CN111601580B - Solid anhydrous composition comprising a hydrophobic polymer for removing make-up from the skin - Google Patents
Solid anhydrous composition comprising a hydrophobic polymer for removing make-up from the skin Download PDFInfo
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- CN111601580B CN111601580B CN201780097935.8A CN201780097935A CN111601580B CN 111601580 B CN111601580 B CN 111601580B CN 201780097935 A CN201780097935 A CN 201780097935A CN 111601580 B CN111601580 B CN 111601580B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/88—Polyamides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
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Abstract
The present invention relates to solid anhydrous compositions particularly useful for skin cleansing and makeup removal, more particularly comprising bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimer linoleate copolymer, and to cosmetic methods of cleansing and/or makeup removal on keratin materials using said compositions.
Description
The present invention relates to solid anhydrous compositions comprising hydrophobic polymers, particularly useful for cleansing keratin materials and/or for removing makeup from keratin materials.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleaning and/or removing makeup on keratin materials using said composition.
In the field of cleansing and/or makeup removing compositions, "soft solid" compositions constitute a class of products that are favored by consumers for their cleansing efficacy, makeup removal, rinsing ability, and their cosmetic qualities (soft, dry feel, ease of use, etc.). They are known as solid compositions which soften under stress, such as by application to the skin surface or for example by extrusion from a device having porous walls (grille).
The consumer pursues a "soft solid" composition for cleansing the skin and/or removing makeup that does not leave any residue on the skin and leaves a fresh skin appearance (skin finish) and that is simultaneously easy to apply to the skin.
Some known soft solid compositions useful for cleansing skin and/or removing makeup comprise silica aerogel particles, waxes, hydrocarbon-based oils, and nonionic surfactants.
However, there remains a need for solid compositions suitable for cleansing the skin and/or removing makeup with improved properties.
In particular, there remains a need for improved solid compositions that can be applied easily and quickly, i.e. easily spread on the skin, and it is desirable that these compositions do not leave any greasy feel to the skin.
None of the prior art discloses soft solid compositions providing improved use properties as described above and having good stability over time.
It is an object of the present invention to provide solid anhydrous compositions having good efficacy such as makeup removal and rinsing capabilities and having improved cosmetic properties such as ease of use.
It is an object of the present invention to provide such a composition as described above which does not have a greasy feel on the skin after application.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition as described above with good stability over time.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide solid and anhydrous compositions that are easily carried in the device, in particular for removing make-up from the skin.
Optionally, it is an object of the present invention to provide a solid anhydrous composition having all of the above properties while exhibiting a pleasing transparent appearance.
The present invention thus relates to a solid anhydrous composition comprising:
a) At least one hydrophobic polymer selected from the group consisting of ester-terminated poly (ester-amides) and mixtures thereof;
b) At least one hydrocarbon-based oil; and
c) At least two nonionic surfactants, wherein one of them is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing at least 5 glycerol groups.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying at least one composition according to the invention on the surface of the keratin materials.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleaning and/or removing makeup on keratin materials, comprising a step of applying at least one composition according to the invention on the surface of the keratin materials, in particular the skin.
The inventors have found that with the composition according to the invention the spreadability and application properties on keratin materials are improved compared to other solid compositions, less time is required to melt and apply the composition.
In addition, the skin appearance (skin finish) is also improved, and no greasy feel is present after rinsing.
In addition, the composition is stable over time.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be transparent, thereby giving the composition a pleasant appearance.
According to the invention, the composition has the desired hardness to be suitable in the form of a pot, a device equipped with a mesh wall, a device equipped with a ball applicator, or in the form of a stick (hands or sticks).
Definition of the definition
The term "solid" composition refers to the form of the composition at 20 ℃, in particular, the term "solid" refers to a hardness of greater than or equal to 30 Nm at 20 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) when measured according to the protocol described below -1 Is a composition of (a).
The hardness of the solid composition was measured according to the following protocol.
The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20℃for 24 hours before the hardness is measured. Hardness can be measured at 20 c by the "cheese wire" method, which involves cutting a product rod, preferably a cylinder, by means of a tungsten carbide wire with a diameter of 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the rod at a speed of 100 mm/min.
Measured in Nm using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Indelco-Chatillon company -1 The hardness of a sample of the composition of the invention is shown.
This measurement was repeated three times, and then an average value was taken. The average of the three values read using the tensile tester described above (designated Y) is given in grams. This average value is converted to newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance the wire has travelled. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
The hardness was converted to Nm by the following equation -1 ：
(Y × 10 -3 × 9.8)/L。
For measurements at different temperatures, the bars were stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before measurement.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention has a content of greater than or equal to 40 Nm -1 More preferably 50 Nm -1 To 300 Nm -1 Even more preferably 60 Nm -1 To 120 Nm -1 Is a hardness of (c).
The term "anhydrous composition" refers to a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water or even less than 0.5% of water, in particular no water, which is not added during the preparation of the composition but corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
"rinsing ability" may mean that the composition of the present invention is easily rinsed off with water after application to the skin.
"non-greasy feel" may mean that the skin feels dry and fresh after rinsing off the composition of the invention. In one embodiment, the skin is free of greasy or waxy feel after rinsing off the composition of the present invention.
By "spreadability" it is meant that the composition is easy to apply and/or spread on keratin materials (solid compositions "melt" when applied to keratin materials).
The term "keratin materials" refers to the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes (of the body, face and periocular), preferably the skin.
The term "transparent" may be expressed by the turbidity of the composition of the invention, which may be measured at room temperature according to NTU method using a 2100P-type turbidimeter from HACH company.
Advantageously, the solid anhydrous compositions of the present invention have a turbidity of less than 400 NTU units, preferably less than 200 NTU units, more preferably from 1 to 100 NTU units.
Detailed Description
The composition of the present invention aims to solve the problems as exemplified above.
More particularly, the compositions of the present invention are solid anhydrous compositions for cleaning and/or removing make-up on keratin materials.
Preferably, the composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular from the skin. In a particular embodiment, the make-up is removed from the facial skin.
In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is transparent.
Hydrophobic polymers
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from the group consisting of ester-terminated poly (ester-amides).
"hydrophobic" may refer to water repellent, i.e., water-immiscible, polymers.
An "ester-terminated" polymer may refer to a polymer comprising at least one chemically functional ester (Ra-C (O) -O-R' a) as a terminal moiety. For example, such polymers and methods for their preparation are described in WO 02/092663 patent application.
In one embodiment, the polymer comprises at least one optionally hydrogenated dimer linoleate (dimer dilinoleate) unit. Preferably, the hydrophobic polymer is a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimerized linoleate copolymer. Mention may be made in particular of Arizona chemical with Sylvaclear ™ C75V is the name or Croda, inc. bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimerized linoleate copolymer sold under the name OleoCraft LP-20, also known as polyamide-8 (CAS RN 678991-29-2).
In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises only one hydrophobic polymer. In a particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are free of ester-terminated polyamide polymers, such as ethylene diamine stearyl alcohol dimer linoleate copolymer.
In one embodiment, the amount of hydrophobic polymer is from 1 wt% to 20 wt% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 wt% to 15 wt%, for example about 10 wt% of the total weight of the composition.
Hydrocarbon-based oils
According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, 105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that can evaporate in less than 1 hour when in contact with skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are liquids at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 to Pa Pa (10 -3 To 300 mmHg), particularly from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term "fixed oil" means a composition which remains on the skin or keratin fibres at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular has a content of less than 10 -3 Vapor pressure oil of mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The oil according to the invention is preferably selected from any cosmetically acceptable oil, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils or mixtures thereof.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic acid functions. Typically, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100 000 mpa.s, preferably 50 to 50 000 mpa.s, more preferably 100 to 300 mpa.s.
As examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of:
-a C selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular of petroleum origin 8 -C 16 Isoparaffins (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, such as the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C 8 -C 16 Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of esters and isohexyl pivalate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold by Shell company under the name Shell Solt; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from Cognis.
As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of:
-hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydro squalene;
hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic acid or caprylic acid triglycerides, or wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, cucurbit oil (marrow oil), black vinegar-corn oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, chestnut oil (candlenut oil), passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by St argines Dubois company or those sold by the company dynamic Nobel under the name Miglyol 810, 812 and 818, jojoba oil and shea butter,
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, and squalane,
-synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, for example of formula R 1 COOR 2 Wherein R is 1 Represents a straight-chain or branched higher fatty acid residue having 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 Represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, wherein R 1 + R 2 Not less than 10, e.g. duck tail oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C benzoate 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate (tridecyl trimellitate); alcohol or polyol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for example propylene glycol dioctanoates; hydroxylated esters, e.g. isostearyl lactateEsters, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoate, octanoate, or decanoate; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate,
fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, having branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chains having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol,
higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
-a carbonate;
-an acetate;
-citrate esters.
In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from C of petroleum origin 8 -C 16 Isoalkane, branched C 8 -C 16 Esters and isohexyl pivalate, fixed oils or vegetable oils of animal origin based on hydrocarbons, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25 ℃, higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, carbonic acid esters, acetic acid esters, citric acid esters and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from synthetic fatty acid esters.
In a particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from:
-a C selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular of petroleum origin 8 -C 16 Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene and squalene; and
-the synthesis of fatty acid esters,
and mixtures thereof.
Using the hydrocarbon-based oils mentioned above, the composition according to the invention is advantageously transparent.
In another particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from the group consisting of synthetic fatty acid esters such as cetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C-benzoate 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; alcohol or polyol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for example propylene glycol dioctanoates; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoate, octanoate or decanoate; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, or mixtures thereof.
As examples of oils suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as synthetic esters. Mention may be made of oils such as 2-ethylhexyl Palmitate, sold under the trade name Palmitate D' ethyl 2 Hexyle by company Stearinerie Dubois, or Cegesoft sold by BASF ® C24。
Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is a synthetic fatty acid ester, more preferably 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.
In one embodiment, the amount of hydrocarbon-based oil in the composition is from 40 wt% to 98 wt% of the total weight of the composition; preferably 50 to 80 wt%, more preferably 55 to 70 wt%, for example about 65 wt% of the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic surfactant
Surfactants are typically amphiphilic organic compounds, meaning that they contain a hydrophobic group (their tail) and a hydrophilic group (their head). "nonionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that has no charged groups on its head (i.e., the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral).
The composition of the present invention comprises at least two nonionic surfactants wherein one of them is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing at least 5 glycerol groups.
According to one embodiment, the fatty acid esters of polyglycerols (also referred to as polyglycerol fatty acid esters, PGFE) suitable for use in the present invention are compounds of formula (I),
formula (I)
Wherein:
r represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 5 -C 30 A fatty chain;
n is an integer from 5 to 30.
Preferably, for the purposes of the present invention, in formula (I),
r represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 17 A fatty chain of the fatty acid and the fatty acid,
n is an integer from 5 to 20, preferably from 5 to 16.
Examples of suitable PGFE surfactants are polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 dimyristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 dilaurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 trimyristate, polyglycerol-5 oleate or polyglycerol-5 dioleate, polyglycerol-5 stearate.
More particularly, fatty acid esters of polyglycerols suitable for use in the present invention are compounds selected from the group consisting of: polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 oleate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate or mixtures thereof.
These compounds are commercially available. For example, compounds sold by Nikkol corporation under the following trade names may be mentioned: sunsoft A-12E (polyglyceryl-5 laurate), sunsoft A-14E (polyglyceryl-5 myristate), sunsoft A-17E (polyglyceryl-5 oleate), sunsoft A-18E (polyglyceryl-5 stearate), sunsoft Q-10Y (polyglyceryl-10 caprate), sunsoft Q-12Y (polyglyceryl-10 laurate), sunsoft Q-14S (polyglyceryl-10 myristate), nikkol Decaglyn 1-OV (polyglyceryl-10 oleate), and Sunsoft Q-18Y (polyglyceryl-10 stearate).
In a particular embodiment, polyglycerol-10 oleate is used in the composition of the invention.
The composition according to the invention comprises a second nonionic surfactant different from the fatty acid esters of polyglycerols as described above.
Examples of second suitable nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include oxidized alkylene fatty acid glycerides, oxidized alkylene fatty acid sorbitan esters, oxidized alkylene or non-oxidized alkylene ethers of fatty alcohols and polyols, and mixtures thereof.
According to the present invention, the alkylene oxide chain of the alkylene oxide fatty acid glyceride is preferably an oxyethylene chain.
More preferably, it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 alkylene oxides, especially oxyethylene groups, preferably from 2 to 100 alkylene oxides, especially oxyethylene groups.
Examples of oxidized alkylene fatty acid glycerides which may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate and mixtures thereof.
As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of PEG-20 triisostearate, such as those sold under the trade name Emalex Gwis-320EX by Nihon Emulsion company.
Other types of surfactants that may be mentioned more particularly include:
oxyethylenated fatty acid sorbitan esters, such as (INCI name) polysorbate 20, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan heptaoleate (sorbitan septaoleate), PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;
fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as (INCI name) PEG-8 stearate, PEG-6 oleate, PEG-6 isostearate, PEG-12 diisostearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-8 diisostearate or PEG-10 isostearate;
oxyethylated, in particular oxyethylated and/or oxypropylated, more in particular oxyethylated, fatty alkyl ethers, such as cetostearyl ether-12 and cetostearyl ether-20 (INCI name), and mixtures containing them, such as the mixtures sold by Cognis under the name Emulgade CM (mixture of cetostearyl isononanoate, cetostearyl ether-20, cetostearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, cetostearyl ether-12 and cetyl palmitate);
-and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the amount of nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the invention is from 1% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, for example about 15% by weight.
Auxiliary agent
In a known manner, the compositions according to the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH regulators (acidic or basic), fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes), film-forming polymers, further surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, cationic or nonionic surfactants; additional oils such as silicone oils or fluoro oils, thickening and/or gelling agents, and active ingredients.
The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil that contains carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom in its structure.
The term "fluoro oil" refers to partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based oils that contain carbon and fluorine atoms.
As examples of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic non-volatile Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups (these groups containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms) on the side or at the end of the silicone chain; polyphenylsiloxanes, such as phenyltrimethylsiloxane, phenyldimethylsiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxane, diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional further compounds and/or their amounts such that the addition considered does not or substantially does not adversely affect the properties of the composition according to the invention.
Galenical forms (Galenical forms)
The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, balms (balms), hair oils or gels, the hardness of which may vary with the desired use, the area of human keratin materials to be treated and the desired conditioning.
The composition according to the invention may be suitable for use in a can; in devices equipped with a mesh wall (open-work wall), in particular a grille; in devices equipped with ball applicators ("roll-on"); in the form of sticks (wands or sticks). In this respect they contain the ingredients commonly used in this type of product, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, based on the total weight of the composition:
-1 to 20 wt% of at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amides);
-1 to 30 wt% of at least two nonionic surfactants, wherein one of them is a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol containing at least 5 glycerol groups; and
-at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
More particularly, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for cleansing and/or cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, based on the total weight of the composition:
-5 to 12 wt% of at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amides);
-1 to 20% by weight of at least two nonionic surfactants, each selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing at least 5 glycerol groups and oxyalkylenated fatty acid glycerides; and
-at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises:
bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimer linoleate copolymer,
synthetic fatty acid esters, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and
-a nonionic surfactant which is a mixture of polyglycerol-10 oleate and PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate.
In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises, based on the total weight of the composition:
10% by weight of a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimerized linoleate copolymer,
-2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and
5% by weight of PEG-20 triisostearate and 5% by weight of polyglycerol-10 oleate.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises the application on the surface of the keratin materials of at least one composition as defined above.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising the application on the surface of the keratin materials of at least one composition as defined above.
The composition according to the invention has improved spreadability, makeup removal, rinsing and skin appearance (skin finish).
Furthermore, the composition has the desired hardness to be suitable in the form of a pot, a device equipped with a mesh wall, a device equipped with a ball applicator, or a stick (hands or sticks).
In this patent application, the amounts are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition, unless explicitly stated otherwise.
The following examples are intended to illustrate compositions and methods according to the present invention, but are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.
Unless otherwise noted, all parts and percentages in the examples are given on a weight basis, and all measurements are obtained at about 25 ℃.
Examples
EXAMPLE 1 preparation example
The following formulations were prepared as follows:
comparative formulation 2 polyglycerol-10 oleate was replaced by polyglycerol-3 diisostearate;
comparative formulation 3 polyglycerol-10 oleate was replaced by polyglycerol-4 diisostearate.
EXAMPLE 2 evaluation example
The above formulations were evaluated for stability, ease of application, removal of make-up, rinsing ability and skin feel after application.
The stability of the formulations of the invention and the comparative formulations was evaluated. All formulations of the invention and comparative formulations were stored at room temperature (about 20 ℃) for 2 months.
These formulations were tested by X consumers on the forearm as make-up removers, respectively. A score of 1 to 5 is then given for each property. The average of the scores was calculated. A score of greater than or equal to 3 represents the desired property, while a score of less than 3 represents a poor property.
The results are listed herewith.
| Examples | Easy application (application) | Make-up removal capability | Flushing capacity | No residual feeling | Stability of |
| Formulation 1 of the invention | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | Stabilization |
| Comparative formulation 2 | 3 | 5 | 2 | 1 | Unstable state |
| Comparative formulation 3 | 3.4 | 5 | 2.4 | 1.6 | Unstable state |
In summary, formulation 1 of the present invention provides improved stability compared to comparative formulations 2 and 3. Furthermore, formulation 1 of the present invention exhibits improved cosmetic properties compared to comparative formulations 2 and 3, in particular in terms of rinsing ability after application and no residual feel.
It was observed that formulation 1 of the present invention remained a solid makeup removing stick with a clear appearance after 2 months of storage. Whereas both comparative formulations 2 and 3 show phase separation: the upper phase is the oil phase and the lower phase is the aqueous phase. The stability test of the comparative formulation failed.
Claims (16)
1. A solid anhydrous composition comprising:
a) From 5% to 12% by weight of at least one hydrophobic polymer which is a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimer linoleate copolymer;
b) 40 to 98 wt% of at least one hydrocarbon-based oil; and
c) 1 to 20% by weight of at least two nonionic surfactants, wherein one of them is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols; and is also provided with
Wherein the second nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of oxidized alkylene fatty acid glycerides, oxidized alkylene fatty acid sorbitan esters, oxidized alkylene or non-oxidized alkylene ethers of fatty alcohols and polyols, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from C of petroleum origin 8 -C 16 Isoalkane, branched C 8 -C 16 Esters and isohexyl pivalate, fixed oils or vegetable oils of animal origin based on hydrocarbons, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25 ℃, higher fatty acids, carbonates, acetates, citrates and mixtures thereof; and is also provided with
The fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is selected from polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate or mixture thereof.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the higher fatty acid comprises oleic acid, linoleic acid.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from synthetic fatty acid esters.
4. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is polyglycerol-10 oleate.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of oxidized alkylene fatty acid glycerides.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second nonionic surfactant is PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate.
8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of hydrocarbon-based oil is comprised between 55 wt% and 98 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of hydrocarbon-based oil is comprised between 65 wt% and 95 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of hydrocarbon-based oil is comprised between 80 wt% and 90 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is transparent.
12. The composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition.
13. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11 for removing make-up from keratin materials.
14. Cosmetic use according to claim 13, wherein the keratin material is skin.
15. Cosmetic process for cleaning and/or removing makeup on keratin materials, comprising the step of applying on the surface of the keratin materials at least one composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11.
16. The cosmetic method according to claim 15, wherein the keratin material is skin.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2017/118564 WO2019126999A1 (en) | 2017-12-26 | 2017-12-26 | Solid anhydrous composition comprising a hydrophobic polymer for removing makeup on the skin |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN111601580A CN111601580A (en) | 2020-08-28 |
| CN111601580B true CN111601580B (en) | 2023-09-05 |
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| Country | Link |
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| WO (1) | WO2019126999A1 (en) |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE102019209908A1 (en) * | 2019-07-05 | 2021-01-07 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cleaning preparation containing fatty acid polyglyceryl ester |
| FR3135398A1 (en) | 2022-05-13 | 2023-11-17 | Laboratoires Clarins | Anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising decaglycerol myristate and a combination of fatty substances |
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| JP2003193089A (en) * | 2001-12-17 | 2003-07-09 | Internatl Flavors & Fragrances Inc | Transparent, vegetable-based, substantially hydrocarbon-free candle article |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN111601580A (en) | 2020-08-28 |
| WO2019126999A1 (en) | 2019-07-04 |
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