Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

• OIL-DAN S-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A FATTY ALCOHOL, ONE
• the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
• At least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
• composition having a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 min, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.
• galenics In the field of cosmetic skin care products including deodorant and antiperspirant products, it is possible to define different categories of galenics: aerosols, sticks, creams, gels, soft solid or roll-on.
• compositions are a new category of products appreciated by consumers for their effectiveness and their cosmetic qualities (ease of application, dry and soft touch). They are similar to solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading on the surface of the skin or for example by extrusion through a perforated wall device (grid). Compositions "soft solid” by their melting texture can also be valued as a care product of human keratin materials such as skin or lips as massage products, balms or ointments, sticks for the care of the lips. They have been described in particular in application WO2012 / 084522. Because of their anhydrous texture, these formulations may appear oily, present on the skin and not very fresh.
• WO2014 / 128060 describes antiperspirant compositions in the form of wax-based W / O emulsions, a water-soluble polysaccharide and a surfactant system comprising a specific fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglucoside.
• Such compositions still leave white traces after application. It therefore remains the need to produce cosmetic formulations "soft-solid" care for the skin, including deodorant and / or antiperspirant products, combining ease of application, dry touch immediate, soft, non-wetting and non-sticky and which are effective in the desired application.
• "soft-solid" cosmetic compositions for skin care especially deodorant and / or antiperspirant products, which minimize the presence of white traces after application.
• the present invention thus relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
• At least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
• composition having a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 min, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process treatment and / or care of human keratin materials characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the keratin material a composition as defined above.
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and / or body odor related to perspiration comprising applying to the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active.
• cosmetically acceptable is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments or mucous membranes which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which can divert the consumer to use this composition.
• human keratin materials is meant the skin (body, face, eye area), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips and mucous membranes.
• antiperspirant agent any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and / or of reducing the sensation of moisture related to human sweat and / or of masking human sweat.
• Deodorant active is any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
• “Fatty alcohol comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms” means any non-alkoxylated alcohol comprising a hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated and linear, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising between 8 and 30 carbon atoms. carbon and a hydroxyl function.
• oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C8-30 fatty alcohol is meant any alcohol comprising:
• hydrocarbon chain preferably saturated and linear, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units, and
• hydrocarbon chain is meant an organic group consisting predominantly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
• ester compound is intended to mean any organic molecule comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least one ester function of formula -COOR where R represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear and saturated alkyl radical.
• wax not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound means any wax containing less than 1% by weight of C 20 -C 39 ester compound, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the weight wax, or even free of ester compound in C 2 o-
• the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999.
• the melting point of the surfactant or wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
• the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
• compositions of the invention have a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at the mobile 3 or at the mobile 4 after 10 min, between 1200 and 8000 mPa.s.
• the measurement of the viscosity of the product is carried out with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer according to the CID-012-02 method.
• the necessary torque is measured to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity is to be determined by means of a submerged element (moving or measuring body) rotating at a selected and constant speed.
• the measurement is carried out with a set (FIG. product to be analyzed - cup - measuring body) at 25 ° C.
• the mobile used to make the measurements is mobile 3 or mobile 4 according to the viscosity of the product.
• the volume of substance introduced into the cup of mobile 3 or mobile 4 is 25 mL. The measurement is made after 10 minutes.
• the system support and the selected measuring body are placed in the instrument for measurement.
• Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be liquid at 25 ° C. and at 1 atmosphere, or they can be solid. They correspond to the formula R-OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more OH groups.
• R comprises from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
• R is a saturated, linear or branched radical.
• the liquid saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. They are preferably acyclic. Among the liquid saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
• the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. They are preferably acyclic. Among the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
• the solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from linear saturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.
• the composition comprises one or more saturated, solid linear fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, chosen in particular from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol and the like. stearyl and cetylstearyl alcohol.
• the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty alcohol or alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 8% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of:
• cetyl alcohol such as Cetanol commercial products from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd .
• ALFOL 16 ALCOHOL® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG)
• stearyl alcohol such as the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO,
• arachidyl alcohol for instance the commercial products Hainol 20SS® from the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),
• behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 22-98® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),
• cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; INCI name: "cetearyl alcohol") as the mixture comprising 70% by weight of alcohol (s) fatty Cl 8, 30% by weight alcohol (s) fat Ci 6 such as the commercial product NAFOL 1618 S® (SASOL GERMANY GMBH HAMBURG),
• Behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, stearyl acid, a cetylstearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof will be used more particularly.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at least two fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated.
• the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 50 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 2 to 25 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units.
• oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols will be used.
• the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols correspond to the formula R- [O-CH 2 -CH 2 ] n -OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 150, preferably from 2 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 25.
• R comprises from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
• R is a saturated, linear or branched radical.
• ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units such as BRU 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA,
• C12-15 Pareth-7 ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene units
• ethoxylated 10-oxyethylene ethylene behenyl alcohol (CTFA name "Beheneth-10"), such as the EUMULGIN BA 10 commercial product from COGNIS, or
• At least two oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene fatty alcohols, which comprise the same hydrocarbon chain, are used.
• a mixture of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols is used.
• a mixture of ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (“Steareth-2”) and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (“Steareth-20”) is used.
• the composition according to the invention comprises oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated C 8-30 fatty alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1, 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• CIRES oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated C 8-30 fatty alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1, 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C. ° C up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C.
• the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes having a melting point of greater than 45 ° C. and comprising one or more C 4 o C 7 ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -7 ester compound. C39.
• the waxes according to the invention can also be used in the form of a mixture of waxes.
• the ester content comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight and preferably from 20 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of wax (es).
• a wax selected from Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, beeswax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof will be used.
• composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.8 to 8% by weight.
• polysaccharide any polymer consisting of several monosaccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula:
• the water-soluble polysaccharides that can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular starches, gellanes, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, konjac, agar-agar, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. .
• the starches are used.
• water-soluble means partially or totally soluble in water to give a gelled or thickened solution at a concentration of 1% of active ingredient in water, after cold or hot processing.
• the starches that can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units.
• the number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
• the relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.
• the amylose / amylopectin weight ratio can range from 30/70 (corn) to 16/84 (rice).
• the molecular weight of the amylose is preferably up to 1 million by weight and that of the amylopectin is preferably from 100 to 500 million by weight.
• starch molecules used in the present invention may be unmodified or chemically or physically modified. They can have as botanical origin the cereals or the tubers. Thus, natural starches can be selected from starches of maize, rice, tapioca, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, palm, pea.
• Unmodified starches include unmodified corn starches (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) such as the products sold under the trade names Farmal CS®, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650® by Corn Products International.
• the starches used are modified by crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups. ).
• functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups. ).
• X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, amino-3-propanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.
• alkali metals for example sodium or potassium
• alkaline earth metals for example calcium, magnesium
• ammonium salts amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, amino-3-propanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.
• the phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
• Preferred diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate especially the diamidon phosphate hydroxypropyl ethers INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate as the products sold under the trade names FARINEX VA70 C or FARMAL MS 689® of the company AVEBE Stadex; products sold under the trade names STRUCTURE BTC®, STRUCTURE HVS®, STRUCTURE XL® or STRUCTURE ZEA® by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate).
• the starch will be selected from unmodified corn starches, unmodified rice starches, cornstarch phosphates and mixtures thereof.
• the starch will be selected from cornstarch phosphates.
• the water-soluble polysaccharide or polysaccharides may preferably represent from 0.25% to 6% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the final composition.
• aqueous phase is meant a phase comprising water and in general any molecule dissolved in water in the composition.
• the aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and in general other solvents which are soluble or miscible with water.
• Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol (or 1,2-octanediol), diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. More particularly, propylene glycol, glycerine and propane 1,3 diol will be used.
• the concentration of the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention contain at least one immiscible organic liquid phase in water called the oily phase.
• This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase immiscible in water.
• Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.).
• the water-immiscible organic liquid organic phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
• oil means a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 10 5 Pa).
• the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
• volatile oil means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
• non-volatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). ).
• oils in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from all cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, plant and synthetic oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
• hydrocarbon oil an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.
• the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30,000 mPa.s.
• silicon oil is meant an oil comprising in its structure carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom.
• volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
• volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 1 6 carbon atoms, and especially the C 8 -C isoalkanes 6 of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4 , 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched esters C 8 -C 16 , isohexyl neopentanoate , and their mixtures.
• isoparaffins also known as isoparaffins
• isododecane also known as 2,2,4 , 4,6-pentamethylheptane
• isodecane isohexadecane
• Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of Cognis DE10 2008 01 2 457.
• vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils oils of wheat germ, olive, sweet almond oil , palm, colza, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower,nadooulier, passionflower , musk rose, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid t
• esters in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula RiCOORg in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10 such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate C1 2-C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl octyl erucate 2 dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates,
• linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
• branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-undecyl; pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
• higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
• volatile silicones mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
• volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
• R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
• non-volatile silicone oils By way of example of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) will be used.
• PDMS linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane
• the oily phase comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one nonvolatile silicone oil.
• the hydrocarbon oil will preferably be chosen from triglycerides such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, fatty acid esters such as palmitate isopropyl, ethers such as dimethyl ether, alkanes such as isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
• triglycerides such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides
• fatty acid esters such as palmitate isopropyl
• ethers such as dimethyl ether
• alkanes such as isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
• the hydrocarbon oil or the hydrocarbon-based oils will preferably be present in the composition at concentrations ranging from 1 to 30% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the concentration of the oily phase preferably varies from 5 to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions may comprise at least one nonionic associative polymer.
• sociative polymers is understood to mean hydrophilic polymers capable in an aqueous medium of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
• hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
• the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.
• the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.
• the nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:
• celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially C 8 -C 22 , arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls d 6 ) sold by AQUALON,
• celluloses modified with alkyl phenol polyalkylene glycol ether groups such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
• guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,
• inulins modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the alkyl carbamate inulins and in particular the lauryl carbamate inulin proposed by the company Oraffi under the name INUTEC SP1, and
• diesters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid such as polyethylene glycol distearate (150 EO), such as PEG-150 Distearate sold under the trade name EMCOL L 32-45® from WITCO.
• the associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.
• these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided.
• the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
• the associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock.
• the hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example).
• These polymers may also be graft or star.
• the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups.
• the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
• a non-ionic polyurethane associative polymer is used as gelling agent.
• fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate® 205 Urea function sold by the company ELEMENTIS or Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol RM 2020.
• ELFACOS T210® chain C 12 alkyl -C 14 Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T212® C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from AKZO.
• the product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.
• solutions or dispersions of these polymers especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium.
• RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company ELEMENTIS.
• the associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993).
• an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
• ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
• ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%)].
• solutions or dispersions of these polymers include, RHEOLATE FX1010®, RHEOLATE FX1035® and RHEOLATE 1070® from ELEMENTIS, RHEOLATE 255®, RHEOLATE 278® and RHEOLATE 244® sold by ELEMENTIS society. It is also possible to use ACULYN 44, ACULYN 46®, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J® products, as well as the Acrysol RM 184 from the company Rohm & Haas, or else the BORCHI GEL LW 44® from the BORCHERS company. and their mixtures.
• an associative nonionic polyether polyurethane such as that sold in particular by the company ELEMENTIS under the name RHEOLATE FX 1100®, which is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having a weight average molecular weight of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-1001 / SMDI Copolymer).
• RHEOLATE FX 1100® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having a weight average molecular weight of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-1001 / SMDI Copolymer).
• the composition according to the invention contains less than 0.4% by weight, preferably less than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of nonionic associative polymer (s). (s) active matter.
• the composition according to the invention does not contain associative non-ionic polymer (s).
• compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from additional surfactants, opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, perfumes, thickeners, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspending agents, sequestering agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
• cosmetic adjuvants chosen from additional surfactants, opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, perfumes, thickeners, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspending agents, sequestering agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention may in fact comprise one or more additional surfactants.
• it comprises at least one additional nonionic surfactant, preferably at least one glyceryl and fatty acid ester.
• the glyceryl ester of fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
• glycerol ester and fatty acid there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
• CFA name Glyceryl stearate
• the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.
• the glyceryl ester of fatty acid may also be present as a mixture with polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Croda.
• the glyceryl ester of fatty acid may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight.
• fillers mention may be made of talc, kaolin, silicas, clays, perlite or particulate insoluble starches in water.
• porous silica microspheres especially porous silica microspheres.
• Spherical microparticles of porous silica preferably have an average particle size ranging from 0.5 to 20 ⁇ and more particularly from 3 to 15 ⁇ . They preferably have a specific surface ranging from 50 to 1000 m 2 / g and more particularly from
• porous silica microspheres 150 to 800 m 2 / g. They preferably have a specific pore volume ranging from 0.5 to 5 ml / g and more particularly from 1 to 2 ml / g.
• porous silica microspheres the following commercial products may be used:
• Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H 33;
• hollow particles of amorphous silicas in particular those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo; or
• precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax and in particular those sold under the name ACEMATT OR 412 by the company Evonik Degussa.
• the dermatological or cosmetic active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidant agents, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycation agents and agents stimulating synthesis.
• dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, the peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBR), the agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the agents stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells, the tensing agents, the lipo-restructuring agents, the slimming agents, the agents promoting the microcirculation dermal, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, sebum-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents,
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and / or body odor related to perspiration comprising applying to the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active.
• a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active.
• the compositions in accordance with the invention can therefore be used as a deodorant and / or antiperspirant product and may contain at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active ingredient. Additional salts or antiperspirant complexes
• antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in US Pat. No. 3,798,068.
• aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum chlorohydrexpropyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex complex polyethylene glycol, aluminum complex dichlorohydrex propylene glycol, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum polyethylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulphate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.
• aluminum and zirconium salts there may be mentioned in particular aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
• the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
• ZAG when the amino acid is glycine.
• the antiperspirant aluminum and / or zirconium salts or complexes can be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and more particularly between 2 and 15% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Deodorant active ingredients preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and more particularly between 2 and 15% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional deodorant active agents.
• Deodorant active is any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
• the deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ® Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 - (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea ( ® Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca -2, 5,10-trienol (Farnesol ®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (SYMCLARIOL from Symrise), gly
• zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate;
• salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid;
• zeolites in particular metallic zeolites, without silver
• the deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the following examples serve to illustrate the present invention.
• the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the aqueous phase containing the thickeners (water-soluble polysaccharide in particular) and the aluminum salts are heated to 80 ° C .;
• the waxes and the surfactant mixture are heated with the oils at 80 ° C .;
• the two phases are mixed and sheared under Rayneri emulsifier for 10 minutes;
• the formula is cooled to room temperature under Rayneri deflocculator before being packaged.
• the formula to be tested is deposited in order to have 0.08 g after spreading (ie approximately 3.75 mg / cm 2 , which corresponds to the 0.4 g consumed on average by the consumers per axelle and per day).
• the formula is spread in a circle (20-25 turns) to the unpowdered fingerstand on the Supplale support 50mm in diameter.
• the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising a mixture of steareth-2 and steareth-20, and
• the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and
• a formulation 4 according to the invention devoid of PEG-100 stearate.
• the concentrations of the various compounds are given in% of Active Matter (AD).
• the compounds used are identical to those described in Example 1.
• the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising cetearyl alcohol, and
• a formulation according to the invention comprising stearyl alcohol.
• formulations 1 and 5 according to the invention comprising cetearyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, transfer a similar amount of white traces.
• the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising caprylic / capric triglycerides and silicone oil, and
• a formulation 6 according to the invention comprising isohexadecane and silicone oil.
• the concentrations of the various compounds are given in% of Active Matter (AD).
• formulations 1 and 6 according to the invention comprising respectively caprylic / capric triglycerides or isohexadecane, transfer a similar amount of white traces.

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• 2017
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