity and good recovery is suitable, and among them, ester polyurethane is preferable because it has durability against alkali.

The knitting structure applicable in the present invention may be any knitting structure as long as it forms a ground structure with a synthetic fiber filament having high alkali resistance, but in practice, it is a 4-coarse triconet,
6-course triconet, 4-course satin net, 6-course satin net and the like are preferable. Into these stretchable elastic knitted fabrics, the composite yarn of the above-described cellulosic fibers and synthetic fibers having low alkali resistance is used as an insert knit. Since the composite yarn is not directly involved in the physical properties of the knitted fabric such as tear strength and burst strength, it can be applied unless the insertion structure also reduces stretchability, and the thread arrangement is not only a full set but also thread pullout, etc. can do. The knitted fabric thus obtained is dyed, and in this case, it is basically the same as the usual process for modified polyester. That is, the raw bar is relaxed and preset, and then the weight reduction process is performed. For weight reduction processing, the surface of the polyethylene fiber is dissolved using an alkaline agent such as NaOH, sodium silicate, or Na ₂ CO ₃ . In this case, a quaternary ammonium salt may be added to accelerate the dissolution. Specifically, the weight reduction processing is performed, for example, by using a knitted fabric in an aqueous solution of 30 g / l of NaOH at 70 ° C. for 30 minutes.
It can be performed by dipping at a bath ratio of 1:30. In the present invention, the weight reduction rate of the synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance such as polyester yarn fiber is not particularly limited, but the weight reduction rate is preferably 30% or more for the purpose of the present invention. But the thread composition,
The preferable weight loss rate depends on the knitting structure. In the process after the weight reduction processing, synthetic fibers having high alkali resistance, cellulose fibers, and synthetic fibers having low alkali resistance are dyed. When the weight loss rate is high or when the color is light, it is not necessary to dye the synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance. After dyeing, finish processing such as final setting and antistatic processing is performed.

[0014]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these.

[Example 1] A knitting structure was a four-cotton triconet backing cotton, nylon filament 40 denier 10 filament for front reed L ₁ and middle reed L ₂ , respectively, polyurethane elastic yarn 140 denier for back reed L ₃ , back reed The composite yarns described below were arranged in L ₄ in a full set. The knitting organization of each reed is as follows. L ₁ : 02/44/64/22 L ₂ : 22/20/22/24 L ₃ : 22/00/22/44 L ₄ : 00/22/44/22 FIG. 1 shows a knitting structure chart. A ground tissue is formed by the threads of L ₁ and L ₂ , and L ₃ and L ₄ are insertion tissues. The composition of the composite yarn arranged in L ₄ is as follows: Polynosic 1.0 denier, 38 mm cut fiber as cellulosic fiber, 0.7 denier, 32 mm polyester cut fiber as low alkali resistance synthetic fiber. Is selected, and the mixture ratio of synthetic fibers with low alkali resistance in the composite yarn is 40%.
And Both were mixed in the drawing process to obtain a uniform mixture, which was spun and twisted in the spinning process to produce 50s / 1. The mixing ratio of each fiber constituting the knitted fabric is as follows:
Nylon 62.6%, Espa 9.9%, Composite yarn 27.5
% (Polyester 11.0%, Polynosic 16.5
%) Knitting conditions and physical property values are shown in Table 1.

[0016]

[Table 1]

Warping and knitting were performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a knitted fabric.
Compared to normal cotton yarn, the composite yarn has a high average tenacity because it contains an ester, and also has a high tying force, and because it has few fluffs, it has very few troubles such as thread breakage in the warping and knitting process. It was halved compared to.

The resulting knitted fabric (raw fabric) was finished by the following processing steps to obtain a stretchable warp knitted fabric: relaxed → preset → scouring bleaching → (weight reduction processing) → hot water washing → dyeing → hot water washing → finishing The set weight reduction process was carried out at an aqueous solution of 200 g / l NaOH, a bath ratio of 1:30, a weight reduction temperature of 98 ° C., and a weight reduction rate of 40%. The weight loss rate indicates the weight loss rate of synthetic fibers having low alkali resistance in the composite yarn.

[Examples 2 to 4] The weight loss rate is 60%.
(Example 2), 80% (Example 3) 29% (Example 4)
A stretchable warp knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weight reduction processing was performed so that.

[Comparative Example] A stretchable warp knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weight reduction processing was not performed. Table 2 shows the above conditions, the amount of finished fabric properties, and the physical properties of fabrics.

[0021]

[Table 2]

As is clear from Table 2, in Examples 1 to 4 which were subjected to the weight reduction processing, the elongation rate, flexibility and the like were improved as compared with the comparative example. In particular, in Examples 1 to 3 in which the weight loss rate is 30% or more, a significant improvement effect on the extension rate, flexibility, etc. is obtained.

[0023]

As described above, the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention is soft and excellent in stretch balance of warp and weft. Further, in producing the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention, warp and yarn breakage in the knitting process are extremely small, which improves the production efficiency and the production yield.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a knitting structure.

[Explanation of symbols]

L ₁ , L ₂ ... Threads forming the ground texture L ₃ , L ₄ ... Threads of the insertion texture

Continuation of the front page (56) Reference JP-A-3-97972 (JP, A) JP-A-57-51871 (JP, A) JP-A-5-44158 (JP, A) JP-B-41-21067 (JP) , B1) (58) Fields surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06M 11/00-11/84 D04B 1/00-1/28 D04B 21/00-21/20 Z D03D 1/00-27 / 18

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A warp knitted fabric in which a ground structure is formed of synthetic fiber filaments having high alkali resistance, and a composite yarn composed of cellulosic fibers and synthetic fibers having low alkali resistance and a stretchable elastic yarn are used as insertion yarns. A stretchable warp knitted fabric characterized by being processed by alkali reduction. 2. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the form of the composite yarn is a mixed spun yarn, a mixed yarn, or a multi-layer structure yarn of short fibers and filaments. 3. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixture ratio of the synthetic fiber having low alkali resistance in the composite yarn is 30 to 70% by weight, and the alkali weight loss ratio is 30% or more. .