WO2019029057A1 - 具有环境水分响应能力的纺织面料设计及制备方法 - Google Patents

具有环境水分响应能力的纺织面料设计及制备方法 Download PDF

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WO2019029057A1
WO2019029057A1 PCT/CN2017/113069 CN2017113069W WO2019029057A1 WO 2019029057 A1 WO2019029057 A1 WO 2019029057A1 CN 2017113069 W CN2017113069 W CN 2017113069W WO 2019029057 A1 WO2019029057 A1 WO 2019029057A1
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yarn
fabric
moisture
textured
longitudinally
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PCT/CN2017/113069
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English (en)
French (fr)
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胡军岩
陈长荣
孙华叶
昝涛
丁晓峰
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东莞超盈纺织有限公司
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Publication of WO2019029057A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019029057A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12—Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a textile flexible fabric which is directly in contact with human skin and intelligently adjusts the air permeability of the fabric according to the difference in the amount of sweat on the surface of the skin under different exercise conditions, and improves the comfort of the contact between the fabric and the skin. Design and preparation methods.
  • Patent application CN 106012538 A "Manufacturing method of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying single-guide wet double-layer fabric” reported that a double-layer fabric grey fabric was prepared by using a cationic polyester yarn and a polyester filament yarn, and then a double-layer fabric grey fabric was prepared by using a modified refining agent LS01. A moisture-absorbing, quick-drying, single-guide wet fabric made by processing.
  • Patent application CN 105725319 A "A moisture absorbing and quick-drying knitted denim shirt fabric” consists of a modified polyester staple fiber Porel moisture absorbing quick-drying fiber with a capillary waist-shaped inner cavity structure, a cotton blended yarn and a spandex yarn.
  • Patent application CN 106283368 A "An antibacterial, deodorant, moisture-absorbing and quick-drying knitted fabric” production process uses nano-scale silver-based antibacterial materials to provide excellent antibacterial and deodorizing functions, and utilizes improved grooved fiber cross-section to bring significant moisture absorption and quick drying The effect of the pure silver component in the fiber can kill various common pathogens harmful to the human body and remove the sweat odor in a short time; Patent CN 205741455 U "a moisture permeable and quick-drying moisture absorbing heating fabric", the fabric includes: a front side Layer and reverse layer, the front layer yarn is covered with nylon polyester blended yarn, the reverse layer is moisture absorbing polyester yarn, and the moisture absorbing polyester yarn is connected with the front layer yarn by tucking form, showing 1:2 twill structure And the surface of the front layer and the
  • a yarn-dyed fabric moisture absorption and quick-drying finishing process provides a yarn-dyed fabric moisture absorption and quick-drying finishing process, the finishing process is:
  • the yarn-dyed fabric is immersed in the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying finishing agent, wherein the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying finishing agent is composed of a surfactant and a polyether amino-modified silicone oil, and the horizontal wicking and diffusibility of the finished fabric are improved by 260% by using a rolling baking process.
  • patent application CN 103276601 A "dyeing and finishing process of a moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fabric", using a pre-set of grey cloth ⁇ pre-treatment of degreasing and de-slurry ⁇ dyeing ⁇ reduction cleaning ⁇ de-micro Fiber finishing ⁇ moisture absorption and quick drying finishing ⁇ shaping process not only can maintain the moisture wicking function of the fabric, but also maintain the function of hydrophobic and quick drying, which can meet the requirements of moisture absorption and quick drying of the fabric. Both of them achieve the function of moisture absorption and quick drying from the aspect of finishing.
  • the above functional fabrics are permanently used for this function.
  • the above functions can help the wearer to quickly discharge water to the outer surface of the fabric to make the wearer feel comfortable.
  • this function often leads to aggravation of dry skin. Severe can cause scaly skin and itching, premature aging or cracking. Therefore, the design of new functional fabrics or garments in the world has begun to pay attention to how to regulate the emission of human body moisture during the wearing process.
  • US20140000004A1 "Article of Apparel with Variable Air permeability” reports that the air permeability of the sweaty area of the human body is increased by the design of the garment to achieve different moisture permeability in different regions.
  • US 20080057809 A1 "Temperature and moisture responsive smart textile” coats a surface of a fabric with a hydrogel coating that exhibits expansion or contraction in response to changes in relative humidity or exposure to liquid sweat to the ability to alter the overall thermal conductivity of the fabric.
  • the Journal of Science published in 2015 (Moisture-responsive films of cellulose stearoyl esters showing reversible shape transitions, Sci Rep. 2015 August 05; 5:12390.) reported a type of curling and stretching that can be changed with humidity. Film.
  • the woven fabric is usually in a dry state and is no different from ordinary fabrics, but when it is in contact with water, the gel on the fabric will absorb water and swell and block the pores between the woven fabric fibers, thereby reducing the water permeability and gas permeability of the fabric and preventing the exterior. Moisture penetrates into the inner layer of the fabric and prevents the heat from spreading out in the body. Therefore, it can be used to make military anti-dip suits, heat storage and temperature-regulating special clothing, and thermal protective clothing.
  • the preparation method of the moisture-extended modified polyester filament structure of the Chinese patent CN102041578B reports that the water-absorbing elongation of the modified polyester filament structure is 10% to 50% under the condition of 35 degrees and 95% humidity.
  • the present invention defines a novel functional fabric that utilizes the known properties of existing raw yarns to impart a stimulus to the environment (eg, temperature, humidity, etc.) through a novel design on the textile structure. And change its own physical characteristics. In this way, the fabric can achieve a normal air permeability without warming to achieve warmth, and in the case of sweating, the presence of sweat can change the geometrical dimensions of the yarn in different directions, thereby increasing the transparency of the fabric. Voids for enhanced cooling and heat or moisture.
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a textile fabric principle and design method with intelligent adjustment of ventilation and moisture permeability for the above-mentioned defects of the prior art. This helps to improve the comfort of the garment.
  • the design method of the present invention combines the structure of the fabric according to the characteristics of the textile material according to the amount of moisture in the environment and the amount of moisture required by the environment to automatically adjust the degree of pore opening and closing.
  • the structural design creatively enables the flexible fabric to be produced not only with the softness and smoothness of modern fabrics, but also with the increase of the amount of sweat on the surface of the skin, which automatically increases the porosity between the fabric yarns to improve the air and moisture of the fabric.
  • viscose fiber a cellulose extracted from cellulose materials such as wood and plant masts.
  • Man-made fibers processed into a spinning dope and then wet-spun.
  • the invention has the advantages of good hygroscopicity, significant expansion after moisture absorption, and diameter increase of up to 50%; silk has strong hygroscopicity.
  • the moisture regain of mulberry silk can reach 8%-9%.
  • the tussah silk reaches more than 10%, and when the moisture absorption reaches saturation, it can reach 35%, and the loss rate is fast.
  • the fiber After absorbing moisture, the fiber expands and the diameter can be increased by 65% (https://www.bianhua8.com/article/35332).
  • the VENTCOOL yarn developed by Japan's Mitsubishi Chemical can be changed from curl to straight after moisture absorption to reduce the diameter of the yarn ( http://mrtx.co.jp/en/sozai/ventcool.html ).
  • the implementation methods include:
  • the fabric of the design includes at least three kinds of yarns whose mechanical and physical properties of the fiber after the moisture absorption are different, and are respectively named as (1) longitudinally deformed yarn; (2) transversely textured yarn; and (3) basic structural yarn.
  • the longitudinally deformed yarn is tapered after the force or moisture absorption, and the longitudinal length is elongated; the transversely deformed yarn is significantly thicker when the moisture is absorbed, and the longitudinal length is shortened or unchanged; the geometrical characteristics of the fiber after the moisture absorption of the basic structure yarn are small.
  • the warp yarn (weft) of the woven fabric contains at least 2% longitudinally textured yarn. This kind of yarn has a yarn with water absorption elongation characteristics or a tensile strength characteristic. Its longitudinal elongation ability is at least greater than 2%. At the same time, the preferred amount of yarn used is greater than 50%, up to 100%.
  • the weft (warp) of the woven fabric can be combined with the transversely textured yarn.
  • the choice of the transversely textured yarn can be selected based on the nominal moisture regain of the yarn material, which in the present invention requires a nominal moisture regain of > 3%, preferably > 7%.
  • the warp or weft of the woven fabric can also be selected according to different functional designs.
  • the requirement of the basic structure yarn is that in addition to having the required function, in the present invention, the lateral swelling deformation amount after moisture absorption is particularly required to be ⁇ 1%, and therefore the predetermined moisture regain ratio of the fiber is required to be ⁇ 13%, preferably ⁇ 7%.
  • the first road or the continuous N road adopts a transversely deformed yarn.
  • the choice can be selected based on the nominal moisture regain of the yarn material, which in the present invention requires a nominal moisture regain of > 3%, preferably > 7%.
  • one or six consecutive longitudinally textured yarns are arranged. Its longitudinal elongation change ability is at least greater than 2%. At the same time, the preferred amount of yarn used is greater than 50%, up to 100%.
  • the yarn Arrange one or a continuous N-way third yarn, the underlying structural fiber, behind the yarn in b) above.
  • the yarn is selected to have a lateral swelling deformation ⁇ 1% after moisture absorption, and therefore the required moisture regain of the fiber is required to be ⁇ 13%, preferably ⁇ 7%.
  • the transversely deformed yarn is placed in GB2 or other combs with a certain pad structure, and the threading method is full or any empty.
  • the choice can be selected based on the nominal moisture regain of the yarn material, which in the present invention requires a nominal moisture regain of > 3%, preferably > 7%.
  • the basic structure yarn is placed in GB3 or other combs with a certain pad structure, and the threading method adopts full wear or any empty wear method.
  • the yarn is selected to have a lateral swelling deformation ⁇ 1% after moisture absorption, and therefore the required moisture regain of the fiber is required to be ⁇ 13%, preferably ⁇ 7%.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a basic unit and a variant of the present invention
  • Figure 2 is the basic theory of the present invention: a calculation model for the length of the common tangent in the two circles;
  • Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of a basic shuttle fabric calculation unit of the present invention.
  • Figure 5 is an example of calculation of a twill weave fabric
  • Figure 6 is a schematic diagram of a basic unit and a variant of the present invention.
  • Figure 7 is a schematic view of a basic unit and a variant of the warp-knitted top view of the present invention.
  • Fig. 8 is a view showing the basic unit and a modification of the warp knitting side example of the present invention.
  • Woven fabrics are well known in the art as continuous flexible porous materials composed of warp and weft yarns according to a certain structure.
  • the heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the fabric itself play a key role in the thermal comfort of the human body during the taking process, and it is necessary to balance the heat dissipation effect of the garment according to the different exercise states (metabolism rate) of the wearer.
  • Corresponding to the changing environment and how the human body's state of motion reaches a large range of dynamic balance is one of the focuses of researchers, especially how to achieve the moisture balance of the skin surface of the skin.
  • the breathability of the fabric is one of the key indicators and is closely related to the structure of the fabric, depending on the gap between the yarns.
  • the basic unit of Fig. 1(a) shows the state of the fabric under non-dominant sweating conditions. Only J2 in the warp yarns (J1, J2, J3) has hygroscopic swelling, while J1 is the basic structural yarn, and J3 is the basis. Structural yarn or elastic yarn; weft yarn (W1, W2, W3) When the sports sweating, the fabrics W1 and W3 are the basic structural yarns, the geometrical dimensions of the yarns remain basically unchanged, and W2 is the longitudinally textured yarn, which is significantly thinner after moisture absorption. With elongation. Therefore, the structural characteristics of the fabric will result in two changes:
  • the gap between the yarns is significantly increased, which leads to an increase in gas permeability
  • Figure 2 is a two-circle internal tangent length calculation model.
  • the calculation of the circle envelope and the common tangent length has been discussed in depth in geometry. I will not explain and discuss it in depth here, but simply list the corresponding calculation results.
  • C1 as the first center of the circle, R1 is half Diameter
  • C2 is the center of the second circle, R2 is the radius
  • the length of the inner common tangent line P1P2 of the distance between the two centers d can be converted into the calculation of the triangle C1C2C. So you can get the following formula
  • the length of the common tangent line can be calculated regardless of the inner and outer cuts of the two circles, and the change of the thickness direction of the combined fabric and the display of FIG. 1(b) can be obtained by the method of the present invention.
  • the fabric can achieve an increase in the breathability of the fabric (increased opening space) under moisture absorbing conditions.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic view of the present example. This is a typical plain structure. In this unit:
  • Warp yarn C1 is the basic structure yarn.
  • the selected material is ordinary polyester (100% polyester yarn, 40S, strand: 1, Zhejiang Zhuji Minsheng Textile Co., Ltd.). Its moisture regain is 1.5%;
  • ⁇ C2 is moisture-absorbing transversely textured yarn.
  • the selected material is viscose fiber (component and content: 100% viscose, yarn count: 40s, strand: 1, Dongguan Dalang Yuexiong Textile Trading Co., Ltd.). Its moisture regain rate is about 12%. According to Baidu Encyclopedia
  • viscose fiber has good hygroscopicity in the general atmosphere Under the condition, the moisture regain rate is about 13%. Significantly swells after moisture absorption and increases diameter by up to 50%.
  • ⁇ C3 is the same as C1
  • the weft yarn is inserted into the weft with VENTCOOL and ordinary polyester 1:1 (VENTCOOL, MITSUBISHIRAYON Japan, http://mrtx.co.jp/en/sozai/ventcool.html); the ordinary polyester yarn parameters are consistent with the C1 yarn.
  • Figure 4 is a diagram showing a basic shuttle fabric calculation unit model of the present invention.
  • the longitudinally textured yarn of the weft yarn is made to have a reduced diameter and a long length due to the use of the moisture-absorbing elongation yarn.
  • the gap between the yarns of the fabric is increased, and the gas permeability is improved; and at the same time, the existence of the base yarn, due to its relatively low moisture regain, has little change in geometrical dimensions. Therefore, unevenness of the surface of the fabric is also caused.
  • due to the existence of the basic structure yarn after the longitudinally deformed yarn is stretched, the external force acting on the fabric is almost borne by the base structure yarn, and therefore the problem of low wet strength of the viscose fabric is also improved.
  • the following twill structure can also be constructed.
  • a warp yarn is added with a C4 material having the same properties as C1.
  • the design of the weft yarn and the arrangement of the weft insertion sequence are the same as in the first example.
  • the main change is the plain weave structure of Example 1.
  • the yarn is one on top and the other is changed into a diagonally spun structure. It can be obtained from Fig. 5 that the fabric of the transversely deformed yarn becomes thicker after the moisture absorption of the fabric, and the rise of the longitudinally deformed yarn is promoted, and the thickness of the fabric at the position of the transversely deformed yarn is correspondingly thickened, and the gap between the longitudinally deformed yarn and the adjacent yarn is driven.
  • Figure 5 clearly discloses that the fabric design method of the present invention can be implemented on a variety of fabric structures, and that various combinations of structures and materials can be realized by those skilled in the art under the teachings of the principles of the present invention.
  • Figure 6 shows the basic unit and variant of the example of the present invention
  • Figure 6 is a weft knitting of one of the structures and yarn combinations, again using the principles of the present invention.
  • the heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the fabric itself play a key role in the thermal comfort of the human body during the taking process, and it is necessary to balance the heat dissipation effect of the garment according to the different exercise states (metabolism rate) of the wearer.
  • FIG. 6 (a) The basic unit shows the state of the fabric under non-dominant sweating conditions, L1 black (the same as the warp knitting) is the transversely textured yarn, L2 gray (the warp knitting is the same) is the longitudinally textured yarn, L3 white (the The same is indicated for the basic structure yarn. (b) The longitudinally textured yarn of the fabric after sweating, which is significantly thinned and elongated after moisture absorption, such as H'>H. The L3 basic structure yarn maintains its original shape, which ensures that the fabric still has strong stability after sweating. Therefore, the structural characteristics of the fabric will result in three variations:
  • the principle of the woven fabric is the same as that of the woven fabric in the cross-sectional direction. As the hygroscopic diameter of the transversely deformed yarn becomes larger, the cross-sectional area of the fabric becomes larger, and the vent hole provided by the fabric becomes larger after sweating.
  • the fabric yarn can increase the void in the fabric structure after the moisture absorption becomes thicker or longer.
  • Figure 7 is a schematic diagram of a basic unit and a variant of the warp-knitted example of the present invention.
  • Figures 7 and 8 are a combination of one of the structures and the yarns, and the principles of the present invention are also utilized.
  • the heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the fabric itself play a key role in the thermal comfort of the human body during the taking process, and it is necessary to balance the heat dissipation effect of the garment according to the different exercise states (metabolism rate) of the wearer.
  • the basic unit of Fig. 7(a) shows the state of the fabric under non-dominant sweating conditions, black is a transversely textured yarn, gray is a longitudinally textured yarn, and white is a basic structural yarn.
  • the longitudinally textured yarn of the fabric after sweating which is significantly thinned and elongated after moisture absorption, such as H'>H.
  • the basic structure yarn maintains its original shape, so that the fabric still has strong stability after sweating, and the longitudinal coil density does not change substantially. Therefore, the structural characteristics of the fabric will result in three variations:
  • the principle of the woven fabric is the same as that of the woven fabric in the cross-sectional direction. Since the transversely deformed yarn has a larger hygroscopic diameter, the cross-sectional height of the fabric becomes larger, and the longitudinally deformed yarn makes the elongation line longer, and the distance between the wales of the two stitches is H'>H. According to the geometric principle, the cross-sectional area is increased, so that the vent hole provided by the fabric after sweating becomes large.
  • the fabric yarn can increase the voids in the fabric structure after the moisture absorption becomes thicker or longer. We can verify it by basic geometrical principles. The calculation principle and method are shown in Fig. 3.

Abstract

一种可以根据穿着者在不同运动量状态下其皮肤表面汗水积累量的不同而智能调节面料自身透气与透湿能力的织物及其制造方法。所述织物包含：纵向变形纱；横向变形纱；基础结构纱。纵向变形纱受力或吸湿后纵向长度伸长；横向变形纱吸湿后横向直径显著变粗；基础结构纱吸湿后纤维几何特性变化较小。所述制造方法使所生产的织物可以随着皮肤表面汗液量的增加自动增加织物纱线间孔隙率，及减少织物与皮肤接触面积以提高织物空气与水汽的透过能力及接触舒适性。

Description

具有环境水分响应能力的纺织面料设计及制备方法 技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，尤其涉及一种直接与人体皮肤相接触的，根据不同运动量条件下皮肤表面汗水量的不同而智能调节面料自身透气能力，改善织物与皮肤接触的舒适感的纺织柔性织物的设计及制备方法。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的不断提高，相应地对服装面料也产生了多种多样的要求，如何改善面料服用舒适性已经成为纺织领域的研究热点之一。具有热湿调节功能的功能面料，提高工作及运动着装的舒适性更是研究的重点。通过对专利的检索我们可以清晰地看到，有关织物导热，导湿相关功能的面料已经有了诸多先有的发明。
特别是广大消费者及研究人员都已经认识到运动过程中，随着人体新陈代谢率的增加，人体的核心体温会上升，而触发出汗的生理机制实现帮助人体的散温及实现热平衡。但是另一方面是由于皮肤表面的出汗往往给穿着都以不舒服的感觉，由此目前已有大量的专利报道是从材料的选择，织物结构的设计及后整理等多个方面实现吸湿快干，或单向导湿等功能特性面料的设计及制备方法。例如：
专利申请CN 106012538 A，“吸湿快干单向导湿双层面料的制作方法”报道了采用阳离子涤纶纱和涤纶长丝编织制成双层面料坯布，然后采用改性精炼剂LS01对双层面料坯布进行处理制成的吸湿快干单向导湿面料。专利申请CN 105725319 A“一种吸湿快干针织牛仔衬衫面料”由毛细管腰圆形内腔结构的改性聚酯短纤维Porel吸湿快干纤维与棉混纺色纱、氨纶两种纱线组成，具有吸湿快干效果良好，手感柔软轻薄，外观效果与梭织牛仔面料极为相似，面料弹性优于梭织牛仔面料的特性。专利申请CN 106283368 A“一种抗菌防臭吸湿快干针织面料”的生产工艺采用纳米级银基抗菌物提供优异的抗菌除臭功能，并利用改进型沟槽状纤维截面带来显著的吸湿快干效果，纤维中的纯银成分能够在短时间内杀灭对人体有害的各种常见病菌并除去汗臭；专利CN 205741455 U“一种透湿快干的吸湿发热面料”，该织物包括：正面层和反面层，正面层纱线为尼龙涤纶混纺纱包覆所述氨纶，反面层为吸湿发热涤纶纱，吸湿发热涤纶纱与正面层纱线通过集圈形式连接，呈1:2斜纹结构，并在正面层和所述反面层的表面涂覆有吸湿快干助剂。通实 现吸湿发热、透湿快干功能；其它的，如专利申请CN 105088802 A，“一种色织面料吸湿快干整理工艺”，提供一种色织面料吸湿快干整理工艺，整理过程为：将色织面料浸入吸湿快干整理剂中，其中吸湿快干整理剂由表面活性剂、聚醚氨基改性硅油组成，采用轧烘焙工艺方法，整理后的织物水平芯吸、扩散性提高了260％，导湿量、手感和弹性均较好；专利申请CN 103276601 A，“一种吸湿快干面料的染整工艺”，采用坯布预定型→去油去浆前处理→染色→还原清洗→去微纤整理→吸湿快干整理→定型的工艺流程不仅能保持面料的吸湿排汗功能，还能保持疏水快干功能，能够达到面料的吸湿快干的要求。都从后整理的方面实现了吸湿快干的功能。
上述功能面料，无论是吸湿快干还是单向导湿，都是永久性地发挥着此项功能。当然，在人体出汗的情况下上述功能是可以帮助穿着者快速将水排到织物的外表面而使穿着者感觉舒服。但是，由于服装在穿着的过程中并不是全过程都是在出汗的情况下，特别是对于老人或女性在冬季气候相对干燥的情况下，此项功能往往会导致加重皮肤干燥症。严重的会引起鳞状皮肤及瘙痒，皮肤早衰或开裂。因此世界上新的功能面料或服装的设计都已经开始关注如何在穿着过程中调节人体水分的散发。如US20140000004A1，“Article of Apparel with Variable Air permeability”报道了通过服装设计加大人体多汗区域的透气量实现不同区域不同的透湿能力。US 20080057809A1“Temperature and moisture responsive smart textile”通过织物表面涂覆水凝胶涂层，其响应于相对湿度的变化或暴露于液体汗液而显示膨胀或收缩达到改变织物整体导热导湿的能力。科学杂志在2015年发表了研究论文(Moisture-responsive films of cellulose stearoyl esters showing reversible shape transitions，Sci Rep.2015 August 05；5:12390.)报道了一种可以随着湿度的变化而能卷曲与伸展的薄膜。
同时人们更关注受环境条件变化刺激而发生相应反应的智能材料的创新。例如，US20130344761A1，和US 8389100B2都报道了不同的材料或纤维在环境湿度遇到湿度的升高，通过双组份材料的复合实现纤维的卷曲或伸展；中国专利申请201610058509.0也报道了一种湿度敏感可伸缩聚苯胺导电纤维及其制备方法，将质子酸掺杂聚苯胺形成的导电层均匀包覆在氨纶内线的棉纱线上从而实现导电纤维对湿度感应灵敏，其导电率随湿度变化明显。中国专利CN 1844553 A，一种环境响应性智能纺织面料及其制备方法报道了将经过氩气微波低温等离子体引发处理而在表面产生自由基的纺织物加入到含有N，N’－亚甲基双丙烯酰胺交联剂的2－丙烯酰胺－2－甲基丙磺酸和N－异丙基丙烯酰胺的二元单体溶液中进行接枝聚 合反应，以使产生的二元智能凝胶接枝在纺织物的纤维大分子。该纺织面料平时处于干态时与普通织物没有区别，但遇水时织物上的凝胶就会吸水溶涨而将织物纤维间的孔隙堵塞，从而降低织物的透水、透气性，并能阻止外部水分渗透到织物里层和防止体内热量向外扩散，因此可用于制作军用抗浸服、蓄热调温特种服装以及隔热防护服等。中国专利CN102041578B可吸湿伸长的改性聚酯丝状结构物的制备方法报道了在35度95％湿度条件下改性聚酯丝状结构物吸水伸长率为10％～50％。
由上述对比文件的描述可见，现有技术都是通过特意地改变原料纤维的化学组成和结构来达到特定的技术效果，使得纤维纱线随外界环境变化而产生变化。这些方法不可避免地增加了设计难度且降低设计的灵活性，增高生产成本。
本发明定义一种新型的功能面料，利用现有原料纱已知的特性通过在纺织组织结构上的新型的设计，而使得所生产的面料会随着环境变化的刺激(如温度，湿度等)而改变其自身的物理特性。这样，织物能实现在不出汗情况下,有正常的透气量以达到保暖的功效,而在出汗的情况下，汗水的存在则能改变不同方向纱线的几何尺度，从而增加织物通透空隙以达到增强降温与散热或湿的功效。通过专利检索，我们发现目前还没有报道利用智能材料结构织物组织结构的设计实现对人体体表汗液量的不变化而实现不同导湿功能的报道。
发明内容
本发明要解决的技术问题在于，针对现有技术的上述缺陷，提供一种具有智能调节透气与透湿能力的纺织面料原理与设计方法。从而有助于改善服装的服用舒适性。
受自然界树叶上的气孔能根据环境中水分的多寡及自身对水分的需求量自动调节其气孔开闭程度以调节自身水分蒸发量的启迪,本发明的设计方法根据纺织材料的特性结合织物的组织结构设计,创造性地使所生产的柔性织物不但具备现代织物柔软光滑的良好皮肤接触舒适感,更可以随着皮肤表面汗液量的增加,自动增加织物纱线间孔隙率以提高织物空气与水汽的透过能力,尽可能地减少汗液在皮肤表面的积聚，同时也增强了织物的散热能力。在低运动量状况下，尽量闭合气孔，降低织物孔隙率以减少透气与透湿能力，更进一步对比在出汗状态可以提高织物的保暖能力。
通过对材料特性的分析，本发明人发现许多市场上可以获得的材料都有不同吸湿变形的特点，例如粘胶纤维：一种从木材和植物藁杆等纤维素原料中提取的纤维素，经加工成纺丝原液，再经湿法纺丝制成的人造纤维。其优点是具有良好吸湿性，吸湿后显著膨胀，直径增加可达50％；蚕丝有很强的吸湿性。桑蚕丝回潮率可达8％—9％。柞蚕丝达10％以上，吸湿达到饱和时可达到35％，且散失速度快。吸湿后纤维膨胀，直径可增加65％(https://www.bianhua8.com/article/35332)。由日本Mitsubishi Chemical研发的VENTCOOL纱线在吸湿后可以由卷曲变成伸直从而减小纱线的直径增加长度(http://mrtx.co.jp/en/sozai/ventcool.html)。
其实现方法包括：
材料准备，所有材料都有特定的要求例如吸湿膨涨或/和吸湿伸长或/和弹性变形特性的要求，并且织物的组织结构也有特定的排列规则。本设计的面料中至少包含吸湿后纤维几何物理特性变化不相同的三种纱线,并分别命名为，(1)纵向变形纱；(2)横向变形纱；(3)基础结构纱。纵向变形纱受力或吸湿后横向直径变细,纵向长度伸长；横向变形纱吸湿后横向直径显著变粗,纵向长度变短或不变；基础结构纱吸湿后纤维几何特性变化较小。
对于梭织面料：
a.梭织面料的经纱(纬纱)至少包含2％纵向变形纱。该种纱线具有吸水伸长特性的纱线或受力伸长特性。其纵向伸长变能力至少大于2％。同时纱线的优选采用量大于50％，可以直至100％。
b.梭织面料的纬纱(经纱)则纱线可以配合采用横向变形纱。横向变形纱的选择可以根据纱线材料的公定回潮率进行选择，在本发明中要求纤维的公定回潮率>3％，优选>7％。
c.梭织面料的经纱或纬纱也可以根据不同功能设计选择不同基础结构纱。基础结构纱的要求是除具备所需要的功能外，在本发明中特别要求其吸湿后横向膨涨变形量<1％,因此要求纤维的公定回潮率<13％，优选<7％。
对于纬编织物织法上的设计具有如下特征：
a.第一路或者连续N路采用横向变形纱。选择可以根据纱线材料的公定回潮率进行选择，在本发明中要求纤维的公定回潮率>3％，优选>7％。
b.在上述a)中纱线后面紧接排列一路或者连续N路纵向变形纱。其纵向伸长变化能力至少大于2％。同时纱线的优选采用量大于50％，可以直至100％。
c.在上述b)中纱线后面排列一路或者连续N路第三种纱线，基础结构纤维。选择此纱线要求其吸湿后横向膨涨变形量<1％,因此要求纤维的公定回潮率<13％，优选<7％。
以上发明原理双面织物同样包括在内
对于经编织物有如下特征：
a.首先选择纵向变形纱，放在GB1或者其他梳节采用一定垫纱结构，穿纱方法采用满穿或者任何空穿方法。其纵向伸长变能力至少大于2％。同时纱线的优选采用量大于50％，可以直至100％。
b.横向变形纱放在GB2或者其他梳节采用一定垫纱结构，穿纱方法采用满穿或者任何空穿方法。选择可以根据纱线材料的公定回潮率进行选择，在本发明中要求纤维的公定回潮率>3％，优选>7％。
c.基础结构纱放在GB3或者其他梳节采用一定垫纱结构，穿纱方法采用满穿或者任何空穿方法。选择此纱线要求其吸湿后横向膨涨变形量<1％,因此要求纤维的公定回潮率<13％，优选<7％。
以上发明原理双面织物同样包括在内
附图说明
图1是本发明示例之基本单元及变形示意；
图2是本发明之基础理论：二圆内公切线长度计算模型；
图3是本发明是本发明基础理论之圆外公切线长度计算模型；
图4是本发明示一个基本梭织物计算单元模型；
图5是斜纹梭织面料计算实例；
图6是本发明示例之基本单元及变形示意；
图7是本发明经编俯视示例之基本单元及变形示意；和
图8是本发明经编侧示例之基本单元及变形示意。
将结合附图及实施例对本发明作进一步说明：
由图1，我们可以清楚展示本发明的原理。业内公知梭织织物是由经纱与纬纱根据一定的组织结构组成的连续柔性多孔材料。在服用的过程中织物自身热湿传递特性在人体热舒适性方面起到关键的作用，需要根据穿着者不同的运动状态(新陈代谢率)平衡服装的保温散热之功效。对应于多变的环境与人体运动状态如何达到较大范围内的动态平衡是各研究人员关心的重点之一，特别是如何达到皮肤用皮肤表面的水份平衡。织物的透气性能是其中一项关键指标，而与织物的结构紧密相关，取决于纱线间的空隙。空隙越大，透气性越好而保暖性越差。基于上述考虑，图1(a)基本单元展示了织物在非显性出汗条件下状态，经纱(J1，J2，J3)中只有J2具吸湿膨涨，而J1是基础结构纱，J3是基础结构纱或弹性纱；纬纱(W1，W2，W3)当运动出汗后织物W1、W3是基础结构纱，其纱线的几何尺寸保持基本不变，W2是纵向变形纱，吸湿后显著变细与伸长。因此织物的结构特性将会形成二种变化结果：
1.纱线间的空隙显著增大，这会导致透气性的增高；
2.织物中同时存在基础结构纱与纵向、横向变形纱，因此织物将会在厚度方向及长宽方向吸湿后同时发生部分变形，这会造成原先平整的织物表面形成起伏而不平整。进而在穿着出汗时能有效地减少织物与皮肤接触的面积。
有关织物纱线在吸湿变粗或变长后能增加织物结构中的空隙我们可以利用基本的几何原理加以验证。图2与图3分别表示了纱线在梭织面料中可能的结构。
本发明之基础理论显示在图2中，即二圆内公切线长度计算模型。有关圆的包络线与公切线长度计算在几何学中已经有了深入的讨论在此就不做深入的解释与讨论，只是简单地列出相应的计算结果。对二圆(以C1为第一圆圆心，R1为半 径；以C2为第二圆圆心，R2为半径；二圆心距离d)的内公切线P1P2长度可以转化成对三角形C1C2C的计算。因此可以得到如下公式
Figure PCTCN2017113069-appb-000001
同理对于二圆外公切线P1P2的计算也可以得到如下的公式
Figure PCTCN2017113069-appb-000002
由此可以得到无论是二圆内外公切，其公切线的长度都是可以计算得到的，结合织物在厚度方向上的变化与图1(b)的展示我们可以得到按本发明的方法所设计的织物在吸收水分的条件下可以达至织物透气性的增加(开口空间的增加)。
具体实施方式
实例一
在本发明专利中提出了一种织物纱线在吸水后利用不同材料(纱线)吸湿反应的不同，使得织物能在吸湿后打开结构增加透气面积，减少织物表面的平整度，提高出汗后穿着的舒适性。
图4所示是本实例的示意图。这是一种典型的平纹结构。在此单元中：
●经纱C1是基础结构纱，所选用的材料是普通绦纶(100％涤纶纱，40S，股线:1，浙江省诸暨市民生纺织有限公司)其回潮率是1.5％；
●C2是吸湿横向变形纱，所选用的材料是粘胶纤维(成分及含量:100％粘胶，纱支:40s，股线:1，东莞市大朗粤雄纺织品贸易行)。其回潮率是12％左右。根据百度百科介绍
(http://baike.baidu.com/item/％E7％B2％98％E8％83％B6％E7％BA％A4％E7％BB％B4)粘胶纤维具有良好的吸湿性，在一般大气条件下，回潮率在13％左右。吸湿后显著膨胀，直径增加可达50％。
●C3与C1相同
●纬纱以VENTCOOL与普通涤纶1：1次序入纬(VENTCOOL，MITSUBISHIRAYON日本，http://mrtx.co.jp/en/sozai/ventcool.html)；普通涤纶纱参数与C1纱一致。
图4是本发明示一个基本梭织物计算单元模型
由图4可以得到，当织物吸湿后，C2纱的直径由R3变成了R2，而此时基础结构纱C1，与C3的直径没有变化。与此同时，在纬纱纵向变形纱由于采用了吸湿伸长纱，其直径变细，同时长度变长。根据本发明的理论介绍部分，织物纱线间的空隙得到了增加，透气性得到提高；同时基础结构纱的存在，由于其相对低的回潮率，则在几何尺寸方面几乎没有变化。因此也造成了织物表面的不平整。同时由于基础结构纱的存在，在纵向变形纱伸长后，作用到织物上的外力几乎都由基础结构纱承担，因此也对粘胶类织物湿强度低的问题也有所改进。
实例二
在实例一的基础上，也可以在建构如下的斜纹结构。在此结构中经纱增加一条C4，其材料与C1特性相同。纬纱的设计与入纬次序的安排与实例一相同。主要的改变就是如实例一的平纹组织结构，纱线是一上一下，改变成二上一下的斜纺结构。由图5已经可以得到织物吸湿后，横向变形纱的变粗，带动了纵向变形纱的上升，横向变形纱所在位置织物的厚度也相应变厚，带动纵向变形纱与相临纱线排列的间隙，同时纵向变形纱在伸长过程中的变细又进一步强化了这一间隙增大的趋势。因此，图5清楚地揭示本发明的织物设计方法可以在多种织物结构上实现，同时，业内人士可以在本发明原理的指导下实现多种不同的结构与材料的组合。
图5斜纹梭织面料计算实例
实例三 纬编单面织物
(a)平纹织物本发明示例之基本单元(b)该基本单元吸湿后变化的示意图
图6本发明示例之基本单元及变形示意
图6是以纬编其中一种结构和纱线组合，同样是利用本发明原理。在服用的过程中织物自身热湿传递特性在人体热舒适性方面起到关键的作用，需要根据穿着者不同的运动状态(新陈代谢率)平衡服装的保温散热之功效。
图6(a)基本单元展示了织物在非显性出汗条件下状态，L1黑色(经编相同表示)为横向变形纱、L2灰色(经编相同表示)为纵向变形纱、L3白色(经编相同表示)为基础结构纱。(b)当运动出汗后织物纵向变形纱，吸湿后显著变细与伸长，如H’>H。L3基础结构纱基本保持原有形状，从而保证织物在运动出汗后仍然具有较强稳定性。因此织物的结构特性将会形成三种变化结果：
1.从图6织物俯视图上看,吸湿后纵向变形纱变细伸长。因为基础结构纱几何尺寸的稳定性，圈弧的大小可以保持不变，而圈柱变长也就等同于H’>H。那么线圈的面积也会变大，提供的散热气孔面积也相应加大。
2.运动出汗后，同梭织的原理一样，横截面方向有横向变形纱的截面直径变大。由于横向变形纱吸湿直径变大导致织物横截面积变大出汗后织物提供的透气孔变大。
3.织物中同时存在基础结构纱与纵向、横向变形纱，因此织物将会在厚度方向及长宽方向吸湿后同时发生部分变形，这会造成原先平整的织物表面形成起伏而不平整。进而在穿着出汗时能有效地减少织物与皮肤接触的面积。
有关织物纱线在吸湿变粗或变长后能增加织物结构中的空隙我们可以利用基本的几何原理加以验证，计算原理和方法参考图3
以上发明原理双面织物及其变化组织织物同样包括在内
实例四 经编织物
图7本发明经编俯视示例之基本单元及变形示意
(a)平纹织物本发明示例之基本单元(b)该基本单元吸湿后变化的示意图
(a)平纹织物本发明示例之基本单元(b)该基本单元吸湿后变化的示意图
图7、图8是以经编其中一种结构和纱线组合，同样是利用本发明原理。在服用的过程中织物自身热湿传递特性在人体热舒适性方面起到关键的作用，需要根据穿着者不同的运动状态(新陈代谢率)平衡服装的保温散热之功效。
图7(a)基本单元展示了织物在非显性出汗条件下状态，黑色为横向变形纱、灰色为纵向变形纱、白色为基础结构纱。(b)当运动出汗后织物纵向变形纱，吸湿后显著变细与伸长，如H’>H。基础结构纱基本保持原有形状，从而保证织物在运动出汗后仍然具有较强稳定性，纵向的线圈密度基本不发生变化。因此织物的结构特性将会形成三种变化结果：
1.从图7织物俯视图上看,吸湿后纵向变形纱变细伸长。因为基础结构纱几何尺寸的稳定性，线圈的大小可以保持不变也就等同于D＝D’，而延展线为纵向变形纱吸湿变长也就等同于H’>H。那么线圈的面积也会变大，提供的散热气孔面积也相应加大。
2.从图8织物侧视图上看运动出汗后，同梭织的原理一样，横截面方向有横向变形纱的截面直径变大。由于横向变形纱吸湿直径变大导致织物横截高度变大，而纵向变形纱使延展线变长，两个线圈纵行之间的距离H’>H。根据几何原理计算横截面积会变大，从而使得出汗后织物提供的透气孔变大。
3.织物中同时存在基础结构纱与纵向、横向变形纱，因此织物将会在厚度方向及长宽方向吸湿后同时发生部分变形，这会造成原先平整的织物表面形成起伏而不平整。进而在穿着出汗时能有效地减少织物与皮肤接触的面积。
有关织物纱线在吸湿变粗或变长后能增加织物结构中的空隙我们可以利用基本的几何原理加以验证，计算原理和方法参考图3。
以上发明原理经编双面织物同样包括在内。

Claims (9)

  1. 一种柔性织物，其可以根据穿着者在不同运动量状态下其皮肤表面汗水积累量的不同而调节面料自身透气能力，包括多个由经纱及纬编织而形成的通透空隙，其特点在于所述通透空隙的大小随着皮肤表面汗水积累量的不同而发生相应的变化，汗水积累量增大该通透空隙也随之增大，由此该柔性织物的透气量在织物吸湿后得到增强。
  2. 根据权利要求1的柔性织物，包括三种纱线：(1)纵向变形纱；(2)横向变形纱；(3)基础结构纱，其中，纵向变形纱在吸湿后横向直径变细,纵向长度伸长；横向变形纱吸湿后横向直径显著变粗,纵向长度变短或不变；基础结构纱吸湿后纤维几何特性无明显变化。
  3. 根据权利要求2的柔性织物，其中纵向变形纱为经纱，至少占经纱的5％，其吸水后的纵向伸长率大于2％。
  4. 根据权利要求2的柔性织物，其中纵向变形纱为纬纱，至少占纬纱的5％，其吸水后的纵向伸长率大于2％。
  5. 根据权利要求3的柔性织物，其中横向变形纱为纬纱，占纬纱的50％则最多50％的纱线可以配合采用横向变形纱，其回潮率大于3％。
  6. 根据权利要求4的柔性织物，其中横向变形纱为经纱，至多占经纱的50％则最多50％的纱线可以配合采用横向变形纱，其回潮率大于3％。
  7. 根据权利要求1的柔性织物，其为单面织物或双面织物，经梭织，经编，或纬编而成。
  8. 一种制造可以根据穿着者在不同运动量状态下其皮肤表面汗水积累量的不同而调节面料自身透气能力柔性织物的方法，包括以下步骤：
    a.首先选择纵向变形纱，放在GB1或者其他梳节采用一定垫纱结构，穿纱方法采用满穿或者任何空穿方法。其纵向伸长变能力至少大于2％。同时纱线的优选采用量大于50％，可以直至100％。
    b.横向变形纱放在GB2或者其他梳节采用一定垫纱结构，穿纱方法采用满穿或者任何空穿方法。选择可以根据纱线材料的公定回潮率进行选择，在本发明中要求纤维的公定回潮率>3％，优选>7％。
    c.基础结构纱放在GB3或者其他梳节采用一定垫纱结构，穿纱方法采用满穿或者任何空穿方法。选择此纱线要求其吸湿后横向膨涨变形量<1％,因此要求纤维的公定回潮率<13％，优选<7％。
  9. 根据权利要求8的方法，其中所述柔性织物为单面织物或双面织物。
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