WO2017035775A1 - 含红景天提取物和银杏提取物的产品及其制备方法和用途 - Google Patents

含红景天提取物和银杏提取物的产品及其制备方法和用途 Download PDF

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WO2017035775A1
WO2017035775A1 PCT/CN2015/088733 CN2015088733W WO2017035775A1 WO 2017035775 A1 WO2017035775 A1 WO 2017035775A1 CN 2015088733 W CN2015088733 W CN 2015088733W WO 2017035775 A1 WO2017035775 A1 WO 2017035775A1
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extract
ginkgo biloba
weight
rhodiola
dry powder
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PCT/CN2015/088733
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English (en)
French (fr)
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赵文忠
陈顺章
洪盛杰
谷志静
胡卫华
庄严
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拉芳家化股份有限公司
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Priority to CN201580002852.7A priority Critical patent/CN106413687B/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2015/088733 priority patent/WO2017035775A1/zh
Publication of WO2017035775A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017035775A1/zh

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9771Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/16Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae (Ginkgo family)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/41Crassulaceae (Stonecrop family)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of daily chemistry, in particular to a plant extract containing the active ingredient of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba and its application in cosmetics.
  • Pigments in human skin and hair function to protect the skin or hair from the harmful effects of ultraviolet light. If people lack the care of pigments, the skin or hair will be very sensitive to sunlight, such as sunburn. Even younger people will have a higher risk of skin cancer. This is because short-wave ultraviolet light (light with a wavelength between 290 and 320 nm) and carcinogens can form harmful free radicals such as oxygen free radicals, which attack skin cells and cause skin aging. The main function of the pigment in the skin is to remove harmful free radicals, thereby protecting the skin from harmful free radicals. Therefore, if people have enough pigment, they will have a strong defense system to protect the skin from physical and chemical toxic substances. The factors of pigmentation include three aspects: ultraviolet light, estrogen and prostaglandin.
  • Melanogenesis is produced by tyrosinase-catalyzed tyrosine-producing dopa (a reaction of dopachrome by tyrosinase and a series of complex oxidation reactions), and the resulting melanocytes are transferred to skin cells with The metabolism of the epidermis falls off.
  • the process of melanin production is a natural phenomenon of normal skin, and excessive production of normal skin melanin does not exist.
  • external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays, environmental pollution, and stress factors
  • abnormal skin melanin production such as excessive production
  • the skin is not discharged. The ability of the load will change the pigmentation of the skin.
  • ultraviolet light is the largest source of melanin biosynthesis and affects the reaction of the melanin production process.
  • the main reason why ultraviolet light is the production of melanin is because ultraviolet light plays a key role in promoting the activity of pigment cells and inducing excessive production of melanin.
  • melanin production mechanism One of the biggest characteristics of melanin production mechanism is that only one enzyme, tyrosinase, participates in the reaction. From this reasoning, inhibition of tyrosinase activity can prevent melanin production, so skin whitening effect will also Achieved.
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • Hydroquinone which is another known whitening substance, has a remarkable effect, but its use in cosmetics is limited because it is a carcinogen.
  • Kojic acid is a relatively good whitening substance known, and its whitening effect is excellent due to its remarkable ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity.
  • its stability in the formulation is difficult to maintain, and in recent years, It is reported that kojic acid is a carcinogen.
  • arbutin which can be obtained either by extraction from a bearberry tree planted in the mountains or by synthetic methods.
  • Arbutin has the same effect as kojic acid in inhibiting tyrosinase.
  • it can be concluded from the binding of arbutin self-molecular structure sugar molecule to hydroquinone.
  • the enzyme on the skin Arbutin is broken down into sugars and hydroquinones, where hydroquinone can cause irritation to the skin.
  • Plant extracts such as white peony, snow lotus, licorice, ginkgo, rhodiola and other hundreds of plants have the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase, and the safety is good, but there are defects that the effect is not obvious or the effect time is long.
  • Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba have significant inhibition of tyrosinase.
  • Activity and reduce the role of melanin production, more importantly, the extract of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba has a synergistic effect in inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, does not produce skin irritation, and has excellent The effect of whitening the skin is in accordance with the expectations of the present invention.
  • One subject of the present invention is to provide a plant extract comprising Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba active ingredients, which extract has synergistic whitening effect.
  • a further subject of the invention is a plant extract and its use.
  • Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba active ingredients are:
  • the weight ratio of Rhodiola rosea extract to Ginkgo biloba extract dry powder is from 3:1 to 1:2.
  • Rhodiola rosea dry powder and Ginkgo biloba extract dry powder is:
  • the solvent is selected from the group consisting of water, ethanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and 1,3 Butanediol, and the weight of the solvent is 1-10 times the weight of the dry medicinal material;
  • the extracted (b) was filtered with a 300 mesh filter, and the filtered extract was placed at a temperature of 10 ° C and allowed to stand for 8 days to age, after which the filtrate was filtered with a No. 5 filter paper;
  • the weight ratio of the Rhodiola rosea extract to the Ginkgo biloba extract dry powder is from 2.5:1 to 1:1.5.
  • the dry powder of Rhodiola rosea extract accounts for 0.3% to 5% by weight of the extract; the dry powder of Ginkgo biloba extract accounts for 0.1% to 7.5% by weight of the extract.
  • the Rhodiola medicinal material is a flower and a leaf of Rhodiola rosea; the Ginkgo biloba herb is a Ginkgo biloba leaf.
  • the solvent selected is 70% ethanol; in the extract of the present invention, the selected solvent has a weight of 6 times that of the dry medicinal material.
  • the beneficial finding of the present invention is that when Rhodiola rosea extract and Ginkgo biloba extract are combined in a weight ratio of 3:1 to 1:2, the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and reducing melanin is higher than that of the single test. It shows that both Rhodiola rosea extract and Ginkgo biloba extract have a whitening synergistic effect.
  • the invention provides a Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract with synergistic whitening effect and application thereof.
  • Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extracts of the present invention have good inhibition of tyrosinase activity and inhibition of melanin synthesis in pigment cells, and the active ingredients of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract have good activity. Skin whitening effect.
  • Rhodiola rosea extract Rhodiola as the active ingredient of the whitening composition of the present invention, Rhodiola rosea, the English name Roseroot, is a perennial grass or shrub plant of Sedum, growing at an altitude of 800-2500 meters. Rare wild plants in a cold and unpolluted area. Due to its harsh growth environment, such as lack of oxygen, low temperature drying, squally wind, exposure to ultraviolet light, and large temperature difference between day and night, it has strong vitality and special adaptability. It is a traditional medicine used in Asia. It is known that there are 14 species of salidroside in this genus. Currently used for medicinal or health care products are: Rhodiola crenulata, Rhodiola R. Rosea L, Rhodiola R.
  • Rhodiola rosea The main ingredients of Rhodiola rosea are: Salidroside and its hormonal tyrosol (Tryosol), 6-oxo-galactosyl erythroside, 1,2,3,4,6-penta- Gallic sulfhydryl- ⁇ -D-glucopyranose, chlorophyll-7-oxo- ⁇ -L-pyranose, chlorophyll-7-oxo-(3-oxo- ⁇ -D-glucopyranose Base)- ⁇ -L-pyranose; additionally containing flavonoid glycosides, gallic acid, kaempferol, quercetin, Rosavin, Rosarin, and Rosin Wait.
  • Rhodiola rosea contains flavonoids Rhodionin, Rhodiosin, Rhodilin, about 30 kinds of volatile oils, of which Sosaol content is the highest, accounting for about 26%, as well as ⁇ -caryophyllene, ⁇ -alpinene and so on.
  • the aerial part contains Rhodidiolin, Rhodionidin and Rhodidiolit and the like.
  • Rhodiola rosea used in the present invention can be taken from the flowers, leaves, branches of Rhodiola rosea, and further optimized to the flowers and leaves of Rhodiola.
  • Rhodiola rosea extract is an active ingredient in the extract of the present invention, and the solvent used for the extraction is selected from water, containing a lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and 1,3 butanediol, and further optimized to ethanol, butanol or methanol, further optimized to ethanol, which is 70% ethanol in ethanol.
  • the weight of the dried and dried leaves of Rhodiola rosea which is used in an amount of from 1 to 10 times, is further optimized to be 5-8 times, and further optimized to 6 times.
  • Rhodiola extract of the present invention is:
  • the weight loss of the dry weight of the extract is controlled at 1% because it is difficult to evaporate the filtered extract using a rotary evaporator.
  • Rhodiola extract of the present invention refers to a dry powder extract obtained by the above (a), (b), (c), and (d) extraction processes, and thus the following Rhodiola rosea extract is a Rhodiola rosea dry powder.
  • the extraction range of the Rhodiola rosea extract of the present invention includes not only the extract obtained by the above-described extraction method, but also an extract obtained by a conventional purification process, for example, an ultrafiltration membrane separation technique.
  • the separation of specific molecular weight substances is required, as well as the application of different chromatographic separation techniques, taking into account factors such as molecular weight, hydrophobicity, hydrophilicity, and charge.
  • Rhodiola extract of the present invention may be a powdery state extract obtained by an additional process such as vacuum distillation technique, freeze-drying technique, and live spray drying technique.
  • Rhodiola extract of the present invention can exert a certain effect on the skin, and therefore the carrier required for the application of the extract may be a cream or an emulsion.
  • Rhodiola rosea 200 g was washed with water, dried, placed in an extraction vessel with a condensing device, 1.2 liters of water was added, and then heated and extracted, and the heating temperature was controlled at 70-90 degrees Celsius, and the heating time was 5 hours.
  • the extract is then filtered with a 300-mesh filter.
  • the filtrate is aged at 5-10 degrees Celsius for 7-10 days and then filtered through a No. 5 filter paper.
  • the resulting filtrate is dried by a rotary vacuum evaporator and finally obtained a dry weight. It is 6 grams of extract.
  • Rhodiola rosea 200 g was washed with water, dried, placed in an extraction vessel with a condensing device, 1.2 liters of water was added, and then heated to extract, the extraction temperature was controlled at 15-35 degrees Celsius, and the extraction time was 5 days.
  • the extract was then filtered through a 300-mesh filter unit, after which the filtrate was further filtered through a 400-mesh filter unit, and then the filtrate was concentrated by a rotary evaporator to half (0.6 liters) of the original solution, and then 0.6 liter of 100% ethanol was added to the filtrate.
  • the temperature was controlled at 5-10 degrees Celsius and aged for 7-10 days.
  • the filtrate was filtered through a No. 5 filter paper, and the filtered filtrate was dried by a rotary vacuum evaporator to finally obtain an extract having a dry weight of 7 g.
  • Rhodiola rosea 200 g was washed with water, dried, placed in an extraction vessel with a condensing device, 1.2 liters of water was added, and then heated to extract, the extraction temperature was controlled at 40-50 degrees Celsius, and the extraction time was 5 days. Then, the extract is filtered with a 300-mesh filter device, and then the temperature of the filtrate is controlled at 5-10 degrees Celsius for aging, and the aging time is 7-10 days, after which the filtrate is filtered with No. 5 filter paper, and the filtered filtrate is subjected to a rotary vacuum. The evaporator was dried and filtered to finally obtain an extract having a dry weight of 6.5 g.
  • Rhodiola rosea 200 g was washed with water, dried, and placed in an extraction vessel equipped with a condensing device, and each of the extraction solvents listed in Table 1 was added in an amount of 1.2 liters, and then the method of Example 3 was used for extraction. Table 1.
  • Rhodiola rosea 200 g was washed with water, dried, placed in an extraction vessel with a condensing device, 1.2 liters of 1,3 butanediol was added, extracted for 48 hours, the temperature was maintained at 50-60 degrees Celsius, and then 300 mesh The filter device is filtered, and the filtrate is aged at 5-10 degrees Celsius for 7-10 days, and then the filtrate is filtered with No. 5 filter paper. Since 1,3 butanediol is used as a solvent, the weight loss of the extract dry weight is controlled at 100. In 1st, the final extract concentration is 1% (W/V).
  • Rhodiola rosea 200 g was washed with water, dried, placed in an extraction vessel with a condensing device, 1.2 liters of 10% ethanol was added, and then extracted by heating for 5 hours, and then the extract was filtered with a 300-mesh filter device, after which The temperature of the filtrate is controlled at 5-10 degrees Celsius for aging, and the aging time is 7-10 days. After that, the filtrate is further filtered with No. 5 filter paper, and the filtered filtrate is dried by a rotary vacuum evaporator, and the temperature is controlled at 65 degrees Celsius. An extract with a dry weight of 8 grams was finally obtained.
  • Rhodiola rosea 200 g was washed with water, dried, and placed in an extraction vessel equipped with a condensing device, and respectively added to 1.2 liters of the extraction solvent listed in Table 2, and then extracted by the method of Example 23, and the extraction results were ascertained. Table 2.
  • Ginkgo biloba L is a deciduous tree of Ginkgo biloba and Ginkgo. Ginkgo biloba appeared hundreds of millions of years ago. It is the oldest relict plant of the gymnosperm left after the Quaternary glacial movement. Ginkgo biloba contains flavonoids ginkgetin, isoginkgetin, and nails.
  • Ginkgo biloba biloba (bilobetin), musk scent, kaempferol-3-rhamnose glucoside, kaempferol, quercetin, isorhamnetin, etc.; another bitter component ginkgo lactone A ( Ginkgolide A), B, C and bilobalide A; acid component shikimic acid, D-glucaric acid, ginkgolic acid.
  • the ginkgo extract used in the present invention may be taken from the leaves of ginkgo.
  • Ginkgo biloba extract is another active ingredient of the extract of the present invention, and the solvent used for the extraction is selected from water, contains a lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, and further Optimized to ethanol, butanol or methanol, further optimized to ethanol, which is 70% alcohol in ethanol.
  • the extracting solvent of the present invention is used in an amount of from 1 to 10 times the weight of dry and dry leaves, further optimized to be 5-8 times, and further optimized to 6 times.
  • the extraction process of Ginkgo biloba extract is:
  • the extraction is carried out in proportion to the extraction solvent (a), heated at a temperature between 40-100 ° C for 3-20 hours, or between 1-40 ° C for 1-15 days.
  • the extraction time, the present invention preferably extracts at a temperature of 40-50 degrees Celsius and maintains the temperature for 5 hours;
  • the ginkgo extract of the present invention refers to a dry powder extract obtained by the above (a), (b), (c), and (d) extraction processes, and thus the following ginkgo extract is a dry powder of ginkgo extract.
  • the plant extracts of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba both have the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and reducing melanin production, but it is more beneficial to find that when Rhodiola rosea extract and Ginkgo biloba extract are in a weight ratio of 3:1 to When the ratio of 1:2 is combined, the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and reducing melanin is higher than that of the single test, indicating that the Rhodiola rosea extract and the Ginkgo biloba extract have a whitening synergistic effect.
  • the weight ratio of Rhodiola rosea extract to Ginkgo biloba extract is further optimized to 2.5:1 to 1:1.5.
  • Tyrosinase activity inhibition rate ⁇ 1 - absorbance (comparative group solution) / absorbance (control solution) ⁇ * 100
  • Rhodiola extract and Ginkgo biloba extract inhibit melanin production
  • Mouse melanoma B-16 cells were injected into a test dish with 12 grids per plate.
  • the concentration of B-16 cells injected was 104, the culture time was 1 day, and then each cell was added with different
  • the plant extracts were combined and cultured for 3-4 days, after which each of the various mediums was separated by a centrifuge. Minute
  • the detached cells were dissolved in 500 ⁇ l of an equivalent concentration of sodium hydroxide dimethyl sulfoxide solution and then heated in a water bath (90 degrees Celsius) for 10 minutes.
  • the lysed cells were then centrifuged and the supernatant was measured for absorbance at 570 nm; as a control group, B-16 cells were treated as above without adding any plant extract.
  • the inhibition rate of melanocytes can be calculated by Equation 2, see Table 6.
  • the extracts of Rhodiola rosea, Ginkgo biloba extract and the combination of the two in different weight ratios obtained by different extraction methods have an effect of suppressing the growth of melanin in melanoma cells, and no cytotoxicity is observed.
  • Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract of the present invention in whitening cosmetics, Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba have a synergistic whitening effect, and the weight ratio of the two is from 2.5:1 to 1:1.5. According to this ratio, the weight ratio of Rhodiola/Ginkgo biloba extract used in the application of the present invention is 5 to 20 percent, and is further optimized to 5 to 15 percent. The application shows an excellent skin whitening effect.
  • the present invention obtains dry powder of Rhodiola rosea extract and Ginkgo biloba extract respectively, and finds that the weight ratio of Rhodiola rosea extract and Ginkgo biloba extract to extract dry powder is 3:1 to When the ratio of 1:2 is combined, the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and reducing melanin is higher than that of the single test, and the weight ratio of Rhodiola rosea extract to Ginkgo biloba extract dry powder is further optimized to 2.5:1 to 1. :1.5;
  • Rhodiola/Ginkgo biloba extract of the present invention is obtained by combining a dry powder of Rhodiola rosea extract and a dry powder of Ginkgo biloba extract as an active ingredient, and a suitable solvent.
  • the invention provides a synergistic whitening effect of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract, the components and contents thereof are:
  • the invention provides a synergistic whitening effect of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract, wherein Rhodiola rosea
  • the dry powder of the extract accounts for 0.3% to 5% of the weight of the extract; the dry powder of Ginkgo biloba extract accounts for 0.1% to 7.5% of the weight of the extract; the ethanol accounts for 50% to 70% of the weight of the extract; and the 1,3 butanediol accounts for the extract. 2% to 10% by weight; see Table 7
  • the extract of the present invention contains 0.05% to 0.5% by weight of a chelating agent, which is commonly used in cosmetics, disodium edetate (EDTA-2 sodium), further optimized to be 0.15% to 0.3% by weight of the extract. .
  • a chelating agent which is commonly used in cosmetics, disodium edetate (EDTA-2 sodium)
  • EDTA-2 sodium disodium edetate
  • the plant extracts applied to the cosmetics are not directly added to the cosmetic in the form of a dry powder, but are applied to the cosmetic in the form of an extract.
  • the weight ratio of Rhodiola to Ginkgo is 3:1 to 1:2, further optimized to 2,5:1 to 1:1.5.
  • the application of the extract of the present invention in cosmetics in addition to the Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract as whitening active ingredients, also includes some applicable formula dosage forms and cosmetically acceptable carriers, and some cosmetically acceptable carriers such as conventionally used additives. , antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments and flavors, and other carrier ingredients.
  • Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract of the present invention can be applied to any conventional composition formula, such as a solution, an emulsion, an adhesive tablet, a gel, a cream, a nutrient water, a powder, a soap, and a surfactant.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier may be animal fat, vegetable fat, wax, mineral oil, starch, xanthan gum, cellulose derivative, poly Ethylene glycol, silicone oil, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier may be lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate, nylon PMPM or the like.
  • the cosmetic may receive a carrier which may be a solvent, a solubilizing agent, or an emulsifier such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, and the like.
  • a carrier which may be a solvent, a solubilizing agent, or an emulsifier such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, and the like.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier may be a liquid diluent such as water, ethanol, propylene glycol, a suspending agent such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester or Polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, microcrystalline cellulose, aluminum hydroxide, kaolin, xanthan gum and the like.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier may be a fatty alcohol sulfate, a fatty alcohol polysulfate, a sulfosuccinate monoester, a hydroxyethyl group.
  • Sulfonic acid salts imidazoline derivatives, sarcosinates, betaines, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable oils, lanolin derivatives, ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, and the like.
  • the extract of the present invention is applied in the form of a soap, a cleaning composition containing or not containing a surfactant, it can be wiped off with a wet tissue or rinsed with water.
  • the soap includes, but is not limited to, liquid soap, powdered soap, solid soap box oil soap;
  • the surfactant-containing skin cleansing composition includes, but is not limited to, a cleaning foam, a cleansing water, a cleaning paper towel;
  • the surfactant-free Skin cleansing compositions include, but are not limited to, cleansing creams, cleansing lotions, cleansing waters, cleansing gels and the like.
  • the other raw materials constituting the application examples of the formulation are cosmetically acceptable carriers, and the composition thereof And the weight percentage is not limited insofar as it does not affect the formulation technology or the needs of the prior art.
  • the invention provides a synergistic whitening effect of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract in whitening facial mask essence, see Table 8
  • the invention provides a synergistic whitening effect of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract in whitening lotion, see Table 9
  • the invention provides a synergistic whitening effect of Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract in whitening nourishing cream, see Table 10
  • the invention verifies the whitening effect of the Rhodiola and Ginkgo biloba extract with synergistic whitening effect.
  • Spectrophotometer - Minolta CR-300 measures the change in chromatic aberration before and after using the product, and calculates the change in skin chromaticity ( ⁇ L).
  • the principle is that the more melanin in the skin, the smaller the L value, and vice versa. Big! Therefore, the larger the ⁇ L color difference, the better the effect!

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Abstract

一种含红景天提取物和银杏提取物的产品及其制备方法和用途,所述产品可抑制酪氨酸酶、减少黑色素、具有美白的协同作用、用于制备美白化妆品。

Description

一种含有红景天与银杏活性成份的提取液及应用 技术领域
本发明涉及日化领域,具体涉及一种含有红景天与银杏活性成份的植物提取液及在化妆品中的应用。
背景技术
人自身皮肤和头发中的色素,其功能均是起到保护的作用即保护皮肤或头发免于遭受紫外线的有害影响。如果人缺乏色素的呵护,皮肤或头发对阳光就会非常敏感比如容易招致晒伤。甚至年龄比较轻的人群也会有比较高的皮肤癌发病风险。这是因为短波紫外线(波长介于290至320纳米的光线)与致癌物质能形成有害的自由基如氧自由基,这些氧自由基攻击皮肤细胞并造成皮肤的老化现象。皮肤中色素的主要功能是清除有害自由基,从而保护皮肤免于有害自由基的侵害。因此,人拥有足够的色素就会拥有足够强大的防御体系来保护皮肤免受物理和化学有毒物质的侵害。色素生成的因素包含三个方面即,紫外线,雌激素和前列腺素。黑色素的生成是通过络氨酸酶催化酪氨酸生成多巴(多巴色素通过酪氨酸酶的反应,以及一系列复杂的氧化反应生成),生成的黑色素细胞被转移到皮肤细胞中并伴随的表皮的新陈代谢而脱落。黑色素产生的过程是正常皮肤的一个自然现象,正常的皮肤黑色素的过多产生不会存在。然而,当皮肤遭受来自外界的刺激如紫外线,环境污染以及压力因素存在时,皮肤黑色素的异常产生(如过多产生)就会发生,当过多的黑色素生成后皮肤没有卸 载能力变会出现皮肤的色素沉着。在以上所述黑色素产生的刺激源中,紫外线是黑色素生物合成的最大的刺激源并且影响到黑色素生成过程的反应。换句话说就是,紫外线之所以是黑色素生成的最主要因素是因为紫外线在促进色素细胞的活性并诱发黑色素过多生成中起着关键的作用。
在黑色素生成机理中一个最大的特征是只有一种酶即酪氨酸酶参与了其中的反应,由此推理,抑制酪氨酸酶的活性就能阻止黑色素的生成,因此皮肤美白的功效也会得以实现。
在之前的专利说明中,已知的有使用抗坏血酸(维他命C)作为美白物质,然而维他命C有个问题是它的活性会随着时间降低,这也许是由于配方或工艺的问题,因此,技术人员又想出了许多稳定维他命C的一些方法如将维他命C制作成胶囊或脂质体等稳定活性物质的方法,然而始终没有一种更加确切和可靠的方法。
氢醌,是已知的另外一种美白物质,其效果比较显著,但在化妆品中的使用受到限制,因为它是一种致癌物质。
曲酸,是已知的一种比较好的增白物质,由于其显著的抑制酪氨酸酶活性的能力,其美白效果优异,然而其在配方中的稳定性很难保持,况且近年来有报道说曲酸是一种致癌物。
除此之外,已知的比较常用的一种美白剂是熊果苷,熊果苷既可以通过高山种植的一种熊果树中提取获得,也可以通过合成的方法获得。熊果苷具有与曲酸一样抑制酪氨酸酶的效果,然而从熊果苷自身分子结构糖分子键合在氢醌上可以得出,当使用含有熊果苷的产品时,皮肤上的酶会将熊果苷分解成糖和氢醌,此处的氢醌会对皮肤产生刺激。
植物提取物如白芷,雪莲,甘草,银杏,红景天等上百种植物具有抑制酪氨酸酶的作用,且安全性好,但存在效果不明显或见效时间长的缺陷。
本发明人实验了许多有具有生理活性的用于改善皮肤色素沉着的天然物质,结果发现在众多的植物提取物中,一种叫红景天和银杏的植物提取物具有显著抑制酪氨酸酶活性并减少黑色素生成的作用,更重要的发现是红景天提取物与银杏的提取物在抑制酪氨酸酶的活性方面具有较好的协同增效作用,不会产生皮肤刺激,具有优异的增白皮肤的效果,符合本发明的预期。
发明内容
本发明一个主题是提供一种包含红景天和银杏活性成份的植物提取液,该提取液具有协同美白的功效。
本发明的再一个主题是一种植物提取液及其应用。
一种含有红景天与银杏活性成份的提取液,其组分及含量为:
(1)占提取液重量0.03%至10%的红景天提取物干粉;
(2)占提取液重量0.01%至15%的银杏提取物干粉;
(3)占提取液重量50%至70%的乙醇;
(4)占提取液重量2%至10%的1,3丁二醇;
(5)占提取液重量0.15%至0.3%的EDTA-2钠;
(6)余量为水。
其中红景天提取物干粉与银杏提取物干粉重量比为3:1至1:2。
本发明的提取液中,红景天提取物干粉和银杏提取物干粉的提取工艺为:
a、将红景天药材或银杏药材用清水洗净并放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入萃取溶剂,溶剂选自于水,乙醇,丙酮,乙酸乙酯,乙酸丁酯和1,3丁二醇,且溶剂的重量为干药材重量的1-10倍;
b、将按比例加入萃取溶剂的(a)进行萃取,在40-50摄氏度之间的温度加热5个小时;
b、将萃取后的(b)用300目过滤网进行过滤,并将过滤后的萃取物置放于10摄氏度的温度下并放置8天时间陈化,之后将滤液用5号滤纸进行过滤;
d、干燥处理,使用真空旋转蒸发器将过滤完成后的(c)进行蒸馏干燥,获得提取物干粉。
本发明的提取液中,红景天提取物干粉与银杏提取物干粉重量比为2.5:1至1:1.5。
本发明的提取液中,红景天提取物干粉占提取液重量0.3%至5%;银杏提取物干粉占提取液重量0.1%至7.5%。
本发明的提取液中,红景天药材为大花红景天的花和叶;银杏药材为银杏叶。
本发明的提取液中,所选用的溶剂为70%的乙醇;本发明的提取液中,所选用的溶剂重量为干药材重量的6倍。
本发明的提取液在美白化妆品中的应用。
本发明有益的发现是,当红景天提取物与银杏提取物以重量比3:1至1:2的比例组合时,其抑制酪氨酸酶活性以及减少黑色素的效果会比其单项测试时高,说明红景天提取物与银杏提取物两者具有美白协同作用。
具体实施方式
本发明提供一种具有协同美白功效的红景天与银杏提取液及其应用。
与之前的皮肤美白剂相比,本发明红景天和银杏叶提取物均具有良好的抑制酪氨酸酶活性与抑制色素细胞中黑色素的合成作用,红景天和银杏提取物活性成份具有良好的皮肤美白效果。
红景天提取物:红景天作为本发明中美白组合物的活性成份,红景天拉丁文学名Rhodiola rosea,英文名Roseroot,是景天科多年生草木或灌木植物,生长在海拔800—2500米高寒无污染地带的珍稀野生植物。由于其生长环境恶劣,如缺氧、低温干燥、狂风、受紫外线照射、昼夜温差大,因而具有很强的生命力和特殊的适应性。为亚洲地区常用传统药材。现已知本属植物含红景天苷的有14种。目前作药用或保健品应用的种类有:大花红景天Rhodiola crenulata,红景天R.Rosea L,库页红景天R.sachalinensis A.Bor.,狭叶红景天R.kirilowii(Regel)Maxim.,深红红景天R.coccinea(Royle)A.Bor.。大花红景天主要成份为:红景天苷(Salidroside)及其甘元酪醇(Tryosol)、6-氧-没食子醯基红景天苷、1,2,3,4,6-五氧-没食子醯基-β-D-呲喃葡萄糖、草质素-7-氧-α-L-呲喃李糖甘、草质素-7-氧-(3-氧-β-D-呲喃葡萄糖基)-α-L-呲喃李糖甘;另外还含有黄酮苷、没食子酸、山奈酚、槲皮素、酪萨维(Rosavin)、酪生(Rosarin)、酪萨利(Rosin)等结构等。红景天根中含有黄酮甘Rhodionin、Rhodiosin、Rhodiolin,约有30种挥发油,其中Sosaol含量最高,占约26%,还有β-石竹烯、α-橄香烯等。地上部分含有Rhodiolgin、Rhodionidin和Rhodiolgidin等。
本发明中使用的红景天可以取自大花红景天的花,叶,树枝,并进一步优化为红景天的花和叶。
红景天提取物是本发明提取液中的一种活性成份,其提取使用的溶剂选自于水,含有碳原子数为1至4的低碳醇,丙酮,乙酸乙酯,乙酸丁酯和1,3丁二醇,并进一步优化为乙醇,丁醇或甲醇,更进一步优化为乙醇,所述乙醇为酒精度为70%的乙醇。本发明萃取溶剂的使用量为1-10倍的红景天的干花和干叶的重量,进一步优化为5-8倍,再进一步优化为6倍。
本发明红景天提取物的提取工艺为:
(a)将红景天干花和叶(重量1:1)加入萃取溶剂,溶剂选自于水,含有碳原子数为1至4的低碳醇,丙酮,乙酸乙酯,乙酸丁酯和1,3丁二醇,且溶剂的重量为干花重量的1-10倍;
(b)将按比例加入萃取溶剂的(a)进行萃取,在40-100摄氏度之间的温度加热3-20个小时的时间或在4-40摄氏度的温度之间保持1-15天的萃取时间;
(c)将萃取后的(b)进行过滤,并将过滤后的萃取物进行陈化处理即,将过滤后的萃取物置放于5-10摄氏度的温度下并放置7-10天的时间陈化,最后再将陈化后的萃取物进行过滤;
(d)干燥处理,使用真空旋转蒸发器将过滤完成后的(c)进行蒸馏干燥并获得干粉提取物;
本发明当使用1,3丁二醇作为萃取溶剂时,提取物干重的损失重量控制在百分之1,因为很难使用旋转蒸发器将过滤后的萃取物蒸干。
本发明红景天提取物是指通过以上(a),(b),(c),(d)提取工艺后获得的干粉提取物,因此以下红景天提取物为红景天提取物干粉。
同时,本发明红景天提取物的提取范围不仅包括以上介绍的浸提方法所得的提取物,还包括通过常规的纯化过程获得的提取物,例如,超滤膜分离技术 需要对特定分子量物质的分离进行取舍,以及不同色谱分离技术的应用,对物质的分子量,疏水性,亲水性,电荷等因素考虑在内。
本发明红景天提取物可以通过附加的工艺如真空蒸馏技术,冻干技术活喷雾干燥技术制得的一种粉末状态的提取物。
本发明红景天提取物在皮肤上使用能呈现一定的效果,因此该提取物在应用上所需的载体可以是霜或乳液。
红景天提取物的制备
红景天提取物制备的实施例1
将200克红景天用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入1.2升的水,然后加热萃取,加热温度控制在70-90摄氏度,加热时间5个小时。然后萃取液用300目的过滤装置进行过滤,滤液在5-10摄氏度的温度下陈化7-10天之后用5号滤纸进行过滤,最终获得的滤液通过旋转真空蒸发器干燥,并最终获得干重为6克的提取物。
红景天提取物制备的实施例2
将200克红景天用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入1.2升的水,然后加热萃取,萃取温度控制在15-35摄氏度,萃取时间5天。然后萃取液用300目的过滤装置进行过滤,之后滤液进一步通过400目过滤装置过滤,然后滤液通过旋转蒸发器浓缩成原溶液的一半(0.6升),然后加入100%的乙醇0.6升到滤液中,将温度控制在5-10摄氏度并陈化7-10天,最后滤液再用5号滤纸进行过滤,过滤后的滤液再经过旋转真空蒸发器干燥,并最终获得干重为7克的提取物。
红景天提取物制备的实施例3
将200克红景天用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入1.2升的水,然后加热萃取,萃取温度控制在40-50摄氏度,萃取时间5天。然后萃取液用300目的过滤装置进行过滤,之后滤液温度控制在5-10摄氏度进行陈化,陈化时间7-10天,之后将滤液用5号滤纸进行过滤,过滤后的滤液再经过旋转真空蒸发器干燥滤,并最终获得干重为6.5克的提取物。
红景天提取物制备的实施例4-21
将200克红景天用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,分别加入表1中所列举的萃取溶剂各1.2升,然后应用实施例3的方法进行萃取,萃取结果见表1。
表1
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000002
红景天提取物制备的实施例22
将200克红景天用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入1.2升的1,3丁二醇,萃取48小时,温度保持在50-60摄氏度,然后用300目的过滤装置过滤,滤液在5-10摄氏度的温度条件下陈化7-10天之后将滤液用5号滤纸进行过滤,由于1,3丁二醇作为溶剂,萃取物干重的损失重量控制在百分之1,因此最终提取物的浓度为1%(W/V)。
红景天提取物制备的实施例23
将200克红景天用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入1.2升10%的乙醇,然后加热萃取5个小时,然后萃取液用300目的过滤装置进行过滤,之后滤液温度控制在5-10摄氏度进行陈化,陈化时间7-10天,之后将滤液进一步用5号滤纸进行过滤,过滤后的滤液再经过旋转真空蒸发器干燥,温度控制在65摄氏度,并最终获得干重为8克的提取物。
红景天提取物制备的实施例24-32
将200克红景天用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,分别加入表2中所列举的萃取溶剂各1.2升,然后应用实施例23的方法进行萃取,萃取结果见表2。
表2
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000003
银杏提取物
银杏(Ginkgo biloba L.),为银杏科、银杏属落叶乔木。银杏出现在几亿年前,是第四纪冰川运动后遗留下来的裸子植物中最古老的孑遗植物,银杏叶含黄酮类成分银杏双黄酮(ginkgetin)、异银杏双黄酮(isoginkgetin)、去甲基银杏双黄酮(bilobetin)、芸香甙、山柰素-3-鼠李糖葡萄糖甙、山柰素、槲皮素、异鼠李素(isorhamnetin)等;另含苦味成分银杏三内酯A(ginkgolide A)、B、C及银杏新内酯A(bilobalide A);酸类成分毒八角酸(shikimic acid)、D-糖质酸(D-glucaric acid)、白果酸(ginkgolic acid).尚含白果醇(ginnol)、白果酮(ginnone)、廿九烷、廿八醇、α-已烯醛、β-谷甾醇、豆甾醇及维生素等,并含儿茶素和表儿茶素.
本发明中使用的银杏提取物可以取自银杏的叶。
银杏提取物是本发明提取液的另一种活性成份,其提取使用的溶剂选自于水,含有碳原子数为1至4的低碳醇,丙酮,乙酸乙酯,乙酸丁酯,并进一步优化为乙醇,丁醇或甲醇,更进一步优化为乙醇,所述乙醇为酒精度为70%的乙醇。本发明萃取溶剂的使用量为1-10倍的干花和干叶的重量,进一步优化为5-8倍,再进一步优化为6倍。
银杏提取物的提取工艺为:
(a)将银杏的干叶(重量1:1)加入萃取溶剂,溶剂选自于水,含有碳原子数为1至4的低碳醇,丙酮,乙酸乙酯,乙酸丁酯和1,3丁二醇,且溶剂的重量为干花重量的1-10倍。
(b)将按比例加入萃取溶剂的(a)进行萃取,在40-100摄氏度之间的温度加热3-20个小时的时间,或者在4-40摄氏度的温度之间保持1-15天的萃取时间,本发明优选于40-50摄氏度的温度萃取并保持温度5个小时;
(c)将萃取后的(b)进行过滤,并将过滤后的萃取物进行陈化处理即,将过滤后的萃取物置放于5-10摄氏度的温度下并放置7-10天的时间陈化,最后再将陈华后的萃取物进行过滤。
(d)干燥处理,使用真空旋转蒸发器将过滤完成后的(c)进行蒸馏干燥并获得银杏提取物干粉。
本发明银杏提取物是指通过以上(a),(b),(c),(d)提取工艺后获得的干粉提取物,因此以下银杏提取物为银杏提取物干粉。
银杏提取物的制备
银杏提取物制备的实施例1-28
将200克银杏叶用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,分别 加入表1中所列举的萃取溶剂各1.2升,萃取温度控制在40-50摄氏度,萃取时间5天。然后萃取液用300目的过滤装置进行过滤,之后滤液温度控制在5-10摄氏度进行陈化,陈化时间7-10天,之后将滤液用5号滤纸进行过滤,过滤后的滤液再经过旋转真空蒸发器干燥滤,并最终获得萃取结果见表3。
表3
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000005
银杏提取物制备的实施例19
将200克银杏叶用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入1.2升10%的乙醇,然后加热萃取5个小时,温度控制在50摄氏度至70摄氏度之间,然后萃取液用300目的过滤装置进行过滤,之后滤液温度控制在5-10摄氏度进行陈化,陈化时间7-10天,之后将滤液进一步用5号滤纸进行过滤,过滤后的滤液再经过旋转真空蒸发器干燥,温度控制在65摄氏度,并最终获得干重为5.8克的提取物。
银杏提取物制备的实施例20-28
将200克银杏叶用清水洗净,干燥后放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入表4中列举的萃取溶剂各1.2升,然后加热萃取5个小时,温度控制在50摄氏度至70摄氏度之间,然后萃取液用300目的过滤装置进行过滤,之后滤液温度控制在5-10摄氏度进行陈化,陈化时间7-10天,之后将滤液进一步用5号滤纸进行过滤,过滤后的滤液再经过旋转真空蒸发器干燥,温度控制在65摄氏度,并最终获得干粉状提取物。萃取结果见表4
表4
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000007
本发明中红景天和银杏的植物提取物均具有抑制酪氨酸酶活性并减少黑色素生成的作用,然而更有益的发现是,当红景天提取物与银杏提取物以重量比3:1至1:2的比例组合时,其抑制酪氨酸酶活性并减少黑色素的效果会比其单项测试时高,说明红景天提取物与银杏提取物两者具有美白协同作用。
本发明中红景天提取物与银杏提取物重量比进一步优化为2.5:1至1:1.5
功效验证1:
红景天提取物与银杏提取物抑制酪氨酸酶活性的功效
取40微升浓度为1.5毫摩尔/每升的酪氨酸加入磷酸钠缓冲剂(Ph6.8)中作为基质使用,选取红景天提取物1-32某个实施例,银杏提取物1-28中某个实施例以及前两种提取物按重量比3:1至1:1.5的混合物(见表5)分别用0.05摩尔的磷酸钠稀释成待测样品溶液。将以上三种提取物的稀释溶液各240微升分别加入40微升的酪氨酸,加入20微升的酪氨酸酶,之后将三种混合液置于37摄氏度的温度下反应15分钟,之后测量490纳米的吸收峰,
与此相对应,一种不含上述三种提取物的溶液作为对照组溶液进行比对,因此,根据等式1计算出酪氨酸酶活性的抑制率,见表5
酪氨酸酶活性抑制率(%)={1—吸光度(比较组溶液)/吸光度(对照组溶液)}*100
表5
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000008
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000009
通过表5可以看出:分别选取红景天和银杏前10个提取物对比,红景天提取物和银杏提取物分别具有良好的抑制酪氨酸酶的效果。此外,红景天与银杏提取物分别以不同重量比进行组合后酪氨酸酶活性抑制率显著提升。
功效验证2:
红景天提取物与银杏提取物抑制黑色素生成的功效
取小鼠黑色素瘤B-16细胞,注入带有每盘12个格子的试验盘中,所注入的B-16细胞的浓度各为104,培养时间为1天,然后在每个格子中加入不同的植物提取物及组合并培养3-4天,之后将每个各种中的培养基用离心机分离。分 离后的细胞用500微升一个当量浓度的氢氧化钠二甲亚砜溶液中溶解,然后在水浴锅(90摄氏度)中加热10分钟。然后再将溶解后的细胞离心分离并测量上清液的在570纳米的吸光度;作为对照组,将B-16细胞按照之上的方法处理但不添加任何植物提取物。
黑色素细胞的抑制率可以通过等式2计算出,请见表6
黑素细胞抑制率(%)={1—吸光度(比较组细胞)/吸光度(对照组细胞)}*100
表6
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000010
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000011
通过表6可以看出,分别选取红景天和银杏前10个提取物对比,红景天提取物和银杏提取物分别具有良好的黑色素生成抑制效果。同时,红景天与银杏提取物分别以不同重量比进行组合后黑色素生成抑制率显著提升。
采用不同萃取方法获得的红景天提取物,银杏提取物以及两者以不同重量比组合的提取物具有确切抑制黑色素瘤细胞中黑色素的生长的效果,没有观察到细胞毒性的产生。
本发明红景天和银杏提取物在美白化妆品中的应用中,红景天与银杏具有协同美白的作用,且两者的重量比为2.5:1至1:1.5。根据此比例,红景天/银杏提取物在本发明应用中使用的重量比为百分之5至百分之20,并进一步优化为百分之5至百分之15。应用显示具有极好的皮肤美白的效果。
红景天/银杏提取液
本发明通过以上针对红景天和银杏的提取,分别获得红景天提取物干粉和银杏提取物干粉,通过实验发现,当红景天提取物与银杏提取物以提取物干粉重量比3:1至1:2的比例组合时,其抑制酪氨酸酶活性并减少黑色素的效果会比其单项测试时高,且红景天提取物干粉与银杏提取物干粉重量比进一步优化为2.5:1至1:1.5;
本发明红景天/银杏提取液是通过红景天提取物干粉和银杏提取物干粉作为活性成份,并配以适当的溶剂组合而成。
本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天与银杏提取液,其组分及含量为:
(1)占提取液重量0.03%至10%的红景天提取物干粉;
(2)占提取液重量0.01%至15%的银杏提取物干粉;
(3)占提取液重量25%至80%的乙醇;
(4)占提取液重量1%至15%的1,3丁二醇;
(5)占提取液重量0.15%至0.3%的EDTA-2钠;
(6)余量为水
本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天与银杏提取液,其中红景天提
取物干粉占提取液重量的0.3%至5%;银杏提取物干粉占提取液重量的0.1%至7.5%;乙醇占提取液重量的50%至70%;1,3丁二醇占提取液重量的2%至10%;见表7
本发明提取液含有重量百分比0.05%至0.5%的螯合剂,该螯合剂为化妆品常用的乙二胺四乙酸二钠(EDTA-2钠),进一步优化为占提取液重量百分比0.15%至0.3%。
表7
红景天/银杏提取液配方
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000012
红景天与银杏提取液在美白化妆品中的应用
下文中将列举红景天与银杏提取液以不同重量比的提取液应用于美白化妆品中的例子,如美白面膜精华液,美白润肤乳以及美白滋养霜,本举例只用来佐证红景天提取物与银杏提取物的美白效果,本发明不限于这项实施例,只要是在化妆品可接受的载体范围的所有配方都可以获得应用。
本发明应用于化妆品的植物提取物如红景天提取物与银杏提取物不是以干粉的形式直接添加于化妆品中的,而是以提取液的形式应用于化妆品中的,
红景天、银杏提取液的制作方法:
(1)将红景天和银杏提取物干粉以重量比3:1至1:2比例称重,
(2)将(1)称重好的提取物干粉加入到乙醇中,搅拌分散并充分溶解后再加入1,3丁二醇
(3)最后加入余量的水,并搅拌均匀。
红景天与银杏的重量比为3:1至1:2,进一步优化为2,5:1至1:1.5。
本发明红景天与银杏美白提取物在化妆品中的应用:
本发明提取液在化妆品中的应用,除了红景天与银杏提取液作为美白活性成份外,还包括一些可以应用的配方剂型及化妆品可接受的载体,一些化妆品可接受的载体如常规使用的添加剂,抗氧剂,稳定剂,增溶剂,维他命,色素和香精,及其它载体成份等。
本发明红景天与银杏提取液可以应用于常规的任意的组合物配方形式,如可以是一种溶液,乳液,粘贴片,凝胶,膏霜,营养水,粉剂,香皂,含有表面活性剂的清洁用品,润肤油,粉类粉底,乳液粉底,蜡状固体粉底,喷雾等,然后本发明进一步优化为,爽肤水,奶状营养液,营养霜,按摩霜,精华液(面膜),眼霜,清洁霜,清洁泡沫,清洁水等,
本发明提取液应用的形式如果是粘贴片,膏霜或凝胶,其化妆品可接收到载体可能是动物油脂,植物油脂,蜡,矿物油,淀粉,汉生胶,纤维素衍生物,,聚乙二醇,硅油,膨润土,二氧化硅,滑石粉或氧化锌。
本发明提取液应用的形式如果是粉剂或喷雾,其化妆品可接收到载体可能是乳糖,滑石粉,二氧化硅,氢氧化铝,硅酸钙,尼龙PMPM等。
本发明提取液应用的形式如果是粘爽肤水或乳液,其化妆品可接收到载体可能是溶剂,增溶剂,或乳化剂,如水,乙醇,异丙醇,碳酸乙酯,醋酸乙酯,苯甲醇,苯甲酸苄酯,丙二醇,甘油脂肪酸酯,聚乙二醇脂肪酸酯等。
本发明提取液应用的形式如果是悬浮液,其化妆品可接受的载体可能是液体稀释剂如水,乙醇,丙二醇,一种悬浮剂如乙氧基化异硬脂醇,聚氧乙烯山梨醇酯或聚氧乙烯脱水山梨醇酯,微晶纤维素,氢氧化铝,高岭土,汉生胶等。
如果本发明提取液应用的配方是一种含有表面活性剂的清洁组合物,其化妆品可接收到载体可能是脂肪醇硫酸盐,脂肪醇聚醚硫酸盐,磺基琥珀酸单酯,羟乙基磺酸盐,咪唑啉衍生物,肌氨酸盐,甜菜碱,脂肪醇,脂肪酸甘油酯,脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺,植物油,羊毛脂衍生物,乙氧基化甘油脂肪酸酯等。
如果本发明提取液应用的形式是个香皂,一种含有表面活性剂或不含有表面活性剂的清洁组合物,使用时可以用湿纸巾抹去或用水冲洗的。香皂包括但不限于液体香皂,粉状香皂,固体香皂盒油皂;所述含有表面活性剂的皮肤清洁组合物包括但不限于清洁泡沫,清洁水,清洁纸巾;所述不含有表面活性剂的皮肤清洁组合物包括但不限于清洁霜,清洁乳液,清洁水和清洁凝胶等。
本发明将利用配方应用实施例详细描述发明的全过程。必须指出的是,这些实施例仅作为本发明解释性的说明或叙述,本发明的应用范围不以此作为限定。
本发明在化妆品中的应用,除了对本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天和银杏提取物及相关工艺有限定外,构成配方应用实施例中的其它原料为化妆品可接受的载体,其组成及重量百分比在不影响配方技术或现有技术所需求的范围内不作限定。
以下配方应用实施例只用来说明本发明所含有一种具有协同美白功效的红景天和银杏提取物在日常配方应用中的百分比及其美白的功效,从而印证本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天和银杏提取液所具有的美白效果。
配方应用实施例1
美白面膜精华液
本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天和银杏提取液在美白面膜精华液中的应用,见表8
表8美白面膜精华液
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000013
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000014
配方应用实施例2
美白润肤乳液
本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天和银杏提取液在美白润肤乳液中的应用,见表9
表9美白润肤乳液
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000015
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000016
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000017
配方应用实施例3
美白滋养霜
本发明本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天和银杏提取液在美白滋养霜中的应用,见表10
表10美白滋养霜
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000018
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000019
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000020
功效验证3:
本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天和银杏提取液美白功效验证。
选择年龄20-40岁皮肤偏黑的女性进行临床测试(要求测试者无光过敏史,无化妆品过敏史),在每个测试者的手臂部位划定三个大约1平方厘米的区位并标注记号,三个区位分别(1)代表使用含有提取液的本发明组合物,(2)使用不含提取液的本发明组合物,(3)以及空白对照,除了空白对照区域(3)不涂抹任何东西外,区域(1)和区域(2)分别涂抹其中每个化妆品组合物,并且连续涂抹8周,8周后测试皮肤三个区域的皮肤颜色(L值),测试仪器选用Lab色度系统光谱光度仪-美能达CR-300测量出使用产品前后色差的变化,并计算出皮肤色度的变化值(ΔL),其原理是,皮肤中的黑色素越多,L值就越小,反之越大!因此ΔL色差越大则效果越好!
配方实施例1
美白面膜精华液配方ΔL值对比和测试结果,见表11
表11
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000021
配方实施例2
美白润肤乳液配方ΔL值对比和测试结果,见表12
表12
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000022
配方实施例3
美白滋养霜ΔL值对比和测试结果,见表13
表13
Figure PCTCN2015088733-appb-000023
通过以上ΔL值对比和测试结果可以得出,8周后皮肤的色差值ΔL值结果显示,本发明一种具有协同美白功效的红景天与银杏叶提取液具有较好的皮肤美白效果。

Claims (7)

  1. 一种含有红景天与银杏活性成份的提取液,其组分及含量为:
    (1)占提取液重量0.03%至10%的红景天提取物干粉;
    (2)占提取液重量0.01%至15%的银杏提取物干粉;
    (3)占提取液重量50%至70%的乙醇;
    (4)占提取液重量2%至10%的1,3丁二醇;
    (5)占提取液重量0.15%至0.3%的EDTA-2钠;
    (6)余量为水。
    其中红景天提取物干粉与银杏提取物干粉重量比为3:1至1:2。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的提取液,红景天提取物干粉和银杏提取物干粉的提取工艺为:
    a、将红景天药材或银杏药材用清水洗净并放入带有冷凝装置的萃取容器,加入萃取溶剂,溶剂选自于水,乙醇,丙酮,乙酸乙酯,乙酸丁酯和1,3丁二醇,且溶剂的重量为干药材重量的1-10倍;
    b、将按比例加入萃取溶剂的(a)进行萃取,在40-50摄氏度之间的温度加热5个小时;
    c、将萃取后的(b)用300目过滤网进行过滤,并将过滤后的萃取物置放于10摄氏度的温度下并放置8天时间陈化,之后将滤液用5号滤纸进行过滤;
    d、干燥处理,使用真空旋转蒸发器将过滤完成后的(c)进行蒸馏干燥,获得提取物干粉。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的提取液,红景天提取物干粉与银杏提取物干粉重量比为2.5:1至1:1.5。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的提取液,红景天提取物干粉占提取液重量0.3%至5%;银杏提取物干粉占提取液重量0.1%至7.5%。
  5. 根据权利要求2所述的提取液,红景天药材为大花红景天的花和叶;银杏药材为银杏叶。
  6. 根据权利要求2所述的提取液,所选用的溶剂为70%的乙醇;所选用的溶剂重量为干药材重量的6倍。
  7. 权利要求1所述的提取液在美白化妆品中的应用。
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