WO2020000433A1 - Composition cosmétique, procédé et utilisation de celle-ci - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique, procédé et utilisation de celle-ci Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020000433A1
WO2020000433A1 PCT/CN2018/093836 CN2018093836W WO2020000433A1 WO 2020000433 A1 WO2020000433 A1 WO 2020000433A1 CN 2018093836 W CN2018093836 W CN 2018093836W WO 2020000433 A1 WO2020000433 A1 WO 2020000433A1
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group
alkyl
weight
chosen
hydrogen atom
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PCT/CN2018/093836
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English (en)
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Lily Yang
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/CN2018/093836 priority Critical patent/WO2020000433A1/fr
Priority to KR1020207028221A priority patent/KR20210029139A/ko
Priority to CN201880095204.4A priority patent/CN112888485A/zh
Priority to JP2020549799A priority patent/JP7301867B2/ja
Publication of WO2020000433A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020000433A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising one or more cationic polymers, one or more anionic direct dyes and at least dimethyl sulfone and/or at least ethyl hydroxypyrone.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least a step of applying onto said keratin fibres of a composition according to the invention.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • Direct coloring or semi-permanent coloring involves bringing color through a colored molecule that adsorbs on the surface of the hair or penetrates the hair.
  • the method conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and dyestuff molecules having an affinity for the said fibers, to leave the fibers in contact with the dye molecules and then to rinse the fibers.
  • this technology leads to chromatic colorations.
  • These dyeing hair compositions certainly have a good coloring power but the cosmetic properties conferred by these still have to be improved, especially when they are applied to sensitized hair, that is to say hair which is generally damaged or weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.
  • external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments
  • conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
  • sensitized blond hair has been found to become dull and yellowish over time, especially at the tips of the hair.
  • these hair coloring compositions do not necessarily give complete satisfaction and can still be improved, especially concerning the selectivity from the root to the tip of hair, and the deposition of direct dyes on keratinous fibers.
  • the hair compositions of the prior art do not generally give rise to satisfaction with regard to the qualities of use (easy spreading and distribution of the composition, easy to rinse) , or in terms of remanence to different external agents (for examples shampoos, light, pollution) .
  • compositions with good dyeing properties which are also able to dye with a low selectivity from the root to the tip of keratin fibers, a good color uptake and a good intensity, to condition the keratin fibers and to confer improved cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, after one or more applications, without charge or weighting of the keratin fibers, while maintaining good qualities of use (ease of spreading of the composition on hair, easy to rinse) .
  • composition comprising :
  • composition according to the invention makes it possible to achieve the desired properties, inter alia in terms of integrity, quality and cosmeticity of the keratin fibres, while at the same time obtaining dyeing of keratin fibres of good and long-lasting quality.
  • the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a good dyeing with low selectivity, especially the tips of blond hair are shiny, not dull and of a beautiful shade similar to that of the root.
  • composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a hair dyeing with a good color uptake and a good intensity.
  • composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a good conditioning of the keratin fibers without charge or weighting of the hair, while maintaining good qualities of use (ease of spreading of the composition on hair, easy to rinse) .
  • the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers.
  • cationic polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, which are preferably non-silicon polymer.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from any of those already known per se for styling the hair, namely, especially, those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
  • the preferred cationic polymers that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic polymers preferably have a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 10 5 , preferably greater than 10 6 and more preferably of between 10 6 and 10 8 .
  • cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made more particularly of polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
  • polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type that may be used in the composition according to the present invention are especially those described in French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
  • R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
  • R 5 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • R 6 , R 7 and R 8 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
  • X - denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide, and better still a chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyltri (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo-or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50%by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name Polyquaternium-37) , for example the polymer sold under the name Cosmedia Ultragel 300 by the company Cognis; or as a dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester; these dispersions are sold under the names SC 95 and SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name Polyquaternium-37)
  • the polymer sold under the name Cosmedia Ultragel 300 by the company Cognis
  • these dispersions are sold under the names SC 95 and SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • Such polymers are especially described in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
  • polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine.
  • These polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide.
  • Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.
  • the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5 : 1 and 1.8 : 1.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl-diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 10 and R 11 independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C 1 -C 4 ) amidoalkyl group, or R 10 and R 11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl
  • Y - is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R 10 and R 11 independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group COOR 17 D or CONHR 17 D where R 17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group,
  • a 1 and B 1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • X - denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • a 1 , R 13 and R 15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring.
  • a 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
  • B 1 may also denote a group (CH 2 ) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2 ) p -,
  • n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
  • x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization
  • X - is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers have a number-average molecular mass generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
  • Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
  • Use may more particularly be made of polymers that are formed from repeating units corresponding to formula (XV) :
  • R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • R 22 , R 23 , R 24 and R 25 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group,
  • - t and u which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34
  • X - denotes an anion such as a halide
  • - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR) . 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • a cationic cellulose copolymer that may especially be mentioned is Polyquaternium-4, which is a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • associative celluloses such as alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized with C 8 -C 30 fatty chains, such as the product Quatrisoft LM sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name Polyquaternium
  • Softcat Polymer such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company Amerchol/Dow chemical of INCI name Polyquaternium-67.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt such as 2, 3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride are used, for example.
  • Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon.
  • Their molecular mass may vary, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may be made especially of:
  • - protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the polypeptide chain bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the polypeptide chain, the said ammonium groups comprising at least one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • quaternary ammonium groups comprise C 10 -C 18 alkyl groups
  • quaternary ammonium groups comprise at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to the formula (XVII) :
  • X - is an anion of an organic or mineral acid
  • A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates
  • R 26 denotes a lipophilic group comprising up to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 27 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Hydrotriticum WQ or QM referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein
  • Hydrotriticum QL Hydrotriticum QL
  • Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein or else Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.
  • these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol%to 100 mol%of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol%of units corresponding to formula (B) , preferentially from 10 mol%to 100 mol%of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol%of units corresponding to formula (B) .
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide.
  • This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 and Lupamin 9010.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families (1) , (2) , (7) and (10) mentioned above; more preferably, from the polymers of families (1) and (10) mentioned above, and even more preferably the polymers of family (1) mentioned above.
  • the cationic polymer (s) is (are) chosen from the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyltri (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylammonium salts, cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-10, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from polyquaternium-37.
  • the cationic polymer (s) in the composition according to the invention represent (s) from 0.01 to 5%by weight; more preferably from 0.05 to 3%by weight; even more preferably from 0.1 to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes.
  • anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances.
  • the term “anionic direct dyes” is understood to mean any direct dye comprising, in its structure, at least one CO 2 R or SO 3 R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or from an amine or an ammonium ion.
  • the anionic dyes can be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthra-quinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
  • R 7 , R 8 , R 9 , R 10 , R' 7 , R' 8 , R' 9 and R' 10 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • R" Representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an aryl, (di) (alkyl) amino or aryl (alkyl) amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
  • aryl (alkyl) amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + and iv) alkoxy with M + as defined above;
  • Ar-N N-, with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or phenylamino groups;
  • ⁇ W represents a sigma ⁇ bond, an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical i) –NR-, with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C (R a ) (R b ) -, with R a and R b , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or then R a and R b form, together with the carbon atom which carries them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably, W represents a sulphur atom or R a and R b together form a cyclohexyl;
  • formulae (a-II) and (a-II') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical (O) CO - -M + on one of the A, A', B, B'or C rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (a-II) of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow;
  • dyes of formula (a-II') of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38.
  • R 11 , R 12 and R 13 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl or - (O) 2 S (O - ) M + group, with M + as defined above;
  • R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C (O) O - M + group, with M + as defined above;
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom
  • R 16 represents an oxo group, in which case R' 16 is absent, or then R 15 with R 16 together form a double bond;
  • R 17 and R 18 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
  • R' 16 , R' 19 and R' 20 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • R 21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group
  • R a and R b which are identical or different, are as defined above; preferably, R a represents a hydrogen atom and R b represents an aryl group;
  • ⁇ Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group
  • ⁇ represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
  • formulae (a-III) and (a-III') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + on either of the D or E rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (a-III) of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (a-III') , of: Acid Yellow 17.
  • R 22 , R 23 , R 24 , R 25 , R 26 and R 27 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • aryloxy or arylthio preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , with M + as defined above;
  • alkyl amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , with M + as defined above;
  • ⁇ Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR 28 R 29 group with R 28 and R 29 , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • - aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl, such as methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , with M + as defined above; iii) R°-C (X) -X'-, R°-X'-C (X) -or R°-X'-C (X) -X"-, with R°, X, X'and X"as defined above; preferably, R° represents an alkyl group;
  • ⁇ Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR' 28 R' 29 with R' 28 and R' 29 , which are identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R 28 and R 29 as defined above;
  • formulae (a-IV) and (a-IV') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (a-IV) of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet N° 2;
  • dyes of formula (a-IV') of: Acid Black 48.
  • R 30 , R 31 and R 32 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
  • heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino
  • R 30 , R 31 and R 32 represent a hydrogen atom
  • R c and R d which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • ⁇ W is as defined above; W particularly represents an –NH–group;
  • ALK represents a divalent, linear or branched, C 1 -C 6 alkylene group; particularly, ALK represents a –CH 2 -CH 2 -group;
  • ⁇ n has the value 1 or 2;
  • ⁇ p represents an integer of between 1 and 5 inclusive
  • ⁇ q represents an integer of between 1 and 4 inclusive
  • ⁇ u has the value 0 or 1;
  • J represents a nitro or nitroso group, particularly a nitro group
  • J represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical –S (O) m –with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably, J represents an –SO 2 –radical;
  • ⁇ M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • ⁇ which is present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more R 30 groups as defined above;
  • formulae (a-V) and (a-V') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (a-V) of: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (V') , of: Acid Yellow 1, sodium salt of 2, 4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulphonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, 2- (4'-N, N- (2"-hydroxyethyl) amino-2'-nitro) anilineethanesulphonic acid or 4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) -3-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, EXT D&C yellow 7 ;
  • R 33 , R 34 , R 35 and R 36 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl group and benzyl group optionally substituted by an (O) m S (O - ) -M + group, with M + and m as defined above;
  • R 37 , R 38 , R 39 , R 40 , R 41 , R 42 , R 43 and R 44 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • R 41 with R 42 or R 42 with R 43 or R 43 with R 44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I'optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di) (alkyl) amino; vii) R°-C (X) -X'-; viii) R°-X'-C (X) -; ix) R°-X'-C (X) -X"-; with M + , R°, X, X'and X"as defined above;
  • R 37 to R 40 represent a hydrogen atom and R 41 to R 44 , which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + group; and, when R 43 with R 44 together form a benzo group, it is preferably substituted by a (O) 2 S (O - ) -group;
  • At least one of the G, H, I or I'rings comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - ; preferably sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (a-VI) of: Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3 ; Acid green 5 ; Acid Green 50.
  • R 45 , R 46 , R 47 and R 48 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom
  • R 49 , R 50 , R 51 and R 52 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • R 53 R 54 , R 55 and R 48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NR e group with R e as defined above; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ L represents an alkoxide O - M + ; a thioalcoholate S - M + or an NR f group, with R f representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M + as defined above; M + is particularly sodium or potassium;
  • ⁇ L' represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an ammonium group: N + R f R g , with R f and R g , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group; L'particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl or (O) m S (O - ) -M + groups, with m and M + as defined above;
  • Q and Q' which are identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulphur atom; particularly, Q and Q'represent an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ M + is as defined above.
  • dyes of formula (a-VII) of: Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Violet 9.
  • R 53 , R 54 , R 55 , R 56 , R 57 , R 58 , R 59 and R 60 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NR e group with R e as defined above; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
  • R i and R h which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • the formula (a-VIII) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • R 61 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 62 , R 63 and R 64 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + group, with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • R 61 with R 62 or R 61 with R 64 together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + groups, with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • formula (a-IX) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formulae (a-II) to (a-VII) of use in the invention are chosen from:
  • the anionic dyes which are more particularly preferred are the dyes denoted in the Colour Index under the code C.I. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1, 2-dihydroxy-9, 10-anthraquinone-3-sulphonic acid) , C.I. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2- [ (9, 10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9, 10-dioxo-1-anthracenyl) amino] -5-methylbenzenesulphonic acid) , C.I. 15510 (monosodium salt of 4- [ (2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl) azo] benzene-sulphonic acid) , C.I.
  • Use may also be made of compounds corresponding to the mesomeric or tautomeric forms of the structures (a-II) to (a-IX) .
  • the anionic direct dye (s) is/are chosen from the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (a-II) , the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (a-III) , the triarylmethane dyes of formula (a-VI) , their mesomeric forms, their tautomeric forms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic direct dyes are chosen from a mixture of diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (a-II) , pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (a-III) , and triarylmethane dyes of formula (a-VI) .
  • the composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen from Acid Blue 9 (C.I. 42090, disodium salt of N-ethyl-N- [4- [ [4- [ethyl [ (3-sulphophenyl) methyl] amino] phenyl] - (2-sulphophenyl) -methylene] -2, 5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene] -3-sulphobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, internal salt) , Acid Red 33 (C.I.
  • composition comprises at least Acid Blue 9 (C.I.
  • the anionic direct dye (s) in the composition according to the invention represent (s) from 0.001 to 20%by weight; preferably from 0.005 to 10%by weight; more preferably from 0.01 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (a-II) , at least one pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (a-III) , and at least one triarylmethane dyes of formula (a-VI)
  • the total content of anionic direct dyes in the composition according to the invention represents from 0.001 to 20%by weight; more preferably from 0.005 to 10%by weight; even more preferably from 0.01 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of anionic direct dyes in the composition according to the invention represents from 0.001 to 20%by weight; more preferably from 0.005 to 10%by weight; even more preferably from 0.01 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the content of cationic polymer (s) to the content of the anionic direct dye (s) , between 0.01 and 20, more preferably inclusively between 0.5 and 15; even more preferably inclusively between 1 and 12; even better inclusively between 1.5 and 10.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the content of cationic polymer (s) to the total content of diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (a-II) , pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (a-III) and triarylmethane dyes of formula (a-VI) , between 0.01 and 20, more preferably inclusively between 0.5 and 15; even more preferably inclusively between 1 and 12; even better inclusively between 1.5 and 10.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the content of cationic polymer (s) to the total content of Acid Blue 9 (C.I. 42090) , Acid Red 33 (C.I. 17200) and Acid Yellow 23 (C.I. 19140) , between 0.01 and 20, more preferably inclusively between 0.5 and 15; even more preferably inclusively between 1 and 12; even better inclusively between 1.5 and 10.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the content of polyquaternium-37 to the total content of Acid Blue 9 (C.I. 42090) , Acid Red 33 (C.I. 17200) and Acid Yellow 23 (C.I. 19140) , between 0.01 and 20, more preferably inclusively between 0.5 and 15; even more preferably inclusively between 1 and 12; even better inclusively between 1.5 and 10.
  • the composition comprises at least dimethyl sulfone and/or at least ethyl hydroxypyrone.
  • the ethyl hydroxypyrone can also be named 2-ethyl-3-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one or ethyl maltol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least dimethyl sulfone and at least ethyl hydroxypyrone.
  • the total content of dimethyl sulfone and/or ethyl hydroxypyrone represents from 0,001 to 20%by weight; more preferably from 0,005 to 10%by weight; even more preferably from 0, 01 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of dimethyl sulfone and ethyl hydroxypyrone represents from 0,001 to 20%by weight; more preferably from 0,005 to 10%by weight; even more preferably from 0,01 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the total content of dimethyl sulfone and/or ethyl hydroxypyrone to the content of the anionic direct dye (s) , between 0.01 and 10, more preferably inclusively between 0.1 and 10; even more preferably inclusively between 1 and 10; even better inclusively between 1 and 6.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the total content of dimethyl sulfone and ethyl hydroxypyrone to the content of the anionic direct dye (s) , between 0.01 and 10, more preferably inclusively between 0.1 and 10; even more preferably inclusively between 1 and 10; even better inclusively between 1 and 6.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the total content of dimethyl sulfone and/or ethyl hydroxypyrone to the total content of diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (a-II) , pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (a-III) and triarylmethane dyes of formula (a-VI) , between 0.01 and 10, more preferably inclusively between 0.1 and 10; even more preferably inclusively between 1 and 10; even better inclusively between 1 and 6.
  • the composition according to the invention presents a weight ratio of the total content of dimethyl sulfone and ethyl hydroxypyrone to the total content of Acid Blue 9 (C.I. 42090) , Acid Red 33 (C.I. 17200) and Acid Yellow 23 (C.I. 19140) , between 0.01 and 10, even more preferably inclusively between 0.1 and 10; better inclusively between 1 and 10; even better inclusively between 1 and 6.
  • the composition may optionally further comprise one or more silicones.
  • the silicones can be chosen in particular from non-amino silicones, aminosilicones and mixtures thereof.
  • sicone is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-) , optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially C 1 -C 10 alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is C 1 -C 10 , and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
  • non-amino silicone denotes any silicone not containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • non-amino silicones which can be used in the composition according to the invention, are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) , Academic Press.
  • the silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd &Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
  • silicones are non-volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 /sat 25°C and preferably 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,
  • dimethiconol emulsions for example with anionic surfactants, preferably having a low particle size such as less than 500nm, preferably less than 200 nm.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 5 ⁇ 10 -2 m 2 /sat 25°C.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15%of gum SE 30 and 85%of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R 2 SiO 2/2 , R 3 SiO 1/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
  • organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C 12 ) alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200, or in particular the silicone of INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone such as the product XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID sold by Dow Corning.
  • silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used.
  • These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-412, 704, ep-a-412, 707, ep-a-640, 105 and WO95/00578, ep-a-582, 152 and WO93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
  • These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
  • Such polymers are, for example, copolymers, which may be obtained by radical polymerization from a monomer mixture comprising:
  • V is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
  • grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl (methyl) acrylate type and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) on which are grafted, via a connecting chain of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxane
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxane
  • the non-amino silicones which can be used in the present invention preferably have a viscosity equals to 60 000 cst at 25°C and shear rate 1s -1 .
  • the viscosity may be measured at 25°C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with cone-plan geometry.
  • the silicones used in the composition of the invention may also be chosen from amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • Amino silicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear, and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity ranging from 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 /sat 25°C, for example, from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • x'and y' are independently integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;
  • G independently designates a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or a C1-C8 alkyl group, for example methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group, for example methoxy,
  • a and a'independently denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;
  • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1;
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1, 999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • R'independently denotes a monovalent group having formula -C q H 2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
  • Q denotes a linear or branched C r H 2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4;
  • a - represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • a group of amino silicone corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone” having formula (C) :
  • n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 independently represent a hydroxy or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy group.
  • the alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and more particularly equals 0.3: 1.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
  • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • R 1 and R 2 independently represent a hydroxy or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the groups R 1 or R 2 denotes an alkoxy group.
  • the alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1 and preferably from 1: 0.9 to 1: 1 and more particularly equals 1: 0.95.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
  • silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E) .
  • a product containing amino silicone having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652.
  • a product containing amino silicone having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones ranges preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
  • a preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone sold under the tradename MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
  • a silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning.
  • R 5 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group, for example methyl;
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18 , for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • Q - is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate) ;
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
  • s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • R 7 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
  • R 6 independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18 , for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy group linked to the Si via a SiC bond;
  • R 8 independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group or a -R 6 -NHCOR 7 group;
  • X - is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate) ;
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group;
  • R 5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxy group
  • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
  • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
  • x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;
  • Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicone of type (AB) n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
  • Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formula:
  • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
  • b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between from 5 and 30;
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000;
  • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
  • R independently represents a divalent linear or branched C 2 -C 12 hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R independently denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (OH) CH 2 -group; preferentially R independently denotes a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (OH) CH 2 -group;
  • R'independently represent a divalent linear or branched C 2 -C 12 hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R'denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (OH) CH 2 -group; preferentially R'denotes -CH (CH 3 ) -CH 2 -.
  • the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol%of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
  • the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30%solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
  • R, R'and R"independently represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxy group
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5,000 and 500,000 approximately;
  • x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2,000 and especially from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
  • R 1 and R 2 independently preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched.
  • R 1 and R 2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
  • the silicone is of formula (K) with:
  • x ranging from 10 to 2,000 and especially from 100 to 1,000;
  • A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent groups: CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -; and
  • R1 and R2 independently being linear, saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
  • a preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.
  • aminosilicones of the present disclosure may also be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end or on side chains, for example aminopropyl end or side groups, for instance those of formula (A’) , (B’) , or (C’) :
  • n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 55,000.
  • aminosilicone (A’) mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.
  • n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.
  • silicone (B’) mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.
  • n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 3,000.
  • silicone (C’) mention may be made of those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
  • the amino silicone according to the present invention is amodimethicone such as the amodimethicone sold under the name KF 8020 from the supplier Shin Etsu, or the tradename SILSOFT 253 from the supplier MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.
  • Another preferred aminosilicone is an amodimethicone of formula (F) sold under the tradename MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
  • the amino silicone according to the present invention is chosen from bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive) .
  • aminopropyl dimethicone for example, aminopropyl dimethicone sold under the name KF-8015 from Shin Etsu.
  • the silicone (s) are chosen from the amino silicones as described previously.
  • the total content of silicone (s) represent (s) from 0.01 to 15%by weight; better from 0.05 to 10%by weight; even better from 0.1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of amino silicone (s) represent (s) from 0.01 to 15%by weight; better from 0.05 to 10%by weight; even better from 0.1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises one or more silicones; more preferably chosen from the amodimethicones of formula (F) such as described previously, the polydimethylsiloxane gums such as described previously, the cationic emulsions of polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of silicone (s) represent (s) from 0.01 to 15%by weight; better from 0.05 to 10%by weight; even better from 0.1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may optionally further comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
  • cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C 12 -C 22 alkyl chain.
  • fatty amines mention may be made of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • R 8 to R 11 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R 8 to R 11 comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
  • X - represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl-or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1 -C 30 alkyl, C 1 -C 30 alkoxy, polyoxy (C 2 -C 6 ) alkylene, C 1 -C 30 alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C 1 -C 30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X - is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfates, and (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl-or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium salt sold under the name 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds.
  • R 12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 14 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • X - is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl-or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R 12 and R 13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R 14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R 15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • R 16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms
  • R 17 is chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an (R 16a ) (R 17a ) (R 18a ) N- (CH 2 ) 3 group
  • R 16a , R 17a , R 18a , R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X - is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89) , and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75) ,
  • R 22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
  • R 23 is chosen from:
  • R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups
  • R 25 is chosen from:
  • R 29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X - is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion
  • the alkyl groups R 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is an R 27 hydrocarbon-based group, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is an R 29 hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X - is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • alkyl sulfate more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
  • the anion X - is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • x and y are equal to 1;
  • z is equal to 0 or 1;
  • r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R 23 is chosen from:
  • R 25 is chosen from:
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C 10 -C 30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names by the company Henkel, by the company Stepan, by the company Ceca or WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, provided by Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
  • the cationic surfactants are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) and mixtures thereof.
  • cationic surfactants are chosen from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of cationic surfactant (s) represent (s) from 0.1 to 10%by weight; more preferably from 0.5 to 8%by weight; even better from 1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactant (s) ; more preferably the said cationic surfactant (s) is/are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof; even better the total content of cationic surfactant (s) represent (s) from 0.1 to 10%by weight; better from 0.5 to 8%by weight; even better from 1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of cationic surfactant (s) represent (s) from 0.1 to 10%by weight; better from 0.5 to 8%by weight; even
  • the composition may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances.
  • the fatty substance (s) optionally present in the composition are non-silicone (not including a silicon atom) .
  • fatty substance is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) , that is to say with a solubility of less than 5%and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the fatty substances that can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain a carboxylic acid function COOH.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon atoms and hydrogen of mineral or vegetable origin or synthetic.
  • hydrocarbons are chosen from:
  • hexane undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal or synthetic mineral origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the brand by NOF Corporation, the squalane.
  • the hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from linear or branched, optionally cyclic C 6 -C 16 alkanes.
  • fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is preferably liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) .
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
  • saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.
  • the unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
  • the unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol, and undecylenic alcohol.
  • Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred.
  • fatty ester is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and /or a fatty alcohol.
  • the esters are preferably the esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic C 1 -C 26 mono-or polyacids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic C 1 -C 26 mono-or polyalcohols, the total number of the carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl and isopropyl palmitates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate
  • isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars and of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, preferably of C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugars are understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their alkylated derivatives, such as than methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
  • esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, preferably of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.
  • mono-and di-esters and especially mono-or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used.
  • oils or synthetic triglycerides used in the composition of the invention as fatty esters, there may be mentioned for example:
  • oils of vegetable or synthetic origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, oils of sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, olive, rapeseed, copra, wheat, sweet almond, apricot, safflower,nadooulier nut, camellina, tamanu, babassu and pracaxi, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.
  • esters according to the invention it will be possible to use fatty esters derived from monoalcohols, in particular myristate or isopropyl palmitate, or natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di-or triacids with glycerol, especially vegetable oils.
  • monoalcohols in particular myristate or isopropyl palmitate
  • natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di-or triacids with glycerol especially vegetable oils.
  • the fatty ethers are chosen from fdialkylethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • the fatty substance (s) is (are) chosen from fatty alcohols and fatty esters as described previously, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of fatty substance (s) represent (s) from 0.5 to 25%by weight; better from 1 to 15%by weight; even better from 4 to 12%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises one or more fatty substance (s) ; more preferably the said fatty substance (s) is/are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and mixtures thereof; even better the total content of fatty substance (s) represent (s) from 0.5 to 25%by weight; better from 1 to 15%by weight; even better from 4 to 12%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • cationic polymers chosen from the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyltri (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylammonium salts, cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, and mixtures thereof;
  • one or more anionic direct dyes chosen from the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (a-II) , the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (a-III) , the triarylmethane dyes of formula (a-VI) , their mesomeric forms, their tautomeric forms, and mixtures thereof ;
  • the cationic polymer (s) is/are chosen from the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyltri (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylammonium salts.
  • the anionic direct dye (s) is/are chosen from Acid Blue 9 (C.I. 42090, disodium salt of N-ethyl-N- [4- [ [4- [ethyl [ (3-sulphophenyl) methyl] amino] phenyl] - (2-sulphophenyl) -methylene] -2, 5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene] -3-sulphobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, internal salt) , Acid Red 33 (C.I. 17200, disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo) -2, 7-naphthalenedisulphonic acid) , Acid Yellow 23 (C.I.
  • Acid Blue 9 C.I. 42090, disodium salt of N-ethyl-N- [4- [ [4- [ethyl [ (3-sulphophenyl) methyl] amino] phenyl] - (2-sulphophenyl)
  • the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) and mixtures thereof; more preferably the said cationic surfactant (s) is/are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) and mixtures thereof more preferably the said cationic surfactant (s) is/are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammoni
  • the composition comprises at least one silicone; more preferably the silicone (s) is/are chosen from amino silicones.
  • the composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium that can be used in the compositions of the invention may comprise water, one or more organic solvents, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention is aqueous.
  • the content of water may vary from 5 to 98%by weight, more preferably from 15%by weight to 95%by weight, even more preferably from 25 to 90%by weight, and better still from 30 to 85%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • organic solvents use may especially be made of those which are liquid at 25°C, especially 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa, especially water-soluble, such as the C 1 -C 7 alcohols, and in particular the aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols of C 1 -C 7 , C 3 -C 7 polyols and ethers of C 3 -C 7 polyols, which can therefore be used alone or mixed with water.
  • the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the pH of the composition is between 1.5 and 11, more preferably between 2 and 7, even more preferably between 2.5 and 6.5, better still between 3 and 4.5.
  • the pH of these compositions can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents.
  • alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, are ammonia, alkanolamines or mineral or organic hydroxides.
  • acidifying agents mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain cosmetics additives, such as thickening agents, preserving agents, perfumes, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric polymers, pearlescent agents.
  • cosmetics additives such as thickening agents, preserving agents, perfumes, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric polymers, pearlescent agents.
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a lotion, or a milk.
  • composition can be done on wet or dry hair, in rinsed or not rinsed mode.
  • the subject-matter of the invention is also a method for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least a step of applying onto said keratin fibres of a composition according to the invention as described previously.
  • the method according to the invention is a method for improving yellowish and color evenness of said keratin fibers.
  • a step of rinsing the said keratin fibers is carried out after the step (s) of applying onto said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention.
  • a step of drying the keratin fibers may be provided in the method according to the invention, in particular by means of a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating helmet; the heating means being able to heat at a temperature of from 150 °C to 230°C, preferably from 200°C to 220°C.
  • a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating helmet
  • the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously, for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the composition according to the invention as described previously is used for improving yellowish and color evenness of said keratin fibers.
  • compositions containing the ingredients hereunder were prepared, with all amounts expressed by percentages by weight of active matter with regard to the total weight of each composition.
  • Composition A (Invention) :
  • Composition B (Comparative) :
  • composition A and B were applied, respectively to a 1 gram lock of asian bleached hair sensitized (SA 20) .
  • the locks were gently massaged from the root to the tip about 6 times between two fingers for 15 seconds.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs polymères cationiques, un ou plusieurs colorants directs anioniques et au moins du sulfone de diméthyle et/ou au moins de l'hydroxypyrone d'éthyle, et un procédé de traitement de fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, comprenant au moins une étape d'application sur lesdites fibres kératiniques de ladite composition, et l'utilisation de ladite composition pour traiter des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux.
PCT/CN2018/093836 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 Composition cosmétique, procédé et utilisation de celle-ci WO2020000433A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/093836 WO2020000433A1 (fr) 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 Composition cosmétique, procédé et utilisation de celle-ci
KR1020207028221A KR20210029139A (ko) 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 화장용 조성물, 그 방법 및 용도
CN201880095204.4A CN112888485A (zh) 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 美容组合物、方法及其用途
JP2020549799A JP7301867B2 (ja) 2018-06-29 2018-06-29 カチオン性ポリマー、アニオン性直接染料、ジメチルスルホン及びエチルヒドロキシピロンを含む化粧用組成物、その方法並びに使用

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EP1498107A2 (fr) * 2003-07-16 2005-01-19 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un polymère conducteur et au moins un colorant direct et procédé la mettant en oeuvre
EP2022480A1 (fr) * 2007-08-07 2009-02-11 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de conditionnement des fibres kératiniques
WO2016093189A1 (fr) * 2014-12-09 2016-06-16 花王株式会社 Composition de coloration capillaire
WO2018115791A1 (fr) * 2016-12-22 2018-06-28 L'oreal Procédé de coloration capillaire à partir de colorants acides comprenant un prétraitement mettant en œuvre un polymère cationique

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JPH078778B2 (ja) * 1990-04-10 1995-02-01 ホーユー株式会社 染毛剤
JPH11199448A (ja) * 1997-12-27 1999-07-27 Lion Corp 毛髪化粧料
JP2001220331A (ja) * 1999-12-03 2001-08-14 L'oreal Sa 非イオン性化合物を含有するケラチン繊維の染色用組成物
DE10101946A1 (de) * 2001-01-17 2002-08-01 Goldwell Gmbh Haarfärbemittel
JP2004323389A (ja) * 2003-04-23 2004-11-18 Hoyu Co Ltd 毛髪脱色剤組成物及び染毛剤組成物
JP4081687B2 (ja) * 2004-10-12 2008-04-30 ライオン株式会社 毛髪化粧料及び毛髪化粧料の安定化方法
JP4573690B2 (ja) * 2005-04-11 2010-11-04 日本精化株式会社 化粧料用油剤又は皮膚外用剤用油剤、並びに化粧料又は皮膚外用剤
JP5483841B2 (ja) * 2008-08-01 2014-05-07 三菱鉛筆株式会社 染毛料組成物及びそれを用いた染毛料組成物塗布具
JP5400354B2 (ja) * 2008-10-31 2014-01-29 ホーユー株式会社 染毛料組成物
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JP6410336B2 (ja) * 2014-02-17 2018-10-24 花王株式会社 脱色又は染毛剤組成物
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EP1498107A2 (fr) * 2003-07-16 2005-01-19 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un polymère conducteur et au moins un colorant direct et procédé la mettant en oeuvre
EP2022480A1 (fr) * 2007-08-07 2009-02-11 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de conditionnement des fibres kératiniques
WO2016093189A1 (fr) * 2014-12-09 2016-06-16 花王株式会社 Composition de coloration capillaire
WO2018115791A1 (fr) * 2016-12-22 2018-06-28 L'oreal Procédé de coloration capillaire à partir de colorants acides comprenant un prétraitement mettant en œuvre un polymère cationique

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JP2021535891A (ja) 2021-12-23

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