FR3051362B1

FR3051362B1 - RINCABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING EXFOLIANT PARTICLES

Info

Publication number: FR3051362B1
Application number: FR1654474A
Authority: FR
Inventors: Sabine Favre; Isabelle Mori; Eric Lheureux
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2016-05-19
Filing date: 2016-05-19
Publication date: 2019-06-07
Anticipated expiration: 2036-05-19
Also published as: FR3051362A1

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, notamment cosmétique, comprenant au moins : - au moins une huile polaire, - au moins une huile siliconée, de préférence non volatile, - des particules d'aérogel de silice hydrophobe, et - au moins un tensioactif ou un mélange de tensioactifs, dans laquelle le rapport en poids de ladite (ou desdites) huile(s) polaire(s) sur ladite (ou lesdites) huile(s) siliconée(s) est supérieur ou égal à 1.The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least: at least one polar oil, at least one silicone oil, preferably non-volatile, particles of hydrophobic silica airgel, and at least one surfactant or a surfactant mixture, wherein the weight ratio of said polar oil (s) to said silicone oil (s) is greater than or equal to 1.

Description

The present invention relates to a rinsable composition and the use of said composition in the cosmetic field, in particular for the care of the skin.

In the context of the invention, the term "rinsable composition" means a composition formulated to be applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin, in a more or less thick layer, intended to be left to rest or not and finally to be rinsed to remove.

The present invention relates in particular to a rinsable cosmetic composition for topical application, in particular a product for the care and / or cleaning of the skin of the body and / or of the face and / or the lips, such as, for example, a make-up removing composition for the skin face and / or lips.

There are many rinsable compositions especially used for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, especially the skin.

In general, it is desired that these compositions are easy to apply to the skin, that they are easy to rinse, and that they leave an impression of softness on the skin.

However, the rinsable compositions of the state of the art do not satisfy all of these three properties satisfactorily.

In particular, the rinsable compositions of the state of the art are generally difficult to rinse.

Thus, it is sought to provide rinsable compositions having improved rinsability and improved ease of application.

Advantageously, it is also desired to provide rinsable compositions having improved rinsability, improved ease of application and leaving a feeling of softness on the skin after rinsing.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the selection of a particular blend of oils and its combination with specific ingredients makes it possible precisely to improve both the rinsability, the ease of application to the skin, and the impression of softness left on the skin, of a rinsable composition.

Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least: at least one polar oil, at least one silicone oil, preferably non-volatile, hydrophobic silica airgel particles, and less a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants, wherein the weight ratio of said (or said) oil (s) polar (s) on said (or said) oil (s) silicone (s) is greater than or equal to 1.

As demonstrated in the experimental part, the combination of the ingredients of the composition according to the invention confers properties of both rinsability, ease of application and softness left on the skin after rinsing or wiping, which can not be found not at the same time in the compositions of the state of the art, especially in the compositions not comprising a mixture of polar oil and non-volatile silicone oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "skin" is intended to mean the skin of the face, including the lips, the eyelids, the contour of the lips and the eye contour, and / or the skin of the body, especially the hands and / or or legs. According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for the care and / or the cleaning of the skin of the body and / or the face. According to another aspect, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin of the body and / or of the face, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition as defined above, and preferably a step rinsing, preferably with water, or wiping said composition.

OILS

The composition of the invention comprises at least one polar oil and at least one silicone oil (preferably non-volatile), in a proportion in the composition such as the ratio by weight of said polar oil (s) (s). ) on said (or said) oil (s) silicone (s) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably between 1 to 10, preferably between 2 to 5.

As is apparent from the examples below, the use of the oil mixture of the invention in a rinsable composition advantageously makes it possible to improve both the rinsability, the ease of application to the skin, and the impression of softness left on the skin of said rinsable composition, which further comprises at least one surfactant and airgel particles.

This mixture of oils may preferably be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 50% by weight, or even from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. . The polar oil or the mixture of polar oils may preferably be present in a proportion of from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The silicone oil or the silicone oil mixture may preferably be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, especially from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polar oils

The term "polar oil" is intended to mean any lipophilic compound having, at 25 ° C., a solubility parameter δ 0 characteristic of dispersive interactions greater than 16 and a solubility parameter δρ characteristic of polar interactions greater than strictly 0. The solubility parameters δ 0 and δρ are defined according to Hansen's classification. For example, these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space: - δο characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; and - δa is determined by the equation: δ3 = (δρ2 + δρ2) 1/2.

The parameters δο, δρ, ôh and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/2.

These polar oils can be of plant origin, mineral or synthetic. The polar oils will preferably be chosen from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils.

By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant a polar oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. The polar oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon polar oils of vegetable origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl glutamate / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203 ), the esters of fatty alcohol and of fatty acid, in particular whose fatty acids and fatty alcohols may have chain lengths ranging from C8 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these fatty acids and fatty alcohols being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly unsaturated such as in particular jojoba oil, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially Cl8 to C36, these oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower seeds, grape seed oil, sesame seed (820.6 g / mol), corn, apricot, castor oil, shea butter, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DETBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. The polar oil may also be chosen from hydrocarbon polar oils of mineral or synthetic origin, for example: synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is> 10.

The esters may especially be chosen from esters, in particular of fatty acids, for example: dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC from Cognis), cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as myristate. isopropyl, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dietyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, the benzoates of alcohols in C12 to C15, the hexyl urate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononanoate isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as di pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; and diacid diol and dimeric dimer esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in application FR 03 02809. The polar oil may also be chosen from : at room temperature liquid alcohol with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol; 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof; and - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis.

Silicone oils

Preferably, the silicone oil is a non-volatile silicone oil.

By "non-volatile silicone oil" is meant a silicone oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours. These oils have in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 and preferably greater than 6, and their mixtures.

The polydialkylsiloxanes may be mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups and polydimethylsiloxanes end-groups di-methylsilanol, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes trimethylsilyl end groups.

HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have an average size expressed as the volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, more preferably from 5 to 20 μm and most preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The average size of silica airgel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial Mastervizer 2000 type granulometer from Malvem. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and an average size expressed as a mean diameter by volume ( D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density of from 0.04 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm 3.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be evaluated according to the following protocol, referred to as packed density:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g) ·

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume (Sy) ranging from 5 to 60 m / cm, preferably from 10 to 50 m / cm and better from 15 to 40 m / cm.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: Sy = Sm xp where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and Sm is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured with WET POINT, ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better from 8 to 12 ml / g of particles.

The absorption capacity measured at WET POINT, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called WET POINT method or powder oil uptake determination method described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the WET POINT, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

Hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalizing the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

It will be used in particular silylated silica airgel particles and in particular hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica). Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size. about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200 may also be mentioned.

The airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. 5% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

SURFACE

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant or a mixture of surfactants.

The total amount of surfactant (s) present in the composition is preferably from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 2.5 to 15%, more preferably 5 to 10% by weight.

Within the composition of the invention, the mass ratio of the amount of hydrophobic silica airgel particles to the total amount of surfactant (s) is generally from 1:20 to 1: 1, and preferably from 1 to : 10 to 1: 5.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic, amphoteric and anionic surfactants.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

The nonionic surfactants are preferably chosen from: fatty acid esters, especially C 8 -C 24, and sugars and sugar alcohol ethers, especially C 8 -C 24 ethers, oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene, which may comprise from 5 to 100 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 10 to 80 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units; the oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 5 to 100 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 10 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably in C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), such as BRIJ 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteth -20 "), the oxyethylene ethoxylated ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol (CTFA name" Ceteareth-30 ") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols having 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name" C12-15 Pareth-7 ") as that marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; the fatty acid esters, in particular C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 22, and polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which may comprise from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units, preferably from 10 to 80 oxyethylene units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company UNIQEMA, or PEG-75 stearate; - Fatty acid esters, especially C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene (which may contain from 5 to 100 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units) ), such as polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT O® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the polyoxyethylated glyceryl cocoate 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product VARIONIC Ll 13® sold by the company SHEREX, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT and the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate with 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product TAGAT I® from GOLDSCHMIDT; fatty acid esters, especially of C 8 -C 24 and preferably of C 16 -C 22, and of sorbitol which are advantageously oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated (which may contain from 5 to 100 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units), as polysorbate 60 especially sold under the name Tween 60® by the company UNIQEMA and more particularly sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name = Polysorbate-20) sold especially under the name Tween 20 ® by the company UNIQEMA; - and their mixtures.

The fatty acid and sugar esters, which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may preferably be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C and may be selected in particular from the group consisting of esters or mixtures of C8-C22 fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of C14-C22 fatty acid esters and methylglucose.

As examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, there may be mentioned sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products marketed by Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, Fl10 and F160; and examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and methylglucose which may be mentioned are methylglucose-polyglyceryl-3 distearate, marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. It may also be mentioned monoesters of glucose or maltose such as methyl-o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

The fatty alcohol ethers, especially C8-C24, and sugars, which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C and may be chosen in particular in the group consisting of ethers or mixtures of C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or ether mixtures of a C 14 fatty alcohol; C22 and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty acid unit of the ethers which may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acid unit of the ethers may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.

As examples of carbohydrate fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made of (C8-C22) alkyl polyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, which is marketed, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally in the form of a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC.

The surfactant used is more particularly sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose-polyglyceryl-3 distearate and (C8-C22) alkyl polyglucosides.

The glycerol fatty acid esters which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C., can be chosen in particular from the group consisting of esters formed from at least one acid comprising a linear saturated alkyl chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 glycerol units. One or more of these glycerol fatty acid esters may be used in the present invention.

These esters may be chosen in particular from glycerol stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Glycerol stearates and palmitates are preferably used.

As examples of surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of decaglyceryl monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA names: polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl tristearate) 10, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate), such as the products marketed under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1S, 2S, 3S and 5S by the company Nikko, and the diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl-2 stearate) ), such as the product marketed by Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS.

The sorbitan fatty acid esters which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and C16 fatty acid esters. -C22 oxyethylenesoxyethylenated sorbitan. They are formed of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenesoxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 2 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 4 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.

The composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant (s) in an amount preferably of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably a betaine-type surfactant.

The amphoteric (or zwitterionic) surfactants are preferably chosen from derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkylbetaines, such as cocoamidopropylbetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkylamines. sulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be employed, mention may also be made of the following products of respective structures (A2) and (A3):

in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid of formula Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a group beta-hydroxyethyl, and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; in which :

Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid of formula Ra'COOH, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 group, X 'represents a group selected from -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ ', and a hydrogen atom, Y' represents a group chosen from -COOH, -COOZ ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H and -CH2-CHOHSO3Z', n is equal to 1 or 2, and Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

Compounds of formula (A3) are preferred.

These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate di sodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium,

disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOLR C2M Concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (A4):

in which: - Ra "represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid of formula Ra" -COOH, preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, Y "represents a group selected from -COOH, -C (O) OZ-, -CH2-CH (OH) -S03H, and -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z-, wherein Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from a alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, - Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, and and n ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

The compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB may be mentioned in particular.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl (Cs-C20) betaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines and (C8-C20) alkyl amphodiacetates, as well as the sodium salt of laurylaminosuccinamate. diethylaminopropyl; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbétaine and cocoamphodiacétate.

The composition according to the invention comprises the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) in an amount of preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

The anionic surfactants are preferably chosen from surfactants having, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups co2h, co2; so3h, so3; oso3h, oso3; -h2po3, -hpo3; -po32; -h2po2, = hpo2, -hpo2; = In2; = poh, = po;

Among the anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates and alpha olefin sulphonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylethercarboxylates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids acyllactylates, D-galactoside uronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkylarylethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoether carboxylic acids; as well as the corresponding salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

Among the anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts, preferably of C 8 to C 36, and especially of C 18 to C 36, these fatty acids possibly being linear or branched. saturated or unsaturated, such as, for example, oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. C6-C24.

The acyllactylates preferably have an acyl group having from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

When the anionic surfactant is in the salt form, it may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular aminoalcohol salts or the salts thereof. alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As examples of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

Preferred anionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-C24) alkyl sulphates, (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulphates, acylglutamates and (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylates, especially in the form of alkali metal or ammonium salts. , aminoalcohols, or alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, it is preferred to use the (C 12 -C 20) alkyl sulphates, the C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, the acylglutamates and the (C 12 -C 20) alkyl ether carboxylates, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol, and alkaline earth metal salts, or a mixture thereof.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the anionic surfactant (s) in an amount of between 0.1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and even between 0.5% and 5%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant (or a mixture of anionic surfactants) and at least one nonionic surfactant (or a mixture of nonionic surfactants).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, of polar oil, in particular chosen from triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, of non-volatile silicone oil, in particular chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes; From 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic silica airgel particles, preferentially surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, and from 0.1% to 20% by weight; by weight of surfactant (s). In general, the composition according to the invention being intended for topical application to the skin, it also comprises, as a support, a physiologically acceptable medium.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin.

Thus, the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face or the body and the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the skin. nails.

The cosmetically acceptable medium according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase, an aqueous phase, and / or additives.

The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used, and especially in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or suspension, or an oily solution; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type; a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or any other cosmetic form.

The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.

According to one embodiment, the composition is aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration ranging preferably from 5% to 98% by weight, in particular from 20% to 95% by weight, advantageously from 40% to 90% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition, if aqueous, may be acidic, neutral or alkaline.

Preferably, the composition has a pH of from 2 to 11, especially from 3 to 9, or even from 3 to 7.

According to another embodiment, the composition is free of water (anhydrous).

The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents which are liquid at 25 ° C. and 1 atm, in particular water-soluble, such as C2-C7 alcohols.

There may be mentioned aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols C2-C7, glycols C3-C7; diols and ethers of C3-C7 diols; polyols and C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can therefore be used alone or in admixture with water.

Advantageously, the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also include one or more organopolysiloxane elastomers.

By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenic unsaturation groups. , especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in the application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy end groups, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B).

Advantageously, a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is used.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular that do not contain polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and JP-A-61-194009, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42" can more particularly be used. , "KSG-43", "KSG-44", by the company Shin Etsu, "DC9040", "DC9041", by the company Dow Corning, "SFE 839" by the company General Electric.

As spherical non-emulsifying elastomers, those sold under the names "DC 9040", "DC 9041", "DC 9509", "DC 9505", "DC 9506" by the company Dow Corning can be used,

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of a gel in which the crosslinked silicone elastomer is dispersed in a silicone oil such as a dimethicone, in particular an INCI name elastomer: DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE, such as reference KSG-6 from Shin Etsu.

According to another particular embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of a powder, in particular an elastomer of INCI name: DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as reference DC9506 from Dow Corning.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, different from the compounds of the invention, such as cosmetic active ingredients; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, C8-C40 esters and C8-C40 acids; moisturizing agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; pigments; loads other than aerogels; thickeners, polymeric or not; gelling agents such as cellulose derivatives and carbomers; emulsifiers; the perfumes ; conservatives ; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes; crosslinking agents such as polyphenols, aldehydes, and DHA.

The composition may of course include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

Depending on their nature and the destination of the composition, the usual cosmetic ingredients may be present in customary amounts, easily determinable by those skilled in the art, and which can be understood, in general, for each ingredient, of 0.01% at 80% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise exfoliating particles of average size ranging from 10 to 1500 μm.

By "exfoliating particles" or "scrubbing particles" is meant solid and abrasive particles capable of performing, when applied to the skin within an exfoliating composition, a mechanical exfoliation (also called scrubbing) of the dead cells of the cells. superficial layers of the epidermis.

In general, a scrub of the skin is typically performed by applying an exfoliating composition to the skin, massaging the skin coated with said composition, and then rinsing said composition. The exfoliating particles then act by friction on the skin. The skin is thus smoothed, the absorption of cosmetic active ingredients and cell renewal are favored.

Exfoliating particles may be exfoliating particles of mineral origin, such as sands, rocks, perlite or clays.

As exfoliating particles, it is also possible to use exfoliating particles of vegetable origin, such as cores, leaves, stems, algae, barks, dried fruits or roots.

As exfoliating particles, it is also possible to use exfoliant particles of organic origin, such as beads based on polyethylene or wax.

By "average size" of the exfoliating particles is meant the mean size expressed as mean diameter by volume (D [0.5]).

The average size of the exfoliating particles can be measured by static light scattering using a Mastervizer 2000 type commercial granulometer from Malvem. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The exfoliating particles used in the composition of the invention have an average size of from 10 to 1500 μm, preferably from 25 to 1000 μm, and preferably from 100 to 500 μm.

It is possible to use, for example, pearlite beads or powder, such as those sold under the name IMERCARE 270P-SCRUB or IMERCARE 400P-SCRUB or IMERCARE 800P-SCRUB by the company Imerys.

It is also possible to use for example the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MESH MN 711-20, or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or CERAPURE 106C COATHYLENE NB 6081 by the company Shamrock Technologies Dupont or FLOBEADS CL5007 from the company SETMITOMO SEIKA; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; shells of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut shells; sawdust, wood flour, cork flour; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina); sugar crystals (sucrose); beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed by the company Desert Whale; and their mixtures.

The exfoliating particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight. advantageously from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Within the composition of the invention, the mass ratio of the amount of hydrophobic silica airgel particles to the amount of exfoliating particles may be from 1:10 to 10: 1, and preferably from 1: 5 at 5: 1.

Preferably, the exfoliating particles are particles of pearlite, sugar, or fruit cores, in particular particles of pearlite and sugar. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a rinsable cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and then to be rinsed, preferably with water, or wiped off.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a care product and / or cleaning the skin of the body, face or lips.

It may find especially a particularly interesting application in the field of care and / or cleaning of the skin of the body and / or face.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a makeup remover for the face, a care product and / or a facial cleansing product such as a lotion, a mask or a scrub. for the face and / or the body, a shower gel, an exfoliating cream, an exfoliating fluid, or a scrub milk.

According to the invention, a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin of the body and / or face comprises a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention, and preferably a rinsing step, preferably with water, or wiping said composition.

The amount of composition to be applied to the skin can be determined according to the surface to be treated and the intensity of the desired treatment. The application step may last from 1 minute to 1 hour, the composition may be left in contact with the skin as in the case of a mask. At the end of the application, the composition is generally rinsed, typically with water when the composition is aqueous, or wiped.

The properties of the composition of the invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples of the scope of the invention.

EXAMPLES

Three formulations were prepared: Formulation 1, in accordance with the invention, comprising a mixture of polar oil and non-volatile silicone oil; Comparative Formulation 2, devoid of non-volatile silicone oil; and Formulation. 3 comparative, devoid of polar oil.

Each of the formulations was prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase A by heating at 75 ° C and homogenizing until solubilization. The heating was stopped and the ingredient of phase A2 was added. The resulting mixture was stirred until a fine emulsion was obtained. Then, the ingredients of phase B1 were introduced. The temperature of the emulsion was decreased to 45 ° C and the ingredients of the Cl phase were added. The resulting mixture was stirred until a smooth and homogeneous mixture was obtained. The ingredient from phase E was finally dispersed to obtain the formulation.

The properties of ease of application, ease of rinsability and skin softness after rinsing the formulations obtained were blind-tested on a sample of 20 people.

Application and Assessment Protocol

Each person applied a sample (500 mg) of each of the formulations to wet hands, then rinsed their hands under a trickle of warm water for each of the 20 people.

The "application", "rinsability" and "softness" performances were then evaluated according to the following criteria: - "application": evaluation of a homogeneous application, without clusters, on a wet skin (1 = few clusters, application optimal / 5 = many clusters, difficult application), - "rinsability": evaluation of the rinsing facility (speed and quantity of water to be used) after application (1 = difficult to rinse / 5 = easily rinsable, optimal performance) , and

- "softness": evaluation of the softness after rinsing and drying (1 = not soft, rough / 5 = very soft). Results

The results of the evaluations are as follows:

Formulation 1 according to the invention has significantly improved properties of application, rinsability and softness compared to Formulations 2 and 3 not in accordance with the invention.

Claims

1. Composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least: at least one polar oil, at least one silicone oil, preferably non-volatile, particles of hydrophobic silica airgel, and at least one surfactant or a mixture of surfactants, wherein the weight ratio of said (or said) oil (s) polar (s) on said (or said) oil (s) silicone (s) is greater than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the polar oil is chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based polar oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters and triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol. , and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

The composition of claim 2, wherein the polar oil is selected from the group consisting of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin , squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, shea butter and triglycerides of caprylic acids / capri that.

4. Composition according to claim 1, in which the polar oil is chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon polar oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic fatty acid, and branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polar oil or the mixture of polar oils is present in a proportion of 1% to 30% by weight, especially 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones and dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 Cst.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the silicone oil or the silicone oil mixture is present in a proportion of 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200. m2 / g and preferably 600 to 800 m2 / g.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured with WET POINT, ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and preferentially from 8 to 12 ml / g of particles.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have an average size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm preferably from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, advantageously from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a packed density ranging from 0.04 to 0.10 g / cm3 and preferably from 0.05 to 0, 08 g / cm3.

12. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume (Sy) ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and preferably from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are silylated silica airgel particles and in particular hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups. .

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles represent from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 5% by weight. , 1 to 5% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the surfactant or the surfactant mixture comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the surfactant or the surfactant mixture comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising: from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, of polar oil, in particular chosen from triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, of non-volatile silicone oil, in particular chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes; from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic silica airgel particles, preferentially surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, and from 0.1% to 20% by weight; % by weight of surfactant (s).

18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, further comprising water, preferably in a content of from 5 to 98% by weight, preferably from 20 to 95% by weight, preferably from 40 to 90% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it is free of water.

20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 characterized in that it is a rinsable cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and then to be rinsed, preferably with water, or wiped .

21. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 characterized in that it is in the form of a care product and / or cleaning the skin of the body, face or lips.

22. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 21 for the care and / or cleaning of the skin of the body and / or face.

23. Process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin of the body and / or the face, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 21, and preferably a rinsing step, preferentially to water, or wiping said composition.