Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
  • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
  • D01F2/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of cellulose or cellulose derivatives; Manufacture thereof
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
  • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
  • D06N3/0002—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
  • D06N3/0009—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using knitted fabrics
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
  • D06N3/0002—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
  • D06N3/004—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using flocked webs or pile fabrics upon which a resin is applied; Teasing, raising web before resin application
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
  • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
  • D06P3/6025—Natural or regenerated cellulose using vat or sulfur dyes
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N2201/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads or yarns
  • D06N2201/04—Vegetal fibres
  • D06N2201/042—Cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N2209/00—Properties of the materials
  • D06N2209/10—Properties of the materials having mechanical properties
  • D06N2209/105—Resistant to abrasion, scratch
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N2209/00—Properties of the materials
  • D06N2209/16—Properties of the materials having other properties
  • D06N2209/1685—Wear resistance
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06N2211/00—Specially adapted uses
  • D06N2211/10—Clothing
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
  • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/14—Dyeability
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
  • D10B2403/01—Surface features
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

• the invention relates to knitted fabrics comprising at least one yarn which consists of or contains continuous filaments.
• a fabric In a knit fabric, a fabric is formed by at least one yarn which is intermeshed in loops. This is in contrast to a woven fabric where two distinct yarns, a warp and a weft yarn are interwoven.
• Continuous filament yarns are used in the textile industry to produce fabrics with a distinct character compared to fabrics produced from yarns made using staple fiber.
• a continuous filament yarn is one in which all of the fibers (technically: filaments) are continuous throughout any length of the yarn.
• a continuous filament yam will commonly consist of 20 to 200 or more individual fibers which are all parallel to each other and the axis of the yarn when produced.
• the yarn is produced by extruding a solution or melt of a polymer or a polymer derivative and then winding the yarn produced onto a bobbin or reel or by forming a cake by centrifugal winding. The yarn may be twisted or intermingled to alter its characteristics.
• Synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns are common.
• nylon, polyester and polypropylene continuous filament yarns are used in a wide variety of fabrics. They are produced by melt spinning a molten polymer through a spinneret with a number of holes corresponding to the number of fibers required in the yarn produced. After the molten polymer has started to solidify, the yarn may be drawn to orient the polymer molecules and improve the properties of the yam.
• Continuous filament yarns can also be spun from cellulose derivatives such as cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate by dry spinning.
• the polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through a spinneret.
• the solvent evaporates quickly after extrusion causing the polymer to precipitate in the form of a yarn.
• the newly produced yam may be drawn to orient the polymer molecules.
• Continuous filament yarns can be produced from cellulose using the viscose process.
• Cellulose is converted to cellulose xanthate by reaction with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulphide and then dissolved in a sodium hydroxide solution.
• the cellulose solution commonly called viscose, is extruded through a spinneret into an acid bath.
• the sodium hydroxide is neutralized causing the cellulose to precipitate.
• the cellulose xanthate is converted back to cellulose by reaction with the acid.
• the newly formed fiber is drawn to orient the cellulose molecules, washed to remove reactants from the fiber and then dried and wound onto a bobbin.
• the wet yarn was collected into a cake using a centrifugal winder - a Topham Box. The cake of yarn was then dried in an oven before being wound onto a bobbin.
• Continuous filament cellulose yarns are also produced using the cupro process.
• Cellulose is dissolved in a solution of cuprammonium hydroxide.
• the resulting solution is extruded into a water bath where the cuprammonium hydroxide is diluted and the cellulose precipitates.
• the resulting yarn is washed, dried and wound onto a bobbin.
• Cellulosic continuous filament yarn produced by either the viscose or the cupro process can be made into fabrics by knitting. Applications for knitted continuous filament cellulosic fabrics include lingerie, underwear, hosiery and ladies blouses and tops.
• Knitted fabrics made from continuous filament cellulose yarns can have a high luster. They are good at moisture handling to enhance the comfort of the wearer. They do not generate static electricity as readily as fabrics made using continuous filament synthetic yarns.
• Fabrics made from currently available continuous filament cellulose yarns generally have poor physical properties.
• the dry strength and the tear strength are poor compared to fabrics made from synthetic polymers such as polyester.
• the wet strength is much lower than the dry strength due to interactions between the cellulose and water.
• the abrasion resistance is low.
• the interactions with water also soften the cellulose causing the fabrics made from the yarn to be unstable when wetted.
• a knitted fabric made from at least one yarn which consists of or contains lyocell filaments.
• knitted fabrics can be produced from continuous filament lyocell yarns and that such a knitted fabric has greatly superior physical properties compared to fabrics produced from continuous filament viscose or cupro. It has also been surprisingly found that lyocell fabrics can have the luster, moisture handling properties and low static generation that are the desirable characteristics of continuous filament viscose and cupro fabrics. Washability of the knitted fabric containing at least one lyocell filament yarn is superior to fabrics which use synthetic, wool and/or silk filaments.
• Lyocell is the generic name given to a type of cellulosic manmade fiber produced by a direct dissolution process. The lyocell process is described e.g. in US 4,246,221 and WO 93/19230.
• a slurry of wood pulp is formed with a solution of amine oxide in water. Water is then evaporated from the slurry in a thin film evaporator vessel. When the water level is reduced below a certain level, the cellulose forms a solution in the amine oxide. The resulting viscous liquid solidifies to a glassy solid below about 70 °C. If maintained above this temperature, it can be pumped through a spinneret to form fibers which are then immediately immersed in water where the dilution of the amine oxide causes the cellulose to precipitate.
• the lyocell process can be used in to produce continuous filament lyocell yarns.
• the spinneret used for extrusion of the amine oxide cellulose solution has a number of holes corresponding to the number of fibers required in the continuous filament yarn.
• the newly formed yarn is washed clean of amine oxide with a counter current flow of water. This washing may be done on self advancing reels on which water is introduced to wash the fiber. A finish may be applied to aid further processing and the yarn is dried. The washed and dried yam is wound onto a bobbin.
• cellulose in the form of wood pulp is the only raw material used.
• the wood pulp used comes from sustainable managed forests.
• the fiber produced is 100% cellulose and it is the only output from the process.
• the amine oxide solvent is recovered from the washing water and reused to produce further fiber. This recovery can be as high as 99.7%.
• the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very low. There are virtually no releases of gaseous or liquid emissions from the process and the fiber produced is solvent free.
• the viscose process uses carbon disulphide, sodium hydroxide, sulphuric acid and zinc sulphate. Hydrogen sulphide and carbon disulphide can be released from the process unless a great deal of care is taken. Sodium sulphate is produced as a byproduct of the process.
• the fiber produced by the lyocell process has considerably higher tensile strength than fiber produced by the viscose process. This can result in fabrics with better strength, tear strength and abrasion resistance.
• the fabric according to the invention can be further improved by the following features, which are all independent of one another.
• the continuous filament lyocell yarns used to produce the products of the invention may be the as produced yam in an untwisted state or may be twisted by rewinding. It may be a doubled yarn. It may be combined with another continuous filament yarn or staple fiber yarn by twisting the yarns together or by intermingling using for example an air jet.
• the twist of the lyocell filament yarn may be between 0 and 3500 TPM. It may be in particular at least 1000 TPM or at least 2000 TPM if special surface effects are desired.
• the knit fabric according to the invention has preferably good washability, in particular a low shrinkage.
• This is a unique property of the yarn consisting of or containing, preferably at least 10 % or at least 25 %, lyocell filaments. Due to the low shrinkage of lyocell filament yarn, yarns with 0 TPM or a very low twist, e.g. below 100 TPM, can be used without impairing washability.
• the combined shrinkage i.e. the sum of the absolute values of shrinkage in two perpendicular directions between TPM 0 and TPM 700 may in one embodiment be less than 12 % or even be less than 5 % after one and/or five washings.
• polyester or polyamide have a combined shrinkage of less than 5 % or even less than 2 %.
• the surface qualities of the knit fabric according to the invention are very good.
• the knit fabric comprising at least one yam with lyocell filament, i.e. a lyocell filament yarn may score at least 40000 cycles, preferably more than 100000 cycles to hole formation and/or no destruction before and after the first wash in a Martindale abrasion test, especially when lyocell filament is blended with synthetic fibers of minimum 30% preferable 50%.
• the lyocell denim according to the invention contains preferably at least 10% lyocell filaments in at least one of the weft and the warp yarn.
• the minimum overall content of lyocell filaments in the lyocell denim is above 10 %.
• a content of more than 10% can improve the handfeel of the fabric significantly given the soft structure of a yarn containing or consisting of lyocell filaments. Consequently the total content of lyocell of at least 10% already gives a haptical impact independent of whether the lyocell filament is used in warp or weft.
• a blend of at least 10 % lyocell filaments with other synthetic or cellulose filaments e.g.
• Moisture regain of the fabric as measured according to ASTMD 1909 is an indicator for the comfort level.
• Mulberry silk has 1 1 % of moisture regain and offers one of the best comfort levels of all fabrics with respect to moisture regain.
• the test of a lyocell filament shows a moisture regain of at least 13% which is similar or even better than the comfort offered by mulberry silk and better than expected.
• Another advantage of the knitted lyocell filament fabric is its ability to withstand even aggressive finishing agents such as chlorine bleach. It has even been found that application of such finishing agents may increase the softness of the knitted lyocell filament fabric.
• the knit fabric according to the invention may have a grade of not worse than 3, in particular 4 in a Martindale pilling test after 1000 cycles and/or not worse than 3.5 after 2000 cycles in the original state and/or after the first washing
• the hairiness of the knit fabric according to the invention may have a grade of not worse than 3 in the original state and/or after one washing and/or after five washings.
• Spirality of the knit fabric according to the invention measured over 50 cm may be less than 20 mm after one washing and less than 25 mm after five washings.
• the spirality may be influenced by the finishing and also by the content of elastane in the fabric.
• the products of the invention include products made using lyocell continuous filament yarn as produced or following further processing.
• the products include but are not limited to knitted fabrics produced using flatbed knitting machines, single cylinder circular knitting machines, double cylinder circular knitting machines and warp knitting machines. Any machine may be used that forms a fabric by knitting with continuous filament lyocell yarn on its own or in combination with other yams.
• the products of the invention are characterized by the superior physical properties that can be achieved using continuous filament lyocell yarns compared with other continuous filament cellulose yarns.
• the continuous filament lyocell yarn used to produce the products of the invention may be the as produced yam in an untwisted state or may be twisted by rewinding. It may be a doubled yarn. It may be combined with another continuous filament yarn or staple fiber yarn by twisting the yarns together or by intermingling using for example an air jet.
• Knitted fabrics can be produced from continuous filament lyocell yarn by any knitting technique used in the textile industry. They may be produced by single or double cylinder circular knitting, flat bed knitting, warp knitting or fully fashioned.
• Fabrics may be produced by knitting continuous filament lyocell yarns at the same time as knitting with other yarns on the same machine.
• the yarns may be fed to the machine through the same feeder to give the same yarns in each knitted lop.
• the yarns may be fed to the machine through separate feeders to give different combinations of yarns in adjacent courses or wales.
• Knitted fabrics produced using continuous filament lyocell yarns on their own or in combination with other yarns can have aesthetics and appearance similar to a fabric produced from continuous filament viscose yarn, but have significantly better physical properties.
• the higher strength and modulus of the continuous filament lyocell yarn result in improved fabric breaking strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and stability.
• the wet fabric properties are also superior.
• a knitted fabric made using continuous filament lyocell yarn has a similar luster, handle and appearance to a knitted fabric of the same weight and construction produced using continuous filament viscose.
• the properties of the lyocell fabric are considerably better.
• Fabrics made using continuous filament lyocell yarns can be dyed and finished using any of the dyeing methods usually used to dye and finish cellulosic fabrics. They can be dyed using reactive, vat, direct or sulphur dyes.
• Continuous filament lyocell fabrics can be rope dyed, open width dyed or batch dyed. Care must be taken to ensure that the fabric surface is not disturbed or damaged during dyeing and appropriate equipment must be used. It is well known that lyocell fabrics can fibrillate during wet processing. Short fibrils can form on the surface where wet abrasion occurs. Action must be taken to control this fibrillation either by allowing it to happen in an even and controlled way or by preventing fibrillation from occurring at all. Open width dyeing and batch dyeing are known methods of preventing fibrillation from occurring.
• the knit fabric according to the invention may be resinated and/or mechanically polished and/or a peach skin fabric. Such a fabric has superior surface aspects.
• Fibrillation can be used to produce a peach touch fabric using continuous filament lyocell yarns. For example if the fabric is dyed in an air jet dyeing machine where the surface of the fabric is evenly abraded when wet it will produce an even and attractive fibrillated surface.
• Continuous filament lyocell fabrics can be resin finished to prevent fibrillation in use and during laundering. Resin finishing also improves the stability and easy care properties of the fabric. The resin finish cross-links cellulose molecules and prevents them splitting from each other when the fabric is subject to wet abrasion.
• Fibrillation can also be prevented by the use of certain dyestuffs with more than one reactive group on the dye molecule. These dyes cross-link the cellulose in a similar way to resin finishes and thus prevent the fibers from fibrillating during wet abrasion.
• Knitted fabrics made using continuous filament lyocell yarn can be used for any application where fabrics made using continuous filament viscose or cupro yarns have been or are currently being used. They may also be used for other applications where fabrics made using continuous filament viscose or cupro do not have adequate properties to give the performance required.
• the knit fabric according to the invention may be a jersey.
• Knitted fabrics made using continuous filament lyocell yarn can be used to produce outerwear garments, hosiery, lingerie and underwear.
• Knitted products are fashion items which need to be available in a variety of looks and handfeels. It is therefore an advantage that the lyocell filaments allow the knitted fabric according to the invention to be made from a large variety of combinations, blends or mixtures of continuous lyocell filaments with filaments, fibers and yarns made from other synthetic, natural or cellulose materials.
• the scope of this invention is intended to include in particular any knitted fabric or article in which continuous filament lyocell is a major component.
• the invention also relates to use of a yarn containing or consisting of lyocell filaments in a knit fabric.
• the tests were carried out by 3 persons in a dark room in which a color assessment cabinet "Multilight Datacolor” of Variolux with daylight lamps D65 was provided.
• the lamps were mounted on an upper side of the cabinet.
• test sample was held oblique by the test person and the hairiness was graded between best (grade 5, no hairiness) and worst (grade 1 , long protruding fibers up to 2mm).
• the number of pillings was assessed using reference samples (knits K3 or K2, or wovens W3 or W2) of EMPA Standard SN 198525 analogous to DIN EN ISO 12 945-2.
• the reference samples are graded with 1 to 5 and are compared to the test samples. For no pills, grade 5 is given. The more pills there are on the surface of the test samples the worse the grade gets. The worst grade is 1.
• Fiber splice is created if fibrillic fibers are moved to the surface by scouring.
• the fibrillic fibers are brushlike ends with stick out if the scoured sample is analyzed under a microscope.
• a microscope SM with an X10 eyepiece made by UHL Technische Mikroskope was used for measuring fiber splice.
• grade 5 was given for a smooth surface which showed no fibrilles. If there was a dense fur of long, curved fiber ends that were partly detached from the surface, grade 1 was given.
• washing was performed according to DIN EN ISO 6330. Tests to assess parameters in the dry state are performed in the conditioned state 65/20, i.e. in the state where the fabric is at equilibrium with its surroundings which were kept at 65 % humidity and 20 °C.
• weight was determined according to DIN EN 12127.
• Yarn count in the weft and warp was performed in accordance with DIN 53820-3.
• Spirality was determined in measuring the deviation from the course in mm at a distance of 50 cm from the origin.
• a fabric was considered light if its weight was not more than 100 g/m 2 , medium if its weight was above 100 g/m 2 and not more than 220 g/m 2 and heavy if the weight exceeded 220 g/m 2 .
• Sample 1 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with 0 TPM (twists per meter). This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament.
• the single jersey had a medium weight of 140 g/m 2 .
• Sample 2 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with TPM 160. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament.
• the single jersey had a light weight of 89 g/m 2 .
• Sample 3 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with TPM 1200. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament.
• the single jersey had a light weight of 99 g/m 2 .
• Sample 4 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with TPM 2100. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament.
• the single jersey had a medium weight of 121 g/m 2 .
• Sample 5 was made as a single jersey with a two plies of lyocell filament dtex 100f60 intermingled and twisted with TPM 1200. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament.
• the single jersey had a heavy weight of 289 g/m 2 .
• Sample 6 was made as a single jersey with a two plies of lyocell filament dtex 300f180 intermingled. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament.
• the single jersey had a medium weight of 181 g/m 2 .
• Sample 7 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 60f30 with 0 TPM . This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament.
• the single jersey had a light weight of 100 g/m 2 .
• Sample 8 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 60f30 with 0 TPM plated on the knitting machine with 22 dtex elastane. This resulted in a fabric having 90% lyocell filament and 10% elastane.
• the single jersey had a medium weight of 129 g/m 2
• Sample 9 was made as a single jersey with a two-ply twist of lyocell filament dtex 40f30 twisted with TPM 500 plated with 22 dtex elastane. This resulted in a fabric having 90% lyocell filament and 10% elastane.
• the single jersey had a light weight of 100 g/m 2 .
• Table 1 a The materials and characteristics after washing and drying of the 100 % lyocell filament single jerseys of samples 1 to 4 are summarized in Table 1 a, those of the single jerseys of samples 5 to 9 in Table 1 b.
• Sample 10 was made as a single jersey with a two-ply twist on the base of Lyocell Filament dtex 40f30 with a yarn-twist of TPM 1200 plated on the knitting machine with 22 dtex Elastane. This resulted in a fabric having 90% lyocell filament and 10% elastane.
• the single jersey had a medium weight of 101 g/m 2 .
• Sample 1 1 is a commercially available comparative sample having 85% polyamide and 15% elastane.
• the single jersey had a medium weight of 122 g/m 2
• Sample 12 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of 80 dtex with 60 filaments bright 0 TPM intermingled with a polyester texturized yarn. This resulted in a fabric having 50% lyocell filament and 50% polyester.
• the single jersey had a heavy weight of 227 g/m 2 .
• Sample 13 is a commercially available comparative sample having 92% polyester filament and 8% elastane.
• the single jersey had a medium weight of 161 g/m 2 .
• a staple fiber yarn may be plied with at least one lyocell filament.
• the yarn legs can have any number of plies and any twist and any direction. Core yarns can be used. And the yarns may be intermingled.
• Sample 14 was made as an interlock with an yarn count of 150 dtex with 90 filaments and 0 TPM together used with an elastic core yarn of polyamide in a 2 by 2 knitting system. This resulted in a fabric having 60% lyocell filament, 40% polyamide and 10% elastane.
• the interlock had a heavy weight of 347 g/m 2 .
• Sample 15 was made as an interlock with an yarn count of 80 dtex with 60 filaments bright 0 TPM intermingled with a polyester dull filament. This resulted in a fabric having 50% Lyocell Filament and 50% polyester. The interlock had a heavy weight of 270 g/m 2 .
• Sample 16 was made as an interlock with an yam count of 80 dtex with 60 filaments dull 0 TPM intermingled with a polyester dull filament. This resulted in a fabric having 50% lyocell filament and 50% polyester. The interlock had a medium weight of 192 g/m 2 .
• Sample 17 was made as an interlock with an intermingled yarn on the base of lyocell filament 50 dtex with 30 single filaments bright with 0 TPM and 22 dtex elastane dull.
• the interlock had a medium weight of 189 g/m 2 .
• Table 3 presents an overview of the interlock samples 14 to 17 with respect to the material composition and properties. It can be seen that over a wide range of 50 to 150 dtex and for yam having 0 TPM, the resulting knit fabrics are washable and have an excellent shrinkage.
• Samples 18 to 21 were made as an interlock with an intermingled yarn on the base of lyocell filament 50 dtex with 30 single filaments bright with 0 TPM and 22 dtex elastane dull.
• the interlock had a medium weight of 204 g/m 2 .
• the material of samples 18 to 21 is identical. They differ, however, in their treatment as follows to investigate how fibrillation can be influenced and how fibrillation affects surface aspects of the knit such as pilling, hairiness and fiber splice.
• sample 18 was subjected to resin finishing, which resulted in sample 19, to mechanical polishing, which resulted in sample 20, and to peach skin treatment, which resulted in sample 21 .
• the material of samples 18 to 21 and the change in characteristics due to the different treatment is summarized in Table 4.
• sample 18 was also subjected to mechanical polishing to obtain sample 21 as follows.
• the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 °C and 22 rpm using as a detergent 1 g/l Kieralon JET, 2 g/l Soda and 1 g/l Persoftal L (1.2 kg of material and 150 I of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed and centrifugated and then dried hanging. After that, resin finishing took place in a stenter using the above recipe. After resin finishing, mechanical polishing was applied by tumbling the sample in an air tumbler for 7 minutes.
• the material of sample 18 was first washed, then enzyme-treated, finished and then tumble-dried.
• the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 °C and 22 rpm using as a detergent 1 g/l Kieralon JET, 2 g/l Soda and 1 g/l Persoftal L (1.2 kg of material and 150 I of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed and centrifugated and then dried hanging. After that, resin finishing took place in a stenter using the above recipe.
• the sample was washed in a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 °C and 22 rpm using as a detergent 1 g/l Kieralon JET, 2 g/l Soda and 1 g/l Persoftal L (1.2 kg of material and 150 I of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed.
• the enzyme treatment started at 55 °C. After 5 min, the pH value was controlled. If pH reached 5.5, 2.0 g/l Perizym 2000 were added. Then the treatment continued for 45 minutes at 55 °C. At the end of the enzyme treatment, heating to 85 °C took place and the treatment continued for 15 minutes. Then the water was drained, the material was rinsed with warm water and then cold water.
• the TSA test was carried out to verify that the haptic qualities of the lyocell filament knit are at least equal if not superior to existing knits.
• the TSA test was carried out to asses softness and smoothness, the two haptic qualities that are very important to the end consumer.
• the TSA test was performed using a TSA Tissue Softness Analyzer device of emtec electronics GmbH, Leipzig, Germany, and the software ESM which is shipped with the TSA.
• the TSA measures a sound spectrum which results from pressing and rotating a star-like body against a sample fabric with a defined force. For testing, the fabric is clamped around its perimeter and unsupported otherwise, in particular opposite the rotating body.
• the software and its evaluation algorithm was not used. Instead, the sound pressure as measured by the TSA at 7 kHz (TS7) was taken as an objective indirect measure of softness and the sound pressure at 750 Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by the TSA was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness.
• the sound pressure is automatically given by the TSA as dB V 2 rms, where V is the rotational velocity of the rotating body. Using these values directly avoided any problems that may have arisen due to the EMS algorithm having been developed for tissue, and not for woven fabrics. A total of four probes was subjected to the TSA test for each sample.
• the Handle-O-Meter tests were carried out using a Handle-O-Meter testing device of Thwing-Albert Instrument Company, West Berlin, NJ, USA. Sample size was 10 cm x 10 cm. The 1 ⁇ 4 inch slot was used with a 1 ,000 g beam and a stainless steel surface. The tests were conducted on samples cond. 65/20.
• the Handle-O-Meter yields two force measurements which are assigned to two orthogonal directions, a machine direction MD which in the chosen set-up corresponded to the warp direction and a cross direction CD whichin the chosen setup corresponded to the weft direction. These forces are correlated to the stiffness and smoothness of the tested surface. The force is normalized with the bulk weight of the test sample, resulting in a specific hand in mN m 2 g "1 .
• Sample 14 Sample 15 Sample 16 Sample 17 air permeability l/m 2 /s 569 2370 1435 485 abrasion test Martindale

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