JP2006132008A - Core yarn-sewing thread - Google Patents

Core yarn-sewing thread Download PDF

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JP2006132008A
JP2006132008A JP2004318945A JP2004318945A JP2006132008A JP 2006132008 A JP2006132008 A JP 2006132008A JP 2004318945 A JP2004318945 A JP 2004318945A JP 2004318945 A JP2004318945 A JP 2004318945A JP 2006132008 A JP2006132008 A JP 2006132008A
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yarn
sewing
fiber
core
bamboo
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Naotaka Yamaga
直貴 山賀
Ikuko Watanabe
いく子 渡辺
Goji Shimada
剛司 嶋田
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Toray Industries Inc
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Toray Industries Inc
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a core yarn-sewing thread improved with its strength and sewing characteristics without damaging the characteristics of a bamboo fiber, and a sewn product. <P>SOLUTION: This sewing thread obtained by doubling and twisting in a plurality of core yarns obtained by arranging a long fiber thread at a core part and a short fiber threads at a sheath part is characterized by containing the bamboo fiber in the core yarn. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

本発明は、竹繊維を含むコアヤーン縫糸に関し、さらに詳しくは可縫性に優れ、かつ高い吸放湿性と鮮やかな縫目発色性を持つコアヤーン縫糸および縫製品に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a core yarn sewing thread containing bamboo fibers, and more particularly to a core yarn sewing thread and a sewing product that are excellent in sewability and have high moisture absorption / release characteristics and vivid seam coloring.

近年、植物を原料とした新素材として竹を原料とした繊維からなる繊維製品が注目されている。この繊維は高い吸放湿性や人体に良いとされるマイナスイオン発生効果を持ち、衣料やインテリア関係など幅広い分野で用いられている。   In recent years, fiber products made of fiber made from bamboo have attracted attention as a new material made from plants. This fiber has high moisture absorption and release and negative ion generation effect that is considered good for the human body, and is used in a wide range of fields such as clothing and interior.

また、従来これらの製品を縫製するための縫糸には、ポリエステルやナイロンといった合成繊維からなる縫糸がある。   Conventionally, sewing threads for sewing these products include sewing threads made of synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon.

しかしこれらの縫糸は、合成繊維独自の色合いを持っているため、竹繊維からなる布帛を縫製する場合、色合わせが困難であるという欠点がある。また、上記したような竹繊維の特徴である吸放湿性やマイナスイオンの発生を阻害してしまうといった欠点がある。   However, since these sewing threads have a color unique to synthetic fibers, there is a drawback that color matching is difficult when sewing a fabric made of bamboo fibers. Moreover, there exists a fault that the moisture absorption / release property and generation | occurrence | production of a negative ion which are the characteristics of the above bamboo fibers will be inhibited.

上記の問題に対して、竹を原料とするセルロースレーヨン繊維を含む繊維束を中撚もしくは強撚することにより張りおよび腰のある糸を得る方法が提案されている(例えば、特許文献1参照)。   In order to solve the above problem, a method has been proposed in which a fiber bundle containing cellulose rayon fiber made from bamboo is subjected to medium twisting or strong twisting to obtain a yarn having tension and waist (for example, see Patent Document 1). .

しかしながら、この提案による糸は、引張強力が低く、縫糸として用いた場合、縫製中の糸切れや縫製後の縫目の耐久性が低くなり、また、トルクバランスが極めて悪く、縫製中にスナールが発生して目飛びや糸切れを起こしやすい。   However, the thread of this proposal has a low tensile strength, and when used as a sewing thread, the thread breakage during sewing and the durability of the stitches after sewing are low, and the torque balance is extremely poor, and snare does not occur during sewing. It is easy to cause skipping and thread breakage.

また、竹材を含水、蒸気、薬品処理などで適宜に軟化させて、該竹材組織から綿状の竹繊維を抽出し、該綿状の竹繊維から短繊維を除去してなる竹長繊維を繊維原料となし、該竹長繊維に梳毛、紡毛などの紡績を施して梳毛糸、紡毛糸などの紡績糸に製糸加工することにより、風通しの良い糸を得る方法が提案されている(例えば、特許文献2参照)。   In addition, the bamboo material is appropriately softened by moisture, steam, chemical treatment, etc., and cotton-like bamboo fibers are extracted from the bamboo material structure, and the short fibers are removed from the cotton-like bamboo fibers. There has been proposed a method for obtaining a well-ventilated yarn by forming the bamboo long fiber into a spun yarn such as a worsted yarn or a spun yarn by spinning the bamboo long fiber into a raw yarn, and processing the spun yarn such as a worsted yarn or a spun yarn (for example, a patent Reference 2).

しかしながら、この提案による糸は、引張強力が低く、縫糸として用いた場合、やはり縫製中の糸切れや縫製後の縫目の耐久性が低く、トルクバランスが極めて悪く、縫製中にスナールが発生して目飛びや糸切れを起こしやすい。   However, the yarn of this proposal has a low tensile strength, and when used as a sewing thread, the thread breakage during sewing and the durability of the stitches after sewing are low, the torque balance is extremely poor, and snare occurs during sewing. It is easy to cause skipping and thread breakage.

つまり、一般衣料用の繊維糸条として製造された竹繊維糸条をそのまま縫糸として用いることは低強力や縫製不良につき現状の技術ではできなかった。
特許第3448526号公報 実用新案登録第3080297号公報
In other words, it is impossible to use bamboo fiber yarns manufactured as fiber yarns for general clothing as sewing yarns as they are because of low strength and poor sewing.
Japanese Patent No. 3448526 Utility Model Registration No. 3080297

本発明の目的は、上記した問題点を解決することにあり、少なくとも竹繊維を含んだステープルの短繊維糸条もしくはフィラメントの長繊維糸条を用いて、芯部の長繊維糸条を短繊維糸条で覆うように配置してコアヤーンとすることにより、竹繊維の持つ特徴を損なわずに強力および縫製性が向上するコアヤーン縫糸および縫製品を提供することにある。   An object of the present invention is to solve the above-described problems, and at least a staple short fiber yarn or a filament long fiber yarn containing bamboo fibers is used, and the long fiber yarn of the core portion is short fiber. It is an object of the present invention to provide a core yarn sewing thread and a sewn product which are arranged so as to be covered with yarns to form a core yarn, thereby improving the strength and sewing properties without impairing the characteristics of bamboo fibers.

上記の目的を達成するため、本発明は以下の構成を採用する。すなわち、
(1)長繊維糸条を芯部に、短繊維糸条を鞘部に配置したコアヤーンが複数本合わされ撚りが施された縫糸において、該コアヤーンに竹繊維が含まれていることを特徴とするコアヤーン縫糸。
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following configuration. That is,
(1) In a sewing thread in which a plurality of core yarns each having a long fiber yarn arranged in a core portion and a short fiber yarn arranged in a sheath portion are combined and twisted, bamboo fiber is contained in the core yarn. Core yarn sewing thread.

(2)前記竹繊維が短繊維糸条に含まれていることを特徴とする前記(1)に記載のコアヤーン縫糸。   (2) The core yarn sewing thread according to (1), wherein the bamboo fiber is contained in a short fiber yarn.

(3)前記(1)または(2)のいずれかに記載のコアヤーン縫糸によって縫製されていることを特徴とする縫製品。   (3) A sewn product that is sewn with the core yarn sewing thread according to any one of (1) and (2).

本発明に係るコアヤーン縫糸は、竹繊維を含んでいるので該繊維からなる布帛との色合わせが容易である。天然繊維特有の自然な色目は合成繊維のような画一的な色目ではなく、多色で微妙な色合いの集合による色目となるので、竹繊維糸条からなる生地との色目のなじみが極めて自然感になり高級感のある縫製品となる。   Since the core yarn sewing thread according to the present invention contains bamboo fiber, color matching with a fabric made of the fiber is easy. The natural color unique to natural fibers is not a uniform color like synthetic fibers, but a color due to a collection of multi-colored and delicate shades, so the familiarity with the fabric made of bamboo fiber yarn is extremely natural It becomes a feeling and becomes a high-quality sewing product.

また、竹繊維を含む糸条を用いて製造されたコアヤーン縫糸は、布帛が持つ吸放湿性を阻害せずに、着心地の良い衣料を得ることができる。   Moreover, the core yarn sewing thread manufactured using the yarn containing bamboo fibers can provide a comfortable garment without impairing the moisture absorption and release properties of the fabric.

該コアヤーン縫糸はコアヤーン構造であるため、芯糸となるフィラメントの長繊維糸条が鞘糸の短繊維糸条の引張強力を補助し、縫製時の糸切れを阻止し、また縫製後の縫目の耐久性を向上させる。   Since the core yarn thread has a core yarn structure, the long filament yarn of the filament serving as the core yarn assists the tensile strength of the short fiber yarn of the sheath yarn, prevents yarn breakage during sewing, and the stitches after sewing Improves durability.

本発明のコアヤーン縫糸は、吸放湿性に優れており、竹繊維を含んだ生地の縫製に最適である。該竹繊維を含んだ生地の吸放湿性と竹繊維を含むコアヤーン縫糸の吸放湿性が同等になるので、なじみが良くなる。特に汗をかいたときや、水分吸収、洗濯など、あるいはアイロンプレス、ドライクリーニングにより、生地と縫糸の間にパッカリングや、微妙な色目差、汚染差、光沢差などが生じにくくなる。   The core yarn sewing thread of the present invention is excellent in moisture absorption and desorption, and is optimal for sewing fabrics containing bamboo fibers. Since the moisture absorption / release property of the fabric containing the bamboo fiber and the moisture absorption / release property of the core yarn sewing yarn containing the bamboo fiber are equal, the familiarity is improved. In particular, when sweating, moisture absorption, washing, etc., iron pressing, and dry cleaning, puckering, subtle color difference, contamination difference, and gloss difference are less likely to occur between the fabric and the sewing thread.

本発明のコアヤーン縫糸使いの縫製品は、縫製物が竹繊維を含むものからなる場合、同じ色に染めた時に縫目が布帛と同様のマイルドな光沢を持つ。また、高い吸放湿性を持つため、衣料に用いた場合、極めて違和感のない着心地が良い縫製品を得ることができる。   The sewn product using the core yarn sewing thread of the present invention has a mild luster similar to that of the fabric when the sewn product is made of a material containing bamboo fibers when dyed in the same color. In addition, since it has high moisture absorption and desorption properties, when used in clothing, it is possible to obtain a sewn product that is extremely comfortable and has no uncomfortable feeling.

まず、本発明に用いる竹繊維は、従来公知の再生セルロース系繊維と同様の製造方法、例えばビスコース法であれば竹を原料とするパルプをアルカリおよび二硫化炭素と反応させ、アルカリザンテートとして苛性ソーダに溶解して紡糸し、凝固・再生することにより製造することができる。   First, the bamboo fiber used in the present invention is produced in the same manner as a conventionally known regenerated cellulosic fiber. For example, if it is a viscose method, pulp made from bamboo is reacted with alkali and carbon disulfide to produce alkali xanthate. It can be produced by dissolving in caustic soda, spinning, coagulating and regenerating.

本発明に用いる短繊維は、繊維長が10〜500mmの範囲にある繊維であることが好ましく、30〜200mmであることがより好ましい。繊維長が10mm未満であると縫製時の針と糸との摩擦で繊維が抜けやすく、針穴が詰まったり糸が切れる原因となるため好ましくない。逆に繊維長が500mmを超えると、長い毛羽が多くなり、縫目の外観を損なうため好ましくない。   The short fiber used in the present invention is preferably a fiber having a fiber length in the range of 10 to 500 mm, and more preferably 30 to 200 mm. If the fiber length is less than 10 mm, the fibers are likely to come off due to friction between the needle and the thread during sewing, and this is not preferable because the needle hole is clogged or the thread is broken. On the other hand, if the fiber length exceeds 500 mm, long fluff increases and the appearance of the seam is impaired.

また、本発明に用いる短繊維糸条は、上記短繊維が複数本長さ方向に引き揃えられ束状になったものをいう。   Further, the short fiber yarn used in the present invention refers to a bundle in which a plurality of the short fibers are aligned in the length direction.

また、本発明に用いる竹繊維は鞘側の短繊維糸条に用いることが好ましい。この場合、該竹繊維を含む短繊維糸条の竹繊維の単繊維繊度は0.2〜3.0dtexの範囲であることが好ましく、さらに好ましくは0.8〜1.8dtexの範囲である。繊度が0.2dtex未満であると糸に張りと腰がなく、縫製時に上糸のループの形成が困難となるため好ましくない。逆に繊度が3.0dtexを超えると曲げ剛性が高くなり、縫糸製造工程の撚糸中の撚り戻りの現象が起こりやすく、合撚した糸が針との摩擦で分解されるため好ましくない。   Moreover, it is preferable to use the bamboo fiber used for this invention for the short fiber yarn of a sheath side. In this case, the single fiber fineness of the bamboo fiber of the short fiber yarn containing the bamboo fiber is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 3.0 dtex, more preferably in the range of 0.8 to 1.8 dtex. If the fineness is less than 0.2 dtex, the yarn does not have tension and waist, and it is difficult to form a loop of the upper thread at the time of sewing. On the other hand, if the fineness exceeds 3.0 dtex, the bending rigidity becomes high, the phenomenon of untwisting in the twisted yarn in the sewing thread manufacturing process is likely to occur, and the twisted yarn is decomposed by friction with the needle, which is not preferable.

また、上記竹繊維を含む短繊維の引張破断強度は1.0〜7.5cN/dtexが好ましく、さらに好ましくは1.4〜5.0cN/dtexである。引張破断強度が1.0cN/dtex未満であると、縫製中の糸と針の摩擦で該短繊維糸条の破断が起こり、糸切れの原因となるため好ましくない。また引張破断強度が7.5cN/dtexを超えると縫製品に大きな力がかかった時に短繊維糸条が破断せず、摩擦により移動して1箇所に固まりやすくピリングとして残留するため好ましくない。   Moreover, 1.0-7.5 cN / dtex is preferable and, as for the tensile breaking strength of the short fiber containing the said bamboo fiber, More preferably, it is 1.4-5.0 cN / dtex. If the tensile strength at break is less than 1.0 cN / dtex, the short fiber yarn breaks due to the friction between the thread and the needle during sewing, and this is not preferable. Further, if the tensile strength at break exceeds 7.5 cN / dtex, the short fiber yarn does not break when a large force is applied to the sewing product, and it is not preferable because it moves as a result of friction and easily settles in one place and remains as a pilling.

本発明における短繊維糸条において、竹繊維が含まれる割合は20〜100重量%であることが好ましく、さらに好ましくは50〜100重量%である。竹繊維の割合が20重量%未満であると、竹繊維の持つ吸放湿性や抗菌消臭効果が発揮されにくくなるため好ましくない。   In the short fiber yarn of the present invention, the proportion of bamboo fiber is preferably 20 to 100% by weight, more preferably 50 to 100% by weight. If the ratio of bamboo fiber is less than 20% by weight, the moisture absorption / release property and antibacterial deodorizing effect of bamboo fiber are hardly exhibited, which is not preferable.

また、本発明における短繊維糸条において、竹繊維と他の繊維とを混合する場合、混合する他の繊維は特に限定されるものではなく、合成繊維や天然繊維など任意に選択できるが、特に天然繊維や生分解性繊維であることが好ましい。   Further, in the short fiber yarn of the present invention, when bamboo fiber and other fibers are mixed, the other fibers to be mixed are not particularly limited and can be arbitrarily selected, such as synthetic fibers and natural fibers. Natural fibers and biodegradable fibers are preferable.

本発明におけるコアヤーンとは、芯部にフィラメントからなる長繊維糸条を、鞘部に短繊維糸条を有するものである。   The core yarn in the present invention has a long fiber yarn made of a filament in the core portion and a short fiber yarn in the sheath portion.

本発明の最大のポイントは、縫糸が、好ましくは竹繊維を含む短繊維糸条が鞘部を構成し、芯部にフィラメントからなる長繊維糸条を有するコアヤーンによって構成されることにある。芯部にフィラメントを有さない単なる短繊維糸条のみの紡績糸では、引張強力が不足し、縫製中の糸切れが多発する。   The most important point of the present invention is that the sewing thread is preferably constituted by a core yarn having a short fiber yarn containing bamboo fibers as a sheath portion and a long fiber yarn composed of a filament at the core portion. A spun yarn consisting only of short fiber yarns having no filament in the core portion has insufficient tensile strength, and yarn breakage frequently occurs during sewing.

本発明における縫糸を構成するコアヤーンは、従来公知のドラフトされた短繊維糸条とフィラメント糸条とをリング精紡、オープンエンド精紡、空気精紡などの方法でフィラメント糸条が芯部を構成し、短繊維束が鞘部を構成するように紡績されたものであり、あるいはフィラメント糸条の周りに短繊維の紡績糸を被覆するものであってもよく、これらの方法に特に限定されるものではないが、無撚りの芯糸に短繊維糸条が巻き付いた糸構造であることが好ましく、そのために芯糸が無撚り状態のままコアヤーンを製造できる空気精紡等の方法は芯糸に対する鞘糸の被覆性が最も優れた糸構造を形成するので好ましく、芯糸のフィラメント糸が露出することがなく、鞘糸と芯糸の色差や光沢差が極めて現れにくくなるのである。   In the core yarn constituting the sewing thread in the present invention, the filament yarn constitutes the core by a conventionally known drafted short fiber yarn and filament yarn by ring spinning, open-end spinning, air spinning, or the like. However, the short fiber bundle may be spun so as to constitute the sheath portion, or may be one in which the spun yarn of the short fiber is coated around the filament yarn, and is particularly limited to these methods. Although it is not a thing, it is preferable that it is a yarn structure where a short fiber yarn is wound around an untwisted core yarn, and for this reason, a method such as air spinning that can produce a core yarn while the core yarn is in an untwisted state is applied to the core yarn. This is preferable because it forms a yarn structure with the best covering of the sheath yarn, the filament yarn of the core yarn is not exposed, and the color difference and gloss difference between the sheath yarn and the core yarn are very difficult to appear.

本発明におけるコアヤーンの芯部を構成するフィラメントとしては、ポリエステル系繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、ポリフェニレンサルファイド系繊維、ポリテトラフロロエチレン系繊維、アラミド繊維などの合成繊維や、竹、パルプ、リンターパルプおよびコットンリンターを原料とする再生セルロース系繊維あるいは生分解性繊維など任意に選択できるが、本発明の効果からは竹繊維フィラメントが最も優れていることは言うまでもないが、生分解性を優先するならばポリ乳酸繊維が、コストや汎用性の面からはポリエステル系繊維を用いるのが最も好ましい。   As the filament constituting the core portion of the core yarn in the present invention, polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polypropylene fibers, polyphenylene sulfide fibers, polytetrafluoroethylene fibers, aramid fibers, synthetic fibers such as bamboo, pulp, Recycled cellulosic fibers or biodegradable fibers made from linter pulp and cotton linter can be selected arbitrarily, but it goes without saying that bamboo fiber filaments are the best from the effects of the present invention, but priority is given to biodegradability. In this case, it is most preferable to use a polyester fiber as the polylactic acid fiber from the viewpoint of cost and versatility.

特異な用途例ではポリアミド繊維を用いたり、ポリプロピレンテレフタレートなどを用いると、伸縮性を有する特性を付与したりすることができる。   In a specific application example, when a polyamide fiber is used or polypropylene terephthalate is used, a stretchable characteristic can be imparted.

また、本発明におけるフィラメントからなる長繊維糸条の引張破断強度はポリエステル繊維では6.0〜7.5cN/dtexの範囲であることが好ましく、さらに好ましくは6.5〜8.0cN/dtexである。引張破断強度が6.0cN/dtex未満であると、縫製時の糸切れや縫目の耐久性の低さの原因となるため好ましくない。また引張破断強度が8.5cN/dtexを超えると糸に大きな荷重がかかった時ステープルのみが破断して、フィラメントが露出して縫目の外観を損なうため好ましくない。   In the present invention, the tensile strength at break of the filament yarn composed of filaments is preferably in the range of 6.0 to 7.5 cN / dtex for the polyester fiber, and more preferably 6.5 to 8.0 cN / dtex. is there. If the tensile strength at break is less than 6.0 cN / dtex, it is not preferable because it causes thread breakage during sewing and low durability of the stitches. Also, if the tensile strength at break exceeds 8.5 cN / dtex, it is not preferable because only the staple breaks when a large load is applied to the yarn, and the filament is exposed to impair the appearance of the seam.

なお、ポリエステル繊維以外では引張破断強度は2.5〜4.5cN/dtexの極めて低い範囲になる。   Except for polyester fiber, the tensile strength at break is in a very low range of 2.5 to 4.5 cN / dtex.

また、本発明におけるフィラメントからなる長繊維糸条の沸水収縮率は1〜5%が好ましく、さらに好ましくは0.5〜3%である。収縮率が0.5%未満であると短繊維糸条との収縮差が大きくなり、染色後にフィラメントが露出して糸外観を損なうため好ましくない。また、収縮率が3%以上では染色における収縮差が小さくなり、縫糸の初期伸度が大きくなって縫製中の目飛びの原因となるため好ましくない。なお、沸水収縮率の数値はJIS L 1013 A法に基づいて測定したものである。   Moreover, 1-5% of the boiling water shrinkage | contraction rate of the long fiber yarn which consists of a filament in this invention is preferable, More preferably, it is 0.5-3%. If the shrinkage rate is less than 0.5%, the shrinkage difference from the short fiber yarn becomes large, and the filament is exposed after dyeing, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the shrinkage rate is 3% or more, the difference in shrinkage in dyeing becomes small and the initial elongation of the sewing thread becomes large, causing skipping during sewing, which is not preferable. In addition, the numerical value of the boiling water shrinkage is measured based on the JIS L 1013 A method.

また、本発明におけるフィラメントからなる長繊維糸条の繊度は20〜800dtexが好ましく、さらに好ましくは40〜500dtexである。繊度が20dtex未満であると縫糸の破断強力の絶対値が低く高速縫製に耐えられず糸切れするため好ましくない。繊度が800dtexを超えるとカバリングに必要なステープルが多くなり、毛羽やピリングによる縫目外観の低下を引き起こすため好ましくない。なお、一般衣料用には全く適さなく、通常は産業資材用に用いられる。   Further, the fineness of the long fiber yarn composed of the filament in the present invention is preferably 20 to 800 dtex, more preferably 40 to 500 dtex. If the fineness is less than 20 dtex, the absolute value of the breaking strength of the sewing thread is so low that it cannot withstand high-speed sewing and the thread breaks. When the fineness exceeds 800 dtex, the number of staples necessary for covering increases, and the appearance of the seam is deteriorated due to fluff and pilling, which is not preferable. It is not suitable for general clothing at all and is usually used for industrial materials.

また、本発明におけるフィラメントからなる長繊維糸条の構成本数は4〜600本が好ましくさらに好ましくは18〜330本である。構成本数が4本以下であるとフィラメントの曲げ剛性が高くなり、撚り戻りが起こりステープル群の連続性を破断するため好ましくない。また、フィラメント数が600本を超えると構成する単糸が切れ易くなり、毛羽となって縫目外観を害するため好ましくない。   In addition, the number of long fiber yarns composed of filaments in the present invention is preferably 4 to 600, more preferably 18 to 330. When the number of constituents is 4 or less, the bending rigidity of the filament is increased, twisting occurs, and the continuity of the staple group is broken. On the other hand, if the number of filaments exceeds 600, the single yarn that is formed is likely to be broken, which becomes fuzzy and harms the appearance of the seam.

また、本発明におけるコアヤーン縫糸はコアヤーンが複数本合わされ、撚りが施されたものであるが、該コアヤーンの本数は2〜5本が好ましく、さらに好ましくは2〜3本である。コアヤーンが2本未満、つまり単糸の状態であると、糸の均一性が悪く縫製中の糸切れが多くなり、また毛羽が多く縫製品の品位を害するため好ましくない。またコアヤーンが5本を超えると、紡績糸同士の収束性が悪くなって空隙が生じ、縫製中針が引っ掛かって糸切れの原因となるため好ましくない。   Further, the core yarn sewing thread in the present invention is one in which a plurality of core yarns are combined and twisted, and the number of core yarns is preferably 2 to 5, more preferably 2 to 3. When the number of core yarns is less than two, that is, in a single yarn state, the uniformity of the yarn is poor, thread breakage during sewing increases, and there are many fluffs that impair the quality of the sewing product. On the other hand, when the number of core yarns exceeds five, the convergence between the spun yarns is deteriorated, gaps are formed, and the sewing needle is caught to cause thread breakage, which is not preferable.

また、本発明において複数本のコアヤーンを合撚する時の撚り係数は綿番手で3.3〜4.2が好ましく、さらに好ましくは3.5〜3.9である。撚り係数が3.3未満であると繊維同士の結束が不足し縫製中針穴との摩擦で糸が切れるため好ましくない。撚り係数が4.2を超えるとトルクが強すぎて縫製中スナールが発生して糸切れや目飛びの原因となるため好ましくない。撚り係数は下記式によって算出する。   Further, in the present invention, the twisting coefficient when a plurality of core yarns are twisted is preferably 3.3 to 4.2, more preferably 3.5 to 3.9 in terms of cotton count. When the twisting coefficient is less than 3.3, it is not preferable because the binding between the fibers is insufficient and the thread breaks due to friction with the needle hole during sewing. If the twisting coefficient exceeds 4.2, the torque is too strong, and a snare is generated during sewing, which causes thread breakage or skipping. The twist coefficient is calculated by the following formula.

k=T/N1/2
k:撚り係数
T:合撚時の撚り数[t/inch]
N:合撚前のコアヤーンの綿番手
また、本発明においてコアヤーンを合撚する方法は、特に限定されるものではなく、公知の方法から任意に選択できる。
k = T / N 1/2
k: Twisting coefficient T: Number of twists during twisting [t / inch]
N: Cotton count of core yarn before twisting The method of twisting the core yarn in the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be arbitrarily selected from known methods.

また、本発明における縫糸の引張破断強度は2.0〜6.0cN/dtexであることが好ましく、さらに好ましくは2.5〜4.5cN/dtexである。引張破断強度が2.0cN/dtex未満であると高速縫製や厚地縫製時に糸切れが多発し作業効率を著しく低下させるため好ましくない。引張破断強度が6.0cN/dtexを超えると縫製品に大きな力がかかったときに糸が切れずに生地を痛め、結果的に商品としての価値を損なうために、通常の衣料用では好ましくないが、ジーンズなどの高強力を必要とする用途ではこの限りではない。   Further, the tensile breaking strength of the sewing thread in the present invention is preferably 2.0 to 6.0 cN / dtex, more preferably 2.5 to 4.5 cN / dtex. If the tensile strength at break is less than 2.0 cN / dtex, thread breakage occurs frequently at the time of high-speed sewing or heavy-weight sewing, which is not preferable. If the tensile strength at break exceeds 6.0 cN / dtex, the yarn will not break when a large force is applied to the sewn product, and the fabric will be damaged. As a result, the value of the product will be impaired. However, this is not the case in applications that require high strength such as jeans.

また、本発明における縫製品とは、肌着やドレスシャツなどの衣料用途やインテリア、テントなどの資材用途など特に限定されるものではないが、竹繊維を使用した製品であっても色合わせの手間が省け、また竹繊維が持つ吸放湿性やマイナスイオン発生効果を損なうことがないのでより好ましい。   In addition, the sewing product in the present invention is not particularly limited to apparel use such as underwear and dress shirts, and material use such as interior and tent. This is more preferable because it does not impair the moisture absorption and release properties and negative ion generation effect of bamboo fibers.

以下に本発明の実施例、および比較例により本発明をさらに具体的に説明する。なお、実施例および比較例中の測定方法、評価方法は以下の方法を用いた。
(1)見かけ繊度[dtex]
JIS L1015に準拠して1水準につき20回測定しその平均値を算出した。
(2)引張破断強力[cN]、引張破断強度[cN/dtex]
計測器工業(株)製STATIMAT MEによりつかみ長200mm、引張速度200mm/min、1水準につき20回の測定を行い引張破断強力の平均値を求め、見かけ繊度から引張破断強度を算出した。
(3)糸切れ数[回]
綿ブロード10枚重ねの生地を、JUKI(株)製1本針本縫いミシンDDL−5550Nにて上糸張力1cN/dtex、速度3500spmで10m縫製するときに発生した糸切れの回数から評価した。
(4)吸放湿性
繊度1.1dtex、繊維長51mmの竹繊維を使用した50番手の紡績糸緯経使いからなる緯糸密度135本/インチ緯糸密度72本/インチ、組織:平織り、目付120g/m2の織物を縦30cm×横20cmに裁断し、実施例および比較例で得られた縫糸を使い1cm間隔で縦方向に30cm×15本縫製した。この生地を絶乾状態から20℃×65%RH雰囲気下に24時間放置した時の吸湿率と、絶乾状態から30℃×90%RH雰囲気下に24時間放置した時の吸湿率をJIS L1096に準拠して測定し、両者の差より算出した。吸湿性は衣料であれば衣服内の群れをどれだけ吸収するかに相当し、高いほど快適である。ちなみに、織物のみで測定した時の吸湿性は3.8であった。
(5)縫目の色感
上記吸湿性の測定に用いたものと同じ織物を実施例および比較例で得られる縫糸を使用して1cm間隔で縫目ピッチ2mm、1m×10本縫製し、染色、精練した後の縫製部分と生地の色目差を目視評価し、下記のように判定した。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples of the present invention and comparative examples. The following methods were used as measurement methods and evaluation methods in the examples and comparative examples.
(1) Apparent fineness [dtex]
Based on JIS L1015, it measured 20 times per level and calculated the average value.
(2) Tensile breaking strength [cN], tensile breaking strength [cN / dtex]
An average value of tensile strength at break was obtained by measuring 20 times per grabbing length with 200 mm / min, tensile speed 200 mm / min, using STATIMATE ME manufactured by Keiki Kogyo Co., Ltd., and the tensile strength at break was calculated from the apparent fineness.
(3) Number of thread breaks [times]
An evaluation was made based on the number of thread breaks that occurred when a 10-ply cotton broad fabric was sewed 10 m at a needle thread tension of 1 cN / dtex and a speed of 3500 spm using a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine DDL-5550N manufactured by JUKI Corporation.
(4) Moisture absorption / release properties Weft density of 135 yarns / inch weft density of 72 yarns / inch consisting of 50th spun warp using bamboo fiber with a fineness of 1.1 dtex and fiber length of 51 mm, organization: plain weave, basis weight 120 g / The m 2 woven fabric was cut into a length of 30 cm × width of 20 cm, and 30 cm × 15 stitches were sewn in the lengthwise direction at intervals of 1 cm using the sewing threads obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples. JIS L1096 shows the moisture absorption rate when the dough is left in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH for 24 hours from the absolutely dry state, and the moisture absorption rate when the fabric is left in an atmosphere of 30 ° C. and 90% RH for 24 hours. And calculated from the difference between the two. Hygroscopicity is equivalent to how much flocks are absorbed in clothing, the higher the comfort. Incidentally, the hygroscopicity when measured with only the fabric was 3.8.
(5) Color sense of stitches The same fabric as that used in the measurement of the hygroscopicity was sewn at a 1 cm interval with a stitch pitch of 2 mm and 1 m × 10 stitches using the sewing threads obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, and dyeing. The color difference between the sewn portion and the fabric after scouring was visually evaluated and determined as follows.

○:縫目が生地と同様の染まり具合で目立たない
△:縫目の染まり具合が生地とやや異なり縫目が目立つ
×:縫目が離れて見てもわかるほどに生地と異なる染まり具合である
(6)縫目のパッカリング
上記吸湿性の測定に用いたものと同じ織物に、間隔が20cmのマークをつけ、実施例および比較例で得られる縫糸を使用して縫目ピッチ2mmでマークの中央を1本縫製し、染色、精練して60℃×50分の洗濯を10回繰り返した後の縫目の収縮率(パッカリングP)を下記式より算出した。
○: The stitches are inconspicuous with the same dyeing condition as the fabric. △: The stitching conditions are slightly different from the fabric and the stitches are conspicuous. ×: The dyeing condition is so different from the fabric that the stitches can be seen apart. (6) Stitch puckering The same fabric used for the above hygroscopic measurement is marked with a 20 cm gap, and the stitches obtained in the examples and comparative examples are used at a stitch pitch of 2 mm. One center was sewn, dyed and refined, and the shrinkage (puckering P) of the stitches after 10 times of washing at 60 ° C. for 50 minutes was calculated from the following formula.

P={20−L)/20}×100
P:パッカリング[%]
L:洗濯後のマークの間隔[cm]
(7)衣料快適性
上記吸湿性の評価に用いたものと同様の竹繊維紡績糸を使用し、ゲージ数:24、組織:ジャージ、目付:78g/m2のニットを製造し、実施例および比較例で得られる縫糸を使用して肌着を縫製した。この肌着を5人のモニターに1週間着用してもらい、快適性を5段階評価(5が最良)し、平均値を算出した。
P = {20−L) / 20} × 100
P: Puckering [%]
L: Mark interval after washing [cm]
(7) Clothing comfort Using a bamboo fiber spun yarn similar to that used for the evaluation of the hygroscopicity, a knit having a gauge number of 24, a structure: a jersey, and a basis weight of 78 g / m 2 was manufactured. The underwear was sewed using the sewing thread obtained in the comparative example. This underwear was worn on a monitor of five people for one week, and the comfort was evaluated in five levels (5 is the best), and the average value was calculated.

[実施例1]
繊度1.6dtex、繊維長38mm、引張破断強度1.8cN/dtexの竹繊維ステープルと、繊度1.3dtex、繊維長38mm、引張破断強度6.3cN/dtexのポリエステルステープルを重量比で20:80の割合で混合し、(株)豊田自動織機製RX240NEW−ESTにて繊度56dtex、構成本数18本、引張破断強度6.5cN/dtex、沸水収縮率2.0%のポリエステルフィラメントを芯部に挿入し、撚り係数3.9の下撚りをかけた40番手のコアヤーンを製造した。該糸条を2本引き揃えて村田機械(株)製ダブルツイスターにて撚り係数3.6で合撚後、(株)芦田製作所製高圧スチームセッターを使用し105℃×20分で収縮セットし、チーズに巻き返した後分散染料にて130℃×40分で染色、高松油脂(株)製仕上げ油剤GS−100SHをローラータッチ形式で5%o.w.f付与し縫糸とした。
[Example 1]
Bamboo fiber staple having a fineness of 1.6 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 1.8 cN / dtex, and a polyester staple having a fineness of 1.3 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 6.3 cN / dtex in a weight ratio of 20:80. And a polyester filament having a fineness of 56 dtex, a configuration of 18 pieces, a tensile breaking strength of 6.5 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 2.0% is inserted into the core using RX240 NEW-EST manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation. Thus, a 40th core yarn with a twist of 3.9 was manufactured. After drawing the two yarns together and twisting with a double twister made by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. with a twist coefficient of 3.6, using a high-pressure steam setter made by Iwata Manufacturing Co., Ltd., shrink and set at 105 ° C for 20 minutes. After being rolled up on cheese, dyed with disperse dye at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes, and finished with a finishing oil agent GS-100SH manufactured by Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd. 5% o. w. f was given as a sewing thread.

[実施例2]
繊度1.7dtex、繊維長35mm、引張破断強度2.0cN/dtexの竹繊維ステープルを100%使用し(株)豊田自動織機製RX240NEW−ESTにて繊度56dtex、構成本数18本、引張破断強度6.5cN/dtex、沸水収縮率2.0%のポリエステルフィラメントを芯部に挿入し、撚り係数3.9の下撚りをかけた40番手のコアヤーンを製造した以降は実施例1と同様の方法で縫糸を得た。
[Example 2]
100% bamboo fiber staple having a fineness of 1.7 dtex, a fiber length of 35 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 2.0 cN / dtex was used. RX240NEW-EST manufactured by Toyoda Automatic Loom Co., Ltd., fineness of 56 dtex, number of components, 18 tensile breaking strength 6 After the production of a 40th core yarn having a twist coefficient of 3.9 and inserting a polyester filament of .5 cN / dtex and a boiling water shrinkage of 2.0% into the core, the same method as in Example 1 was followed. A sewing thread was obtained.

[実施例3]
芯糸に繊度78dtex、構成本数24本、引張破断強度6.0cN/dtex、沸水収縮率3.0%の竹繊維フィラメントを使用したこと以外は実施例2と同様の方法で縫糸を得た。
[Example 3]
A sewing thread was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that bamboo fiber filaments having a fineness of 78 dtex, a configuration number of 24, a tensile breaking strength of 6.0 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 3.0% were used as the core yarn.

[実施例4]
実施例1と同様の竹繊維ステープルとポリエステルステープルを重量比で50:50の割合で混合し、村田機械(株)製Murata Vortex SpinnerNo.810にて繊度78dtex、構成本数24本、引張破断強度7.7cN/dtex、沸水収縮率0.8%のポリエステルフィラメントを芯部に挿入し、芯糸が無撚り状態である40番手のコアヤーンを製造した以降は実施例1と同様の方法で縫糸を得た。
[Example 4]
The same bamboo fiber staple and polyester staple as in Example 1 were mixed at a weight ratio of 50:50, and Murata Vortex Spinner No. manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. was mixed. At 810, a polyester filament having a fineness of 78 dtex, a configuration number of 24, a tensile breaking strength of 7.7 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 0.8% is inserted into the core, and the 40th core yarn in which the core yarn is untwisted After production, a sewing thread was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

[比較例1]
実施例1と同様の竹繊維と、繊度1.5dtex、繊維長35mm、引張破断強度1.2cN/dtexのパルプを原料としたレーヨンステープルを重量比で10:90の割合で混合し、(株)豊田自動織機製RX240NEW−ESTにて撚り係数3.9の下撚りをかけた40番手のステープル糸条を製造した以降は実施例1と同様の製造方法で縫糸を得た。
[Comparative Example 1]
A bamboo fiber similar to Example 1 was mixed with rayon staples made from pulp having a fineness of 1.5 dtex, a fiber length of 35 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 1.2 cN / dtex at a weight ratio of 10:90. ) After the 40th staple yarn with a twisting factor of 3.9 was produced by RX240 NEW-EST manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation, a sewing thread was obtained by the same production method as in Example 1.

[比較例2]
繊度1.3dtex、繊維長38mm、引張破断強度6.3cN/dtexのポリエステルステープルを100%用いて、村田機械(株)製Murata Vortex SpinnerNo.810にて繊度78dtex、構成本数24本、引張破断強度7.7cN/dtex、沸水収縮率0.8%のポリエステルフィラメントを芯部に挿入し、無撚り状態の40番手のコアヤーンを製造した以降は実施例1と同様の方法で縫糸を得た。
以上の実施例および比較例によって得られる縫糸の測定結果、評価結果を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 2]
100% polyester staple having a fineness of 1.3 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 6.3 cN / dtex was used, and Murata Vortex Spinner No. manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. was used. After manufacturing a 40th core yarn in a non-twisted state at 810, a polyester filament having a fineness of 78 dtex, a configuration number of 24, a tensile breaking strength of 7.7 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 0.8% was inserted into the core. A sewing thread was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
Table 1 shows the measurement results and evaluation results of the sewing threads obtained in the above examples and comparative examples.

Figure 2006132008
Figure 2006132008

表1に示す通り、実施例1によって得られたコアヤーン縫糸は、竹繊維からなる布帛の吸放湿性を低下させることがなく、さらに芯糸のフィラメントが竹繊維の強力の低さをカバーし、高速縫製に対する性能も向上した。また竹繊維からなる縫製品を染色しても縫目と布帛の染色差が発生しなかった。   As shown in Table 1, the core yarn sewing thread obtained in Example 1 does not reduce the moisture absorption and desorption of the fabric made of bamboo fiber, and the filament of the core yarn covers the low strength of the bamboo fiber. The performance for high-speed sewing was also improved. Further, even when a sewing product made of bamboo fiber was dyed, no difference in dyeing between the stitches and the fabric occurred.

また、実施例2によって得られるコアヤーン縫糸は、竹繊維からなる布帛の吸放湿性を向上させ、さらに芯糸のフィラメントが竹繊維の強力の低さをカバーし、高速縫製に対する性能も向上した。また、竹繊維からなる縫製品を染色しても縫目と布帛の染色差が発生しなかった。   Further, the core yarn sewing thread obtained in Example 2 improved the moisture absorption / release characteristics of the fabric made of bamboo fibers, and the filaments of the core yarn covered the low strength of the bamboo fibers, thereby improving the performance for high-speed sewing. Further, even when a sewing product made of bamboo fiber was dyed, no difference in dyeing between the seam and the fabric occurred.

また、実施例3によって得られる縫糸は、全体が竹繊維で構成されており、布帛の吸放湿性を大きく向上させた。また、洗濯後のパッカリングも極めて小さく、かつ肌着の着用試験では縫目と肌の接触による不快感が全くないという評価であった。   Further, the sewing thread obtained in Example 3 was entirely composed of bamboo fiber, and greatly improved the moisture absorption and desorption of the fabric. Further, the puckering after washing was extremely small, and in the underwear wearing test, there was no discomfort due to contact between the seam and the skin.

また、実施例4によって得られる縫糸は竹繊維からなる布帛の吸放湿性を向上させ、さらに芯糸のフィラメントが竹繊維の強力向上を図り、高速縫製に対する性能も向上した。また、コアヤーンが無撚りであるため芯糸が露出せず、縫目の色目が生地に最も近かった。また肌着としても短繊維糸条のソフトな肌触りが縫糸によって損なわれていないと高い評価であった。   In addition, the sewing thread obtained in Example 4 improved the moisture absorption and release properties of the fabric made of bamboo fiber, and the filament of the core yarn improved the strength of the bamboo fiber, and also improved the performance for high-speed sewing. Moreover, since the core yarn was untwisted, the core yarn was not exposed, and the seam color was closest to the fabric. Also, as an underwear, it was highly evaluated that the soft touch of the short fiber yarn was not damaged by the sewing thread.

比較例1によって得られる縫糸は、強度が低く、高速縫製中に糸切れが多発した。また竹繊維からなる布帛の吸放湿性を低下させ、肌着としての快適性は低かった。   The sewing thread obtained in Comparative Example 1 had low strength, and thread breakage occurred frequently during high-speed sewing. Moreover, the moisture absorption / release property of the fabric which consists of bamboo fiber was reduced, and the comfort as underwear was low.

比較例2によって得られる縫糸は強度、可縫性は問題ないものの竹繊維の持つ吸放湿性を著しく低下させ、また竹繊維とは異なる表面感を持つため、竹繊維の布帛を縫製したところ染め上がりで縫目が極端に目立ち、また洗濯後のパッカリングが著しく、外観の品位を重視する部分には不適であった。また肌着としても縫目と肌が接触してかなり着心地が悪いという評価であった。   Although the sewing thread obtained in Comparative Example 2 has no problem in strength and sewability, the moisture absorption and release properties of bamboo fibers are remarkably reduced, and since it has a different surface feeling from bamboo fibers, the fabric is dyed when the bamboo fiber fabric is sewn. The seam was extremely conspicuous, and puckering after washing was remarkable, which was unsuitable for parts where the appearance quality was important. In addition, as the underwear, the seam and the skin contacted each other, and the evaluation was that the comfort was considerably poor.

Claims (3)

長繊維糸条を芯部に、短繊維糸条を鞘部に配置したコアヤーンが複数本合わされ撚りが施された縫糸において、該コアヤーンに竹繊維が含まれていることを特徴とするコアヤーン縫糸。 A core yarn sewing thread characterized in that a plurality of core yarns each having a long fiber yarn in a core portion and a short fiber yarn in a sheath portion are combined and twisted, and the core yarn contains bamboo fibers. 前記竹繊維が短繊維糸条に含まれていることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のコアヤーン縫糸。 The core yarn sewing thread according to claim 1, wherein the bamboo fiber is contained in a short fiber yarn. 請求項1または2のいずれかに記載のコアヤーン縫糸によって縫製されていることを特徴とする縫製品。 A sewn product that is sewn with the core yarn sewing thread according to claim 1.
JP2004318945A 2004-11-02 2004-11-02 Core yarn-sewing thread Pending JP2006132008A (en)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2007308823A (en) * 2006-05-17 2007-11-29 Unitika Textiles Ltd Two-layer structure spun yarn and woven or knitted fabric
EP3399079A1 (en) * 2017-05-03 2018-11-07 Grupo Antolin-Ingenieria, S.A. Textile yarn for vehicle fabrics and vehicle fabric with textile yarn
CN109989142A (en) * 2019-03-25 2019-07-09 合肥岸鲁意科技有限公司 A kind of production method of insulation antibiosis mixed yarn
CN115341315A (en) * 2022-09-19 2022-11-15 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 Composite fiber core-spun yarn and preparation method thereof

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2007308823A (en) * 2006-05-17 2007-11-29 Unitika Textiles Ltd Two-layer structure spun yarn and woven or knitted fabric
EP3399079A1 (en) * 2017-05-03 2018-11-07 Grupo Antolin-Ingenieria, S.A. Textile yarn for vehicle fabrics and vehicle fabric with textile yarn
CN109989142A (en) * 2019-03-25 2019-07-09 合肥岸鲁意科技有限公司 A kind of production method of insulation antibiosis mixed yarn
CN115341315A (en) * 2022-09-19 2022-11-15 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 Composite fiber core-spun yarn and preparation method thereof
CN115341315B (en) * 2022-09-19 2023-09-05 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 Composite fiber core-spun yarn and preparation method thereof

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