WO2021122874A1 - Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine à l'aide d'une composition comprenant un sel de carnitine ou un sel à base de carnitine comprenant un anion organique aromatique - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine à l'aide d'une composition comprenant un sel de carnitine ou un sel à base de carnitine comprenant un anion organique aromatique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021122874A1
WO2021122874A1 PCT/EP2020/086613 EP2020086613W WO2021122874A1 WO 2021122874 A1 WO2021122874 A1 WO 2021122874A1 EP 2020086613 W EP2020086613 W EP 2020086613W WO 2021122874 A1 WO2021122874 A1 WO 2021122874A1
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group
hydroxy
formula
chosen
cis
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PCT/EP2020/086613
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English (en)
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Andrew Greaves
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2021122874A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021122874A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising the application of a composition comprising at least one carnitine salt or carnitine-based salt comprising an aromatic organic anion, for caring for and/or repairing keratin fibers.
  • the hair can be damaged and embrittled by external atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, or certain routines, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving, relaxing and repeated washing.
  • the hair may end up damaged and may in the long run become dry, coarse, brittle, dull, split and/or limp.
  • carnitine or a salt thereof such as carnitine tartrate or carnitine lactate
  • carnitine tartrate or carnitine lactate can be used in hair compositions (see notably DE 195 39 859, EP 1 800 654 and EP 2 111 852).
  • certain organic acids can be used in hair compositions (see notably EP 0 978 272).
  • these compounds are not always entirely satisfactory with regard notably to preventing the breakage of the hair, for example during combing.
  • a subject of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising i) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (A) comprising at least one compound of formula (I): in which: R 1 , R 2 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent a (hydroxy)(Ci-C4)alkyl group; R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a (CrC4)alkyl group or a group -C(0)R, in which R is a (CrC3)alkyl group; R 5 represents a hydrogen atom, a (CrC4)alkyl group, an alkali metal or an alkaline- earth metal; An represents an aromatic organic anion chosen from the compounds of formula (II), (III) or (IV) below: in which:
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from hydroxyl, (hydroxy)(Ci-C4)alkyl or (hydroxy)(Ci-C4)alkoxy;
  • R 7 independently represents a group chosen from (hydroxy)(Ci-Cis)alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (hydroxy)(Ci-Cis)alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R'-C(O)- in which R' is a (hydroxy)(Ci-Cis)alkyl group;
  • R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a negative charge, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, preferably a negative charge;
  • R 7 represents a group chosen from (hydroxy)(C5-Ci8)alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (hydroxy)(C5-Cis)alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R'-C(O)- in which R' is a (hydroxy)(C5-Cis)alkyl group; x is a stoichiometric coefficient chosen so as to ensure the electrical neutrality of the compound of formula (I).
  • a subject of the present invention is a composition (A) as defined above.
  • a subject of the present invention is the compounds of formula (l a ) or (l b ) below, and mixtures thereof: in which:
  • a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of at least one compound of formula (I), as defined above, for caring for and/or repairing keratin fibers.
  • a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of at least one composition (A), as defined above, for caring for and/or repairing keratin fibers.
  • keratin fibers means fibers of human or animal origin, such as head hair, bodily hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair.
  • alkyl group means a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based radical.
  • (C x -C y )alkyl group means an alkyl group comprising from x to y carbon atoms, preferably methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, heptyl, pentadecyl, tridecyl or heptadecyl.
  • (hydroxy)(C ⁇ C y )alkyl group means a (C ⁇ C y )alkyl group, at least one of the hydrogen atoms of which is optionally replaced with a hydroxyl (-OH) group.
  • a "(hydroxy)(C ⁇ C y )alkyl group” thus denotes a (C ⁇ C y )alkyl group ora hydroxy(C ⁇ C y )alkyl group, i.e. a (C ⁇ C y )alkyl group of which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced with a hydroxyl (-OH) group.
  • alkoxy group means an alkyl group bonded to an oxygen atom.
  • (C x -C y )alkoxy group means an alkoxy group comprising from x to y carbon atoms.
  • (hydroxy)(C ⁇ C y )alkoxy group means a (C ⁇ C y )alkoxy group, at least one of the hydrogen atoms of which is optionally replaced with a hydroxyl (-OH) group.
  • a "(hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkoxy group” thus denotes a (C x -C y )alkoxy group or a hydroxy(C x -C y )alkoxy group, i.e. a (C ⁇ C y )alkoxy group of which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced with a hydroxyl (-OH) group.
  • a subject of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibers as described above.
  • the treatment process is a process for caring for and/or repairing keratin fibers.
  • the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that the use of carnitine or of a derivative thereof in combination with certain aromatic organic anions bearing a carboxylate, sulfonate or phosphonate group, in the process according to the invention, makes it possible to improve the mechanical strength of keratin fibers, notably by improving the density of bonding between proteins present in the cortex of the fibers, and thus to reduce the breakage thereof, notably during styling or disentangling, such as combing. Moreover, the Applicant has also observed that it was possible to obtain a long-lasting effect notably with satisfactory persistence with respect to shampoo washing.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a composition (A) as described above.
  • Composition (A) comprises at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above.
  • the compound of formula (I) is a carnitine salt or a salt of a derivative thereof.
  • the cationic portion of the compound of formula (I) is carnitine or a derivative thereof and the anionic portion
  • An of the compound of formula (I) is an aromatic organic anion.
  • An represents an aromatic organic anion chosen from the compounds of formula (II), (III) or (IV) below:
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from hydroxyl, (hydroxy)(Ci-C4)alkyl or (hydroxy)(Ci-C4)alkoxy;
  • R 7 independently represents a group chosen from (hydroxy)(Ci-Cis)alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (hydroxy)(Ci-Cis)alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R'-C(O)- in which R' is a (hydroxy)(Ci-Cis)alkyl group;
  • R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a negative charge, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, preferably a negative charge;
  • R 7 represents a group chosen from (hydroxy)(C5-Cis)alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (hydroxy)(C5-Cis)alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R'-C(O)- in which R' is a (hydroxy)(C 5 -Ci 8 )alkyl group.
  • R 7 represents a group chosen from (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R'-C(O)- in which R' is a (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl group.
  • n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 4.
  • R 7 is chosen from: (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R-C(O)- in which R is a (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl group; and
  • R 7 being chosen from: (hydroxy)(Ci-C 4 )alkyl; (hydroxy)(Ci-C 4 )alkoxy; R-C(O)- in which R is a (hydroxy)(Ci-C 4 )alkyl group, preferably from: (CrC 4 )alkyl; (Ci-C 4 )alkoxy; R-C(O)- in which R is a (CrC 4 )alkyl group.
  • n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 4.
  • R 7 is chosen from: (Cs-Ci 8 )alkyl; (C 5 -Cis)alkoxy; R-C(O)- in which R is a (Cs-Ci 8 )alkyl group, preferably from: pentadecyl, R-C(O)- in which R is a heptyl group; and
  • R 7 being chosen from: (CrC 4 )alkyl; (CrC 4 )alkoxy; R-C(O)- in which R is a (CrC 4 )alkyl group.
  • R 8 represents a negative charge.
  • Composition (A) may comprise a mixture of compounds of formula (I) comprising different aromatic organic anions An chosen from the compounds of formula (II), (III) or (IV) as defined above.
  • An is chosen from the compounds of formula (ll a ), (II ), (IV a ), (ll ), (MU) or (IV b ) below:
  • - R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from hydroxyl, (hydroxy)(Ci-C 4 )alkyl or (hydroxy)(Ci-C 4 )alkoxy
  • - R 7 represents a group chosen from (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R'-C(O)- in which R' is a (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl group;
  • R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, a negative charge, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, preferably a negative charge.
  • R 7 represents a group chosen from (Cs-Ci 8 )alkyl optionally interrupted with a CO group; (Cs-Ci 8 )alkoxy optionally interrupted with a CO group; R'-C(O)- in which R' is a (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl group. More preferentially, R 7 represents a group chosen from (C 5 -Cis)alkyl or R'-C(O)- in which R’ is a (hydroxy)(C 5 -Cis)alkyl group.
  • Composition (A) may comprise a mixture of compounds of formula (I) comprising different aromatic organic anions An chosen from the compounds of formula (ll a ), (Ili a ), (IV a ), (Mb), (Nib) or (IVb) as defined above.
  • An may be chosen from the compounds of formula (ll a ), in which R 7 represents a (Cs-Ci 8 )alkyl group, preferably a (Ci 2 -Cis)alkyl group.
  • - R’ represents a (C5-Cis)alkyl group, preferably a (Cs-Cio)alkyl group
  • R 6 is as defined above.
  • R 6 represents a hydroxyl group.
  • An may be chosen from the compounds of formula (ll a ) in which:
  • R 7 represents a (Cs-Ci 8 )alkyl group, preferably a (Ci2-Ci8)alkyl group;
  • R 6 represents a hydroxyl group.
  • An may be chosen from the compounds of formula (ll’ b ) below: in which:
  • - R’ represents a (Cs-Ci 8 )alkyl group, preferably a (Cs-Cio)alkyl group;
  • R 6 represents a hydroxyl group.
  • An is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) as defined above or from the compounds of formula (ll a ) as defined above or from the compounds of formula (M b ) as defined above or from the compounds of formula (ll' b ) as defined above, preferably from the compounds of formula (ll a ) as defined above or from the compounds of formula (M b ) as defined above or from the compounds of formula (ll' b ) as defined above.
  • R 5 represents an alkali metal, it may be sodium.
  • the compound of formula (I) is a carnitine salt.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 represent a methyl group and R 4 and R 5 represent a hydrogen atom.
  • the cationic portion of the compound of formula (I) is in the form of an optical isomer of L (levorotatory) or D (dextrorotatory) configuration, more preferentially of L configuration.
  • the compound of formula (I) may be obtained by mixing a first composition comprising the cationic portion of the compound of formula (I) optionally in the form of a salt and a second composition comprising the anionic portion of the compound of formula (I) optionally in the form of a salt.
  • the mixing may be extemporaneous.
  • the compound of formula (I) may be chosen from the compounds of formula (l a ) or (l b ) below, and mixtures thereof: in which:
  • the compound of formula (I) may be chosen from the compounds of formula (l a ) or (l b ) below, and mixtures thereof: in which:
  • Composition (A) may comprise a mixture of compounds of formula (l a ) having different values of y.
  • Composition (A) may comprise a mixture of compounds of formula (l b ) having different values of z.
  • Composition (A) may comprise a total content of compound(s) of formula (I) ranging from 0.1% to 100%, preferably from 0.5% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% and even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • composition (A) used in the process according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, i.e. a composition which comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with human keratin fibers.
  • Composition (A) may comprise a solvent chosen from water, ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • a solvent chosen from water, ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition (A) may comprise a solvent chosen from water, C2-C4 alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition (A) may comprise a solvent chosen from water, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition (A) may comprise a solvent chosen from water, ethanol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition (A) may advantageously comprise a water/ethanol mixture, preferably a water/ethanol mixture comprising at least 10%, more preferentially at least 20% and even more preferentially at least 30% by weight of ethanol.
  • composition (A) may notably be formulated in the form of a lotion applied to dry keratin fibers, the use of ethanol making it possible to facilitate the wetting of the dry keratin fibers, the drying of the keratin fibers thus treated and also the diffusion of the active agents in the keratin fibers.
  • Composition (A) may also comprise at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, fillers, dyestuffs, nacreous agents, opacifiers, sequestrants, film-forming polymers, cationic, anionic or neutral polymers, associative polymers, plasticizers, silicones, thickeners, oils, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, penetrants, fragrances, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants including panthenol, fillers, dyestuffs, nacreous agents, opacifiers, sequestrants, film-forming polymers, cationic, anionic or neutral polymers, associative polymers, plasticizers, silicones, thickeners, oils, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, penetrants
  • composition (A) may be present in usual amounts, which may readily be determined by a person skilled in the art, and which may range, for each ingredient, from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in composition (A), and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the composition.
  • composition (A) may be in any presentation form conventionally used for hair application.
  • composition (A) may be in the form of a lotion, a cream, a foam, a gel, a spray or a lacquer.
  • Composition (A) may be used by rinse-off or leave-on application.
  • Composition (A) may be in the form of a shampoo, a mask, a conditioning composition or a pre-shampoo. Composition (A) may also be in the form of a composition to be added to or mixed with, before application, a shampoo, a mask or a conditioning composition.
  • composition (A) may be packaged in a pump-action bottle or in an aerosol container, so as to apply composition (A) in vaporized (lacquer) form or in the form of a mousse.
  • composition (A) preferably comprises at least one propellant. pH of composition (A)
  • Composition (A) may have a pH ranging from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 7.
  • the pH may be adjusted using an organic or mineral acid or an organic or mineral base usually used in cosmetics. Additional features regarding the process
  • Composition (A) may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to dry keratin fibers.
  • the bath ratio of composition (A) applied to the keratin fibers may range from 0.1 to 10.
  • bath ratio means the ratio between the total weight of the applied composition (A) and the total weight of keratin fibers to be treated.
  • the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional step following on from step i), chosen from steps ii) to iv) below: ii) a step of placing composition (A) on the keratin fibers, preferably for a time of at least 10 seconds, said leave-on step being optionally performed under a hermetic film such as a curlpaper or a plastic film; iii) a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibers; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.
  • the process may comprise the additional steps ii) and iv) as described above and performed in that order. More preferentially, the process may comprise all of the additional steps ii), iii) and iv) as described above and performed in that order.
  • the leave-on step may have a duration ranging from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.
  • the washing step may be performed, for example, using a shampoo.
  • the temperature of the heating device may range from 45°C to 230°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C, more preferentially from 50°C to 80°C.
  • a hairdryer, a heating hood, an iron or a heating brush may be used, for example, as heating device.
  • the drying step iv) may also be a combination of drying with air or with a heating device at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 80°C, such as a hairdryer or a heating hood, followed by a step of treating with an iron.
  • composition (A) may, for example, comprise a water/ethanol mixture which comprises at least 10%, preferably at least 20% and more preferentially at least 30% by weight of ethanol.
  • a water/ethanol mixture which comprises at least 10%, preferably at least 20% and more preferentially at least 30% by weight of ethanol.
  • the use of such a mixture can notably facilitate the evaporation of the composition.
  • a subject of the present invention is the compounds of formula (l a ) or (l b ) below, and mixtures thereof: in which:
  • a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of at least one compound (I) as described above, for caring for and/or repairing keratin fibers, preferably for preventing the breakage of keratin fibers. Any of the compounds (I) described above may be used for this purpose.
  • a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition (A) as described above, for caring for and/or repairing keratin fibers, preferably for preventing the breakage of keratin fibers.
  • alkaline solubility means the loss of mass of a sample of 100 mg of keratin fibers under the action of a decinormal sodium hydroxide solution for 30 minutes at 65°C.
  • L-Carnitine and 2-hydroxy-6-pentadecylbenzoic acid are dissolved in a water/ethanol mixture in a 25 ml_ three-necked round-bottomed flask, with magnetic stirring.
  • the reaction medium is heated at about 35°C on a water bath for 15 minutes.
  • the solvents are evaporated off on a rotavapor and the product is then dried in a desiccator.
  • the desired compound is obtained in a yield of 88% and a mass of 3.9 g.
  • the NMR analyses confirm the expected structure.
  • the melting point of the compound obtained is 63°C.
  • L-Carnitine 5-n-octanoylsalicylate was prepared according to the procedure below:
  • 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid is dissolved in 20 ml_ of ethanol in a 25 ml_ three-necked round- bottomed flask, with magnetic stirring.
  • L-Carnitine is then added to the reaction medium and the reaction mixture is stirred until dissolution is complete.
  • the solvent is evaporated off under vacuum on a rotavapor.
  • the desired compound is obtained in the form of a wax.
  • the NMR analyses confirm the expected structure. The melting point of the compound obtained is 103°C.
  • the locks are moistened with tap water at 38°C for 10 seconds.
  • the shampoo is applied (0.4 g/g of hair).
  • the locks are massaged for 15 seconds and rinsed thoroughly with water for 20 seconds.
  • the locks are squeezed dry between two fingers, passing the fingers from the roots to the ends twice to remove the excess water. They are combed. They are dried under a hood (60°C, 10 min/g hair).
  • composition 1 , 2 or 3 to be tested is then applied onto one of the three locks with a bath ratio of 0.4 (0.4 g of composition per g of hair).
  • the locks are then massaged with the fingers, making circular movements along the entire length of the lock (five times) and the locks are then covered with kitchen film for 5 minutes.
  • the film is removed and the locks are rinsed with tap water for 30 seconds and then dried under a hood (Magister Professional) at 60°C for 10 minutes/g of hair.
  • the protein denaturing temperature of the three locks onto which compositions 1 , 2 or 3 are applied and also of a control lock are measured by differential scanning calorimetry.
  • the median drop time before breakage is also measured via the Flexabrasion test for the locks treated with composition 1 or 3 and the control lock.
  • the differential scanning calorimetry technique is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying the reinforcement of proteins in the cortex of hair fibers.
  • the principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturing temperature. The higher the protein denaturing temperature, the better the integrity of the proteins of the cortex, which reflects greater resistance to breakage of the fibers (F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993).
  • the denaturing temperature is directly linked to the bonding density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex.
  • the lower the denaturing temperature the lower the bonding density between the proteins: the disulfide bridges break and the cortex is damaged.
  • a difference of 2°C is acknowledged by a person skilled in the art as a significant difference.
  • the apparatus used for performing the measurements is a Mettler Toledo DSC 3+ Star System machine (temperature range: 30°C-250°C; heating ramp of 10°C/minute). The measurement is performed on six fibers of the lock.
  • the Flexabrasion technique is known to those skilled in the art for the breakage of keratin fibers (references: Flexabrasion: A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength, Cosmetics & Toiletries Journal, June 26, 2009, and Hair Breakage in Normal and Weathered Hair: Focus on the Black Patient, Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, Volume 12, Issue 2, December 2007, pages 6-9).
  • the principle of the test is to measure the time taken for hair fibers subjected to a mechanical stress to break (flexure and abrasion).
  • a Flexabrasion machine (Fiberstress model from the company Textechno) is used. A strand of hair is attached to a 20 g weight at one end and the other end is attached to an immobile bar.
  • the strand of hair moves back and forth over a 300 pm stainless steel wire.
  • the movement has an amplitude of 10 mm and a frequency of 0.5 Hz.
  • the detection of breakage is performed by an optical sensor which records the lifetime (drop time before breakage) in seconds, i.e. the time that the hair takes to break.
  • a series of measurements includes 75 hair strands.
  • a difference in drop time of 100 seconds is acknowledged by a person skilled in the art as a significant difference.
  • a higher protein denaturing temperature is observed for the locks treated by means of a process according to the invention (Examples 1 and 2) than for the placebo lock (Example 3) and the control lock (Example 4). This means that the protein network of the cortex has been reinforced and that the protein bonding density is higher. The quality of the hair fiber of the locks treated by means of the process according to the invention is thus improved.
  • Three locks of damaged hair (1 g/20 cm; alkaline solubility of 20) are placed on a laboratory workbench covered with aluminum foil at room temperature (21 °C).
  • Each of the test compositions is then applied onto one of the three locks with a bath ratio of 0.4 (0.4 g of composition per g of hair).
  • the locks are then massaged with the fingers, making circular movements along the entire length of the lock (five times) and the locks are then left to stand for 5 minutes.
  • the locks are then washed.
  • the washing protocol consists in wetting the locks with tap water at 38°C for 10 seconds.
  • DOP shampoo is applied (0.4 g/g of hair).
  • the locks are massaged for 15 seconds and rinsed thoroughly with water for 20 seconds.
  • the locks are squeezed dry between two fingers, passing the fingers from the roots to the ends twice to remove the excess water. They are combed. They are dried under a hood (60°C, 10 min/g hair). These various steps are repeated to have five applications in total on each of the locks.
  • the three locks are then treated with a cosmetic straightening treatment (Mizani Butter Blend Sensitive Scalp), which consists in applying 10 g of the straightening formulation with a brush to each lock, and the locks are then left to stand for 10 minutes.
  • the locks are washed with DOP shampoo.
  • the washing protocol consists in wetting the locks with tap water at 38°C for 10 seconds.
  • DOP shampoo is applied (0.4 g/g of hair).
  • the locks are massaged gently for 15 seconds and rinsed thoroughly with water for 20 seconds. They are dried under a hood (60°C, 10 min/g hair). Test of breakage by repeated combing
  • the three locks are suspended vertically and then combed 30 times successively, passing the comb over the entire length of the lock in a single motion.
  • the fibers that are broken and separated from each of the locks are collected and the amount of collected hair strands is then measured using a precision laboratory balance.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine, comprenant l'application d'une composition comprenant au moins un sel de carnitine ou un sel à base de carnitine comprenant un anion organique aromatique, pour le soin et/ou la réparation de fibres de kératine.
PCT/EP2020/086613 2019-12-20 2020-12-17 Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine à l'aide d'une composition comprenant un sel de carnitine ou un sel à base de carnitine comprenant un anion organique aromatique WO2021122874A1 (fr)

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FRFR1915237 2019-12-20
FR1915237A FR3104970B1 (fr) 2019-12-20 2019-12-20 Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant un sel de carnitine ou de dérivé de carnitine comprenant un anion organique aromatique

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WO2021122874A1 true WO2021122874A1 (fr) 2021-06-24

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Citations (8)

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FR2846237A1 (fr) * 2002-10-29 2004-04-30 Oreal Composition sous forme d'emulsion huile-dans-eau et ses utilisations notamment cosmetiques
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EP1800654A2 (fr) 2005-12-23 2007-06-27 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Réduction des signes de vieillesse des cheveux
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