WO2020171352A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising portulaca oleracea extract and highly pure octadecadienoic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of a Portulaca oleracea extract and octadetadienoic acid. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used in cosmetics without becoming rancid, provides a remarkably high moisturizing sensation, exhibits excellent skin soothing and wrinkle reducing effects, and is superbly spreadable on the skin, compared to conventional Portulaca oleracea extracts.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid

This application claims priority based on Korean Application No. 10-2019-0021250 filed on February 22, 2019, and all contents disclosed in the specification and drawings of the application are incorporated in this application.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid. More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition capable of penetrating into the stratum corneum and exhibiting excellent moisture and skin elasticity.

Skin is largely divided into three layers: epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue in order from the outside, and has the function of protecting from temperature and humidity changes, ultraviolet rays, and other physical and chemical stimuli of the external environment. In particular, the epidermis plays an important role in preventing water evaporation inside the human body. The epidermis is divided into stratum corneum, granule layer, play layer, and basal layer in order from the outside, and the cells in the stratum corneum play a role like bricks, and the intercellular lipids between the keratinocytes act like mortar to form the skin barrier. A high concentration of natural moisturing factor (NMF) is present in the keratinocytes of a healthy person, and it binds with moisture to inhibit moisture from drying out of the skin. However, as in these days, artificial temperature control of cooling/heating according to changes in environment or life pattern, various stresses occurring in social life and skin stress due to environmental pollution, frequent cleansing according to makeup habits, and natural Due to various causes such as skin aging, the moisture in the stratum corneum decreases, the skin becomes dry, the surface becomes rough, and the skin becomes crumbly and looks dull due to loss of gloss, and the need for skin moisturizers is increasing.

Although octadecadienoic acid has previously been introduced and used in cosmetic ingredients, there is a problem that the substance itself is unstable and exists as an oily liquid at room temperature, so it is not suitable for cosmetic formulations due to poor dispersibility in an aqueous cosmetic solution. . Therefore, most of them are sold on the market in the form of capsule pills or functional foods, and even if they are introduced into cosmetics, it is essential to use chemically synthesized surfactants and organic solvents (eg dipropylene glycol) that are controversial to human health, and octadecadienoic acid The content of is also very low situation.

In order to solve this problem, Korean Patent Application Publication No. 10-2009-0055948 has attempted a method of obtaining a powder form by nano-encapsulating octadecadienoic acid in an inorganic carrier and then mixing it into a cosmetic formulation, but nano-encapsulation and powder Since Hwara has to involve a complex process, it is difficult to control the process and it is disadvantageous to be applied to the cosmetic industry in terms of cost.

In addition, when mixing vegetable oil components including octadecadienoic acid with water-phase components, a method of mixing by adding fine powder of crushed plants such as mung beans and aloe has been attempted. It is cumbersome because it must be accompanied by an additional process of, and when applied to the skin, fine powder remains on the skin surface, making it difficult to express clean skin.

Throughout this specification, a number of documents are referenced and citations are indicated. The disclosure contents of the cited documents are incorporated by reference in this specification as a whole, and the level of the technical field to which the present invention belongs and the contents of the present invention are more clearly described.

The present inventors have tried to provide a cosmetic composition manufacturing technology that contains high-purity octadecadienoic acid, does not have layer separation, penetrates into the stratum corneum, and can exhibit excellent moisture and skin elasticity. As a result, high-purity octadecadienoic acid is mixed with a natural purslane extract, and the two substances are completely mixed in a single phase without layer separation without organic solvents and surfactants, making it suitable for cosmetic formulations as well as octadecadienoic acid or By finding that the purslane extract exhibited remarkably superior efficacy than when used alone, the present invention was completed.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the cosmetic composition.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic comprising the cosmetic composition.

Still other objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent by the following detailed description, claims, and drawings.

One aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid having a purity of 70% (w/w) or more.

The scientific name of purslane is Portulaca Oleracea , and it is a one-year weed in the family Purslane. It is also called as five-year-old weeds, Jangmyeongchae, Machichae, and Machihyeon. It grows wild in the garden, and the stem is about 15~30cm high, without hair, and the stem is brownish red, and the branches are split a lot and spread obliquely above the ground. The root is white, but if you sweep it with your hand, it turns red like a main stem. Purslane is mixed with seasoning and is edible or used as a medicinal material. It has a lot of omega 3 fatty acids to suppress the onset of ADHD, autism, stroke, and cardiovascular disease, and it has a very high content of vitamin A, a powerful natural antioxidant, to protect skin and mucous membranes. It is excellent in preventing lung cancer and oral cancer by inhibiting mutant cells, and has been recognized for its gastrointestinal protection effect. In addition, due to the iron and copper content, oxygen supply is facilitated and damaged cells are recovered quickly. Purslane is a plant that grows in all areas of Korea, especially in fields rather than paddy fields, and can be easily cultivated. As a hydrophilic crop, it is vulnerable to pesticides, so you need to be careful about external pollution.

The purslane extract used as a mixed raw material in the present invention is a hydrophilic component, and may be a fermented purslane extract or a water 　 extract of purslane.

Among them, the fermented purslane extract may be an extract obtained by mixing purslane with sugar and fermenting the fermented purslane fermented extract by mixing purslane with sugar; And it may be prepared by a method comprising the step of obtaining only a liquid by filtering the fermented product.

In one embodiment, the purslane extract may be an enzymatic liquid (only a slightly clear liquid with a sediment settling down and floating on the top is used) that has undergone an aging process of 50 to 150 days, preferably about 100 days, and the main ingredient In addition to phosphorus purslane, it may also be prepared by fermenting one or more natural plant ingredients such as dandelion, plum, loofah, bamboo shoots and pine needles with sugar and one or more natural plant ingredients beneficial to other skin.

Purslane extract prepared as described above contains octadecadienoic acid (fatty acid), but the amount is not large (about 35% or less), so high-purity octadecadienoic acid is mixed with purslane extract to be re-inserted from the outside.

The second mixed raw material, octadecadienoic acid, is an unsaturated fatty acid having two double bonds, linoleic acid, cis-9-cis-12-octadecadienoic acid, trans-9-trans-12-octadeca Dienoic acid and cis-9-trans-11-octadecadienoic acid. Colorless, oily liquid, insoluble in water, soluble in organic solvents such as ether and alcohol, and used as a raw material for soft soap. Octadecadienoic acid may be represented by the structural formula C ₁₈ H ₃₂ O ₂ , molecular formula CH ₃ CH ₂ CH = CHCH ₂ CH = CHCH ₂ CH = CH(CH ₂ ) ₇ COOH, and the three-dimensional structure is cis with two double bonds. It may be linoleic acid forming the mold. Octadecadienoic acid is a glyceride and is contained in many vegetable oils such as cottonseed oil and corn oil. It is obtained by repeating purification after removing solid fatty acids from mixed fatty acids in vegetable oils. Most of them are present in dry oil, especially linseed oil contains 35 to 50%. Generally, it is not found in animal oil, but it is present in 0.4 to 13% in fish oil. Pure ones are made by repeating the fractionation and crystallization of fatty acids such as linseed oil using organic solvents such as acetone and using adsorption chromatography. When linoleic acid is brominated, it becomes hexabromide. Oxidation with alkaline permanganic acid results in hexahydroxystearic acid, and hydrogenation can produce stearic acid. Together with linoleic acid, it is an essential fatty acid called vitamin F. Octadecadienoic acid is a colorless oily liquid with a melting point of -12°C and a boiling point of 230°C (16 torr). Since octadecadienoic acid is easily oxidized in air and hardens, it is also called xerophilic acid, and when reduced, it becomes stearic acid.

The octadecadienoic acid used in the composition of the present invention may be a high-purity fatty acid having a purity of 70% (w/w) or more, preferably, a purity of 75%, 80%, 85%, or 90% or more, most preferably 95% purity. You can use the above.

High-purity octadecadienoic acid can be prepared by extraction and purification processes or can be purchased commercially. For example, 95% pure linoleic acid sold by Hefei TNJ Chemical Industry Co., Ltd in China, and 80 purity sold by Alibaba.com. % Or 95% pure linoleic acid, or the brand name Allmax Nutrition CLA 95 can also be purchased and used.

The two raw material mixture of the present invention is 20 to 40% by weight of the purslane extract, preferably 25 to 35% by weight; And 60 to 80% by weight, preferably 65 to 75% by weight of high purity octadecadienoic acid. The most preferable mixing ratio is the ratio of 30% of purslane extract and 70% of octadecadienoic acid, and even if the ratio of purslane extract increases, it does not decompose octadecadienoic acid more quickly, and the ratio of purslane extract 30% is the most stable decomposition of linoleic acid. Confirmed.

Unlike low-purity octadecadienoic acid (approximately 50% or less in purity), which is easy to mix and is relatively stable, high-purity octadecadienoic acid has a property that the substance itself is unstable and has poor dispersibility in aqueous cosmetics. A cosmetic composition containing a large amount of% (w/w) or more high-purity fatty acids, in particular, a cosmetic composition of a hydration formulation has not been provided. The present invention provides for the first time a cosmetic composition comprising a large amount of a high-purity fatty acid having a purity of 70% (w/w) or more in an amount of 60 to 80% by weight. The composition may be a hydrating formulation selected from mist, serum, nutritional lotion, softening lotion, softening water, emulsion, astrigent, toner, skin, lotion, water gel, solution, foam, spray, etc., but is not limited thereto.

In one embodiment, the mixture of the present invention mixes the two raw materials, and it is at a temperature of 20 to 40° C. for 5 days to 10 weeks, preferably at a temperature of 37 to 39° C. (most preferably at a temperature of 38° C.), It may be prepared by aging for 7 days to 4 weeks (most preferably for about 8 days). In order to see the fermentation effect of the purslane enzyme, the temperature should be maintained at 20℃~40℃. If the temperature exceeds 41℃, all microorganisms die, and thus no further fermentation effect is seen. If it is set lower than the most optimal temperature of 38℃ and then mixed, it takes about 4 weeks or more to mix the two mixtures.

In the present invention, by fermenting a mixture of purslane extract and high-purity octadecadienoic acid, various phenomena occurring when harvesting from vegetable raw materials can be changed into ingredients or formulations that can be used in cosmetic materials, and the effect of penetrating the skin during processing It is possible to see a superior effect compared to the existing product by increasing the amount by 1.5 times more than the raw material.

The above mixing has disadvantages of each component, for example, that high purity octadecadienoic acid is easily oxidized in the air, because it is an oily liquid, it is incompatible with water, which is the main ingredient of cosmetics, and layer separation occurs, and due to oiliness, there is a lot of stickiness when applied to the skin. It can solve problems such as poor spreadability and splitting of vegetable extracts into water and sediment.

In a preferred embodiment, the mixture of purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid of the present invention is characterized in that it does not contain organic solvents and surfactants.

The organic solvent includes a petroleum solvent, benzene, toluene, various alcohol solvents, glycols, thinners, halogenated hydrocarbons, ethers, ketone solvents, hydrogen fluoride, and the like, but is not limited thereto.

When exposed to humans for a long period of time, the surfactant may cause skin irritation, decreased immunity, rhinitis, asthma, and atopy.Synthetic surfactants mainly used in cosmetics, especially petrochemical surfactants, easily penetrate the skin and penetrate the heart, liver, and It has been reported to be potentially toxic by staying in the body for 5 days while maintaining a certain level in the lungs and brain.

In the present invention, by fermenting and aging a mixture of purslane extract and high-purity octadecadienoic acid, the problem of layer separation is solved without the use of organic solvents and surfactants, which are controversial as described above, and oxidation is prevented by 99.9%. The stability can be secured at the same time.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic product made of a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid as described above.

The cosmetics are mist, serum, nutrient lotion, softening lotion, softening water, emulsion, astrigent, toner, skin, lotion, cream, foam, makeup base, essence, liquid cleaning agent, bath agent, sunscreen cream, sun oil, suspension, It may be selected from the group consisting of emulsions, pastes, gels, powders, oils, powder foundations, emulsion foundations, wax foundations, patches, spray products, packs, and hair products, but is not limited thereto.

In addition, in addition to the mixture of purslane extract and high-purity octadecadienoic acid, which are the active ingredients of the present invention, the cosmetic products include moisturizers, thickeners, powders, alcohols, natural polymers, synthetic polymers, sugars, antioxidants within the scope not impairing the effects of the present invention. , Buffers, various extracts, stabilizers, preservatives, pigments, or perfumes, etc., are appropriately blended and prepared according to a conventional method.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used in cosmetics without rancidity and penetrates to the stratum corneum more than 1.5 times as compared to the conventional purslane extract, resulting in high moisture, excellent skin soothing effect and wrinkle reduction effect, and excellent application properties.

1 is a photograph of a mixture of purslane extract and octadecadienoic acid prepared in Example 1. When first mixed, the phase is separated into two layers (the upper layer is octadecadienoic acid and the lower layer is purslane extract), but it can be confirmed that the two layers are finally completely mixed.

Figure 2 is a photograph taken when shaking the mixture of purslane extract and octadecadienoic acid prepared in Example 1.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through examples. These examples are for illustrative purposes only, and it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples.

Example

Preparation of cosmetic composition

(1) Example 1

-Preparation of fermented purslane extract (purslane enzyme stock solution)

The cleansed purslane and sugar were put in a jar at a weight ratio of 1:1, and the mouth was sealed with a cloth through which air was passed, so that microorganisms in the air were naturally contaminated. After 2 days, the mixture was stirred until all the sugar on the bottom was dissolved and turned over. When all of the moisture was drained from the stem and the stem emerged, the stem was pressed with a stone to immerse it in the undiluted solution, and the jar was sealed. After aging for 100 days from sealing, the sediment settled below was filtered off, and only the clear liquid floating above was obtained.

-Mixed with octadecadienoic acid

The prepared purslane extract was confirmed to contain octadecadienoic acid, but the amount was not large, so to put it back outside, it was mixed with 95% pure octadecadienoic acid (Hefei TNJ Chemical Industry Co., Ltd). The mixing ratio was such that the weight ratio of purslane to octadecadiene was 3:7.

When the purslane extract and octadecadienoic acid are first mixed, the phase is separated into two layers (the upper layer is octadecadienoic acid and the lower layer is purslane extract), but when mixing while maintaining the temperature of 20℃~40℃, the fermentation effect of purslane enzyme It was confirmed that the layers could finally be thoroughly mixed. When the temperature exceeded 41℃, all the microorganisms were killed and no further fermentation effect was seen. As a result of finding the optimum temperature by raising the temperature from 20℃ to 1℃, the two substances were completely mixed after about 8 days at 38℃ (190-192 hours in total). If it was set lower than 38℃ and mixed, it took about 4 weeks or more for the two materials to be completely mixed. In the end, it was confirmed that the two substances were properly mixed in a cosmetic formulation, and the optimum temperature was 38°C and the time required 8 days.

(2) Example 2

A cosmetic composition was prepared in which the purslane extract and octadecadienoic acid were mixed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the purslane hot water extract was used as the purslane extract. Purslane hot water extract was prepared by heating the cleansed purslane for 1 hour in a pressure cooker at 90° C., compressing, extracting, filtering, and centrifuging the obtained supernatant for 5 minutes at a speed of 4000 rpm to obtain a purslane hot water extract.

(3) Comparative Example 1

Purslane fermented extract (purslane enzyme stock solution) prepared as described above was found to contain about 35% of octadecadienoic acid, although the amount is not large. Accordingly, a fermented purslane extract to which octadecadienoic acid of 95% purity was not added was used as Comparative Example 1.

(4) Comparative Example 2

Octadecadienoic acid itself of 95% purity was used as Comparative Example 2.

Panel test

After preparing a 　 mist by mixing the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 and purified water prepared above, a sensory evaluation was performed for a professional panel of 60 women in their 20s to 50s. After steadily using the mist twice a day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks, the results of moisturizing, wrinkle improvement and skin soothing effects were derived through in-depth interviews. In addition, a serum was prepared using the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2, and the application test was performed by the professional panel, and the results are shown in Table 1 below. The evaluation score was as follows.

7: Very good

6: Good

5 points: slightly better than normal

4 points: Moderate

3 points: a little less than normal

2 points: bad

1: Very poor

	Example 1	Example 2	Comparative Example 1	Comparative Example 2
Moisturizing power	6.9	6.0	4.0	4.7
Eye wrinkle improvement	5.5	5.4	4.1	4.5
Skin soothing effect	6.7	6.1	4.2	3.5
Spreadability	6.8	6.2	5.3	2.7

As a result of the evaluation, the moisturizing power of the mist using the compositions of Examples 1 to 2 was excellent.In particular, in the case of Example 1, it penetrated to the stratum corneum by 1.5 times or more compared to Comparative Example 1 containing only purslane extract, showing high moisture sensation and superior moisturizing power. Confirmed. In addition, as a result of consistent use of the mist containing the compositions of Examples 1 to 2, not only the dry skin was improved a lot, but also the wrinkles around the eyes were slightly lightened, and there was no skin irritation and the moist and itchy skin was also relieved, so that the skin soothing effect was excellent. Confirmed. In the case of the serum containing the compositions of Examples 1 to 2, it was evaluated that makeup was well eaten during makeup after application. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, the moisturizing power was very weak, and in the case of Comparative Example 2, especially in terms of spreadability It was found to be sticky and not good, and phase separation in mist and serum occurred, which was not suitable for the formulation of cosmetics.

Claims (12)

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid having a purity of 70% (w/w) or more.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the mixture comprises 20 to 40% by weight of purslane extract and 60 to 80% by weight of high purity octadecadienoic acid.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the purslane extract is a fermented purslane extract or a water purslane extract.
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture is a fermented mixture of purslane extract and high purity octadecadienoic acid.
5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fermentation mixture is a mixture of 20 to 40% by weight of purslane extract and 60 to 80% by weight of high purity octadecadienoic acid, and it is at a temperature of 20 to 40°C for 5 days to 10 weeks. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that the aged.
6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture does not contain an organic solvent and a surfactant.
7. The method of any one of claims 3 to 6, wherein the fermented purslane extract comprises: fermenting the purslane by mixing it with sugar; And filtering the fermented product to obtain only a liquid.
8. Mixing 20 to 40% by weight of purslane extract and 60 to 80% by weight of high purity octadecadienoic acid having a purity of 70% (w/w) or more; And

   A method for producing a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding clauses, comprising the step of aging for 5 days to 10 weeks at a temperature of 20 to 40°C.
9. Cosmetics comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
10. The cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the cosmetics are mist, serum, nutritional lotion, softening lotion, softening water, emulsion, astrigent, toner, skin, lotion, cream, foam, makeup base, essence, liquid cleaning agent, bathing agent, sunscreen cream , Sun oil, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, powder, oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, patch, spray product, a cosmetic product selected from the group consisting of packs and hair products.
11. A method for soothing skin, moisturizing and improving wrinkles, comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 to a subject.
12. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for skin soothing, moisturizing and wrinkle improvement.

Images