WO2014125508A1 - Procédé de production de produits textiles semi-finis pour chapeaux de type feutre, chapeaux et produits semi-finis ainsi obtenus - Google Patents

Procédé de production de produits textiles semi-finis pour chapeaux de type feutre, chapeaux et produits semi-finis ainsi obtenus Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2014125508A1
WO2014125508A1 PCT/IT2013/000044 IT2013000044W WO2014125508A1 WO 2014125508 A1 WO2014125508 A1 WO 2014125508A1 IT 2013000044 W IT2013000044 W IT 2013000044W WO 2014125508 A1 WO2014125508 A1 WO 2014125508A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fibres
heat
textile material
cone
semifinished
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IT2013/000044
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Massimo Papucci
Original Assignee
Massimo Papucci
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Massimo Papucci filed Critical Massimo Papucci
Priority to PCT/IT2013/000044 priority Critical patent/WO2014125508A1/fr
Publication of WO2014125508A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014125508A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/46—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres
    • D04H1/48—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres in combination with at least one other method of consolidation
    • D04H1/482—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres in combination with at least one other method of consolidation in combination with shrinkage
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A42—HEADWEAR
    • A42C—MANUFACTURING OR TRIMMING HEAD COVERINGS, e.g. HATS
    • A42C1/00—Manufacturing hats
    • A42C1/04—Blocking; Pressing; Steaming; Stretching
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/04—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres
    • D04H1/08—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres and hardened by felting; Felts or felted products
    • D04H1/10—Felts made from mixtures of fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/04—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres
    • D04H1/08—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres and hardened by felting; Felts or felted products
    • D04H1/10—Felts made from mixtures of fibres
    • D04H1/12—Felts made from mixtures of fibres and incorporating artificial organic fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/04—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres
    • D04H1/08—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres and hardened by felting; Felts or felted products
    • D04H1/22—Three-dimensional articles formed by felting processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/04—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres
    • D04H1/08—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres and hardened by felting; Felts or felted products
    • D04H1/24—Covers felted on to three-dimensional articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/46—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a semifinished product with felt effect (or a semifinished product bonded with other materials) that is to undergo thermoforming using blocks in order to obtain hats with improved aesthetic results that will be able to maintain the shapes impressed, albeit keeping costs down and affording a wide range of choice of colours and finishes.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to overcome the limits and drawbacks of the prior art described above, such as in particular the dependence upon manual labour, the long times that elapse between orders and arrival of goods, the high warehousing costs, the poor versatility and/or high costs involved in the production of personalized items demanded by fashion, and the risk of having a considerable amount of unsold stock left on one's hands.
  • finishing and printing are overcome since the product thus obtained can be printed prior to cone forming, i.e., to the step that precedes the operation proper of forming the hat, because, since it has a planar shape, the process of finishing and printing can be carried out on any existing machinery both for printing and for surface finishing, with the added possibility of bonding with fabrics, such as lace, already printed knitted fabric, raschel-knitted fabric, boiled wool, etc., provided that they are sufficiently elastic.
  • a method according to the invention comprises a step of feeding a textile material in the form of a continuous web, whether of woven or non-woven fabric, made up of a staple mix of non-thermoplastic natural, artificial, or synthetic felting fibres in ratios of between 65 wt% and 90 wt% and of bi-component polyester fibres and/or other heat-shrinkable fibres, such as acrylic or chlorofibre in ratios of between 10 wt% and 35 wt%.
  • the non-heat-shrinkable fibres comprise wool, cotton, viscose, synthetic fibres; preferably, the natural fibres comprise wool fibres having a fineness of 21-28 ⁇ .
  • the starting textile material is then subjected to matting by carding and needle-punching to obtain a material with felt effect in the form of a web.
  • the process of needle punching is performed with the material laid out flat and can hence be automated at a low cost using known machinery that will consequently not be described any further herein.
  • a step of carding or combing is envisaged prior to needle punching.
  • a web will be obtained that will then be worked on fur machines, such as "VAI A", which produce a knitted fabric directly from the combed tops (sliver) ; this fabric, which closely resembles non-woven fabric, will be treated in the same way as the latter.
  • a yarn which is dyed using known methods, or used raw, comprising heat-shrinkable fibres with various titres.
  • the yarn will then be woven on industrial machines such as circular machines, rectilinear machines, shuttle looms, raschel looms, etc., and possibly cut into plane portions, referred to as "tiles", or worked in the form of a web.
  • industrial machines such as circular machines, rectilinear machines, shuttle looms, raschel looms, etc.
  • tiles or worked in the form of a web.
  • this system it is possible to obtain products suitable for the production of summer articles, in so far as it enables also use of mixed fibres with cotton, viscose, silk, or the like.
  • the continuous web of textile material or the tiles can be introduced into a washing machine, or machinery with the same functions, in order to be dyed, in the case where the starting base is a raw yarn or a yarn dyed with light colours.
  • said material can be surface treated laid out flat, either in a continuous web or in discrete portions or tiles of dimensions such as to enable the final shape to be obtained.
  • said step of surface treatment comprises a flat processing step such as: digital printing, pigment or spray printing, bonding of the felted textile material with a decorative material or other fabrics, waxing, embroidery, sueding, cutting, impregnation, laser treatment, embossing, stapling, needle-punching, teaseling, etc.
  • the web or the tiles may be impregnated with resins, and/or spray printed or silk-screen printed via purposely provided printing frames.
  • the temperatures used for drying after possible steps of dyeing or in any case in the step of surface treatment are controlled so as to remain below the temperature of plasticization that causes shrinking of the heat-shrinkable fibre.
  • the (pigment) colours will in any case be rendered stable during final forming of the hat with temperatures that are more than sufficient to achieve the above purpose.
  • the non-woven fabric, obtained with sliver or with yarn as described above is felted in a fulling machine and then rope-dyed and dried at low temperature.
  • the next step is processing of the treated felted material by means of a partial thermoforming until a semifinished product is obtained shaped substantially like a cone or hat body, made up of non-thermoplastic fibres and partially plasticized thermoplastic fibres.
  • Thermoforming will be performed preferably on discrete tiles of material so that, if the surface treatment has been carried out on material in a continuous web, this may then be cut into tiles, before being thermally formed as a cone or hat body.
  • the step of partial thermoforming (coning) is carried out at a temperature lower than the temperature of complete plasticization of the thermoplastic fibres of the woven or non-woven textile material.
  • this step is carried out on a single mould without female mould and moist materials are used, high temperatures are never reached.
  • the semifinished product is obtained by setting the tile of felted material already treated in a dedicated machine, which via a heated m and its movement, irons the tile, supported by a fabric- pressing device, through a hole, thus imposing the preform for the hat.
  • a dedicated machine which via a heated m and its movement, irons the tile, supported by a fabric- pressing device, through a hole, thus imposing the preform for the hat.
  • the heat shrinking of the heat-shrinkable fibre is started, only in part.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de fabrication de produits semi-finis avec effet feutre destinés à des chapeaux, à partir d'un matériau textile tissé ou non tissé comportant des fibres feutrables et des fibres thermorétractables, ledit matériau étant feutré par aiguilletage et soumis à un traitement de surface et à un thermoformage partiel.
PCT/IT2013/000044 2013-02-12 2013-02-12 Procédé de production de produits textiles semi-finis pour chapeaux de type feutre, chapeaux et produits semi-finis ainsi obtenus WO2014125508A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IT2013/000044 WO2014125508A1 (fr) 2013-02-12 2013-02-12 Procédé de production de produits textiles semi-finis pour chapeaux de type feutre, chapeaux et produits semi-finis ainsi obtenus

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IT2013/000044 WO2014125508A1 (fr) 2013-02-12 2013-02-12 Procédé de production de produits textiles semi-finis pour chapeaux de type feutre, chapeaux et produits semi-finis ainsi obtenus

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2014125508A1 true WO2014125508A1 (fr) 2014-08-21

Family

ID=48096113

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IT2013/000044 WO2014125508A1 (fr) 2013-02-12 2013-02-12 Procédé de production de produits textiles semi-finis pour chapeaux de type feutre, chapeaux et produits semi-finis ainsi obtenus

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2014125508A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITUA20163980A1 (it) * 2016-05-31 2017-12-01 Tessitura Artigiana Piemme Di Papi Roberto E C S N C Un filato termofondibile e relativo tessuto per la realizzazione di capi di abbigliamento quali i cappelli
IT201800007824A1 (it) * 2018-08-03 2020-02-03 Guerra 1855 Di Guerra Pier Luigi & C Sas Metodo di formatura per formare un cappello di feltro
IT201900011175A1 (it) * 2019-07-08 2021-01-08 Olimpia Srl Tecnica di realizzazione di semilavorati in feltro

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB442155A (en) * 1934-08-03 1936-02-03 Fred Fischel Improvements in and relating to hats
FR1207355A (fr) * 1957-11-25 1960-02-16 American Felt Co Tissu feutré composite et procédé pour la confection d'articles vestimentaires aumoyen dudit tissu
GB845162A (en) * 1957-08-24 1960-08-17 Curt Max Zechbauer A method of manufacturing so-called felt hats
FR1509575A (fr) * 1967-01-27 1968-01-12 Procédé de fabrication des formes de soutien de chapeaux en tissu ou articles analogues et moyens de mise en oeuvre
CN1074353A (zh) * 1992-01-15 1993-07-21 莱州市制帽厂 隐花毡帽及工艺方法
EP2508088A1 (fr) * 2011-04-06 2012-10-10 Groz-Beckert KG Élément textile de forme tridimensionnelle et son procédé de fabrication

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB442155A (en) * 1934-08-03 1936-02-03 Fred Fischel Improvements in and relating to hats
GB845162A (en) * 1957-08-24 1960-08-17 Curt Max Zechbauer A method of manufacturing so-called felt hats
FR1207355A (fr) * 1957-11-25 1960-02-16 American Felt Co Tissu feutré composite et procédé pour la confection d'articles vestimentaires aumoyen dudit tissu
FR1509575A (fr) * 1967-01-27 1968-01-12 Procédé de fabrication des formes de soutien de chapeaux en tissu ou articles analogues et moyens de mise en oeuvre
CN1074353A (zh) * 1992-01-15 1993-07-21 莱州市制帽厂 隐花毡帽及工艺方法
EP2508088A1 (fr) * 2011-04-06 2012-10-10 Groz-Beckert KG Élément textile de forme tridimensionnelle et son procédé de fabrication

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITUA20163980A1 (it) * 2016-05-31 2017-12-01 Tessitura Artigiana Piemme Di Papi Roberto E C S N C Un filato termofondibile e relativo tessuto per la realizzazione di capi di abbigliamento quali i cappelli
IT201800007824A1 (it) * 2018-08-03 2020-02-03 Guerra 1855 Di Guerra Pier Luigi & C Sas Metodo di formatura per formare un cappello di feltro
IT201900011175A1 (it) * 2019-07-08 2021-01-08 Olimpia Srl Tecnica di realizzazione di semilavorati in feltro

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
KR101469417B1 (ko) 인조모피 및 그 제조방법과 그 장치
CN107916494B (zh) 一种经编仿沙皮犬绒面料的生产方法
CN101343833B (zh) 褶皱服装面料及其生产方法
CN101407972A (zh) 一种涤纶舒棉绒毛毯及其制备方法
CN102605524A (zh) 一种涤纶丝仿羊羔绒双层面料的生产方法
EP3561164A1 (fr) Tissu à fibres ultra-fines et son procédé de fabrication
CN112323521B (zh) 一种3d印色压花工艺
CN101736478A (zh) 一种复合纤维生成的织物及制法
CN102031702B (zh) 一种织物
US20200385893A1 (en) Recyclable quilt
WO2014125508A1 (fr) Procédé de production de produits textiles semi-finis pour chapeaux de type feutre, chapeaux et produits semi-finis ainsi obtenus
CN101525804B (zh) 一种羊毛针织面料的生产工艺
CN105586674A (zh) 一种含有水溶性纤维的粗纺线及其用于机绣的方法
JP2004521194A (ja) 磨耗耐性およびドレープ性不織布
CN103628269A (zh) 一种仿天鹅绒面料的染整加工方法
CN106079680A (zh) 一种复合革基布及其制备方法
KR100351508B1 (ko) 불규칙한 모양의 주름이 형성된 원단 및 의류의 제조방법
CN105755854B (zh) 一种超纤仿羊羔绒的制备方法
CN109910382B (zh) 一种蕾丝针刺复合面料生产工艺
CN209836460U (zh) 一种起绒针织面料
CN108944109B (zh) 一种彩虹毯制作工艺
CN107201622B (zh) 一种毛呢面料的湿摩擦与机械联合整理方法
CN101684589B (zh) 羊毛制品的制作工艺
CN205871345U (zh) 一种复合革基布
CN107938307A (zh) 网式花纹缝制工艺

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 13716439

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 13716439

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1