WO2020017760A1 - 각질 박리 증진용 화장료 조성물 - Google Patents
각질 박리 증진용 화장료 조성물 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2020017760A1 WO2020017760A1 PCT/KR2019/006806 KR2019006806W WO2020017760A1 WO 2020017760 A1 WO2020017760 A1 WO 2020017760A1 KR 2019006806 W KR2019006806 W KR 2019006806W WO 2020017760 A1 WO2020017760 A1 WO 2020017760A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- exfoliation
- weight
- keratin
- glycerin
- serine
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for enhancing skin exfoliation.
- the stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin and consists of a lipid layer of lamellae structure containing keratinocytes and ceramides.
- the stratum corneum has a protective effect from external substances and at the same time functions as a protective film that prevents water escape into the interior. Done.
- the normal stratum corneum has a thickness of about 15-20 layers, and the decomposition of the coniode mossom proceeds due to the action of the serine protease that is activated outside the stratum corneum, and eventually undergoes a complete detachment from the skin. This process takes about 15-20 days for normal cells. Even without genetic diseases such as ichthyosis, aging, dryness, acne skin, etc., the stratum corneum is thickened longer than normal, the stratum corneum is thickening, the stratum corneum is thickening.
- keratin stratification is generally caused by factors such as decreased skin moisturizing power, decreased expression or activity of serine protease, ultraviolet rays, and decreased cellular activity.
- methods such as keratin exfoliation through physical scrub preparations, exfoliation by chemical preparations, and physiological cell activity increase are generally used.
- This method of keratin exfoliation artificially removes external keratinocytes and replaces the outermost stratum corneum with new keratinocytes from the inside to solve keratin stratification and solve external problems such as skin stiffness and dullness. There is this.
- Resolving keratin stratification by enhancing keratin exfoliation also has additional effects such as fine wrinkles removal, blemishes, rough skin improvement, etc., and is being used in various products.
- alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) or poly hydroxy acid (PHA) is typically used.
- AHA, BHA, and PHA is inserted into the stratum corneum to release hydrogen ions, weakening the corniodesmosome bond, leading to delamination. Because of the high, inevitably low pH is required. Therefore, low pH causes skin side effects such as itching, itching, and erythema, and research is being conducted to overcome such side effects.
- the present inventors have identified a composition including serine and carnitine that exhibits efficacy over AHA in the same concentration in neutral or weakly acidic conditions according to the prior application patent 10-2017-0165268 according to a previous study, and the stimulation is relatively low It was also confirmed that no appearance was provided as an excellent novel keratin peeling material.
- the problem to be solved by the present invention is to select the composition of the cosmetic so that the accessibility of the exfoliating agent to the keratin binding protein, so that the added exfoliation promoting effect can be fully exhibited, there is no irritation to the cosmetic It is to provide cosmetics.
- the problem to be solved by the present invention is to solve the problem that the keratin exfoliation efficacy is reduced when the serine or carnitine, which has an effect that is superior to the efficacy of the existing keratin exfoliation efficacy raw material at the weak acid-neutral pH, actually applied to cosmetic formulation.
- the problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for enhancing keratin exfoliation, including serine or carnitine, but substantially no moisturizer component having a polyol group or at a certain concentration or less.
- the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for enhancing keratin exfoliation, including a keratin exfoliant, does not include a polyol moisturizer or 10% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition.
- the exfoliating agent of the cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation of the present invention is any one or more of serine and carnitine.
- the polyol moisturizing agent of the cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation of the invention glycerin (Glycerine), dipropylene glycol (Dipropylene glycol), butylene glycol (Butylene glycol), glycerin-26 ( One or more selected from the group consisting of Glycereth-26), methylgluceth-20, and pentyleneglycol.
- the exfoliating agent of the cosmetic composition for enhancing exfoliation of the present invention is included in 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total composition weight.
- the polyol humectant of the cosmetic composition for enhancing keratin exfoliation of the present invention is not included or is included in an amount of 10% by weight or less based on the total composition weight.
- the cosmetic composition for enhancing exfoliation of the invention is pH 5 to 8.
- the accessibility of the exfoliating agent to the exfoliating protein is maintained so that the exfoliation promoting effect can be fully exhibited.
- the cosmetic composition for exfoliation including serine or carnitine, which gives a keratin exfoliation effect that is superior to the efficacy of the conventional efficacy ingredient at low acidity-neutral pH without stimulation, the exfoliation effect of serine or carnitine is maintained without being reduced. It is effective.
- 1 is a result of evaluation of skin exfoliation of porcine skin according to the combination of 5% serine and glycerin.
- Figure 2 is a result of evaluation of skin peeling of porcine skin according to the combination of carnitine 5% and glycerin.
- 3 is a result of evaluation of skin exfoliation of porcine skin according to a combination of serine, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol.
- Figure 4 is a result of evaluation of skin exfoliation of porcine skin according to the combination consisting of more varied concentration of DPG in a serine 5% solution.
- 5 is a result of evaluation of skin exfoliation of porcine skin according to a combination of carnitine and glycerin, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol.
- Figure 8 shows the result of measuring the relative comparison of the keratin exfoliation ability in the combination of carnitine (5%) and glycerin.
- Figure 9 shows the result of measuring the relative comparison value of keratin exfoliation ability in the combination of serine (5%) and glycerin.
- Figure 10 shows the result of measuring the relative comparison value of keratin exfoliation ability in the combination of carnitine (0.5%) and glycerin.
- Figure 11 shows the result of measuring the relative comparison value of keratin exfoliation ability in the combination of serine (0.5%) and glycerin.
- Figure 13 shows the result of TT100% measurement by the combination of serine and glycerin.
- the present invention for achieving the above-described object, and provides a cosmetic composition for enhancing keratin exfoliation, including a keratin exfoliant, a polyol moisturizing agent or no more than 10% by weight relative to the total composition weight.
- the present inventors have attempted to produce a commercially available cosmetics that impart keratin exfoliation enhancement function by including a keratin exfoliant in a cosmetic composition including various additives such as surfactant, perfume, preservative, moisturizer, thickener, antioxidant, etc. While confirming that there is a problem that the efficiency is significantly lowered than the expected ability to enhance the exfoliation according to the concentration, while studying this, the cause of the exfoliation function is exfoliated by a moisturizer component, especially a moisturizer having a polyol group, among various cosmetic additives.
- the present invention provides a cosmetic composition of a composition in which the exfoliating agent, in particular serine or carnitine, can maintain its effect. More specifically, the present invention was intended to provide a cosmetic for serine or carnitine that imparted a keratin exfoliation effect superior to the efficacy of the existing efficacy ingredient at mildly acidic-neutral pH without stimulation.
- a moisturizer having a polyol group in the serine or carnitine such as glycerin (Glycerin), dipropylene glycol (Dipropylene glycol, DPG) and 1,3-butylene glycol (Butylene glycol, BG) was confirmed that the keratin exfoliation effect is sharply reduced when more than a certain concentration of polyol, such as one or more. Accordingly, the present invention provides within the scope that does not substantially include the polyol humectant component in serine or carnitine or significantly reduce its effects.
- the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for enhancing keratin exfoliation that includes a keratin exfoliant and substantially does not include a polyol moisturizer.
- the term "substantially free” refers to up to 2% by weight, preferably up to 1% by weight, more preferably up to 0.5% by weight, more preferably up to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, most preferably no content at all.
- the moisturizer having a polyol group is a raw material which is very widely used in cosmetic compositions as much as purified water, in particular, in the case of keratin exfoliation products to provide a cosmetic composition for enhancing keratin exfoliation including a polyol moisturizing agent in that a moisturizing is required more than usual. Is a problem.
- the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for enhancing skin exfoliation, including a polyol moisturizer, in addition to the exfoliating agent.
- a cosmetic composition for enhancing skin exfoliation including a polyol moisturizer, in addition to the exfoliating agent.
- the composition of the present invention includes the polyol moisturizing agent, it is contained in an amount of more than 0 to 10% by weight, preferably more than 0 to 2% by weight, more preferably more than 0 to 0.5% by weight.
- the moisturizer content is out of the above numerical range, keratin exfoliation effect is significantly reduced, the content range has a critical significance.
- the term "exfoliation” means that keratin accumulated in the stratum corneum of the skin is eliminated or removed from the stratum corneum of the skin. It is a concept that includes both the case of removing from the stratum corneum of the skin only by the treatment of the cosmetic composition without applying a separate force as well as when removed by applying a physical force.
- the exfoliating agent of the cosmetic composition for enhancing exfoliation of the present invention may be any one or more of serine and carnitine.
- the exfoliating agent of the cosmetic composition for enhancing exfoliation of the present invention may be included in 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total composition weight, preferably 0.01 to 17% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 15 wt% may be included.
- the content thereof is less than 0.001% by weight, it may be difficult to obtain the desired effect, and when the content exceeds 20% by weight, the effect of increasing the content may be insignificant.
- the polyol moisturizing agent of the cosmetic composition for enhancing keratin exfoliation of the present invention is glycerin (Glycerine), dipropylene glycol (DiGlycol, DPG), butylene glycol (Butylene Glycol, BG), glycerol Lys-26 (Glycereth-26), methylgluceth-20 (methyl gluceth-20) and pentylene glycol (Pentyleneglycol) may be at least one selected from the group consisting of, specifically glycerin, dipropylene glycol and 1, It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of 3-butylene glycol.
- the polyol humectant of the cosmetic composition for enhancing exfoliation of the present invention may not be included or may be included in an amount of 10% by weight or less based on the total composition weight, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably. 2 wt% or less, more preferably 1 wt% or less, more preferably 0.5 wt% or less, more preferably 0.3 wt% or less, even more preferably 0.1 wt% or less. If their content is more than 10% by weight, it may be difficult to obtain a sufficient keratin exfoliation effect of the intended keratin exfoliant.
- the cosmetic composition for enhancing exfoliation of the present invention may be pH 5 to 8, preferably 5 to 7.5, more preferably 5.5 to 7.
- the cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation of the present invention may be optionally selected in addition to the above components, and optionally further selected according to the formulation or purpose of use of the cosmetic.
- the compositions of each formulation may contain various bases and additives necessary and appropriate for the formulation of the formulation, and preservatives, thickeners, surfactants, silicone polymers, oxidative stabilizers, organics, etc. without departing from the effect thereof. It can be prepared including known compounds such as solvents, antioxidants, emollients, colorants, flavorings and the like.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention was confirmed by the screening method by the skin exfoliation evaluation method and the human test method by DHA staining that shows excellent exfoliation effect even in the formulation containing a moisturizer having a polyol.
- the activity of serine or carnitine in the neutral or weakly acidic pH range of 5-7 was equal to or higher than the effect of gluconolactone (PHA) or lactic acid (AHA) at pH 4 by porcine skin exfoliation assay. This was confirmed by the combination of the concentration of each material of the polyol humectant component.
- the content of the polyol moisturizing agent is 0.1% by weight or more.
- Exfoliation efficacy is drastically reduced, and when it exceeds 10% by weight, the exfoliation efficacy is not left at 0%, which is the capacity of water, which is a negative control, which means that the exfoliation ability does not appear significantly even in human tests.
- the polyol moisturizing agent content is In the case of 10% and 50%, the number of keratin turnover days (TT100) compared to the existing ability did not appear to be significantly different from that of the non-coating 20 days. It was confirmed that the decrease to 17 days, preferably 14 days compared to the day.
- the present invention is substantially free of the polyol humectant component since the keratin exfoliant serine or carnitine is reduced to an insignificant level of activity by the polyol humectant glycerin, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol. It provides within the range which does not significantly reduce the effect.
- the exfoliating composition used in the present invention contains serine or carnitine, and contains substantially no one or more of the polyol moisturizing agents glycerin, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol, or the effect thereof. It means the case selected within the range that does not reduce.
- Combination Keratin exfoliation efficacy material (% by weight) Moisturizer with Polyol Group (% by weight) pH Serine Carnitine glycerin Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG)
- DPG dipropylene Glycol
- 1,3-BG 1,3-butylene glycol
- Non-clinical keratin is difficult due to the conventional clinical evaluation method, which takes a long time, it is difficult to conduct all experiments with various concentrations and pH conditions of various raw materials, and it is difficult to conduct experiments for all cases of the composition combined from each raw material.
- the necessity of peeling evaluation method has arisen.
- the keratin exfoliation evaluation method described in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2014, 28, 415-423 was used.
- the pig skin was biopted and the sample to be tested was added.
- the number of exfoliated keratin was measured with a cell counter, and the sample containing water alone was plotted as a negative control (0%) and 10% gluconolactone pH 4 as a positive control (100%).
- At least one selected from the group consisting of moisturizers glycerin, dipropylene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol having a polyol group in combination with serine or carnitine shows keratin exfoliation efficacy when included in the range of 10% by weight or less. Therefore, it is necessary to use substantially no such moisturizer component or to use a specific concentration or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, to exhibit a significant exfoliation effect.
- the exfoliation ability of serine and carnitine is influenced by the concentration of glycerol, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol, which have polyol groups. It has been found that when there is no practical use or the use below 10%, the consumer can feel the effect.
- Example 2 DHA Evaluation method of keratin turnover enhancement by staining method
- DHA staining for the evaluation of keratin turnover rates was performed on 10 healthy males between 20 and 40 years of age using the method described in Dermatology 1993, 186, 133-137.
- the color of the lower arm and upper arm of the test subject was measured with a chroma meter, and about 0.4 ml of dihydroxy acetone (DHA) at a concentration of 10% was added to 1.5 ⁇ 1.5 cm gauze. Buried and attached to the inside of the upper and lower arms for 8 hours. After 48 hours, the color of the brown colored area by DHA was measured to compare the color difference with that before the sample application.
- DHA dihydroxy acetone
- TT100% decreases about 6 days from 20 days to 14 days without coating, but it can be seen that there is no significant change in the concentration of glycerin 10% or 50% compared to the no coating group.
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Priority Applications (6)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202411370951.8A CN119157765A (zh) | 2018-07-17 | 2019-06-05 | 组合物在制造化妆品中的应用以及增强角质剥离的方法 |
| US17/260,724 US20210267865A1 (en) | 2018-07-17 | 2019-06-05 | Cosmetic composition for increasing skin exfoliation |
| EP19838725.0A EP3824872B1 (en) | 2018-07-17 | 2019-06-05 | Cosmetic composition for increasing skin exfoliation |
| JP2021502856A JP7558606B2 (ja) | 2018-07-17 | 2019-06-05 | 角質剥離増進用の化粧料組成物 |
| CN201980047555.2A CN112423730B (zh) | 2018-07-17 | 2019-06-05 | 角质剥离增强用化妆料组合物 |
| JP2024071804A JP7726595B2 (ja) | 2018-07-17 | 2024-04-25 | 角質剥離増進用の化粧料組成物 |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| KR10-2018-0083069 | 2018-07-17 | ||
| KR20180083069 | 2018-07-17 | ||
| KR10-2019-0063704 | 2019-05-30 | ||
| KR1020190063704A KR102253135B1 (ko) | 2018-07-17 | 2019-05-30 | 각질 박리 증진용 화장료 조성물 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2020017760A1 true WO2020017760A1 (ko) | 2020-01-23 |
Family
ID=69165088
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/KR2019/006806 Ceased WO2020017760A1 (ko) | 2018-07-17 | 2019-06-05 | 각질 박리 증진용 화장료 조성물 |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP3824872B1 (https=) |
| JP (1) | JP7726595B2 (https=) |
| CN (1) | CN119157765A (https=) |
| WO (1) | WO2020017760A1 (https=) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP4306100A4 (en) * | 2021-03-08 | 2025-03-19 | LG Household & Health Care Ltd. | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING CARNITINE SALICYLATE AS ACTIVE INGREDIENT |
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| KR20050113669A (ko) * | 2003-03-28 | 2005-12-02 | 론자 인코포레이티드 | 피부 외용 l-카르니틴 조성물 |
| KR100678865B1 (ko) * | 2005-08-30 | 2007-02-05 | 주식회사 코리아나화장품 | 상지 추출물 및 카르니틴을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부미백용 화장료 조성물 |
| KR20100061881A (ko) * | 2008-12-01 | 2010-06-10 | 주식회사 더페이스샵 | 각질 박리 촉진용 화장료 조성물 |
| KR101165848B1 (ko) * | 2005-08-18 | 2012-07-13 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | 효소 및 아미노산을 함유하는 피부 화장료 조성물 |
| KR20180083069A (ko) | 2017-01-12 | 2018-07-20 | 고려대학교 산학협력단 | 가상현실을 이용한 안과 검사 시스템 및 방법 |
| KR20190063704A (ko) | 2017-11-30 | 2019-06-10 | 롯데케미칼 주식회사 | 1,4-사이클로헥산디메탄올 제조 방법 |
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| DE852949T1 (de) * | 1997-03-31 | 1998-11-19 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Verwendung von Alpha-Aminosäuren zur Förderung des desmosomalen Abbaues oder der Abschuppung der Hornschicht |
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| JP2000063255A (ja) * | 1998-08-12 | 2000-02-29 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 皮膚外用剤 |
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| KR102771004B1 (ko) * | 2018-10-17 | 2025-02-21 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 피부 각질 박리 촉진용 화장료 조성물 |
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2019
- 2019-06-05 CN CN202411370951.8A patent/CN119157765A/zh active Pending
- 2019-06-05 EP EP19838725.0A patent/EP3824872B1/en active Active
- 2019-06-05 WO PCT/KR2019/006806 patent/WO2020017760A1/ko not_active Ceased
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2024
- 2024-04-25 JP JP2024071804A patent/JP7726595B2/ja active Active
Patent Citations (7)
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| EP3824872B1 (en) | 2024-07-03 |
| EP3824872A4 (en) | 2022-04-27 |
| JP7726595B2 (ja) | 2025-08-20 |
| EP3824872A1 (en) | 2021-05-26 |
| CN119157765A (zh) | 2024-12-20 |
| JP2024096233A (ja) | 2024-07-12 |
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