WO2021208410A1 - 一种美白紧肤润肤面霜及制备方法 - Google Patents

一种美白紧肤润肤面霜及制备方法 Download PDF

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WO2021208410A1
WO2021208410A1 PCT/CN2020/126031 CN2020126031W WO2021208410A1 WO 2021208410 A1 WO2021208410 A1 WO 2021208410A1 CN 2020126031 W CN2020126031 W CN 2020126031W WO 2021208410 A1 WO2021208410 A1 WO 2021208410A1
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weight
parts
cream
whitening
firming
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PCT/CN2020/126031
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English (en)
French (fr)
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杨昌敏
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玉环市粢醍化妆品有限公司
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of daily chemicals, in particular to a whitening and firming moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof.
  • the fast-paced lifestyle has caused people's skin to show strong oil secretion, large pores, clogged pores, thickening of keratin, and even acne, acne, and dull skin, which seriously affects the personal facial image.
  • Especially young people need to use skin-protecting creams for a long time to maintain better elasticity of the skin, to regulate the skin, to make the skin metabolism regular, and to maintain the whitening, softness, smoothness and elasticity of the facial skin.
  • facial creams usually add functional additives in order to make skin care and moisturizing effects more obvious.
  • functional additives such as moisturizing factors, hyaluronic acid, ceramide, lanolin, etc., and even creams with salicylic acid.
  • some creams use hormones.
  • face cream must ensure the reasonable absorption of active ingredients on the one hand, and on the other hand, it must be healthy for the skin.
  • the selection of healthy and green skin care additives is particularly important for the long-lasting development of healthy face creams suitable for the skin. In particular, the use of plant extracts has become an inevitable way for the development of healthy face creams.
  • Arbutin is extracted from the leaves of bearberry, which can accelerate the decomposition and excretion of melanin, thereby reducing skin pigmentation, removing stains and freckles, and also has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effects. Mainly used in the preparation of high-end cosmetics.
  • Arbutin is a natural active substance derived from green plants. It is a skin depigmentation component that integrates "green plants, safe and reliable” and "efficient depigmentation”. It can quickly penetrate into the skin without affecting cell proliferation.
  • the present invention proposes a whitening and firming moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof.
  • Long-term use of the cream can effectively inhibit the formation of melanin on the skin, and at the same time have obvious firming and moisturizing effects on the skin, giving the skin a smooth and moisturizing feeling.
  • the present invention proposes a method for preparing whitening and firming moisturizing cream, and its specific technical solutions are as follows:
  • the arbutin described in step (2) is preferably ⁇ -arbutin; arbutin, also known as arbutin, can effectively inhibit the biological tyrosinase activity in the skin, thereby blocking the formation of melanin, and by itself It is directly combined with tyrosinase to accelerate the decomposition and excretion of melanin, thereby reducing skin pigmentation, and has a better whitening function.
  • ⁇ -Arbutin is a hydroquinone substance glycosylated under certain conditions. The glucose molecule in the structure of the molecule and the hydroquinone form an easily broken glycosidic bond. After the glycosidic bond is broken, arbutin can be decomposed to produce Hydroquinone substances. Therefore, the addition amount cannot be too high.
  • the present invention first disperses arbutin and carbomer in glycerin and water to prepare an aqueous phase, and uses hard Fatty acid monoglyceride and stearic acid are oil phase preformed as water-in-oil A cream; further preferably, the carbomer is selected from one of 940 and 941; the weak acid environment of carbomer makes arbutin Exist in a weak acid environment, so that arbutin is stable in creams.
  • step (2) the slow stirring for 0.5-1.0h is to adopt the stirring speed of 30-50rpm, the purpose is to completely dissolve the carbomer into a jelly, and at the same time, arbutin is easy to dissolve and disperse in water when heated.
  • the emulsifier A is preferably polyglycerol ester or polysiloxane alcohol copolymer; the purpose of the emulsifier A is to preferably emulsify the oil phase and form a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the phytosterol in step (3) has good antioxidant properties and high permeability to the skin. It can not only maintain skin surface moisture and promote skin metabolism, but also assist in water-in-oil emulsification, so that the cream has a good effect when applied.
  • the auxiliary spreadability and smoothness are good antioxidant properties and high permeability to the skin.
  • Step (3) The high-speed dispersion is to use a high-speed disperser 800-1200rpm rotating speed to stir and disperse for 3-5min; the homogenization treatment is to use CRS2000 homogenizing emulsifier, homogenizing emulsification treatment at 2500-3000rpm rotating speed, processing time Control in 5-8min.
  • step (4) the temperature is raised to 50-60°C and slowly stirred for 2-4h, using a stirring speed of 30-50rpm, the purpose is to hydrolyze oat protein, pearl hydrolyzate, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol Acrylate cross-linked polymer is completely dispersed in deionized water to form water phase B.
  • Ordinary ground pearl powder has a whitening effect, but it is not easy to absorb.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate is used in the present invention to make the amino acid of the pearl easier to absorb.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate contains a variety of amino acids, trace elements, molecular active peptides, etc., and has the effects of whitening, oil control, and beauty.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate can inhibit the melanin synthesis of melanocytes, thereby exerting a whitening effect.
  • Hydrolyzed oat protein is a kind of oat protein complex, which has an instant firming effect, can make the skin feel instantaneously tight, and also has moisturizing, film-forming, and can give the skin a smooth skin feel.
  • Acrylic (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer not only thickens the water phase, but is also a film-forming agent. It is used in the film formed by the cream to provide water-locking function and has an emollient effect.
  • the emulsifier B is selected from polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxy stearate, the purpose of which is to preferably emulsify the oil phase and form a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • Step (5) The high-speed dispersion is to use a high-speed disperser at 800-1200 rpm to stir and disperse for 3-5 min; the homogenization treatment is to use a CRS2000 homogenizing emulsifier at a speed of 2500-3000 rpm, and the processing time Control in 5-8min.
  • step (6) the flavor can be added or not added according to specific needs, but the addition amount needs to be strictly controlled; the recommended flavors include milk flavor, chamomile flavor, and lily flavor.
  • Step (6) After mixing A cream with B cream and essence, use a test paper to test the pH value. If the acidity is too strong, triethanolamine needs to be added dropwise to adjust the pH value to 6.5-7.0, which is more suitable for the skin.
  • the best viscosity is between 12000-15000 mPa.s at 21°C. If the viscosity is too low, it is necessary to melt white oil and beeswax at a mass ratio of 2:1 as a viscosity regulator, and then gradually add to the material and stir to adjust until the viscosity reaches 12000-15000mPa.s; if the viscosity is too large, squalane Or isooctyl palmitate is used as a viscosity modifier, which is gradually added to the material and stirred for adjustment until the viscosity reaches 12000-15000mPa.s.
  • the present invention further provides a whitening and firming moisturizing cream prepared by the above method.
  • Carbomer and arbutin are dispersed in glycerin to make an aqueous phase, which is pre-emulsified with stearic acid monoglyceride and stearic acid as the oil phase to form a water-in-oil A cream.
  • the stability of the cream is poor when it is whitened. It is only relatively stable in a weak acid environment.
  • the weak acid environment of carbomer makes arbutin exist in the weak acid environment, thus making bears Fruit glycosides are stable in creams.
  • ⁇ -Arbutin can effectively inhibit the activity of biological tyrosinase in the skin, thereby blocking the formation of melanin. By directly combining with tyrosinase, it accelerates the decomposition and excretion of melanin, thereby reducing skin pigmentation. Better whitening function.
  • the hydrolyzed oat protein and pearl hydrolyzate are formed into water-in-oil.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate contains a variety of amino acids, trace elements, molecular active peptides, etc. It has whitening, oil control, and beauty effects, and can inhibit the melanin synthesis of melanocytes. So as to play a whitening effect; the hydrolyzed oat protein has an instant firming effect, which can make the skin feel instantaneously tight, while also moisturizing, film-forming, and can give the skin a smooth skin feel.
  • the stability of the effective substances is better maintained, so that the cream has the functions of whitening, firming and moisturizing.
  • Long-term use of the cream can effectively inhibit the formation of skin melanin. It has obvious firming and moisturizing effects, giving the skin a smooth and moisturizing feeling.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the mixture of cream A and cream B of the present invention; wherein 1-A cream water-in-oil phase; 2-B cream water-in-oil phase.
  • step (3) Heat stearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid, phytosterols, and emulsifier polyglycerol ester to 75°C, stir and disperse for 5 minutes with a high-speed disperser at 1200 rpm; to obtain oil phase A; and then step (2) to obtain Add the water phase A to the oil phase A, homogenize and emulsify in a CRS2000 type homogenizing emulsifier at 3000 rpm for 8 minutes, and reduce to room temperature to obtain A cream;
  • Example 3 The basic physical and chemical properties of the cream obtained in Example 3 were tested, referring to the standard QBT 1857-2013 "Moisturizing Cream", and the physical and chemical performance indicators are shown in Table 1:
  • Test items Test Results Exterior The paste is fine and even Heat resistance Keep at 40°C for 24h, return to room temperature, oil leakage rate is less than 3%, no oil and water separation cold resistance Keep the pool at -8°C for 24h, return to room temperature, no separation, slagging and other abnormalities, consistent with the original sample
  • Example 3 The specific method is as follows:
  • This comparative test did not add hydrolyzed oat protein, and other processes and raw materials used the same technical means as in Example 3. It mainly measures the firming effect of hydrolyzed oat protein.
  • the use effect adopts a 10-point weight evaluation method:
  • each sample bottle contains 10 parts, 40g each; 30 vials in total , Stored for 1 month, and then randomly presented to volunteers for trial, and users are advised to use it once in the morning and evening. After 1 week of use, follow the following evaluation rules to call back the use effect.
  • Test items Judgment criteria use 1 week, 10-point evaluation
  • the cream obtained by the technology of the present invention has better whitening, firming, and moisturizing effects, the comprehensive score reaches 7.7, and it is smooth in use and stable in storage.
  • the stability of the effective substances is better maintained, so that the cream has whitening, firming and moisturizing effects.
  • Long-term use of the cream can effectively inhibit the formation of skin melanin. It has obvious firming and moisturizing effects, giving the skin a smooth and moisturizing feeling.
  • the oxygen sample did not prepare A cream and B cream in advance, but prepared a face cream at one time. The stability of ⁇ -arbutin would be affected, thereby affecting the whitening effect.
  • test sample 2 the skin firming effect of hydrolyzed oat protein was verified. The firming effect without hydrolyzed oat protein is relatively poor.

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Abstract

一种美白紧肤润肤面霜及制备方法。通过将卡波姆、熊果苷分散在甘油制成水相，预先以硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸为油相得到A霜；将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物加入去离子水为水相；以二癸酸酯、橄榄油、聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯为油相形成B霜；由于α-熊果苷用于面霜增白时稳定性较差，通过与酸性的卡波姆被包在油相，卡波姆具有的弱酸环境使熊果苷存在于弱酸环境，从而使熊果苷在面霜中稳定。在B霜中，将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液形成油包水，水解燕麦蛋白具有即时紧致的效果，可以使皮肤产生瞬时紧绷的感觉，同时还兼具保湿、成膜、能够赋予皮肤光滑的肤感。

Description

一种美白紧肤润肤面霜及制备方法 技术领域
本发明涉及日化领域，特别涉及一种美白紧肤润肤面霜及制备方法。
背景技术
快节奏的生活方式使得人们的皮肤呈现油脂分泌旺盛、毛孔粗大，毛孔堵塞，角质增厚紊乱，以至出现粉刺、痘痘，皮肤显得暗沉等问题，严重的影响了个人的面部形象。特别是年轻人，需要长期使用保护皮肤的面霜从而使皮肤保持较佳的弹性，并对皮肤进行调理，使皮肤新陈代谢规律，并保持面部肌肤的美白、柔软、光滑、弹性等。
面霜作为常用的护肤品，为了使护肤、保湿效果更明显，通常加入功能添加剂。如保湿因子、玻尿酸、神经酰胺、羊毛脂等，甚至有加水杨酸的面霜。为了达到快速美白效果，也有一些面霜使用激素。面霜作为长期使用的护肤品，一方面要保证有效成分的合理吸收，另一方面要对皮肤健康。选用健康绿色的护肤添加材料对持久开发适合皮肤的健康面霜尤为重要。特别是使用植物提取物成为健康面霜发展的必然之路。
熊果苷萃取自熊果的叶子，能够加速黑色素的分解与排泄，从而减少皮肤色素沉积，祛除色斑和雀斑，同时还有杀菌、消炎的作用。主要用于高级化妆品的制备。熊果苷是源于绿色植物的天然活性物质，集“绿色植物、安全可靠”和“高效脱色”三者合谐统一于一体的皮肤脱色组份，它能迅速渗入肌肤，在不影响细胞增殖浓度的同时，能有效地抑制皮肤中的酪氨酸酶的活性，阻断黑色素的形成，通过自身与酪氨酶直接结合，加速黑色素的分解与排泄，从而减少皮肤色素沉积，祛除色斑和雀斑，而且对黑色素细胞不产生毒害性、刺激性、致敏性等副作用，同时还有杀菌、消炎的作用。其中α-熊果苷的美白效果更明显，但α-熊果苷在酸性过强、或碱性过强的环境并不稳定，其更适合于弱酸环形稳定存在。较佳的控制α-熊果苷在面霜的弱酸环境，对有效地发挥美白有明显作用。然而现有技术大都是直接在面霜中添加，制约了其美白作用的发挥。
发明内容
为了赋予皮肤更好的保护以及达到美白、紧肤、润肤的效果，本发明提出一种美白紧肤润肤面霜及制备方法。长期使用该面霜，可以有效抑制皮肤黑色素的形成，同时对皮肤具有明显紧致、保湿效果，赋予皮肤光滑的润肤感。
为实现上述目的，本发明采用了如下技术方案：
首先，本发明提出一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其具体技术方案如下：
(1)按重量份称取包括如下原料组分：熊果苷3-5重量份，卡波姆0.2-0.5重量份，甘油3-5重量份，硬脂酸单甘脂1-3重量份，硬脂酸1-3重量份，植物甾醇0.5-1重量份，乳化剂A 0.3-0.5重量份，水解燕麦蛋白5-8重量份，珍珠水解液0.25-0.5重量份，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1-2重量份，二癸酸酯0.5-1重量份，橄榄油2-3重量份，聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯0.5-1重量份，乳化剂B 0.3-0.5重量份，香精0-0.001重量份，水50-60重量份；酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺：适量；粘度调节剂：适量；
(2)将卡波姆、熊果苷分散在甘油，然后加入去离子水20-30重量份，升温至50-60℃，缓慢搅拌2-4h，降至室温得到水相A；
(3)将硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸、植物甾醇、乳化剂A加热至60-75℃，高速分散为油相A；然后将步骤(2)得到的水相A加入油相A，均质处理，降至室温，得到A霜；
(4)将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物加入剩余去离子水，缓慢搅拌0.5-1.0h，得到水相B；
(5)将二癸酸酯、橄榄油、聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯、乳化剂B加热至60-75℃，高速分散为油相B；然后将步骤(4)得到的水相B加入油相A，均质处理，降至室温，得到B霜；
(6)将A霜与B霜、香精搅拌均匀，测试pH值，并利用酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺调整pH值至6.5～7.0；测试粘度，并进一步利用粘度调节剂调节至12000-15000mPa.s，合格后出料，瓶装，得到一种美白紧肤润肤面霜。
步骤(2)中所述熊果苷优选α-熊果苷；熊果苷又名熊果甙，能有效地抑制皮肤中的生物酪氨酸酶活性，从而可以阻断黑色素的形成，通过自身与酪氨酶直接结合，加速黑色素的分解与排泄，从而减少皮肤色素沉积，具有较佳的美白功能。α-熊果苷在一定条件下糖基化的氢醌类物质，分子中结构中的葡萄糖分子与氢醌之间形成易断裂的类糖苷键，类糖苷键断裂后，熊果苷可分解产生氢醌类物质。因此，添加量不能过高。由于α-熊果苷用于面霜增白时稳定性较差，其只有在弱酸环境较为稳定，因此，本发明首先将熊果苷和卡波姆分散在甘油、水中制备水相，并利用硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸为油相预先形成油包水的A霜；进一步优选的，所述卡波姆选用940、941中的一种；卡波姆具有的弱酸环境使熊果苷存在于弱酸环境，从而使熊果苷在面霜中稳定。
步骤(2)所述缓慢搅拌0.5-1.0h，是采用30-50rpm的搅拌转速，目的是使卡波姆完全溶解为胶状物，同时熊果苷在加热时易于溶解分散在水中。
步骤(3)中所述乳化剂A优选聚甘油酯或聚硅氧烷醇共聚物；乳化剂A的目的是较佳的使油相乳化，并形成油包水乳液。
步骤(3)所述植物甾醇具有良好的抗氧性，对皮肤具有很高的渗透性，不但可以保持 皮肤表面水分，促进皮肤新陈代谢，而且可以辅助油包水乳化，使面霜在涂抹时具有良好的辅展性、滑爽性。
步骤(3)所述高速分散是采用高速分散机800-1200rpm转速搅拌分散3-5min；所述均质处理是利用CRS2000型均质乳化机，在2500-3000rpm转速下均质乳化处理，处理时间控制在5-8min。
步骤(4)所述升温至50-60℃，缓慢搅拌2-4h，是采用30-50rpm的搅拌转速，目的是使水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物完全分散在去离子水形成水相B。
普通研磨的珍珠粉具有美白作用，但不易吸收，本发明选用珍珠水解液，让珍珠的氨基酸更容易吸收。珍珠水解液含有多种氨基酸、微量元素、分子活性肽等，具有美白、控油、养颜功效。特别是珍珠水解液可以抑制黑色素细胞的黑色素合成，从而发挥美白功效。
水解燕麦蛋白是一种源自于燕麦蛋白复合物，具有即时紧致的效果，可以使皮肤产生瞬时紧绷的感觉，同时还兼具保湿、成膜、能够赋予皮肤光滑的肤感。
丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物不但使水相稠化，而且也是一种成膜剂，用于面霜形成的膜提供锁水功能，具有润肤效果。
步骤(5)所述乳化剂B选用聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯，的目的是较佳的使油相乳化，并形成油包水乳液。
步骤(5)所述高速分散是采用高速分散机800-1200rpm转速搅拌分散3-5min；所述均质处理是利用CRS2000型均质乳化机，在2500-3000rpm转速下均质乳化处理，处理时间控制在5-8min。
步骤(6)所述香精根据具体需求选择加或者不加，但需要严格控制添加量；推荐选用的香精有牛奶香精、洋甘菊香精、百合香精。
步骤(6)将A霜与B霜、香精混匀后，采用试纸测试pH值，如果酸性过强，需要滴加三乙醇胺，使pH值调整至6.5～7.0，较为适合于皮肤。
在出料前采样，采用旋转粘度仪测试粘度，较佳的粘度是21℃粘度大小在12000-15000mPa.s之间。如果粘度过小，需要将白油与蜂蜡以质量比2∶1熔融作为粘度调节剂，然后逐步加入物料中搅拌进行调节，直至粘度达到12000-15000mPa.s；如果粘度过大，将角鲨烷或棕榈酸异辛酯作为粘度调节剂，逐步加入物料中搅拌进行调节，直至粘度达到12000-15000mPa.s。
本发明进一步提供由上述方法制备得到的一种美白紧肤润肤面霜。通过将卡波姆、熊果苷分散在甘油制成水相，预先以硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸为油相进行乳化处理为油包水的A霜，由于α-熊果苷用于面霜增白时稳定性较差，其只有在弱酸环境较为稳定，通过与酸性 的卡波姆被包在油相，卡波姆具有的弱酸环境使熊果苷存在于弱酸环境，从而使熊果苷在面霜中稳定。α-熊果苷能有效地抑制皮肤中的生物酪氨酸酶活性，从而可以阻断黑色素的形成，通过自身与酪氨酶直接结合，加速黑色素的分解与排泄，从而减少皮肤色素沉积，具有较佳的美白功能。在B霜中，将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液形成油包水，珍珠水解液含有多种氨基酸、微量元素、分子活性肽等，具有美白、控油、养颜功效，可以抑制黑色素细胞的黑色素合成，从而发挥美白功效；水解燕麦蛋白具有即时紧致的效果，可以使皮肤产生瞬时紧绷的感觉，同时还兼具保湿、成膜、能够赋予皮肤光滑的肤感。
本发明通过预先制备A霜、B霜，较佳的保持了有效物的稳定，使得面霜兼具美白、紧肤、润肤功效，长期使用该面霜，可以有效抑制皮肤黑色素的形成，同时对皮肤具有明显紧致、保湿效果，赋予皮肤光滑的润肤感。
附图说明
图1是本发明A霜、B霜混合后的示意图；其中1-A霜油包水相；2-B霜油包水相。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施方式来进一步说明本发明，以下实施例为本发明较佳的和具体的实施方式，但本发明的实施方式并不受下述实施例的限制。
实施例1
(1)按重量份称取包括如下原料组分：α-熊果苷3重量份，941卡波姆0.3重量份，甘油5重量份，硬脂酸单甘脂2重量份，硬脂酸1重量份，植物甾醇0.5重量份，乳化剂聚甘油酯0.3重量份，水解燕麦蛋白5重量份，珍珠水解液0.5重量份，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1重量份，二癸酸酯0.5重量份，橄榄油3重量份，聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯0.5重量份，乳化剂聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯0.3重量份，牛奶香精0.001重量份，水55重量份；酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺：适量；粘度调节剂：适量；
(2)将941卡波姆、α-熊果苷分散在甘油，然后加入去离子水30重量份，升温至60℃，以30rpm的搅拌转速缓慢搅拌2h，降至室温得到水相A；
(3)将硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸、植物甾醇、乳化剂聚甘油酯加热至75℃，采用高速分散机1200rpm转速搅拌分散5min；得到油相A；然后将步骤(2)得到的水相A加入油相A，在CRS2000型均质乳化机以3000rpm转速均质乳化处理8min，降至室温，得到A霜；
(4)将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物加入剩余去离子水，以30rpm的搅拌转速缓慢搅拌0.5h，得到水相B；
(5)将二癸酸酯、橄榄油、聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯、乳化剂聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯加热至60℃，采用高速分散机1200rpm转速搅拌分散5min；的到油相B；然后将步骤(4) 得到的水相B加入油相A，在CRS2000型均质乳化机以3000rpm转速均质乳化处理8min，降至室温，得到B霜；
(6)将A霜与B霜、牛奶香精搅拌均匀，通过试纸测试pH值为6.0，滴加酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺不断搅拌，直至pH值至7.0；然后取样，采用粘度测试仪YD/NDJ-8S测试21℃时的粘度为11000mPa.s，将白油与蜂蜡以质量比2∶1熔融配制作为粘度调节剂，然后逐步加入面霜中搅拌进行调节，直至粘度达到12000mPa.s；出料，瓶装，得到一种美白紧肤润肤面霜。
实施例2
(1)按重量份称取包括如下原料组分：熊果苷5重量份，940卡波姆0.5重量份，甘油3重量份，硬脂酸单甘脂3重量份，硬脂酸3重量份，植物甾醇0.5重量份，乳化剂聚硅氧烷醇共聚物0.5重量份，水解燕麦蛋白8重量份，珍珠水解液0.5重量份，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物2重量份，二癸酸酯1重量份，橄榄油3重量份，聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯1重量份，乳化剂聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯0.4重量份，水50重量份；酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺：适量；粘度调节剂：适量；
(2)将940卡波姆、α-熊果苷分散在甘油，然后加入去离子水30重量份，升温至60℃，以30rpm的搅拌转速缓慢搅拌2h，降至室温得到水相A；
(3)将硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸、植物甾醇、乳化剂聚硅氧烷醇共聚物加热至60℃，采用高速分散机1000rpm转速搅拌分散3min；得到油相A；然后将步骤(2)得到的水相A加入油相A，在CRS2000型均质乳化机以2500rpm转速均质乳化处理5min，降至室温，得到A霜；
(4)将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物加入剩余去离子水，以40rpm的搅拌转速缓慢搅拌1.0h，得到水相B；
(5)将二癸酸酯、橄榄油、聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯、乳化剂聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯加热至60℃，采用高速分散机800rpm转速搅拌分散5min；的到油相B；然后将步骤(4)得到的水相B加入油相A，在CRS2000型均质乳化机以2500rpm转速均质乳化处理8min，降至室温，得到B霜；
(6)将A霜与B霜搅拌均匀，通过试纸测试pH值为6.2，滴加酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺不断搅拌，直至pH值至7.0；然后取样，采用粘度测试仪YD/NDJ-8S测试21℃时的粘度为15400mPa.s，将角鲨烷作为粘度调节剂，然后逐步加入面霜中搅拌进行调节，直至粘度达到14000mPa.s；出料，瓶装，得到一种美白紧肤润肤面霜。
实施例3
(1)按重量份称取包括如下原料组分：熊果苷5重量份，940卡波姆0.3重量份，甘 油4重量份，硬脂酸单甘脂3重量份，硬脂酸3重量份，植物甾醇0.5重量份，乳化剂聚硅氧烷醇共聚物0.5重量份，水解燕麦蛋白6重量份，珍珠水解液0.5重量份，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1重量份，二癸酸酯1重量份，橄榄油2重量份，聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯1重量份，乳化剂聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯0.4重量份，水60重量份；酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺：适量；
(2)将940卡波姆、α-熊果苷分散在甘油，然后加入去离子水30重量份，升温至60℃，以30rpm的搅拌转速缓慢搅拌2h，降至室温得到水相A；
(3)将硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸、植物甾醇、乳化剂聚硅氧烷醇共聚物加热至60℃，采用高速分散机1200rpm转速搅拌分散3min；得到油相A；然后将步骤(2)得到的水相A加入油相A，在CRS2000型均质乳化机以2500rpm转速均质乳化处理5min，降至室温，得到A霜；
(4)将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物加入剩余去离子水，以40rpm的搅拌转速缓慢搅拌1.0h，得到水相B；
(5)将二癸酸酯、橄榄油、聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯、乳化剂聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯加热至60℃，采用高速分散机800rpm转速搅拌分散5min；的到油相B；然后将步骤(4)得到的水相B加入油相A，在CRS2000型均质乳化机以3000rpm转速均质乳化处理8min，降至室温，得到B霜；
(6)将A霜与B霜搅拌均匀，通过试纸测试pH值为6.2，滴加酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺不断搅拌，直至pH值至7.0；然后取样，采用粘度测试仪YD/NDJ-8S测试21℃时的粘度为14600mPa.s，出料，瓶装，得到一种美白紧肤润肤面霜。
面霜理化性质检测：
将实施例3得到的面霜进行基本理化性能检测，参考标准QBT 1857-2013《润肤膏霜》，理化性能指标如表1：
表1：
测试项目 测试结果
外观 膏体细腻均匀
耐热性 40℃保温24h，恢复至室温，渗油率小于3％，无油水分离
耐寒性 -8℃保池24h，恢复至室温，无分离、渣化等异常，与原样品保持一致
对比性试验1
按照常规的制备水相和油相，一次性形成乳霜，各原料用量参考实施例3，具体的方法如下：
(1)按重量份称取包括如下原料组分：熊果苷5重量份，940卡波姆0.3重量份，甘油4重量份，硬脂酸单甘脂3重量份，硬脂酸3重量份，植物甾醇0.5重量份，乳化剂聚硅氧烷醇共聚物0.5重量份，水解燕麦蛋白6重量份，珍珠水解液0.5重量份，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1重量份，二癸酸酯1重量份，橄榄油2重量份，聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯1重量份，乳化剂聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯0.4重量份，水60重量份；酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺：适量；
(2)将940卡波姆、α-熊果苷分散在甘油，然后加入水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，加入去离子水，升温至60℃，以30rpm的搅拌转速缓慢搅拌2h，降至室温得到水相；
(3)将硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸、二癸酸酯、橄榄油、聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯、植物甾醇、乳化剂聚硅氧烷醇共聚物加热至60℃，采用高速分散机1200rpm转速搅拌分散3min；得到油相；然后将步骤(2)得到的水相加入油相，在CRS2000型均质乳化机以3000rpm转速均质乳化处理8min，降至室温，通过试纸测试pH值为6.0，滴加酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺不断搅拌，直至pH值至7.0；出料，瓶装，得到一种美白紧肤润肤面霜。
由于对比性试验没有预先制备A霜、B霜，而是一次性通过水相和油相制备面霜，由于缺少预先油包水处理A霜，α-熊果苷的酸环境并不明显，影响其稳定性，进而影响美白效果。
对比性试验2
该对比性试验没有加入水解燕麦蛋白，其他工艺和原料采用与实施例3相同的技术手段。主要衡量水解燕麦蛋白的紧肤效果。
使用效果采用10分制权重评价方法：
将按照实施例3得到的面霜作为1#样；对比性试验1得到面霜作为2#样；对比性试验2得到的面霜作为3#样；每个样品瓶装10份，每份40g；共30小瓶，存放1个月，然后随机赠予志愿者试用，并建议使用者早晚各使用一次。使用1周后按照如下评价细则电话回访使用效果。
评价细则：
测试项目 评判标准(使用1周，10分制评判) 权重
美白效果 无美白(1-2分)、美白不明显(3-5分)、美白明显(6-10分) 40
紧肤效果 无紧肤(1-2分)、有紧肤但不明显(3-5分)、紧肤舒适(6-10分) 30
润肤效果 无润肤效果(1-2分)、润肤不明显(3-5分)、润肤明显(6-10分) 20
涂抹使用效果 涂抹粘腻(1-2分)、涂抹一般(3-5分)、涂抹爽滑(6-10分) 10
具体使用效果意见回收情况如下：(综合评判值＝各评判分值×对应的权重/权重总和)
1#样试用情况：
Figure PCTCN2020126031-appb-000001
2#样试用情况：
Figure PCTCN2020126031-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2020126031-appb-000003
3#样试用情况：
Figure PCTCN2020126031-appb-000004
通过使用测试，本发明技术得到的面霜具有较佳的美白、紧肤、润肤效果，综合评分达到7.7分，而且使用爽滑，存储稳定。尤其是通过预先制备A霜、B霜，较佳的保持了有效物的稳定，使得面霜兼具美白、紧肤、润肤功效，长期使用该面霜，可以有效抑制皮肤黑色素的形成，同时对皮肤具有明显紧致、保湿效果，赋予皮肤光滑的润肤感。对比测试氧样没有预先制备A霜、B霜，而是一次性制备面霜，α-熊果苷的稳定性会受到影响，从而影响美白 效果。通过对比测试样2，验证了水解燕麦蛋白具有的紧肤效果。没有加水解燕麦蛋白的紧肤效果相对较差。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其具体技术方案如下：
    (1)按重量份称取包括如下原料组分：熊果苷3-5重量份，卡波姆0.2-0.5重量份，甘油3-5重量份，硬脂酸单甘脂1-3重量份，硬脂酸1-3重量份，植物甾醇0.5-1重量份，乳化剂A 0.3-0.5重量份，水解燕麦蛋白5-8重量份，珍珠水解液0.25-0.5重量份，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1-2重量份，二癸酸酯0.5-1重量份，橄榄油2-3重量份，聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯0.5-1重量份，乳化剂B 0.3-0.5重量份，香精0-0.001重量份，水50-60重量份；酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺：适量；粘度调节剂：适量；
    (2)将卡波姆、熊果苷分散在甘油，然后加入去离子水20-30重量份，升温至50-60℃，缓慢搅拌2-4h，降至室温得到水相A；
    (3)将硬脂酸单甘脂、硬脂酸、植物甾醇、乳化剂A加热至60-75℃，高速分散为油相A；然后将步骤(2)得到的水相A加入油相A，均质处理，降至室温，得到A霜；
    (4)将水解燕麦蛋白、珍珠水解液、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物加入剩余去离子水，缓慢搅拌0.5-1.0h，得到水相B；
    (5)将二癸酸酯、橄榄油、聚乙二醇鲸蜡醇酯、乳化剂B加热至60-75℃，高速分散为油相B；然后将步骤(4)得到的水相B加入油相A，均质处理，降至室温，得到B霜；
    (6)将A霜与B霜、香精搅拌均匀，测试pH值，并利用酸碱调节剂三乙醇胺调整pH值至6.5～7.0；测试粘度，并进一步利用粘度调节剂调节至12000-15000mPa.s，合格后出料，瓶装，得到一种美白紧肤润肤面霜。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(2)中所述熊果苷为α-熊果苷；所述卡波姆选用940、941中的一种。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(2)所述缓慢搅拌0.5-1.0h，是采用30-50rpm的搅拌转速。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(3)中所述乳化剂A为聚甘油酯或聚硅氧烷醇共聚物。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(3)所述高速分散是采用高速分散机800-1200rpm转速搅拌分散3-5min；所述均质处理是利用CRS2000型均质乳化机，在2500-3000rpm转速下均质乳化处理，处理时间控制在5-8min。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(4)所述升温至50-60℃，缓慢搅拌2-4h，是采用30-50rpm的搅拌转速。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(5)所述乳化剂B选用聚乙二醇30二聚羟基硬酯酸酯。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(5)所 述高速分散是采用高速分散机800-1200rpm转速搅拌分散3-5min；所述均质处理是利用CRS2000型均质乳化机，在2500-3000rpm转速下均质乳化处理，处理时间控制在5-8min。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述一种美白紧肤润肤面霜的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(6)将A霜与B霜、香精混匀后，在出料前采样，采用旋转粘度仪测试粘度，如果粘度过小，需要将白油与蜂蜡以质量比2∶1熔融作为粘度调节剂，然后逐步加入物料中搅拌进行调节，直至粘度达到12000-15000mPa.s；如果粘度过大，将角鲨烷或棕榈酸异辛酯作为粘度调节剂，逐步加入物料中搅拌进行调节，直至粘度达到12000-15000mPa.s。
  10. 一种美白紧肤润肤面霜，其特征是由权利要求1-9任一项所述的方法制备的到。
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