WO2014049390A1 - Ensemble textile pourvu d'un revêtement élastomère perméable à l'air et à la vapeur d'eau - Google Patents

Ensemble textile pourvu d'un revêtement élastomère perméable à l'air et à la vapeur d'eau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014049390A1
WO2014049390A1 PCT/IB2012/055095 IB2012055095W WO2014049390A1 WO 2014049390 A1 WO2014049390 A1 WO 2014049390A1 IB 2012055095 W IB2012055095 W IB 2012055095W WO 2014049390 A1 WO2014049390 A1 WO 2014049390A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
garment
textile
textile substrate
coated
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Application number
PCT/IB2012/055095
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English (en)
Inventor
Malkanthi Chandima Batuwitage HEMAKUMARA
Achala Sajeeva SATHARASINGHE
Original Assignee
Mas Research And Innovation (Private) Limited
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Priority to PCT/IB2012/055095 priority Critical patent/WO2014049390A1/fr
Publication of WO2014049390A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014049390A1/fr

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/12Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins
    • D06N3/128Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with silicon polymers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N7/00Flexible sheet materials not otherwise provided for, e.g. textile threads, filaments, yarns or tow, glued on macromolecular material
    • D06N7/0092Non-continuous polymer coating on the fibrous substrate, e.g. plastic dots on fabrics
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D13/00Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches
    • A41D13/0015Sports garments other than provided for in groups A41D13/0007 - A41D13/088
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/08Trimmings; Ornaments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/18Elastic
    • A41D31/185Elastic using layered materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2209/00Properties of the materials
    • D06N2209/10Properties of the materials having mechanical properties
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2209/00Properties of the materials
    • D06N2209/12Permeability or impermeability properties
    • D06N2209/121Permeability to gases, adsorption
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2209/00Properties of the materials
    • D06N2209/12Permeability or impermeability properties
    • D06N2209/121Permeability to gases, adsorption
    • D06N2209/123Breathable
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2211/00Specially adapted uses
    • D06N2211/10Clothing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/10Physical properties porous
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0112One smooth surface, e.g. laminated or coated

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric, or garment thereof comprising areas of enhanced elastic modulus, air and water vapor permeability, by way of coating said textile substrate, fabric or garment with an elastomeric material of pre-determined viscosity.
  • US 20100055334 Al relates to a liquid silicone rubber (LSR) composition useful for forming a breathable coating film on a textile, in particular, woven, non-woven or knitted fabric and synthetic leather for clothing, and a process for forming a breathable coating film on a textile.
  • LSR liquid silicone rubber
  • the word "breathable coating film” intends to mean a coating film which does permeate moisture (water vapor), but does not allow water droplets to permeate (water proof).
  • the elastomeric coating does not claim to impart air permeability to the textile and also the method in this document employs a thermo expandable material to achieve moisture permeability which forms cellular structure on the surface of the substrate which is very different to the surface morphology of the current disclosure.
  • US 4,548,859 relates to sheet materials for providing vacuum passageways and to methods of making the same, and more particularly, to such materials in which a ribbed surface of and holes through a layer of breather material provide the passageways and in which the breather material is formed by shrink drying a silicone rubber release compound on a stretchable ribbed fabric.
  • this prior art document does not describe an elastomeric coating application for the end use in apparel and also the method in this document is limited to stretchable ribbed fabric. Further, this document also does not describe localized application of the LSR coating to achieve localized control in stretch.
  • US 20110083246 Al yet another prior art document, relates to a garment comprising a fabric and an elastomeric coating on at least a portion of at least one side of the fabric to provide designed, localized stretch and support in a garment, wherein the elastomeric coating is located where reduced stretch of the garment is desired.
  • Garments having structures to facilitate cooling and heating are also described. Nonetheless, it is to be noted that the garment is not imparted air permeability by the elastomeric coating. Further, the elastomeric coating of this prior art invention has a 3 Dimensional surface appearance due to the increased thickness of the coating material.
  • WO/2009/042539 yet another prior art document, relates to laminated fabric construction with polyolefm compositions. More specifically, this invention relates to articles including multiple layer (comprising at least two layers) construction, wherein said layers comprise at least one, polyolefm composition.
  • the polyolefm composition is stated to be placed adjacent or between the layers to provide stretch recovery, increase in elastic modulus, moldability, breathability, air and moisture/vapor transport and flexibility property for the article.
  • These articles are stated to be formed into fabrics and/or garments. Nonetheless, it is to be noted that this invention does not disclose the property of retaining two-dimensional surface nature of the substrate after application of elastomer, without any additional processing.
  • This invention also does not relate to application of coating in areas of the garment where restriction in stretch and enhancement in elastic modulus is desired.
  • This invention suggests altering the film to make it porous, to obtain air-permeability which would require additional process steps. Further, the quantification of air-permeability is also not disclosed in this invention.
  • the present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating embedded on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment; and a process for obtaining a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating, said process comprising acts of a) coating and embedding the textile substrate or the fabric or the garment with the elastomeric material on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate or the fabric and b) curing the coated textile substrate or the fabric or the garment to obtain the textile assembly c) optionally, obtaining the textile assembly comprising the garment from the cured textile substrate or the fabric .
  • Fig 01 shows the plan view of a garment made with the elastomeric coating on selected zones, where increased elastic modulus is desired.
  • Fig 02 shows a section of a fabric with the elastomeric coating applied with a shape of a brassier.
  • Fig 03 shows the garment panel of the brassier after cutting through the cut marks shown in Fig 02.
  • Fig 04 shows the plan view of the border of the non-coated and coated areas depicted by a circle in Fig 01, Fig 02 and Fig 03.
  • Fig 05 shows the cross section of the coated/non coated border marked by the dashed line A- A' in Fig 04.
  • Fig 06 shows an enlarged view of the area 508 demarcated in the Fig 05.
  • the present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating embedded on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment.
  • the textile substrate and the fabric are in piece form or continuous form, and wherein the coating is embedded on the textile substrate, or fabric where one or several parts of the garment's predetermined boundary lies.
  • the garment is made of the textile substrate or the fabric as above.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are produced by method selected from a group comprising knitting, weaving, non- woven, electro-spinning or blow-spinning.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are manufactured with one or a blend of fibre material, filament or yarn selected from a group comprising animal based fibre, plant based fibre, man-made fibre and mineral based fibre or any combination thereof.
  • material for the elastomeric coating is silicone.
  • the elastomeric coating has viscosity in the range of about 3000cP to about 20000cP at the point of coating.
  • the elastomeric coating is applied onto the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment using techniques selected from a group comprising silk screen printing, screen printing and extrusion nozzle application, or any combination thereof.
  • the elastomeric coating is applied onto the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment to form a layer of coating having thickness ranging from about 0.1 micron to about lOmicron.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated have enhanced elastic modulus, wherein the elastic modulus increase is in range of about 50% to about 500% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are air permeable, wherein relative air permeability is in range of about 10% to about 100% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are water vapor permeable, wherein the water vapor permeability is in range of about 10% to about 90% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated retains dimension of original substrate.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are thermoformed to stable three-dimensional shape.
  • the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are thermoformed using thermal molding process.
  • the present disclosure further relates to a process for obtaining a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating, said process comprising acts of:
  • the coating is carried out by applying the elastomeric material onto the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment to form a layer of coating having thickness ranging from about 0.1 micron to about lOmicron.
  • the curing is carried out by technique selected from a group comprising heat curing, ultra-violet radiation curing, moisture curing, infrared radiation curing, microwave radiation curing, steam curing and room temperature curing or any combination thereof.
  • the heat curing is carried out at temperature ranging from about 80°C to about 200°C.
  • the curing is carried out for a time duration ranging from about 10 seconds to about 48 hours.
  • the coated textile substrate and the fabric are cut through the coated predetermined boundary of the garment to get reinforcement in said boundary area of the garment.
  • the present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment made out of the textile substrate or the fabric comprising an elastomeric coating with air and water vapor permeability, made using an elastomeric material (of pre-determined viscosity) on at least a portion and at least one side of the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment made out of textile substrate to provide designed localized elastic modulus enhancements.
  • elastic modulus refers to the build-up of tensile force within the material at a given level of extension within the elastic range, in the direction of extension of the material.
  • the said elastomeric coating is embedded within the textile substrate interior, providing excellent handle, hand feel and drapability, low friction and possibility of reshaping with appropriate molding conditions.
  • the present disclosure further focuses on a textile substrate or fabric in piece form or continuous form or a garment made of similar textile substrate or fabric with an elastomeric coating, which provides solutions to the disadvantages related to the prior art mentioned above.
  • the present disclosure describes a textile substrate or fabric in piece form or continuous form or a garment made of similar textile substrate or fabric with an elastomeric coating, on at least a portion of at least one side of the substrate or the fabric, wherein the coating is located in a portion of the substrate or the fabric where increased elastic modulus is desired.
  • the coated elastomeric substance lies within the substrate's or fabrics' interior, with only a thin layer, in the range of about 0.1 micron to about 10 micron, more specifically a layer less than 1 micron remaining on the surface of the substrate using a single application process followed by curing process, which does not affect the surface properties of the substrate.
  • the thickness of the elastomeric coating is dependent on the structure of the textile substrate or the fabric used and areal density of the coating during the application process.
  • the areas of the coating allow air and water vapor to permeate from one side of the substrate, fabric or the garment to the other side.
  • the surface morphology of the substrate, fabric or the garment in the coated areas remains two dimensional and flat throughout the coated surface and the boundaries of the coating.
  • the surface texture of the substrate, fabric or the garment remains unchanged in the coated areas, with unaffected haptic properties compared to that of the un-coated areas of the substrate, fabric or the garment. Further the friction level of the surface in the coated areas remains unaltered to that of the substrates surface and the draping properties of the coated areas remain similar to that of the original substrate.
  • the coated areas are thermoformed to a stable three dimensional shape using a thermal molding process with appropriate conditions.
  • the moldability of the substrate is retained to an extent, even when the coating is a thermoset (materials which does not change shape physical form with heat) material such as silicone. Since the porosity of the substrate is maintained even after the application of the coating, the yarn/fibre structure is free to move and reshape when an external force is given. Once the reshaping is done the yarn/fibre structure is heat set to permanently retain the shape, even after the external force is removed. This process is facilitated largely by the areas of the yarn/fibre which are free of the elastomeric coating, in the coated areas (Fig. 6).
  • the coated areas of the textile substrate, fabric or garment are thermoformed to a stable three dimensional shape using a thermal molding process with appropriate conditions (temperature, pressure, dwell time, shape of the mold.)
  • a thermal molding process with appropriate conditions (temperature, pressure, dwell time, shape of the mold.)
  • the substrate is heated just above the glass transition temperature (T g ) or the softening point and well below the melting point and pressed to the required shape using a heated metal mold or pair of molds.
  • T g glass transition temperature
  • the molded substrate is cooled to the ambient temperature to retain the shape.
  • Appropriate conditions in this regard will vary in a wide range, depending on the properties of the substrate such as thermal properties, composition, thickness, structure, surface properties, elastic properties; and the properties of the elastomeric coating such as thermal properties, composition, thickness, elastic properties; and required shape and size of the molded area.
  • the coating is placed on the area of the textile substrate or the fabric where the final garments' intended boundary lies and then cut through the intended boundary with the coating to get reinforcement in the boundary area of the garment without doubling the substrate or the fabric at the boundary.
  • the textile substrate, fabric or the garment are produced with one of either but not limited to technologies such as knitting (Warp knitting such as raschel Tricot, weft knitting such as circular or flat), weaving, non- woven methods (blow spinning, staple nonwoven, spun laid, air-laid, needle punched, thermal bonded, hydro-entangled, chemical bonded and so forth), electro-spinning, blow- spinning etc.
  • knitting Warp knitting such as raschel Tricot, weft knitting such as circular or flat
  • weaving non- woven methods
  • staple nonwoven spun laid, air-laid, needle punched, thermal bonded, hydro-entangled, chemical bonded and so forth
  • electro-spinning blow- spinning etc.
  • the textile substrate is manufactured with one or a blend of either but not limited to fibre materials or yarns made with fibre materials such as Polyamide, Polyester, Polyolefm, Polyurethane, Polyacrylonitrile, Natural cellulose, regenerated cellulose, natural protein etc.
  • textile substrate is porous, extensible and/or elastic at least in one direction.
  • the substrate of the instant disclosure is made out of fibres/filaments or fibre/filament assemblies made from one or a combination of Animal based fibres such as Byssus, Chiengora, Qiviut, Yak, Rabbit, Wool, Lambswool, Cashmere wool, Mohair wool, Camel hair, Alpaca / Vicuna / Guanaco / Llama wool, Angora wool; Plant based fibres such as Abaca, Coir, Cotton, Flax, Jute, Kapok, Kenaf, Raffia, bamboo, Hemp, Modal, Pina, Ramie, Sisal, Soy protein; Man-made fibres such as Rayon(Viscose), Acetate, Polyester, Aramid, Acrylic, Lyocell, Nylon, Spandex, Polyurethane, Olefin, PLA (Poly Lactic acid) fibre, Polylactide; Mineral
  • the elastomeric coating material is one of either but not limited to a silicone, polyurethane, PVA (Polyvinyl acetate), acrylic, polyolefm, rubber, hot melt elastomer, cyanoacrylate, epoxy, polyvinyl acetate, plastisol, thermoplastic (including polyurethanes, polyesters, and polyamides), latex polymer, thermoset or a combination which are in liquid form or is converted to liquid form or a liquid dispersion at the point of application.
  • PVA Polyvinyl acetate
  • acrylic polyolefm
  • rubber hot melt elastomer
  • cyanoacrylate epoxy
  • polyvinyl acetate plastisol
  • thermoplastic including polyurethanes, polyesters, and polyamides
  • latex polymer thermoset or a combination which are in liquid form or is converted to liquid form or a liquid dispersion at the point of application.
  • the elastomeric material so chosen especially needs to be durable to washing, abrasion etc.
  • the elastomeric coating of the instant disclosure possesses this adhesion property.
  • Elastic properties The elastomeric material or elastomer should have sufficient stretch & recovery properties depending on the application. For example for a high stretch/ low elastic modulus application, an elastomer with high elastic modulus properties may not be suitable. The elastomeric material of the instant disclosure possesses this elastic property.
  • Viscosity The elastomeric material or elastomer should be in liquid form at the point of application, with sufficient flow/self-leveling/penetration properties, to allow it to absorb/embed into the fibrous structure (in a structure such as a knitted or woven fabric where the liquid goes into the yarn and stays between the fibres of the same yarn or adjacent yarns (Fig.5 and Fig.6) and/or coat the fibrous structure (in a non-woven structure where the liquid makes a thin coating on the surface of the fibres, and makes a bond at contact points of fibres).
  • These flow/self-leveling properties are dependent on the viscosity. If the viscosity is low the flow/self-leveling/penetration will be high and vice-versa.
  • the elastomeric material or elastomer should have sufficient tensile strength which also depends on the application. For example for an application such as sportswear where high impact forces are involved, an elastomer with high tensile properties may be required. Whereas for intimate apparel, this might not be of high importance, since there is less impact forces on the garment.
  • the elastomeric material of the instant disclosure possesses this tensile strength.
  • the viscosity of the elastomeric coating liquid in the non-cured stage is within the range of about 3000cP to about 20000cP.
  • the elastomeric coating is mixed with one or more of either but not limited to, colour pigments, fluorescent pigments, flame retardant materials, low density fillers, in the non-cured form.
  • the application of the elastomeric coating is carried out with one of either but not limited to a silk screen printing, screen printing (Flatbed, circular or Rotary) a stencil printing, a doctor blade application or coating, a gravure coating, a spraying method, a transfer printing, an extrusion nozzle application or nozzle extrusion, sprinkling, pad printing, painting etc.
  • the curing after the application of the elastomeric coating is carried out with one of either but not limited to heat curing, ultra-violet radiation curing, moisture curing, infrared radiation, microwave radiation curing, steam curing, and room temperature curing, depending on the properties of the elastomeric coating material type.
  • a single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 1/Garment 1] with 88%/12%:Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 290g/m 2 is fully coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using a silk screen printing process.
  • the areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 100 g/m 2 by adjusting the print settings and the silk screen mesh size.
  • the printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60seconds in a conveyer oven.
  • the coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990.
  • the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • a single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 2/Garment 2] with 72%/28% Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 90g/m 2 is fully coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using a silk screen printing process.
  • the areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 60 g/m 2 by adjusting the print settings and the silk screen mesh size.
  • the printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60 seconds in a conveyer oven.
  • the coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990.
  • the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in the Table 1.
  • a single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 1/Garment 1] with 88%/12%:Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 290g/m 2 is coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using continuous extrusion nozzle printing.
  • the areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 100 g/m 2 by adjusting the nozzle setting, and the extrusion pressure while the fabric is run at a speed of 2m/min.
  • the printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60seconds in a conveyer oven.
  • the coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990. Similarly the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • a single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 2/Garment 2] with 72%/28% Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 90g/m 2 is coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using a continuous extrusion nozzle printing.
  • the areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 60 g/m 2 by adjusting the nozzle setting, and extrusion pressure while the fabric is run at a speed of 2m/min.
  • the printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60 seconds in a conveyer oven.
  • the coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990. Similarly the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in the Table 2.
  • Relative air permeability Air permeability in the coated area X 100
  • Air permeability in the non-coated area is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990.
  • Modulus increase (M R ) Modulus in the coated area - Modulus in the non coated area X 100
  • Elastic modulus refers to the Modulus at 40% elongation measured on the coated and non- coated fabrics with the Test Method: Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power And Recovery)
  • Example 5 The below example will explain the effect of viscosity in the silicone coating on the breathability, hand feel and elastic modulus increase in comparative terms.
  • Quantification of hand-feel is a subjective measurement.
  • aspects to the handfeel in this context of the instant disclosure such as softness, surface friction, flexibility, two dimensionality (flatness or planer nature) drapability (ability of a material/substrate to closely maintain a shape/contour of a rigid/solid object when covered/wrapped/dressed with it) etc.
  • qualitative measurements instead are given in comparison to such aspects of the non-coated area of the fabric with the coated area, in the instant disclosure. For example a rating of "Excellent” is given if all the mentioned aspects of the coated fabric closely match the relevant aspects of the non-coated fabrics. Similarly a rating of "Poor” is given if all or most of the mentioned aspects of the non-coated fabric are significantly altered after the application of the coating. Intermediate ratings of "Good” and “Moderate” are given based on similar interpretation.
  • comfort is a composite property which consists the aspects like air permeability, moisture vapor permeability, drapability and handfeel, softness etc. Some of these may also be interdependent.
  • the aesthetic properties in this context more specifically refer to the uniformity of the appearance of the coated areas, when worn on to a body.
  • methods used make the garment bulkier/thicker and irregular, which will be reflected from the outside when worn on to a body.
  • the drapability is impaired, which reduces the aesthetic value of the product.
  • the elastomeric coating is fully embedded to the porous textile substrate, hence the surface of the substrate is two dimensional (flat or planar) and regular. When combined with the superior drapability, the flatness of the substrate will result in uniformity and smooth contours on the surface when worn on to a body.
  • FIG. 1 depicts a garment according to an embodiment of the present disclosure.
  • an elastomeric coating 102 is applied to the garment 101 in predetermined areas.
  • the elastomeric coating increases the elastic modulus of the fabric in areas where it is applied, thereby providing the garment with enhanced modulus over a specific area.
  • a single panel of fabric is designed to possess varied elastic modulus features at multiple locations as desired.
  • high modulus zones 103 are located where the elastomeric coating 102 is applied to the garment 101.
  • the area 104 shows the boundary between of the coated and the non-coated fabric which is enlarged in the Fig 4 and Fig 5.
  • FIG 2 depicts a section of a fabric which is applied with the elastomeric coating according to the embodiment of the present disclosure.
  • the elastomeric coating 202 is applied to the fabric piece 201 with a shape of front side of a brassier, in the areas where increase in elastic modulus is desired.
  • the coating 202 is done in such a way that it covers the boundary 303 of the finished garment panel shown in Fig 3.
  • the boundary is depicted as dotted lines 203.
  • the coated fabric panel will be cut through 203 to get the garment panel 301 shown in Fig 03.
  • the areas 205 are kept without coating, so that they have the elastic modulus level of the non-coated fabric.
  • the area 204 shows the boundary between of the coated and the non-coated fabric which is enlarged in Fig 4 and Fig 5.
  • FIG 3 depicts the finished garment panel 301 after cutting through the boundaries 203 shown in Fig 2.
  • the areas 302 covers the zones of the finished garment panel 301 where the increase in elastic modulus is desired and the areas 305 is left uncoated to have the elastic modulus of the base fabric.
  • the boundary 303 made by cutting through 203 in Fig 3 is reinforced with coating 302 so that the boundary has high elastic modulus. Also the boundary 303 is supported by the coating 302 which is embedded inside the fabric, so that the fibre fragments in the cut edge of the fabric does not protrude.
  • the area 304 shows the boundary between the coated and the non-coated fabric which is enlarged in the Fig 4 and Fig 5.
  • FIG 4 depicts the enlarged plan view of the areas 104, 204 and 304 shown in Fig 01, Fig 02 and Fig 03 respectively.
  • the figure shows the close up of the yarn and loop structure of the knitted fabric employed for the garments shown in Fig 01, Fig 02 and Fig 03.
  • the non-coated area 401 and the coated area 402 are separated by the border 403 indicated by the dotted line B-B' in Fig 4.
  • the ribbed loop structures 404 and 405 run parallel to each other, in vertical direction of the fabric.
  • the ribbed loop structures 404 and 405 are held together by the connecting yarns 406 and 407 in the knitted structure.
  • the holes 408 and 409 between the ribbed loops 404 and 405 and the connecting yarns 406 and 407 help to transfer air, and water vapor from one side of the fabric to the other side.
  • the ribbed loop structures in the coated area 405, maintain their physical dimensions similar to that of the ribbed loop structures in the non- coated area 406.
  • the connecting yarns in the coated area 407 maintains the physical dimensions similar to that of the connecting yarns in the non-coated area 406, hence the holes in the coated area 409 will allow same amount of air and water permeability to that of the holes in the non-coated area 408. This is due to the fact that the elastomeric coating penetrates into the fibre structure, without leaving a continuous film on the fabric surface.
  • FIG 5 depicts the cross sectional view of the section demarcated by dotted line A-A' in Fig 4.
  • the cross section of the ribbed loop structures 501 and 502 made out of bundles of fibres which are held together closely, by the internal forces within the structure.
  • the coated and non-coated areas are separated by the dotted line B-B, which is analogous to the dotted line B-B' in Fig 4.
  • the elastomeric coating penetrates through the fibre bundle down to the level 507 as shown in the Fig 5.
  • the level of penetration may depend on several factors such as the pressure of application, the amount of coating applied, the viscosity of the coating in non-cured form, the porosity of the fabric and yarn structure etc.
  • the physical dimensions remain unchanged in the elements 502,504 and 506 in the coated area to that of the elements 501,503 and 505 in the non-coated area, with only a thin coating which is negligible compared to the dimensions of the yarn (less than 1 micron) of the elastomer remaining on the surface of the yarn.
  • the holes in the coated area 506 and the holes in the non-coated areas 505 acts similarly in transferring air and water vapor through the structure.
  • FIG 6 shows an enlarged view of the area 508 demarcated in Fig 5.
  • the figure clearly illustrates the cross sections of the yarns in the coated area 603 and the yarn in the non-coated area 602.
  • These interstitial spaces have effective diameters smaller than fibre diameter, generating strong capillary forces which facilitate liquid penetration in to the yarns 602 and 603.
  • the low viscose elastomeric coating is applied to the area 402 in Fig 4 the interstitial spaces between the fibres in the coated area 605 readily get filled with the coating, and embedded inside the yarn leaving only a very thin layer 606 on the surface of the yarn, before the curing of the coating takes place.
  • the present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising a textile substrate, fabric or a garment made using the said textile substrate or fabric, wherein the textile assembly is coated with an elastomeric material on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile assembly and wherein the elastomeric coating is embedded within the textile assembly.
  • the textile assembly so coated possesses the properties of air permeability, water vapor permeability, dimensional continuity (ability to retain the 2-Dimensional surface property of the textile assembly after coating un-affected) and other comfort and aesthetic properties such as drapability, softness, handfeel/haptic property, retention of surface friction, flexibility etc.
  • the textile assembly of the instant disclosure further has the ability of being thermoformed into a stable 3-Dimensional shape.
  • the present disclosure further relates to a process of obtaining the textile assembly comprising the textile substrate, the fabric or garment thereof.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un ensemble textile comprenant un substrat textile, un tissu ou un vêtement constitué du substrat textile ou du tissu comprenant un revêtement élastomère perméable à l'air et à la vapeur d'eau. Un matériau élastomère présentant une viscosité prédéfinie est appliqué sur au moins une partie et au moins un côté du substrat textile, du tissu ou du vêtement constitué du substrat textile, pour améliorer le module d'élasticité localisé conçu. Ledit revêtement élastomère est inséré à l'intérieur du substrat textile, ce qui confère à ce dernier une sensation agréable au toucher et une excellente aptitude à être drapé, un coefficient de frottement réduit et une possibilité de remodelage dans des conditions de moulage appropriées.
PCT/IB2012/055095 2012-09-25 2012-09-25 Ensemble textile pourvu d'un revêtement élastomère perméable à l'air et à la vapeur d'eau WO2014049390A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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PCT/IB2012/055095 WO2014049390A1 (fr) 2012-09-25 2012-09-25 Ensemble textile pourvu d'un revêtement élastomère perméable à l'air et à la vapeur d'eau

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PCT/IB2012/055095 WO2014049390A1 (fr) 2012-09-25 2012-09-25 Ensemble textile pourvu d'un revêtement élastomère perméable à l'air et à la vapeur d'eau

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3153040A1 (fr) 2015-10-07 2017-04-12 Mast Industries (Far East) Limited Partie de soutien-gorge et soutien-gorge pourvu de zones de modules d'élasticité variable
US10448678B2 (en) 2014-08-13 2019-10-22 Mast Industries (Far East) Limited Bra incorporating shape memory polymers and method of manufacture thereof
WO2023158371A1 (fr) 2022-02-16 2023-08-24 Mas Innovation (Private) Limited Matériau composite, procédé de fabrication de celui-ci et vêtement comprenant le matériau composite

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US4548859A (en) 1984-10-12 1985-10-22 The Boeing Company Breather material and method of coating fabric with silicone rubber
WO1989008553A1 (fr) * 1988-03-14 1989-09-21 Sili-Tex, Inc. Bandes fibreuses avec encapsulation de polymere de silicone
WO1999046118A1 (fr) * 1998-03-09 1999-09-16 Gore Enterprise Holdings, Inc. Tissu antiderapant, impermeable a l'eau et permeable a la vapeur d'eau
WO2001056710A1 (fr) * 2000-02-02 2001-08-09 Tilak Shah Substrats poreux impregnes d'un polymere
WO2009042539A1 (fr) 2007-09-28 2009-04-02 Invista Technologies S.Ar.L. Construction de tissu stratifié avec des compositions de polyoléfine
US20100055334A1 (en) 2006-04-26 2010-03-04 Dow Corning Korea Ltd. liquid silicone rubber composition for forming breathable coating film on a textile and process for forming a breathable coating film on a textile
US20110083246A1 (en) 2009-10-14 2011-04-14 Ranil Kirthi Vitarana Garment with Elastomeric Coating

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4548859A (en) 1984-10-12 1985-10-22 The Boeing Company Breather material and method of coating fabric with silicone rubber
WO1989008553A1 (fr) * 1988-03-14 1989-09-21 Sili-Tex, Inc. Bandes fibreuses avec encapsulation de polymere de silicone
WO1999046118A1 (fr) * 1998-03-09 1999-09-16 Gore Enterprise Holdings, Inc. Tissu antiderapant, impermeable a l'eau et permeable a la vapeur d'eau
WO2001056710A1 (fr) * 2000-02-02 2001-08-09 Tilak Shah Substrats poreux impregnes d'un polymere
US20100055334A1 (en) 2006-04-26 2010-03-04 Dow Corning Korea Ltd. liquid silicone rubber composition for forming breathable coating film on a textile and process for forming a breathable coating film on a textile
WO2009042539A1 (fr) 2007-09-28 2009-04-02 Invista Technologies S.Ar.L. Construction de tissu stratifié avec des compositions de polyoléfine
US20110083246A1 (en) 2009-10-14 2011-04-14 Ranil Kirthi Vitarana Garment with Elastomeric Coating
WO2011045655A2 (fr) * 2009-10-14 2011-04-21 Mas Research & Innovation (Private) Limited Vêtement comportant un revêtement élastomère

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10448678B2 (en) 2014-08-13 2019-10-22 Mast Industries (Far East) Limited Bra incorporating shape memory polymers and method of manufacture thereof
EP3153040A1 (fr) 2015-10-07 2017-04-12 Mast Industries (Far East) Limited Partie de soutien-gorge et soutien-gorge pourvu de zones de modules d'élasticité variable
US9883702B2 (en) 2015-10-07 2018-02-06 Mast Industries (Far East) Limited Portion of bra and bra having zones of varying elastic moduli
WO2023158371A1 (fr) 2022-02-16 2023-08-24 Mas Innovation (Private) Limited Matériau composite, procédé de fabrication de celui-ci et vêtement comprenant le matériau composite
US11913165B2 (en) 2022-02-16 2024-02-27 Mas Innovation (Private) Limited Textile fabric-elastomer composite

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