WO2022193346A1 - 一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料 - Google Patents

一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料 Download PDF

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WO2022193346A1
WO2022193346A1 PCT/CN2021/082793 CN2021082793W WO2022193346A1 WO 2022193346 A1 WO2022193346 A1 WO 2022193346A1 CN 2021082793 W CN2021082793 W CN 2021082793W WO 2022193346 A1 WO2022193346 A1 WO 2022193346A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
skin
unit
fabric
knitting
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PCT/CN2021/082793
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English (en)
French (fr)
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赵晓娟
胡军岩
翟国钧
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东莞超盈纺织有限公司
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Publication of WO2022193346A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022193346A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/104—Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and relates to a single-sided weft knitted fabric, in particular to a light, thin, and soft fabric with the characteristics of thermal insulation and differential moisture conduction of liquid water on both sides of the fabric, so that the human skin surface is always kept dry and comfortable. Knitted fabric.
  • the weft-knitted single-sided and unidirectional wet knitted fabrics in the prior art are mainly divided into two categories.
  • One is to use a coating or printing process to print water-repellent patterns on one side of the existing textile fabrics by means of post-finishing to achieve fabrics.
  • the two sides have different moisture-conducting capabilities, or the pre-treatment of the yarn is water-repellent so that the fabric made of this yarn is conducive to the unidirectional moisture-conducting function;
  • the structure-based double-sided change organizational structure is designed to realize the difference in the transfer ability of liquid water in the fabric skin-facing surface layer and the clothing surface layer.
  • Patent application CN202010881143.3 "A polyester hooded cotton unidirectional wet-guiding school uniform fabric and its preparation process" discloses a knitted fabric comprising an inner layer and an outer layer, the inner layer fabric is made of 110dtex/130f polyester low-elasticity Silk, the outer fabric is made of 13-16tex cotton yarn.
  • the preparation process includes the following steps: S1 pretreatment; S2 dyeing; S3 hair removal; S4 posttreatment; S5 molding, and the fabric thus formed has the characteristics of unidirectional wettability, quick drying and air permeability.
  • Patent application CN201911344139.7 discloses a unidirectional conductive fabric formed by combining functional materials and fabrics by coating.
  • the main steps include: (1 ) adopt silane coupling agent to carry out hydrophobic modification to gas-phase nano-silica, disperse it in absolute ethanol, and make hydrophobic gas-phase nano-silica absolute ethanol dispersion; (2) hydrophobic gas-phase nano-silica Anhydrous ethanol dispersion is mixed with fluorine-containing water-repellent agent to prepare a water-repellent coating agent; (3) a single-sided spacer coating is applied to cotton fabrics with a water-repellent coating agent, and after pre-baking and baking, a multi-functional Single guide wet cotton fabric.
  • Patent application CN201922433023.2 discloses a unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric comprising a waterproof inner layer, a unidirectional moisture-conducting point, a fabric inner layer, a fabric surface layer and a hydrophilic outer layer.
  • the waterproof inner layer and The unidirectional wet point is located at the innermost side and is in contact with the human body; the inner side of the fabric inner layer is compounded with a waterproof inner layer through a printing process, and the outer side is combined with a fabric surface layer by a bonding method.
  • the outer side is compounded with a hydrophilic outer layer through a pad-rolling-baking-baking process, and the hydrophilic outer layer is located at the outermost side to realize the function of unidirectional conduction.
  • Patent application CN201811027306.0 discloses a multi-functional unidirectional wet-guiding fabric which is a double knitted mesh fabric, which is woven through a double knitting machine to form a grey fabric with a double-sided structure.
  • the inner layer is formed by the weaving method of the tuck to form a mesh structure
  • the surface area of the outer layer of the grey fabric is greater than the inner layer
  • the yarn forming the inner layer is polyethylene yarn or polyethylene composite fiber yarn, forming
  • the outer layer yarn is a yarn with good water absorption, which is cool and smooth, easy to dye, and has the functions of unidirectional moisture conduction and UV resistance.
  • the one-way conduction function is realized through technologies such as post-finishing and structural design.
  • the unidirectional conduction fabric realized by finishing methods such as printing or coating has poor washing resistance, hard feeling and dryness, which affects the softness and comfort when wearing. And this process is suitable for flat cloth surface, not suitable for cloth types with fluff or concave-convex structure on the reverse side, and the fabric body is relatively heavy, which makes it feel oppressive when wearing, and lacks thermal insulation performance; in the previous double-sided patented fabric through the structure
  • Design a single conduction function realized by the combination of raw materials.
  • the clothing surface adopts a mesh structure
  • the skin-facing surface adopts a plain weave structure. Because the plain weave structure has few gaps, it is not conducive to the contact and diffusion of sweat to the absorbent material on the clothing surface.
  • the present invention provides a light, soft, and differentiated single-sided weft knitted fabric with moisture conductivity, and the following technical solutions are specifically adopted:
  • a light, soft, and differentiated moisture-conducting single-side weft knitted fabric comprising a fabric body, the fabric body including first yarns interwoven with each other and woven through weft-knitted single-side plain weave and/or single-side variable weave structure Y 1 and the second yarn Y 2 ; the fabric body has a garment surface and a skin-adhering surface, and the skin-adhering surface has a geometrically discontinuous convex area; in a unit area, the garment surface is formed by looping and collecting It is composed of loop structure.
  • the skin-adhering surface contains at least one yarn for knitting a non-loop knitting unit, and the length of the non-loop knitting unit on the skin-facing surface is ⁇ 4 needles; and used for The area of the yarn knitting the non-loop knitting unit is less than or equal to 70% of the unit area in the total number of paths of a unit cycle weave structure.
  • the ratio of the yarn coverage area of the clothing surface to the yarn coverage area of the skin-facing surface is greater than 1.5;
  • the unit coverage area of the thread S 1 5.42D 2 ;
  • the unit coverage area of the garment surface yarn S 2 6.928D 2 ; wherein, D is the inner radius of the semicircle of the needle knitting arc and the sinker arc.
  • the moisture conductivity of the first yarn Y1 is greater than the moisture conductivity of the second yarn Y2 , and the ratio of the moisture conductivity of the second yarn to the moisture conductivity of the first yarn More than 1.2, the second yarn Y 2 is woven on the non-skin surface.
  • the first yarn Y 1 is one or at least two blended yarns of polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, vegetable fiber and regenerated cellulose fiber.
  • the second yarn Y 2 is one or at least two blended yarns of polypropylene, polyester fibers, plant fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, and the surface contact angle ⁇ 2 ⁇ 45°.
  • the garment surface is a jacquard weave structure in which a loop-forming knitting unit and a tuck knitting unit are combined, or a plain jersey weave structure.
  • the ratio of the number of loop knitting units to tuck knitting units per unit area of the garment surface is greater than 1 and less than or equal to 3.
  • the ratio of the loop-forming knitting unit to the non-looping knitting unit of the skin-facing surface is between 1:1 and 1:3.
  • the skin-adhering surface is treated with a raised surface to form a raised surface, so as to improve the thermal insulation capability of the fabric, improve the wearing comfort and increase the unidirectional transfer index of liquid water.
  • the fabric body also includes spandex elastic fibers.
  • the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: a single-sided weft knitting knitting machine is used, wherein the garment surface of the fabric is composed of loop-forming and tuck structures to form tiny holes for enhancing air convection; Composition increases breathability. And in a unit cycle structure, at least one yarn of the fabric garment surface has the action of not participating in looping weaving, and this non-looping action accounts for ⁇ 70% of the unit area of the total number of channels in a unit cycle structure.
  • the first yarn Y 1 is a low water conductivity yarn
  • the second yarn Y 2 is a high water conductivity yarn.
  • the second yarn Y 2 is a non-skin surface, which reduces the probability of the high water-conductivity yarn in contact with the skin, thereby reducing the sticky feeling after sweating and slowing down the horizontal diffusion of moisture on the skin surface.
  • the present invention thus obtained has the characteristics of differentiated moisture-conducting ability, lightness, and softness, so that the skin-facing surface is always kept dry, comfortable, and non-sticky.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the unit coverage area of yarn in a coil of the present invention
  • Embodiment 1 of the present invention is a schematic structural diagram of Embodiment 1 of the present invention.
  • Example 3 is a schematic diagram of the yarn unit coverage area of Example 1 of the present invention.
  • Example 4 is a measurement curve of the difference in water content between the bottom surface and the surface of Example 1 of the present invention.
  • a light, soft, and differentiated moisture-conducting single-side weft knitted fabric woven using a single-side weft knitting loom, and comprising a fabric body, the fabric body including interweaving, and by weft knitting single-side plain weave and/or single-side weft knitted fabric.
  • a loop-forming knitting unit and a loop-forming knitting unit are formed; in a unit circulation organization of the fabric body, the skin-facing surface contains at least one yarn for knitting the non-loop-forming knitting unit, while the non-loop-forming knitting on the skin-facing surface contains at least one yarn.
  • the length of the unit is less than or equal to 4 needles; and the area of the yarn used for knitting the non-looped knitting unit is less than or equal to 70% of the unit area of the total number of loops in a unit cycle weave structure.
  • the loop knitting unit and the tuck knitting unit structure on the garment surface can form tiny holes that enhance air convection and improve the air convection effect.
  • the first yarn Y1 is a low water conductivity yarn
  • the second yarn Y2 is a high water conductivity yarn
  • the moisture conductivity of the first yarn Y1 is greater than that of the second yarn Y 2
  • the ratio of the moisture conductivity of the second yarn to the moisture conductivity of the first yarn is greater than 1.2
  • the second yarn Y 2 is woven on the non-skin surface, so that high conductivity The probability of the hydrodynamic yarn coming into contact with the skin is reduced, thereby reducing the sticky feel after sweating and slowing down the horizontal diffusion of moisture on the skin surface.
  • the Peirce loop model assumes that the yarn is completely in an ideal state in the fabric, neither stretched nor compressed, and the cross-section is a uniform circle; the needle knitting arc and sinker arc of the stitch are approximated by a semicircle, and the needle knitting arc and the sinker arc are approximated by a semicircle.
  • the subsidence arcs are connected by a straight line; the needle knitting arc in the next row is tangent to the subsidence arc in the previous row, and the two adjacent subsidence arcs or the two adjacent needle knitting arcs are also tangent, and the needle knitting arc and the subsidence arc are semicircular.
  • Its outer radius is 2D
  • the inner circle radius is D
  • the cylinder height is h:
  • the unit structure of the skin-facing surface and the garment surface shown in Figure 1 is formed by alternately knitting the first yarn Y 1 and the second yarn Y 2 : according to the Peirce loop model, it can be obtained that in one loop, the skin-facing veil
  • the unit coverage area of the line S 1 the area of the outer circle - the area of the inner circle
  • the unit coverage area of the garment surface yarn S 2 h loop column ⁇ D ⁇ 2
  • the moisture conductivity of the first yarn Y 1 is greater than the moisture conductivity of the second yarn Y 2 , and D Y2 : D Y1 is greater than 1.2, and the second yarn with high moisture conductivity is woven. on the non-skin side.
  • the first yarn Y 1 can be polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, vegetable fiber, regenerated cellulose fiber and blended yarn thereof.
  • the second yarn Y 2 is one or a blended yarn of at least two of polypropylene, polyester fibers, plant fibers, and regenerated cellulose fibers, and its surface contact angle ⁇ 2 ⁇ 45°.
  • the garment surface is a jacquard weave structure in which a loop-forming knitting unit and a tuck weaving unit are combined, or a plain jersey weave structure.
  • the ratio of the number of loop knitting units to tuck knitting units per unit area of the garment surface is greater than 1 and less than or equal to 3, so that the cloth surface has a micro-porous texture, which enhances the convection between the air, thereby increasing the breathability of the fabric.
  • the ratio of the loop-forming knitting units to the non-looping knitting units of the skin-facing surface is between 1:1 and 1:3.
  • the skin-facing surface of the knitted fabric can be raised to form a thermal insulation layer, thereby increasing the thickness of the fabric to facilitate the differential transfer of liquid water.
  • the skin-adhering surface is subjected to a fleece treatment to form a thermal insulation layer, so as to improve the thermal insulation capability of the fabric, improve the wearing comfort, and increase the unidirectional transfer index of liquid water, thereby reducing the probability of the yarn contacting the skin and increasing the
  • the thickness of the fabric is conducive to the differential transfer of liquid water, which improves the softness and comfort of the hand.
  • Spandex elastic fibers are added to the knitted fabric, and the spandex content is greater than 5%, thereby improving the elasticity and quality of the fabric body.
  • the fabric weight of the fabric body is less than 200g/m2, and it is light to wear and has no sense of oppression.
  • the production process used for the fabric body is: yarn ⁇ grey fabric weaving ⁇ high temperature reservation ⁇ overflow dyeing ⁇ setting. After the setting, the finished fabric has a gram weight of 130g/m2, and the skin-adhering surface is treated with fleece to increase warmth retention and comfortable wearing. Soft and lightweight without being oppressive.
  • the first yarn Y 1 adopts ordinary C-section polyester, PES 80D/144F; the second yarn Y 2 adopts ordinary circular section polyester, PES 30D/24F.
  • the two yarns are intertwined to form the fabric body, and form a weft-knitted single-sided plain weave.
  • the fabric body has a garment surface and a skin-adhering surface, the garment surface is composed of loop-forming and tuck structures, and the first yarn Y 1 and the second yarn Y 2 are woven to form the garment surface.
  • the skin-adhering surface is composed of loop and tuck or float structure.
  • the second yarn Y 2 is knitted on the skin-facing surface to form a non-loop knitting unit; the first yarn Y 1 is exposed on the skin-facing surface to form a geometrically discontinuous convex area.
  • the equivalent radius of the first yarn Y 1 (80D/144F) polyester monofilament is:
  • the contact angle of the first yarn Y 1 ( in this example is 55°, and the contact angle of the second yarn Y 2 is 63°.
  • the knitted fabric is in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics Liquid "Moisture management performance" was measured.
  • the fabric body measured this time has an OWTC (one way transport capability) of 240%.
  • the first yarn Y 1 and the second yarn Y 2 are both made of ordinary polyester (PES 80D/144F) interwoven to form a weft-knitted single-sided plain fabric with a contact angle of 55°. In a unit cycle organization, it is also composed of two first yarns Y1 and one second yarn Y2 .
  • the knitted fabrics described above were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the OWTC one way transport capability of this fabric was measured to be 80%.
  • the present invention makes the fabric light, thin, and soft, and greatly improves the unidirectional wettability of the fabric, and can keep the skin-facing surface of the fabric body dry and comfortable for a long time.
  • Example 1 150D/288F polyester is used as the first yarn Y 1 and 40D/36F polypropylene is used as the second yarn Y 2 .
  • the two yarns are intertwined to form the fabric body, and are subjected to pile processing.
  • the second yarn Y 2 is the yarn of the non-loop knitting unit of the skin-adhering surface;
  • the first yarn Y 1 is exposed on the skin-adhering surface and is a geometrically discontinuous convex area.
  • the equivalent radius of the first yarn Y 1 (150D/288F) polyester monofilament is:
  • the contact angle of the first yarn Y 1 in this example is 58°, and the contact angle of the second yarn Y 2 is 71°.
  • the knitted fabrics were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the fabric body measured this time has an OWTC (one way transport capability) of 320%.
  • the first yarn Y 1 and the second yarn Y 2 are both made of ordinary polyester (150D/288F) interwoven to form a weft knitted single-sided fabric, and the structure is the same as that of Example 1.
  • the contact angle of the yarn was 56°. In a unit cycle organization, it is also composed of two first yarns Y1 and one second yarn Y2 .
  • the knitted fabrics described above were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the OWTC one way transport capability of this fabric was measured to be 90%.
  • the present invention makes the fabric light, thin and soft by modifying the structure and yarn count of the fabric and adding fleece treatment, and greatly improves the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the fabric, and can maintain the fabric body for a long time. Dry and comfortable on the skin.
  • the first yarn Y 1 polyester (PES 80D/144F) and the second yarn Y 2 : nylon 66 (50D/48F) are used, and the two yarns are intertwined to form the fabric body, And form a weft knitted single-sided fabric.
  • the equivalent radius of the first yarn Y 1 (80D/144F) polyester monofilament is:
  • the contact angle of the first yarn Y 1 80D/144F
  • the contact angle of the second yarn Y 2 50D/48F
  • the knitted fabrics were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the fabric body measured this time has an OWTC (one way transport capability) of 280%.
  • the present invention can make the fabric light, thin and soft by modifying the structure and yarn count of the fabric and adding the fleece treatment, and greatly improves the fabric quality.
  • One-way wetting capability is adopted.
  • the first yarn Y 1 polyester (200D/256F) and the second yarn Y 2 : polyester (30D/24F) are used, and the two yarns are intertwined to form the fabric body, and form Weft knitted single-sided fabric.
  • the second yarn Y 2 (30D/24F) is the yarn of the non-loop knitting unit of the skin-facing surface;
  • the first yarn Y 1 (200D/256F) is exposed on the skin-facing surface and is geometrically discontinuous Raised area.
  • the equivalent radius of the first yarn Y 1 (200D/256F) polyester monofilament is:
  • the contact angle of the first yarn Y 1 (200D/256F) in this example is 52° and the contact angle of the second yarn Y 2 (30D/24F) is 68°.
  • the knitted fabrics were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the fabric body measured this time has an OWTC (one way transport capability) of 330%.
  • the first yarn Y 1 and the second yarn Y 2 are both interwoven with polyester (200D/256F) to form a weft-knitted single-sided fabric, and the structure is the same as that of Example 1.
  • the contact angle of the yarn was 48°. In a unit cycle organization, it also consists of a first yarn Y 1 (200D/256F) and a second yarn Y 2 (200D/256F).
  • the knitted fabrics described above were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the OWTC one way transport capability of this fabric was measured to be 90%.
  • the present invention makes the fabric light, thin and soft by modifying the structure and yarn count of the fabric and adding raising treatment, and greatly improves the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the fabric.
  • Example 1 an elastic yarn (such as spandex) is added, and the first yarn Y 1 is made of ordinary polyester (80D/144F); the second yarn Y 2 is made of polyester (75D/72F).
  • the three yarns are intertwined to form the fabric body, and form the weft knitted single side.
  • the fabric body has a garment surface and a skin-facing surface, and the spandex is used as the binding yarn of the fabric body.
  • the garment surface is composed of loop and tuck structures, and the first yarn Y 1 (80D/144F) and the second yarn Y 2 (75D/72F) constitute the garment surface.
  • the skin-adhering surface is composed of loop and tuck or float structure.
  • spandex is used as the binding yarn, and the area occupied by it is very small, and the area can be ignored.
  • the equivalent radius of the first yarn Y 1 (80D/144F) polyester monofilament is:
  • the contact angle of the first yarn Y 1 (80D/144F) in this example is 61° and the contact angle of the second yarn Y 2 (75D/72F) is 69°.
  • the knitted fabrics were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics". The fabric body measured this time has an OWTC (one way transport capability) of 290%.
  • the present invention makes the fabric light, thin, soft, and greatly improved by modifying the structure and yarn count of the fabric, and adding a raising treatment. Improves the unidirectional wetting ability of the fabric.
  • a single-sided plain weave fabric is composed of two first yarns Y 1 (80D/144F) and one second yarn Y 2 (30D/24F).
  • Y 1 80D/144F
  • Y 2 30D/24F
  • the equivalent radius of the first yarn Y 1 80D/144F polyester monofilament is:
  • the contact angle of the first yarn Y 1 (80D/144F) in this example is 55° and the contact angle of the second yarn Y 2 (30D/24F) is 63°.
  • the knitted fabrics were measured in accordance with the standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the fabric body measured this time has an OWTC (one way transport capability) of 280%.
  • the same yarn count and structure are used as in Comparative Example 1.
  • the first yarn Y 1 and the second yarn Y 2 are interwoven with polyester (80D/144F) to form a weft knitted single-sided fabric.
  • the structure is the same as that of Example 1.
  • the contact angle of the yarn was 53°.
  • the OWTC (one way transport capability) of this fabric was measured to be 80%.
  • the present invention makes the fabric light, thin and soft by modifying the structure and yarn count of the fabric, and greatly improves the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the fabric.
  • the spun yarn is not close to the skin, and the difference in the capillary water conductivity of the two surfaces of the fabric is obviously enhanced, so as to achieve the purpose of "keeping the skin surface of the human body dry and comfortable", and at the same time.
  • the present invention has lightness, softness and differential moisture conductivity.
  • the knitted fabric can meet people's demands for wearing comfort, functionality and practicability, has a wide range of applications, and has good market prospects and economic and social benefits.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，包括面料本体，面料本体包括互相交织，且通过纬编单面变化组织结构编织的第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2；面料本体具有服装面与贴肤面，并且贴肤面有几何不连续凸起区域；在单位面积内，服装面由成圈与集圈结构构成，贴肤面由成圈与集圈或浮线结构构成；在面料本体的一个单位循环组织中，贴肤面至少含有一路用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线；且用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线的面积在一个单位循环组织结构总路数中的单位面积≤70％。

Description

一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料 技术领域
本发明属于纺织面料技术领域，涉及一种单面纬编针织面料，尤其涉及一种轻薄、柔软并具有保暖性能及织物两面液态水差别化导湿的特性，使得人体肌肤面始终保持干爽舒适的针织面料。
背景技术
随着科技的发展及人们生活水平的提高，人们对穿着和家居用品除了美观提出越来越多功能性、舒适性的要求。在夏季炎热天气，人体对纺织面料的诉求主要是轻薄和干爽。为了考虑面料轻质感，市场往往选用单面面料制作夏季成衣，但此类面料在人体大量出汗后，接触身体的面料不吸汗，人体会感觉闷热；而吸湿能力好的面料，被汗水浸湿后感觉到冷感且干燥往往需要一段时间，在这段时间内面料容易粘附在人体身上影响透气性，因此具备单向导湿功能的纺织品面料因需而生，满足了人们对穿着的要求，也将会受到广大消费者和市场的青睐。
现有技术的纬编单面单向导湿针织面料主要分为两大类，一类是通过后整理的办法对现有纺织面料的其中一面利用涂层或者印花工艺印制拒水图案以达到织物二面有不同导湿能力，或对纱线进行拒水的前处理使得由此纱线制成的织物以利于单向导湿功能；另一类是利用异形截面的纱线搭配或以双面组织结构为主的双面变化组织结构设计来实现液态水在织物贴肤面层和服装面层的传递能力来实现差 异性。
专利申请CN202010881143.3，“一种涤盖棉单向导湿校服面料及其制备工艺”，公开了一种包括内层和外层的针织面料，所述内层面料由110dtex/130f的涤纶低弹丝制成，所述外层面料由13‐16tex的棉纱制成。其制备工艺包括以下步骤：S1前处理；S2染色；S3除毛；S4后处理；S5成型，由此形成的面料具有单向导湿、快干、透气的特点。
专利申请CN201911344139.7，“一种多功能单向导湿棉织物的制备方法”，公开了一种用涂布的方式，将功能材料与织物结合形成的单向传导面料，主要步骤包括：(1)采用硅烷偶联剂对气相纳米二氧化硅进行疏水改性，将其在无水乙醇中分散，制成疏水气相纳米二氧化硅无水乙醇分散液；(2)将疏水气相纳米二氧化硅无水乙醇分散液与含氟拒水剂混合，配制拒水涂层剂；(3)采用拒水涂层剂对棉织物进行单面间隔涂层整理，预烘、焙烘之后，得到多功能单向导湿棉织物。
专利申请CN201922433023.2，“一种单向导湿面料”，公开了一种包括防水内层、单向导湿点、织物里层、织物表层和亲水外层的单向导湿面料，防水内层和单向导湿点位于最内侧，与人体接触；织物里层的内侧通过印花工艺复合有防水内层，外侧通过接结法结合有织物表层，织物里层的内侧为单向导湿点，织物表层的外侧通过浸‐轧‐烘‐焙工艺复合有亲水外层且亲水外层位于最外侧来实现单向传导的功能。
专利申请CN201811027306.0，“一种多功能单向导湿面料”，公 开一种多功能单向导湿面料为双面针织网眼布，通过双面针织机进行织造形成双面结构的坯布，所述坯布的里层是通过集圈的织法形成网孔结构，所述坯布外层的表面积大于所述里层，形成所述里层的纱线为聚乙烯纱线或聚乙烯复合纤维纱线，形成所述外层纱线为吸水性好的纱线，具有冰凉滑爽、易于染色并具有单向导湿和抗紫外线功能。
综合上述先有的专利面料通过后整理、结构设计等技术来实现了单向传导功能。以印花或涂层等后整理方式实现的单向传导面料其单向传导功能耐水洗性能差、感偏硬及干涩，影响了穿着时的柔软感与舒适性。且此工艺适用于平整的布面，不适用于反面具有绒毛或者凹凸结构的布种，而面料本体也较为厚重使得穿着时有压迫感，保温性能也欠缺；在先有双面专利面料通过结构设计结合原料搭配实现的单项传导功能，如服装面采用网眼结构，而贴肤面采用平纹等结构，由于平纹结构空隙少，不利于汗液向服装面吸水材料接触及扩散。
发明内容
为了解决上述技术问题，本发明提供了一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，具体采用以下技术方案：
一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，包括面料本体，所述面料本体包括互相交织，且通过纬编单面平纹和/或单面变化组织结构编织的第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2；所述面料本体具有服装面与贴肤面，并且所述贴肤面有几何不连续凸起区域；在单位面积内，所述服装面由成圈与集圈结构构成，所述贴肤面由成圈与集圈或浮线结构构成，服装面上形成有成圈编织单元、集圈编织单元，贴肤面上 形成有成圈编织单元、不成圈编织单元；在面料体的一个单位循环组织中，所述贴肤面至少含有一路用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线，同时贴肤面上的不成圈编织单元的长度≤4针；且用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线的面积在一个单位循环组织结构总路数中的单位面积≤70％。
进一步，所述服装面的纱线覆盖面积与所述贴肤面的纱线覆盖面积之比大于1.5；所述服装面覆盖面积S F为：S F＝mS Y1+nS Y2；所述贴肤面的纱线覆盖面积S B为：S B＝mS Y1+W×nS Y2，式中
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000001
m为单位循环组织中第一纱线的个数，n为单位循环组织中第二纱线的个数；并且所述面料本体的单位循环组织中一个编织的线圈内，所述贴肤面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 1＝5.42D 2；所述服装面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 2＝6.928D 2；其中，D为针编弧与沉降弧半圆的内圆半径。
进一步，所述第一纱线Y 1的导湿能力大于所述第二纱线Y 2的导湿能力,并且所述第二纱线导湿能力和所述第一纱线导湿能力的比值大于1.2，所述第二纱线Y 2为编织在非贴肤面。
进一步，所述第一纱线Y 1为聚酯纤维、聚酰胺纤维、植物纤维和再生纤维素纤维中的一种或至少两种混纺纱。
进一步，所述第二纱线Y 2为聚丙烯、聚酯类纤维、植物纤维和再生纤维素纤维中的一种或至少两种其混纺纱,表面接触角θ 2≥45°。
进一步，所述服装面为成圈编织单元与集圈编织单元相结合的提花组织结构，或者平纹汗布组织结构。
进一步，所述服装面在单位面积中成圈编织单元与集圈编织单元 的数量比值为大于1而小于等于3。
进一步，所述贴肤面的成圈编织单元与不成圈编织单元的比例在1:1至1:3之间。
进一步，所述贴肤面进行起绒处理形成起绒面，用以提高所述织物的保暖能力及改善穿着的舒适性并增大液态水单向传递指数。
进一步，所述面料本体还包括氨纶弹性纤维。
本发明的有益效果：使用单面纬编针织织机，其中织物服装面由成圈与集圈结构构成，形成增强空气对流的微小孔；织物贴肤面由成圈，集圈及浮线结构构成增加透气性。且在一个单位循环组织中织物服装面至少有一路纱线具有不参加成圈编织的动作，此不成圈动作在一个单位循环组织结构中占总路数≤70％的单位面积。所述第一纱线Y 1为低导水能力纱，所述第二纱线Y 2为高导水能力纱。所述第二纱线Y 2为非贴肤面，使得高导水能力纱与皮肤接触的概率下降，从而降低了出汗后湿粘感以及减缓了水分在贴肤面的水平扩散。由此所得的本发明具有差别化导湿能力和轻薄、柔软的特点，使贴肤面始终保持干爽舒适不粘腻。
附图说明：
图1为本发明的一个线圈内纱线单位覆盖面积示意图；
图2为本发明的实施例1结构原理图；
图3为本发明的实施例1纱线单位覆盖面积示意图；
图4为本发明的实施例1底面与表面水含量差异测量曲线。
具体实施方式：
下面将结合本发明实施例中的附图，对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围，请参阅图1-图4。
一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，使用单面纬编针织织机编织，包括面料本体，所述面料本体包括互相交织，且通过纬编单面平纹和/或单面变化组织结构编织的第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2；所述面料本体具有服装面与贴肤面，并且所述贴肤面有几何不连续凸起区域；在单位面积内，所述服装面由成圈与集圈结构构成，所述贴肤面由成圈与集圈或浮线结构构成，服装面上形成有成圈编织单元、集圈编织单元，贴肤面上形成有成圈编织单元、不成圈编织单元；在面料体的一个单位循环组织中，所述贴肤面至少含有一路用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线，同时贴肤面上的不成圈编织单元的长度≤4针；且用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线的面积在一个单位循环组织结构总路数中的单位面积≤70％。服装面的成圈编织单元和集圈编织单元结构，可形成增强空气对流的微小孔，提高空气对流效果。
所述第一纱线Y 1为低导水能力纱，所述第二纱线Y 2为高导水能力纱,所述第一纱线Y 1的导湿能力大于所述第二纱线Y 2的导湿能力,并且所述第二纱线导湿能力和所述第一纱线导湿能力的比值大于1.2，所述第二纱线Y 2为编织在非贴肤面，使得高导水能力纱与皮肤接触的概率下降，从而降低了出汗后湿粘感以及减缓了水分在贴肤面的水平扩散。
所述服装面覆盖面积S F为：S F＝mS Y1+nS Y2；所述贴肤面覆盖面积S B为：S B＝mS Y1+W×nS Y2；式中
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000002
m为单位循环组织中第一纱 线的个数，n为单位循环组织中第二纱线的个数；并且所述面料本体的单位循环组织中一个线圈内，所述贴肤面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 1＝5.42D 2；所述服装面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 2＝6.928D 2；其中，D为针编弧与沉降弧半圆的内圆半径。
参考图1，根据Peirce经典纬编线圈模型可知:
Peirce线圈模型假定纱线在织物中完全处于理想状态，既不拉伸也不受压，横截面呈均匀一致的圆形；线圈针编弧与沉降弧部分用半圆来近似表示，针编弧与沉降弧用直线相连；下一横列的针编弧与上一横列的沉降弧相切，相邻的两个沉降弧或相邻的两个针编弧也相切，针编弧与沉降弧半圆的外半径为2D,内圆半径为D，其线圈模型如图1所示，外圆面积＝4πD 2,内圆面积＝πD 2；圆柱高为h:
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000003
由第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2交替编织而成形成图1所示的贴肤面和服装面的单位组织结构：根据Peirce线圈模型可得，一个线圈内，贴肤面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 1＝外圆面积-内圆面积
＝4πD 2-πD 2
＝3πD 2
＝9.42D 2‐4D 2
＝5.42D 2
一个线圈内，服装面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 2＝h 圈柱×D×2
＝h×D×2
＝3.464D×D×2
＝6.928D 2
作为本发明的进一步，所述第一纱线Y 1的导湿能力大于所述第二纱线Y 2的导湿能力，并且D Y2：D Y1大于1.2，高导湿的第二纱线编织在非贴肤面。所述第一纱线Y 1可以为聚酯纤维、聚酰胺纤维、植物纤维以及再生纤维素纤维及其混纺纱。
所述第二纱线Y 2为聚丙烯、聚酯类纤维、植物纤维、再生纤维素纤维中的一种或至少两种的混纺纱,其表面接触角θ 2≥45°。
所述服装面为成圈编织单元与集圈编织单元相结合的提花组织结构，或平纹汗布组织结构。
所述服装面在单位面积中成圈编织单元与集圈编织单元的数量比值为大于1而小于等于3，使得布面有微小孔肌理，增强空气间对流，从而增加面料的透气性能。
所述贴肤面成圈编织单元与不成圈编织单元的比例在1:1至1:3之间。
所述针织面料贴肤面可以进行起绒处理形成保暖层，从而增大织物厚度以利于液态水的差别化传递。
所述贴肤面进行起绒处理形成保暖层，以提高所述织物的保暖能力及改善穿着的舒适性并增大液态水单向传递指数，减少了纱线与皮肤接触的概率，增大了织物厚度以利于液态水的差别化传递，提升了手感的柔软舒适性。
所述针织面料加入氨纶弹性纤维,且氨纶含量大于5％，从而提升面料体的弹性及品质感。
所述面料本体的面料克重小于200g/m2，穿着轻盈，无压迫感。
所述面料本体采用的生产工艺为：纱线→坯布织造→高温预定→溢流染色→定型，其定型后成品面料克重为130g/m2，贴肤面进行起绒处理增加保暖性，穿着舒适柔软的同时轻薄而无压迫感。
实施例1：
第一纱线Y 1采用普通C型截面涤纶，PES 80D/144F；第二纱线Y 2选用普通圆形截面涤纶，PES 30D/24F。此二条纱线互相交织制成面料本体，且形成纬编单面平纹。面料本体具有服装面与贴肤面，所述服装面由成圈与集圈结构构成，第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2编织构成服装面。所述贴肤面由成圈与集圈或浮线结构构成。其中，第二纱线Y 2在贴肤面上编织形成不成圈编织单元；第一纱线Y 1露出在贴肤面，形成几何不连续凸起区域。一个单位循环组织中，由两条第一纱线Y 1和一条第二纱线Y 2组成,m＝2,n＝1。
如图1-3所示，本实施例中，贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积S B＝2S 1Y1+S 2y2×W；该针织物服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝2S 2y1+S 2y2。
第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000004
D Y1＝2×3.80＝7.6(μm)
同理,我们算出第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000005
D Y2＝2×5.70＝11.4(μm)
综上所述，该针织面料在一个单位循环组织结构中贴肤面纱线的 覆盖面积
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000007
该针织物在一个单位循环组织结构中服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝2S 2Y1+S 2Y2＝6.928D Y1 2×2+6.928D Y2 2
＝1700.69μm 2
由此，S F：S B＝1.39。
在本实例中第一纱线Y 1(的接触角为55°，第二纱线Y 2的接触角为63°。所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的面料本体其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为240％。
对比例1：
第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2均采用普通涤纶(PES 80D/144F)互相交织形成纬编单面平纹面料，接触角为55°。一个单位循环组织中，也由两条第一纱线Y 1和一条第二纱线Y 2组成。以上所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。测量出此面料的单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为80％。
两者对比可知，本发明通过对面料的结构和纱支的改性，面料轻薄、柔软，且大大提高了面料的单向导湿能力，能够长期保持所述面料本体的贴肤面的干爽舒适。
实施例2：
在实施例1的基础上，采用150D/288F涤纶为第一纱线Y 1和40D/36F丙纶为第二纱线Y 2。此二条纱线互相交织制成面料本体，并进行起绒处理。其中，第二纱线Y 2为所述贴肤面的不成圈编织单元的纱线；第一纱线Y 1露出在贴肤面，为其几何不连续凸起区域。服装面为提花结构，贴肤面具有绒毛区。一个单位循环组织中，由两条第一纱线Y 1和一条第二纱线Y 2组成,m＝2,n＝1。
本实施例中，贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积S B＝2S 1Y1+S 2y2×W；该针织物服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝2S 2y1+S 2y2。
第一纱线Y 1(150D/288F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000008
D Y1＝2×3.16＝6.32(μm)
同理,我们算出第二纱线Y 2(40D/36F)丙纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000009
D Y2＝2×4.47＝8.94(μm)
综上所述，本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000010
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000011
本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝2S 2Y1+S 2Y2＝6.928D Y1 2×2+6.928D Y2 2
＝1107.15μm 2
由此，S F：S B＝1.34。
在本实例中第一纱线Y 1的接触角为58°，第二纱线Y 2的接触角为71°。所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的面料本体其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为320％。
对比例2：
第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2均采用普通涤纶(150D/288F)互相交织形成纬编单面面料，结构与实施例1相同。纱线的接触角为56°。一个单位循环组织中，也由两条第一纱线Y 1和一条第二纱线Y 2组成。以上所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。测量出此面料的单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为90％。
两者对比可知，本发明通过对面料的结构和纱支的改性，并加起绒处理，使面料轻薄、柔软，且大大提高了面料的单向导湿能力，能够长期保持所述面料本体的贴肤面的干爽舒适。
实施例3：
在实施例1的基础上，采用第一纱线Y 1：涤纶(PES 80D/144F)和第二纱线Y 2：尼龙66(50D/48F)，此二条纱线互相交织制成面料本体，且形成纬编单面面料。其中，第二纱线Y 2为所述贴肤面的不成圈编织单元的纱线；第一纱线Y 1露出在贴肤面，为其几何不连续凸起区域。一个单位循环组织中，由四条第一纱线Y 1和三条第二纱线Y 2 组成,m＝4,n＝3。
本实施例中，贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积S B＝4S 1Y1；该针织物服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝4S 2y1+3S 2y2×W。
第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000012
D Y1＝2×3.80＝7.6(μm)
同理,我们算出第二纱线Y 2(50D/48F)尼龙66单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000013
D Y2＝2×4.47＝8.94(μm)
综上所述，本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000014
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000015
本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝4S 2Y1+3S 2Y2＝6.928D Y1 2×4+3×6.928D Y2 2
＝3261.78μm 2
由此，S F：S B＝1.22。
在本实例中第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)的接触角为58°，第二纱线Y 2(50D/48F)的接触角为71°。所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的面料本体其 单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为280％。
对比例3：
与对比例1采用同样的纱支和结构，根据测试结果对比可知，本发明通过对面料的结构和纱支的改性，并加起绒处理，使面料轻薄、柔软，且大大提高了面料的单向导湿能力。
实施例4：
在实施例1的基础上，采用第一纱线Y 1：涤纶(200D/256F)和第二纱线Y 2：涤纶(30D/24F)，此二条纱线互相交织制成面料本体，且形成纬编单面面料。其中，第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)为所述贴肤面的不成圈编织单元的纱线；第一纱线Y 1(200D/256F)露出在贴肤面，为其几何不连续凸起区域。一个单位循环组织中，由一条第一纱线Y 1(200D/256F)和一条第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)组成,m＝1,n＝1。
本实施例中，贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积S B＝S 1Y1+S 2y2×W；该针织物服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝S 2y1+S 2y2。
第一纱线Y 1(200D/256F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000016
D Y1＝2×4.77＝9.54(μm)
同理,我们算出第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000017
D Y2＝2×5.70＝11.4(μm)
综上所述，本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000018
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000019
本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝S 2Y1+S 2Y2＝6.928D Y1 2+6.928D Y2 2
＝1530.89μm 2
由此，S F：S B＝1.23。
在本实例中第一纱线Y 1(200D/256F)的接触角为52°，第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)的接触角为68°。所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的面料本体其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为330％。
对比例4：
第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2均采用涤纶(200D/256F)互相交织形成纬编单面面料，结构与实施例1相同。纱线的接触角为48°。一个单位循环组织中，也由一条第一纱线Y 1(200D/256F)和一条第二纱线Y 2(200D/256F)组成。以上所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。测量出此面料的单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为90％。
根据测试结果对比可知，本发明通过对面料的结构和纱支的改性，并加起绒处理，使面料轻薄、柔软，且大大提高了面料的单向导湿能力。
实施例5：
在实施例1中，增加弹性纱线(如氨纶)，且第一纱线Y 1采用普 涤纶(80D/144F)；第二纱线Y 2选用涤纶(75D/72F)。此三条纱线互相交织制成面料本体，且形成纬编单面。面料本体具有服装面与贴肤面，氨纶作为面料本体的绑纱。所述服装面由成圈与集圈结构构成，第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)和第二纱线Y 2(75D/72F)构成服装面。所述贴肤面由成圈与集圈或浮线结构构成。其中，第二纱线Y 2(75D/72F)为所述贴肤面的不成圈编织单元的纱线；第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)露出在贴肤面，为其几何不连续凸起区域。一个单位循环组织中，由两条第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)和一条第二纱线Y 2(75D/72F)组成,m＝2,n＝1。
本实施例中，氨纶作为绑纱，其占有的面积很小，可忽略面积。贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积S B＝2S 1Y1+S 2y2×W；该针织物服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝2S 2y1+S 2y2。
第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000020
D Y1＝2×3.80＝7.6(μm)
同理,算出第二纱线Y 2(75D/72F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000021
D Y2＝2×4.47＝8.94(μm)
综上所述，本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000022
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000023
本发明在一个单位循环组织结构中服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝2S 2Y1+S 2Y2＝6.928D Y1 2×2+6.928D Y2 2
＝1354.03μm 2
由此，S F：S B＝1.05。
在本实例中第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)的接触角为61°，第二纱线Y 2(75D/72F)的接触角为69°。所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的面料本体其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为290％。
对比例5：
增加氨纶，其他与对比例1采用同样的纱支和结构，根据测试结果对比可知，本发明通过对面料的结构和纱支的改性，并加起绒处理，使面料轻薄、柔软，且大大提高了面料的单向导湿能力。
实施例6：
与实施例1采用同样的纱线和结构：由两条第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)和一条第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)组成单面平纹面料。一个单位循环组织中，m＝1,n＝3。
本实施例中，贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积S B＝S 1Y1+3S 2y2×W；该针织物服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝S 2y1+3S 2y2。
第一纱线Y 180D/144F涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000024
D Y1＝2×3.80＝7.6(μm)
同理,我们算出第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)涤纶单丝当量半径为：
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000025
D Y2＝2×5.70＝11.4(μm)
综上所述，该针织物在一个单位循环组织结构中贴肤面纱线的覆盖面积
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000026
Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-000027
该针织物在一个单位循环组织结构中服装面纱线的覆盖面积S F＝S 2Y1+3S 2Y2＝6.928D Y1 2+6.928D Y2 2×3
＝3101.25μm 2
由此，S F：S B＝1.47。
在本实例中第一纱线Y 1(80D/144F)的接触角为55°，第二纱线Y 2(30D/24F)的接触角为63°。所述针织面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的面料本体其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为280％。
对比例6：
与对比例1采用同样的纱支和结构，第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2均采用涤纶(80D/144F)互相交织形成纬编单面面料，结构与实施例1相同。纱线的接触角为53°。测量出此面料的单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为80％。
根据测试结果对比可知，本发明通过对面料的结构和纱支的改性，使面料轻薄、柔软，且大大提高了面料的单向导湿能力。
由上述实例可以得到，通过利用粗纱和细纱的相互交织，使细纱 不贴肤，明显增强了织物二表面的毛细导水能力差别，以到达“使得人体肌肤面始终保持干爽舒适”的目的，同时本发明具有轻薄、柔软及差别化导湿能力。该针织面料可满足人们对穿着的舒适性、功能性、实用性的需求，适用范围广，具有良好的市场前景及经济、社会效益。
此外，应当理解，虽然本说明书按照实施方式加以描述，但并非每个实施方式仅包含一个独立的技术方案，说明书的这种叙述方式仅仅是为清楚起见，本领域技术人员应当将说明书作为一个整体，各实施例中的技术方案也可以经适当组合，形成本领域技术人员可以理解的其他实施方式。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，包括面料本体，其特征在于：所述面料本体包括互相交织，且通过纬编单面平纹和/或单面变化组织结构编织的第一纱线Y 1和第二纱线Y 2；所述面料本体具有服装面与贴肤面，并且所述贴肤面有几何不连续凸起区域；在单位面积内，所述服装面由成圈与集圈结构构成，所述贴肤面由成圈与集圈或浮线结构构成，服装面上形成有成圈编织单元、集圈编织单元，贴肤面上形成有成圈编织单元、不成圈编织单元；在面料体的一个单位循环组织中，所述贴肤面至少含有一路用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线，同时贴肤面上的不成圈编织单元的长度≤4针；且用于编织不成圈编织单元的纱线的面积在一个单位循环组织结构总路数中的单位面积≤70％。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料,其特征在于：所述服装面的纱线覆盖面积与所述贴肤面的纱线覆盖面积之比大于1.5；所述服装面覆盖面积S F为：S F＝mS Y1+nS Y2；所述贴肤面的纱线覆盖面积S B为：S B＝mS Y1+W×nS Y2，式中
    Figure PCTCN2021082793-appb-100001
    m为单位循环组织中第一纱线的个数，n为单位循环组织中第二纱线的个数；并且所述面料本体的单位循环组织中一个编织的线圈内，所述贴肤面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 1＝5.42D 2；所述服装面纱线的单位覆盖面积S 2＝6.928D 2；其中，D为针编弧与沉降弧半圆的内圆半径。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面 纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述第一纱线Y 1的导湿能力大于所述第二纱线Y 2的导湿能力,并且所述第二纱线导湿能力和所述第一纱线导湿能力的比值大于1.2，所述第二纱线Y 2为编织在非贴肤面。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述第一纱线Y 1为聚酯纤维、聚酰胺纤维、植物纤维和再生纤维素纤维中的一种或至少两种混纺纱。
  5. 根据权利要求3所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述第二纱线Y 2为聚丙烯、聚酯类纤维、植物纤维和再生纤维素纤维中的一种或至少两种其混纺纱,表面接触角θ 2≥45°。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述服装面为成圈编织单元与集圈编织单元相结合的提花组织结构，或者平纹汗布组织结构。
  7. 根据权利要求1或6所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述服装面在单位面积中成圈编织单元与集圈编织单元的数量比值为大于1而小于等于3。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述贴肤面的成圈编织单元与不成圈编织单元的比例在1:1至1:3之间。
  9. 根据权利要求1或8所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述贴肤面进行起绒处理形成起绒面，用以提高所述织物的保暖能力及改善穿着的舒适性并增大液态水单 向传递指数。
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的轻薄柔软具有差别化导湿的单面纬编针织面料，其特征在于：所述面料本体还包括氨纶弹性纤维。
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