WO2012095410A1

WO2012095410A1 - Oily makeup-removing composition

Info

Publication number: WO2012095410A1
Application number: PCT/EP2012/050292
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne-Laure Bernard; Marine Bouvier
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-01-11
Filing date: 2012-01-10
Publication date: 2012-07-19
Also published as: FR2970177A1; JP2014502623A; KR101918314B1; KR20140053833A; JP2016135816A; FR2970177B1; JP6250401B2

Abstract

The invention relates to an oily cosmetic composition comprising: - at least one sunflower wax, - at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, and caprylic acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof, and - at least one oil. The composition may be used especially for removing makeup from the skin and/or the area around the eyes and/or from the lips.

Description

Oily makeup-removing composition

The invention relates to an oil-based cosmetic composition comprising a plant wax and a particular surfactant, especially for removing makeup or for removing makeup from the keratin materials.

Current makeup techniques are increasingly innovative and efficient, and more and more makeup product users use long-lasting products such as transfer-resistant foundations, long-lasting lipsticks, waterproof mascaras or double-action mascaras (application of a base and then of the mascara).

However, products of this type are more difficult to remove than standard makeup products, and there is consequently a need for makeup-removing products that are not only very efficient and practical to use but are also gentle to the skin, while at the same time having good cosmetic qualities (gentle and comfortable to use).

Among the makeup-removing products commonly proposed, compositions in liquid form may mainly be found, such as makeup-removing oils, which, although efficient, are difficult to remove from the skin because they rinse off poorly, and they are relatively impractical to use since there is a risk of the product running onto the hands.

It is thus sought to formulate a makeup-removing product that is both efficient on waterproof makeup products and that is in non-liquid form, practical to use and comfortable. Rinse-off oil-based makeup-removing compositions structured with waxes of petrochemical origin are known, for example.

Now, in recent years, the cosmetics market has been marked with a huge demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers are looking for formulations free of synthetic materials, over which they prefer natural compounds, of natural or certified biological origin, which are reputed for their better skin tolerance and affinity, and which are more environmentally friendly.

The term "natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration. The term "compound of natural origin" means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above.

There is thus still a need for a makeup-removing or cleansing product comprising ingredients of natural origin that show good harmlessness with respect to keratin materials, while nevertheless having the properties required for products that are both efficient on long-lasting makeups, practical to use and comfortable.

The Applicant has discovered that the combination of sunflower wax and of particular surfactants makes it possible to formulate an oil-based makeup-removing composition that is easily rinsable.

More specifically, one subject of the invention is an oily cosmetic composition comprising:

at least one sunflower wax,

at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, and caprylic acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof, and

at least one oil.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in solid form. The term "solid composition" means a composition that does not flow under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The composition according to the invention may have a hardness at 20°C ranging from 10 to 50 kPa and better still from 20 to 45 kPa.

The hardness of the composition may be measured using a TAX-T2i® Stable Micro System texturometer with a 5 kg force sensor and equipped with Texture Expert Exceed® operating software, and fitted with a No. 6 cylindrical stainless-steel spindle 6 mm in diameter. The texturometer measures the force of resistance to deformation of the composition once the spindle comes into contact with the sample. After having reached a maximum programmed depth L0 into the sample, the spindle returns to its initial position.

The hardness (expressed in grams or in newtons) is equal to the deformation resistance value of the composition when the spindle is at the end of its course.

The parameters applied are advantageously the following:

- trigger force: 100 g

- speed before contact: 0.1 mm.s^"1,

- speed of displacement into the sample: 0.1 mm.s^"1,

- maximum depth L0: 3 mm.

The composition samples are prepared in jars 9 cm in diameter.

The containers are filled with composition in an amount sufficient to overcome any edge effect, the surface of the samples being perfectly smooth and flat.

The containers are placed in a chamber thermostatically regulated at 25°C and of controlled relative humidity, and the measurements are then taken.

At least three measurements are taken in star form on the surface of the sample.

The hardness is equal to the average of the three measurements taken, taking into account the Fmax values.

A value is obtained in grams, which is converted into kPa.

The composition according to the invention is preferably anhydrous. The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, better still less than 2%, better still less than 1 % water and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be free of water.

The composition according to the invention may contain, besides the water that may be present, one or more hydrophilic solvents chosen from lower alcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; and polyols such as glycerol; glycols such as butylene glycol. The amount of hydrophilic solvent(s) in the composition is advantageously less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still less than or equal to 2% and preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight.

Wax For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C and better still greater than or equal to 45°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The sunflower wax used in the composition according to the invention advantageously has a melting point of greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 60°C and better still greater than or equal to 70°C, which may be up to 90°C.

The wax advantageously has a hardness at 20°C of greater than 5 MPa, especially ranging from 5 to 15 MPa. The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measuring protocol is as follows: the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10°C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before measuring the hardness or the tack.

The texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.1 mm/s, then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.

The hardness value is the maximum compression force measured divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax. As an example of a sunflower wax that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the wax sold under the reference Sunflower wax by the company Koster Keunen.

The sunflower wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 3% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant

The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, and caprylic acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of these nonionic surfactants may range, for example, from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even better still from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a) fatty acid esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units.

According to the present invention, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is preferably chosen from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units and preferably from 3 to 7 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

The fatty acids may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.

The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof. The fatty acid is in particular lauric acid. The fatty acid esters of polyglycerol may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. Fatty acid monoesters of polyglycerol are preferably used.

The fatty acid ester of polyglycerol may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for instance a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester; a mixture in which the monoester is predominant is preferably used.

According to one preferred embodiment, a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol chosen from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerols comprising from 3 to 7 glycerol units and in particular 5 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid, which is preferably saturated, comprising 10 to 14 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and/or capric acid, and more preferably a saturated fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid, is used. Examples that may be mentioned include the ester derived from the reaction of polyglycerol-5 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 5 glycerol units) and of lauric acid (I NCI name: polyglyceryl-5 laurate) such as the product sold by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the reference SunSoft A-121 E, the ester derived from the reaction of polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and of capric acid (I NCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as the product sold by the company Evonik under the reference Tegosoft PC 41 b) fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol. They may be chosen in particular from fatty alkyl ethers comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and of glycerol or polyglycerol, the number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 9, better still from 1 to 5 and even better still from 1 to 3. A monoether is preferably used. The fatty alcohol may be chosen from oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol.

As compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol (or 1.5 glyceryl lauryl ether) such as Chimexane NV from Chimex, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol. c) Fatty acid esters of sucrose The fatty acid esters of sucrose are preferably chosen from esters derived from the reaction of sucrose(s) (saccharose) and of fatty acids comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and even better still from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

The fatty acids containing from 10 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid and capric acid, or mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid ester of sucrose is chosen from esters derived from the reaction of sucrose and a fatty acid containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and/or palmitic acid, for instance sucrose laurate or sucrose palmitate, or a mixture thereof.

The fatty acid esters of sucrose may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. Esters with a low degree of esterification are preferably used, for instance fatty acid monoesters, diesters or triesters of sucrose, or a mixture thereof. The fatty acid ester of sucrose may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for instance a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester.

When a mixture of fatty acid esters of sucrose is used, a preferred mixture is one in which the esters with a low degree of esterification, in particular monoesters, are predominant and represent, for example, at least 50% and preferably at least 60% by weight of the mixture of fatty acid esters of sucrose. It is in particular possible to use a mixture of esters of sucrose and of fatty acids containing from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of mono-, di- and triesters of lauric acid or of palmitic acid, the said mixture possibly comprising in minor amount (in a content of less than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of fatty acid esters of sucrose) esters of sucrose and of fatty acids in which the fatty acid contains more than 16 carbon atoms.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sucrose and of fatty acid that may be mentioned include:

Surfhope SE Cosme C-1416, with an HLB value of 16, which is a sucrose myristate comprising about 80% monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di- and triesters,

Surfhope SE Cosme C-1216, the INCI name of which is sucrose laurate, with an

HLB value of 16, and which comprises about 75% to 90% monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di- and triesters,

- Surfhope SE Cosme C-1215L, the INCI name of which is sucrose laurate, with an HLB value equal to 15, comprising about 70% monoesters, the rest of the mixture being composed of diesters and other polyesters,

Surfhope SE Cosme C-1616, with an HLB value of 16, which is a mixture of esters of sucrose and of palmitic and/or stearic acid (INCI name: sucrose palmitate), comprising from 75% to 90% monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di- and triesters, and possibly comprising sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate stearate.

Mention may also be made of the ester bearing the INCI name sucrose laurate sold by the company Dai-ichi Seiyaku under the reference DK ester S-L18A, with an HLB equal to 17, comprising 70% monoesters and 30% diesters and triesters.

As examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sucrose and of fatty acid, mention may also be made of:

- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F1 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-tri ester-polyester; - the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.

According to one preferred embodiment, sucrose laurate is used. d) The oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups may be chosen from:

oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of polyols comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, in particular oxyethylenated esters of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and of glycerol, for instance oxyethylenated (20 OE) glyceryl triisostearate (I NCI name: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate),

esters of a fatty acid (especially of a C12-C30, preferably C12-C20 and better still C14-C18 acid), in particular isostearic acid or oleic acid, and of sorbitan and/or oxyethylenated sorbitol ethers comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, such as sorbitan trioleate 20 OE (I NCI name: Polysorbate 85), sorbeth-30 tetraisostearate,

esters of polyethylene glycol and/or of polypropylene glycol and of fatty acids, especially of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 18 carbon atoms such as oleic acid or isostearic acid, and comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, for instance polyethylene glycol monoisostearate (8 OE) (I NCI name: PEG-8 isostearate),

and mixtures thereof. e) The caprylic acid esters of glycerol are chosen in particular from caprylic acid monoesters and diesters and mixtures thereof (I NCI name: glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl dicaprylate). It is also possible to use a mixture of caprylic acid monoesters and diesters, in particular a mixture of caprylic acid monoesters and diesters in which the monoester is preferably predominant (content of greater than 50%). Mention may be made especially of the product sold by the company Cognis under the name Capmul MCM (INCI name: caprylic/capric glycerides), which is a mixture composed predominantly of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl dicaprylate, also comprising capric acid esters of glycerol. and mixtures thereof.

Oils The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The oils used in the composition according to the invention are different from the nonionic surfactants described above.

The amount of oils in the composition according to the invention is preferably at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight, better still at least 70% by weight and even better still at least 80%, or even at least 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of oils may range especially from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, better still from 70% to 90% by weight and even better still from 80% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As oils that may more particularly be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- triglycerides of plant origin such as caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance the products sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names

Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, containing from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of those described in patent application WO 2007/068 371 from the company Cognis.

As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C₉), n-decane (Cio), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci₂), n- tridecane (Ci₃), n-tetradecane (d₄) n-pentadecane (Ci₅), n-hexadecane (Ci₆) and n- heptadecane (Ci₇), and mixtures thereof. According to one mode, use will be made of a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (Ci₃) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) such as those sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, - esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and even better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and of at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made especially of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate and hexyl laurate,

- lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms,

- dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis,

- fatty alkyl ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular of plant origin, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),

- octyldodecanol,

and mixtures thereof.

A preferred oil that may be mentioned is 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fragrances, fragrance peptizers, fillers, dyestuffs and hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and the amounts thereof should be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.001 % to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include calmatives such as allantoin and bisabolol; glycyrrhetinic acid and salts thereof; antibacterial agents such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils; vitamins, for instance retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and derivatives thereof, for instance esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosyl vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and especially plankton extracts; and mixtures thereof. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additive(s) to be added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The compositions of the invention may be used in any cosmetic application. They are particularly suited to removing makeup from the skin and/or the area around the eyes and/or from the lips. Another subject of the invention is a process for cleansing or for removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes or the hair, and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the said keratin materials. According to one embodiment, the process comprises a step of rinsing the keratin materials after application of the composition described previously.

According to one embodiment, the process comprises a step of wetting the keratin materials with water, prior to applying the composition to the said keratin materials.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a lozenge (or block or tablet) (a solid upto about 4 cm in size) or a powder, a powder being a solid that is finely divided as particles. In particular, the composition may be in the form of a single-dose tablet that is melted in the hands before being applied to the keratin materials.

The examples that follow are given as illustrations of the invention and are not limiting in nature. All the amounts are given as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. The names of the compounds are indicated, depending on the case, as the chemical names or the INCI names.

Examples 1 to 6: makeup-removing balms

The following compositions comprising various waxes of plant origin and a wax of petrochemical origin (polyethylene wax) were prepared: Example Example Example Example Example Example 1 2 3 4 5 6

(compa(compa(compa(compa(compa(invenrative) rative) rative) rative) rative) tion)

Ethylhexyl palmitate qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Polyglyceryl-5 laurate 5 5 5 5 5 5 (SunSoft A-121 E

from Taiyo Kagaku)

Carnauba wax 7

(Carnauba Wax SP 63

from Strahl & Pitsch)

Rice bran wax (NC 7

1721 Cera Rica Noda)

Candelilla wax 7

(Candelilla Wax SP 75

from Strahl & Pitsch)

Hydrogenated castor 7

oil (Cutina HR Powder

from Cognis)

Polyethylene wax 7

(Performalene 500-L

polyethylene from New

Phase Technologies)

Sunflower wax 7 (Sunflower wax from

Koster Keunen)

Appearance SubstanSubstanHomoNon- HomoHomotial tial geneous homogeneous geneous surface surface Waxy geneous, Waxy Waxy seepage seepage granular

of oil of oil soft gel

within 24 within 24 with

hours hours surface

seepage

of oil

Hardness (kPa) NA NA 18.44 7.06 35 41 .2 Only the compositions of Examples 3, 5 and 6 are in solid form with a waxy appearance, having a hardness suitable for them to be taken up by finger, the other compositions having a prohibitive appearance.

Three experts tested the stable compositions of Examples 3, 5 and 6, according to the following protocol:

- wash the hands with household soap and then dry them,

- take a small amount of product (about 0.25 g) from the centre of the container, using a dry index finger, and note the uptake on the finger,

next, wet the hand where the application will take place,

- massage with the dry index finger for 5 seconds by a circular motion on the back of the wet hand. Note the more or less rapid release of oil, and the soaping on application (if transformation of the product),

next, rinse for 10 seconds under a flow of tap water at 30°C (note the rinsability), dab dry using a cloth, and assess the finish on the skin.

Each criterion is graded on a scale ranging from— to +++.

The results are as follows:

The composition of Example 3, which comprises a candelilla wax, is heterogeneous on uptake.

The composition based on sunflower wax according to the invention shows greater whitening on rinsing than the composition of Example 5 with polyethylene wax, which is a sign for the consumer of a better transformation effect associated with a better rinsing sensation.

Stability: The compositions of Examples 5 and 6 were baked at 45°C for 1 month, and their hardness was then measured after the residence time in the oven: composition 6 according to the invention based on sunflower wax maintains a stable hardness (41 -42 kPa), whereas the composition of Example 5 shows a drop in hardness (35 kPa before, 15 kPa after 1 month at 45°C).

Examples 7 to 12: makeup-removing balms

Example Example Example Example Example Example 7 8 9 10 11 12

(inven(compa(compa(compar (inven(invention) rative) rative) ative) tion) tion)

Ethylhexyl palmitate qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Sunflower wax 7 7 7 7 7 7 (Sunflower wax from

Koster Keunen)

Polyglyceryl-5 laurate 5

(SunSoft A-121 E

from Taiyo Kagaku)

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate 5

(Dermofeel G10 L from

Dr Straetmans)

Glyceryl isostearate 5

(Nikkol MGIS)

Cocoyl 5

glucoside/coconut

alcohol (Montanov S®

from SEPPIC)

1.5 glyceryl lauryl ether 5

(Chimexane NV from

Chimex)

Caprylic/capric 5 glyceride (Capmul

MCM from

Cognis)

Three experts tested these compositions according to the protocol described hereinabove, grading each criterion on a scale ranging from— to +++. The results are as follows:

Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 1 Example 1 Example (inven(compa(compa0 1 12 tion) rative) rative) (comparati (invention) (invention) ve)

Appearance HomoMarbly Marbly Smooth Marbly Marbly geneous yellow, yellow yellow yellow waxy appeaappearappearrance ance ance

Uptake on Good Hard Good Good Good Good the finger

Release of ++ +++ + ++ ++ ++ oil on

application

Soaping No ++ + No No No

Whitening +++ + + +++ ++ on rinsing

Rinsability ++ — - + ++ +

These tests show that only the surfactants according to the invention make it possible to obtain a composition that is, simultaneously, homogeneous, promotes the release of oil on application, does not soap on application, shows whitening on rinsing and shows good rinsability.

Claims

CLAIMS Oily cosmetic composition comprising:

at least one sunflower wax,

at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units chosen from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units and preferably from 3 to 7 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, and caprylic acid esters of glycerol, in particular those chosen from caprylic acid monoesters and diesters and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof, and

at least one oil. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the wax has a melting point of greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 60°C and better still greater than or equal to 70°C, which may be up to 90°C. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that sunflower wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 3% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of nonionic surfactants ranges from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even better still from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one or the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units is chosen from fatty acid monoesters of polyglycerol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 3 to 7 glycerol units and in particular 5 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid, which is preferably saturated, comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and/or capric acid.

Composition according to any one or the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from lauric acid esters of polyglycerol-5 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 5 glycerol units).

Composition according to any one or the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol are chosen from fatty alkyl ethers comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and of glycerol or polyglycerol, the number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 5 and better still from 1 to 3.

Composition according to any one or the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol of the fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol is chosen from oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alkyl ethers of glycerol or of polyglycerol are chosen from lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol (or 1.5 glyceryl lauryl ether).

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid esters of sucrose are chosen from esters derived from the reaction of sucrose(s) (saccharose) and of fatty acid(s) comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and even better still from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular lauric acid.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups are chosen from oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of polyols comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, oxyethylenated esters of fatty acids (especially of a C12-C30 and preferably C12-C20 acid) and of sorbitan and/or sorbitol ethers, and fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, and mixtures thereof.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is chosen from:

- triglycerides of plant origin such as jojoba oil or shea butter oil,

- volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms,

- esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and even better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and of at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, and dicaprylyl carbonate,

- fatty alkyl ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, of plant origin, such as dicaprylyl ether,

- octyldodecanol,

and mixtures thereof.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of oils is at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight, better still at least 70% by weight and even better still at least 80%, or even at least 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized that it is anhydrous. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized that it is in the form of a lozenge or a powder.

Process for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 1 to 16 is applied to the said keratin materials.