WO2021073551A1

WO2021073551A1 - Composite yarn and fabric prepared therefrom

Info

Publication number: WO2021073551A1
Application number: PCT/CN2020/121008
Authority: WO
Inventors: 潘涛; 包庆; 滨田润二; 陈娟
Original assignee: 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
Priority date: 2019-10-16
Filing date: 2020-10-15
Publication date: 2021-04-22
Also published as: JP2022552948A; TW202124799A; CN114402099B; CN114402099A

Abstract

A composite yarn and a fabric prepared therefrom. The composite yarn is composed of filaments (1, 2) and short fiber bundles, wherein the latent torque direction of the filaments is opposite to the twist direction of the composite yarn. The composite yarn has a stable core-spun shape and has features such as better elongation elasticity. The fabric prepared therefrom has good elastic properties, and the short fiber cotton type has a strong feel and good appearance quality.

Description

Composite yarn and fabric prepared therefrom

Technical field

The invention relates to a composite yarn which does not damage the style of short fibers and has excellent elongation and elongation recovery properties and a fabric prepared therefrom.

Background technique

With the continuous improvement of people's living standards, the fashion trends of clothing are also constantly changing, and the development of yarns needs to constantly introduce new ones. Traditional elastic yarns are mostly obtained by using bare spandex as the core and outsourcing other types of short fibers. However, due to the poor weather resistance, temperature resistance and dyeing and finishing properties of bare spandex yarns, after a long period of continuous use, the yarn is prone to problems such as elastic loss, stress relaxation, embrittlement fracture, and core filament exposure. For this reason, it has been proposed to develop elastic composite yarns that do not use spandex bare filaments. For example, Chinese Patent Document CN102454004A discloses a composite elastic filament core-spun yarn fabric and a preparation method thereof, and specifically discloses that the composite elastic filament core-spun yarn uses PTT/PET side-by-side composite elastic filament as the core filament and uses natural fiber And/or chemical fiber is an outsourcing fiber, which takes into account both the requirements of elasticity and comfort, but because the elasticity of the core yarn has not been fully utilized, the overall elasticity of the core yarn is still lacking.

In addition, in the field of long and short composite processing, people have also conducted a lot of research. For example, Chinese Patent Document CN101649515A discloses a twisted core-spun composite yarn and its process and fabric, and specifically discloses that the outer fiber of the twisted core-spun composite yarn and the core skeleton yarn are in a twisted core-spun structure. The problem that the skeleton yarn of untwisted composite yarn is easy to be exposed. Among them, the core skeleton yarn can be twisted or untwisted, but if the core skeleton yarn is in a twisted state, problems such as small braids and suppressed elasticity will occur; If the core skeleton yarn is in an untwisted state, problems such as outer fiber layer and poor entanglement will occur during the spinning process.

For another example, Chinese patent document CN1853008B discloses a composite double core-spun yarn that is basically torque-free and the central hard core is wrapped with a double-spun fiber outer layer. Specifically, it discloses that the core yarn and the outer fiber layer are matched in the twist direction to obtain A composite yarn with no torque state, in which the core yarn has Z or S twists, which solves the problem of low coverage when the Siro core-spun method uses an inelastic core. However, such core-spun yarn has no elasticity and its application range is limited. Limitations, and because the core yarn has twists, there will also be problems such as small braids.

Summary of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a composite yarn that does not damage the staple fiber style, has excellent elongation and elongation recovery, and a fabric prepared therefrom.

The technical solution of the present invention:

The composite yarn of the present invention is composed of filaments and short fiber bundles, and the latent torque direction of the filaments in the composite yarn is opposite to the twisting direction of the composite yarn.

Preferably, the above-mentioned filaments are composed of elastic fibers.

Preferably, the elastic fiber is a side-by-side type latent crimping composite fiber or an eccentric core-sheath type latent crimping composite fiber.

Preferably, the elongation modulus of the composite yarn of the present invention is 30%-95% measured according to the JIS L 1013 8.9 A (2010) method.

A fabric made using the composite yarn of the present invention.

Description of the drawings

Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the Z-twisted composite yarn of the present invention, in which 1 is a filament in the S direction of potential torque.

Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the S-twisted composite yarn of the present invention, in which 2 is the filament in the Z direction of potential torque.

Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the S direction of the potential torque of the filament.

Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the potential torque of the filament in the Z direction.

Detailed ways

The composite yarn of the present invention is composed of filaments and short fiber bundles. The specific manufacturing method of the composite yarn is not particularly limited. It can be obtained by compound twisting short fiber bundles made of short fibers and filaments on a spinning frame or a vortex spinning machine; it can also be obtained on a spinning machine and other equipment first. The spun yarn and the filament are combined and then twisted on a twisting machine and other equipment to obtain it. When the short fiber bundles and the filaments are combined twisted, the torque of the filaments can be more expressed, so a method in which the short fiber bundles and the filaments are combined twisted is preferable. The twist coefficient during twisting is not particularly limited. If the twist coefficient is too low, the short fiber bundles tend to fall off the filaments due to friction and other reasons, which may cause the composite yarn to become exposed filaments; if the twist coefficient is too high, The cohesive force of the short fiber bundles on the filaments is increased, and the potential torque of the filaments may not be reflected. Therefore, the twist coefficient (K value) is preferably 2.5 to 5.0, and more preferably 3.0 to 4.5.

In the composite yarn of the present invention, it is important that the potential torque direction of the filament is opposite to the twisting direction of the composite yarn. This is because the filament is given a twist in the opposite direction to its own potential torque, and the force that the filament wants to recover becomes greater, the torque is strongly reflected, and therefore, the elongation of the composite yarn is improved.

Torque refers to the corresponding torsional stress stored between the fibers during the fiber being stretched and twisted during processing, and the mechanical properties that have a twisting trend are finally fed back and have directionality. The potential torque here refers to the obvious torque that is not obvious in the natural tension-free state, but appears when heated at 200±10°C. When the composite yarn is used to form a fabric, heat treatment is carried out. The torque that occurs at this time has a great influence on the elongation of the fabric, so this potential torque is very important.

The filaments with latent torque in the present invention may be inelastic fibers or elastic fibers, preferably elastic fibers. The so-called elastic fiber can be divided into two categories, one is the fiber whose elasticity comes from the raw material itself, and the other is the fiber whose elasticity comes from the shape of the yarn. The so-called inelastic fibers are fibers other than the above-mentioned elastic fibers, and examples thereof include fibers having a fiber crimp degree of 0.10 or less or fibers having a network point of 20 points/m or less.

The elasticity comes from the fiber of the raw material itself, which can be polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (PTT) or polybutylene terephthalate fiber (PBT), or two-component composite fiber with different viscosities. Two-component composite fibers with different viscosities can be two-component composite fibers (PET/PET) with the same components of polyethylene terephthalate, or they can be composed of polybutylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate. The two-component composite fiber (PBT/PET) formed of different components such as ethylene terephthalate can also be composed of different components such as polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate The formed two-component composite fiber (PTT/PET). These fibers can exhibit excellent elongation and elongation recovery in a specific hot and humid environment.

In the present invention, the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited. It may be a conventional circular cross-section, or other cross-sectional shapes other than circular, such as triangle, quadrangle, cross, flat, honeycomb flat, H-shaped, W type, eccentric core sheath type, island type, side by side type, dumbbell type, etc. Among the two-component composite fibers with different viscosities, the cross-sectional shape of the eccentric core-sheath type or side-by-side type fiber has good potential crimping and the composite yarn has superior elasticity, so it is preferred.

The elasticity comes from the fibers of the yarn form, which can be false twisted yarns (hereinafter referred to as DTY) obtained by conventional false twist texturing of various fibers. The false twist texturing process makes the fiber crimp and deforms, and gives the yarn excellent elongation and elongation recovery. Preferably, elastic fibers satisfying both raw material and yarn form are preferred, such as PTT DTY, PBT DTY, PTT/PET DTY, PBT/PET DTY, high viscosity PET/low viscosity PET DTY, high crimping polyamide DTY, and so on. These yarns can be commercially available products or self-produced products.

In the present invention, the monofilament fineness of the filament is not limited in any way. Considering the extensibility and elongation recovery of the composite yarn, it is preferably 1.10 to 4.00 dtex, more preferably 1.60 to 3.60 dtex.

The short fibers constituting the composite yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited, and may be polyester fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, polyamide fibers, viscose fibers, acetate fibers, cellulose fibers such as cotton, hemp, etc., and may be wool, silk, etc. Other animal fibers may also be a mixture of these fibers. The length of these short fibers is not particularly limited, but in consideration of the fastness to the entanglement between the short fiber bundle and the filaments, it is preferably 26 to 90 mm, and more preferably 29 to 51 mm.

Preferably, the elongation modulus of the composite yarn of the present invention is 30%-95%, and more preferably 40%-85%, as measured according to JIS L 1013 8.9 A method (2010). If the elongation elasticity of the composite yarn is less than 30%, the extensibility and elongation recovery of the fabric containing the composite yarn will tend to deteriorate; on the contrary, if the elongation elasticity exceeds 95%, the composite yarn will be included. The extensibility and elongation recovery of the thread fabric are too large, and the finished garment may have a strong tightness. Therefore, it is preferably 30%-95%, more preferably 40%-85%.

The fabric containing the composite yarn of the present invention can be a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, or a loop fabric. When used as a woven fabric, its weave is not particularly limited, such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc., and it can also be a multi-weave fabric. Among them, from the viewpoint of elasticity, a twill weave or a satin weave with relatively few binding points between the yarns is more preferable.

In the case of a knitted fabric, the structure is not particularly limited, and it may be a circular knitted fabric knitted by a circular weft knitting machine, a flat knitted fabric knitted by a flat knitting machine, or a warp knitted fabric. The organization of circular knitted fabrics and flat knitting fabrics can be plain weave, rib weave, double rib weave, double reverse weave, tuck weave, float weave, lace weave, spun yarn weave, half-knit weave, etc. The warp knitted fabric can be a single-bar warp flat weave, a single-bar warp satin weave, a double-bar warp warp weave, a double-bar warp warp-warp weave, a back-side raised weave, a jacquard weave, and the like. Among them, from the viewpoint of elasticity, a circular knit fabric is preferable. And single-layer and multi-layers are possible, and the multi-layers here can be double-layer or more layers of organization.

The fabric of the present invention can be prepared by using the above-mentioned composite yarn on conventional weaving equipment and knitting equipment. In addition, under the premise of not damaging the fabric, conventional scouring processing, dyeing processing, water absorption processing, water repellent processing, and fluffing processing can also be carried out. It can also use anti-ultraviolet agents, antibacterial agents, deodorants, insect repellents, light storage agents, Various processing for imparting functions such as light-reflecting agents and anion generators. Among them, from the viewpoint of elasticity, a soft resin finish that is advantageous for relative sliding between the yarns is preferred.

The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiments and comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The parameters involved in the present invention are measured by the following methods.

(1) Potential torque direction of filament

Decompose the sample filament of about 5cm directly from the composite yarn or extract the composite yarn from the fabric and decompose the sample filament of about 5cm. Place the sample filament on a hot plate at 200±10°C in a relaxed state, and observe its twisting direction. Among them, the material and size of the hot plate are not particularly limited. The torque direction results are shown in Figures 3 and 4. If the twisting direction of the filament is a counterclockwise characteristic, the potential torque direction of the filament is the S direction, and vice versa, the potential torque direction of the filament is the Z direction.

(2) Twist coefficient K value

According to JIS L 1095 9.15.1 Method A (2010), the actual twist T (unit: twist/m) of the composite yarn is measured, and then the twist coefficient K value is calculated by the following calculation formula:

Among them, Ne is the imperial count of the composite yarn.

(3) Elongation elasticity

Test according to JIS L 1013 8.9 A method (2010).

(4) Elongation

Test according to JIS L 1096 8.14.1 B method (2010).

(5) The length of short fiber

Made by USTER

The single fiber information system is tested, and the weight average fiber length is measured as the length of the short fiber of the present invention, in mm.

(6) Telescopic recovery rate

Test according to JIS L 1013 8.12 (2010).

Example 1

First, select Xinjiang cotton with a length of more than 29mm and go through conventional spinning processes such as opening, carding, drawing and roving to obtain a roving of 4.0g/10m. After that, it is fed to the roving feeding part of the spinning frame, and the PBT/PET two-component side-by-side false-twisted yarn (84dtex/24f) with S latent torque direction is fed to the filament feeding part, which is combined with the aforementioned roving and applied With a twist of 935 twists/m (twist coefficient K value of 4.3) in the Z direction, a composite yarn of 30 British counts was obtained.

Next, the above composite yarn is used as the weft yarn, and the 40-inch spun yarn made from 100% Xinjiang cotton fiber through conventional spinning processes such as opening, carding, drawing, roving and spun yarn is used as the warp yarn, 1/3 twill The structure is woven, and the weaving density is 98 threads/inch in the warp direction and 70 threads/inch in the weft direction to obtain a grey fabric. Then, the grey fabric is subjected to conventional dyeing and finishing processing to obtain the woven fabric of the present invention. Among them, when dyeing, 3.0% by weight of reactive dyes are added, and the bath ratio is 1:8; when finishing, 3.0% by weight of silicone-based water-absorbing soft resin is added.

The parameters of composite yarn and woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Example 2

The PBT/PET eccentric core sheath type false twisted yarn of 93 dtex/36f is fed into the filament feeding part of the spinning frame, the latent torque is in the S direction, and the rest is the same as in Example 1, to obtain the composite yarn and woven fabric of the present invention.

The parameters of composite yarn and woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Example 3

Feed 110dtex/36f high crimping polyamide false-twisted yarn (stretch recovery rate 46%) into the filament feeding part of the spinning frame, the latent torque is in the S direction, and the rest is the same as in Example 1, to obtain the composite yarn of the present invention And woven fabric.

The parameters of composite yarn and woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Example 4

Feed 100dtex/48f PET/PET two-component side-by-side false twist processing yarn into the filament feeding part of the spinning frame. The latent torque is in the Z direction. After merging with the roving, the actual twist in the S direction is applied, and the rest is the same as in Example 1. , To obtain the composite yarn and woven fabric of the present invention.

The parameters of composite yarn and woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Example 5

In the filament feeding part of the spinning frame, feed 83dtex/36f ordinary PET false-twisted yarn with the potential torque in the Z direction. After merging with the roving, the real twist in the S direction is applied. The rest is the same as in Example 1, to obtain the composite of the present invention. Yarn and woven fabric.

Comparative example 1

Without using the filament, the Xinjiang cotton fiber 100% roving in Example 1 was used directly to spin the yarn through a spinning frame, and a real twist of 935 twists/m (twist coefficient K value of 4.3) was applied to obtain a 30-inch spun yarn. The rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.

The parameters of spun yarn and woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Comparative example 2

In the filament feeding part of the spinning frame, 84dtex/24f PBT/PET two-component side-by-side false-twisted processed yarn was fed with the potential torque in the Z direction, and the rest was the same as in Example 1, to obtain a composite yarn and a woven fabric.

The parameters of composite yarn and woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Comparative example 3

The high-crimp polyamide false-twist processed yarn with the potential torque in the Z direction is selected, and the rest is the same as in Example 3 to obtain a composite yarn and a woven fabric.

The parameters of composite yarn and woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Table 1

According to Table 1,

(1) It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 3 that under the same conditions, compared with the composite yarn with the filament of PBT/PET DTY and the composite yarn with the filament of high-crimp polyamide DTY, the elongation elasticity of the former is And the weft elongation of the fabric obtained therefrom is obviously higher than the latter.

(2) It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 5 that under the same conditions, compared with the composite yarn with the filament of PBT/PET DTY and the composite yarn with the filament of PET DTY, the elongation elasticity of the former and its The weft elongation of the obtained fabrics is obviously higher than the latter.

(3) From Comparative Example 1 and Example 5, it can be seen that under the same conditions, 100% cotton pure spun spun yarn is compared with PET DTY/cotton composite yarn, the former’s elongation modulus and the fabric’s The elongation in the weft direction is very poor.

(4) From Comparative Example 2 and Example 1, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the latent torque direction of the filament is the same as the twist direction of the composite yarn, and the latent torque direction of the filament is opposite to the twist direction of the composite yarn. Compared with the composite yarn, the elongation elasticity of the former and the weft elongation of the fabric obtained from it are very poor.

(5) It can be seen from Comparative Example 3 and Example 3 that under the same conditions, the latent torque direction of the filament is the same as the twist direction of the composite yarn, and the latent torque direction of the filament is opposite to the twist direction of the composite yarn. Compared with the composite yarn, the elongation elasticity of the former and the weft elongation of the fabric obtained from it are very poor.

Claims

A composite yarn is composed of filaments and short fiber bundles, and is characterized in that the potential torque direction of the filaments is opposite to the twisting direction of the composite yarn.
The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the filaments are elastic fibers.
The composite yarn according to claim 2, wherein the elastic fiber is a side-by-side type latent crimping composite fiber or an eccentric core-sheath type latent crimping composite fiber.
The composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the elongation modulus of the composite yarn is 30%-95% when measured according to the JIS L 1013 8.9 A method.
A fabric containing the composite yarn of any one of claims 1 to 4.