WO2023155860A1 - 针织面料及其用途 - Google Patents

针织面料及其用途 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023155860A1
WO2023155860A1 PCT/CN2023/076657 CN2023076657W WO2023155860A1 WO 2023155860 A1 WO2023155860 A1 WO 2023155860A1 CN 2023076657 W CN2023076657 W CN 2023076657W WO 2023155860 A1 WO2023155860 A1 WO 2023155860A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
δmr
knitted fabric
moisture absorption
humidity
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PCT/CN2023/076657
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
史春丽
张晴
顾玉培
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东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司
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Publication of WO2023155860A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023155860A1/zh

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a knitted fabric and its application, in particular to a knitted fabric with the function of regulating temperature and humidity and its application.
  • Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2004-316005 discloses a fiber structure with moisture absorption and heat generation properties, and specifically discloses that the fiber structure is made of materials with moisture absorption and desorption properties, and the surface of the fiber is attached with thermal stimulation. Sexual substances can enhance blood circulation. Therefore, the fiber structure has more excellent thermal insulation and hygroscopicity, and is mainly used for warm clothing in winter, etc., but it cannot achieve the purpose of regulating temperature and humidity in winter and summer.
  • Chinese patent document CN103584385A discloses a dual-purpose clothing for cooling and warming, and specifically discloses that it is composed of a cool layer and a warm layer connected up and down. Cotton threads are used to sew the cool layer and the warm layer together. Although the dual-purpose properties of cool and warm are obtained, since the cool layer and the warm layer are connected by cotton threads, the cotton threads are easily broken after repeated washings, and the durability needs to be further improved.
  • Chinese patent document CN204994641U discloses a moisture-absorbing and heating antistatic sweater, and specifically discloses that the outer layer of the fabric is made of antistatic nylon fibers, the inner layer is made of moisture-absorbing and heating acrylic fibers, and the neckline is made of mosquito-repelling regenerated cellulose.
  • buttons are composed of magnetic therapy stones, among which, antistatic nylon fibers are added with conductive substances such as carbon black. Because these fiber materials have strong heat absorption, they are more suitable for autumn and winter seasons, and cannot be used for temperature regulation and humidity regulation in winter and summer. the goal of.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric with temperature and humidity regulation function and excellent durability and its application.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a double-sided structure comprising a face A and a face B, wherein the difference in moisture absorption rate of face A ⁇ MR A and the difference of moisture absorption rate of face B ⁇ MR B satisfy the following relational expression,
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has a specific moisture absorption difference relationship between the surface A and the surface B, so it has a superior temperature and humidity regulation effect, and can be worn and used no matter in the hot summer or in the cold winter. Moreover, it has excellent durability and can be widely used to make underwear, T-shirts, etc.
  • Fig. 1 is the weaving diagram of the air layer structure in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 2 is a weaving diagram of the changed weave in Example 15 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 3 is an air layer weaving diagram of embodiment 20 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 4 is an air layer weaving diagram of embodiment 21 of the present invention.
  • Moisture absorption is a dynamic process, that is, the fiber continuously releases water vapor while absorbing water vapor.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has a double-sided structure, including a surface A and a surface B, wherein the difference in moisture absorption rate of surface A ⁇ MR A and the difference in moisture absorption rate of surface B ⁇ MR B satisfy the following relational expression,
  • ⁇ MR A Equilibrium moisture absorption rate of surface A at 30°C, 90%RH - Equilibrium moisture absorption rate of surface A at 20°C, 65%RH,
  • ⁇ MR B Equilibrium moisture absorption rate of surface B at 30°C, 90%RH - Equilibrium moisture absorption rate of surface B at 20°C, 65%RH.
  • the equilibrium moisture absorption rate here refers to the moisture regain rate when the fiber material absorbs and dehumidifies under certain atmospheric conditions when the moisture absorption and desorption effects are balanced and stable, also known as the equilibrium moisture regain rate.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is of double-face construction, including face A and face B. This is considering that when the fabric is double-sided, the two sides can achieve different ⁇ MR. With the change of indoor and outdoor temperature difference and air pressure difference, when entering another temperature and humidity environment from a different temperature and humidity environment, it will make the clothes inside Changes in climate microcirculation.
  • the present invention requires ( ⁇ MR A + ⁇ MR B )/2 ⁇ 0.5, preferably 1.0-8.0, more preferably 1.5-7.0; requires
  • the outdoor temperature is high and the humidity is high; while the indoor temperature is low and the humidity is low.
  • the amount of human sweating increases.
  • the appropriate moisture absorption rate difference allows the fabric to absorb moisture from the air around the skin and reduce Hotness and discomfort.
  • the external high temperature makes the water evaporate, and part of the heat of vaporization is taken away, so that the temperature and humidity in the microclimate environment between the clothes and the human body can be kept in a low range, and the human body feels cool.
  • the outdoor temperature is low and the humidity is low; while the indoor temperature is high and the humidity is high.
  • ⁇ MR moisture absorption rate difference
  • the double-sided structure of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be a double-layer structure of a single-sided structure, such as a single-sided polyester-covered cotton (or cotton-covered polyester) structure, etc.; it can also be a multi-layer structure of a single-sided structure, such as all coils added Yarn organization, partial coil plating organization, etc. It can be a double-layer structure of double-sided weave, such as double-sided rib, double-sided cotton wool, double-sided variable weave, etc.; it can also be a multi-layer structure of double-sided weave, such as double-sided air layer weave (sandwich weave or five-sandwich weave) wait. If it is a double-layer structure of double-sided weave, it is preferred that the inner yarn is not exposed in the surface weave, such as connecting in the form of tuck.
  • the underfill coefficient characterizes the tightness of the fabric, and refers to the ratio between the loop length (mm) and the yarn diameter (mm). The longer the coil length and the thinner the yarn, the larger the unfilled coefficient value, the more space in the fabric that is not filled by the yarn, and the looser the fabric.
  • the ratio a ⁇ 0.5 or a>2.0 of the underfull coefficient the tightness difference between the two sides of the fabric is large, that is, the style difference between the two sides is large, and the quality of the fabric tends to decline. Therefore, as a preference, in the present invention, a completely In the weave and yarn circulation, the ratio a of the underfill coefficient of surface A to surface B satisfies the following relationship: 2.0 ⁇ a ⁇ 0.5.
  • the monofilament fineness of the yarn forming the surface A and the surface B is not particularly limited, but the monofilament fineness of the yarn forming the surface B is preferably 2.2 dtex or less.
  • the appropriate monofilament fineness is conducive to surface B absorbing more water; at the same time, when the monofilament fineness of the yarn is below 2.2dtex, the yarn feels soft and the surface B is smoother as a whole, and it is easier to obtain a larger contact area. For the hot summer, it is more conducive to the release and instantaneous conduction of heat.
  • the exposure rate of the spun yarn on surface A and surface B has a great influence on the thermal insulation and cold feeling of the fabric.
  • the fiber raw materials of the spun yarn can be exemplified by wool, acrylic fiber, cotton, modal, tencel, lyocell, viscose, etc., and far-infrared yarns can also be enumerated.
  • Far-infrared yarn is obtained by adding far-infrared particles to the yarn or by coating, such as far-infrared polyester, far-infrared acrylic fiber, etc.
  • the exposure rate of the spun yarn on the face A of the present invention is greater than 50%, and its fiber raw material is one or more of wool, acrylic fiber and viscose.
  • wool is more preferably shrink-resistant wool.
  • the shrink-proof wool here refers to the wool that has undergone shrink-proof treatment, that is, the scales on the surface of the wool fiber are removed by chemical, biological and other methods, or the method of resin filling and coating or a combination of the two methods.
  • the acrylic fibers can be ordinary acrylic fibers or superfine acrylic fibers, more preferably superfine acrylic fibers.
  • the superfine acrylic fiber here refers to the acrylic fiber whose monofilament fineness is below 1.1dtex.
  • the acrylic fiber is superfine acrylic fiber, the fabric is softer and of better quality, and is more suitable for wearing next to the skin.
  • the exposure rate of the spun yarn on the surface A is more preferably 70 to 100%.
  • the side with a larger exposure rate of the spun yarn is used as the side A, and the other side is used as the side B in consideration of temperature and humidity regulation.
  • the total fineness of the yarns on the surface A is not particularly limited, but preferably 30 to 80 Ne.
  • the total denier of the yarn is lower than 30 Ne, the yarn is thicker, the fabric style is rough, and the fineness tends to decline; when the total denier of the yarn is higher than 80 Ne, the yarn is thinner and the yarn is strong If the yarn count is lower, there may be yarn breakage. In addition, the yarn count increases, and the cost also tends to increase.
  • the fiber raw materials of the filament multifilaments on the surface B include polyamide, polyester, viscose, tencel, modal, lyocell, cupro, real silk and the like.
  • the exposure rate of filament multifilament on surface B is greater than 50%, and its fiber raw material is one or more of polyamide, polyester and viscose.
  • the polyester fiber here can be ordinary polyester fiber (PET), cationic dye-dyeable polyester fiber (CDP), or polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (PTT) and so on.
  • the cross-sectional shape of these fiber raw materials is not particularly limited, it can be a circular cross-section, and it can also be a special-shaped cross-section such as a triangle, a cross, and a multi-leaf shape.
  • the shape of the filament is not particularly limited, and it can be FDY, DTY, etc., preferably FDY.
  • fibers with higher thermal conductivity, such as polyamide fibers are more preferred.
  • the exposure rate of the filament multifilaments on the surface B is more preferably 70 to 100%.
  • the side with a larger exposure rate of the filament multifilament is used as the side B, and the other side is used as the surface A in consideration of temperature regulation and humidity control.
  • the total fineness of the yarns on the surface B is not particularly limited, but is preferably 33 to 165 dtex, more preferably 55 to 84 dtex.
  • the yarn is thicker, and the fabric style is rough and heavy, which may affect the evaporation of water, and the effect of temperature and humidity adjustment tends to decline; and when the total fineness of the yarn is lower than
  • the yarn is 33dtex, the yarn is thinner and the strength is lower, and the phenomenon of yarn breakage may occur during weaving.
  • the thinner the yarn, the thinner the fabric, and the lower the temperature and humidity adjustment effect is not particularly limited, but is preferably 33 to 165 dtex, more preferably 55 to 84 dtex.
  • the temperature-humidity-regulating effect of the present invention refers to the ability of the temperature difference between the fabric and the surrounding environment after it enters another temperature-humidity condition from one fixed temperature-humidity condition.
  • the simulated conditions during the specific test are: when the environment changes from indoor to outdoor in winter, the indoor temperature and humidity is 20°C ⁇ 65%RH, and the outdoor temperature and humidity is 10°C ⁇ 30%RH; when the environment changes from indoor to outdoor in summer, The indoor temperature and humidity are 20°C ⁇ 65%RH, and the outdoor temperature and humidity are 30°C ⁇ 90%RH.
  • the exposure rate of spun yarn on the A surface is greater than 50%, the exposure rate of the filament multifilament is less than 50%, and the exposure rate of the spun yarn on the B surface is less than 50%, and the exposure rate of the filament multifilament is less than 50%.
  • the ratio is greater than 50%. In this case, the performance differentiation of the two sides can be ensured to the greatest extent, that is, the surface A has superior thermal insulation, and the surface B has a superior contact cold feeling, and the difference is obvious.
  • the clo value of the surface A is 0.65 or more, and the qmax value of the surface B is 0.12 or more.
  • water-absorbing agents, softeners, antistatic agents, etc. can be selected for processing as required during finishing.
  • the water absorbing agent may be polyester resin, acrylic resin or the like.
  • the softening agent may be silicone resin or the like.
  • Antistatic agents can be cationic, anionic, nonionic, complex, etc., such as alkylsulfonate anionic antistatic agents, quaternary ammonium salt cationic antistatic agents, etc.
  • the garments made of the knitted fabric of the present invention are suitable for any wearing scenarios, and can be worn on one side throughout the year, or alternately worn on both sides according to seasonal changes.
  • test method of each parameter involved in the present invention is as follows:
  • x d the number of coils of the looped structure formed by the spun yarn
  • y the number of loops of all looped structures on the surface
  • Exposure rate of filament multifilament 100% - z.
  • step a4) Put the yarn in step a3) into the constant temperature and humidity machine under the condition of 30°C ⁇ 90%RH, perform humidity adjustment and balance for 24 hours, weigh it and record it as W2;
  • step a5) Put the yarn in step a4) into a constant temperature drying oven at 105°C, take it out after 2 hours of dryness, put it in a drying container, and cool it in an environment of 20°C for 30 minutes, weigh it and record it as W3;
  • W3 the mass (g) of the test piece in the dry state (excluding the weight of the weighing bottle);
  • steps a2) to a6) measure and calculate the moisture absorption rate difference of the yarn marked a in the remaining 4 samples, and take the average value as the moisture absorption rate difference ⁇ MR A of surface A of the present invention
  • the proportion z a of yarn ab on surface A can be calculated according to the following formula:
  • x the number of loops of the looped structure formed by yarn ab on surface A
  • y the total number of loops in a complete weave on surface A and the loop weave in the yarn cycle
  • ⁇ MR A ⁇ MR a ⁇ (1-z a ) + ( ⁇ MR ab ⁇ z a )
  • ⁇ MR B ⁇ MR b ⁇ (1 ⁇ z b )+( ⁇ MR ab ⁇ z b ).
  • KES-F7-II the temperature of the hot plate is set to 40°C.
  • the 1st and 2nd paths are fed with polyamide FDY
  • the 3rd path is fed with CDP DTY
  • the 4th path is fed with wool/acrylic blended yarn
  • the thread length between wool/acrylic blended yarn and CDP DTY The ratio is 1.25.
  • the wool/acrylic blended yarn with a blending ratio of 20:80 is replaced with the wool/acrylic blended yarn with a blending ratio of 45:55, and the line length ratio between the wool/acrylic blended yarn and CDP DTY is adjusted to 1.30, and the rest Same as Example 1, the knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained, and the specific parameters are shown in Tables 1 and 3. the
  • the wool/acrylic blended yarn with a blending ratio of 20:80 is replaced with the wool/acrylic blended yarn with a blending ratio of 60:40, and the line length ratio between the wool/acrylic blended yarn and CDP DTY is adjusted to 1.35, and the rest Same as Example 1, the knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained, and the specific parameters are shown in Tables 1 and 3.
  • the wool/acrylic blended yarn with a blending ratio of 20:80 is replaced by the wool/acrylic blended yarn with a blending ratio of 65:35, and the line length ratio between the wool/acrylic blended yarn and CDP DTY is adjusted to 1.36, and the rest Same as Example 1, the knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained, and the specific parameters are shown in Tables 1 and 3.
  • the wool/acrylic blended yarn of 43 British counts is replaced by 100% woolen yarn of 43 British counts, and the CDP DTY of 110dtex/36f is replaced by polyamide DTY of 77dtex/68f, and gray cloth is obtained by weaving, wherein, 100% woolen yarn and polyamide Adjust the line length ratio between amide DTY to 1.00, then carry out pretreatment (scouring agent 2g/L), dyeing (acid dye, 95°C ⁇ 30min, dyeing acid 2g/L, leveling agent 2g/L), and post-finishing Processing (antistatic agent 1g/L, neutralizing acid 1g/L), and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • pretreatment Scouring agent 2g/L
  • dyeing ascid dye, 95°C ⁇ 30min, dyeing acid 2g/L, leveling agent 2g/L
  • post-finishing Processing antistatic agent 1g/L, neutralizing acid 1g/L
  • the line length ratio between 100% wool yarn and polyamide DTY is adjusted to 0.81, and the rest is the same as in Example 5 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific parameters are shown in Tables 1 and 3.
  • the line length ratio between 100% wool yarn and polyamide DTY is adjusted to 3.23, and the rest is the same as in Example 5 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific parameters are shown in Tables 1 and 3.
  • the polyamide DTY of 77dtex/68f is replaced by the polyethylene FDY of 77dtex/36f, the line length ratio between 100% woolen yarn and polyethylene FDY is adjusted to 1.33, all the other are the same as embodiment 5, obtain knitted fabric of the present invention, specifically The parameters are shown in Table 2 and 4.
  • the polyamide DTY of 77dtex/36f is replaced by the polyamide DTY of 77dtex/24f, and the rest is the same as in Example 17 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific parameters are shown in Tables 2 and 4.
  • Wool/acrylic blended yarn (blend ratio 20:80) and 44dtex/36f polyamide FDY are selected for weaving.
  • polyamide FDY is fed into the 1st and 2nd routes
  • wool/acrylic blended yarn is fed into the 3rd and 4th routes.
  • Spinning the line length ratio between the 4th wool/acrylic blended yarn and the 3rd wool/acrylic blended yarn is 1.00
  • dyeing (acid dye, 95 °C ⁇ 30min, dyeing acid 2g/L, leveling agent 2g/L), the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric, and the specific parameters are shown in Tables 2 and 4.
  • the wool/acrylic blended yarn (blend ratio 20:80) of Ne 43 is replaced by wool/acrylic blended yarn (blend ratio 7:93), and the thread length ratio between wool/acrylic blended yarn and CDP DTY is 1.21, and all the other are the same as embodiment 1 to obtain the knitted fabric, and the specific parameters are shown in Tables 2 and 4.
  • Example 4 From Example 4 and Example 3, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the average value of the sum of the difference in moisture absorption rate on both sides is 1.5, and the absolute value of the difference in moisture absorption rate difference is 2.7.
  • the contact coldness of the surface B of the two is equivalent, but the temperature and humidity regulation of the former is better than that of the latter, and the thermal insulation of surface A is better than that of the latter. Also slightly better than the latter.
  • Example 6 From Example 6 and Example 5, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the temperature adjustment effect of the knitted fabric with the ratio of the two-sided unfilled coefficient of 0.5 is comparable to that of the knitted fabric with the ratio of the two-sided unfilled coefficient of 0.3 , the humidity control effect of the former, the thermal insulation of surface A and the cold feeling of surface B are better than the latter.
  • Example 8 From Example 8 and Example 9, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with a ratio of underfill coefficient on both sides of 2.0 is comparable to the knitted fabric with a ratio of underfill coefficient on both sides of 2.5. , the temperature adjustment effect of the former, the thermal insulation of surface A and the cold feeling of surface B are better than the latter.
  • Example 13 From Example 13 and Example 14, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with 100% wool yarn exposure rate on surface A is compared with the knitted fabric with 100% pure cotton yarn exposure rate on surface A.
  • the humidity-regulating effect of surface B and the cold feeling of surface B are both equivalent, and the temperature-regulating effect of the former and the thermal insulation of surface A are better than the latter.
  • Example 7 From Example 7 and Example 18, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with a polyamide fiber exposure rate of 100% on the surface B is compared with the knitted fabric with a polyethylene fiber exposure rate of 100% on the surface B. Although the feeling of coldness is a little worse than the latter, the temperature and humidity adjustment effect and the heat retention of surface A are better than the latter.
  • Example 17 From Example 17 and Example 19, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with the monofilament fineness of the yarn on the surface B is 2.1dtex compared with the knitted fabric with the monofilament fineness of the yarn on the surface B is 3.2dtex , although the temperature regulation effects of the two are equivalent, the humidity regulation effect and the cold feeling of the former are better than the latter.
  • Example 20 and Example 21 It can be seen from Example 20 and Example 21 that under the same conditions, compared with the knitted fabric with the wool yarn exposure rate of 70% on the surface A and the knitted fabric with the wool yarn exposure rate of 30% on the surface A, the two The cold feeling of the former is comparable to that of the latter, and the temperature and humidity regulation effect and heat preservation of the former are higher than that of the latter.
  • Example 20 From Example 20 and Example 22, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with a polyamide DTY exposure rate of 80% on surface B is compared with the knitted fabric with a polyamide DTY exposure rate of 40% on surface B , the heat preservation properties of the two are equivalent, and the temperature and humidity regulation effect of the former and the cold feeling of contact are higher than the latter.

Abstract

公开了一种针织面料及其用途。该针织面料为包括面A和面B的双面构造,其中,面A的吸湿率差ΔMR A和面B的吸湿率差ΔMR B满足如下关系式,(ΔMR A+ΔMR B)/2≥0.5,|ΔMR A-ΔMR B|≥0.1。由于面A和面B之间存在有特定的吸湿率差的关系,因而该针织面料制得的服装具有优越的调温调湿作用,而且耐久性极佳,可广泛用于制作内衣、T恤。

Description

针织面料及其用途 技术领域
本发明涉及一种针织面料及其用途,具体涉及一种具有调温调湿功能的针织面料及其用途。
背景技术
当今社会,随着生活水平的不断提高,消费者在服装的穿着舒适性和功能性方面上的需求也在日益增强。另外,人们通常会根据天气的冷热程度增加或减少衣服以实现调温调湿的目的,但这样的做法不但麻烦,而且有时很难实现,尤其在休闲、运动领域更为突出。
为此,人们进行了很多研究。如,日本专利文献特开2004-316005中公开了一种有吸湿发热性能的纤维构造物,并具体公开了该纤维构造物是由具有吸放湿性能的素材构成,纤维表面附着有温感刺激性物质,可以增强血液循环,因此,该纤维构造物具有更加优异的保温性和吸湿性,主要用于冬天的保暖性服装等,但无法实现调温调湿冬夏两用的目的。
又如,中国专利文献CN103584385A中公开了一种凉爽保暖两用的服装,并具体公开了由凉爽层与保暖层上下连接构成,凉爽层采用超细仿真丝,保暖层采用超滑仿毛绒,凉爽层和保暖层之间采用棉线缝合在一起,虽然获得了凉爽保暖两用的特性,但由于凉爽层与保暖层是通过棉线连接的,多次洗涤后棉线易断,耐久性有待进一步提高。
又如,中国专利文献CN204994641U中公开了一种吸湿发热抗静电毛衫,并具体公开了面料外层由抗静电锦纶纤维构成,内层由吸湿发热腈纶纤维构成,领口部位由驱蚊再生纤维素纤维构成,纽扣由磁疗石构成,其中,抗静电锦纶纤维中添加有炭黑等导电物质,由于这些纤维原料吸热性强,比较适用于秋冬季节,并不能实现调温调湿冬夏两用的目的。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有调温调湿功能且耐久性优越的针织面料及其用途。
为了实现上述目的,本发明的技术解决方案如下:
本发明的针织面料为包括面A和面B的双面构造,其中,面A的吸湿率差ΔMR A和面B的吸湿率差ΔMR B满足如下关系式,
(ΔMR A+ΔMR B)/2≥0.5,
|ΔMR A-ΔMR B|≥0.1。
本发明的针织面料由于面A和面B之间存在有特定的吸湿率差的关系,因而具有优越的调温调湿作用,无论是在炎热的酷暑,还是在寒冷的冬天都可以穿着使用,而且耐久性极佳,可广泛用于制作内衣、T恤等。
附图说明
图1为本发明实施例1的空气层组织编织图。
图2为本发明实施例15的变化组织编织图。
图3为本发明实施例20的空气层组织编织图。
图4为本发明实施例21的空气层组织编织图。
 具体实施方式
众所周知,纤维材料从气态环境中吸着水分的能力称为吸湿性。吸湿是一个动态的过程,即纤维在不断地吸收水汽的同时,又不断地向外放出水汽。
本发明的针织面料为双面构造,包括面A和面B, 其中,面A的吸湿率差ΔMR A和面B的吸湿率差ΔMR B满足如下关系式,
(ΔMR A+ΔMR B)/2≥0.5,
|ΔMR A-ΔMR B|≥0.1
其中,
ΔMR A=面A在30℃、90%RH时的平衡吸湿率-面A在20℃、65%RH时的平衡吸湿率,
ΔMR B=面B在30℃、90%RH时的平衡吸湿率-面B在20℃、65%RH时的平衡吸湿率。
这里的平衡吸湿率是指当纤维材料在特定的大气条件下,吸、放湿作用达到平衡稳定时的回潮率,也称为平衡回潮率。面料的ΔMR越高,中等强度运动(如快走、跳舞)时服装内的水蒸气压越低,闷热感越小,舒适性越好。
本发明的针织物为双面构造,包括面A和面B。这是考虑到,当面料为双面构造时,两面可以实现不同的ΔMR,随着室内外温差和气压差异的变化,从不同的温湿度环境进入另外一个温湿度环境时,会使衣服内的气候微循环发生变化。
当(ΔMR A+ΔMR B)/2<0.5、|ΔMR A-ΔMR B|<0.1时,面料两面的吸湿性都较差,不能带来调温调湿的作用。因此,本发明中要求(ΔMR A+ΔMR B)/2≥0.5,优选1.0~8.0,更优选1.5~7.0;要求|ΔMR A-ΔMR B|≥0.1,优选0.5~9.0,更优选1.0~5.0。
在炎热的夏季,室外温度高、湿度大;而室内的温度低、湿度小。当人从室内进入室外时,即从低温低湿环境到高温高湿环境时,人体出汗量增加,这时合适的吸湿率差(ΔMR)可以让面料将皮肤周围空气中的水分吸收走,减少闷热和不适感。另外,外界高温使得水分蒸发,一部分汽化热被带走,衣服和人体之间的微气候环境中的温湿度得以保持在较低的范围内,人体感到凉爽。
在寒冷的冬季,室外温度低、湿度低;而室内的温度高、湿度大。当人从室内进入室外时,即从舒适的高温高湿环境到低温低湿环境时,人体内的水分或汗液较少,具有合适的吸湿率差(ΔMR)的纤维吸收微气候环境中的湿气,运动中的水分子被纤维大分子吸附,水分子会将动能转化成热能而释放,即放出热量,从而保持或调节衣服和人体间的微循环环境,使得温度保持甚至上升,实现保温或升温的目的。   
本发明的双面构造没有特别限定,可以是单面组织的双层构造,如单面涤盖棉(或棉盖涤)组织等;也可以是单面组织的多层构造,如全部线圈添纱组织、部分线圈添纱组织等。可以是双面组织的双层构造,如双面罗纹、双面棉毛、双面变化组织等;也可以是双面组织的多层构造,如双面空气层组织(三明治组织或五明治组织)等。如果是双面组织的双层构造时,优选里纱不在表组织中显露的连接方式,比如以集圈的形式进行连接。
未充满系数表征了面料的紧密程度,是指线圈长度(mm)与纱线直径(mm)之间的比值。线圈长度越长,纱线越细,则未充满系数值越大,面料中未被纱线充满的空间越多,面料越是稀松。其中,当未满系数之比a<0.5或 a>2.0时,面料两面的紧密程度差异大,即两面风格差异大,面料的品质有下降的趋势,因此,作为优选,本发明中在一个完全组织及用纱循环内,面A与面B的未充满系数之比a满足如下关系式:2.0≥a≥0.5。
本发明中,对于形成面A和面B的纱线的单丝纤度没有特别限定,优选形成面B的纱线的单丝纤度在2.2dtex以下。当面B作为肌面(靠近皮肤的一面)使用时,合适的单丝纤度有利于面B吸收更多的水分;同时,当纱线的单丝纤度在2.2dtex以下时,纱线手感柔软,面B整体更加平滑,更容易获得较大的接触面积,对于炎热的夏季而言,更加有利于热量的释放和瞬间传导。
本发明中,面料由短纤纱和长丝复丝形成时,短纤纱在面A以及面B上的露出率对面料的保温性和接触冷感有较大的影响。短纤纱的纤维原料可以列举的有羊毛、腈纶、棉、莫代尔、天丝、莱赛尔和粘胶等,还可以列举的有远红外纱线。远红外纱线是通过在纱线中添加远红外粒子或通过涂层等方式获得的,比如远红外聚酯、远红外腈纶等。作为优选,本发明中面A上短纤纱的露出率大于50%,且其纤维原料为羊毛、腈纶和粘胶中的一种或多种。其中,羊毛更优选为防缩羊毛。这里的防缩羊毛是指经过防缩处理的羊毛,即通过化学、生物等方法去除鳞片,或树脂填充包覆法以及二者结合的方法去除羊毛纤维表面的鳞片。当羊毛为防缩羊毛时,面料的光泽感和尺寸稳定性更好。腈纶可以是普通腈纶,也可以是超细腈纶,更优选为超细腈纶。这里的超细腈纶是指单丝纤度在1.1dtex以下的腈纶纤维。当腈纶为超细腈纶时,面料更柔软,品质更优,更适合贴肤穿着使用。本发明中面A上短纤纱的露出率更优选70~100%。当短纤纱在两面上的露出率均超过50%时,考虑到调温调湿性,将短纤纱露出率较大的一面作为面A使用,另一面作为面B使用。
本发明中,面A上的纱线的总纤度没有特别限定,优选30~80英支。当纱线的总纤度低于30英支时,纱线较粗,面料风格粗犷,细腻感有下降的趋势;当纱线的总纤度高于80英支时,纱线较细,纱线强力较低,有可能出现断纱的现象,另外,纱线支数增高,成本也有增加的趋势。
面B上长丝复丝的纤维原料可以列举的有聚酰胺、聚酯、粘胶、天丝、莫代尔、莱赛尔、铜氨纤维、真丝等。作为优选,本发明中面B上长丝复丝的露出率大于50%,且其纤维原料为聚酰胺、聚酯和粘胶中的一种或多种。这里的聚酯纤维可以是普通聚酯纤维(PET),也可以是阳离子染料可染聚酯纤维(CDP),还可以是聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维(PTT)等等。这些纤维原料的断面形状也没有特别限定,可以是圆形断面,也可以是三角形、十字形、多叶形等异型断面,长丝的形态没有特别的限定,可以是FDY、DTY等,优选为FDY。这些纤维原料中更优选导热系数较高的纤维,比如聚酰胺纤维。当面B上长丝复丝的露出率大于50%时,可以赋予面B良好的接触凉感。本发明中面B上长丝复丝的露出率更优选70~100%。当长丝复丝在两面上的露出率均超过50%时,考虑到调温调湿性,将长丝复丝露出率较大的一面作为面B使用,另一面作为面A使用。
本发明中,面B上的纱线的总纤度也没有特别限定,优选33~165dtex, 更优选55~84dtex。当纱线的总纤度超过165dtex时,纱线较粗,面料风格比较粗犷、厚重,有可能会影响水分的蒸发,调温调湿的效果有下降的趋势;而当纱线的总纤度低于33dtex时,纱线较细,强力偏低,在编织时可能会出现断纱的现象,同时,纱线越细,面料薄透,调温调湿效果有下降的趋势。
本发明的调温调湿效果是指将面料从一个固定的温湿度条件进入另一个温湿度条件后,所产生的与周围环境温度差值的能力。具体测试时模拟的条件为:冬季从室内到室外的环境改变时,室内温湿度为20℃×65%RH,室外温湿度为10℃×30%RH;夏季从室内到室外的环境改变时,室内温湿度为20℃×65%RH,室外温湿度为30℃×90%RH。
本发明中,更优选,在A面上短纤纱露出率大于50%、长丝复丝的露出率小于50%,在B面上短纤纱露出率小于50%、长丝复丝的露出率大于50%,这样的话,能够最大程度保证两面的性能差别化,即面A具有优越的保温性,面B具有优越的接触冷感,差别明显。
作为优选,本发明中面A的clo值为0.65以上,面B的qmax值为0.12以上。
在制造本发明面料的过程中,可以根据需要在后整理时选择吸水剂、柔软剂、抗静电剂等进行加工。其中,吸水剂可以是聚酯类树脂、丙烯酸类树脂等。柔软剂可以是有机硅类树脂等。抗静电剂可以是阳离子型、阴离子型、非离子型、复配型等,如烷基磺酸盐类阴离子型抗静电剂、季铵盐类阳离子型抗静电剂等等。
由本发明的针织面料所制得的服装,穿着场景不限,可以一年四季单面穿着,也可以根据季节变化两面交替穿着。
下面结合实施例及比较例对本发明作进一步说明。
本发明所涉及的各参数的测试方法如下:
(1)短纤纱的露出率
准备平整无褶皱的针织面料,剪取大小约20cm×20cm的试样5块。取其中1块试样,确定一个完全组织及用纱循环,拆解纱线并画出该面料的组织图,根据纱线形态区分出短纤纱和长丝复丝,接着根据如下公式计算出该面上短纤纱的露出率:
z=x d/y×100%
其中,x d:短纤纱形成的成圈组织的线圈个数,
y:该面上所有成圈组织的线圈个数;
按照同样的方法,测量并计算出余下4块试样的同一面上短纤纱露出率,取平均值作为本发明的短纤纱露出率。
(2)长丝复丝的露出率
长丝复丝的露出率=100%-z。
(3)面A的吸湿率差ΔMR A以及面B的吸湿率差ΔMR B 
①样品准备
准备平整无褶皱的针织面料,剪取大小约20cm×20cm的试样5块;
②吸湿率差ΔMR 
选取其中1块,确定一个完全组织及用纱循环,并标记其中一面为面A,另一面为面B(可以举例的是,当短纤纱在一面上露出率大于50%、在另一面上露出率小于50%,则短纤纱露出率大于50%的一面作为面A,另一面为面B;当短纤纱在两面上的露出率均超过50%时,则短纤纱露出率较大的一面为面A,另一面为面B;当长丝复丝在两面上的露出率均超过50%时,则长丝复丝露出率较大的一面为面B,另一面为面A);
A、当试样中不存在同时出现在面A和面B的纱线时
a1)分别拆下至少一个完全组织及用纱循环内所有的纱线,并做好标记,将面A的纱线标记为a,将面B的纱线标记为b;
a2)将标记为a的纱线称重(保证纱线重量在1g以上),放入恒温恒湿机中,按60℃×30分钟的条件进行预烘干;
a3)将预烘干后的纱线放入条件为20℃×65%RH恒温恒湿机,进行调湿平衡24小时,称重并记录为W1;
a4)将步骤a3)的纱线放入条件为30℃×90%RH恒温恒湿机,进行调湿平衡24小时,称重并记录为W2;
a5)将步骤a4)的纱线放入条件为105℃的恒温干燥箱,绝干2小时取出,放在干燥器皿内,并在20℃的环境中冷却30分钟,称重并记录为W3;
a6)然后根据以下公式,计算得到面A的ΔMR(%),
ΔMR=MR 2-MR 1 
MR 1=(W1-W3)/W3×100% 
MR 2=(W2-W3)/W3×100% 
其中,
W1:在20℃×65%RH条件下调湿平衡后试验片(除称量瓶重量)的质量(g)
W2:在30℃×90%RH条件下调湿平衡后试验片(除称量瓶重量)的质量(g)
W3:在绝干状态试验片(除称量瓶重量)的质量(g);
a7)按照步骤a2)~a6),测量并计算出余下4块试样中标记为a的纱线的吸湿率差,取平均值作为本发明面A的吸湿率差ΔMR A
a8)按照同样的方法,测量并计算出面B的吸湿率差ΔMR B
B、当试样中存在同时出现在面A和面B的纱线时
将同时出现在面A和面B上的纱线定义为纱线ab,
b1)计算出纱线ab在面A上露出的比例z a
纱线ab在面A上所占比例z a可根据如下公式算得:
z a=x/y×100%
其中,x:在面A上由纱线ab形成的成圈组织的线圈个数,
y:在面A上一个完全组织及用纱循环中成圈组织的线圈总个数;
b2)按b1)的方法,计算出纱线ab在面B上露出的比例z b
b3)将样布裁剪成5cm×5cm(若样品一个完全组织及用纱循环大于5cm,则必须保证一个完整循环),拆下所有纱线,并做好标记。将面A的纱线标记为a,面B的纱线标记为b,同时出现在面A和面B上的纱线标记为纱线ab;
b4)将标记为a的纱线、标记为b的纱线以及标记为ab的纱线按照步骤a2)~a7)进行测试,将测试结果分别记为ΔMR a、ΔMR b、ΔMR ab
b5)根据如下公式分别计算出计算面A、面B的吸湿率差ΔMR A、ΔMR B,其中,
ΔMR A=ΔMR a×(1-z a)+(ΔMR ab×z a
ΔMR B=ΔMR b×(1-z b)+(ΔMR ab×z b)。
(4)调温调湿效果
①取5cm×5cm的试样5块。将试样全部放入干燥箱内预干燥:50℃×1小时,然后放到温湿度为20℃×65%RH的环境内,平衡24小时以上,接着放入10℃×30%RH环境,用温湿度传感器立即记录所有试样的温湿度变化,取平均值作为冬季调温调湿效果的数据;
②取5cm×5cm的试样5块。将试样全部放入干燥箱内预干燥:50℃×1小时,然后放到温湿度为20℃×65%RH的环境内,平衡24小时以上,放入30℃×90%RH后,用温湿度传感器立即记录所有试样的温湿度变化,取平均值作为夏季调温调湿效果的数据。
(5)保温性
参考KatoTech公司的KES-法,KES风格仪机器型号:KES-F7-Ⅱ(热板温度设置为40℃)。
(6)接触冷感
参考KatoTech公司的KES-法,KES风格仪机器型号:KES-F7-Ⅱ(△T=20℃)。
实施例1
选用43英支的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱(混纺比20:80)、110dtex/36f的CDP DTY以及44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY在双面圆编机上以如附图1所示的空气层组织进行编织得到坯布,然后进行前处理(精练剂2g/L)、染色(同浴法:酸性染料/阳离子染料、110℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L)、后整理加工(抗静电剂1g/L、中和酸1g/L),得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
其中,编织时,第1、2路喂入聚酰胺 FDY,第3路喂入CDP DTY,第4路喂入羊毛/腈纶混纺纱,羊毛/腈纶混纺纱和CDP DTY之间的线长比为1.25。
实施例2
将混纺比为20:80的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱替换为混纺比为45:55的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱,羊毛/腈纶混纺纱与CDP DTY之间的线长比调整为1.30,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。  
实施例3
将混纺比为20:80的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱替换为混纺比为60:40的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱,羊毛/腈纶混纺纱与CDP DTY之间的线长比调整为1.35,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例4
将混纺比为20:80的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱替换为混纺比为65:35的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱,羊毛/腈纶混纺纱与CDP DTY之间的线长比调整为1.36,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例5
将43英支的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱替换为43英支的100%羊毛纱,110dtex/36f的CDP DTY 替换为77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY,编织得到坯布,其中,100%羊毛纱与聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为1.00,然后进行前处理(精练剂2g/L)、染色(酸性染料、95℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L)、后整理加工(抗静电剂1g/L、中和酸1g/L),其余同实施例1,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例6
将100%羊毛纱与聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为0.81,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例7
将100%羊毛纱与聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为1.45,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例8
将100%羊毛纱与聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为3.23,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例9
将100%羊毛纱与聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为4.03,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例10
将43英支的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱替换为38英支的腈纶/粘胶混纺纱(混纺比80:20),110dtex/36f的CDP DTY 替换为77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY,其中,腈纶/粘胶混纺纱与77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为1.20,染色(两浴法:活性染料60℃×30min;阳离子染料110℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L)、其余同实施例1,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例11
将混纺比为80:20的腈纶/粘胶混纺纱替换为混纺比为65:35的腈纶/粘胶混纺纱,腈纶/粘胶混纺纱与77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为0.76,其余同实施例10,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。
实施例12
将38英支的腈纶/粘胶混纺纱替换为40英支的粘胶100%短纤纱,77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY 替换为55dtex/36f的CDP DTY,粘胶100%短纤纱与CDP DTY之间的线长比调整为0.63,其余同实施例10,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。   
实施例13
将77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY 替换为84dtex/36f的粘胶长丝FDY,100%羊毛纱与粘胶长丝FDY之间的线长比调整为1.77,染色(仅上染粘胶:活性染料、60℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L),其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。    
实施例14
将43英支100%羊毛纱替换为40英支的纯棉纱,纯棉纱与粘胶长丝FDY之间的线长比调整为1.31,染色(活性染料、60℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L),得到坯布,其余同实施例13,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表1、3。    
实施例15
选用43英支的100%羊毛纱以及55dtex/36f的PET DTY,在双面圆编机上以如附图2所示的变化双面组织进行编织,其中,第1路喂入100%羊毛纱,第2、3路喂入PET DTY,100%羊毛纱和PET DTY之间的线长比调整为2.30,染色条件为:仅上染PET,分散染料、130℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。  
实施例16
将43英支的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱替换为40英支的100%腈纶短纤纱,110dtex/36f的CDP DTY 替换为55dtex/36f的聚酰胺DTY,100%腈纶短纤纱和55dtex/36f的聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为3.18,染色(酸性染料、95℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L),其余同实施例1,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
实施例17
将77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY 替换为77dtex/36f的聚酰胺DTY,100%羊毛纱和77dtex/36f的聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为1.45,在单面圆编机上以涤盖棉组织进行编织得到坯布,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
实施例18
将77dtex/68f的聚酰胺DTY 替换为77dtex/36f的聚乙烯FDY,100%羊毛纱和聚乙烯FDY之间的线长比调整为1.33,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
实施例19
将77dtex/36f的聚酰胺DTY 替换为77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY,其余同实施例17,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
实施例20
    选用43英支的100%腈纶短纤纱、77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY以及44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY以附图3中的组织进行编织,第3、7、11、15、19、23、27、31、32、36、40路喂入77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY,第4、8、12、16、20、24、28、35、39路喂入43英支的羊毛纱,其余路喂入44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY,100%腈纶纱和77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为1.17,其余同实施例16,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
实施例21
选用43英支的100%腈纶短纤纱、77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY以及44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY以附图4中的组织进行编织,第3、7、11、15、19、23、27、31、43、44、47、48、51、52、55、56、59、60、63、64、67、68、71、72、80、84路喂入77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY,第4、8、12、16、20、24、28、32、35、36、39、75、79路喂入43英支的100%腈纶纱短纤纱,其余路喂入44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY,100%腈纶纱和77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为0.69,其余同实施例20,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
实施例22
选用43英支的100%腈纶短纤纱、77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY以及44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY以附图3中的组织进行编织,第27、31路喂入100%腈纶短纤纱,100%腈纶纱和77dtex/24f的聚酰胺DTY之间的线长比调整为2.65,其余同实施例20,得到本发明的针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
采用实施例1-22的针织面料制得衣服。
比较例1
选用羊毛/腈纶混纺纱(混纺比20:80)以及44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY进行编织,编织时,第1、2路喂入聚酰胺 FDY,第3、4路喂入羊毛/腈纶混纺纱,第4路羊毛/腈纶混纺纱和第3路羊毛/腈纶混纺纱之间的线长比为1.00,染色(酸性染料、95℃×30min、染色酸2g/L、匀染剂2g/L),其余同实施例1,得到针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。  
比较例2
将43英支的羊毛/腈纶混纺纱(混纺比20:80)替换为羊毛/腈纶混纺纱(混纺比7:93),羊毛/腈纶混纺纱和CDP DTY之间的线长比为1.21,其余同实施例1,得到针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
比较例3
选用110dtex/36f的CDP DTY以及44dtex/36f的聚酰胺 FDY进行编织,第1、2路喂入聚酰胺 FDY,第3、4路喂入CDP DTY,第4路CDP DTY和第3路CDP DTY之间的线长比调整为1.00,其余同实施例1,得到针织面料,具体参数见表2、4。
表1
表2
表3
表4
根据表1~4,
(1)由实施例4与实施例3可知,同等条件下,两面吸湿率差之和的平均值为1.5、吸湿率差之差的绝对值为2.7的针织面料与两面吸湿率差之和的平均值为1.3、吸湿率差之差的绝对值为2.5的针织面料相比,两者面B的接触冷感相当,但前者的调温调湿性要比后者好,而且面A的保温性也比后者略好。
(2)由实施例6与实施例5可知,同等条件下,两面未充满系数之比为0.5的针织面料与两面未充满系数之比为0.3的针织面料相比,两者的调温效果相当,前者的调湿效果、面A的保温性以及面B的接触冷感都要比后者好。
(3)由实施例8与实施例9可知,同等条件下,两面未充满系数之比为2.0的针织面料与两面未充满系数之比为2.5的针织面料相比,两者的调湿效果相当,前者的调温效果、面A的保温性以及面B的接触冷感都要比后者好。
(4)由实施例13与实施例14可知,同等条件下,面A上羊毛纱露出率为100%的针织面料与面A上纯棉纱露出率为100%的针织面料相比,两者的调湿效果以及面B的接触冷感均相当,前者的调温效果、面A的保温性要比后者好。
(5)由实施例7与实施例18可知,同等条件下,面B上聚酰胺纤维露出率为100%的针织面料与面B上聚乙烯纤维露出率为100%的针织面料相比,前者虽然接触冷感比后者差一点点,但调温调湿效果以及面A的保温性都要比后者好。
(6)由实施例17和实施例19可知,同等条件下,面B上纱线的单丝纤度为2.1dtex的针织面料和面B上纱线的单丝纤度为3.2dtex的针织面料相比,虽然两者的调温效果相当,但是前者的调湿效果和接触冷感都优于后者。
(7)由实施例20和实施例21可知,同等条件下,面A上羊毛纱的露出率为70%的针织面料和面A上羊毛纱的露出率为30%的针织面料相比,两者的接触冷感相当,前者的调温调湿效果以及保温性均高于后者。
(8)由实施例20和实施例22可知,同等条件下,面B上聚酰胺DTY的露出率为80%的针织面料和面B上聚酰胺DTY的露出率为40%的针织面料相比,两者的保温性相当,前者的调温调湿效果以及接触冷感均高于后者。
(9)由比较例1和实施例1可知,同等条件下,两面吸湿率差之差的绝对值为0的针织面料与两面吸湿率差之差的绝对值为0.8的针织面料相比,前者的调温调湿效果很差,而且面B的接触冷感也没有后者好。
(10)由比较例2和实施例1可知,同等条件下,两面吸湿率差之和的平均值为0.2、吸湿率差之差的绝对值为0.2的针织面料与两面吸湿率差之和的平均值为0.5、吸湿率差之差的绝对值为0.8的针织面料相比,前者的调温调湿效果很差。
(11)由比较例3和实施例1可知,同等条件下,两面吸湿率差之和的平均值为0.1、吸湿率差之差的绝对值为0的针织面料与两面吸湿率差之和的平均值为0.5、吸湿率差之差的绝对值为0.8的针织面料相比,前者的调温调湿效果很差,而且面A的保温性也没有后者好。

Claims (6)

  1. 一种针织面料,所述面料为包括面A和面B的双面构造,其特征是:所述面A的吸湿率差ΔMR A和所述面B的吸湿率差ΔMR B满足如下关系式,
    (ΔMR A+ΔMR B)/2≥0.5,
     |ΔMR A-ΔMR B|≥0.1。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述针织面料,其特征是:所述面A与所述面B的未充满系数之比a满足如下关系式,
    2.0≥a≥0.5。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述针织面料,其特征是:形成所述面B的纱线的单丝纤度在2.2dtex以下。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述针织面料,其特征是:所述面A上短纤纱的露出率大于50%,且所述短纤纱的纤维原料为羊毛、腈纶和粘胶中的一种或多种。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述针织面料,其特征是:所述面B上长丝复丝的露出率大于50%,且所述长丝复丝的纤维原料为聚酰胺、聚酯和粘胶中的一种或多种。
  6. 权利要求1~5中任一项所述针织面料在制作衣服中的应用。
PCT/CN2023/076657 2022-02-18 2023-02-17 针织面料及其用途 WO2023155860A1 (zh)

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CN204994641U (zh) * 2015-07-19 2016-01-27 浩沙实业(福建)有限公司 一种吸湿发热抗静电毛衫
CN107227551A (zh) * 2016-03-24 2017-10-03 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 一种双面针织面料
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JP2004036012A (ja) * 2002-07-01 2004-02-05 Toray Ind Inc 吸水性編地
JP2005105441A (ja) * 2003-09-29 2005-04-21 Mitsukawa Kk 多層構造編地
CN204994641U (zh) * 2015-07-19 2016-01-27 浩沙实业(福建)有限公司 一种吸湿发热抗静电毛衫
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