WO2022257192A1 - 一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料 - Google Patents

一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料 Download PDF

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WO2022257192A1
WO2022257192A1 PCT/CN2021/102233 CN2021102233W WO2022257192A1 WO 2022257192 A1 WO2022257192 A1 WO 2022257192A1 CN 2021102233 W CN2021102233 W CN 2021102233W WO 2022257192 A1 WO2022257192 A1 WO 2022257192A1
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fabric
evaporation
arc
skin
length
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PCT/CN2021/102233
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English (en)
French (fr)
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祥柏奇
胡军岩
陈长荣
胡耀鸿
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东莞超盈纺织有限公司
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Publication of WO2022257192A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022257192A1/zh

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and in particular relates to a single-jersey knitted fabric with differential water-conducting ability.
  • Patent CN201710056898.8 discloses an elastic water-absorbing and quick-drying knitted fabric and its application.
  • the fabric is divided into a surface layer and an inner layer by weaving.
  • at least one path of the inner layer in a tissue cycle is composed of a part A and a part B formed by two different weaving actions, and the part B is formed by a non-knit weaving action.
  • the number of A-parts and B-parts formed by two weaving movements should be as many as possible, and the B-part is an action that does not form a loop. , the more B parts, the more it will affect the smoothness of the inner layer, so the wearing comfort of this fabric is not ideal.
  • Patent CN201922434061.X discloses an all-cotton honeycomb knitted fabric with unidirectional moisture-wicking function.
  • the inner layer of the fabric is composed of hydrophobic cotton yarn
  • the surface layer of the fabric is composed of hydrophilic cotton yarn.
  • the sweat can diffuse from the inner layer of the fabric to the surface of the fabric, so as to achieve the effect of dry skin.
  • this fabric uses a double-sided structure, the weight of the fabric is difficult to make lighter and thinner than the single-sided fabric, and the air permeability is also poorer than that of the single-sided fabric; the comfort of wearing will also be greatly reduced.
  • the present invention provides a single-jersey knitted fabric with differential water-conducting ability.
  • the present invention takes the following technical solutions:
  • a single-jersey knitted fabric with differential water-conducting ability comprising a fabric body, the fabric body has a skin-facing surface and a clothing surface, the fabric body is a single-jersey knitted fabric formed by knitting at least one yarn in loops, The skin surface is composed of several skin-adhesive units, and the clothing surface is composed of several evaporation units;
  • Evaporation unit includes evaporation ring column L 1 , evaporation needle arc L 2 and evaporation settling arc L 3
  • skin-attaching unit includes skin-adhering needle arc L 4 and skin-adhering settling arc L 5
  • evaporation ring column L 1 , evaporation needle arc L 3 Arc L 2 , evaporative settling arc L 3 , skin stitching arc L 4 and skin settling arc L 5 are knitted with the same yarn and form a unit coil;
  • the ratio of the length of the evaporation unit to the length of the skin unit is ⁇ 1.2, and the diameter of the yarn d ⁇ 1mm, so that the liquid water of the fabric body is single To transfer index OWTC ⁇ 100%.
  • the length of an evaporative subsidence arc L3 is calculated as:
  • a calculation of the length of the skin subsidence arc L5 is:
  • the ratio of the length S 1 of the evaporation unit to the length S 2 of the skin-attached unit is calculated as follows:
  • the transverse density Pa is 5-40 wales/cm
  • the longitudinal density Pb is 10-60 courses/cm.
  • the yarn is cellulose fiber or chemical fiber, and after the yarn is formed into a finished fabric body, the contact angle of the yarn is less than or equal to 70°.
  • the main body of the fabric is woven from two different yarns, one of which is polyurethane elastic fiber.
  • the fabric body is composed of several kinds of non-elastic yarns.
  • the fabric body is made up of several kinds of elastic yarns.
  • the fabric body is composed of several kinds of elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns.
  • the fabric body is a single-side plain fabric or a single-side jacquard fabric.
  • the present invention adjusts the distribution density of the skin-adhesive unit and the evaporation unit in the fabric body, that is, adjusts the length of the horizontal density and the vertical density of the fabric body, so that the fabric can achieve a better one-way moisture-wicking function and improve the comfort when wearing .
  • Fig. 1 is the enlarged schematic view of the coil part of the fabric body in the present invention
  • Fig. 2 is the simplified diagram of the two-dimensional model of the knitted fabric coil established by geometric method in the present invention
  • Points 0 and 9 are the vertices of the centerline of the subsidence arc; points 1 and 8 are the intersection points of the inner side of the planar projection of the coil column of the previous row and the centerline of the subsidence arc; points 2 and 7 are the intersection points of the centerline of the subsidence arc and the centerline of the coil column ; Points 3 and 6 are the intersection points of the center line of the needle arc and the center line of the coil column; points 4 and 5 are the intersection points of the outside of the plane projection of the coil column of the next row and the center line of the needle arc; 0-1 and 8-9 are Skin subsidence arc L 5 , 1-2 and 7-8 are evaporation subsidence arc L 3 , 2-3 and 6-7 are evaporation circle column L 1 , 3-4 and 5-6 are evaporation needle arc L 2 , 4-5 is arc L 4 for skin needle weaving.
  • the present invention discloses a single-jersey knitted fabric with differential water-conducting ability, including a fabric body, the fabric body has a skin-fitting surface and a clothing surface, and the fabric body is made of at least one yarn.
  • Evaporation unit includes evaporation ring column L 1 , evaporation needle arc L 2 and evaporation settling arc L 3
  • skin-attaching unit includes skin-adhering needle arc L 4 and skin-adhering settling arc L 5
  • evaporation ring column L 1 , evaporation needle arc L 3 Arc L 2 , evaporative settling arc L 3 , skin-adhering stitch arc L 4 and skin-adhering settling arc L 5 are woven with the same yarn and form a unit coil.
  • the fabric body is composed of multiple unit coils, which are woven through yarn form.
  • the ratio of the length of the evaporation unit to the length of the skin-attached unit is ⁇ 1.2, and the diameter of the yarn d ⁇ 1mm, so that The liquid water one-way transmission index OWTC of the fabric body is ⁇ 100%.
  • evaporation coil column L 1 evaporation needle arc L 2 , evaporation and settlement arc L 3 , skin-adhering needle arc L 4 and skin-adhering settlement arc L 5 .
  • d in mm
  • the length of the finished fabric calculates transverse density Pa; /cm) length to the vertical density Pb (row/cm) length ratio ⁇ 1.2, in order to achieve the function of differential moisture conduction of the fabric.
  • Pa is represented by the number of wales within a specified length along the course direction of the knitted fabric.
  • the longitudinal density Pb is represented by the number of courses within a specified length along the wale direction of the knitted fabric.
  • Points 0 and 9 are the vertices of the centerline of the subsidence arc
  • Points 1 and 8 are according to the order of knitting loops, the inner side of the coil column plane projection of the previous row and the settlement
  • Points 2 and 7 are the intersection points of the centerline of the subsidence arc and the centerline of the ring column;
  • Points 3 and 6 are the intersection points of the center line of the needle arc and the center line of the coil column;
  • Points 4 and 5 are according to the order of knitting circles, the outside of the plane projection of the next row of coils and the needle knitting
  • 3-4, 5-6 are evaporating needle arcs, the single length of which is L 2 ;
  • 1-2, 7-8 are evaporative sedimentation arcs, and their single length is L 3 ;
  • the loop pitch A (mm) and loop height B (mm) of the coil can be calculated by the following formula:
  • the diameter G (mm) of the 0-1-2, 3-4-5-6, 7-8-9 segment arc can be calculated by the following formula:
  • the coil diagram is simplified, only the center line and junction points are reserved, and corresponding auxiliary lines are made, as shown in Figure 2, 0-1-2(R )-3(M)-4(S)-5-6-7-8-9 is the center line of a coil.
  • the auxiliary line SP ⁇ MR intersects with OM at point P, OQ ⁇ SP at Q, and it is easy to get:
  • the ratio of the length S 1 of the evaporation unit to the length S 2 of the skin-attached unit is calculated as follows:
  • the evaporation unit and skin-adhesive arc L 5 can be obtained.
  • the transverse density Pa is 5-40 wales/cm
  • the longitudinal density Pb is 10-60 wales/cm
  • the ratio of dense Pb (row/cm) length is ⁇ 1.2. Setting it within this range can ensure good unidirectional moisture transfer ability.
  • the yarns used to weave the fabric body can be one, two or more, and can be the same yarn or different yarns. for example:
  • the yarn is cellulose fiber or chemical fiber, and after the yarn forms the finished fabric body, the contact angle of the yarn is less than or equal to 70°, the equivalent radius of the capillary is not greater than 4.5 ⁇ m, and the number of capillaries is not less than 20.
  • the contact angle refers to the angle ⁇ between the tangent line of the gas-liquid interface made at the intersection of gas, liquid and solid, passing through the liquid and the solid-liquid boundary line, and is a measure of the degree of wetting. If ⁇ 90°, the solid surface is hydrophilic, that is, the liquid wets the solid more easily, and the smaller the angle, the better the wettability; if ⁇ >90°, the solid surface is hydrophobic, that is, the liquid Does not wet solids easily and moves easily on surfaces. When a drop of liquid falls on a horizontal solid surface, when equilibrium is reached, the resulting contact angle and the interfacial tension conform to the following Young's formula.
  • the main body of the fabric is woven from two different yarns, one of which is polyurethane elastic fiber, and the other can be flexibly selected.
  • the fabric body is composed of two kinds of non-elastic yarns, such as Cotton 40S/1+PES50D/36F, and the fabric formed by weaving will be non-elastic fabric.
  • the fabric body is composed of two elastic yarns, PES 75D+PU 20D, such as Cotton 40S/1+PES 50D/36F+PU 20D, all of which are woven with elastic yarns and have strong elasticity.
  • the fabric body is composed of several kinds of elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns, through the combination of non-elastic yarns and elastic yarns, a moderately elastic fabric is formed.
  • the fabric body is a single-side plain fabric or a single-side jacquard fabric, which makes the whole fabric more aesthetically pleasing.
  • the yarn is made of filament PES 75D/72F FD DTY (75D polyester low elastic yarn), and polyurethane elastic fiber PU 20D (20D spandex) is used to increase elasticity and softness.
  • the specific model selection is as follows: weft knitting single knitting machine large circular knitting machine, 36G, 34 inches. It can make the woven finished fabric delicate and meet high-end requirements.
  • the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit the total length S 2 of the skin-attached unit must be ⁇ 1.20, namely:
  • Width 160cm
  • weight 140g
  • transverse density Pa value 24
  • longitudinal density Pb value 29
  • total length S 1 of evaporation unit total length S 2 of skin sticking unit ⁇ 1.20.
  • the yarn contact angle ⁇ u was 68°. This fabric was measured in accordance with standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics". The OWTC (one way transport capability) of the fabric measured this time is 105%.
  • Example 1 Through the test results of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that the single-jersey knitted fabric of the present invention, according to different yarns, can be adjusted by adjusting the horizontal density (Pa, wale/cm) and vertical density (Pb, course/cm) of the fabric. length, so that the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit: the total length S 2 of the skin-attached unit ⁇ 1.20, the resulting fabric body OWTC (one way transport capability) value is greater than or equal to 100%, and the one-way moisture transfer capability is significantly improved, with Good one-way moisture transfer function.
  • Pa horizontal density
  • Pb vertical density
  • the yarn is 40S/1 cotton/poly 60/40, and polyurethane elastic fiber PU20D (20D spandex) is used to increase elasticity and have a certain degree of softness.
  • the specific model selection is as follows: weft knitting single knitting machine large circular knitting machine, 28G, 34 inches.
  • the finished fabric is delicate and has a high-grade feel.
  • the finished product horizontal density Pa can be calculated as follows:
  • the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit the total length S 2 of the skin-attached unit must be ⁇ 1.20, namely:
  • Width 165cm
  • weight 150GSM
  • horizontal density Pa value is 18
  • vertical density Pb value is 21, satisfying the condition of total length S 1 of evaporation unit: total length S 2 of skin sticking unit ⁇ 1.20.
  • the yarn contact angle ⁇ u was 62°.
  • This fabric was measured in accordance with standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the OWTC one way transport capability of the fabric measured this time is 112%.
  • Example 2 Use the same yarn as in Example 2: 40S/1 cotton/poly 60/40 and PU 20D (20D spandex), weave into a single-sided plain weave fabric with a grammage of about 150GSM and a width of 165cm, but adjust the horizontal density and vertical density The length between them, the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit: the total length S 2 of the skin-applied unit ⁇ 1.20.
  • Actual finished product data
  • Width 165cm, gram weight: 150g, satisfying the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit: the total length S 2 of the skin-attaching unit ⁇ 1.20.
  • the yarn contact angle ⁇ u was 78°.
  • This fabric was measured in accordance with standard AATCC 195 "Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics".
  • the OWTC one way transport capability of the fabric measured this time was 78%. This fabric does not have one-way moisture transfer.
  • Example 2 Through the test results of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, it can be known that the single jersey fabric of the present invention, according to different yarns, can be adjusted by adjusting the horizontal density (Pa, wale/cm) and vertical density (Pb, course/cm) of the fabric. length, so that the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit: the total length S 2 of the skin-attached unit ⁇ 1.20, the resulting fabric body OWTC (one way transport capability) value is greater than or equal to 100%, and the one-way moisture transfer capability is significantly improved, with Good one-way moisture transfer function.
  • Pa horizontal density
  • Pb vertical density
  • the yarn is made of filament PES 75D/72F FD DTY (75D polyester low elastic yarn).
  • the specific model selection is as follows: weft knitting single knitting machine large circular knitting machine, 36G, 34 inches. It can weave the fabric more delicate and high-end.
  • the yarn diameter D ⁇ 0.19mm after dyeing and finishing of 75D polyester low elastic yarn; the width of the finished product is required to be 160cm, and the transverse density Pa of the finished product can be calculated as follows:
  • the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit the total length S 2 of the skin-attached unit must be ⁇ 1.2, namely:
  • Example 3 Through the test results of Example 3 and Comparative Example 3, it can be known that the single jersey fabric of the present invention, according to different yarns, can be adjusted by adjusting the horizontal density (Pa, wale/cm) and vertical density (Pb, course/cm) of the fabric. length, so that the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit: the total length S 2 of the skin-attached unit ⁇ 1.20, the resulting fabric body OWTC (one way transport capability) value is greater than or equal to 100%, and the one-way moisture transfer capability is significantly improved, with Good one-way moisture transfer function.
  • Pa horizontal density
  • Pb vertical density
  • the present invention adjusts the lengths of the lateral density (Pa, wale/cm) and vertical density (Pb, row/cm) of the fabric so that the total length S 1 of the evaporation unit: the total length S of the skin-applied unit 2 ⁇ 1.20 to design the structure of the fabric with differential water conductivity, which can effectively improve the water conductivity of the fabric, keep the human skin dry when sweating, and it is comfortable to wear, light and thin, and has better comfort.

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Abstract

一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,包括面料本体,面料本体具有贴肤面和服装面,所述面料本体为由至少一条纱线成圈编织而成的单面针织面料,贴肤面由贴肤单元组成,服装面由蒸发单元组成;蒸发单元包括蒸发圈柱、蒸发针编弧和蒸发沉降弧,贴肤单元包括贴肤针编弧和贴肤沉降弧;蒸发圈柱、蒸发针编弧、蒸发沉降弧、贴肤针编弧和贴肤沉降弧为同一纱线编织并组成单元线圈;在一个单元线圈中,通过调整面料本体的横密和纵密,以设置得到蒸发单元的长度与贴肤单元的长度比值≥1.2,并且纱线的直径d<1mm,使得面料本体的液态水单向传递指数OWTC≥100%。本发明通过调整面料本体内的编织结构,具有良好的单向导湿能力,提高舒适性。

Description

一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料 技术领域
本发明属于纺织面料技术领域,具体涉及一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料。
背景技术
随着针织面料技术的提高,越来越多的功能性面料设计得以实现,特别是能够参与人体皮肤表层“微气候”水分管理的功能性面料近几年收到了越来越多的关注。当人体出汗时,面料贴肤层可以迅速导出皮肤表面“微气候”中多余的水分导面料的表层;面料的表层也就是蒸发层可以迅速把水分蒸发,保持干爽。当然在这个基础上面料要尽可能的轻盈,穿着舒适,保型性要好。
专利CN201710056898.8公开了一种弹性吸水速干针织面料及其用途,其面料通过编织的方法使面料分为表层和里层。并采用了一个组织循环中里层的至少1路是由两种不同编织动作形成的A部分与B部分所组成的结构,所述B部分由不成圈编织动作形成。虽然能达到使人体皮肤达到干爽感,但为了达到更优的导汗效果,要求含有两种编制动作的形成的A部分和B部分的路数越多越好,而B部分是不成圈的动作,越多的B部分越会影响里层的平滑性,所以这种面料的穿着舒适感不够理想。
专利CN201922434061.X公开了一种全棉类单向导湿功能蜂巢型针织面料,通过使用双面的结构,让面料内层有疏水性棉纱组成,面料表层由亲水性棉纱组成。当人体出汗时,汗液可由面料内层扩散到面料表层,从而达到皮肤干爽的效果。但由于此面料使用的是双面结构,面料的克重相对单面面料来说,很难做轻做薄,透气性也较单面面料差;穿着的舒适感也会因此大大降低。
综合现有技术的分析,目前实现面料差别化导湿的技术有后整理方法,但是存在着不耐水洗,功能性不持久的问题;而通过毛细效应达到差别化导湿又局限于双层结构,具有一定的局限性。
发明内容
为了解决上述的技术问题,本发明提供了一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料。
为了解决上述技术问题,本发明采取以下技术方案:
一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,包括面料本体,面料本体具有贴肤面和服装面,所述面料本体为由至少一条纱线成圈编织而成的单面针织面料,贴肤面由若干个贴肤单元组成,服装面由若干个蒸发单元组成;
蒸发单元包括蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2和蒸发沉降弧L 3,贴肤单元包括贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5;蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2、蒸发沉降弧L 3、贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5为同一纱线编织并组成单元线圈;
在一个单元线圈中,通过调整面料本体的横密和纵密,以设置得到蒸发单元的长度与贴肤单元的长度比值≥1.2,并且纱线的直径d<1mm,使得面料本体的液态水单向传递指数OWTC≥100%。
在一个单元线圈内,
一个蒸发圈柱L 1长度的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000001
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000002
式中:B-圈高;
Pb-面料本体的纵密;
d-纱线直径;
一个蒸发针编弧L 2长度的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000003
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000004
一个蒸发沉降弧L 3长度的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000005
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000006
式中:G-单元线圈的圆弧直径;
α-蒸发针编弧所对应的弧度;
β-蒸发沉降弧所对应的弧度;
Pa-面料本体的横密;
一个贴肤针编弧L 4长度的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000007
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000008
一个所述贴肤沉降弧L 5长度的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000009
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000010
在一个单元线圈内,蒸发单元的长度S 1与贴肤单元的长度S 2的比值计算如下:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000011
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000012
作为进一步的方案,所述面料本体上,横密Pa为5-40纵行/cm,所述纵密Pb为10-60横列/cm。
作为进一步的方案,所述纱线为纤维素纤维或化学纤维,并且所述纱线形成面料本体成品后,该纱线的接触角小于等于70°。
作为进一步的方案,所面料本体由两种不同的纱线编织构成,其中一种纱线是聚氨酯弹性纤维。
或者所述面料本体若干种无弹纱线组成。
或者所述面料本体由若干种有弹纱线组成。
或者所述面料本体由若干种有弹纱线和无弹纱线组合而成。
所述面料本体为单面平纹面料或单面提花面料。
本发明通过对面料本体内的贴肤单元和蒸发单元的分布密度进行调整,即调整面料本体的横密和纵密的长度,使面料达到较佳的单向导湿功能,提升穿着时的舒适性。
附图说明
图1为本发明中面料本体的线圈部分放大示意图;
图2为本发明中用几何方法建立的针织物线圈两维模型简易图;
在图2中,各数字定义为:
点0、9是沉降弧中心线的顶点;点1、8是上一横列线圈圈柱平面投影内侧与沉降弧中心线的交点;点2、7是沉降弧中心线与圈柱中心线的交点;点3、6是针编弧中心线与圈柱中心线的交点;点4、5是下一横列线圈圈柱平面投影外侧与针编弧中心线的交点;0-1和8-9为贴肤沉降弧L 5,1-2和7-8为蒸发沉降弧L 3,2-3和6-7为蒸发圈柱L 1,3-4和5-6为蒸发针编弧L 2,4-5为肤针编弧L 4
具体实施方式
为能进一步了解本发明的特征、技术手段以及所达到的具体目的、功能,下面结合附图与具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细描述。
如附图1所示,本发明揭示了一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,包括面料本体,面料本体具有贴肤面和服装面,所述面料本体为由至少一条纱线成圈编织而成的单面针织面料,贴肤面由若干个贴肤单元组成,服装面由若干个蒸发单元组成,贴肤面用于接触皮肤,服装面则朝向外侧,通过蒸发单元可以形成良好的水分蒸发性能。
蒸发单元包括蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2和蒸发沉降弧L 3,贴肤单元包括贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5;蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2、蒸发沉降弧L 3、贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5为同一纱线编织并组成单元线圈,面料本体由多个单元线圈组合而成,通过纱线一体编织形成。
在一个单元线圈中,通过计算和调节面料本体的横密Pa与纵密Pb之间的长度,使蒸发单元的长度与贴肤单元的长度比值≥1.2,并且纱线的 直径d<1mm,使得面料本体的液态水单向传递指数OWTC≥100%。通过该横密和纵密的设定,实现良好的单向导湿能力。
在面料本体的线圈中,划分成为五个特征段:蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2、蒸发沉降弧L 3、贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5。通过已知纱线直径d(单位为mm)和成品幅宽要求长度,计算出面料成品横密Pa的长度;再通过调节纵密Pb(横列/cm)的长度,设计横密Pa(纵行/cm)长度与纵密Pb(横列/cm)长度的比例≥1.2,以达到织物差别化导湿的功能。
纵密和横密为本领域的专业术语,Pa用沿针织物线圈横列方向规定长度内的线圈纵行数表示。纵密Pb用沿针织物线圈纵行方向规定长度内的线圈横列数表示。
此外,在具体计算时,参照以下方式进行各参数的计算。
附图2为对应附图1的用几何法简化后的示意图,理论计算,假设线段0-1、1-2、3-4、4-5、5-6、7-8和8-9作为一个直径等于G的圆周(参见:《针织工艺学》,龙海如等,第21页,东华大学出版社,2017年1月,第1版),而线段2-3和6-7假定为直线。其中:
点0、9是沉降弧中心线的顶点;
点1、8是按针织成圈顺序,上一横列线圈圈柱平面投影内侧与沉降
弧中心线的交点;
点2、7是沉降弧中心线与圈柱中心线的交点;
点3、6是针编弧中心线与圈柱中心线的交点;
点4、5是按针织成圈顺序,下一横列线圈圈柱平面投影外侧与针编
弧中心线的交点。
定义:
2—3、6—7为蒸发圈柱,其单个长度为L 1
3—4、5—6为蒸发针编弧,其单个长度为L 2
1—2、7—8为蒸发沉降弧,其单个长度为L 3
4—5为贴肤针编弧,其总长度为L 4
0—1、8—9为贴肤沉降弧,其总长度为L 5
所述线圈的圈距A(mm)和圈高B(mm)可以由下式计算所得:
A=10/Pa  (1)
B=10/Pb  (2)
所述0-1-2,3-4-5-6,7-8-9段圆弧的直径G(mm)可以由下式计算所得:
G=A/2+d  (3)
即:G=5/Pa+d
式中:d-纱线直径;
为方便进行L 2、L 3、L 4、L 5的计算,对线圈图进行简化,只保留中心线以及交接点,并作出相应辅助线,如图2所示,0-1-2(R)-3(M)-4(S)-5-6-7-8-9是一个线圈的中心线。,辅助线SP∥MR并与OM相交于P点,OQ⊥SP于Q,易得:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000013
NR=d
所述一个蒸发圈柱长度L 1的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000014
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000015
所述一个蒸发针编弧长度L 2及一个蒸发沉降弧长度L 3的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000016
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000017
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000018
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000019
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000020
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000021
同理:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000022
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000023
式中:α-蒸发针编弧所对应的弧度;
β-蒸发沉降弧所对应的弧度;
Pa-横密;
Pb-纵密;
d-纱线直径;
所述贴肤针编弧长度L 4及贴肤沉降弧长度L 5的计算为:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000024
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000025
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000026
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000027
式中:Pa-横密;
Pb-纵密;
d-纱线直径。
在一个单元线圈内,蒸发单元的长度S 1与贴肤单元的长度S 2的比值计算如下:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000028
即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000029
将以上计算得到的蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2、蒸发沉降弧L 3、贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5的数值代入,即可得到蒸发单元和贴肤单元的长度比值。
作为进一步的方案,所述面料本体上,横密Pa为5-40纵行/cm,所述纵密Pb为10-60横列/cm,同时满足横密Pa(纵行/cm)长度与纵密Pb(横列/cm)长度的比例≥1.2。设定在这个范围内,可以确保具有良好的单向导湿能力。
用于编织面料本体的纱线,可以一种、两种或更多种,并且可以为相同的纱线,或者不同的纱线。比如:
所述纱线为纤维素纤维或化学纤维,并且所述纱线形成面料本体成品后,该纱线的接触角小于等于70°,毛细管当量半径不大于4.5μm;毛细管数量不小于20。
接触角(contact angle)是指在气、液、固三相交点处所作的气-液界面的切线穿过液体与固-液交界线之间的夹角θ,是润湿程度的量度。若θ<90°,则固体表面是亲水性的,即液体较易润湿固体,其角越小,表示润湿性越好;若θ>90°,则固体表面是疏水性的,即液体不容易润湿固体,容易在表面上移动。一滴液体落在水平固体表面上,当达到平衡时,形成的接触角与各界面张力之间符合下面的杨氏公式。
作为进一步的方案,所面料本体由两种不同的纱线编织构成,其中一种纱线是聚氨酯弹性纤维,另外一种可以灵活选择。
或者所述面料本体两种无弹纱线组成,例如Cotton 40S/1+PES50D/36F,编织形成的面料就会无弹面料。
或者所述面料本体由两种有弹纱线组成,PES 75D+PU 20D,如Cotton 40S/1+PES 50D/36F+PU 20D,全部有弹纱线编织而成,具有较强的弹性。
或者所述面料本体由若干种有弹纱线和无弹纱线组合而成,通过无弹纱线和有弹纱线的结合,形成弹性适中的面料。
所述面料本体为单面平纹面料或单面提花面料,使得整个面料更具美观性。
下面以具体的实例进行说明。
实施例1:
要求设计一款具有单向导湿功能单面面料,涤纶材质,具有一定的弹性和平滑性,且面料要求细腻,柔软,高档,克重140GSM左右,幅宽160cm。
1.纱线的选择:
纱线选用长丝PES 75D/72F FD DTY(75D涤纶低弹丝),还增加使用聚氨酯弹性纤维PU 20D(20D氨纶)增加弹性,同时具有柔软性。
2.使用的机型:
具体的机型选择如下:纬编单面机大圆机,36G,34英寸。可使编织的成品面料细腻,满足高档的要求。
3.织造工艺:
采用纬编平纹织法编织成:75D涤纶低弹丝:23cm/100G,20D氨纶:9cm/100G。使得成品面料具有一定的弹性和平滑性。
4.调整横密与纵密之间的长度,以设计单元线圈中所述蒸发单元的长度与所述贴肤单元的长度之比值≥1.2。
20D氨纶具有不吸水性,同时平均贯穿面料本体,可忽略其蒸发和吸水量,75D涤纶低弹丝染整后纱线直径D≈0.19mm;成品幅宽要求160cm,成品横密Pa计算可得:
Pa=24(纵行/cm);
为了织物能具有单向导湿功能,必须使蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.20,即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000030
代入D=0.19mm,Pa=24,可求得Pb≤39.5。
即在染整过程中,只需要把纵密Pb的数值控制在39.5以下,则此块面料的OWTC(one way transport capability)数值大于100%。
5.实际成品数据:
幅宽:160cm,克重:140g,横密Pa数值为24,纵密Pb数值为29,满足蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.20的条件。
纱线接触角θu为68°。此面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的织物其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为105%。
对比例1:
采用实施例1中相同的纱线:长丝PES 75D/72F FD DTY和PU 20D(20D氨纶),编织成克重140GSM左右,幅宽160cm的单面平纹布,但调整横密与纵密之间的长度,蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2<1.20。实际成品数据:
幅宽:160cm,克重:140g,满足蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2<1.20。纱线接触角θu为76°。此面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的织物其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为82%。此面料不具有单向导湿能力。
通过实施例1和对比例1测试结果可知,本发明的单面针织面料,根据不同的纱线,通过调节织物之横密(Pa,纵行/cm)和纵密(Pb,横列/cm)的长度,使得蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.20,由此形成的面料本体OWTC(one way transport capability)数值大于等于100%,单向导湿能力显著提高,具有良好的单向导湿功能。
实施例2:
要求设计一款具有单向导湿功能单面面料,棉材质,具有一定的弹性和平滑性,克重150GSM左右,幅宽165cm。
1.纱线的选择:
纱线选用40S/1 cotton/poly 60/40,还增加使用聚氨酯弹性纤维PU20D(20D氨纶)增加弹性,具备一定的柔软性。
2.使用的机型:
具体的机型选择如下:纬编单面机大圆机,28G,34英寸。使得成品面料细腻,具有高档感。
3.织造工艺:
采用纬编平纹织法编织,令面料具有弹性和平滑性。
4.调整横密与纵密之间的长度,以设计单元线圈中所述蒸发单元的长度与所述贴肤单元的长度之比值≥1.2。
20D氨纶具有不吸水性,同时平均贯穿面料本体,可忽略其蒸发和吸水量,根据经验可知40S/1 cotton/poly 60/40染整后纱线直径D≈0.17mm;成品幅宽要求165cm,成品横密Pa计算可得:
Pa=18(纵行/cm)
为了织物能具有单向导湿功能,必须使蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.20,即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000031
代入D=0.17mm,Pa=18,可求得Pb≤32。
即在染整过程中,只需要把纵密Pb的数值控制在32以下,则此块面料的OWTC(one way transport capability)数值大于100%。
5.实际成品数据:
幅宽:165cm,克重:150GSM,横密Pa数值为18,纵密Pb数值为21,满足蒸发单元之总长度S 1:贴肤单元之总长度S 2≥1.20的条件。纱线接触角θu为62°。此面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的织物其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为112%。
对比例2:
采用实施例2中相同的纱线:40S/1 cotton/poly 60/40和PU 20D(20D氨纶),编织成克重150GSM左右,幅宽165cm的单面平纹布,但调整横密与纵密之间的长度,蒸发单元的之总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2<1.20。实际成品数据:
幅宽:165cm,克重:150g,满足蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2<1.20。纱线接触角θu为78°。此面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的织物其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为78%。此面料不具有单向导湿能力。
通过实施例2和对比例2测试结果可知,本发明的单面针织面料,根据不同的纱线,通过调节织物的横密(Pa,纵行/cm)和纵密(Pb,横列/cm)的长度,使得蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.20,由此形成的面料本体OWTC(one way transport capability)数值大于等于100%,单向导湿能力显著提高,具有良好的单向导湿功能。
实施例3:
要求设计一款具有单向导湿功能单面面料,涤纶材质,具有一定的弹性和平滑性,且面料要求细腻,柔软,高档,克重140GSM左右,幅宽160cm。
1.纱线的选择:
纱线选用长丝PES 75D/72F FD DTY(75D涤纶低弹丝)。
2.使用的机型:
具体的机型选择如下:纬编单面机大圆机,36G,34英寸。能够将面料编织的更加细腻和高档感。
3.织造工艺:编造织成单面提花布。
4.调整横密与纵密之间的长度,以设计单元线圈中所述蒸发单元的长度与所述贴肤单元的长度的比值≥1.20:
根据经验可知75D涤纶低弹丝染整后纱线直径D≈0.19mm;成品幅宽要求160cm,成品横密Pa计算可得:
Pa=24(纵行/cm)
为了织物能具有单向导湿功能,必须使蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.2,即:
Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-000032
代入D=0.19mm,Pa=24,可求得Pb≤39.5。
即在染整过程中,只需要把纵密Pb的数值控制在39.5以下,则此块面料的OWTC(one way transport capability)数值大于100%。
5.实际成品数据:
幅宽:160cm,克重:140g,横密Pa数值为24,纵密Pb数值为29,满足蒸发单元之总长度S 1:贴肤单元之总长度S 2≥1.20的条件。纱线接触角θu为67°。此面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management  Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的织物其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为106%。
对比例3:
采用实施例3中相同的纱线:长丝PES 75D/72F FD DTY,编织成克重140GSM左右,幅宽160cm的单面提花布,但调整横密与纵密之间的长度,蒸发单元之总长度S 1:贴肤单元之总长度S 2<1.20。
实际成品数据:
幅宽:160cm,克重:140g,满足蒸发单元之总长度S 1:贴肤单元之总长度S 2<1.20。纱线接触角θu为83°。此面料按标准AATCC 195“Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics纺织品的液体水分管理性能”进行了测量。本次所测量的织物其单向导湿能力OWTC(one way transport capability)为76%。此面料不具有单向导湿能力。
通过实施例3和对比例3测试结果可知,本发明的单面针织面料,根据不同的纱线,通过调节织物的横密(Pa,纵行/cm)和纵密(Pb,横列/cm)的长度,使得蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.20,由此形成的面料本体OWTC(one way transport capability)数值大于等于100%,单向导湿能力显著提高,具有良好的单向导湿功能。
综上所述,本发明通过调节织物的横密(Pa,纵行/cm)和纵密(Pb,横列/cm)的长度,使得蒸发单元的总长度S 1:贴肤单元的总长度S 2≥1.20来设计具有差别化导水能力面料的结构,能够有效的提高面料的导水能力,使人体皮肤出汗时保持干爽,并且穿着舒适、轻薄,具有更良好的舒适性。
需要说明的是,以上仅为本发明的优选实施例而已,并不用于限制本发明,尽管参照实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明,对于本领域的技术人员来说,其依然可以对前述实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改,或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换,但是凡在本发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,包括面料本体,面料本体具有贴肤面和服装面,其特征在于,所述面料本体为由至少一条纱线成圈编织而成的单面针织面料,贴肤面由若干个贴肤单元组成,服装面由若干个蒸发单元组成;
    蒸发单元包括蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2和蒸发沉降弧L 3,贴肤单元包括贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5;蒸发圈柱L 1、蒸发针编弧L 2、蒸发沉降弧L 3、贴肤针编弧L 4和贴肤沉降弧L 5为同一纱线编织并组成单元线圈;
    在一个单元线圈中,通过调整面料本体的横密和纵密,以设置得到蒸发单元的长度与贴肤单元的长度比值≥1.2,并且纱线的直径d<1mm,使得面料本体的液态水单向传递指数OWTC≥100%。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,其特征在于,在一个单元线圈内,
    一个蒸发圈柱L 1长度的计算为:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100001
    即:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100002
    式中:B-圈高;
    Pb-面料本体的纵密;
    d-纱线直径;
    一个蒸发针编弧L 2长度的计算为:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100003
    即:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100004
    一个蒸发沉降弧L 3长度的计算为:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100005
    即:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100006
    式中:G-单元线圈的圆弧直径;
    α-蒸发针编弧所对应的弧度;
    β-蒸发沉降弧所对应的弧度;
    Pa-面料本体的横密;
    一个贴肤针编弧L 4长度的计算为:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100007
    即:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100008
    一个所述贴肤沉降弧L 5长度的计算为:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100009
    即:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100010
  3. 根据权利要求2的具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,其特征在于,在一个单元线圈内,蒸发单元的长度S 1与贴肤单元的长度S 2的比值计算如下:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100011
    即:
    Figure PCTCN2021102233-appb-100012
  4. 根据权利要3所述的具有差别化导水能力单面针织面料的方法,其特征在于,所述面料本体上,横密Pa为5-40纵行/cm,所述纵密Pb为10-60横列/cm。
  5. 根据权利要4所述的具有差别化导水能力单面针织面料的方法,
    其特征在于,所述纱线为纤维素纤维或化学纤维,并且所述纱线形成面料本体成品后,该纱线的接触角小于等于70°。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,其特征在于,所面料本体由两种不同的纱线编织构成,其中一种纱线是聚氨酯弹性纤维。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,其特征在于,所述面料本体若干种无弹纱线组成。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,其特征在于,所述面料本体由若干种有弹纱线组成。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,其特征在于,所述面料本体由若干种有弹纱线和无弹纱线混合组成。
  10. 根据权利要求1-9中任一项所述的具有差别化导水能力的单面针织面料,其特征在于,所述面料本体为单面平纹面料或单面提花面料。
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