WO2016033899A1 - Dandruff removing composition for adjusting scalp oil balance - Google Patents

Dandruff removing composition for adjusting scalp oil balance Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016033899A1
WO2016033899A1 PCT/CN2014/093562 CN2014093562W WO2016033899A1 WO 2016033899 A1 WO2016033899 A1 WO 2016033899A1 CN 2014093562 W CN2014093562 W CN 2014093562W WO 2016033899 A1 WO2016033899 A1 WO 2016033899A1
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composition
weight
scalp
dandruff
present
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PCT/CN2014/093562
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French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
赵文忠
洪盛杰
谷志静
胡卫华
董志扬
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拉芳家化股份有限公司
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Publication of WO2016033899A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016033899A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of daily chemistry, and in particular relates to a composition for regulating dander by balancing sebaceous sebaceum.
  • the dandruff is born on the scalp and is a large amount of desquamation caused by excessive proliferation of scalp keratinocytes. About 60% of adults in China suffer from dandruff problems to varying degrees, and 15% of them are very serious. At present, although the personal care products claimed by the anti-dandruff function are endless, 70% of the people who use the anti-dandruff products think that the effect is not satisfactory.
  • dandruff The pathogenesis of dandruff has not yet been clarified. There are several theories about the cause of dandruff, the most important of which is the mechanism of action of Malassezia. Numerous studies have shown that Malassezia is closely related to the occurrence and severity of dandruff. The proliferation of Malassezia on the scalp causes excessive proliferation of the stratum corneum of the scalp, which causes the stratum corneum cells to fall off in the form of white or gray scales. This shedding scaly is dandruff.
  • Malassezia belongs to the yeast single-cell fungus and survives by consuming fatty acids in sebum. It is lipid-dependent and easily grows on sebum-rich skin.
  • the result of an inflammatory reaction caused by Malassezia is the excessive proliferation of scalp cells in the scalp, usually accompanied by abnormalities in the scalp ultrastructure. Occurrence includes incomplete keratinization, abnormal keratinous membrane, lipids contained in scalp cells and between cells.
  • the stratum corneum stripping agent removes damaged epidermal cells from the stratum corneum by desquamation to achieve dandruff removal.
  • Early anti-dandruff agents such as salicylic acid, sulfur, and shampoos containing coal tar, fall into this category.
  • the odor of such products is poor and irritating, and its effect is not superior to other dandruff products, and long-term application will also destroy the epidermal structure to disturb the balance of the epidermis, which has certain damage to the skin.
  • the third type is anti- Microbial preparations achieve the purpose of inhibiting dandruff by inhibiting or destroying the formation of microbial entities, and their anti-dandruff action depends on the number of Malassezia that can reduce or control the scalp.
  • antimicrobial preparations have been widely used in anti-dandruff products.
  • ketoconazole, clomiprazole and pyrithione in shampoos for dandruff in pharmacies or supermarkets are all antimicrobial agents.
  • Shampoos containing ketoconazole and clomiprazole are mostly sold in hospitals and pharmacies, such as shampoos such as Picker.
  • Anti-dandruff products containing Zinconazole ZPT are widely sold in shopping malls and barbershops, such as Head & Shoulders, Avon and other anti-dandruff shampoos, but also have poor solubility and strong degreasing ability.
  • the current mainstream products on the market are the number of Malassezia that inhibits the growth of microorganisms.
  • the overall anti-dandruff effect is also good, but the only drawback is that the main anti-dandruff agent of anti-microbial effect, such as Zinconazole zinc ZPT, has a relatively strong degreasing property, while killing Malassezia
  • the scalp keratin barrier function is destroyed to varying degrees (see US patent PAT.NO.5053222.
  • composition of the present invention is composed of a scalp sebum regulator and a scalp barrier protectant, and restores and enhances the barrier function of the scalp by the action of both to reduce the effect of dandruff.
  • An anti-dandruff composition comprising, in addition to a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a scalp barrier protectant and a scalp sebum regulating agent, the components and contents of which are as follows:
  • compositions of N-palmitoylethanolamine Between 0.001% and 1.0% by weight of the composition of N-palmitoylethanolamine and 100% by weight of the composition a composition of 0.01%-20% N-acetylethanolamine, and the weight ratio of the two is 1:100;
  • composition By weight of the composition is from 0.1% to 15% of trimethylglycine and salicylate of the composition by weight of 0.05% to 3% of vitamin B 12.
  • the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention wherein the N-palmitoylethanolamine content is optimized to be from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of the composition; and the N-acetylethanolamine is from 0.05% to 10% by weight of the composition. And the weight ratio of N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-palmitoylethanolamine was further optimized to 1:50.
  • Anti-dandruff compositions of the present invention wherein the content of trimethylglycine salicylate optimization of the composition by weight of 0.2% to 8%; vitamin B 12 weight percent of the composition is 0.1% -2%.
  • the skin barrier protectant in the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention is preferably hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine in an amount of from 0.05% to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention further comprises from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight of the composition of allantoin and 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the allantoin content is optimized to be from 0.08% to 0.2% by weight of the composition.
  • An anti-dandruff composition having a composition and content of:
  • N-acetylethanolamine in an amount of 0.625% by weight of the composition
  • the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention adopts a method of non-traditional inhibition and killing of Malassezia, and achieves synergy between scalp sebum regulation and scalp barrier protection, and the synergistic cooperation between the two can help the scalp
  • the normal thickness of the water-lipid membrane is restored, and the scalp lipid dynamic balance is established, and the scalp barrier function is restored to reduce the dandruff.
  • the anti-dandruff technique of the present invention can be applied to hair dandruff conditioner, anti-dandruff shampoo, etc., and the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention only explains the advantage of the anti-dandruff of the present invention in the form of a lotion formulation.
  • Oily dandruff is dandruff produced by oily hair. It is large in block shape and easily adheres to the scalp and hair. It is less likely to fall off the shoulder and the color is partial. yellow. Oily dandruff is caused by excess oil irritating the scalp and inducing excessive reproduction of harmful bacteria (such as Maize), thereby destroying the balance of the scalp, causing abnormal metabolism of the scalp and causing the increase of dead skin, resulting in a large amount of dandruff.
  • harmful bacteria such as Maize
  • the scalp oil has the function of protecting the scalp barrier, moisturizing and protecting the scalp and hair. Too much can not be done, so it is very important to find an effective way to regulate the scalp sebum.
  • the effect of the scalp sebum regulation of the present invention is to establish a balance between the oil and the dryness of the scalp. Over-tempering and removing scalp lipids while preventing excessive keratinization or shedding of the scalp, the previous regulation of scalp oil is through exfoliation of the stratum corneum and exfoliation of the stratum corneum by removing the damaged epidermal cells in the stratum corneum by desquamation. And to achieve the effect of removing dandruff. Early anti-dandruff agents, such as salicylic acid, sulfur, and shampoos containing coal tar, fall into this category.
  • the invention has undergone a large number of experiments, and the synergistic action of the scalp sebum regulator and the scalp barrier protectant acts to reduce and inhibit dandruff.
  • the scalp sebum regulator of the present invention uses a derivative of salicylic acid and vitamin B.
  • the substance, salicylic acid derivative is trimethylglycine salicylate, which can gently balance scalp sebum
  • vitamin B is made of vitamin B 12
  • vitamin B 12 can well nourish the scalp and inhibit excessive scalp.
  • the combination of a salicylic acid derivative and vitamin B plays a key role in regulating the sebum of the scalp.
  • the invention has found through a large number of experiments that the scalp barrier protection effect can be achieved by the endogenous lipid component of the skin and the extreme halophilic solute.
  • the endogenous lipid components in the skin include N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-acetylethanolamine, and the extreme halophilic solute is tetrahydropyrimidine and a derivative of tetrahydropyrimidine, hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine, which restores and enhances the scalp barrier function.
  • the invention is based on the joint efforts of Lafang Jiahua Co., Ltd., the Institute of Microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences and BASF of Germany, to study the problem of dandruff from the relationship between scalp health, scalp microenvironment and dandruff, and the present invention is more specific to the study.
  • the present invention starts from the root of dandruff, that is, the scalp, and restores and strengthens the function of the scalp stratum corneum barrier, so that the scalp can effectively resist the invasion of bacteria and fungi, thereby further preventing and reducing.
  • the production of dandruff is based on the joint efforts of Lafang Jiahua Co., Ltd., the Institute of Microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences and BASF of Germany, to study the problem of dandruff from the relationship between scalp health, scalp microenvironment and dandruff, and the present invention is more
  • the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention achieves the effect of inhibiting and reducing dandruff by regulating the balance of scalp sebum and enhancing the function of the scalp barrier.
  • the anti-dandruff composition contains, in addition to a cosmetically acceptable carrier, the active ingredients as follows:
  • the scalp barrier protectant consists of the endogenous lipid component of the skin and the halophilic solute of the extreme:
  • the endogenous lipid component of the skin is 0.001%-1.0% by weight of the composition of N-palmitoylethanolamine and 0.01%-20% by weight of the composition of N-acetylethanolamine, and the weight ratio of the two is 1 :100; the extreme halophilic solute is one of tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine,
  • the scalp barrier protective agent in the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention is composed of an endogenous lipid component of the skin and an extremely halophilic solute: wherein the skin endogenous lipids include N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-acetylethanolamine.
  • N-palmitoylethanolamine has a molecular formula of C 18 H 37 NO 2 , a molecular weight of 299.49 g mol -1 and a melting point of 59 to 60 ° C (138 to 140 ° F; 332 to 333 K).
  • N-acetylethanolamine has the formula: CH 3 -CO-NH-C 2 H 4 OH, the substance is a viscous liquid at room temperature, density (DIN/20 degrees Celsius) 1.12, molecular weight 103, boiling point 155 degrees Celsius (5mmHg), density 1.052g/cm 3 .
  • the skin endogenous lipid component is further optimized to be 0.005%-0.5% by weight of the composition of N-palmitoylethanolamine and 0.05%-10% by weight of the composition. N-acetylethanolamine.
  • the weight ratio of N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-palmitoylethanolamine in the present invention is further optimized to be 1:50.
  • the moisturizing factor in human skin including lactic acid, sodium lactate, hyaluronic acid, urea, amino acid, lecithin, etc., is an indispensable physiological function moisturizing factor in human skin.
  • the invention relates to a moisturizing agent extracted from a high salt-tolerant and high-cold microorganism (extreme halophilic bacteria) in an extreme environment.
  • extreme environment On Earth, the environment outside the biosphere where humans live is called the extreme environment, which means that the physical and chemical conditions reach or exceed the life tolerance range.
  • Microorganisms that can grow in extreme environments are called extreme microorganisms such as halophilic microorganisms.
  • Hot microorganisms, psychrophilic microorganisms have been acidophilic microorganisms, etc. It is worth noting that these extreme microorganisms not only “tolerate” these extreme environments, but also require one or more extreme conditions for better growth and reproduction, among which moderate Halophilic microorganisms are one of them.
  • the present invention is applied to a microorganism that grows in an extreme environment, that is, a high salt and alpine environment.
  • Solute-tetrahydropyrimidine and its derivative hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine (Ph.D., 2005.11.16 Zhao Baisuo) tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine as stabilizers extracted from the genus Salicorella and C. It protects microorganisms from enzymes, DNA and macromolecules. It acts against microbes in extreme environments, resists high salt, resists drying, freezes and prevents heat denaturation. It is a molecular chaperone and protection for extreme microorganisms to survive in extreme environments. God.
  • the application of tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine in cosmetics has also received more and more attention. It was developed by Merck and the Institute of Microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences.
  • the solute component in the halomonas elongate of the present invention is a tetrahydropyrimidine or a derivative of tetrahydropyrimidine hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine.
  • Tetrahydropyrimidine chemical name 2 methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine 4carboxylic acid, molecular formula: C 6 H 10 N 2 O 2 , molecular weight: 142.2 g / mol, LD50 (oral-rat 2200mg/kg, white powder, SIGMA-ALDRICH, or developed by the Institute of Microbiology, Chinese Academy of Sciences.
  • the halophilic solute is preferably hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine, and the hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine according to the present invention is 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition, further optimized to be 0.05% to 1%.
  • Salicylic acid derivatives salicylic acid as a scalp sebum inhibitor and a scalp exfoliating agent have a certain irritating effect on the scalp, and often have a destructive effect on the scalp barrier. Therefore, the present invention uses a derivative of salicylic acid, namely, a top three Glycine hydrochloride.
  • Trimethylglycine salicylate and ⁇ -hydroxy acid (BHAs) in salicylic acid are similar to ⁇ -hydroxy acids (AHAs), have the function of accelerating the exfoliation of squamous keratinocytes, and are more irritating than ⁇ -hydroxy acids (AHAs). ) much lower; trimethylglycine in betaine has moisturizing, increasing skin elasticity and hydration, Substructures have both cationic and anionic charges, while human skin, including the scalp and hair, are all negatively charged under normal physiological conditions, so they contain positively charged molecules that have a natural affinity for the scalp and hair.
  • the trimethylglycine salicylic acid ester used in the present invention perfectly combines the advantages of salicylic acid extracted from willow bark and trimethylglycine extracted from betaine, and forms a unique structure of salicylic acid, which is mild. Adjusting the thickness of the scalp stratum corneum to a relatively ideal state, which contributes to the formation and improvement of the scalp barrier function, and has a gentle regulation effect on the scalp and hair lipids.
  • the scalp sebum regulator of the present invention is trimethylglycine salicylate in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight of the composition, and is further optimized to be 0.2% to 8% by weight.
  • Vitamins including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, and vitamin B are all participants in the physiological functions of the human body and play different roles in human skin and metabolism. Among them, B vitamins contain many types. The role in hair and scalp and its physiological functions is also prominent. Among them, B vitamins include B 1 , B 2 , B 3 , B 5 , B 6 , B 12 , etc. According to previous applications and literature reports, the role of provitamin B 5 in scalp and hair nourishment is a recognized fact. , Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, et al. Br J Dermatol. 2000; 143: 524-531. and J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun; 8(2): 96-101. Reported that vitamin B 3 has A function of enhancing the skin barrier and controlling the secretion of oil from the skin, U.S. Patent No. 6,110,472 discloses a cosmetic composition containing vitamin B 12 for the treatment of abnormal scalp detachment.
  • the scalp sebum regulating agent of the present invention has a range of vitamin B 1 , vitamin B 2 , vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 6 , provitamin B 5 , and vitamin B 12 .
  • the vitamin B of the present invention is further screened for vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 6 and vitamin B. 12 and further preferred vitamin B 12 .
  • the vitamin B 12 of the present invention comprises from 0.05% to 3% by weight of the composition, and is further optimized to be from 0.1% to 2%.
  • Scalp soothing agent scalp soothing agent includes allantoin, licorice flavonoids, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, etc.
  • dipotassium glycyrrhizinate white fine powder, sweet taste, and medicine, can activate corticosteroids (inhibition of metabolism) Enzyme).
  • corticosteroids inhibitor of metabolism
  • the above specifications are UV ⁇ 98%, and HPLC ⁇ 76% (refers to the active ingredient of glycyrrhizic acid).
  • Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate has a chemical formula of C 42 H 60 K 2 O 16 , a molecular weight of 899.1128, and a pH of 5-6.
  • Licorice flavonoids are natural ingredients extracted from specific varieties of licorice, licorice flavonoids such as licorice, licorice and aspartame, mannitol, etc., and the compound extracted from licorice - licorice flavonoids in beauty cosmetics
  • licorice flavonoids also inhibit tyrosinase activity, scavenging oxygen base, which has anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic effects.
  • Flavonoids flavonoids brown-red thick liquid, insoluble in water and various oil esters, soluble in ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin and some organic solvents.
  • allantoin is an amphoteric compound, it can form a complex combination of various substances to keep the skin moist, moisturized and soft. It is a special additive for cosmetics such as beauty salons. It is widely used in freckle cream, acne, shampoo, soap, Additives such as toothpaste, shave lotion, hair conditioner, astringent, anti-sweat deodorant lotion, etc. Cosmetics containing allantoin have the functions of protecting tissues, hydrophilicity, water absorption and preventing water dispersion;
  • the scalp soothing agent in the present invention is preferably allantoin.
  • allantoin is mainly used for its soothing action on the scalp, and has a softening effect on the stratum corneum of the scalp. Helps the scalp to build a water-lipid film to enhance the hydration of the skin surface and reduce the loss of transepidermal water, thereby synergistically enhancing the barrier function of the skin.
  • allantoin comprises from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight of the composition, and is further optimized to be from 0.08% to 0.2%.
  • the polyol may be 1,3 butanediol, propylene glycol, glycerin (glycerol), 1,2-pentanediol, ethanol, etc., and glycerin is preferred in the present invention, and the amount used is composition.
  • the weight percentage is from 1% to 10% and is further optimized to be from 2% to 8% by weight of the composition.
  • Thickeners which can be used in the present invention include acrylic acid polymers, carbopol resins, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, etc., and the use of xanthan gum in the present invention is preferably used in an amount of 0.02 by weight of the composition. % to 0.5% and further optimized to 0.05% to 0.3% by weight of the composition.
  • the chelating agent which can be used in the present invention includes disodium edetate and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate.
  • disodium edetate is preferably used in an amount of 0.01% by weight of the composition. To 0.1%, and further optimized to be from 0.02% to 0.1% by weight of the composition.
  • preservatives which can be used in the present invention include parabens, diazoalkyl ureas, phenoxyethanol, etc., and phenoxyethanol is preferably used in the present invention, and the amount used is 0.1% to 1.0% by weight of the composition. %, and further optimized to account for 0.5% to 0.8% by weight of the composition.
  • An anti-dandruff composition of the present invention which modulates sebum balance of the scalp can be prepared by any known or otherwise effective technique suitable for providing a hair care composition, and the process of the present invention comprises conventional formulation and mixing techniques. Adding disodium edetate, allantoin, xanthan gum, glycerin, etc. to the components of the present invention in deionized water by weight, heating to 80 degrees and stirring to dissolve until transparent, and then stirring while cooling, when the temperature When reduced to 45 degrees, add vitamin B 12 , N-palmitoylethanolamine, N-acetylethanolamine, hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine and trimethylglycine salicylate, respectively, by stirring, dissolve, and finally add preservatives and flavors. , a pigment, a pH adjuster, and the pH adjuster of the anti-dandruff composition is adjusted to 7.
  • the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention for regulating the sebum balance of the scalp is used in the conventional manner of cleaning and conditioning the scalp, and mainly comprises the following steps:
  • anti-dandruff compositions of the present invention are non-limiting examples.
  • the examples are given for the purpose of illustration only, and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. In these examples, all concentrations are by weight unless otherwise stated.
  • the efficacy evaluation of the present invention is carried out based on the technical means employed in the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention.
  • the anti-dandruff composition of the invention adopts the technical scheme of non-traditional inhibition and killing of Malassezia, but is realized by the synergistic action of scalp sebum regulation and scalp barrier protection, and the synergistic cooperation between the two can help scalp recovery
  • the normal thickness of the water lipid film establishes the dynamic balance of the scalp lipid and restores the scalp barrier function to reduce the dandruff. Therefore, in the efficacy test, the protective effect of the scalp barrier function was examined by the instrument TEWL method and the evaluation of the itching and anti-dandruff effect of the sensory evaluation test example.
  • the instrument test method is to test the value of TEWL of transepidermal water loss in the scalp.
  • the larger the TEWL value the faster the loss of water in the scalp, indicating that the barrier effect of the scalp is worse. Conversely, the smaller the TEWL value of the test indicates that the scalp remains moisture. The ability to be strong indicates that the scalp barrier function is enhanced.
  • the measuring instrument used in the present invention model: Delfin/VapoMeter, measuring range: 3-200 g/m 2 h. Test site: top position.
  • the sensory evaluation method mainly tests the sensory effect of the embodiment on the anti-dandruff, and the sensory evaluation method of the complex head is: distributing the prepared embodiment to the tester, and the living habits in the process of using the sample of the embodiment of the invention
  • the shampoo brands used did not change. None of the samples of the examples were used for four weeks, and the testers scored according to their own feelings, wherein the antipruritic effect was based on the start of the itching. It is scored by the degree of itching, and the anti-dandruff effect is scored according to the amount and size of the dandruff.
  • the tester used the anti-dandruff composition sample, which was used after shampooing, and was used continuously for four weeks and three times a week.
  • the first day of the week begins to calculate the start, according to the occurrence of itching and the onset of dandruff, if the first day of the fifth week begins to score 1 point, the next day 2 points, and so on If the itch starts on the seventh day, score 7 points.
  • the scoring standard uses a 7-point scale, with 1 being the worst and 7 being the best. The higher the score, the better the better.
  • Table 1 The higher the score, the better the better.
  • the method of use was based on the method of use of the present invention, and the 7th day, the 14th day, the 21st day, the 28th, respectively.
  • the TEWL value of the scalp was measured (averaged) in days and scored according to the above requirements to observe the degree of dandruff;
  • the present inventions I to X were respectively used, and the method of use was determined according to the method of use of the present invention, and the scalp was measured on the 7th day, the 14th day, the 21st day, and the 28th day, respectively.
  • control blank 1 of the present invention was used as required, and the percutaneous water loss value of the scalp on the 7th day after use and the transepidermal water loss value on the 28th day after use were measured, and the scalp transepidermal water loss value on the 28th day was measured.
  • the decrease of 0.8% indicates that the value of transepidermal water loss of the scalp is not changed after the use of blank 1;
  • the control blank 2 of the present invention measures the transepidermal water loss value of the scalp on the 7th day after use and the scalp on the 28th day after use.
  • Percutaneous water loss values showed that the transepidermal water loss value of the scalp decreased by 1.4% on the 28th day, indicating that the value of transepidermal water loss of the scalp did not change much after using the blank 2, which was equivalent to no change.
  • the measured transepidermal water loss value of the scalp was reduced to a different extent on the 28th day than the seventh day (for example, in the example VI with the least reduction value, the TEWL was reduced by 15.7%, such as Example VII with the largest reduction value, TEWL decreased by 34.6%), indicating that the scalp barrier function was enhanced after using the embodiment of the present invention; and the antipruritic effect and the anti-dandruff effect obtained by the sensory evaluation method were obtained with blank 1 and blank 2
  • the sensory effect contrast has been greatly improved, indicating that the present invention inhibits and reduces dandruff by regulating the balance of scalp sebum and the enhancement of scalp barrier function without containing bacteriostatic and bactericidal agents.

Abstract

A dandruff removing composition, comprising a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a scalp barrier protection agent and a scalp sebum adjusting agent; the scalp barrier protection agent comprises 0.001 wt% to 1.0 wt% of N-palmitoylethanolamine, 0.01 wt% to 20 wt% of N-acetylethanolamine and 0.01 wt% to 2 wt% of tetrahydropyrimidine or hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine, a weight ratio of the N-palmitoylethanolamine and the N-acetylethanolamine being 1:100. The scalp sebum adjusting agent comprises 0.1 wt% to 15 wt% of trimethylglycine salicylate and 0.05 wt% to 3 wt% of vitamin B12.

Description

一种调节头皮油脂平衡的去屑组合物Anti-dandruff composition for regulating balance of scalp oil 技术领域Technical field
本发明属日化领域,具体涉及一种通过调节头皮皮脂平衡的皮屑的组合物。The invention belongs to the field of daily chemistry, and in particular relates to a composition for regulating dander by balancing sebaceous sebaceum.
背景技术Background technique
头屑是又头皮而生,是头皮角质细胞过度增生而引起的大量脱屑现象,我国大约有60%的成年人不同程度地受到头屑问题的困扰,其中15%的人症状十分严重。目前,虽然去屑功能宣称的个人护理产品层出不穷,但使用去屑产品人群中70%的人认为效果并不理想。The dandruff is born on the scalp and is a large amount of desquamation caused by excessive proliferation of scalp keratinocytes. About 60% of adults in China suffer from dandruff problems to varying degrees, and 15% of them are very serious. At present, although the personal care products claimed by the anti-dandruff function are endless, 70% of the people who use the anti-dandruff products think that the effect is not satisfactory.
头皮屑的发病机制至今尚未明确,对于头皮屑的起因有几种学说,其中最重要的是马拉色菌的作用机制。大量研究证明,马拉色菌与头皮屑的发生和严重程度密切相关。马拉色菌在头皮上的大量繁殖引起头皮角质层的过度增生,从而促使角质层细胞以白色或灰色鳞屑的形式异常脱落,这种脱落的鳞屑即为头皮屑。The pathogenesis of dandruff has not yet been clarified. There are several theories about the cause of dandruff, the most important of which is the mechanism of action of Malassezia. Numerous studies have shown that Malassezia is closely related to the occurrence and severity of dandruff. The proliferation of Malassezia on the scalp causes excessive proliferation of the stratum corneum of the scalp, which causes the stratum corneum cells to fall off in the form of white or gray scales. This shedding scaly is dandruff.
马拉色菌属于酵母菌类单细胞真菌,通过消耗皮脂中的脂肪酸而生存。它是脂依赖型,易于生长在皮脂丰富的皮肤上。马拉色菌在头屑形成病因中的作用机制:头皮上的马拉色菌通过释放脂酶分解皮脂中的甘油三酯,引发了甘油三酯的水解,使其产生不饱和脂肪酸,它们破坏了头皮屏障—角质层,导致不饱和脂肪酸内渗进入表皮,刺激皮肤产生了炎症反应。马拉色菌引起炎症反应的结果是引发头皮角质细胞的过度增生,一般还会伴随头皮超微结构异常的 发生,包括角化不完全、异常的角质被膜、被包含在头皮细胞中和细胞间的脂质等。Malassezia belongs to the yeast single-cell fungus and survives by consuming fatty acids in sebum. It is lipid-dependent and easily grows on sebum-rich skin. The mechanism of action of Malassezia in the etiology of dandruff: Malassezia on the scalp breaks down triglycerides in sebum by releasing lipase, triggering the hydrolysis of triglycerides, which produces unsaturated fatty acids, which destroy The scalp barrier, the stratum corneum, causes the infiltration of unsaturated fatty acids into the epidermis, stimulating the skin to produce an inflammatory response. The result of an inflammatory reaction caused by Malassezia is the excessive proliferation of scalp cells in the scalp, usually accompanied by abnormalities in the scalp ultrastructure. Occurrence includes incomplete keratinization, abnormal keratinous membrane, lipids contained in scalp cells and between cells.
从去屑剂的分类及作用机制分析,主要分为以下三种类型:一是角质层剥落剂、细胞生长抑制剂和抗微生物制剂。角质层剥脱剂是通过脱屑移除角质层中受损的表皮细胞,而达到去除头屑效果的。早期的去屑剂,如水杨酸、硫磺和含有煤焦油的洗发剂都属于这一类。但此类产品的气味较差,刺激性较强,其效果并不优于其他去屑产品,而且长期应用也会破坏表皮结构扰乱表皮的自身平衡,对皮肤有一定的伤害,长期使用可能导致皮肤过敏瘙痒;二是细胞生长抑制剂,主要是通过抑制细胞复制,它的活性取决于其降低角质层细胞更替速度,随着细胞再生循环周期长度的恢复,角质化和脱屑的正常生理过程也有所改善,二硫化硒就属于这一类。绝大多数细胞生长抑制剂有一定的抗微生物活性的功能,一般来说,因头皮油性大引起的头皮屑多的人可使用,但是很多临床实验表明这类药物不能很好地控制头屑的临床症状,而且其主要成分刺激性强,使用后发质感觉粗涩,若冲洗不彻底,头发可能会脱色,少部分使用者会增加脱发,而且也存在异味等问题;第三种类型是抗微生物制剂,是通过抑制或者破坏微生物实体形成来达到抑制头皮屑的目的,其去头皮屑作用取决于能否减少或控制头皮的马拉色菌的数目。随着马拉色菌致病机理的逐渐明晰,抗微生物制剂在去屑产品中得到了广泛的应用。目前,药房或超市中去头皮屑的洗发剂中酮康唑、氯咪巴唑和吡硫翁锌均属于抗微生物制剂。含酮康唑和氯咪巴唑成分的洗发剂多在医院和药房销售,如采乐康王等洗发剂。含吡硫翁锌ZPT的抗头皮屑产品多在商场和理发店里销售,如海飞丝、雅芳等去屑洗发剂,但是也存在溶解性较差、脱脂能力较强等问题。From the classification and mechanism of action of dandruff agents, there are three main types: one is the stratum corneum exfoliating agent, the cytostatic agent and the antimicrobial preparation. The stratum corneum stripping agent removes damaged epidermal cells from the stratum corneum by desquamation to achieve dandruff removal. Early anti-dandruff agents, such as salicylic acid, sulfur, and shampoos containing coal tar, fall into this category. However, the odor of such products is poor and irritating, and its effect is not superior to other dandruff products, and long-term application will also destroy the epidermal structure to disturb the balance of the epidermis, which has certain damage to the skin. Long-term use may result in Skin allergies and itching; Second, cell growth inhibitors, mainly by inhibiting cell replication, its activity depends on its reduction of stratum corneum cell turnover rate, with the recovery of cell regeneration cycle length, normal physiological processes of keratinization and desquamation Also improved, selenium disulfide belongs to this category. Most cytostatics have a certain anti-microbial activity. Generally speaking, people with more dandruff caused by oily scalp can use it, but many clinical experiments show that these drugs do not control dandruff well. Clinical symptoms, and its main ingredients are irritating. After use, the hair feels rough. If the washing is not thorough, the hair may be discolored, a small number of users will increase hair loss, and there are also problems such as odor; the third type is anti- Microbial preparations achieve the purpose of inhibiting dandruff by inhibiting or destroying the formation of microbial entities, and their anti-dandruff action depends on the number of Malassezia that can reduce or control the scalp. With the gradual clarification of the pathogenic mechanism of Malassezia, antimicrobial preparations have been widely used in anti-dandruff products. At present, ketoconazole, clomiprazole and pyrithione in shampoos for dandruff in pharmacies or supermarkets are all antimicrobial agents. Shampoos containing ketoconazole and clomiprazole are mostly sold in hospitals and pharmacies, such as shampoos such as Picker. Anti-dandruff products containing Zinconazole ZPT are widely sold in shopping malls and barbershops, such as Head & Shoulders, Avon and other anti-dandruff shampoos, but also have poor solubility and strong degreasing ability.
目前市场上的主流产品是通过抑制微生物的生长即抑杀马拉色菌的数 目达到去头屑目的的,总体去屑效果也不错,但唯一缺陷是抗微生物效果的主流去屑剂如吡硫翁锌ZPT,具有比较强的脱脂性,在杀灭马拉色菌的同时使得头皮角质屏障功能不同程度地遭到破坏(见美国专利PAT.NO.5053222。头皮角质屏障功能的缺失易于刺激并引致头皮油脂分泌失衡,从而引致各种细菌和真菌的入侵,这一切都会使得头屑和头痒现象的反复无常,不容易解决的根本原因。The current mainstream products on the market are the number of Malassezia that inhibits the growth of microorganisms. To achieve the purpose of anti-dandruff, the overall anti-dandruff effect is also good, but the only drawback is that the main anti-dandruff agent of anti-microbial effect, such as Zinconazole zinc ZPT, has a relatively strong degreasing property, while killing Malassezia The scalp keratin barrier function is destroyed to varying degrees (see US patent PAT.NO.5053222. The lack of scalp keratin barrier function is easy to stimulate and lead to imbalance of scalp oil secretion, resulting in the invasion of various bacteria and fungi, all of which will make The whims of dandruff and itchy itch are not easy to solve.
另,有研究报道,在健康的头皮上,马拉色菌和人类相安无事,因此头皮的易感性及头皮油脂分泌量会保持相对的平衡状态,正常脱落的角质细胞零星而透明,肉眼无法察觉。而这种平衡一旦被打破,马拉色菌就会异常繁殖,造成表皮代谢加速,表皮细胞会成群大片脱落。反过来,头皮屑的反复发作使头皮细胞层严重受损,变薄的头皮细胞层失去了屏障功能,使得头皮屑现象反复发作,很难获得解决。因此,头皮屑的问题要从改善头皮皮脂平衡并建立头皮屏障功能的改善入手是本发明的重点。In addition, studies have reported that on healthy scalp, Malassezia and humans have nothing to worry about, so the susceptibility of the scalp and the amount of scalp oil secretion will remain relatively balanced. Normally exfoliated keratinocytes are sporadic and transparent, and the naked eye cannot aware. Once this balance is broken, Malassezia will multiply abnormally, causing the epidermal metabolism to accelerate, and the epidermal cells will fall off in large groups. In turn, repeated episodes of dandruff severely damage the scalp cell layer, and the thinned scalp cell layer loses its barrier function, making the dandruff phenomenon recurrent and difficult to resolve. Therefore, the problem of dandruff is the focus of the present invention from the improvement of scalp sebum balance and the establishment of an improved scalp barrier function.
发明内容Summary of the invention
本发明目的是提供一种调节头皮皮脂平衡的去屑组合物。本发明组合物是由头皮皮脂调节剂和头皮屏障保护剂组成,并通过两者的作用恢复并增强头皮的屏障功能起到减少头皮屑的作用。It is an object of the present invention to provide an anti-dandruff composition which modulates sebum balance in the scalp. The composition of the present invention is composed of a scalp sebum regulator and a scalp barrier protectant, and restores and enhances the barrier function of the scalp by the action of both to reduce the effect of dandruff.
本发明的目的是通过以下技术实现的:The object of the invention is achieved by the following techniques:
一种去屑组合物,除了化妆品中可接受的载体外,含有头皮屏障保护剂和头皮皮脂调节剂,其组分及含量如下:An anti-dandruff composition comprising, in addition to a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a scalp barrier protectant and a scalp sebum regulating agent, the components and contents of which are as follows:
(1)皮肤屏障保护剂:(1) Skin barrier protectant:
为占组合物重量百分比0.001%-1.0%的N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和占组合物重量百 分比为0.01%-20%的N-乙酰乙醇胺组成,且两者的重量比为1:100;Between 0.001% and 1.0% by weight of the composition of N-palmitoylethanolamine and 100% by weight of the composition a composition of 0.01%-20% N-acetylethanolamine, and the weight ratio of the two is 1:100;
含量占组合物重量百分比为0.01%-2%的四氢嘧啶或羟基四氢嘧啶;a content of 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition of tetrahydropyrimidine or hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine;
(2)头皮皮脂调节剂:(2) scalp sebum regulator:
为占组合物重量百分比为0.1%-15%的三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯和占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-3%的维生素B12By weight of the composition is from 0.1% to 15% of trimethylglycine and salicylate of the composition by weight of 0.05% to 3% of vitamin B 12.
本发明的去屑组合物,其中N-棕榈酰乙醇胺含量优化为占组合物重量百分比为0.005%-0.5%;N-乙酰乙醇胺占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-10%。且N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和N-棕榈酰乙醇胺的重量比进一步优化为1:50。The anti-dandruff composition of the present invention wherein the N-palmitoylethanolamine content is optimized to be from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of the composition; and the N-acetylethanolamine is from 0.05% to 10% by weight of the composition. And the weight ratio of N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-palmitoylethanolamine was further optimized to 1:50.
本发明的去屑组合物,其中三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯含量优化为占组合物重量百分比为0.2%-8%;维生素B12含量占组合物重量百分比为0.1%-2%。Anti-dandruff compositions of the present invention, wherein the content of trimethylglycine salicylate optimization of the composition by weight of 0.2% to 8%; vitamin B 12 weight percent of the composition is 0.1% -2%.
本发明的去屑组合物中皮肤屏障保护剂优选羟基四氢嘧啶,其含量占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-1%。The skin barrier protectant in the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention is preferably hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine in an amount of from 0.05% to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
本发明的去屑组合物还含有占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-0.5%的尿囊素和占组合物重量百分比5%的甘油。其中尿囊素含量优化为占组合物重量百分比的0.08%-0.2%。The anti-dandruff composition of the present invention further comprises from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight of the composition of allantoin and 5% by weight of the composition. Wherein the allantoin content is optimized to be from 0.08% to 0.2% by weight of the composition.
一种去屑组合物,其组分及含量为:An anti-dandruff composition having a composition and content of:
占组合物重量百分比为0.0125%的N-棕榈酰乙醇胺,% by weight of the composition of 0.015% by weight of N-palmitoylethanolamine,
占组合物重量百分比为0.625%的N-乙酰乙醇胺,N-acetylethanolamine in an amount of 0.625% by weight of the composition,
占组合物重量百分比为0.3%的羟基四氢嘧啶,3% by weight of the composition of hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine,
占组合物重量百分比为3.4%的三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯,3% by weight of the composition of trimethylglycine salicylate,
占组合物重量百分比为1%的维生素B12,1% by weight of the composition of vitamin B 12 ,
占组合物重量百分比为0.1%的尿囊素,0.1% by weight of the composition of allantoin,
占组合物重量百分比5%的甘油, 5% by weight of the composition of glycerin,
占组合物重量百分比0.15%的汉生胶,0.1% by weight of the composition of xanthan gum,
占组合物重量百分比0.05%的乙二胺四乙酸二钠,0.05% by weight of the composition of disodium edetate,
适量的防腐剂、香精和色素,余量为去离子水,将pH值调整到7。Appropriate amount of preservatives, flavors and pigments. The balance is deionized water and the pH is adjusted to 7.
发明有益效果:本发明去屑组合物,采用非传统抑制和杀灭马拉色菌的方法,通过头皮皮脂调节与头皮屏障保护两者的协同作用得以实现,两者的协同配合能助于头皮恢复正常厚度的水脂膜,建立头皮脂质动态平衡,恢复头皮屏障功能从而起到减少头皮屑的作用。本发明去屑技术可以用于头发去屑护发素,去屑洗发露等,本发明去屑组合物仅以露剂配方形式来诠释本发明去屑的优势。Advantageous Effects of Invention: The anti-dandruff composition of the present invention adopts a method of non-traditional inhibition and killing of Malassezia, and achieves synergy between scalp sebum regulation and scalp barrier protection, and the synergistic cooperation between the two can help the scalp The normal thickness of the water-lipid membrane is restored, and the scalp lipid dynamic balance is established, and the scalp barrier function is restored to reduce the dandruff. The anti-dandruff technique of the present invention can be applied to hair dandruff conditioner, anti-dandruff shampoo, etc., and the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention only explains the advantage of the anti-dandruff of the present invention in the form of a lotion formulation.
具体实施方式detailed description
下面结合实施例对本发明进行详细说明。The invention will now be described in detail in connection with the embodiments.
通常我们把头皮屑分为油性头屑和干性头屑,油性头屑是油性发质产生的头屑,块状大,容易粘附在头皮和头发上,较少脱落到肩部,颜色偏黄。油性头屑是由于多余油脂刺激头皮并诱发有害菌(如马来色菌)的过多繁殖,从而破坏头皮的菌群平衡,造成头皮的代谢异常并引发脱落的死皮增多,使头皮屑大量产生,这就是我们通常所说的油性头屑;干性头屑干性发质产生的头屑,块状小而多,容易脱落到肩部,颜色偏白,这是由于头皮油脂分泌不足,头皮的屏障功能丧失,头皮的代谢异常,脱落的死皮增多,所以出现大量的头皮屑,也就是我们通常说的干性头屑。Usually we divide dandruff into oily dandruff and dry dandruff. Oily dandruff is dandruff produced by oily hair. It is large in block shape and easily adheres to the scalp and hair. It is less likely to fall off the shoulder and the color is partial. yellow. Oily dandruff is caused by excess oil irritating the scalp and inducing excessive reproduction of harmful bacteria (such as Maize), thereby destroying the balance of the scalp, causing abnormal metabolism of the scalp and causing the increase of dead skin, resulting in a large amount of dandruff. Produced, this is what we usually call oily dandruff; dry dandruff dry hair produces dandruff, small and many pieces, easy to fall off the shoulder, the color is white, which is due to insufficient secretion of scalp oil. The barrier function of the scalp is lost, the metabolism of the scalp is abnormal, and the dead skin is lost. Therefore, a large amount of dandruff, which is commonly referred to as dry dandruff, occurs.
头皮油脂具有保护头皮屏障功能,起到滋润和保护头皮和头发的作用,过多不行,少也不行,因此找到一种有效的调节头皮皮脂的方法非常重要。The scalp oil has the function of protecting the scalp barrier, moisturizing and protecting the scalp and hair. Too much can not be done, so it is very important to find an effective way to regulate the scalp sebum.
本发明头皮皮脂调节的作用是在头皮的油和干之间建立起一种平衡,即通 过温和去除头皮脂质物质并同时防止头皮的过度角化或脱落实现的,以往的头皮油脂调节一是通过角质层剥落、角质层剥脱是通过脱屑移除角质层中受损的表皮细胞,而达到去除头屑效果的。早期的去屑剂,如水杨酸、硫磺和含有煤焦油的洗发剂都属于这一类。但此类产品的气味较差,刺激性较强,其效果并不优于其他去屑产品,而且长期应用也会破坏表皮结构扰乱表皮的自身平衡,对皮肤有一定的伤害,长期使用可能导致皮肤过敏瘙痒;二是通过细胞生长抑制剂,以往使用的是二硫化硒,主要是通过抑制因头皮油性大引起的头皮屑多的人可使用,但是很多临床实验表明这类药物不能很好地控制头屑的临床症状,而且其主要成分二硫化硒刺激性强,使用后发质感觉粗涩,若冲洗不彻底,头发可能会脱色,少部分使用者会增加脱发,而且也存在异味等问题。The effect of the scalp sebum regulation of the present invention is to establish a balance between the oil and the dryness of the scalp. Over-tempering and removing scalp lipids while preventing excessive keratinization or shedding of the scalp, the previous regulation of scalp oil is through exfoliation of the stratum corneum and exfoliation of the stratum corneum by removing the damaged epidermal cells in the stratum corneum by desquamation. And to achieve the effect of removing dandruff. Early anti-dandruff agents, such as salicylic acid, sulfur, and shampoos containing coal tar, fall into this category. However, the odor of such products is poor and irritating, and its effect is not superior to other dandruff products, and long-term application will also destroy the epidermal structure to disturb the balance of the epidermis, which has certain damage to the skin. Long-term use may result in Skin allergies and itching; Second, through cell growth inhibitors, the previous use of selenium disulfide, mainly by inhibiting scalp caused by oily scalp, can be used, but many clinical experiments show that these drugs are not very good Controls the clinical symptoms of dandruff, and its main component, selenium disulfide, is highly irritating. After use, the hair feels rough. If the washing is not thorough, the hair may be discolored, a small number of users will increase hair loss, and there are also problems such as odor. .
本发明经过大量的实验,通过头皮皮脂调节剂和头皮屏障保护剂两者的协同作用即起到减少并抑制头皮屑的作用,本发明头皮皮脂调节剂是采用水杨酸的衍生物以及维生素B类物质,水杨酸衍生物为三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯,能温和平衡头皮皮脂,维生素B类物质则采用维他命B12,维生素B12能很好的营养头皮并抑制头皮的过度脱落。水杨酸衍生物和维生素B的配合使用对于调节头皮的皮脂起到关键作用。The invention has undergone a large number of experiments, and the synergistic action of the scalp sebum regulator and the scalp barrier protectant acts to reduce and inhibit dandruff. The scalp sebum regulator of the present invention uses a derivative of salicylic acid and vitamin B. The substance, salicylic acid derivative is trimethylglycine salicylate, which can gently balance scalp sebum, vitamin B is made of vitamin B 12 , vitamin B 12 can well nourish the scalp and inhibit excessive scalp. The combination of a salicylic acid derivative and vitamin B plays a key role in regulating the sebum of the scalp.
本发明经过大量的实验发现,头皮屏障保护效果可以通过皮肤内源性脂质成分和极端嗜盐菌属溶质得以实现。皮肤中内源性脂质成份包括N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和N-乙酰乙醇胺,极端嗜盐菌属溶质为四氢嘧啶以及四氢嘧啶的衍生物羟基四氢嘧啶,能恢复并增强头皮屏障功能。The invention has found through a large number of experiments that the scalp barrier protection effect can be achieved by the endogenous lipid component of the skin and the extreme halophilic solute. The endogenous lipid components in the skin include N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-acetylethanolamine, and the extreme halophilic solute is tetrahydropyrimidine and a derivative of tetrahydropyrimidine, hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine, which restores and enhances the scalp barrier function.
本发明基于拉芳家化有限公司,中科院微生物研究所和德国巴斯夫公司三方的共同努力,从头皮健康,头皮微环境与头皮屑的关联性入手研究头皮屑的问题,本发明更具体到从研究头皮角质层机能障碍与头屑的关系入手,为对抗 头皮屑寻找新的解决方案。与以往去头屑的技术手段不同的是,本发明从头皮屑的根源即头皮入手,通过恢复并增强头皮角质层屏障的功能,使得头皮能有效抵御细菌和真菌的入侵,从而进一步预防并减少头屑的产生。The invention is based on the joint efforts of Lafang Jiahua Co., Ltd., the Institute of Microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences and BASF of Germany, to study the problem of dandruff from the relationship between scalp health, scalp microenvironment and dandruff, and the present invention is more specific to the study. The relationship between scalp stratum corneum dysfunction and dandruff Dander to find new solutions. Different from the technical means of removing dandruff in the past, the present invention starts from the root of dandruff, that is, the scalp, and restores and strengthens the function of the scalp stratum corneum barrier, so that the scalp can effectively resist the invasion of bacteria and fungi, thereby further preventing and reducing. The production of dandruff.
本发明一种去屑组合物,通过调节头皮皮脂平衡并增强头皮屏障功能来实现抑制和减少头皮屑的作用。The anti-dandruff composition of the present invention achieves the effect of inhibiting and reducing dandruff by regulating the balance of scalp sebum and enhancing the function of the scalp barrier.
其中去屑组合物中,除了化妆品中可接受的载体外,包含活性成份如下:The anti-dandruff composition contains, in addition to a cosmetically acceptable carrier, the active ingredients as follows:
(1)头皮屏障保护剂是由皮肤内源性脂质成分和极端嗜盐菌属溶质组成:(1) The scalp barrier protectant consists of the endogenous lipid component of the skin and the halophilic solute of the extreme:
皮肤内源性脂质成分为占组合物重量百分比0.001%-1.0%的N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和占组合物重量百分比为0.01%-20%的N-乙酰乙醇胺,且两者的重量比为1:100;极端嗜盐菌属溶质为四氢嘧啶和羟基四氢嘧啶其中的一种,The endogenous lipid component of the skin is 0.001%-1.0% by weight of the composition of N-palmitoylethanolamine and 0.01%-20% by weight of the composition of N-acetylethanolamine, and the weight ratio of the two is 1 :100; the extreme halophilic solute is one of tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine,
(2)头皮皮脂调节剂为占组合物重量百分比为0.1%-15%的三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯和占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-3%的维生素B12(2) to the scalp sebum modulators of the composition by weight 0.1% to 15% of trimethylglycine and salicylate of the composition by weight of 0.05% to 3% of vitamin B 12.
头皮屏障保护剂Scalp barrier protectant
皮肤内源性脂质成分:Endogenous lipid components of the skin:
本发明去屑组合物中头皮屏障性保护剂是由皮肤内源性脂质成分和极端嗜盐菌属溶质组成:其中,皮肤内源性脂质包括N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和N-乙酰乙醇胺。The scalp barrier protective agent in the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention is composed of an endogenous lipid component of the skin and an extremely halophilic solute: wherein the skin endogenous lipids include N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-acetylethanolamine.
本发明中N-棕榈酰乙醇胺,其分子式C18H37NO2,分子量299.49g mol-1熔点59to60℃(138to140°F;332to333K)。In the present invention, N-palmitoylethanolamine has a molecular formula of C 18 H 37 NO 2 , a molecular weight of 299.49 g mol -1 and a melting point of 59 to 60 ° C (138 to 140 ° F; 332 to 333 K).
化学结构式:
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000001
Chemical Structure:
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000001
本发明中N-乙酰乙醇胺,其分子式为:CH3-CO-NH-C2H4OH,该物质室温下为粘稠的液体,密度(DIN/20摄氏度)1.12,分子量103,沸点155摄氏度(5mmHg), 密度1.052g/cm3In the present invention, N-acetylethanolamine has the formula: CH 3 -CO-NH-C 2 H 4 OH, the substance is a viscous liquid at room temperature, density (DIN/20 degrees Celsius) 1.12, molecular weight 103, boiling point 155 degrees Celsius (5mmHg), density 1.052g/cm 3 .
化学结构式:
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000002
Chemical Structure:
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000002
根据文献报道Chao Yuan,Xue-Min Wang,Cl inical Interventions in Aging2014:91163-1169.《N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和N-乙酰乙醇胺在缺脂性皮肤炎中的应用》上海皮肤病医院皮肤与化妆品部,是一种皮肤内源性的脂肪酸酰胺,最初用于皮肤的抗敏使用。According to the literature report Chao Yuan, Xue-Min Wang, Cl inical Interventions in Aging 2014: 91163-1169. "Application of N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-acetylethanolamine in the treatment of defolitic dermatitis" Shanghai Skin and Cosmetics Department, Department of Skin and Cosmetics, It is a skin-derived fatty acid amide originally used for anti-allergic use of the skin.
本发明中,作为头皮屏障保护剂,其皮肤内源性脂质成分进一步优化为占组合物重量百分比0.005%-0.5%的N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-10%的N-乙酰乙醇胺。In the present invention, as a scalp barrier protectant, the skin endogenous lipid component is further optimized to be 0.005%-0.5% by weight of the composition of N-palmitoylethanolamine and 0.05%-10% by weight of the composition. N-acetylethanolamine.
本发明中N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和N-棕榈酰乙醇胺的重量比进一步优化为1:50。头皮屏障保护剂The weight ratio of N-palmitoylethanolamine and N-palmitoylethanolamine in the present invention is further optimized to be 1:50. Scalp barrier protectant
极端嗜盐菌属溶质:Extreme halophilic solute:
人体皮肤中保湿因子,包含乳酸,乳酸钠,透明质酸,尿素,氨基酸,卵磷脂等,是人体皮肤中不可或缺的具有生理功能的保湿因子。本发明则涉及到了一种极端环境下耐高盐高寒微生物(极端嗜盐菌)中提取的保湿剂。The moisturizing factor in human skin, including lactic acid, sodium lactate, hyaluronic acid, urea, amino acid, lecithin, etc., is an indispensable physiological function moisturizing factor in human skin. The invention relates to a moisturizing agent extracted from a high salt-tolerant and high-cold microorganism (extreme halophilic bacteria) in an extreme environment.
地球上,人类居住的生物圈之外的环境被称为极端环境,也就是指理化条件达到或超出生命耐受范围的环境,能够在极端环境下生长的微生物称为极端微生物如嗜盐微生物,嗜热微生物,嗜冷微生物已经嗜酸微生物等,值得注意的是,这些极端微生物不仅“耐受”这些极端环境,而且为了更好的生长和繁殖,需要一种或多种极端条件,其中中度嗜盐微生物是其中的一种。On Earth, the environment outside the biosphere where humans live is called the extreme environment, which means that the physical and chemical conditions reach or exceed the life tolerance range. Microorganisms that can grow in extreme environments are called extreme microorganisms such as halophilic microorganisms. Hot microorganisms, psychrophilic microorganisms have been acidophilic microorganisms, etc. It is worth noting that these extreme microorganisms not only "tolerate" these extreme environments, but also require one or more extreme conditions for better growth and reproduction, among which moderate Halophilic microorganisms are one of them.
本发明应用到了一种在极端环境中即高盐和高寒环境中生长的微生物如 在喜盐海球菌和色盐杆菌属中提取的溶质-四氢嘧啶及其衍生物羟基四氢嘧啶(中国农业大学博士学位论文,2005.11.16赵百锁)四氢嘧啶和羟基四氢嘧啶作为稳定剂具有保护微生物中的酶,DNA和大分子,对于极端环境下的微生物起到抗高盐,抗干燥,抗冷冻和防止热变性等作用,是极端微生物得以在极端环境下生存的分子伴侣和保护神。四氢嘧啶和羟基四氢嘧啶在化妆品中的应用也越来越受到人们的重视,德国默克公司和中科院微生物研究所研制。The present invention is applied to a microorganism that grows in an extreme environment, that is, a high salt and alpine environment. Solute-tetrahydropyrimidine and its derivative hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine (Ph.D., 2005.11.16 Zhao Baisuo) tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine as stabilizers extracted from the genus Salicorella and C. It protects microorganisms from enzymes, DNA and macromolecules. It acts against microbes in extreme environments, resists high salt, resists drying, freezes and prevents heat denaturation. It is a molecular chaperone and protection for extreme microorganisms to survive in extreme environments. God. The application of tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine in cosmetics has also received more and more attention. It was developed by Merck and the Institute of Microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences.
本发明极端嗜盐菌(halomonas elongate)中的溶质成分为四氢嘧啶或四氢嘧啶的衍生物羟基四氢嘧啶。四氢嘧啶化学名称为,2甲基-1,4,5,6-四氢嘧啶4甲酸,分子式:C6H10N2O2,分子量:142.2g/mol,LD50(经口-大鼠)2200mg/kg,白色粉末,SIGMA-ALDRICH,或中科院微生物研究所研制。The solute component in the halomonas elongate of the present invention is a tetrahydropyrimidine or a derivative of tetrahydropyrimidine hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine. Tetrahydropyrimidine chemical name, 2 methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine 4carboxylic acid, molecular formula: C 6 H 10 N 2 O 2 , molecular weight: 142.2 g / mol, LD50 (oral-rat 2200mg/kg, white powder, SIGMA-ALDRICH, or developed by the Institute of Microbiology, Chinese Academy of Sciences.
羟基四氢嘧啶,化学名为,(4S,5S)-羟基-2-甲基-1.4.5.-四氢嘧啶-4羧酸,分子量:158.2g/mol,分子式:C6H10N2O3,白色粉末。SIGMA-ALDRICH,或中科院微生物研究所研制。Hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine, chemical name, (4S, 5S)-hydroxy-2-methyl-1.4.5.-tetrahydropyrimidine-4carboxylic acid, molecular weight: 158.2 g/mol, molecular formula: C 6 H 10 N 2 O 3 , white powder. SIGMA-ALDRICH, or the Institute of Microbiology, Chinese Academy of Sciences.
本发明头皮屏障保护剂中,其中极端嗜盐菌属溶质优选羟基四氢嘧啶,根据本发明羟基四氢嘧啶占组合物重量百分比为0.01%-2%,进一步优化为0.05%-1%。In the scalp barrier protectant of the present invention, the halophilic solute is preferably hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine, and the hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine according to the present invention is 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition, further optimized to be 0.05% to 1%.
头皮皮脂调节剂Scalp sebum regulator
水杨酸衍生物:水杨酸作为头皮皮脂抑制剂和头皮脱落剂对头皮有一定的刺激性,对头皮屏障往往起到破坏作用,因此,本发明采用水杨酸的衍生物即,三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯。Salicylic acid derivatives: salicylic acid as a scalp sebum inhibitor and a scalp exfoliating agent have a certain irritating effect on the scalp, and often have a destructive effect on the scalp barrier. Therefore, the present invention uses a derivative of salicylic acid, namely, a top three Glycine hydrochloride.
三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯与水杨酸中的β羟基酸(BHAs)与α-羟基酸(AHAs)相似,具有加速鳞片状角质细胞剥落的功能,而且刺激性比α-羟基酸(AHAs)低很多;甜菜碱中的三甲基甘氨酸具有保湿,增加肌肤弹性及水合作用,其分 子结构既有阳离子电荷又有阴离子电荷,而人类皮肤包括头皮和头发在一般生理条件下全部带负电荷,因此其含有的正电荷分子对头皮和头发具有天然亲和力。因此,本发明使用的三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯完美的结合了从柳树皮萃取的水杨酸与从甜菜碱中提取的三甲基甘氨酸的优点,形成独特结构的水杨酸,能够温和调整头皮角质层的厚度,使其处于一种相对理想的状态,从而有助于头皮屏障功能的形成和改善,对头皮和头发中脂质具有温和的调节效果。Trimethylglycine salicylate and β-hydroxy acid (BHAs) in salicylic acid are similar to α-hydroxy acids (AHAs), have the function of accelerating the exfoliation of squamous keratinocytes, and are more irritating than α-hydroxy acids (AHAs). ) much lower; trimethylglycine in betaine has moisturizing, increasing skin elasticity and hydration, Substructures have both cationic and anionic charges, while human skin, including the scalp and hair, are all negatively charged under normal physiological conditions, so they contain positively charged molecules that have a natural affinity for the scalp and hair. Therefore, the trimethylglycine salicylic acid ester used in the present invention perfectly combines the advantages of salicylic acid extracted from willow bark and trimethylglycine extracted from betaine, and forms a unique structure of salicylic acid, which is mild. Adjusting the thickness of the scalp stratum corneum to a relatively ideal state, which contributes to the formation and improvement of the scalp barrier function, and has a gentle regulation effect on the scalp and hair lipids.
本发明中头皮皮脂调节剂为占组合物重量百分比为0.1%-15%的三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯,并进一步优化为重量百分比0.2%-8%。The scalp sebum regulator of the present invention is trimethylglycine salicylate in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight of the composition, and is further optimized to be 0.2% to 8% by weight.
头皮皮脂调节剂Scalp sebum regulator
维生素类:维生素包括维生素A,维生素C,维生素D,以及维生素B等所有这些都是人体生理功能的参与者并在人体皮肤及代谢方面扮演者不同程度的作用,其中B族维生素包含的种类居多,在头发和头皮及其生理功能方面的作用也比较突出。其中B族维生素的包括B1、B2、B3、B5、B6、B12等,根据以往的应用及文献的报道,维他命原B5具有头皮和头发滋养的作用是已经公认的事实,Tanno O,Ota Y,Kitamura N,et al.Br J Dermatol.2000;143:524-531.以及J Cosmet Laser Ther.2006Jun;8(2):96-101.则分别报道了维他命B3具有增强肌肤屏障和控制肌肤油脂分泌的功能,美国专利US6110472公开了一种含有维他命B12的化妆品组合物用于头皮异常脱落的处理。Vitamins: Vitamins including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, and vitamin B are all participants in the physiological functions of the human body and play different roles in human skin and metabolism. Among them, B vitamins contain many types. The role in hair and scalp and its physiological functions is also prominent. Among them, B vitamins include B 1 , B 2 , B 3 , B 5 , B 6 , B 12 , etc. According to previous applications and literature reports, the role of provitamin B 5 in scalp and hair nourishment is a recognized fact. , Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, et al. Br J Dermatol. 2000; 143: 524-531. and J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun; 8(2): 96-101. Reported that vitamin B 3 has A function of enhancing the skin barrier and controlling the secretion of oil from the skin, U.S. Patent No. 6,110,472 discloses a cosmetic composition containing vitamin B 12 for the treatment of abnormal scalp detachment.
本发明头皮皮脂调节剂选择范围为维生素B1,维生素B2,维生素B3,维生素B6,维生素原B5,维生素B12本发明维生素B类进一步筛选维生素B3,维生素B6和维生素B12,并进一步优选维生素B12The scalp sebum regulating agent of the present invention has a range of vitamin B 1 , vitamin B 2 , vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 6 , provitamin B 5 , and vitamin B 12 . The vitamin B of the present invention is further screened for vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 6 and vitamin B. 12 and further preferred vitamin B 12 .
本发明维生素B12占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-3%,并进一步优化为0.1%-2%。 The vitamin B 12 of the present invention comprises from 0.05% to 3% by weight of the composition, and is further optimized to be from 0.1% to 2%.
头皮舒缓剂:头皮舒缓剂包括尿囊素,甘草黄酮,甘草酸二钾等,其中,甘草酸二钾:白色细粉、具甜味、有药物等功效,可活化皮质甾类化合物(抑制代谢酶)。间接增强皮质甾类化合物的作用,可由于膏、霜、水、乳液、奶类和蜜类等所有化妆品,它可以中和或减低化妆品的有毒物质,也可以防止有的化妆品的过敏反应,市场上的规格为UV≥98%,HPLC≥76%(指甘草酸的有效成分)。甘草酸二钾化学分子式C42H60K2O16,分子量899.1128,pH值5‐6。Scalp soothing agent: scalp soothing agent includes allantoin, licorice flavonoids, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, etc. Among them, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: white fine powder, sweet taste, and medicine, can activate corticosteroids (inhibition of metabolism) Enzyme). Indirect enhancement of the role of corticosteroids, due to all cosmetics such as cream, cream, water, lotion, milk and honey, it can neutralize or reduce the toxic substances of cosmetics, and also prevent allergic reactions of some cosmetics, the market The above specifications are UV ≥ 98%, and HPLC ≥ 76% (refers to the active ingredient of glycyrrhizic acid). Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate has a chemical formula of C 42 H 60 K 2 O 16 , a molecular weight of 899.1128, and a pH of 5-6.
甘草黄酮是从特定品种甘草中提取的天然成分,甘草黄酮类化合物甘草甙、甘草甙元及天冬酞胺、甘露醇等,而从甘草中提取的化合物--甘草黄酮在美容化妆品中有多种功效,同时,甘草黄酮还有抑制酪氨酸酶活性、清除氧目由基,其具有抗炎、抗变态反应的作用。甘草黄酮性状:棕红色稠状液体,不溶于水及各种油酯,溶于乙醇、丙二醇、甘油及部分有机溶剂。Licorice flavonoids are natural ingredients extracted from specific varieties of licorice, licorice flavonoids such as licorice, licorice and aspartame, mannitol, etc., and the compound extracted from licorice - licorice flavonoids in beauty cosmetics The efficacy, at the same time, licorice flavonoids also inhibit tyrosinase activity, scavenging oxygen base, which has anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic effects. Flavonoids flavonoids: brown-red thick liquid, insoluble in water and various oil esters, soluble in ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin and some organic solvents.
固含量≥20%,光甘草定含量≥0.38%,重金属:≤0.002%,黄酮试验:阳性。Solid content ≥ 20%, light licorice content ≥ 0.38%, heavy metal: ≤ 0.002%, flavonoid test: positive.
尿囊素中文别名:5-尿基乙内酰胺、脲基醋酸内酰胺、脲咪唑二酮,分子式:C4H6O3N4,分子量:158.12,外观:白色结晶粉末,无嗅无味,含量(%)≥98.0,江苏昆山双友日化生产。尿囊素具有促进细胞生长,加快伤口愈合,软化角质蛋白等生理功能,是皮肤创伤的良好愈合剂和抗溃疡药剂。可用作缓解和治疗皮肤干燥症、鳞屑性皮肤疾患、皮肤溃疡、均有较好疗效。由于尿囊素是一种两性化合物,能结合多种物质形成复,使皮肤保持水份,滋润和柔软,是美容美发等化妆品的特效添加剂,广泛用于雀斑霜、粉刺液、香波、香皂、牙膏、刮脸洗剂、护发剂、收敛剂、抗汗除臭洗剂等的添加剂。添加尿囊素的化妆品具有保护组织、亲水、吸水和防止水分散发等作用;Allantoin Chinese alias: 5-urela-lactamamide, ureidoacetic acid lactam, urea imidazoledione, molecular formula: C 4 H 6 O 3 N 4 , molecular weight: 158.12, appearance: white crystalline powder, odorless and tasteless, Content (%) ≥ 98.0, Jiangsu Kunshan Shuangyou Daily Chemical Production. Allantoin has a physiological function of promoting cell growth, accelerating wound healing, softening keratin protein, and is a good healing agent and anti-ulcer agent for skin wounds. It can be used for alleviating and treating skin dryness, scaly skin diseases and skin ulcers. Because allantoin is an amphoteric compound, it can form a complex combination of various substances to keep the skin moist, moisturized and soft. It is a special additive for cosmetics such as beauty salons. It is widely used in freckle cream, acne, shampoo, soap, Additives such as toothpaste, shave lotion, hair conditioner, astringent, anti-sweat deodorant lotion, etc. Cosmetics containing allantoin have the functions of protecting tissues, hydrophilicity, water absorption and preventing water dispersion;
本发明中头皮舒缓剂优选尿囊素。 The scalp soothing agent in the present invention is preferably allantoin.
本发明中尿囊素主要用于它对头皮的舒缓作用,对头皮角质层具有软化的作用。帮助头皮建立水脂膜增强皮肤表面的水合作用以及经皮水分流失的减少,从而起到协同增强肌肤屏障功能的作用。In the present invention, allantoin is mainly used for its soothing action on the scalp, and has a softening effect on the stratum corneum of the scalp. Helps the scalp to build a water-lipid film to enhance the hydration of the skin surface and reduce the loss of transepidermal water, thereby synergistically enhancing the barrier function of the skin.
本发明中尿囊素占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-0.5%,并进一步优化为0.08%-0.2%。In the present invention, allantoin comprises from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight of the composition, and is further optimized to be from 0.08% to 0.2%.
化妆品可接受的载体Cosmetic acceptable carrier
多元醇:本发明中多元醇可以为1,3丁二醇,丙二醇,丙三醇(甘油),1,2-戊二醇,乙醇等,本发明优选丙三醇,使用量为占组合物重量百分比1%至10%,并进一步优化为占组合物重量百分比2%至8%。Polyol: In the present invention, the polyol may be 1,3 butanediol, propylene glycol, glycerin (glycerol), 1,2-pentanediol, ethanol, etc., and glycerin is preferred in the present invention, and the amount used is composition. The weight percentage is from 1% to 10% and is further optimized to be from 2% to 8% by weight of the composition.
增稠剂:本发明中可以使用的增稠剂包括丙烯酸聚合物,卡波树脂,羟乙基纤维素,汉生胶等,本发明优先使用汉生胶,使用量为占组合物重量百分比0.02%至0.5%,并进一步优化为占组合物重量百分比0.05%至0.3%。Thickener: Thickeners which can be used in the present invention include acrylic acid polymers, carbopol resins, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, etc., and the use of xanthan gum in the present invention is preferably used in an amount of 0.02 by weight of the composition. % to 0.5% and further optimized to 0.05% to 0.3% by weight of the composition.
螯合剂:本发明中可以使用的螯合剂包括乙二胺四乙酸二钠和乙二胺四乙酸四钠,本发明优先使用乙二胺四乙酸二钠,使用量为占组合物重量百分比0.01%至0.1%,并进一步优化为占组合物重量百分比0.02%至0.1%。Chelating agent: The chelating agent which can be used in the present invention includes disodium edetate and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate. In the present invention, disodium edetate is preferably used in an amount of 0.01% by weight of the composition. To 0.1%, and further optimized to be from 0.02% to 0.1% by weight of the composition.
防腐剂:本发明中可以使用的防腐剂包括尼泊金酯类,重氮烷基脲类,苯氧乙醇等,本发明优先使用苯氧乙醇,使用量为占组合物重量百分比0.1%至1.0%,并进一步优化为占组合物重量百分比0.5%至0.8%。Preservatives: preservatives which can be used in the present invention include parabens, diazoalkyl ureas, phenoxyethanol, etc., and phenoxyethanol is preferably used in the present invention, and the amount used is 0.1% to 1.0% by weight of the composition. %, and further optimized to account for 0.5% to 0.8% by weight of the composition.
pH调节剂pH regulator
本发明中pH调节剂配方技术中和方面常用的三乙醇胺和柠檬酸。The triethanolamine and citric acid commonly used in the neutralization of the pH adjuster formulation technique of the present invention.
制备方法Preparation
本发明一种调节头皮皮脂平衡的去屑组合物可以通过任何已知或其它有效的适用于提供护发组合物的技术制备,制备本发明的方法包括常规的配制和混 合技术。将本发明成分中乙二胺四乙酸二钠,尿囊素,汉生胶,甘油等按重量百分比加入到去离子水中,加热到80度并搅拌溶解直到透明,然后边冷却边搅拌,当温度降低到45度时,分别按重量百分比加入维生素B12,N-棕榈酰乙醇胺,N-乙酰乙醇胺,羟基四氢嘧啶和三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯,搅拌并溶解,最后加入防腐剂、香精、色素、pH调节剂,并将去屑组合物的pH调节剂调节到7。An anti-dandruff composition of the present invention which modulates sebum balance of the scalp can be prepared by any known or otherwise effective technique suitable for providing a hair care composition, and the process of the present invention comprises conventional formulation and mixing techniques. Adding disodium edetate, allantoin, xanthan gum, glycerin, etc. to the components of the present invention in deionized water by weight, heating to 80 degrees and stirring to dissolve until transparent, and then stirring while cooling, when the temperature When reduced to 45 degrees, add vitamin B 12 , N-palmitoylethanolamine, N-acetylethanolamine, hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine and trimethylglycine salicylate, respectively, by stirring, dissolve, and finally add preservatives and flavors. , a pigment, a pH adjuster, and the pH adjuster of the anti-dandruff composition is adjusted to 7.
使用方法Instructions
本发明一种调节头皮皮脂平衡的去屑组合物以常规的清洁和调理头皮的方式使用,主要包括以下几个步骤:The anti-dandruff composition of the present invention for regulating the sebum balance of the scalp is used in the conventional manner of cleaning and conditioning the scalp, and mainly comprises the following steps:
(A)用适量香波清洗头发,并冲洗干净;(A) Wash the hair with a proper amount of shampoo and rinse off;
(B)取本品适量,用指肚在头皮上轻轻按摩约1-2分钟,用热毛巾包裹5-15分钟;(B) Take the appropriate amount of this product, gently massage with the fingertip on the scalp for about 1-2 minutes, and wrap it with a hot towel for 5-15 minutes;
(C)最后可以用水冲洗掉,也可以不用冲洗;(C) Finally, it can be washed off with water or not.
这些步骤可以根据需要重复多次,以达到所寻求的护理功效。These steps can be repeated as many times as needed to achieve the desired therapeutic effect.
实施例Example
下面是本发明的去屑组合物的非限定性实例。这些实施例的给出仅仅是为了说明的目的,并不能理解为对本发明的限定,因为在不脱离本发明的精神和范围的基础上,可以对本发明进行许多改变。在这些实施例中,除非特别说明,所有的浓度都是重量百分比。The following are non-limiting examples of anti-dandruff compositions of the present invention. The examples are given for the purpose of illustration only, and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. In these examples, all concentrations are by weight unless otherwise stated.
实施例Ⅰ-ⅤExample I-V
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000004
实施例Ⅵ-ⅩExample VI-X
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000005
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000005
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000006
功效评价Efficacy evaluation
本发明的功效评价是基于本发明去屑组合物所采用的技术手段进行的。The efficacy evaluation of the present invention is carried out based on the technical means employed in the anti-dandruff composition of the present invention.
本发明去屑组合物,采用非传统抑制和杀灭马拉色菌的技术方案,而是通过头皮皮脂调节与头皮屏障保护两者的协同作用得以实现,两者的协同配合能助于头皮恢复正常厚度的水脂膜,建立头皮脂质动态平衡,恢复头皮屏障功能从而起到减少头皮屑的作用。因此,在功效测试方面通过仪器TEWL法测试实施例对头皮屏障功能的保护作用以及感官评价法测试实施例止痒去屑效果的评分评价。The anti-dandruff composition of the invention adopts the technical scheme of non-traditional inhibition and killing of Malassezia, but is realized by the synergistic action of scalp sebum regulation and scalp barrier protection, and the synergistic cooperation between the two can help scalp recovery The normal thickness of the water lipid film establishes the dynamic balance of the scalp lipid and restores the scalp barrier function to reduce the dandruff. Therefore, in the efficacy test, the protective effect of the scalp barrier function was examined by the instrument TEWL method and the evaluation of the itching and anti-dandruff effect of the sensory evaluation test example.
其中仪器测试法,就是测试头皮经皮水分流失TEWL的数值,TEWL值越大,头皮的水分流失的快,说明头皮的屏障作用越差,反之,测试的TEWL值越小,说明头皮保持水分的能力强,则说明头皮屏障功能得到加强,本发明所使用的测量仪,型号:Delfin/VapoMeter,测量范围:3-200g/m2h。测试部位:头顶部位。The instrument test method is to test the value of TEWL of transepidermal water loss in the scalp. The larger the TEWL value, the faster the loss of water in the scalp, indicating that the barrier effect of the scalp is worse. Conversely, the smaller the TEWL value of the test indicates that the scalp remains moisture. The ability to be strong indicates that the scalp barrier function is enhanced. The measuring instrument used in the present invention, model: Delfin/VapoMeter, measuring range: 3-200 g/m 2 h. Test site: top position.
其中感官评价法主要测试实施例对去头屑的感官效果,复头所述感官评价方法是:将制备的实施例分发给测试人员,在使用本发明实施例样品过程中,其生活习惯,以往使用的洗发露品牌均不发生改变。没个实施例的样品各使用四周,测试者根据自己的感觉进行评分,其中止痒效果是根据头痒开始的时间 和头痒的程度来评分,去屑效果是根据头屑的多少和大小来评分。测试人员使用去屑组合物样品,是在洗头过后使用,连续使用四周,每周使用三次;试者根据自己的感觉进行评分,其中止痒效果和去屑效果是根据使用实施例后第五周的第一天开始计算起始,根据头痒和起始头屑的发生来评分,如果第五周的第一天就开始头痒评1分,第二天评2分,并以此类推,若第七天开始头痒就评7分。评分标准采用7分制,1分最差,7分最好,分数越高效果越好越好。各种去屑组合物使用效果评价结果列于表1。The sensory evaluation method mainly tests the sensory effect of the embodiment on the anti-dandruff, and the sensory evaluation method of the complex head is: distributing the prepared embodiment to the tester, and the living habits in the process of using the sample of the embodiment of the invention The shampoo brands used did not change. None of the samples of the examples were used for four weeks, and the testers scored according to their own feelings, wherein the antipruritic effect was based on the start of the itching. It is scored by the degree of itching, and the anti-dandruff effect is scored according to the amount and size of the dandruff. The tester used the anti-dandruff composition sample, which was used after shampooing, and was used continuously for four weeks and three times a week. The tester scored according to his own feeling, and the antipruritic effect and anti-dandruff effect were based on the fifth embodiment. The first day of the week begins to calculate the start, according to the occurrence of itching and the onset of dandruff, if the first day of the fifth week begins to score 1 point, the next day 2 points, and so on If the itch starts on the seventh day, score 7 points. The scoring standard uses a 7-point scale, with 1 being the worst and 7 being the best. The higher the score, the better the better. The results of the evaluation of the use effects of various anti-dandruff compositions are shown in Table 1.
选有头屑比较严重的(男,女不限),22例,年龄介于20-40岁,分成两组,每组有效人数10人,在使用本发明实施例样品过程中,其生活习惯,以往使用的洗发露品牌均不发生改变。Choosing more serious dandruff (male and female), 22 cases, aged between 20-40 years old, divided into two groups, each group of 10 effective people, in the process of using the samples of the examples of the present invention, their living habits The shampoo brands used in the past have not changed.
第一组,10人中,其中5人使用空白1,其余5人使用空白2,使用方法以本发明拟定的使用方法为准,并分别第7天,第14天,第21天,第28天时测定头皮的TEWL值(取平均值)并按照以上要求观察头皮屑的程度进行评分;In the first group, among the 10 persons, 5 of them used blank 1, and the remaining 5 used blank 2. The method of use was based on the method of use of the present invention, and the 7th day, the 14th day, the 21st day, the 28th, respectively. The TEWL value of the scalp was measured (averaged) in days and scored according to the above requirements to observe the degree of dandruff;
第二组,10人中,分别使用本发明实施例Ⅰ至Ⅹ,使用方法以本发明拟定的使用方法为准,并分别第7天,第14天,第21天,第28天时测定头皮的TEWL值,并观察头皮屑的程度进行评分;In the second group, among the 10 persons, the present inventions I to X were respectively used, and the method of use was determined according to the method of use of the present invention, and the scalp was measured on the 7th day, the 14th day, the 21st day, and the 28th day, respectively. TEWL values and scores for observing dandruff;
表1TEWL数值及去屑效果评价Table 1 TEWL values and evaluation of anti-dandruff effect
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000007
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000007
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000008
Figure PCTCN2014093562-appb-000008
从以上结果表明:按要求使用本发明对照空白1,测量使用后第7天头皮的经皮水分流失数值与使用后第28天头皮经皮水分流失数值,结果第28天头皮经皮水分流失数值减少0.8%,说明使用空白1后,头皮的经皮水分流失的数值改变不大;本发明对照空白2,测量使用后第7天测得头皮的经皮水分流失数值与使用后第28天头皮经皮水分流失数值,结果第28天头皮经皮水分流失数值减少1.4%,说明使用空白2后,头皮的经皮水分流失的数值改变不大,等同于没有改变。From the above results, it was shown that the control blank 1 of the present invention was used as required, and the percutaneous water loss value of the scalp on the 7th day after use and the transepidermal water loss value on the 28th day after use were measured, and the scalp transepidermal water loss value on the 28th day was measured. The decrease of 0.8% indicates that the value of transepidermal water loss of the scalp is not changed after the use of blank 1; the control blank 2 of the present invention measures the transepidermal water loss value of the scalp on the 7th day after use and the scalp on the 28th day after use. Percutaneous water loss values showed that the transepidermal water loss value of the scalp decreased by 1.4% on the 28th day, indicating that the value of transepidermal water loss of the scalp did not change much after using the blank 2, which was equivalent to no change.
而对照本发明实施例Ⅰ至Ⅹ,测得的头皮的经皮水分流失数值第28天较第7天均有不同程度的减少(如减少值最少的实施例Ⅵ,TEWL减少了15.7%,如减少值最大的实施例Ⅶ,TEWL减少了34.6%),说明使用本发明实施例后头皮屏障功能得到了增强;同时感官评价方法获得的止痒效果和去屑效果数值与空白1和空白2获得的感官效果对比均有大幅提升,说明本发明在不含有抑菌和杀菌剂的情况下,通过调节头皮皮脂平衡以及头皮屏障功能的增强起到抑制和减少头皮屑的作用。 Compared with the examples I to X of the present invention, the measured transepidermal water loss value of the scalp was reduced to a different extent on the 28th day than the seventh day (for example, in the example VI with the least reduction value, the TEWL was reduced by 15.7%, such as Example VII with the largest reduction value, TEWL decreased by 34.6%), indicating that the scalp barrier function was enhanced after using the embodiment of the present invention; and the antipruritic effect and the anti-dandruff effect obtained by the sensory evaluation method were obtained with blank 1 and blank 2 The sensory effect contrast has been greatly improved, indicating that the present invention inhibits and reduces dandruff by regulating the balance of scalp sebum and the enhancement of scalp barrier function without containing bacteriostatic and bactericidal agents.

Claims (8)

  1. 一种去屑组合物,除了化妆品中可接受的载体外,含有头皮屏障保护剂和头皮皮脂调节剂,其组分及含量如下:An anti-dandruff composition comprising, in addition to a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a scalp barrier protectant and a scalp sebum regulating agent, the components and contents of which are as follows:
    (1)皮肤屏障保护剂:(1) Skin barrier protectant:
    占组合物重量0.001%-1.0%的N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和占组合物重量0.01%-20%的N-乙酰乙醇胺组成,且两者的重量比为1:100;Between 0.001% and 1.0% by weight of the composition of N-palmitoylethanolamine and 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition of N-acetylethanolamine, and the weight ratio of the two is 1:100;
    以及含量占组合物重量0.01%-2%的四氢嘧啶或羟基四氢嘧啶;And tetrahydropyrimidine or hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine in an amount of from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition;
    (2)头皮皮脂调节剂:(2) scalp sebum regulator:
    占组合物重量0.1%-15%的三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯和占组合物重量0.05%-3%的维生素B12Of the composition by weight of 0.1% to 15% of trimethylglycine salicylate and 0.05% of the composition to 3% by weight of vitamin B 12.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的去屑组合物,其中N-棕榈酰乙醇胺含量占组合物重量为0.005%-0.5%;N-乙酰乙醇胺占组合物重量为0.05%-10%。The anti-dandruff composition according to claim 1, wherein the N-palmitoylethanolamine content is from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of the composition; and the N-acetylethanolamine is from 0.05% to 10% by weight of the composition.
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的去屑组合物,其中N-棕榈酰乙醇胺和N-棕榈酰乙醇胺的重量比进一步优化为1:50。The anti-dandruff composition according to claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of N-palmitoylethanolamine to N-palmitoylethanolamine is further optimized to 1:50.
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的去屑组合物,其中三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯含量占组合物重量百分比为0.2%-8%;维生素B12含量占组合物重量百分比为0.1%-2%。The antidandruff composition according to claim 1, wherein trimethylglycine salicylate content of the composition by weight of 0.2% to 8%; vitamin B 12 weight percent of the composition is 0.1% -2%.
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的去屑组合物,皮肤屏障保护剂选自羟基四氢嘧啶,其含量占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-1%。 The anti-dandruff composition of claim 1 wherein the skin barrier protectant is selected from the group consisting of hydroxytetrahydropyrimidines in an amount from 0.05% to 1% by weight of the composition.
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的去屑组合物,还含有占组合物重量百分比为0.05%-0.5%的尿囊素和占组合物重量百分比5%的甘油。The anti-dandruff composition of claim 1 further comprising from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight of the composition of allantoin and 5% by weight of the composition.
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的去屑组合物,其中尿囊素含量占组合物重量百分比为0.08%-0.2%。The anti-dandruff composition of claim 6 wherein the allantoin content is from 0.08% to 0.2% by weight of the composition.
  8. 一种去屑组合物,其组分及含量为:An anti-dandruff composition having a composition and content of:
    占组合物重量百分比为0.0125%的N-棕榈酰乙醇胺,% by weight of the composition of 0.015% by weight of N-palmitoylethanolamine,
    占组合物重量百分比为0.625%的N-乙酰乙醇胺,N-acetylethanolamine in an amount of 0.625% by weight of the composition,
    占组合物重量百分比为0.3%的羟基四氢嘧啶,3% by weight of the composition of hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine,
    占组合物重量百分比为3.4%的三甲基甘氨酸水杨酸酯,3% by weight of the composition of trimethylglycine salicylate,
    占组合物重量百分比为1%的维生素B121% by weight of the composition of vitamin B 12 ,
    占组合物重量百分比为0.1%的尿囊素,0.1% by weight of the composition of allantoin,
    占组合物重量百分比5%的甘油,5% by weight of the composition of glycerin,
    占组合物重量百分比0.15%的汉生胶,0.1% by weight of the composition of xanthan gum,
    占组合物重量百分比0.05%的乙二胺四乙酸二钠,0.05% by weight of the composition of disodium edetate,
    适量的防腐剂、香精和色素,余量为去离子水,将pH值调整到7。 Appropriate amount of preservatives, flavors and pigments. The balance is deionized water and the pH is adjusted to 7.
PCT/CN2014/093562 2014-09-05 2014-12-11 Dandruff removing composition for adjusting scalp oil balance WO2016033899A1 (en)

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CN109796367B (en) * 2019-03-29 2022-02-15 广东工业大学 Preparation method and application of N-fatty acyl ethanolamine product
CN110585046A (en) * 2019-10-12 2019-12-20 曹志军 Dandruff removing, dandruff stopping, alopecia preventing and hair increasing component and product
CN112656709A (en) * 2021-01-06 2021-04-16 华熙生物科技股份有限公司 Skin care compositions and uses thereof

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CN1602835A (en) * 2003-08-06 2005-04-06 花王株式会社 Aerosol cosmetic composition
CN102227208A (en) * 2008-11-07 2011-10-26 科学发展实验室 Drug or dermatological composition containing avocado peptide extract for treating and preventing pruritus
CN103417394A (en) * 2013-05-06 2013-12-04 上海玉华生命科技发展有限公司 Lipidosome composition containing Cu and Zn-rhSOD for removing eye wrinkles effectively

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1602835A (en) * 2003-08-06 2005-04-06 花王株式会社 Aerosol cosmetic composition
CN102227208A (en) * 2008-11-07 2011-10-26 科学发展实验室 Drug or dermatological composition containing avocado peptide extract for treating and preventing pruritus
CN103417394A (en) * 2013-05-06 2013-12-04 上海玉华生命科技发展有限公司 Lipidosome composition containing Cu and Zn-rhSOD for removing eye wrinkles effectively

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