WO2014009152A1 - A photoprotective personal care composition - Google Patents

A photoprotective personal care composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014009152A1
WO2014009152A1 PCT/EP2013/063339 EP2013063339W WO2014009152A1 WO 2014009152 A1 WO2014009152 A1 WO 2014009152A1 EP 2013063339 W EP2013063339 W EP 2013063339W WO 2014009152 A1 WO2014009152 A1 WO 2014009152A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
visible light
brij
fatty acid
tween
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2013/063339
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Nilmoni Ghosh
Bharath Palanisamy
Original Assignee
Unilever N.V.
Unilever Plc
Conopco, Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever N.V., Unilever Plc, Conopco, Inc. filed Critical Unilever N.V.
Priority to JP2015520886A priority Critical patent/JP2015522047A/ja
Priority to CN201380036743.8A priority patent/CN104411368A/zh
Priority to IN5MUN2015 priority patent/IN2015MN00005A/en
Publication of WO2014009152A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014009152A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355—Quinones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a photoprotective personal care composition.
  • the invention more particularly relates to a sunscreen composition that provides enhanced visible light protection.
  • Solar radiation includes ultraviolet (UV), visible and infrared (IR) radiations.
  • UV radiation has a wavelength between 200 nm and 400 nm.
  • Bulk of the UV radiation from the sun which falls on earth are the UV-A (320 to 400 nm) and UV-B (290 to 320 nm) radiation.
  • UV radiation has traditionally been known to cause various problems like reddening of the skin, localized irritation, sunburn, melanoma and formation of wrinkles.
  • majority of the cosmetic solutions to protecting skin have targeted blocking the UV radiation from falling on the skin.
  • compositions for providing protection against visible radiation.
  • Some of the actives that provide visible light protection include curcumin, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene, alizarin and xanthophyll.
  • curcumin e.g. curcumin, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene, alizarin and xanthophyll.
  • Each of these molecules have one or the other problem e.g. insufficient solubilisation, colouration of the composition and of the skin when the composition is applied on it, and instability in storage.
  • the present inventors have been working towards not only solving the above problems but towards enhancing the efficacy of these actives in providing visible light protection in personal care composition especially for topical applications.
  • CN101623240A (Hangzhou Liuyi Technology Co, 2010) discloses a method for preparing novel sun cream which comprises the main components of tea polyphenol, zinc oxide, glycerol, beta-carotene, Tween-80 and vaseline.
  • US5152983A discloses a sunscreen composition suitable for topical application to human skin or hair, to provide protection from excessive exposure to ultra-violet rays, comprises: i) an effective amount of a substituted 1 ,3-diketone having an ultra-violet absorption band within the range of from 250 to 500 nm, and a extinction coefficient E of from 5,000 to 70,000; and ii) a physiologically acceptable vehicle for the substituted 1 ,3-diketone.
  • US2005008588A discloses the use of at least one agent for screening out light radiation with a wavelength ranging from 370 to 500 nm as an agent for inhibiting the degradation of endogenous carotenoids present in the skin.
  • Another object of the present invention is to achieve the above object using well known actives which are widely and inexpensively available.
  • the first aspect of the present invention provides for a photoprotective personal care composition
  • a photoprotective personal care composition comprising (i) 0.2 to 5 wt% of an organic visible light absorber having a solubility in water of less than 0.1 wt% at 25 °C and a molar absorption coefficient higher than 1000 M "1 cm “1 at a wavelength in the range of 400 to 800 nm;
  • a cosmetically acceptable base comprising 1 to 25 wt% fatty acid
  • the cosmetically acceptable base comprises 0.1 to 10 wt% soap by weight of the composition.
  • Another aspect of the invention relates to a method of providing enhanced visible light protection comprising the step of applying a composition of the invention to the external surface of the body.
  • a photoprotective personal care composition as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to sun-exposed areas of the skin and/or hair of mammals, especially humans.
  • Such a composition may be generally classified as leave-on or rinse off, and includes any product applied to a human body for also improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics. It is more preferably a leave-on product.
  • the composition of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, gel, or toner, or applied with an implement or via a face mask, pad or patch.
  • compositions include leave-on skin lotions, creams, antiperspirants, deodorants, lipsticks, foundations, mascara, sunless tanners and sunscreen lotions.
  • Skin as used herein is meant to include skin on the face and body (e.g., neck, chest, back, arms, underarms, hands, legs, buttocks and scalp) and especially to the sun exposed parts thereof.
  • the composition of the invention is also of relevance to applications on any other keratinous substrates of the human body other than skin e.g. hair where products may be formulated with specific aim of providing photoprotection.
  • the visible light absorber used in the composition of the present invention has a low water solubility which is less than 0.1 wt% at 25 °C and has a molar absorption coefficient higher than 1000 M "1 cm "1 at a wavelength in the range of 400 to 800 nm.
  • the absorber has a molar absorption coefficient higher than 1000 M "1 cm "1 at, at least one wavelength in the range of 400 to 800 nm.
  • the molar absorption coefficient ( ⁇ ), molar extinction coefficient, or molar absorptivity is a measure of how strongly a chemical species absorbs light at a given wavelength.
  • visible light absorbers for use in the composition of the invention are curcumin, ⁇ - carotene, lycopene, Alizarin and Xanthophyll.
  • curcumin ⁇ - carotene
  • lycopene lycopene
  • Alizarin Xanthophyll
  • Curcumin is available naturally from Curcuma longa plant.
  • the pure curcumin used for the experiments was obtained from Rolex Chemicals, lycopene >90% from tomato was obtained from Sigma Aldrich, beta carotene (synthetic) was also obtained from Sigma Aldrich.
  • Alizarin is a red pigment from madder plant which is also synthesized chemically was obtained from Alfa Aesar chemicals.
  • Xanthophylls in general are yellow pigments belongs to the class of carotenoids separated from natural plant extracts.
  • curcumin Of the various visible light absorbers, the preferred ones are curcumin, Alizarin and beta carotene, the most preferred one being curcumin.
  • Curcumin molecule belongs to the family of ⁇ -diketones. It has an active methylene carbon with two hydrogen atoms and it exists in two tautomeric forms and their structure is shown below.
  • the organic visible light absorber is present in 0.2 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
  • the non-ionic surfactant for use in the composition of the present invention has an HLB value of at least 10, preferably at least 13, further more preferably at least 15.
  • HLB 20 x Mh / M wherein Mh is the molecular mass of the hydrophilic portion of the molecule and M is the molecular mass of the whole molecule, giving a result on an arbitrary scale of 0 to 20.
  • Typical values for various surfactants are given below:
  • a value from 4 to 8 indicates an anti-foaming agent
  • a value from 7 to 1 1 indicates a W/O (water in oil) emulsifier
  • a value from 12 to 16 indicates oil in water emulsifier
  • a value from 1 1 to 14 indicates a wetting agent
  • a value from 12 to 15 is typical of detergents
  • a value of 16 to 20 indicates a solubiliser or hydrotrope
  • the non-ionic surfactant is preferably selected from the group comprising fatty alcohol ethoxylates, fatty acid ethoxylates, alkyl phenol ethoxylates or polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters.
  • Preferred non-ionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ethoxylate class are sold under the brand names of Brij 35, Brij 97, Brij700, Brij 99, Brij 56, Brij 76, C12E07, and Brij S10.
  • Preferred non-ionic surfactants of the fatty acid ethoxylate class are sold under the brand names of Myrj S20, Myrj S40, Myrj S40, Myrj S50, and PEG-100 stearate.
  • Preferred non-ionic surfactants of the polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters class are sold under the brand names of Tween 21 , Tween20, Tween40, Tween 60, Tween 65 tristearate, Tween 85 trioleate, and Tween 80.
  • non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl phenol ethoxylate class are sold under the brand names of Triton X1 14, Triton X100, Triton X102, TritonX165, Triton X305, TritonX405 or Triton X705. It is observed that the above mentioned non-ionic surfactants all have an HLB value higher than 10. The inventors have also used non-ionic surfactants having HLB value less than 10 and other types of surfactants e.g of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic class and found that they do not provide the enhanced visible light protection when used in these types of compositions as compared to the selected non-ionic surfactants.
  • the non-ionic surfactant is included in 0.2 to 5% preferably 0.5 to 3%, more preferably in 1 to 2.5% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable base comprising 1 to 25% fatty acid preferably 3 to 20% fatty acid.
  • the composition may include 0.1 to 10% soap.
  • the cosmetically acceptable bases are preferably in a cream, lotion, or emulsion format.
  • the preferred base is one which is an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • a more preferred format is a cream or lotion, further more preferred format is a vanishing cream.
  • Vanishing cream base is one which may comprise 3 to 25%, more preferably 5 to 20% fatty acid.
  • the fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the base preferably comprises 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.1 to 3% soap.
  • Ci 2 to C 2 o fatty acids are especially preferred in vanishing cream bases, further more preferred being C14 to Ci 8 fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid is preferably
  • Soaps in the vanishing cream base include alkali metal salt of fatty acids, like sodium or potassium salts
  • the soap is preferably the potassium salt of the fatty acid mixture.
  • the fatty acid in vanishing cream base is often prepared using hystric acid which is substantially (generally about 90 to 95%) a mixture of stearic acid and palmitic acid. Thus, inclusion of hystric acid and its soap to prepare the vanishing cream base is within the scope of the present invention. It is particularly preferred that the composition comprises at least 6%, preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 12% fatty acid.
  • the cosmetically acceptable base is usually from 10 to 99.9%, preferably from 50 to 99% by weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetically acceptable base preferably includes water. Water is preferably included in 35 to 90%, more preferably 50 to 85%, further more preferably 50 to 80% by weight of the composition.
  • the inventors believe that the visible light absorbers used in the invention are better solubilised in the matrix comprising the specific non-ionic surfactant and fatty acid thereby enhancing the spreading of these molecules on the substrate of interest leading to the high photoprotection desired by the way of the present invention.
  • the personal care composition may preferably additionally comprise one or more UV sunscreens.
  • the UV sunscreens may be inorganic or organic.
  • organic sunscreen agents are suitable for use in combination with the essential ingredients of this invention. Most suitable organic sunscreen are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (as a UVB sunscreen agent) and/ or butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (as a UVA sunscreen agent).
  • a safe and effective amount of sunscreen may be used in the compositions of the present invention.
  • the composition preferably comprises from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5% w/w of a sunscreen agent.
  • Useful inorganic sun-blocks are also preferably used in the present invention. These include, for example, zinc oxide iron oxide, silica, such as fumed silica, and titanium dioxide.
  • inorganic sunscreen is preferably present in 0.1 to 10% by weight of the composition.
  • the preferred inorganic sunscreens are titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
  • the inorganic sunscreens preferably have an average particle size in the range of 5 to 100 nm.
  • the inorganic sunscreen is preferably hydrophobically coated. Suitable hydrophobic coating materials are aluminium stearate, silicones or ferric stearate.
  • composition of the invention may additionally comprise a skin lightening agent.
  • the skin lightening agent is preferably chosen from a vitamin B3 compound or its derivative e.g. niacin, nicotinic acid, niacinamide or other well known skin lightening agents e.g.
  • Vitamin B3 compound or its derivative e.g. niacin, nicotinic acid, niacinamide are the more preferred skin lightening agent, most preferred being niacinamide.
  • Niacinamide when used, is preferably present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise other diluents.
  • the diluents act as a dispersant or carrier for other materials present in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
  • Diluents other than water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders.
  • composition of the invention may comprise a conventional deodourant base as the cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • a deodorant is meant a product in the stick, roll-on, or propellant medium which is used for personal deodorant benefit e.g. application in the under-arm or any other area which may or may not contain anti-perspirant actives.
  • Deodorant compositions can generally be in the form of firm solids, soft solids, gels, creams, and liquids and are dispensed using applicators appropriate to the physical characteristics of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise a wide range of other optional components.
  • CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook Second Edition, 1992, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety, describes a wide variety of non- limiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention.
  • antioxidants examples include: antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, colorants, thickeners, polymers, astringents, fragrance, humectants, opacifying agents, conditioners, exfoliating agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, natural extracts, essential oils, skin sensates, skin soothing agents, and skin healing agents.
  • a method of providing enhanced visible light protection comprising the step of applying a composition of the invention on to a desired external surface of the body.
  • the method preferably comprises applying the composition and leaving it on for at least 5 minutes, preferably at least one hour.
  • the composition is not washed off for these time frames after applying the composition.
  • the process of preparing the compositions was as follows. Water was taken in a stainless steel container and heater to 80 °C under constant stirring using a Silverson mixer model L4RT. The water phase ingredients (glycerine, methyl paraben, non-ionic surfactant and potassium hydroxide) were then separately weighed and added to the water under stirring for about ten minutes. Stearic acid was weighed separately, heated to a molten state and added to the water phase with stirring. The rest of the ingredients were then added to the mixture and homogenization was continued for 5 more minutes. The composition thus formed was slowly cooled to room temperature. Various compositions using the base composition of Table - 1 with different non-ionic surfactants were prepared as shown in Table - 2. The compositions were tested for % transmission which is an indicator of degree of photoprotection. The lower the transmission the better the photoprotection. The samples were tested using the following procedure.
  • Transpore (ex.3M) tape was used as substrate to spread the compositions.
  • Transpore tape was mounted onto a steel holder and on which 2mg/cm 2 of the composition was dispensed using a syringe.
  • Parafilm was used as a finger coat and the sample was spread uniformly onto the transpore tape.
  • the sample thus spread on the tape was dried under ambient condition (about 25 °C) for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, the sample was exposed to solar light simulator (Suntest CPS ++) and the intensity of transmitted light was collected using a detector from International light.
  • the data on the transmitted light at 420 nm for the various samples is summarised in Table 2.
  • Example A clearly had discrete yellow spots which indicated that the curcumin was difficult to mix and was present as discrete granules.
  • Table 1 indicates that the samples as per the invention which comprises water, fatty acid (at about 17%), non-ionic surfactant having HLB value in the desired range (higher than 10) along with a visible light absorber (Examples 1 to 4) provides low transmittance values which is indicative of higher visible light protection. This is in comparison to Examples A to C which provide low visible light protection.
  • Examples D, E and 5 to 8 Compositions comprising low fatty acid base
  • composition of Table 4 The process of preparing the above composition was similar to that for composition of Table 1 .
  • Various compositions using the base composition of Table 3 with different non-ionic surfactants were prepared as shown in Table 4.
  • the compositions were tested for % transmission using a procedure as used for samples of Table 2.
  • the data on the transmitted light at 420 nm for the various samples is summarised in Table 4.
  • Example A clearly had discrete yellow spots which indicated that the curcumin was difficult to mix and was present as discrete granules.
  • Table 4 indicates that the samples as per the invention with lower amount of fatty acid (Examples 5 to 8) provides low transmittance values which is indicative of higher visible light protection in comparison to Examples D and E (outside the invention) which provide low visible light protection.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Detergent Compositions (AREA)
PCT/EP2013/063339 2012-07-09 2013-06-26 A photoprotective personal care composition WO2014009152A1 (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2015520886A JP2015522047A (ja) 2012-07-09 2013-06-26 光保護パーソナルケア組成物
CN201380036743.8A CN104411368A (zh) 2012-07-09 2013-06-26 光防护性个人护理组合物
IN5MUN2015 IN2015MN00005A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 2012-07-09 2013-06-26

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP12175520.1 2012-07-09
EP12175520 2012-07-09

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WO2014009152A1 true WO2014009152A1 (en) 2014-01-16

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JP (1) JP2015522047A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
CN (1) CN104411368A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
AR (1) AR091693A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
IN (1) IN2015MN00005A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
WO (1) WO2014009152A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

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EP3432858B1 (en) * 2016-03-21 2023-12-27 Symrise AG Non-therapeutic use of carnosines
KR102471694B1 (ko) * 2019-12-12 2022-11-29 주식회사 팜스킨 강황 추출물을 함유하는 블루라이트 차단용 조성물
KR102481576B1 (ko) * 2020-09-11 2022-12-29 주식회사 팜스킨 강황 추출물과 담팔수 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 블루라이트 차단용 화장료 조성물

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CN104411368A (zh) 2015-03-11
AR091693A1 (es) 2015-02-25
JP2015522047A (ja) 2015-08-03
IN2015MN00005A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 2015-10-16

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