JP2006132008A - Core yarn-sewing thread - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a core yarn-sewing thread improved with its strength and sewing characteristics without damaging the characteristics of a bamboo fiber, and a sewn product. <P>SOLUTION: This sewing thread obtained by doubling and twisting in a plurality of core yarns obtained by arranging a long fiber thread at a core part and a short fiber threads at a sheath part is characterized by containing the bamboo fiber in the core yarn. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a core yarn sewing thread containing bamboo fibers, and more particularly to a core yarn sewing thread and a sewing product that are excellent in sewability and have high moisture absorption / release characteristics and vivid seam coloring.

  In recent years, fiber products made of fiber made from bamboo have attracted attention as a new material made from plants. This fiber has high moisture absorption and release and negative ion generation effect that is considered good for the human body, and is used in a wide range of fields such as clothing and interior.

  Conventionally, sewing threads for sewing these products include sewing threads made of synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon.

  However, since these sewing threads have a color unique to synthetic fibers, there is a drawback that color matching is difficult when sewing a fabric made of bamboo fibers. Moreover, there exists a fault that the moisture absorption / release property and generation | occurrence | production of a negative ion which are the characteristics of the above bamboo fibers will be inhibited.

  In order to solve the above problem, a method has been proposed in which a fiber bundle containing cellulose rayon fiber made from bamboo is subjected to medium twisting or strong twisting to obtain a yarn having tension and waist (for example, see Patent Document 1). .

  However, the thread of this proposal has a low tensile strength, and when used as a sewing thread, the thread breakage during sewing and the durability of the stitches after sewing are low, and the torque balance is extremely poor, and snare does not occur during sewing. It is easy to cause skipping and thread breakage.

  In addition, the bamboo material is appropriately softened by moisture, steam, chemical treatment, etc., and cotton-like bamboo fibers are extracted from the bamboo material structure, and the short fibers are removed from the cotton-like bamboo fibers. There has been proposed a method for obtaining a well-ventilated yarn by forming the bamboo long fiber into a spun yarn such as a worsted yarn or a spun yarn by spinning the bamboo long fiber into a raw yarn, and processing the spun yarn such as a worsted yarn or a spun yarn (for example, a patent Reference 2).

  However, the yarn of this proposal has a low tensile strength, and when used as a sewing thread, the thread breakage during sewing and the durability of the stitches after sewing are low, the torque balance is extremely poor, and snare occurs during sewing. It is easy to cause skipping and thread breakage.

In other words, it is impossible to use bamboo fiber yarns manufactured as fiber yarns for general clothing as sewing yarns as they are because of low strength and poor sewing.
Japanese Patent No. 3448526 Utility Model Registration No. 3080297

  An object of the present invention is to solve the above-described problems, and at least a staple short fiber yarn or a filament long fiber yarn containing bamboo fibers is used, and the long fiber yarn of the core portion is short fiber. It is an object of the present invention to provide a core yarn sewing thread and a sewn product which are arranged so as to be covered with yarns to form a core yarn, thereby improving the strength and sewing properties without impairing the characteristics of bamboo fibers.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following configuration. That is,
(1) In a sewing thread in which a plurality of core yarns each having a long fiber yarn arranged in a core portion and a short fiber yarn arranged in a sheath portion are combined and twisted, bamboo fiber is contained in the core yarn. Core yarn sewing thread.

  (2) The core yarn sewing thread according to (1), wherein the bamboo fiber is contained in a short fiber yarn.

  (3) A sewn product that is sewn with the core yarn sewing thread according to any one of (1) and (2).

  Since the core yarn sewing thread according to the present invention contains bamboo fiber, color matching with a fabric made of the fiber is easy. The natural color unique to natural fibers is not a uniform color like synthetic fibers, but a color due to a collection of multi-colored and delicate shades, so the familiarity with the fabric made of bamboo fiber yarn is extremely natural It becomes a feeling and becomes a high-quality sewing product.

  Moreover, the core yarn sewing thread manufactured using the yarn containing bamboo fibers can provide a comfortable garment without impairing the moisture absorption and release properties of the fabric.

  Since the core yarn thread has a core yarn structure, the long filament yarn of the filament serving as the core yarn assists the tensile strength of the short fiber yarn of the sheath yarn, prevents yarn breakage during sewing, and the stitches after sewing Improves durability.

  The core yarn sewing thread of the present invention is excellent in moisture absorption and desorption, and is optimal for sewing fabrics containing bamboo fibers. Since the moisture absorption / release property of the fabric containing the bamboo fiber and the moisture absorption / release property of the core yarn sewing yarn containing the bamboo fiber are equal, the familiarity is improved. In particular, when sweating, moisture absorption, washing, etc., iron pressing, and dry cleaning, puckering, subtle color difference, contamination difference, and gloss difference are less likely to occur between the fabric and the sewing thread.

  The sewn product using the core yarn sewing thread of the present invention has a mild luster similar to that of the fabric when the sewn product is made of a material containing bamboo fibers when dyed in the same color. In addition, since it has high moisture absorption and desorption properties, when used in clothing, it is possible to obtain a sewn product that is extremely comfortable and has no uncomfortable feeling.

  First, the bamboo fiber used in the present invention is produced in the same manner as a conventionally known regenerated cellulosic fiber. For example, if it is a viscose method, pulp made from bamboo is reacted with alkali and carbon disulfide to produce alkali xanthate. It can be produced by dissolving in caustic soda, spinning, coagulating and regenerating.

  The short fiber used in the present invention is preferably a fiber having a fiber length in the range of 10 to 500 mm, and more preferably 30 to 200 mm. If the fiber length is less than 10 mm, the fibers are likely to come off due to friction between the needle and the thread during sewing, and this is not preferable because the needle hole is clogged or the thread is broken. On the other hand, if the fiber length exceeds 500 mm, long fluff increases and the appearance of the seam is impaired.

  Further, the short fiber yarn used in the present invention refers to a bundle in which a plurality of the short fibers are aligned in the length direction.

  Moreover, it is preferable to use the bamboo fiber used for this invention for the short fiber yarn of a sheath side. In this case, the single fiber fineness of the bamboo fiber of the short fiber yarn containing the bamboo fiber is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 3.0 dtex, more preferably in the range of 0.8 to 1.8 dtex. If the fineness is less than 0.2 dtex, the yarn does not have tension and waist, and it is difficult to form a loop of the upper thread at the time of sewing. On the other hand, if the fineness exceeds 3.0 dtex, the bending rigidity becomes high, the phenomenon of untwisting in the twisted yarn in the sewing thread manufacturing process is likely to occur, and the twisted yarn is decomposed by friction with the needle, which is not preferable.

  Moreover, 1.0-7.5 cN / dtex is preferable and, as for the tensile breaking strength of the short fiber containing the said bamboo fiber, More preferably, it is 1.4-5.0 cN / dtex. If the tensile strength at break is less than 1.0 cN / dtex, the short fiber yarn breaks due to the friction between the thread and the needle during sewing, and this is not preferable. Further, if the tensile strength at break exceeds 7.5 cN / dtex, the short fiber yarn does not break when a large force is applied to the sewing product, and it is not preferable because it moves as a result of friction and easily settles in one place and remains as a pilling.

  In the short fiber yarn of the present invention, the proportion of bamboo fiber is preferably 20 to 100% by weight, more preferably 50 to 100% by weight. If the ratio of bamboo fiber is less than 20% by weight, the moisture absorption / release property and antibacterial deodorizing effect of bamboo fiber are hardly exhibited, which is not preferable.

  Further, in the short fiber yarn of the present invention, when bamboo fiber and other fibers are mixed, the other fibers to be mixed are not particularly limited and can be arbitrarily selected, such as synthetic fibers and natural fibers. Natural fibers and biodegradable fibers are preferable.

  The core yarn in the present invention has a long fiber yarn made of a filament in the core portion and a short fiber yarn in the sheath portion.

  The most important point of the present invention is that the sewing thread is preferably constituted by a core yarn having a short fiber yarn containing bamboo fibers as a sheath portion and a long fiber yarn composed of a filament at the core portion. A spun yarn consisting only of short fiber yarns having no filament in the core portion has insufficient tensile strength, and yarn breakage frequently occurs during sewing.

  In the core yarn constituting the sewing thread in the present invention, the filament yarn constitutes the core by a conventionally known drafted short fiber yarn and filament yarn by ring spinning, open-end spinning, air spinning, or the like. However, the short fiber bundle may be spun so as to constitute the sheath portion, or may be one in which the spun yarn of the short fiber is coated around the filament yarn, and is particularly limited to these methods. Although it is not a thing, it is preferable that it is a yarn structure where a short fiber yarn is wound around an untwisted core yarn, and for this reason, a method such as air spinning that can produce a core yarn while the core yarn is in an untwisted state is applied to the core yarn. This is preferable because it forms a yarn structure with the best covering of the sheath yarn, the filament yarn of the core yarn is not exposed, and the color difference and gloss difference between the sheath yarn and the core yarn are very difficult to appear.

  As the filament constituting the core portion of the core yarn in the present invention, polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polypropylene fibers, polyphenylene sulfide fibers, polytetrafluoroethylene fibers, aramid fibers, synthetic fibers such as bamboo, pulp, Recycled cellulosic fibers or biodegradable fibers made from linter pulp and cotton linter can be selected arbitrarily, but it goes without saying that bamboo fiber filaments are the best from the effects of the present invention, but priority is given to biodegradability. In this case, it is most preferable to use a polyester fiber as the polylactic acid fiber from the viewpoint of cost and versatility.

  In a specific application example, when a polyamide fiber is used or polypropylene terephthalate is used, a stretchable characteristic can be imparted.

  In the present invention, the tensile strength at break of the filament yarn composed of filaments is preferably in the range of 6.0 to 7.5 cN / dtex for the polyester fiber, and more preferably 6.5 to 8.0 cN / dtex. is there. If the tensile strength at break is less than 6.0 cN / dtex, it is not preferable because it causes thread breakage during sewing and low durability of the stitches. Also, if the tensile strength at break exceeds 8.5 cN / dtex, it is not preferable because only the staple breaks when a large load is applied to the yarn, and the filament is exposed to impair the appearance of the seam.

  Except for polyester fiber, the tensile strength at break is in a very low range of 2.5 to 4.5 cN / dtex.

  Moreover, 1-5% of the boiling water shrinkage | contraction rate of the long fiber yarn which consists of a filament in this invention is preferable, More preferably, it is 0.5-3%. If the shrinkage rate is less than 0.5%, the shrinkage difference from the short fiber yarn becomes large, and the filament is exposed after dyeing, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the shrinkage rate is 3% or more, the difference in shrinkage in dyeing becomes small and the initial elongation of the sewing thread becomes large, causing skipping during sewing, which is not preferable. In addition, the numerical value of the boiling water shrinkage is measured based on the JIS L 1013 A method.

  Further, the fineness of the long fiber yarn composed of the filament in the present invention is preferably 20 to 800 dtex, more preferably 40 to 500 dtex. If the fineness is less than 20 dtex, the absolute value of the breaking strength of the sewing thread is so low that it cannot withstand high-speed sewing and the thread breaks. When the fineness exceeds 800 dtex, the number of staples necessary for covering increases, and the appearance of the seam is deteriorated due to fluff and pilling, which is not preferable. It is not suitable for general clothing at all and is usually used for industrial materials.

  In addition, the number of long fiber yarns composed of filaments in the present invention is preferably 4 to 600, more preferably 18 to 330. When the number of constituents is 4 or less, the bending rigidity of the filament is increased, twisting occurs, and the continuity of the staple group is broken. On the other hand, if the number of filaments exceeds 600, the single yarn that is formed is likely to be broken, which becomes fuzzy and harms the appearance of the seam.

  Further, the core yarn sewing thread in the present invention is one in which a plurality of core yarns are combined and twisted, and the number of core yarns is preferably 2 to 5, more preferably 2 to 3. When the number of core yarns is less than two, that is, in a single yarn state, the uniformity of the yarn is poor, thread breakage during sewing increases, and there are many fluffs that impair the quality of the sewing product. On the other hand, when the number of core yarns exceeds five, the convergence between the spun yarns is deteriorated, gaps are formed, and the sewing needle is caught to cause thread breakage, which is not preferable.

  Further, in the present invention, the twisting coefficient when a plurality of core yarns are twisted is preferably 3.3 to 4.2, more preferably 3.5 to 3.9 in terms of cotton count. When the twisting coefficient is less than 3.3, it is not preferable because the binding between the fibers is insufficient and the thread breaks due to friction with the needle hole during sewing. If the twisting coefficient exceeds 4.2, the torque is too strong, and a snare is generated during sewing, which causes thread breakage or skipping. The twist coefficient is calculated by the following formula.

k = T / N ^1/2
k: Twisting coefficient T: Number of twists during twisting [t / inch]
N: Cotton count of core yarn before twisting The method of twisting the core yarn in the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be arbitrarily selected from known methods.

  Further, the tensile breaking strength of the sewing thread in the present invention is preferably 2.0 to 6.0 cN / dtex, more preferably 2.5 to 4.5 cN / dtex. If the tensile strength at break is less than 2.0 cN / dtex, thread breakage occurs frequently at the time of high-speed sewing or heavy-weight sewing, which is not preferable. If the tensile strength at break exceeds 6.0 cN / dtex, the yarn will not break when a large force is applied to the sewn product, and the fabric will be damaged. As a result, the value of the product will be impaired. However, this is not the case in applications that require high strength such as jeans.

  In addition, the sewing product in the present invention is not particularly limited to apparel use such as underwear and dress shirts, and material use such as interior and tent. This is more preferable because it does not impair the moisture absorption and release properties and negative ion generation effect of bamboo fibers.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples of the present invention and comparative examples. The following methods were used as measurement methods and evaluation methods in the examples and comparative examples.
(1) Apparent fineness [dtex]
Based on JIS L1015, it measured 20 times per level and calculated the average value.
(2) Tensile breaking strength [cN], tensile breaking strength [cN / dtex]
An average value of tensile strength at break was obtained by measuring 20 times per grabbing length with 200 mm / min, tensile speed 200 mm / min, using STATIMATE ME manufactured by Keiki Kogyo Co., Ltd., and the tensile strength at break was calculated from the apparent fineness.
(3) Number of thread breaks [times]
An evaluation was made based on the number of thread breaks that occurred when a 10-ply cotton broad fabric was sewed 10 m at a needle thread tension of 1 cN / dtex and a speed of 3500 spm using a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine DDL-5550N manufactured by JUKI Corporation.
(4) Moisture absorption / release properties Weft density of 135 yarns / inch weft density of 72 yarns / inch consisting of 50th spun warp using bamboo fiber with a fineness of 1.1 dtex and fiber length of 51 mm, organization: plain weave, basis weight 120 g / The m ² woven fabric was cut into a length of 30 cm × width of 20 cm, and 30 cm × 15 stitches were sewn in the lengthwise direction at intervals of 1 cm using the sewing threads obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples. JIS L1096 shows the moisture absorption rate when the dough is left in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH for 24 hours from the absolutely dry state, and the moisture absorption rate when the fabric is left in an atmosphere of 30 ° C. and 90% RH for 24 hours. And calculated from the difference between the two. Hygroscopicity is equivalent to how much flocks are absorbed in clothing, the higher the comfort. Incidentally, the hygroscopicity when measured with only the fabric was 3.8.
(5) Color sense of stitches The same fabric as that used in the measurement of the hygroscopicity was sewn at a 1 cm interval with a stitch pitch of 2 mm and 1 m × 10 stitches using the sewing threads obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, and dyeing. The color difference between the sewn portion and the fabric after scouring was visually evaluated and determined as follows.

○: The stitches are inconspicuous with the same dyeing condition as the fabric. △: The stitching conditions are slightly different from the fabric and the stitches are conspicuous. ×: The dyeing condition is so different from the fabric that the stitches can be seen apart. (6) Stitch puckering The same fabric used for the above hygroscopic measurement is marked with a 20 cm gap, and the stitches obtained in the examples and comparative examples are used at a stitch pitch of 2 mm. One center was sewn, dyed and refined, and the shrinkage (puckering P) of the stitches after 10 times of washing at 60 ° C. for 50 minutes was calculated from the following formula.

P = {20−L) / 20} × 100
P: Puckering [%]
L: Mark interval after washing [cm]
(7) Clothing comfort Using a bamboo fiber spun yarn similar to that used for the evaluation of the hygroscopicity, a knit having a gauge number of 24, a structure: a jersey, and a basis weight of 78 g / m ² was manufactured. The underwear was sewed using the sewing thread obtained in the comparative example. This underwear was worn on a monitor of five people for one week, and the comfort was evaluated in five levels (5 is the best), and the average value was calculated.

[Example 1]
Bamboo fiber staple having a fineness of 1.6 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 1.8 cN / dtex, and a polyester staple having a fineness of 1.3 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 6.3 cN / dtex in a weight ratio of 20:80. And a polyester filament having a fineness of 56 dtex, a configuration of 18 pieces, a tensile breaking strength of 6.5 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 2.0% is inserted into the core using RX240 NEW-EST manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation. Thus, a 40th core yarn with a twist of 3.9 was manufactured. After drawing the two yarns together and twisting with a double twister made by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. with a twist coefficient of 3.6, using a high-pressure steam setter made by Iwata Manufacturing Co., Ltd., shrink and set at 105 ° C for 20 minutes. After being rolled up on cheese, dyed with disperse dye at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes, and finished with a finishing oil agent GS-100SH manufactured by Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd. 5% o. w. f was given as a sewing thread.

[Example 2]
100% bamboo fiber staple having a fineness of 1.7 dtex, a fiber length of 35 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 2.0 cN / dtex was used. RX240NEW-EST manufactured by Toyoda Automatic Loom Co., Ltd., fineness of 56 dtex, number of components, 18 tensile breaking strength 6 After the production of a 40th core yarn having a twist coefficient of 3.9 and inserting a polyester filament of .5 cN / dtex and a boiling water shrinkage of 2.0% into the core, the same method as in Example 1 was followed. A sewing thread was obtained.

[Example 3]
A sewing thread was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that bamboo fiber filaments having a fineness of 78 dtex, a configuration number of 24, a tensile breaking strength of 6.0 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 3.0% were used as the core yarn.

[Example 4]
The same bamboo fiber staple and polyester staple as in Example 1 were mixed at a weight ratio of 50:50, and Murata Vortex Spinner No. manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. was mixed. At 810, a polyester filament having a fineness of 78 dtex, a configuration number of 24, a tensile breaking strength of 7.7 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 0.8% is inserted into the core, and the 40th core yarn in which the core yarn is untwisted After production, a sewing thread was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

[Comparative Example 1]
A bamboo fiber similar to Example 1 was mixed with rayon staples made from pulp having a fineness of 1.5 dtex, a fiber length of 35 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 1.2 cN / dtex at a weight ratio of 10:90. ) After the 40th staple yarn with a twisting factor of 3.9 was produced by RX240 NEW-EST manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation, a sewing thread was obtained by the same production method as in Example 1.

[Comparative Example 2]
100% polyester staple having a fineness of 1.3 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a tensile breaking strength of 6.3 cN / dtex was used, and Murata Vortex Spinner No. manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. was used. After manufacturing a 40th core yarn in a non-twisted state at 810, a polyester filament having a fineness of 78 dtex, a configuration number of 24, a tensile breaking strength of 7.7 cN / dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 0.8% was inserted into the core. A sewing thread was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
Table 1 shows the measurement results and evaluation results of the sewing threads obtained in the above examples and comparative examples.

  As shown in Table 1, the core yarn sewing thread obtained in Example 1 does not reduce the moisture absorption and desorption of the fabric made of bamboo fiber, and the filament of the core yarn covers the low strength of the bamboo fiber. The performance for high-speed sewing was also improved. Further, even when a sewing product made of bamboo fiber was dyed, no difference in dyeing between the stitches and the fabric occurred.

  Further, the core yarn sewing thread obtained in Example 2 improved the moisture absorption / release characteristics of the fabric made of bamboo fibers, and the filaments of the core yarn covered the low strength of the bamboo fibers, thereby improving the performance for high-speed sewing. Further, even when a sewing product made of bamboo fiber was dyed, no difference in dyeing between the seam and the fabric occurred.

  Further, the sewing thread obtained in Example 3 was entirely composed of bamboo fiber, and greatly improved the moisture absorption and desorption of the fabric. Further, the puckering after washing was extremely small, and in the underwear wearing test, there was no discomfort due to contact between the seam and the skin.

  In addition, the sewing thread obtained in Example 4 improved the moisture absorption and release properties of the fabric made of bamboo fiber, and the filament of the core yarn improved the strength of the bamboo fiber, and also improved the performance for high-speed sewing. Moreover, since the core yarn was untwisted, the core yarn was not exposed, and the seam color was closest to the fabric. Also, as an underwear, it was highly evaluated that the soft touch of the short fiber yarn was not damaged by the sewing thread.

  The sewing thread obtained in Comparative Example 1 had low strength, and thread breakage occurred frequently during high-speed sewing. Moreover, the moisture absorption / release property of the fabric which consists of bamboo fiber was reduced, and the comfort as underwear was low.

  Although the sewing thread obtained in Comparative Example 2 has no problem in strength and sewability, the moisture absorption and release properties of bamboo fibers are remarkably reduced, and since it has a different surface feeling from bamboo fibers, the fabric is dyed when the bamboo fiber fabric is sewn. The seam was extremely conspicuous, and puckering after washing was remarkable, which was unsuitable for parts where the appearance quality was important. In addition, as the underwear, the seam and the skin contacted each other, and the evaluation was that the comfort was considerably poor.

Claims (3)

A core yarn sewing thread characterized in that a plurality of core yarns each having a long fiber yarn in a core portion and a short fiber yarn in a sheath portion are combined and twisted, and the core yarn contains bamboo fibers. The core yarn sewing thread according to claim 1, wherein the bamboo fiber is contained in a short fiber yarn. A sewn product that is sewn with the core yarn sewing thread according to claim 1.