FR3030272A1 - COSMETIC PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINIC MATERIALS USING ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY BODY AND A MICROEMULSION - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for treating keratinous substances, comprising applying to said materials: at least one anhydrous composition A comprising one or more liquid fatty substances and at least one composition B in the form of nano or microemulsion. The invention also relates to a package comprising at least two independent compartments respectively comprising each of said compositions and being adjusted to the distribution of the two compositions separately or in a mixture

Description

The subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials, in particular the skin, a product comprising two compositions and a device comprising two or more components. compartments. Emulsions of oil in water (O / W) or water in oil (W / O) are known in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products, such as as milks, creams, toners, serums or toilet waters. It is advantageous to have fine emulsions, that is to say, emulsions in which the oily phase is in the form of very small droplets, that is to say droplets of less than 4 μm in size. since these fine emulsions provide a pleasant cosmetic sensation and are generally more stable than coarse emulsions. In addition, a fine emulsion such as a microemulsion O / W is particularly interesting in cosmetics because of its transparent or slightly translucent appearance. These fine O / W emulsions, which consist of an oily phase (or a lipophilic phase) dispersed in an aqueous phase, allow a better solubility and bioavailability of the active ingredients in the skin. However, they have the disadvantage of leaving a sticky, rough finish due to the high level of surfactants. In addition, these emulsions often lack stability when the amount of oil present is high while, for some applications, it is advantageous to have a large amount of oils to provide comfort and nutrition for the skin.

One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide processes for the care of keratin materials, especially the skin with nano or microemulsions which do not have the disadvantages of those used with the existing compositions, disadvantages caused in particular by the presence of high levels of surfactants, while remaining at least as effective in terms of the activity of the possible active agents present in these nano or micoemulsions These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a cosmetic process method for treating keratin materials comprising applying to the keratin materials: a) an anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more liquid fatty substances, b) a composition (B) in the form of a nano or a microemulsion.

According to one embodiment, the compositions A and B are mixed extemporaneously and then the mixture is applied to the keratin materials. The invention also relates to a cosmetic product comprising, separately from one another, at least a first anhydrous composition A and a second composition B, in particular cosmetics, and in which: the first anhydrous composition A comprises one or more liquid fats and - the second composition B being in the form of nano or microemulsions. According to a particular embodiment, the first and second compositions are packaged separately from one another, but combined in a single packaging unit.

According to another embodiment, the first and second compositions are packaged separately from one another in separate packaging units. The present invention further relates to a set of packaging and dispensing compositions forming a product according to the invention, said set comprising at least two independent compartments respectively comprising each of said compositions A and B and being adjusted to the distribution of the two compositions separately or in admixture. According to an alternative embodiment, the mixture of the compositions is carried out within said assembly just before use and therefore before application to at least one keratin material, such as the skin. According to another embodiment, the mixture of the two compositions is made extemporaneously outside said assembly. either directly on the keratin materials, in particular the skin, to be the subject of the treatment.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field. The keratin materials treated by the process according to the invention are, for example, the skin and the hair, preferably the skin.

The method of the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a soft touch after application of the two compositions on keratin materials such as the skin. For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a cosmetic composition having a water content of less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight by weight. relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition. It should be noted that it is more particularly bound water, such as the water of crystallization of salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in producing the anhydrous compositions according to the invention. The anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more liquid fatty substances. As has been mentioned, the composition of the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances (at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1,013,105 Pa)). These liquid fats are generally called oils. By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.01310 5 Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%). even more preferably at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The fatty substances of the invention do not contain salified carboxylic acid groups. In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are not (poly) oxyalkylenated or (poly) glycerolated ethers. By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013 105 Pa). The term "non-silicone oil or non-fatty substance" means an oil or a fatty substance containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil or fatty substance" an oil or a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom . More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. Regarding the liquid hydrocarbons at 06-016, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic and preferably are alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof. The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleami, and their mixtures. As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower or corn oils. , soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® P03" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, different from the previously mentioned triglycerides; mention may in particular be made of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or poly acid esters, linear to Cl-026 or branched to 03-026 and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, linear to Cl-026 or branched to 03-026, the number total carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the the invention is branched. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate and ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids at 04-022 and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, alcohols. tetra or pentahydroxy in 02-026.

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of 6-030 fatty acid sugars, preferably 0-12-022. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated, linear or branched, 0-12-030 fatty acids, preferably or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters. More particularly, mono- and di-esters, and especially mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof are used. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

The silicones that may be used in the composition of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1.10-5 to 1m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 5 to 7 silicon atoms ,. This is, for example, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by TORAY SILICONE company. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFADIn this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes The liquid fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 alkanes and non-oxyalkylenated C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols. , C6-C30 fatty acid esters, C6-C30 fatty acid triglycerides, C6-C30 fatty alcohol esters, mineral oils of more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, animal oils or non-silicone synthetics, silicones, and mixtures thereof According to one embodiment, the liquid fatty substance (s) is (are) chosen from vegetable oils, (C6) fatty acid triglycerides. -C30, carbonates of C6-C20 fatty acids, esters of fatty acids or C6-C30 fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty substances are non-oxyalkylenated or non-glycerolated.

The anhydrous composition (A) comprises at least 60% of liquid fatty substances. Preferably, the concentration of fatty substance ranges from 70 to 100%, even more preferably from 80 to 100% of the total weight of composition A.

According to the invention the composition may also comprise non-liquid fatty substances such as waxes, non-salified fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition (A) may also comprise one or more thickeners. The thickeners may be organic or inorganic thickeners. The mineral thickeners may be chosen from clays, optionally modified, silicas, optionally modified, or mixtures thereof. The optionally modified clays are, for example, smectites such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites, beidellite and in particular synthetic hectorites (also called laponites), such as the products sold by Laporte under the name Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates); bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone HO by Rheox; magnesium and aluminum silicates, in particular hydrated silicates, such as the products sold by Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum ultra, Veegum HS and Veegum DGT, or else calcium silicates and in particular the synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C. The optionally modified silicas are, for example, the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R8126 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-5306 by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972ô, and Aerosil R974ô by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610ô and CAB-O-SIL TS-720ô by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Preferably, the mineral thickeners are chosen from lipophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobic treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof. The organic thickeners are in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers; More particularly, the thickener is a hydrocarbon block copolymer. The anhydrous composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one amorphous block (or block) hydrocarbon copolymer obtained by polymerization of at least one unsaturated hydrocarbon-type monomer comprising 2 to 5 carbon atoms and having one or two ethylenic unsaturations. These hydrocarbon block copolymers are preferably soluble or dispersible in the oily phase. They may be in particular diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star, or their mixtures. Such hydrocarbon-based block copolymers are for example described in application US 2002/005562 and in US Pat. No. 5,221,534. The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 ° C. preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C, preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C, more preferably less than or equal to -40 ° C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 ° C. and 20 ° C., in particular between -100 ° C. and 0 ° C. By "amorphous polymer" is meant a polymer that does not have a crystalline form.

The unsaturated hydrocarbon-type monomer comprising 2 to 5 carbon atoms and having one or two ethylenic unsaturations may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer. As an example of unsaturated hydrocarbon-type monomer comprising 2 to 5 unsaturated carbon atoms, there may be mentioned ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

Advantageously, the block-type hydrocarbon copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and of hydrocarbon monomer (s) comprising 2 to 5 carbon atoms and comprising one or two ethylenic unsaturations. Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and ethylene / C 3-4 alkylene blocks or isoprene blocks. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene copolymers. ethylene / butylene, styrene-isoprene copolymers. Diblock polymers are sold in particular under the name Kraton G1701E by Kraton Polymers. According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers. , styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kratonâ G1650, Kratonâ D1101, Kratonâ D1102, Kratonâ D1160 by Kraton Polymers. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, use may especially be made of a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene diblock copolymer, in particular those sold under the name Kraton G1657M by Kraton Polymers. According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock hydrogenated copolymer and ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer, such a mixture possibly being in isododecane or in a other oil. Such mixtures are for example sold by PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEC M5960 and VERSAGEC M5670. Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene-ethylene / propylene, as described above, is used as the block hydrocarbon copolymer.

The concentration of thickeners in the anhydrous composition (A) can range from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A), preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 5% in weight.

The anhydrous composition (A) may also comprise one or more surfactants, in particular nonionic surfactants. The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.

The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. The content of surfactants in the anhydrous composition (A) represents more particularly from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition. Preferably the anhydrous composition further comprises an organic solvent. As a solvent, mention may be made, for example, linear or branched alkanols, 02-04, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol , and their mixtures.

The anhydrous composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for the care of keratin materials, such as antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; preservatives; opacifying agents, dyes, fillers, especially lipid-soluble active agents such as vitamins in particular A, D, E). The process is carried out with a composition (B) in the form of nano or microemulsions.

The composition (B), preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of a nano- or microemulsion, preferably comprises; a) at least one fatty acid ester, preferably of 04-036 and (poly) glycerol; b) at least one polyol; C) at least one liquid fatty substance; d) water. More particularly, the composition (B), in the form of a nano- or microemulsion, comprises; a) at least one fatty acid ester of (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 glycerol units; b) at least one polyol; c) at least one liquid fatty substance; d) water. More particularly, the present invention relates to a composition, in the form of a nano- or microemulsion, comprising; b) at least two fatty acid esters of (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 different glycerol units, one of the other ; c) at least one polyol; d) at least one liquid fatty substance; e) water. Since the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, the composition can be used preferably for lotions and the like. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can produce a pleasant texture and provides moisturizing properties as well as increased flexibility. In addition, if the dispersed phase is an oily phase and comprises one or more lipophilic or even amphiphilic active components, the oily dispersed phase can function as a carrier of the active substance and accelerate the penetration of the active components into the skin, or can distribute the active components on the skin. The composition of the invention may be a cosmetic composition (either intended for cosmetic use) or dermatological. Preferably, according to the invention, the composition is a cosmetic composition and even more preferentially a cosmetic composition for topical application. The term "cosmetic composition" is understood to mean a substance or a preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body, in particular the epidermis, the hair and hair systems, the nails, the lips and the oral mucosa, in particular view, exclusively or mainly, to clean, embellish, perfume, change the appearance, protect, maintain or repair body odors. Fatty acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (a) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least a first fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol and at least a second ester of fatty acid and of (poly) glycerol, which are different from one another. 'other. The fatty acid and glycerol or polyglycerol esters used in the context of the present invention are nonionic surfactants which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one fatty acid ester of glycerol or polyglycerol, optionally polyoxyalkylenated. The (poly) glycerol esters according to the invention are glycerol esters (or mono-glyceryl esters) or polyglycerol esters (or polyglyceryl esters) such as diglyceryl (or diglycerol) esters. According to one embodiment, the (poly) glycerol ester according to the invention results from the esterification of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and a (poly) glycerol. In the context of the present invention, the term "(poly) glycerol" refers to glycerol or glyceryl polymers. In the case of a polymer, polyglycerol is generally a linear sequence of 2 to 22, preferably 2 to 12, glycerol units. In the context of the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylenated (poly) glycerol" corresponds to polyoxyalkylenated ethers of glycerol (or polyglycerol) and preferably polyoxyethylenated ethers (or polyethylene glycol). The esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of poly (glycerol) and carboxylic acid (s) C4-C36, preferably C4-C18, and more particularly C6 to C12, especially C7 to C10. In general, they are derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a poly (glycerol) with a carboxylic acid at 04-036, preferably at 04 to 018, and more particularly at 06 to 012. , in particular at 07 to 010. According to a particular embodiment, the esters that are suitable for the present invention may derive from the esterification of a poly (glycerol) with one or more carboxylic acids, which are identical or different. It may be a hydroxyl mono-ester, a hydroxyl di-ester, a hydroxyl tri-ester, or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 36 carbon atoms, and preferably from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 6 to 12 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, especially 7 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty acid is a saturated monocarboxylic fatty acid comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid. By way of illustration of examples of monocarboxylic acid which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of butaneic acid, pentanoic acid, hexanoic acid, heptandic acid, octandic acid and nonandic acid. decanoic acid, undecandic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecandic acid, heptadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid and pentadecandic acid and octadecanoic acid (stearic acid).

As representative of the branched acids, there may be mentioned more particularly isobutanoic acid, isopentandic acid, pivalic acid, isohexandic acid, isoheptandic acid, isooctandic acid, dimethyloctanoic acid, isononandic acid, isodecandic acid, isoundecanoic acid, isododecandic acid, isotridecandic acid, isotetradecanoic acid, isopentadecanoic acid, isohexadecandic acid, 2-ethylhexandic acid, 2-butyloctandic acid and 2-hexildecanoic acid. Also suitable for the present invention are hydroxy acids such as 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydropentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptandic acid, 2-hydroxyoctandic acid, 2- hydroxynonandic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytridecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid and 2-hydroxy-hexadecanyic acid.

It is more particularly a non-hydroxylated acid at 07 to 010 and more particularly heptandic acid, caprylic acid and capric acid. In the context of the present invention, mention may also be made of oxyalkylenated glycerol esters and in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl and fatty acid esters and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from glyceryl esters of hydrogenated and oxyethylenated fatty acids, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Tegosoft GO by Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by Goldschmidt; and their mixtures. Esters selected from the group consisting of mono- and / or di-glyceryl caprylate, mono- and / or di-glyceryl heptanoate, mono- and / or di-glyceryl caprylate, propylene glycol caprylate and heptanoate are particularly suitable for the invention. propylene glycol and mixtures thereof. It is more particularly monoglyceryl caprylate (also called glycerol caprylate) and its mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the (poly) glycerol ester according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl caprylate, polyglyceryl caprylate 1-3, polyglyceryl caprate 1-2, polyglyceryl caprate 1-3, polyglyceryl caprate 1-4, glyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl laurate 1-2, polyglyceryl laurate 1-5, polyglyceryl laurate-10, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl undecylenate, caprylate / glyceryl caprate, PG-4 laurate, PG-5 dilaurate, PG-5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG-6 tricaprylate, PG-5 myristate, PG-5 trimyristate, stearate of PG-5 PG-5, PG-5 isostearate, PG-5 trioleate, PG-6 caprylate, and PG-6 tricaprylate, decaglyceryl monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA names: polyglyceryl-10 stearate, distearate polyglyceryl-10, polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate), such as products marketed under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1S, 2S, 3S and 5S by Nikko, and the diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl stearate1-2), such as the product marketed by Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS. and their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises; at least one first fatty acid ester of (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 glycerol units; at least one second fatty acid ester of (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 glycerol units. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises; a first fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 8 to 16 atoms of carbon and 3 to 6 glycerol units, and / or - a second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol which is selected from a fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol formed of at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and from 1 to 4 glycerol units. In a particularly advantageous manner, the composition according to the invention comprises; as the first fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol, polyglyceryl laurate 1 - 5, and / or - as the second fatty acid ester and (poly) is polyglery laurate 1-2 and / or the caprate The polyglyceryl laurate 1-5 is available under the trade name Sunsoft A-121C-C from the company Taiyo Kagaku Polyglery laurate 1-2 is available under the trade name SUNSOFT Q-12D-C® by In the compositions according to the invention, the total amount of the fatty acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (a) may be present in a content ranging from 0.50% to 20%. % by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition Polyol (c) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one Polyol According to the invention, the term "polyol" is intended to mean a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably at least 2 carbon atoms. from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and bearing at least two hydroxy groups. The polyols used in the present invention may have a weight average molecular weight less than or equal to 1000, preferably between 90 and 500. The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol may be selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol, in particular having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and a mixture thereof. More particularly, the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.

The said polyol (s) may be present in a content ranging from 2% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 15% to 30% by weight.

Liquid Fatty Body (c) The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil (d). According to the present invention, an "oil" refers to a compound or fatty substance (se) which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

It is preferred that the oil (d) be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, castor oil, oil, and the like. olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil and mixtures thereof. As examples of animal oils, it may be mentioned, for example, squalene and squalane.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkanes such as isododecane and isohexadecane, fatty esters, fatty ethers, and artificial 06 -022 acid triglycerides. The fatty esters are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 26 aliphatic polyacids or polyacids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the fatty esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched. Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate. Esters of 4-022 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or non-carbohydric pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. to be used. It can be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate; isopropyllauryl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate. As fatty esters, it is possible to use fatty acid esters and diesters of fatty acids at 06-030 and preferably at 0-12-022. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon-based compounds containing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The fatty acid esters of sugar may be chosen, in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and of fatty acids containing 0 to 6 0 0 0 0 and preferably 0 12 to 0 12 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated double bonds. Esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed oleopalmitate esters. , oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate. More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example that can be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol company, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As preferred examples of fatty esters, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate , octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetra (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri ( glyceryl caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate / caprylate / linolenate). According to the invention it is also possible to use carbonates of 06018 acids such as dioctyl carbonate.

As examples of silicone oils, there may be mentioned, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

Volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes may be used. The hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid paraffin gel, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleami, and squalane. As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (eg liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalenes , and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane; and mixtures thereof. It is also preferable that the oil (d) is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

Preferably, the oil (d) is chosen from fatty esters having a C1-C12 hydrocarbon chain or chains (for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate). ), hydrocarbon oils (eg, isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated 0-12-030 fatty alcohol oils such as octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, fatty ethers such as dicaprylyl ether. In a particularly preferred manner, the oil (c) is chosen from ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate. Ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate is available under the trade name ETHYL-2 HEXYL PALMITATE (DUB P0) 0 from STEARINERIE DU BOIS.

The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the oil (s) (c) may be present in a content of 0.50% to 50% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (a) and the liquid fatty substance (s) (c) are present in a composition according to the invention. as defined above, in a mass ratio [total amount of fatty acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (a) / liquid fatty substance (s) (c)] which ranges from 0.50 to 10 preferably from 1 to 5. Water (d) The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water.

The amount of water (d) is not limited, and may range from 40 to 99% by weight, preferably from 55 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, based on the weight total of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one 02-04 monohydric alcohol. The 02-04 monohydric alcohols comprise a hydroxy group and 2 to 4 carbon atoms. Ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof can be used. The 02-04 monohydric alcohol is preferably ethanol. The concentration of 02-04 monohydric alcohol can range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant different from the ester (s) of fatty acid and (poly) glycerol (b) as defined above.

The amount of the additional surfactant (s) may be from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 0.10% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% by weight. by weight at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent. The thickening agent may be chosen from organic and inorganic thickeners. The thickening agent is preferably selected from associative thickeners and polysaccharides such as starch and xanthan gum. The viscosity of the composition B according to the present invention is not particularly limited. The viscosity can be measured at 25 ° C with viscometers or rheometers preferably having a cone-plane geometry. Preferably, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention can be, for example, from 1 to 2000 Pa.s, and preferably from 1 to 1000 Pa.s at 25 ° C and 1 s-1. The thickener may be present in an amount in the range of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, for example from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (B) further comprises one or more active agents, such as anti-aging agents, depigmenting agents, anti-aging agents, bleaching agents, anti-oily agents, moisturizing agents. Preferably, the active agent (s) are chosen from C-glycosides, salicylic acid and its derivatives such as N-octanoyl salicylic acid and mixtures thereof. The C-glycosides are preferably of the following general formula (I): XR s - / (I) in which: R denotes a saturated linear C 1 to C 6, in particular C 1 to C 4, preferably C 1 to C 2, alkyl, and more preferably, a methyl radical.

S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and especially D-xylose. X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2) -, and preferentially a -CH (OH) group - the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which may be a or [3, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometrical isomers. Among the alkyl groups suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned especially methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl groups. cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl. Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of organic acid salts, which may comprise one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid or phosphonic acid groups. It may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may additionally comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. When the compound of formula (1) has an acidic group, the neutralization of the acidic group (s) can be carried out by a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2, NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2; or with an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; there may be mentioned amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine. Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed in the last step of preparing said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

According to a first embodiment, preferably a C-glycoside derivative of formula (I) is used in which: - R denotes a linear unsubstituted C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, in particular Cl-O 2, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide as described above and in particular chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2) -, and preferentially a -CH (OH) - group.

According to one embodiment, CpD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and preferably CpD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, may advantageously be used for preparation of a composition according to the invention. According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside compound may be CpD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (or HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDRO PYRANTRIOL) in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight). [Other components] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise an effective amount of other components, previously known elsewhere in particular cosmetic compositions, such as various adjuvants, sequestering agents such as EDTA and the acid. etidronic, anti-UV agents, preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, for example, panthenol, opacifiers, perfumes, plant extracts, etc. Preparation of the Composition (B) The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional components according to a conventional method. The conventional method comprises mixing with a high pressure homogenizer (a high energy process). Alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be prepared by a low energy process such as a phase inversion temperature (PIT) method, a phase inversion concentration (PIC), autoemulsification, and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is prepared by a low energy process. In a particular embodiment, the mass ratio between the total amount of the ester (s) of fatty acid and (poly) glycerol (a)) and liquid fatty substance (c) in a composition according to the invention such as defined above, ranges from 0.50 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or microemulsion. The "microemulsion" can be defined in two ways, that is, in a broad sense and in a more restricted sense. Namely, in one case ("micro-emulsion in the narrow sense"), the microemulsion denotes a thermodynamically stable single isotropic liquid phase containing a ternary system having three components comprising an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the other case ("micro-emulsion in the broad sense"), among the typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, the microemulsion further comprises emulsions having transparent or translucent aspects due to their smaller particle sizes ( Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, 37, 11 (1988), 48-53). "Microemulsion" in the present context refers to a "microemulsion in the restricted sense", i.e., a thermodynamically stable single isotropic liquid phase.

The microemulsion denotes a state of an O / W (oil in water) type microemulsion in which the oil is solubilized by micelles, a W / H type microemulsion (water in the water). oil) in which the water is solubilized by inverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules is brought to be infinite so that the aqueous phase and the oily phase both have a continuous structure. The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number average diameter of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, and more preferably 20 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size.

The "nanoemulsion" currently refers to an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase having a size of less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a ring of the nonionic surfactant (b) which can optionally form a lamellar-type liquid crystal phase , at the disperse phase / continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of the nanoemulsions is due to the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size can be obtained through the use of mechanical energy and in particular a high pressure homogenizer. Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. Specifically, the microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed, for example, swollen micelles of nonionic surfactant (a) with the liquid fatty substance (c). In addition, the microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy to be prepared.

The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number average diameter of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size. The cosmetic composition (B) according to the present invention may be in the form of a nano- or micro-O / W emulsion, an nano- or microemulsion W / O or a bicontinuous emulsion. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or microemulsion O / W. It is preferred that the composition (B) according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion. The average size of the oily phase droplets is measured concentrated by dynamic light scattering (DDL) with a VASCO granulometer. These measurements are performed on the undiluted emulsion.

The number average size (pm) of the oily phase droplets of the composition of the invention is less than 300 nm and preferably 10 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably 20 nm to 100 nm. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance. Transparency can be measured by measuring the transmission factor with an absorption spectrometer in the visible region (for example, transparency is measured with a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25 ° C. The portable turbidimeter uses the nephelometric measurement principle of Turbidity The nephelometric turbidity measurement depends on the detection of the light dispersed by the particles in suspension in the liquid The unit of measurement is the NTU A round bowl 60 x 25 cm made of borosilicate glass with a stopper is used. The required amount of sample is 15 mL The measuring range is 0- 1000 NTU The samples are measured undiluted.

The composition (B) according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity of between 1 and 200 NTU and preferably between 5 and 150 NTU.

Usually, the pH of the composition (B) is less than 7 and preferably is from 3 to 6.5. According to the invention, compositions A and B have similar viscosities.

According to another variant, a composition obtained by mixing, either extemporaneously before application to the keratin materials, or simultaneously with its application to the keratin materials at the time of application, is applied to dry or wet keratin materials, preferably dry. use, the anhydrous composition (A) and the composition (B).

According to this embodiment, the weight ratio of the amounts of (A) / (B) varies from 0.1 to 5, preferably from 0.2 to 2, better still from 0.3 to 1.5, and more particularly from 0 to , 8 to 1.2 and even more preferably 1.

At the end of the treatment, the keratin materials are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed and rinsed with water, before being dried or allowed to dry. Preferable keratin materials are the skin.

Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous composition (A), and in a second, an aqueous composition (B) in the form of nano or microemulsion, these compositions having been described previously.

According to one embodiment, the first and second compositions are packaged separately in separate sets of packages and can be marketed separately or within the same product as defined above.

According to another embodiment, the first and second compositions are packaged separately one in the other, but joined in a single package. Thus, the invention also relates to a packaging assembly.

More particularly, this set comprises at least: i. a first compartment containing a first anhydrous composition A defined above ii. a second compartment containing a second composition B, said second compartment being sealed from the first, and iii. means for allowing the contacting, in particular extemporaneous, of the two compositions. Such a set advantageously allows the extemporaneous contact of its two compositions, separately packaged respectively in the first and second compartments forming said assembly. This set may also be provided with means allowing the communication of the first and second compartments and therefore of their respective contents. The assembly is also advantageously provided with a means conducive to the distribution of the mixture of the two compositions. More specifically, the compositions A and B used for the implementation of the invention are packaged separately inside two compartments, formed either by two separate containers or inside a unitary device. By "unitary device" is meant a device by which the two compartments are integral with each other. Such a device can be obtained by a method of molding in one piece of the two compartments, in particular a thermoplastic material. It can also result from any form of assembly, especially by gluing, welding, or other snap. According to a first embodiment, the two containers are independent of one another. Such containers may be in various forms. This may include tubes, bottles or cans. One and / or the other of the containers may be surmounted by a manually operated pump surmounted by a push button for the actuation of the pump and the distribution of the composition via at least one dispensing orifice and preferably two (one for each of the compositions). The containers may be made of various materials: plastic, glass, or metal. According to a preferred embodiment, the two compositions are contained within a unitary device. Alternatively still, the two compartments are formed of two concentric compartments formed inside a tube, and optionally are surmounted by a pump without air intake equipped with a push button with one or two dispensing orifices. Inside the tube may be provided a piston that goes up towards the pump as the compositions are taken from the inside of the containers. Still other devices can be used for the practice of the present invention, the essential being that they can allow the separate packaging of the two compositions and their distribution separately or in mixture. By way of example, the two compositions are packaged inside two compartments formed inside a single flexible bag, the two compartments being separated by a rupture zone which can be broken at the moment of use. , in particular in response to pressure exerted at a specific location of the bag. The invention therefore relates in particular to an assembly, wherein the compositions A and B are packaged inside two compartments formed by two separate containers.

For example, devices as described in documents US Pat. No. 5,833,121, US Pat. No. 4,773,562 and US Pat. No. 6,672,483 may be used. For example, the dual-compartment tube-type packaging, for example the dual tube, may be used. 25 from Alcan packaging.

The present invention further relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as care products and / or make-up products and / or makeup removers for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes. and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyelids. The care product may be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a sunscreen, and the like. The cleaning product may be a shampoo, a facial cleanser, a hand cleaner, and the like. The makeup product may be a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blush, an eye shadow, a nail polish, and the like. The makeup remover may be a makeup cleaner and the like.

Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ...", or "at least", or "at least .." must be understood as inclusive, unless otherwise is specified.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Anhydrous Composition A CETEARYLE ISONONANOATE COPOLYMER DIBLOC STYRENE / ETHYLENE-4,5-PROPYLENE (37/63) (Kraton G1701E by Kraton Polymers) ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 15 MIXTURE OF CORIANDER OILS, 1 MACADAMIA, OF JOJOBA, PASSION FRUIT SEEDS AND APRICOT CORE CARBONATE DIOCTYLE 35 APRICOT CHALLENGE OIL 2.5 2-HEXYLDECAN-1-0L 8 MUSCAT ROSIER OIL 5 Color 0.08 MIXTURE OF TRIGLYCERIDES CAPRIENT ACID / CAPRIQUE QSP 100% MICROEMULSION Composition microemulsion The following microemulsion was prepared POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE (TAIYO KAGAKU SUNSOFT A-121E-C) 4 sodium hydroxide 0.048 1,3-butylene glycol 17 Ethanol 5 Hyaluronate sodium 0.55 n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid 0.3 POLYGLYCERYL-2 CAPRATE (SUNSOFT Q-12D-C from -TAIYO KAGAKU) 2 2 -phenoxyethanol 0.5 octane-1,2-diol 0.5 C- Beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in 30% solution in water / 1,2-propane diol 60/40 3% MA Glycerin 7 Ethy1-2-hexy l Perfume qs Deionized water qs 100% Composition B is prepared as follows: (1) mixture of ethylhexyl myristate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate and polyglyceryl laurate 1-5 to form an oily phase; (2) heating the oil phase to about 60 ° C; (3) mixture of water, polyol and C-glycoside and (4) addition of the aqueous phase in the oily phase with stirring to obtain an O / W microemulsion. (5) addition of perfumes, preservatives and ethanol.

The two compositions are packaged in the same quantity in two separate compartments of a dual compartment dual pump bottle type packaging (Albee uu, 1) .The two compositions come out simultaneously and mix when applied to the skin.

It has been found that applying the mixture to the skin provides a soft, non-greasy final feel.

Claims (19)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic process for treating keratinous substances comprising applying to said materials: at least one anhydrous composition A comprising one or more liquid fatty substances, and at least one composition B in the form of nano or microemulsion. 10 2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises at least 60% of liquid fatty substances, preferably from 70 to 100% by weight, more preferably from 80 to 100% of the total weight. of the anhydrous composition A. 15 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 alkanes, non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, sodium esters and the like. fatty alcohol, mineral oils of more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable, animal or non-silicone synthetic oils, silicones ,. 20 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from vegetable oils, C6-C30 acid triglycerides, C6-C20 fatty acid carbonates, esters of fatty acids or C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, more particularly chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or poly-substituted nonionic surfactants. glycerolated. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more thickeners. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more styrene / ethylene / propylene block hydrocarbon copolymers. 8. Method according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the thickener or thickeners are present from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 25 30 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous composition (B) comprises a) at least one fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol, preferably at least one fatty acid ester. and (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 glycerol units, b) at least one polyol; C) at least one liquid fatty substance; d) water. 10. Method according to the preceding claim wherein the aqueous composition (B) comprises at least two fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol (b) different from each other, preferably at least two esters of fatty acid and (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 glycerol units different from each other. 11. Process according to claim 10, characterized in that the first fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol (b) are chosen from a fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 glycerol units and / or in that the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol (c) is selected from an ester of fatty acid and (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and from 1 to 4 glycerol units. The process according to any one of claims 9 to 11, wherein the total amount of the fatty acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (a) is (are) present in a content from 0.50% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition B is in the form of an O / W emulsion, and the liquid fatty substance is in the form of droplets having a mean particle size in number of 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm. 14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that is applied to the keratin materials such as the skin, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, the anhydrous composition (A). and composition (B). 15. A multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment, the anhydrous composition (A) according to one of claims 1 to 8, in another compartment a composition (B) as defined in one of claims 9 to 13. 16. Cosmetic product comprising, separately from each other, at least a first composition A according to one of claims 1 to 8 and a second composition according to one of claims 9 to 13. 10 17. Product according to the preceding claim, wherein the first and second compositions are packaged separately from one another, but combined in a single package. 18. A product according to any of claims 16 or 17, wherein the first and second compositions are packaged separately from one another in separate packaging units. 19. A packaging and dispensing assembly of the product forming compositions according to any one of claims 16 to 18, said assembly comprising at least two independent compartments respectively comprising each of said compositions and being adjusted to the distribution of the two compositions separately. or in mixture.