FR3022771A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE SILICA AND OILS - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is an aqueous cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (1) at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more oils non-silicone; (2) at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more porous silicas having a specific surface area of 30 to 1000 m 2 / g, an oil absorption ranging from 0.25 g of oil silica (3.5 g oil / g silica; and the ratio by weight of non-silicone oil / silica being greater than or equal to 1. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain mattifying properties and / or to hide imperfections of the skin while having good cosmetic properties such as sweetness and freshness on application, non-greasy finish.

Description

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin materials, especially the skin and lips, hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials using said composition.

In the field of cosmetic skin care compositions, it is known to use mineral or organic fillers with a "soft-focus" effect that absorb sebum and perspiration, to matify the skin and / or to optically smooth the microrelief. and hide imperfections of the skin. However, the use of these loads is generally accompanied by a dry touch, rèche and a lack of rhédibitoire comfort for the user. Silicone elastomers are also widely used as a matting agent because they allow to obtain a soft touch on the skin but must be used at a relatively high rate to have the mattifying effect. They are usually formulated in an anhydrous medium and are mainly used as a makeup base. Indeed, the compositions obtained do not have all the sensory characteristics of a care formula, such as freshness on application, ease of penetration, hydration or a non-greasy finish. In addition we seek to remove silicones in cosmetics to improve the naturalness of the formulas.

There remains the need to have compositions to reduce the gloss and / or matify the skin and / or to hide the imperfections of the skin without silicone while having good cosmetic properties, especially that are soft, fresh and non-greasy to the application, which penetrate easily and allow good hydration of the skin, without white effect on the skin.

The use of compositions according to the invention on the hair makes it possible to significantly reduce the regreasing of the hair and / or the scalp, and therefore the greasy appearance and the greasy feel of the hair and thus makes it possible to reduce the frequency of washing. and to space the shampoos.

The Applicant has discovered that this need could be met by combining in aqueous compositions, especially of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion type, a non-silicone oil, one or more silicas in an amount greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

More specifically, the subject of the present invention is an aqueous composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion comprising: at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the composition one or more non-silicone oils; (2) at least 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more porous silicas having a specific surface area of 30 to 1000 m 2 / g, an oil absorption ranging from 0.25 g of oil / g of silica at 3.5 g of oil / g of silica; and the ratio by weight non-silicone oil / silica being greater than or equal to 1 The composition of the invention being intended for topical application on the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium 10 compatible with all keratin materials such as skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers (such as hair, eyelashes). The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain mattifying properties and / or mask skin imperfections while having good cosmetic properties such as softness and freshness on application, a non-greasy finish, a ease of penetration and good hydration of the skin. It also makes it possible to obtain good cosmetic properties for conditioning the hair without touching the fat or the load effect. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition 20 as defined above to said materials. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field. Non-silicone oils The composition of the invention contains at least one unsecured oil. The term "non-silicone oil" means oils that do not comprise an Si-O bond. By oils is meant fats liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (1 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). .

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). .

The oil may be chosen from all physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable, and synthetic oils; in particular volatile and nonvolatile hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

More precisely, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 300,000 mPa.s.

By way of example of volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin ( also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C 8 -C 16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name ShelI Solt by Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application by Cognis DE10 2008 012 457. By way of example of a non-volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils of wheat germ, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm, colza, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, sunflower, corn, soy, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot kernel, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam or squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R2 such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 012 alcohol benzoate at 015, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-undecyl; pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates; - acetates; - citrates; As oils which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the following oils: esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and from at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 atoms of carbon ; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate such as those sold under the name PALMESTER 1510 by the company KLK OLEO, under the name LEXOL IPM-NF by the company INOLEX CHEM ICAL COMPANY or under the name ISOPROPYLMYRISTATE by the company COGNIS (BASF), isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononanoate isononyl, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate such as that sold under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS, - ethers fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis), and glycerol ethers containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) tel Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

In particular mention may be made of the mixture of caprylic / capric acid esters and of C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as coco-caprylate / caprate sold under the name CETIOL LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810. C by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS. volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of Cognis WO 2007/068371.

By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (Ce), n-decane, n-undecane and n-dodecane (O12), n-tridecane (O13). , n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16) and n-heptadecane (C17), and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (Cil) and tridecane (013), such as the product marketed under the reference CETIOL UT by Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, for instance the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of diol marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the name INCI dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; It is also possible to use C12-C24 branched and / or unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and the like. oleic or linolenic alcohol.

The oils can be chosen from essential oils. According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation. water, either by dry distillation, or by extraction with liquid or gaseous solvents, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition. These essential oils can also be prepared by synthesis. The essential oil used according to the invention can be obtained from any plant material derived from the whole plant or from any part of said plant, such as, for example, leaves, stems, flowers, petals, seeds, fruits. , buds, roots, twigs of plants and / or whole plants. The essential oil used according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques mentioned above and will preferably be obtained according to the conventional technique of steam distillation. The essential oils are preferably selected from geranium essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, cedar essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, green oregano essential oil, oil lemongrass essential oil, lemon catnip essential oil, rosemary essential oil, mountain savory essential oil, thyme essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, lemon essential oil, lemon essential oil eucalyptus essential oil, in particular radiata or globulus, green or red mandarin essential oil, clove essential oil, cinnamon essential oil, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is selected from geranium essential oil, rosemary essential oil, lemon zest essential oil, thyme essential oil, mountain savory essential oil, essential oil cloves, lemongrass essential oil, red tangerine and, eucalyptus radiata essential oil. - their mixtures.

The non-silicone oil (s) are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, fatty acid esters, fatty acid ethers, linear alkanes, liquid fatty alcohols, essential oils and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from vegetable oils such as coconut oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil and the like. argan oil, liquid jojoba wax, rapeseed oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof. The non-silicone oil or oils are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of active material that can range, for example, from 10 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight and better still from 10 to 20% by weight. total of the composition. Porous silica The composition comprises one or more spherical porous silicas. For the purposes of the present invention, porous particles are understood to mean particles having a structure comprising pores or interstices. The structure of the particles may be of matrix type in the image of a sponge. The porosity of the particles is quantitatively characterized by their specific surface area. The term "spherical silicas" is used herein to mean particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100 ° C. ). According to one particular embodiment, the silicas that can be used in the composition of the invention are amorphous and of pyrogenic origin. They are preferably in powder form. According to the invention, the silica is preferably chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 30 to 1000 m 2 / g, preferably from 100 to 900 m 2 / g. The average particle diameter by volume is generally 0.1 μm. (microns) at 40 μm (microns), preferably from 1 μm to 20 μm. As an example of porous silica, the following commercial products may be used: Silica 35 Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferably SB 300 from the company Myoshi Kasei; the range of SUNSPHERE from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH including Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 15 20 8 3022771 from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere of Fuji Silysia; the ranges of Silica Pearl and Satinier from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly the Satinier M13 and M16, the silicas MSS-500 from the company KOBO, and more particularly the MSS-500-20N, as well as the Silica Shells from the company 5 KOBO. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to International Standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is especially described in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. Preferably, the silica particles according to the invention have a capacity oil absorption measured by WET POINT ranging from 0.25 g of oil / g of silica to 3.5 g of oil / g of silica, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 g / g and better still from 0.7 to 1.3 g of oil / g of silica. The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted by Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (oleic acid) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The weight in g of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio of oil mass (g) to powder mass (g) g /. The silicas may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 49% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, better still from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the ratio by weight non-silicone oil / silica ranges from 1 to 8.8, preferably from 1 to 5. 10 Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water. Depending on the dosage form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase may range from 2 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. composition. This amount depends on the dosage form of the desired composition. The amount of water can represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol. ; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Fatty phase The proportion of the fatty phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 10 to 88% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and better still from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. the composition. The fatty phase may thus consist of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it comprises in particular at least one oil (non-silicone liquid body at 25 ° C.) and possibly other fatty substances. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; Vaseline paste, butters (shea, cocoa, babassu, etc.). These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or texture, desired. In known manner, all the compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, gelling agents and / or hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; anti-free radical agents; sequestering agents; antioxidants; conservatives; alkanizing or acidifying agents; perfumes ; film-forming agents; fillers, surfactants; and their mixtures. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the intended purpose and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 to%, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention can be used for any topical application; in particular, it may constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and in particular in the cosmetics field with immediate perceived efficacy. It can in particular be used for care and / or make-up removal of the skin, lips and / or eyes, and also as a composition for hair care. It can also be used as a deodorant or as a sun product, as well as for cleaning the skin.

The composition according to the invention may especially be used as a product for cosmetic use for the care of the skin on the anti-aging, oily skin, sun protection, antiperspirants and deodorants, hair and / or scalp products and styling , perfume products as well as makeup products.

The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for the care, removal of makeup and / or the cleansing of the skin, lips and / or eyes, and / or for the hair care. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing make-up and / or care of the skin, lips and / or eyes, in which a composition as defined is applied to the skin, the lips and / or the eyes. above. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair care process in which a composition as defined above is applied to the hair.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition constitutes a composition for the care of the skin of the body and / or the face, preferably the face. The composition according to the invention is in the form of a direct emulsion (oil in water) or indirect emulsion (water in oil) of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type for example, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a serum, a paste, of a foam. The composition preferably has a skin-friendly pH which is generally from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7. The subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for limiting the shiny appearance or shine of keratin materials, especially the skin. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process, characterized in that it comprises the application of a composition according to the invention to keratin materials, in particular to limit the gloss or the shiny appearance of the skin and / or hair in the area of application. The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. Raw materials are named by their INCI name.

The quantities indicated are in% by weight, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES Example 1 (Care) Compositions according to the invention comprising: phase Name Chemical name INCI name Commercial MA C rate SUNSPHERE MICROSPHERES SILICA 15% H 51 (AGC SI-TECH) AMORPHOUS SILICA (5 μm) B ISOPROPYL PALMITATE (Cognis) ISOPROPYL PALMITATE ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 20% A2 PLANTACARE ALKYL (C8 / C10 / C12 / C14 34/24/29/10) DECYL POLYGLUCOSI 2.12% 2000 UP (1,4) GLUCOSIDE (Cognis) AQUEOUS SOLUTION 53% UNPROTECTED (PH 11.5 PER NAOH)) Al water water qsp Procedure - Prepare the aqueous phase by solubilizing A2 in Al under cold deflocculator. - Pour phase A into phase B under cold foam and check the fineness of the emulsion under a microscope. - Then add phase C The composition is applied to the skin. The skin is matified and hydrated. The silica of composition 1 was replaced by the following silicas and the softness of the skin was tested. Name Supplier Chemical name Softness Commercial Oil g Oil (oleic acid / 100g powder Perluccia 14M JGC Catalysts silica ++ 0.59 & Chemicals Satin M13 JGC Catalysts silica ++ 0.6710 & Chemicals SF-16C Miyoshi Kasei silica +++ 2.46 Silica Pearl JGC Catalysts Silica ++ 0.58 15M & Chemicals Silica Pearl P-JGC Catalysts Silica ++ 0.49 & Chemicals Silica, SB-Miyoshi Kasei Silica +++ 1.25 300, BEAD Sunsil 130 Sunjin silica +++ 1.00 Chemical Sunsphere H-AGC SI-TECH silica ++ 0.62 201 Sunsphere AGC SI-TECH silica +++ 1.10 H51 Sunsphere-AGC SI-TECH silica +++ 0.92 12L Example 2 (face cream) A facial care composition was prepared Phase Commercial Name Chemical Name Example 2 D SUNSPHERE H 51 (AGC SI-TECH) AMORPHOUS SILICA MICROSPHERES (5 μm) 10 Al SODORIZED BUTTER SHEA BUTTER 1, 5 BIOLOGICAL (CLAY NOEL) A2 LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN BE LS 9779 (SERGANIC LABORATORY (BASF)) ARGAN OIL 5 Al CERABEIL BIO-D (BAERLOCHER) BEE WAX WHITE 1 Al TEGO A LKANOL 1618 (EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) CETYLSTEARYLIC 0.5 ALCOHOL A2 CETIOL PGL (Cognis) REACTION PRODUCT OF 2-HEXYLDECANE-1-OL, 2-OCTODODECANE-1-0L AND LAURIC ACID 10 A3 EMULMETIK 320 (LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS (UNIPEX) 2.5 YEAR LECITHIN TEGOSOFT MM (EVONIK MYRISTYL 1 GOLDSCHMIDT MYRISTATE) B2 AQUASORB A 500 (HERCULES -) CARBOXYMETHYL SODIUM CELLULOSE 0.9 C ETHYL ALCOHOL 96 ° 5 B1 DESIONIZED WATER Qsp 100 Al AXOL C62 STEARATE CITRIC ESTER PROCESS - Prepare the aqueous phase by swelling B2 in B1 under deflocculating at 65 ° C. - Prepare the fat phase by heating the Al phase in a water bath at 65 ° C and inserting the A2 and A3 phases at the last moment. - Pour the phase A in the phase B under emulsifier at 65 ° C and check the fineness of the emulsion under the microscope. - Once the emulsion has become fine, cool the mixture under pale - Then add phase C and phase D Composition 2 is stable for 2 months at room temperature and at 45 ° C.

The composition has a matte texture, non-greasy and soft on application, with a matte and moisturizing finish. Examples 4 (hair care) Phase Chemical name C SUNSPHERE H 51 (AGC SI-TECH) AMORPHOUS SILICA MICROSPHERES (5 15% Pm) A VIRGIN OLIVE OIL (OLVEA) OLIVE OIL 30% VIRGIN B2 PLANTACARE COCOYL POLYGLUCOSIDE ( 1.4) IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION TO 53% 2.12% 2000 UP (COGNIS) B3 RHODICARE CFT Xanthan Gum 0.4% B1 Water Qsp 100% Procedure - Prepare the aqueous phase by inflating B2 in B1 under deflocculating agent. - Add B3 - Pour phase A into phase B under cold foam and check the fineness of the emulsion under a microscope. - Then add phase 20 16

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. An aqueous composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (1) at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more non-silicone oils; (2) at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more porous silicas having a specific surface area of 30 to 1000 m 2 / g, an oil absorption ranging from 0.25 g of oil silica (3.5 g oil / g silica; and the ratio by weight of non-silicone oil / silica being greater than or equal to 1. 2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the silica particles have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 0.5 to 1.5 g / g and better still from 0.7 to 1.3 g of oil / g of silica. 3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2 wherein the silica particles have a specific surface ranging from 100 to 900 m 2 / g of silica. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the silicas are present in a content ranging from 10 to 49% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, better still from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the weight ratio non-silicone oil / silica ranges from 1 to 8.8, preferably from 1 to 5. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the one or more non-silicone oils are chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the one or more non-silicone oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, fatty acid esters, fatty acid ethers, linear alkanes, liquid fatty alcohols, essential oils and their mixtures. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the one or more non-silicone oils are chosen from coconut oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil and olive, argan oil, liquid jojoba wax, rapeseed oil, isopropyl lemyristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the non-silicone oil (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of active material ranging from 10 to 30% by weight and better still from 10 to 30% by weight. 20% of the total weight of the composition. 10. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 to said materials. 11. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for limiting the shiny appearance or gloss of keratin materials, in particular the skin. 12. Cosmetic process, characterized in that it comprises the application of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 10 on keratin materials, in particular to limit the gloss or shiny appearance of the skin and / or hair at the area of application.