WO2013131307A1 - 一种透明美容皂组合物 - Google Patents

一种透明美容皂组合物 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013131307A1
WO2013131307A1 PCT/CN2012/074069 CN2012074069W WO2013131307A1 WO 2013131307 A1 WO2013131307 A1 WO 2013131307A1 CN 2012074069 W CN2012074069 W CN 2012074069W WO 2013131307 A1 WO2013131307 A1 WO 2013131307A1
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acid
weight
composition
mixture
peg
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PCT/CN2012/074069
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
韦异
孙玲玲
王韶华
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南京华狮化工有限公司
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Publication of WO2013131307A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013131307A1/zh

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Classifications

    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D10/00Compositions of detergents, not provided for by one single preceding group
    • C11D10/04Compositions of detergents, not provided for by one single preceding group based on mixtures of surface-active non-soap compounds and soap
    • C11D10/047Compositions of detergents, not provided for by one single preceding group based on mixtures of surface-active non-soap compounds and soap based on cationic surface-active compounds and soap
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D13/00Making of soap or soap solutions in general; Apparatus therefor
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D17/00Detergent materials or soaps characterised by their shape or physical properties
    • C11D17/0095Solid transparent soaps or detergents
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/38Cationic compounds
    • C11D1/40Monoamines or polyamines; Salts thereof

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of household chemicals and relates to a transparent cosmetic soap composition. Background technique
  • “Sapon-based products” generally refer to those products whose active forms are “RC ⁇ _” anionic surfactants, and their appearance can be made into a fluid (eg soap-based cleansing lotion, soap-based shower gel, soap-based hand sanitizer) , liquid soap, etc.), paste (such as soap-based cleansing cream, soap-based shower gel, etc.), powder (soap-based cleansing flour, soap-based bath powder, laundry soap powder, etc.) and solids (such as soap, soap, transparent) Soap, beauty soap, bath soap, etc.).
  • a fluid eg soap-based cleansing lotion, soap-based shower gel, soap-based hand sanitizer
  • paste such as soap-based cleansing cream, soap-based shower gel, etc.
  • powder soap-based cleansing flour, soap-based bath powder, laundry soap powder, etc.
  • solids such as soap, soap, transparent
  • Solid soap is the most familiar type of consumer. It can be divided into: 1 "soap” mainly used for washing clothes, 2 "soap” used for washing hands or bathing, 3 “bath soap” mainly used for bathing. ", 4 is mainly used for "cosmetic soap” for cleansing, etc., and the above solid soap can be made into a transparent or opaque appearance.
  • Solid soaps have different application requirements and different requirements for their performance.
  • the main concern of consumers is their cleaning ability, and the main characteristics of "sapon-based products" are rich foam, easy to rinse, strong degreasing power, strong washing power, etc., so “soap” can be very Good cleaning power required for cleaning clothes is therefore widely used for laundry cleaning.
  • the degreasing power is too strong to cause irritation, which makes the washed skin dry and uncomfortable. Therefore, in the skin cleansing product, it is necessary to retain the "soap-based" good foam performance and easy rinsing performance.
  • to improve the shortcomings of the skin is too tight and not moisturized by the strong degreasing power.
  • the cleansing products have the highest requirements for skin feel after washing and the appearance of the product, followed by bath products.
  • a clear cosmetic soap composition comprising: The composition weight is 5.0 ° /. ⁇ 40.0°/. Fatty acid
  • composition weight is 0.0 ° /. -11. 2% base
  • An amino acid surfactant comprising from 1.0% to 15.0% by weight of the composition
  • the weight of the composition is 40.0 ° /. ⁇ 70.0°/. Crystallization aid
  • the balance is water
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition has a pH of 8.0 to 1.1, wherein the degree of neutralization of the fatty acid and the base is 90% to 100%; and the crystallization aid is an alcohol, a saccharide, a polyethylene glycol, At least one of nonylphenol ether, alkyl alcohol ether or PEG hydrogenated fat.
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition preferably comprises:
  • the weight of the composition is 10.0 ° /. ⁇ 30.0°/. Fatty acid
  • the weight of the composition is 1. 3 ° /. - 8.4% base;
  • An amino acid surfactant comprising 4.0% to 12.0% by weight of the composition
  • the weight of the composition is 50.0 ° /. ⁇ 70.0°/. Crystallization aid
  • the balance is water
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition has a pH of 9.0 to 1.1, wherein the degree of neutralization of the fatty acid and the base is 95% to 100%; and the crystallization aid is an alcohol, a saccharide, a polyethylene glycol, At least one of nonylphenol ether, alkyl alcohol ether or PEG hydrogenated fat.
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition further preferably comprises:
  • composition weight is from 1.7% to 5.6 ° /.
  • An amino acid surfactant comprising from 5.0% to 10.0% by weight of the composition
  • the weight of the composition is 55.0 ° /. ⁇ 65.0°/. Crystallization aid
  • the balance is water
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition has a pH of 9.0-10.0, wherein the degree of neutralization of the fatty acid and the base is 100%;
  • the crystallization aid is at least one of an alcohol, a saccharide, a polyethylene glycol, a nonylphenol ether, an alkyl alcohol ether or a PEG hydrogenated fat.
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition of the present invention provides a foam-rich, mild, skin-feeling moisturizing property with good transparency. Such properties are provided by the composition rather than one of the components of the composition.
  • Such compositions include basic The components, the contents defined in the present invention, and any additional or optional components or defined features, consist of or consist essentially of them.
  • such a composition comprising a soap base, an amino acid surfactant, a crystallization aid, and water, an amino acid surfactant, can better reduce the degreasing power of the formulation, increase the mildness of the formulation, and improve the foam of the formulation.
  • the performance and feeling of use are very important for the formulation to have a good foam and to obtain a skin feel after drying without being tight.
  • the addition of a crystallization aid plays a very important role in the transparency of the formulation, while also providing a good moisturizing property to the formulation.
  • the essential components of the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention include soap bases, amino acid surfactants, crystallization aids, and aqueous carriers, each of which is described in detail below.
  • a soap base A soap base
  • the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention comprise from 5.0% to 51.2% by weight of the composition of the soap-based component suitable for application to the skin.
  • the soap-based component consists of from 5.0% to 40.0% by weight of the composition of the fatty acid suitable for application to the skin and from 0.0% to 1.2% by weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the base is determined by the degree of neutralization of the fatty acid. This section focuses on a detailed description of fatty acids, bases, and neutralization.
  • the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention comprise from 5.0% to 40.0%, preferably from 10.0% to 30.0%, more preferably from 12.0% to 20.0% by weight of the composition of fatty acids suitable for application to the skin.
  • the fatty acid is a composition of a fatty acid composition which imparts the desired foam, hardness, appearance, cleansing power and skin feel to the clear cosmetic soap composition of the present invention, and most preferably, it further comprises a composition.
  • the fatty acid content of 12.0%-20.0% by weight is much lower than the conventional fatty acid content of ordinary transparent soap (usually more than 70%), which reduces the degreasing power of the transparent soap while ensuring good cleaning power, and helps to reduce the transparent cosmetic soap. After washing, it is dry and tight to use.
  • fatty acids suitable for the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to: caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, octadecanoic acid or both thereof Kind or a mixture of two or more.
  • the application properties of different fatty acids are mainly in terms of irritation, cleansing power, degreasing power, foam properties (including foam size, uniformity, elasticity, foam stability, etc.), formulation hardness, appearance, and skin feel after washing. Differences. For example, the foam produced by fatty acids is getting smaller and smaller as the molecular weight of fatty acids increases, and the foam is more and more stable, but the foam is more difficult to produce, and the irritancy also increases with the molecular weight of fatty acids.
  • the proportion of ⁇ crystal form in soap increases with the increase of the chain length of the hydrophobic group.
  • the ⁇ crystal form content is less than 30% (mass percentage), carbon atom.
  • the number is 13 to 15
  • the ⁇ crystal form reaches 50% (mass percentage)
  • the number of carbon atoms is 16 to 19
  • the ⁇ crystal form content can reach 60% (mass%). Therefore, the C 12 -C 18 alkyl fatty acid soap in the saturated fatty acid is easily transparent, and the longer the carbon chain, the more transparent it is.
  • Table 1 lists the relationship between the crystal structure and chemical composition of the soap.
  • the fatty acids preferably used in the transparent cosmetic soap composition of the present invention are lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, taking into consideration factors such as transparency, foaming, irritation, degreasing power, formulation hardness, and skin feel after washing. At least one of palmitic acid and octadecanoic acid, preferably a mixture of lauric acid, myristic acid, and stearic acid.
  • the purity of the lauric acid is preferably from 80% to 100%, further preferably from 90% to 100%, most preferably from 95% to 100%.
  • the purity of the myristic acid is preferably from 80% to 100%, more preferably 90%. - 100°/. , most preferably 95°/. - 100%.
  • the stearic acid in the present invention is a mixture of palmitic acid and octadecanoic acid, preferably a mixture of palmitic acid: octadecanoic acid in a mass ratio of 10 to 80: 90-20, more preferably ten.
  • the hexadecanic acid: octadecanoic acid has a mass ratio of 40 to 80: 60-20, and most preferably a mixture of palmitic acid: octadecanoic acid in a mass ratio of 60 to 80: 40 to 20.
  • the stearic acid may be a commercially available product, such as the trade name Edernor ST05M (purchased from Corning Chemical).
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition of the present invention has a soap-based component obtained by reacting a fatty acid with a base, and conforms to the following reaction formula (I):
  • MOH is an alkali
  • Different bases have an effect on the hardness, foam, appearance and skin feel of the soap base.
  • Specific examples of preferred bases include, but are not limited to, KOH, Na ⁇ H, NH 4 ⁇ H, triethanolamine (TEA), or mixtures thereof, more preferably Na ⁇ H, K ⁇ H, or mixtures thereof, Preferred is Na ⁇ H.
  • the amount of the base, in addition to the degree of neutralization, is also related to the purity of the base.
  • the purity of the base is preferably > 85%, more preferably > 90%, and most preferably > 95%.
  • Alkali is very easy to absorb moisture. In particular, it is desirable to determine the purity of the base for each use.
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition of the present invention has a soap-based component obtained by reacting a fatty acid with a base.
  • the amount of the base is determined by the preferred degree of neutralization.
  • the degree of neutralization satisfies the following formula (ll).
  • the degree of neutralization defines the amount of fatty acid involved in the saponification reaction.
  • the soap-based system consists of the only component, the fatty acid soap, which is an anionic surfactant.
  • the degree of neutralization is less than 100%, some of the fatty acids fail to participate in the saponification reaction, and the soap base is composed of a fatty acid soap (which is an anionic surfactant) and a free fatty acid (which belongs to a fat) which does not participate in the saponification reaction.
  • Free fatty acid has an effect on the foam, skin feel, system stability, production process, hardness and transparency of the transparent cosmetic soap.
  • the degree of neutralization of the fatty acid in the transparent cosmetic soap composition suitable for the present invention is preferably in the range of 90% to 100%, more preferably in consideration of system stability, hardness, appearance, skin feel, irritation, degreasing power and the like. 95%-100%, the last preference is 100%.
  • pH is another key indicator of the soap-based component and is directly related to the amount of base used and the degree of neutralization. It is the main criterion for quality control in the production of transparent beauty soap.
  • the pH of the clear cosmetic soap composition suitable for the present invention is preferably 8.0 to 1.1, more preferably 9.0 to 1.1, and particularly preferably 9.0-10.0.
  • the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention comprise from 1.0% to 15.0%, preferably from 4.0% to 12.0%, more preferably from 5.0% to 10.0% by weight of the composition of an amino acid surfactant suitable for application to the skin.
  • the amino acid surfactant can impart rich foaming performance, low degreasing power and mildness to the transparent cosmetic soap composition of the present invention, and has a very good feeling of providing a non-drying and non-tightening after washing. Important role. At the same time, its usage has an impact on the above effects.
  • the amino acid surfactant can be used within the pH range used in the clear cosmetic soaps of the present invention and is physically and chemically compatible with the soap-based components of the compositions within this pH range.
  • amino acid surfactants which are suitable for use in the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention are primarily referred to as N-fatty amido salts.
  • Such surfactants are derivatives of amino acids which are obtained by fatty acid chloride acylation.
  • Non-limiting examples of such amino acids include: sarcosine, glycine, glutamic acid, taurine, alanine, threonine, preferably sarcosine, glycine and glutamic acid.
  • RC ⁇ is a fatty acid residue
  • the applicable fatty acid may be selected from natural sources such as coconut oil, palm oil, safflower
  • a suitable carbon chain is a c 8 -c 22 fatty acid, preferably a c 8 -c 18 fatty acid
  • the carbon chain composition may be a single carbon chain or a mixed carbon chain. It is known from other published patents that carbon chains have an effect on the foam properties and hardness of clear cosmetic soaps.
  • M+ is hydrogen (acid form) or cationic (salt form) such as K+, Na+, NH 4 +, TEA+.
  • Non-limiting examples of N-fatty acid amino acid salts include: sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, triethanolamine lauroyl sarcosine, sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, cocoyl Glycine triethanolamine, sodium cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, cocoyl glutamic acid triethanolamine, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, myristoyl glutamic acid triethanolamine, or a mixture thereof, Preferred is sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, more preferably sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, Finally, preferably potassium cocoyl glycinate (e.g., a chemical product derived from the lion, trade name Eversoft TM YCK-
  • the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention comprise from 40% to 70%, preferably from 50% to 70%, and more preferably from 55% to 65% by weight of the composition of a crystallization aid suitable for application to the skin.
  • a crystallization aid plays a very important role in obtaining a transparent, pure and beautiful appearance, while also imparting a moisturizing effect to the product.
  • the crystallization aid can be used within the pH range used in the clear cosmetic soaps of the present invention and is physically and chemically compatible with the other essential components of the composition within this pH range.
  • the saponification reaction of a fatty acid with a base makes it easier to obtain a sodium (or potassium) soap compound having a large crystal grain size and a complicated crystal structure, which is disadvantageous for obtaining good transparency of the transparent soap.
  • Appropriate crystallization aids must be selected to eliminate the large particles of soap-based compound molecules, promote the formation of ⁇ -forms in the soap base and inhibit the formation of other crystal forms, while preventing the increase of ⁇ crystal form and maintaining the smallest crystal grains.
  • the crystal grains are arranged neatly in order to obtain good transparency of the system.
  • crystallization aids described in the transparent cosmetic soap compositions suitable for use in the present invention are primarily compounds having one or more - ⁇ or - ⁇ - groups in the structure, which may be insoluble with water or other substances (especially water). Hydrogen bond formation in aqueous media, increasing the solubility of other substances in water and changing their binding in water.
  • suitable crystallization aids include: alcohols, sugars, polyethylene glycols, nonylphenol ethers, alkyl alcohol ethers, PEG hydrogenated fats, or mixtures thereof, preferably alcohols, sugars, PEG Hydrogenated fats and oils, or mixtures thereof, more preferably mixtures of alcohols, sugars, PEG hydrogenated fats and oils.
  • the alcohol refers to a monohydric alcohol, a dihydric alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and suitable examples include, but are not limited to: ethanol, ethylene glycol, glycerin, isopropanol, 1,2- One or more of propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, hexanediol, sorbitol, citronellol; preferably one or more of ethanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin; more preferably ethanol 1,2-propanediol, Gan a mixture of oils.
  • the weight of the crystallization aid is 30% to 40°/. .
  • Suitable examples of the saccharide include, but are not limited to, one or more of white sugar, rock sugar, brown sugar, brown sugar, glucose, honey, xylitol, preferably one or more of rock sugar, honey, and white sugar. More preferably, it is one of rock sugar, white sugar or a mixture of both. Preferably, the mixture comprises from 30% to 40% by weight of the crystallization aid.
  • the PEG hydrogenated fat mainly referred to as PEG hydrogenated castor oil
  • suitable examples include, but are not limited to: one or more of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil trade name Cremopher ® RH40 (available from BASF Corporation)
  • PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil trade name Cremopher ® RH60 (available from BASF Corporation).
  • the mixture comprises from 30% to 40% by weight of the crystallization aid.
  • the crystallization aid suitable for use in the clear cosmetic soap composition of the present invention consists of one or more of the above mixtures, preferably two mixtures, more preferably three mixtures.
  • the crystallization aid will exhibit a transparent state when its amount and ratio are balanced with the distribution of water and ⁇ -form soap-based molecules, but if the distribution is unbalanced, the transparency will gradually decrease or even disappear.
  • the key factor affecting the balance is the amount of crystallization aid and the proportion of each component in the crystallization aid, so strict control of the amount and ratio of the preferred components is necessary.
  • the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention also include additional additional optional ingredients known or effective for use on the skin.
  • the weight of such optional components is from 0.0% to 15.0% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.01% to 10.0%, more preferably from about 0.1% to 4.0%.
  • Such optional components should be compatible with the essential components of the composition of the present invention in physical and chemical properties and should not adversely affect the hardness, foam, stability, appearance, etc. of the clear cosmetic soap, and Should meet the requirements of cosmetic hygiene regulations.
  • Non-limiting examples of optional components for use in the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention include: skin feel improvers, flavors, preservatives (such as DMDM hydantoin), pigments, active ingredients (eg, heat sensitizers, Cooling agents, fungicides, vitamins and derivatives thereof, anti-allergic agents, UV absorbers, plant extracts, etc.
  • Non-limiting examples of the skin feel improving agent include: plant-derived substances such as tea oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, white mango seed oil, and the like.
  • the amino acid cosmetic soap composition of the present invention is supplemented with water to the required amount in addition to the above components.
  • the properly selected amino acid surfactant of the invention has very good foaming, mildness and moisturizing feeling, and the transparent cosmetic soap has great improvement in foaming, skin feeling and irritation, and gives a transparent cosmetic soap very good. Foaming, mildness and a good skin feel after not being dry and not tight after washing.
  • the appropriately selected crystallization aid of the present invention provides a good balance between the distribution of water and the ⁇ -form soap-based molecules, thereby giving the system the desired transparency.
  • the clear cosmetic soap composition of the present invention has a rich lather, a mild moisturizing after-washing skin and good transparency.
  • the transparent cosmetic soap composition of the present invention can be used for facial cleansing and body cleansing, and is used in a conventional manner for cleansing the skin.
  • the specific steps are as follows:
  • (B) Directly wipe the transparent cosmetic soap on various parts of the body to obtain an effective amount of soap.
  • the number of wipings is usually from 1 to 10 times, preferably from 2 to 5 times.
  • the effective amount is usually in the range of from about 0.1 g to 15 g, preferably from about 1.0 g to 5.0 g;
  • the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention can be prepared by any of the known or otherwise effective techniques suitable for providing clear soap compositions.
  • the method of preparing the clear cosmetic soap compositions of the present invention primarily employs a casting process. Specific real fc ⁇ :
  • phase A (composed of fatty acid, amino acid surfactant and alcohol) to the reaction kettle and heat to 65 ° C -70 ° C;
  • phase B (composed of alkali and water) to the reaction kettle and stir for 30 minutes to 40 minutes;
  • phase C (composed of sugar, PEG hydrogenated castor oil), heat to 8CTC-85 V, and stir for 30 minutes -40 minutes;
  • phase D When the temperature drops to 40 °C ⁇ 50 °C, add phase D, stir evenly, then keep warm and let stand;
  • PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 10.0 10.0 10.0 20.0
  • Glycerin 15.0 15.0 12.0 12.0
  • the stearic acid used in the above formulation is a commercially available product under the trade name Edernor ST05M (purchased from Corning Chemical).
  • Application evaluation includes appearance evaluation and use feeling evaluation.
  • Examples I-VIII and Comparative Examples I-IV Thirty testers (15 males and 15 years old, aged 55 years) were selected and blinded to Examples I-VIII and Comparative Examples I-IV. Each of the examples and the comparative examples were measured in parallel three times.
  • the testers scored according to their own application feelings, and the evaluation items involved foam richness, skin feel after washing (mild, moisturized, not dry and not tight, etc.) and transparency.
  • the scoring standard is based on a 5-point scale, with 1 being the worst and 5 being the best.
  • the evaluation result is the average score of all testers' scores, and the higher the average score, the better the effect.
  • the method of appearance evaluation is as follows: When passing through a 6.35 mm (1 / 4 inch) thick soap bar, it can be seen that the transparency of the 14th (4 mm) blackface is acceptable; on the contrary, it cannot be seen but has a certain transparency. Failed; completely opaque, with no transparency; when passing a 6.35 mm (1 / 4 inch) thick bar, it can be seen that the darkness of the 12-faced soap is medium; when passing 6.35 mm (1 / 4 inch) thick The soap bar can see the transparency of the black body on the 10th.
  • the method for evaluating the feeling of use is: moisturizing the face and hands with water; taking a transparent cosmetic soap and wiping it 10 times on the hand, dropping 2.0g water in the palm of your hand, rub your hands to produce a lot of foam; gently wash and massage your hands with a lot of foam on your face; finally rinse your face with water.

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Abstract

提供一种透明美容皂组合物,包含:5.0%〜40.0%的脂肪酸;0.0-11.2%的碱;1.0-15.0%的氨基酸表面活性剂;40.0-70.0%的结晶助剂;余量为水;所述透明美容皂的pH值为8.0-11.0,其中脂肪酸与碱的中和度为90%-100%;所述的结晶助剂为醇类、糖类、PEG氢化油脂中的至少一种。所选择的氨基酸表面活性剂,具有好的泡沫性、温和性和滋润感,使透明美容皂的泡沫、洗后肤感和刺激性得到改善,赋予透明美容皂好的泡沫性、温和性和洗后不干燥不紧绑的肤感。

Description

一种透明美容皂组合物
技术领域
本发明属于日用化学品领域, 涉及一种透明美容皂组合物。 背景技术
"皂基产品"通常是指那些主体表活为" RC〇〇_"类阴离子表面活性剂的产品, 其外观可以做 成流体状 (如皂基洁面乳, 皂基沐浴露, 皂基洗手液, 液体皂等), 膏状 (如皂基洁面膏, 皂 基沐浴膏等), 粉末状 (皂基洁面粉, 皂基沐浴粉, 洗衣皂粉等) 和固体状 (如肥皂, 香皂, 透明皂, 美容皂, 沐浴皂等) 等。
固体皂是最为消费者熟悉的类型, 按使用对象不同可以分为: ①主要用于衣物清洗的"肥 皂",②主要用于洗手或沐浴的"香皂",③主要用于沐浴的"沐浴皂",④主要用于洁面的"美容皂" 等, 以上固体皂均可做成透明的或不透明的外观。
固体皂应用对象不同, 对其使用性能的要求也不同。如作为衣物清洁, 消费者主要关注的 是其清洁能力, 而"皂基产品"的主要特点就是具有丰富的泡沫、 容易冲洗干净、 脱脂力强、 净 洗力强等, 故"肥皂"可以非常好的提供衣物清洁所需的清洁力, 因此被广泛用于衣物清洗。 但 在皮肤清洁中, 脱脂力太强容易带来刺激性, 使洗后的皮肤干涩紧绷不舒服, 因此, 皮肤清洁 产品中, 需要在保留"皂基"良好泡沫性能和易冲洗性能的同时, 改善其脱脂力太强所带来的皮 肤干涩紧绷不滋润的缺点。在洗手、沐浴和洁面三种类型皮肤清洁产品中, 洁面产品对洗后肤 感和产品外观形态的要求是最高的, 其次是沐浴产品。
"透明沐浴皂 "或"透明美容皂"具有晶莹多姿的外观, 越来越受到消费者的欢迎。 但如何保 证产品外观的透明度以及用后不干燥不紧绷的良好肤感,一直是该类产品在配方开发时的研究 重点和技术难点。 发明内容
本发明的目的是针对现有技术的上述不足, 提供一种透明美容皂组合物。
本发明的目的可通过如下技术方案实现:
一种透明美容皂组合物, 该组合物包含: 占组合物重量 5.0°/。~40.0°/。的脂肪酸;
占组合物重量 0.0°/。-11 .2%的碱;
占组合物重量 1 .0%~15.0%的氨基酸表面活性剂;
占组合物重量 40.0°/。~70.0°/。的结晶助剂;
余量为水;
所述透明美容皂组合物的 pH值为 8.0-11 .0, 其中脂肪酸与碱的中和度为 90%-100%; 所述的结晶助剂为醇类, 糖类, 聚乙二醇, 壬基酚醚, 烷基醇醚或 PEG氢化油脂中的至少一 种。
所述的透明美容皂组合物, 优选包含:
占组合物重量 10.0°/。~30.0°/。的脂肪酸;
占组合物重量 1 .3°/。-8.4%的碱;
占组合物重量 4.0%~12.0%的氨基酸表面活性剂;
占组合物重量 50.0°/。~70.0°/。的结晶助剂;
余量为水;
所述透明美容皂组合物的 pH值为 9.0-11 .0, 其中脂肪酸与碱的中和度为 95%-100%; 所述的结晶助剂为醇类, 糖类, 聚乙二醇, 壬基酚醚, 烷基醇醚或 PEG氢化油脂中的至少一 种。
所述的透明美容皂组合物, 进一步优选包含:
占组合物重量 12.0%~20.0%的脂肪酸;
占组合物重量 1 .7%-5.6°/。的碱;
占组合物重量 5.0%~10.0%的氨基酸表面活性剂;
占组合物重量 55.0°/。~65.0°/。的结晶助剂;
余量为水;
所述透明美容皂组合物的 pH值为 9.0-10.0, 其中脂肪酸与碱的中和度为 100%;
所述的结晶助剂为醇类, 糖类, 聚乙二醇, 壬基酚醚, 烷基醇醚或 PEG氢化油脂中的至少一 种。
发明详述
本发明涉及的透明美容皂组合物提供了泡沫丰富, 温和, 洗后肤感滋润的性能, 并具有良 好的透明度。这样的性能是由组合物而非组合物中某一种组分提供的。这样的组合物包括基本 组分, 本发明中限定的内容, 以及任何附加或任选的组分或限定的特征, 或者由它们组成或基 本由它们组成。
特别是, 这样的组合物, 包含皂基、 氨基酸表面活性剂、 结晶助剂和水, 氨基酸表面活性 剂的添加, 可以较好的降低配方的脱脂力, 增加配方的温和性, 改善配方的泡沫性能和使用感 觉, 对配方具有良好泡沫、 获得不干燥不紧绷的洗后肤感是非常重要的。 结晶助剂的加入, 对 配方的透明度起到非常重要的作用, 同时也给配方提供了良好的保湿性。
本发明涉及的透明美容皂组合物的基本组分, 以及附加的或可任选加入的组分、使用方法 和生产工艺均在下文中进行了详细的描述。
1 基本组分
本发明的透明美容皂组合物的基本组分包括皂基、氨基酸表面活性剂、结晶助剂和含水载 体, 这些组分中的每一种都在下文进行了详细描述。
A皂基
本发明的透明美容皂组合物包括占组合物重量 5.0%至 51 .2%的适合于应用在皮肤上的皂 基组分。 所述的皂基组分由占组合物重量 5.0%-40.0%的适合于应用在皮肤上的脂肪酸与占组 合物重量 0.0%-11 .2%的碱组成。 所述碱的用量由脂肪酸的中和度决定。 本部分内容主要涉及 对脂肪酸、 碱和中和度的详细描述。
A1 脂肪酸
本发明所述的透明美容皂组合物包括占组合物重量 5.0%至 40.0%,优选 10.0%-30.0%, 进一步优选 12.0%-20.0%的适合于应用在皮肤上的脂肪酸。 所述脂肪酸为脂肪酸的组合物, 该脂肪酸组合物可赋予本发明的透明美容皂组合物所需的泡沫、 硬度、 外观、 清洁力和肤感, 最主要的是, 其进一步优选的占组合物重量 12.0%-20.0%的脂肪酸含量大大低于普通透明皂 常规的脂肪酸含量 (通常大于 70%), 在保证了良好清洁力的同时, 降低了透明皂的脱脂力, 有助于降低透明美容皂洗后干燥紧绷的使用感觉。
适合于本发明的透明美容皂组合物的脂肪酸的实例包括但不限于: 辛酸, 癸酸, 月桂酸, 肉豆蔻酸, 棕榈酸, 硬脂酸, 十六烷酸、 十八烷酸或其两种或两种以上的混合物。
不同的脂肪酸所提供的应用性能主要在刺激性、 清洁力、 脱脂力、 泡沫性能(包括泡沫的 大小、 均匀度、 弹性、 稳泡性等)、 配方硬度、 外观、 洗后肤感等方面表现出差异性。 如, ① 脂肪酸所产生的泡沫随着脂肪酸分子量的增大而越来越细小, 同时泡沫也越来越稳定,但是泡 沫生成的难度也越来越大, 同时刺激性也随脂肪酸分子量的增大而减弱, 如月桂酸产生的泡沫 最大, 也最易消失, 刺激性较大, 十八烷酸产生的泡沫细小而持久, 同时比较温和; ②高分子 量的脂肪酸可以给配方提供较高的硬度; ③脂肪酸皂具有多晶现象, 其微结构中主要存在 CU β、 δ、 ω等晶型, 而 α晶型和 δ晶型不稳定, 容易转变为 β晶型或 ω晶型, 因此皂体实际上 主要是 β、 ω两种晶型的混合体。 而影响透明度的晶型则主要是 β晶型, 其含量越多皂体透明 度越高。 在肥皂中 β 晶型的比例随憎水基链长增加而增多, 在憎水基链含碳原子数为 8〜12 的肥皂中, β晶型含量不到 30 % (质量百分比),碳原子数为 13〜15时, β晶型达到 50 % (质 量百分比), 而当碳原子数为 1 6〜19时, β晶型含量可达到 60 % (质量百分比) 。 因此, 饱 和脂肪酸中 C12〜C18烷基脂肪酸皂易达到透明, 且碳链越长越易透明。 表 1 列出了是肥皂晶 相结构与化学组成之间的关系。
表 1 肥皂晶相结构与化学组成之间的关系
脂肪酸钠皂 脂肪酸含量 (%) β相含量 (%) ω相含量 (%)
c8 72 29 71 c9 36 26 74
Figure imgf000005_0001
综合考虑透明度、 泡沫、 刺激性、 脱脂力、 配方硬度、 洗后肤感等因素, 优选用于本发明 的透明美容皂组合物中的脂肪酸为月桂酸, 肉豆蔻酸, 棕榈酸, 硬脂酸, 十六烷酸、 十八烷酸 中的至少一种, 优选月桂酸, 肉豆蔻酸, 硬脂酸的混合物。 所述脂肪酸混合物优选的重量比为 月桂酸: 肉豆蔻酸:硬脂酸 =0~1 : 1 ~3: 1 ~6, 进一步优选为 0.5~1 : 1 -2.5: 2~5, 最优选为 1 : 1 ~2: 2~4。 所述月桂酸的纯度优选 80%-100%, 进一步优选 90%-100%, 最优选 95%-100%。 所述肉豆蔻酸的纯度优选 80%-100%, 更优选 90°/。- 100°/。, 最优选 95°/。- 100%。 本发明中所述硬脂酸, 是十六烷酸和十八烷酸的混合物,优选十六烷酸:十八烷酸的质量比例 为 10~80: 90-20的混合物, 更优选为十六烷酸:十八烷酸的质量比例为 40~80: 60-20的 混合物, 最优选为十六烷酸:十八烷酸的质量比例为 60~80 : 40~20的混合物。 所述硬脂酸, 可为市售产品, 如商品名为 Edernor ST05M (购自科宁化工)。
A2 碱
本发明的透明美容皂组合物,其皂基组分由脂肪酸与碱反应得到,符合如下反应通式(I ):
0 0
II 中和反应 II
R— C— OH + MOH ― R— C ~ OM + H20
其中, MOH为碱。
不同的碱, 对皂基的硬度、 泡沫、 外观、 肤感均有影响。 优选的碱的具体实例, 包括但不 限于: KOH 、 Na〇H、 NH4〇H、 三乙醇胺 (TEA), 或它们的混合物, 更优选 Na〇H 、 K〇H, 或它们的混合物, 特别优选的是 Na〇H。
所述碱的用量, 除与中和度有关外, 还与碱的纯度有关。 所述碱的纯度优选〉 85%, 更优 选〉 90%, 最优选〉95%。 碱非常容易吸潮, 特别指出的是, 希望每次使用, 均能较好的测定 碱的纯度。
A3 中和度
本发明的透明美容皂组合物, 其皂基组分由脂肪酸与碱反应得到。所述碱的用量, 由优选 的中和度决定。 所述中和度满足下述通式 (ll )。 中和度规定了脂肪酸参与皂化反应的数量。
^ ^ 碱的用量 X碱的纯度
中禾口 ―
脂肪酸用量 X脂肪酸的酸值
中和度为 100%时, 所有脂肪酸均参与皂化反应, 皂基体系由唯一组分, 即脂肪酸皂这种 阴离子表面活性剂构成。 中和度不到 100%时, 为有部分脂肪酸未能参与皂化反应, 皂基由脂 肪酸皂(属于阴离子表面活性剂)和未参与皂化反应的游离脂肪酸(属于油脂)组成。 游离脂 肪酸对透明美容皂的泡沫、 肤感、 体系稳定性、 生产工艺过程、 硬度、 透明度等均产生影响。
兼顾体系稳定性, 硬度, 外观, 肤感, 刺激性, 脱脂力等等因素, 适合于本发明的透明美 容皂组合物中脂肪酸的中和度的范围优选为 90%-100%, 更优选为 95%-100%, 最后优选为 100%。
特别的, pH值是皂基组分的另一关键指标, 与碱的用量及中和度直接关联。是透明美容 皂生产时质量控制的主要判据。 适合于本发明的透明美容皂组合物的 pH值优选为 8.0-11 .0, 更优选为 9.0-11 .0, 特别优选为 9.0-10.0。
B氨基酸表面活性剂
本发明的透明美容皂组合物包括占组合物重量 1 .0%至 15.0%, 优选 4.0%至 12.0%, 进 一步优选 5.0%至 10.0%的适合于应用在皮肤上的氨基酸表面活性剂。 该氨基酸表面活性剂能 给本发明的透明美容皂组合物带来丰富的泡沫性能、较低的脱脂力和温和性,对提供本发明所 述的不干燥不紧绷的洗后肤感具有非常重要的作用。 同时其使用量对上述效果的发挥有影响。 该氨基酸表面活性剂, 可以在本发明的透明美容皂使用的 pH值范围内使用, 并在该 pH值范 围内与该组合物的皂基组分在物理性质和化学性质上相容。
适用于本发明的透明美容皂组合物中所述氨基酸表面活性剂, 主要指的是 N-脂肪酰氨基 酸盐。 该类表面活性剂是氨基酸的衍生物, 通过脂肪酰氯酰化得到。
所述氨基酸的非限定性实例包括: 肌氨酸, 甘氨酸, 谷氨酸, 牛磺酸, 丙氨酸, 苏氨酸, 优选肌氨酸, 甘氨酸和谷氨酸。
优选的 N-脂肪酰甘氨酸衍生物, 其结构符合以下通式 (III )
〇 〇
II II
R-C-NH-CH2-C-0"M+
优选的 N-脂肪酰肌氨酸衍生物, 其结构符合以下通式 (IV)
〇 〇
II I I
R-C-N— CH2-C-0"M+
CH3
( IV)
优选的 N-脂肪酰谷氨酸衍生物, 其结构符合以下通式 (V)
〇 〇
II I I
R-C-NH-CH-C-0"M+
CH2CH2C〇〇H
(V)
其中, RC〇一为脂肪酸残基, 适用的脂肪酸可选自天然来源, 如椰子油, 棕榈油, 红花 油, 橄榄油, 或合成来源, 适合的碳链为 c8-c22的脂肪酸, 优选为 c8-c18的脂肪酸, 其碳链 组成可为单一碳链, 也可为混合碳链。从其他已公开的专利知道, 碳链对透明美容皂的泡沫性 质和硬度有影响。
M+是氢 (酸形式) 或阳离子类 (盐形式) 如 K+, Na+, NH4+, TEA+。
N -脂肪酰氨基酸盐的非限定性实例包括: 月桂酰肌氨酸钠, 月桂酰肌氨酸钾, 月桂酰肌 氨酸三乙醇胺,椰油酰甘氨酸钠,椰油酰甘氨酸钾,椰油酰甘氨酸三乙醇胺,椰油酰谷氨酸钠, 椰油酰谷氨酸钾, 椰油酰谷氨酸三乙醇胺, 肉豆蔻酰肌氨酸钠, 肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸三乙醇胺, 或 其混合物, 优选月桂酰肌氨酸钠, 椰油酰甘氨酸钠, 椰油酰甘氨酸钾, 椰油酰谷氨酸钠, 椰油 酰谷氨酸钾, 更优选椰油酰甘氨酸钠, 椰油酰甘氨酸钾, 最后优选为椰油酰甘氨酸钾(如来自 中狮化学的产品,商品名为 EversoftTMYCK-100K, Eversoft™YCK-30K, EversoftTMYCK等)。 椰油酰甘氨酸钾具有与脂肪酸皂更类似的结构。
C结晶助剂
本发明的透明美容皂组合物包括占组合物重量 40%至 70%,优选 50%至 70%,进一步优 选 55%至 65%的适合于应用在皮肤上的结晶助剂。 结晶助剂的加入对产品获得透明、 纯净美 丽的外观有非常重要的作用, 同时还可赋予产品保湿功效。该结晶助剂, 可以在本发明的透明 美容皂使用的 pH值范围内使用, 并在该 pH值范围内与该组合物的其他基本组分在物理性质 和化学性质上相容。
脂肪酸与碱发生皂化反应, 更容易得到的是脂肪酸钠(或钾)皂化合物, 这种化合物晶体 颗粒大, 晶体结构复杂, 对透明皂获得良好的透明度是不利的。 必须选择适当的结晶助剂, 来 消除大颗粒的皂基化合物分子, 促进皂基中 β晶型的形成而抑制其他晶型的形成, 同时阻止 β 晶型增大, 维持最小的晶粒, 使晶粒整齐排列析出, 才能使体系获得良好的透明度。
适用于本发明的透明美容皂组合物中所述的结晶助剂,主要是结构中含有一个或多个 -〇Η 或 -〇-基团的化合物, 可以与水或其他物质 (特别是水不溶物) 在水介质中形成氢键结合, 增 加其他物质在水中的溶解度, 改变其在水中的结合力。 适合的结晶助剂的非限定性实例包括: 醇类, 糖类, 聚乙二醇, 壬基酚醚, 烷基醇醚, PEG 氢化油脂, 或其混合物等, 优选醇类, 糖类, PEG氢化油脂, 或其混合物, 更优选醇类, 糖类, PEG氢化油脂的混合物。
所述的醇类, 是指碳原子数为 1 ~10的一元醇、 二元醇或多元醇, 适合的实例包括但不限 于: 乙醇、 乙二醇、 甘油、 异丙醇、 1 ,2-丙二醇、 1 ,4-丁二醇、 己二醇、 山梨醇, 香茅醇中的 一种或多种; 优选乙醇、 1 ,2-丙二醇、 甘油中的一种或多种; 更优选为乙醇、 1 ,2-丙二醇、 甘 油的混合物。 优选的乙醇、 1 ,2-丙二醇、 甘油混合物的重量比为乙醇: 1 ,2-丙二醇:甘油 =0.5-1 .0: 0.5-1 .0: 0.5-1 .0; 优选的该混合物的重量占结晶助剂重量 30%至 40°/。。
所述的糖类, 适合的实例包括但不限于: 白糖、 冰糖、 黄糖, 红糖、 葡萄糖、 蜂蜜、 木糖 醇中的一种或多种, 优选冰糖、 蜂蜜、 白糖中的一种或多种, 更优选为冰糖、 白糖中的一种或 两者的混合物。 优选的该混合物的重量占结晶助剂重量 30%至 40%。
所述的 PEG氢化油脂,主要指的是 PEG氢化蓖麻油,适合的实例包括但不限于: PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油、 PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、 PEG-80氢化蓖麻油中的一种或多种, 优选为 PEG-40氢 化蓖麻油、 PEG-60氢化蓖麻油中的一种或两者的混合物。 所述 PEG-40氢化蓖麻油, 商品名 为 Cremopher ®RH40 (购自 BASF公司), 所述 PEG-60氢化蓖麻油, 商品名为 Cremopher ®RH60 (购自 BASF公司)。 优选的该混合物的重量占结晶助剂重量 30%至 40%。
适合于本发明的透明美容皂组合物中的结晶助剂, 由上述混合物一种或几种组成,优选两 种混合物组成, 更优选为三种混合物组成。
所述结晶助剂, 当其用量和配比与水、 β晶型的皂基分子之间的分布达到平衡时, 便会呈 现出透明状态, 但若其分布不平衡时, 透明度会逐渐下降甚至消失。影响平衡的关键因素是结 晶助剂的用量和结晶助剂中各组分的比例,因此对优选的各组分的用量和比例严格控制是必须 的。
2任选组分
本发明的透明美容皂组合物在一些实施方案中, 还包括已知或有效的适合在皮肤上使用 的附加的其他任选组分。 这种任选组分的重量占组合物重量的 0.0%至 15.0%, 优选的是约 0.01 %至 10.0%, 更优选的是约 0.1 %至 4.0%。 这种任选的组分, 应该与本发明的组合物的基 本组分在物理性质和化学性质上相容, 不应该对透明美容皂的硬度, 泡沫, 稳定性, 外观等产 生不良影响, 并应符合化妆品卫生规范的要求。
用于本发明的透明美容皂组合物中的任选组分的非限定实例包括: 肤感改善剂, 香精, 防 腐剂 (如 DMDM乙内酰脲), 颜料, 活性成分 (如热感剂, 凉感剂, 杀菌剂, 维生素及其衍 生物), 抗过敏剂, 紫外线吸收剂, 植物提取物等。
所述肤感改善剂的非限定实例包括: 植物来源的物质, 如茶油、 鳄梨油、 葡萄籽油、 红花 油、 白芒花籽油等。 本发明的氨基酸美容皂组合物中, 除了以上所述组分外, 用水补至所需量。 本发明的有益效果:
本发明恰当选择的氨基酸表面活性剂, 具有非常好的泡沫性、温和性和滋润感, 使透明美 容皂的泡沫、洗后肤感和刺激性得到极大的改善, 赋予了透明美容皂非常好的泡沫性、温和性 和洗后不干燥不紧绷的良好肤感。
本发明恰当选择的结晶助剂, 能使水和 β晶型皂基分子之间的分布达到良好的平衡状态, 从而使体系呈现出所需的透明度。
因此, 本发明透明美容皂组合物具有丰富的泡沫, 温和滋润的洗后肤以及良好的透明度。
3使用雄
本发明的透明美容皂组合物可以用于面部的清洁和身体的清洁,以常规的清洁肌肤的方式 使用, 具体步骤如下:
面部清洁:
(Α) 用水将面部和双手润湿;
( Β) 取透明美容皂在手上擦拭多次, 以获得有效量的皂体。 所述擦拭次数, 通常在 5次 至 30次, 优选 10次至 20次; 所述有效量的范围通常在 0.1克至 3克, 优选 0.3克至 2克。
(C) 滴少量水 (1.0g-5.0g ) 于手心, 双手揉搓至产生大量泡沫;
( D) 将带有大量泡沫的双手在脸上轻轻搓洗并按摩;
( E) 最后用清水冲洗干净脸上的泡沫。
身体清洁:
(A) 将身体润湿;
( B) 直接将透明美容皂在身体各部位上擦拭多次, 以获得有效量的皂体。所述擦拭次数, 通常在 1次至 10次, 优选 2次至 5次。 所述有效量的范围通常是约 0.1克至 15克, 优选为 约 1.0克至 5.0克;
(C) 直接用双手或使用沐浴用具(如搓澡巾、 沐浴海绵、 丝瓜擦、 沐浴球、 浴花、 浴刷、 按摩刷、 搓背巾、 搓澡手套、 带浴花搓澡手套、 带浴花搓澡拉背条、 长条搓背巾等)在身体各 部位上来回轻擦, 以产生泡沫同时清洁肌肤;
( D) 最后用清水冲洗干净身上的泡沫。
每次清洁面部和身体, 可以根据需要, 进行上述步骤一次或多次, 直至达到清洁要求, 优 选为一次。
上述步骤可以根据需要每天进行一次或多次, 以达到所寻求的清洁、 滋润的功效。 4制备雄
本发明的透明美容皂组合物可以通过任何已知或其他有效的适用于提供透明皂组合物的 技术制备。 制备本发明的透明美容皂组合物的方法主要采用浇注法生产技术。 具体实fc^:
下面是本发明的透明美容皂的非限定性实例。这些实例的给出仅仅是为了说明目的, 并不 能理解为对本发明的限定, 因为在不脱离本发明的精神和范围的基础上, 可以对本发明进行许 多改变。
在这些实例中, 除非特别说明, 所有浓度都是重量百分比。 所用术语"少量物质"指的是任 选的那些物质, 如防腐剂, 香精, 颜料等, 这些少量物质的选择将随着选定的用以制备本发明 特定成分的物理和化学特性而改变。 制备实施例 I-VIII和对比例 I-IV
合适的制备实例 I-VIII和对比例 I-IV中所述的透明美容皂组合物的方法如下:
1 ) 将 A相 (由脂肪酸、 氨基酸表面活性剂和醇类组成) 加入反应釜中, 加热至 65°C-70°C ;
2) 将 B相 (由碱和水组成) 加入反应釜中, 保温搅拌 30分钟 -40分钟;
3) 加入 C相 (由糖类、 PEG氢化蓖麻油组成) , 升温至 8CTC-85 V , 保温搅拌 30分钟 -40分 钟;
4) 待温度降至 40°C ~50°C时, 加入 D相, 搅拌均匀后保温静置;
5) 放料, 浇铸到模具中;
6) 冷却成型后脱模, 晾干即可。
表 2实施例 I -IV
原 料 里 里 (%)
实施例号 I II III IV 月桂酸 - - 3.0 3.0 肉豆蔻酸 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 硬脂酸 8.0 10.0 9.0 11 .0
A
椰油酰甘氨酸钾 (100%) 8.0 - 8.0 - 椰油酰甘氨酸钠 (100%) - 8.0 - 8.0
1 ,2-丙二醇 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 无水乙醇 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 甘油 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0
NaOH ( 100%) 2.3 2.5 3.0 3.3 中和度 (%) 100 100 100 100
B
pH值 (25°C ,10°/。水溶液) 9.34 9.41 9.36 9.58 去离子水 余量
白糖 15.0 23.0 - 8.0 冰糖 8.0 - 23.0 15.0
C
PEG-40氢化蓖麻油 8.0 8.0 8.0 -
PEG-60氢化蓖麻油 10.0 10.0 10.0 20.0
D 少量物质 适量 表 3实删 V-VIII
原 料 里 里 (%) 实施例号 V VI VD 月桂酸 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 肉豆蔻酸 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 硬脂酸 11 .0 11 .0 11 .0 11 .0 椰油酰甘氨酸钾 (100%) 5.0 10.0 7.0 -
A
椰油酰甘氨酸钠 (100%) - - - 7.0
1 ,2-丙二醇 7.0 7.0 8.0 8.0 无水乙醇 7.0 7.0 4.0 4.0 甘油 7.0 7.0 8.0 8.0
NaOH ( 100%) 3.12 3.3 - 3.23
KOH ( 100%) - - 4.6 -
B 中和度 (%) 95 100 100 98 pH值 (25°C ,10°/。水溶液) 9.41 9.58 9.54 9.49 去离子水 余量
C 白糖 20.0 - 10.0 10.0 冰糖 - 20.0 8.0 8.0
PEG-40氢化蓖麻油 - 20.0 9.0 9.0
PEG-60氢化蓖麻油 20.0 - 9.0 9.0
D 少量物质 适量 表 4对比例 I - IV
原 料 里 里 (%)
对比例号 I II III IV 月桂酸 3.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 肉豆蔻酸 20.0 20.0 20.0 30.0
A 硬脂酸 22.0 27.0 30.0 20.0 椰油酰甘氨酸钾 (100%) 10.0 10.0 6.0 6.0
甘油 15.0 15.0 12.0 12.0
NaOH ( 100%) 7.4 8.2 9.0 9.3
B
去离子水 余量
C 白糖 8.0
D 少量物质 适量
上述配方中使用的硬脂酸, 为市售产品, 商品名为 Edernor ST05M (购自科宁化工)。
应用评价包括外观评价和使用感评价。
选择 30名测试者 (男女各 15人, 年龄段 15岁 -55岁), 对实施例 I-VIII和对比例 I-IV进 行盲测。每个实施例和对比例平行测定 3次。测试者根据自己的应用感觉进行评分, 评价项目 涉及泡沫丰富度, 洗后肤感(温和、滋润, 不干燥不紧绷等)和透明度。评分标准采用 5分制, 1分最差, 5分最好。 评价结果为所有测试者分数的平均分, 平均分越高效果越好。
所述外观评价的方法是: 当通过 6.35 mm(1 /4英寸)厚的皂块能看清 14号 (4 mm)黑体 字的透明度为合格; 反之, 不能看清但又有一定透明度的为不合格; 完全不透明的, 透明度为 无;当通过 6.35 mm(1 /4英寸)厚的皂块能看清 12号黑体字的肥皂透明度为中等;当通过 6.35 mm(1 /4英寸)厚的皂块能看清 10号黑体字的肥皂透明度为好。
所述的使用感评价方法是: 用水将面部和双手润湿; 取透明美容皂在手上擦拭 10次, 滴 2.0g水于手心, 双手揉搓至产生大量泡沫; 将带有大量泡沫的双手在脸上轻轻搓洗并按摩; 最后用清水冲洗干净脸上的泡沫。
实施例和对比例的应用感评价结果列于表 5。
实施例和对比例应用感 结果
Figure imgf000014_0001

Claims

权利要求书
1、 一种透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于该组合物包含:
占组合物重量 5.0%~40.0%的脂肪酸;
占组合物重量 0.0%-11.2%的碱;
占组合物重量 1.0%~15.0%的氨基酸表面活性剂;
占组合物重量 40.0%~70.0%的结晶助剂;
余量为水;
所述透明美容皂组合物的 pH值为 8.0-11.0, 其中脂肪酸与碱的中和度为 90%-100%; 所述的结晶助剂为醇类, 糖类, 聚乙二醇, 壬基酚醚, 烷基醇醚或 PEG氢化油脂中的至少一 种。
2、 一种透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于该组合物包含:
占组合物重量 10.0%~30.0%的脂肪酸;
占组合物重量 1.3%-8.4%的碱;
占组合物重量 4.0%~12.0%的氨基酸表面活性剂;
占组合物重量 50.0%~70.0%的结晶助剂;
余量为水;
所述透明美容皂组合物的 pH值为 9.0-11.0, 其中脂肪酸与碱的中和度为 95%-100%; 所述的结晶助剂为醇类, 糖类, 聚乙二醇, 壬基酚醚, 烷基醇醚或 PEG氢化油脂中的至少一 种。
3、 一种透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于该组合物包含:
占组合物重量 12.0%~20.0%的脂肪酸;
占组合物重量 1.7%-5.6%的碱;
占组合物重量 5.0%~10.0%的氨基酸表面活性剂;
占组合物重量 55.0%~65.0%的结晶助剂;
余量为水;
所述透明美容皂组合物的 pH值为 9.0-10.0, 其中脂肪酸与碱的中和度为 100%;
所述的结晶助剂为醇类, 糖类, 聚乙二醇, 壬基酚醚, 烷基醇醚或 PEG氢化油脂中的至少一 种。
4、根据权利要求 1~3中任一项所述的透明美容皂组合物,其特征在于所述的脂肪酸选自辛酸, 癸酸, 月桂酸, 肉豆蔻酸, 棕榈酸, 硬脂酸, 十六烷酸、 十八烷酸中的一种或两种或两种以上 的混合物; 优选月桂酸, 肉豆蔻酸, 棕榈酸, 硬脂酸, 十六烷酸、 十八烷酸中的至少一种, 进 一步优选月桂酸, 肉豆蔻酸, 硬脂酸的混合物; 所述月桂酸, 肉豆蔻酸, 硬脂酸的混合物优选 的重量比为月桂酸: 肉豆蔻酸:硬脂酸 =0~1: 1-3: 1-6, 进一步优选为 0.5~1: 1-2.5: 2-5, 特别优选 1: 1~2: 2-4 o
5、 根据权利要求 1~3中任一项所述的透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于所述的碱选自 KOH 、 NaOH、 NH4OH、 三乙醇胺, 或它们的混合物, 优选 NaOH 、 KOH, 或其混合物, 进一步优 选 NaOH。
6、 根据权利要求 1~3中任一项所述的透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于所述的氨基酸表面活性 剂选自 N-脂肪酰氨基酸盐, 所述的 N-脂肪酰氨基酸盐为氨基酸的衍生物, 通过脂肪酰氯酰化 得到; 所述的氨基酸选自肌氨酸, 甘氨酸, 谷氨酸, 牛磺酸, 丙氨酸或苏氨酸, 优选肌氨酸, 甘氨酸或谷氨酸。
7、 根据权利要求 6所述的透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于所述的氨基酸表面活性剂选自月桂 酰肌氨酸钠, 月桂酰肌氨酸钾, 月桂酰肌氨酸三乙醇胺, 椰油酰甘氨酸钠, 椰油酰甘氨酸钾, 椰油酰甘氨酸三乙醇胺, 椰油酰谷氨酸钠, 椰油酰谷氨酸钾, 椰油酰谷氨酸三乙醇胺, 肉豆蔻 酰肌氨酸钠, 肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸三乙醇胺,或其混合物;优选月桂酰肌氨酸钠,椰油酰甘氨酸钠, 椰油酰甘氨酸钾, 椰油酰谷氨酸钠, 椰油酰谷氨酸钾, 更优选椰油酰甘氨酸钠, 椰油酰甘氨酸 钾, 或其混合物; 最后优选椰油酰甘氨酸钾。
8、根据权利要求 1~3中任一项所述的透明美容皂组合物,其特征在于所述的结晶助剂为醇类, 糖类, PEG氢化油脂, 或其混合物, 优选醇类, 糖类, PEG氢化油脂的混合物。
9、根据权利要求 8所述的透明美容皂组合物,其特征在于所述的醇类为碳原子数为 1~10的一 元醇、 二元醇或多元醇, 优选乙醇、 乙二醇、 甘油、 异丙醇、 1,2-丙二醇、 1,4-丁二醇、 己二 醇、 山梨醇, 香茅醇中的一种或多种; 进一步优选乙醇、 1,2-丙二醇、 甘油中的一种或多种; 更优选为乙醇、 1,2-丙二醇、 甘油的混合物; 所述的乙醇、 1,2-丙二醇、 甘油的混合物中三者 的重量比为乙醇: 1,2-丙二醇:甘油 =0.5~1.0: 0.5-1.0: 0.5-1.0; 所述的乙醇、 1,2-丙二醇、 甘 油混合物的重量占结晶助剂重量 30%至 40%。
10、 根据权利要求 8所述的透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于所述的糖类选自: 白糖、 冰糖、 黄 糖, 红糖、 葡萄糖、 蜂蜜、 木糖醇中的一种或多种, 优选冰糖、 蜂蜜、 白糖中的一种或多种, 更优选为冰糖、 白糖中的一种或两者的混合物; 所述的冰糖与白糖的混合物的重量占结晶助剂 重量 30%至 40%。
11、 根据权利要求 8所述的透明美容皂组合物, 其特征在于所述的 PEG氢化油脂为 PEG氢化 蓖麻油, 优选: PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、 PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、 PEG-80氢化蓖麻油中的一种或多 种, 进一步优选 PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、 PEG-60氢化蓖麻油中的一种或两者的混合物; 所述的 PEG-40氢化蓖麻油与 PEG-60氢化蓖麻油混合物的重量占结晶助剂重量 30%至 40%。
12、根据权利要求 1~3中任一项所述的透明美容皂组合物,其特征在于所述的透明美容皂组合 物中还包含占组合物重量的 0.0%至 15.0%的任选组分;所述的任选组分的用量优选占组合物重 量的 0.01%至 10.0%, 进一步优选占组合物重量的 0.1%至 4.0% ; 所述的任选组分包括: 肤感 改善剂, 香精, 防腐剂, 颜料, 活性成分, 抗过敏剂, 紫外线吸收剂或植物提取物中的一种或 多种; 所述的活性成分选自热感剂, 凉感剂, 杀菌剂, 维生素及其衍生物中的一种或多种; 所 述肤感改善剂优选植物来源的物质, 进一步优选茶油、 鳄梨油、 葡萄籽油、 红花油或白芒花籽 油中的一种或多种。
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