WO2016058180A1

WO2016058180A1 - Solid anhydrous composition for removing the makeup on the skin

Info

Publication number: WO2016058180A1
Application number: PCT/CN2014/088822
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thierry Cotton; Ruijun Chen; Liang Zhang; Dongfang Chen
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2014-10-17
Filing date: 2014-10-17
Publication date: 2016-04-21
Also published as: CN106852117A

Abstract

A solid anhydrous composition comprises hydrophobic aerogel particles, at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C, at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, and at least one nonionic surfactant. The composition has improved makeup remove ability, rinse ability and skin finish, and is easy to carry, and meanwhile remaining a good makeup removing effect. It has a desired hardness so as to be conditioned in the desired devices.

Description

Solid anhydrous composition for removing the makeup on the skin

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to a composition for cleansing or removing makeup from the keratin materials, especially the skin. In particular, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition comprising at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle, at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃, at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, and at least one nonionic surfactant.

Background of the invention

In the field of cleansing composition, "soft solid" compositions constitute a category of products that is appreciated by consumers for their efficacy and their cosmetic qualities (soft, dry feel) . They are likened to solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading over the surface of the skin or, for example, by extrusion through a device with a perforated wall (grille) .

"Soft solid" compositions, by virtue of their fondant texture, may also be increased in value as care products for human keratin materials such as the skin or the lips, or as massage products, balms or pomades, or lipcare sticks. These products contain in the majority volatile silicones that contribute towards the lightness and the non-greasy feel, but pose numerous drawbacks.

It has already been proposed to use silicas in "soft solid" compositions.

Patent US 4 937 069 describes semi-solid antiperspirant compositions formed from 10-50％antiperspirant active agent, 2％to 6％thickener containing at least 2％silica relative to the total composition, 2-15％solid thickening emollient, 2-15％non-volatile liquid emollient and 30-70％volatile silicone.

Patent application FR1060891 described an anhydrous deodorant or antiperspirant composition formed from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, solid fatty substances, and oils.

However, none of the prior arts had described a solid composition for removing the makeup from the keratin materials, especially the skin, with good makeup remove ability, rinse ability and skin finish, and meanwhile stable over time. Moreover, no prior arts disclosed a composition, solid and anhydrous, for removing makeup from the skin, which has a desired hardness, so as to be carried easily in devices.

Therefore, there is a need for a solid anhydrous composition which has improved makeup remove ability, rinse ability and skin finish. Besides, the composition has a desired hardness so as to be conditioned in a jar, a device equipped with an open-work wall, a device equipped with a ball applicator, or in the form of wands (sticks) .

Summary of the invention

Accordingly, one object of the present invention is to provide a solid anhydrous composition which has improved makeup remove ability, rinse ability, and skin finish.

The object can be achieved by a solid anhydrous composition comprising:

a) hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D [0.5] ) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm；

b) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃；

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil； and

d) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for removing makeup from the keratin materials.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, characterized in that it comprises applying to the surface of the keratin material at least one composition as defined previously.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing the makeup on the keratin materials, which comprises applying to the surface of a keratin material, in particular the skin, at least one composition as defined previously.

The composition according to the present invention has improved makeup remove ability, rinse ability and skin finish. Besides, the composition has a desired hardness so as to be conditioned in a jar, a device equipped with an open-work wall, a device equipped with a ball applicator, or in the form of wands (sticks) .

The term "solid" composition means the form of the composition at 20℃, and in particular the term "solid" means a composition whose hardness at 20℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm^-1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.

The hardness of a solid composition is measured according to the following protocol.

The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20℃ for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness may be measured at 20℃ via the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 μm in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm^-1, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.

The average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres) .

The hardness is converted into Nm^-1 by the equation below:

(Y × 10^-3 × 9.8) /L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention has a hardness of greater than or equal to 40 Nm^-1, more preferably ranging from 50 Nm^-1 to 300 Nm^-1, even more preferably ranging from 60 Nm^-1 to 120 Nm^-1.

The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2％by weight of water, or even less than 0.5％water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

By “rinse ability” we intend to mean the ease of being rinsed off by the lukewarm water after applying the composition of the present invention onto the skin.

By “skin finish” we intend to mean the feeling of the skin, such as smoothness,hydration, freshness, and non-greasy, after rinsing off the composition of the present invention.

The term "keratin materials" means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes) , hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes.

Detailed description of the invention

Accordingly, the present invention is a solid anhydrous composition comprising:

b) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃；

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil； and

Hydrophobic silica aerogels

The composition of the present invention comprises hydrophobic silica aerogels.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid； the one most commonly used being supercritical CO₂. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ. , and Scherer G. W. , Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D [0.5] ) , ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) . The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The size of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H. C. , "Light Scattering by Small Particles, " Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5] ) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and better still from 5 to 15 μm.

The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density r) ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder； the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter； the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2％) ； the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g) .

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume S_V ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³.

The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: S_V ＝ S_M x ρ, where ρ is the tapped density, expressed in g/cm³, and S_M is the specific surface area per unit of weight, expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:

An amount ＝ 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate) .

The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.

Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) , by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) , by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

The silica aerogel particles in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05％to 3％by weight and more preferentially from 0.1％to 1％by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Waxes

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃ and preferably greater than or equal to 65℃. The term "wax" under consideration in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25℃) , with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30℃, which may be up to 200℃ and in particular up to 120℃. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3； 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20℃ to 100℃, at a heating rate of 10℃/minute, is then cooled from 100℃ to -20℃ at a cooling rate of 10℃/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20℃ to 100℃ at a heating rate of 5℃/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. As illustrations of waxes with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax； montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, 12-hydroxystearic acid, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains. Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference

hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis (1, 1, 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest

by the company Heterene.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin

and

by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190. Awax that may be used is a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) , alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82

Hydroxypolyester K 82

and Kester Wax K 80

by the company Koster Keunen.

A wax that may also be used is a linear hydroxylated C₁₈-C₂₄ fatty acid, for instance the 12-hydroxystearic acid sold especially under the reference 12-Hydroxystearic Acid Premium Grade 12H-P by the company Thai Kawaken.

Preferably, the said wax (es) with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃ are chosen from carnauba wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, 12-hydroxystearic acid, a polyethylene wax (for example those sold under the names Performalene 500 L Polyethylene or Performalene 400 L Polyethylene by New Phase Technologies, or Asensa SC 211 from Honeywell) , polymethylene waxes (for example the product sold under the reference Cirebelle 108 by Cirebelle) , beeswax, candelilla wax, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, rice bran wax, polyglycerolated beeswax, octacosanyl stearate, ceresin wax, C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate waxes, 12-hydroxystearic acid, polyethylene alcohol wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, ouricury wax, montan wax, the glyceryl trihydroxystearate whose INCI name is Trihydroxystearin (sold, for example, by Elementis under the name Thixcin R) , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃ is chosen from carnauba wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, polymethylene wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, 12-hydroxystearic acid and glyceryl trihydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 65℃, preferably chosen from carnauba wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, 12-hydroxystearic acid, a polymethylene waxes (for example the product sold under the reference Cirebelle 108 by Cirebelle) , candelilla wax, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, rice bran wax, polyglycerolated beeswax, octacosanyl stearate, ceresin wax, C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate waxes, polyethylene alcohol wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, ouricury wax, montan wax, the glyceryl trihydroxystearate whose INCI name is Trihydroxystearin (sold, for example, by Elementis under the name Thixcin R) , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 65℃ chosen from carnauba wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, polymethylene wax, 12-hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and glyceryl trihydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 65℃ chosen from polymethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a content of wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃ preferably ranging from 1％to 30％by weight and in particular from 3％to 20％by weight and even more preferably 5％to 15％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of wax (es) with a melting point of greater than or equal to 65℃ ranging from 1％to 30％by weight and in particular from 3％to 20％by weight and even more preferably 5％to 15％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrocarbon-based oils

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one

hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i. e. 105 Pa) . The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^-3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .

The oils in accordance with the invention are preferably selected from any cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils, or a mixture thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa. s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa. sand more preferably from 100 to 300 000 mPa. s.

As examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C₈-C₁₆ esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used； volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.

As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

-hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene；

-hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or wheatgerm oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil,

-linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane,

-synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms；

-synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with R₁ + R₂ ≥ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate； alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate； hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates； polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate； and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,

-fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol,

-higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid；

-carbonates；

-acetates；

-citrates.

As illustrations of oils that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance synthetic esters.

Mention may be made of such oils, for example, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, which is sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois under the tradename Palmitate D’ ethyl 2 Hexyle.

The oils are preferably present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 55％to 98％by weight and more preferentially from 65％to 90％by weight, more preferably 70％to 85％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants

The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol.

According to the present invention, the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain.

More preferably, it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups, and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups.

The composition may also contain one or more other nonionic emulsifying surfactants.

The surfactant or the mixture of surfactants preferably has an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) ranging from 5 to 20 and preferably from 8 to 18, and it should be soluble in the oily phase. Surfactants with an HLB of greater than 20 may also be used, provided that one or more other surfactants are added thereto such that the HLB of the mixture ranges from 5 to 15.

Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol that may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.

As illustration of the nonionic surfactants, mentions may be made of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, such as those sold by the company Nihon Emulsion under the tradename Emalex Gwis-320EX.

Examples of other nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan, esters of fatty acids and of polyols； oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyols, and mixtures thereof.

Surfactants of this type that may be mentioned more particularly include:

-oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate；

-fatty acid esters of polyglycerol such as (INCI name) Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate or Polyglyceryl-10 Trilaurate；

-fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6 Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate or PEG-10 Isostearate；

-oxyalkylenated, especially oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated, fatty alkyl ethers, for instance ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 (INCI name) , and also mixtures containing them, for instance the mixture sold under the name Emulgade CM by the company Cognis (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate) ；

-and mixtures thereof.

Mentions may be made of polysorbate 20, such as those sold by the company Croda under the tradename Tween^TM 20-LQ- (AP) .

The nonoinic surfactant can be present in a content ranging from 0.5％to 20％by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1％to 15％by weight and more preferably from 1％to 10％by weight.

Adjuvants

In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH modifiers (acidic or basic) , fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes) , film-forming polymers, additional surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, cationic, or nonoinic surfactants； additional oils such as silicone oil, or fluoro oils, thickeners and/or gelling agents, active ingredients, such as sodium hyaluronate, plant extracts such as madecassoside, and also lipid vesicles.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising in its structure carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom.

The term "fluoro oil" means partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based oils comprising carbon atoms and fluorine atoms.

As examples of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ； polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms； phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound (s) , and/or the amount thereof, such that the properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Galenical forms

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a balm, a pomade or a gel whose hardness may vary as a function of the desired application, the region of human keratin material to be treated and the desired conditioning.

The compositions according to the invention may be conditioned in a jar； in a device equipped with an open-work wall, especially a grille； in a device equipped with a ball applicator ( “roll-on” ) ； in the form of wands (sticks) . In this regard, they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well known to those skilled in the art.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises applying to the surface of the keratin material at least one composition as defined previously.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing the makeup on the keratin materials, which comprises applying to the surface of a keratin material at least one composition as defined previously.

The composition according to the invention has improved makeup remove ability, rinse ability and skin finish. Besides, the composition has a desired hardness so as to be conditioned in a jar, a device equipped with an open-work wall, a device equipped with a ball applicator, or in the form of wands (sticks) .

In the patent application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, the contents are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention.

All the parts and percentages in the examples are given on a weight basis and all the measurements were obtained at about 25℃, unless otherwise mentioned.

Examples

Example 1-4: Preparation examples

The following formulations were prepared as follows:

Ex. 2: replacing the Synthetic wax with Tribehenine

Ex. 3: replacing the surfactant PEG-20 Glyceryl triisostearate with PPG-14 Butyl ether

Ex. 4: replacing the surfactant PEG-20 Glyceryl triisostearate with Ceteareth-20

Method of preparation

The examples 1 to 4 were prepared following the steps of:

1.Mixing the phase A with VMI mixer under 85℃ for 1 hour；

2.Mixing phase B to phase A under 85℃ until homogeneous；

3.Adding phase C to the mixture obtained above under 85℃ until homogeneous.

Then the mixture was hot poured to the mould to form solid makeup removal sticks. Example 5: Evaluation example

Evaluation of hardness, rinse ability, skin finish and stability of the examples 1 to 4 were performed.

The hardness of the example 1 to 4 was measured according to the method mentioned previously.

The examples 1 to 4 were kept under RT (25℃) and 45℃ for 2 months.

The exapmples 1 to 4 were then applied on the skin, rinsed off by water, then the scores on the makeup remove ability and the skin finish were evaluated by a group of 6 women models.

5；very good performance；

4；good performance；

3；acceptable performance；

2.poor performane；

1.very poor performance.

It was observed that comparing to examples 2 to 4, the invention Ex. 1 has desired hardness, with an improved makeup remove ability, rinse ability, and skin finish.

Meanwhile, it is stable over time.

While illustrative examples of the invention have been described above, it is, of course, understood that many and various modifications will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the relevant art, or may become apparent as the art develops, in the light of the foregoing description. Such modifications are contemplated as being within the spirit and scope of the invention or inventions disclosed in this specification.

Claims

A solid anhydrous composition comprising:

a) hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D [0.5] ) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm；

b) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃；

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil； and

d) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol.
The composition according to claim 1 has a hardness of greater than or equal to 40 Nm^-1, more preferably ranging from 50 Nm^-1 to 300 Nm^-1, even more preferably ranging from 60 Nm^-1 to 120 Nm^-1.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2 is preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for removing makeup from the keratin materials.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5] ) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, preferably from 1 to 1000 μm, more preferentially from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic aerogel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g of particles.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydrophobic aerogel particles have a tapped density ranging from 0.02 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.03 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the INCI name Silica silylate.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel is present in the composition ranging from 0.05％ to 3％ by weight, preferably from 0.1％ to 1％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, whereinthe said wax preferably has a melting point of greater than or equal to 65℃, being chosen from carnauba wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, a polyethylene wax, a polymethylene wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, rice bran wax, polyglycerolated beeswax, octacosanyl stearate, ceresin wax, C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate waxes, polyethylenated alcohol wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, ouricury wax, montan wax and glyceryl trihydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof； more preferably chosen from a polymethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, or a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the wax is present in the composition ranging from 1％ to 30％ by weight, preferably from 3％ to 20％ by weight, more preferably from 5％ to 15％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin, branched C₈-C₁₆ esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils of animal origin or plant oils, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at 25℃, higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, carbonates, acetates, citrates, or mixtures thereof； preferably selected from synthetic esters of fatty acids； more preferably cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate； alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate； hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates； polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate； and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, or a mixture thereof； even more preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is present in the composition ranging from 55％ to 98％ by weight, preferably from 65％ to 90％ by weight, more preferably from 70％ to 85％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition..
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof； more preferably PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in the composition ranging from 0.5％ to 20％ by weight, preferably from 1％ to 15％ by weight, more preferably from 1％ to 10％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A solid anhydrous composition, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 0.05％ to 3％, preferably from 0.1％ to 1％ of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the INCI name Silica silylate；

b) from 1％ to 30％, preferably from 3％ to 20％, more preferably from 5％ to 15％ of at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 65℃ chosen from a polymethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, or a mixture thereof；

c) from 55％ to 98％, preferably from 65％ to 90％, more preferably from 70％ to 85％ of at least one hydrocarbon-based oil 2-ethylhexyl palmitate； and

d) from 0.5％ to 20％ by weight, preferably from 1％ to 15％, more preferably from 1％ to 10％ of at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof,

wherein the composition preferably has a hardness of greater than or equal to 40 Nm^-1, more preferably ranging from 50 Nm^-1 to 300 Nm^-1, even more preferably ranging from 60 Nm^-1 to 120 Nm^-1,

and wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition for removing makeup from the keratin materials.
Cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing the makeup on the keratin materials, which comprises applying to the surface of a keratin material, in particular the skin, at least one composition as defined in any of the preceding claims 1 to 15.