CN111601580A - Solid anhydrous composition for removing color cosmetics on skin comprising hydrophobic polymers - Google Patents
Solid anhydrous composition for removing color cosmetics on skin comprising hydrophobic polymers Download PDFInfo
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- CN111601580A CN111601580A CN201780097935.8A CN201780097935A CN111601580A CN 111601580 A CN111601580 A CN 111601580A CN 201780097935 A CN201780097935 A CN 201780097935A CN 111601580 A CN111601580 A CN 111601580A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/88—Polyamides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
Abstract
The present invention relates to solid anhydrous compositions particularly useful for skin cleansing and makeup removal, more particularly comprising a bis-stearylethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrodimerized linoleate copolymer, and to cosmetic methods for cleansing and/or removing color makeup from keratin materials using said compositions.
Description
The present invention relates to solid anhydrous compositions, particularly useful for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising a hydrophobic polymer.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials using said composition.
In the field of cleansing and/or makeup removing compositions, "soft solid" compositions constitute a class of products that are favored by consumers because of their cleansing efficacy, makeup removal, rinsability, and their cosmetic qualities (softness, dry feel, ease of use, etc.). They are known as solid compositions which soften under stress, such as by spreading on the skin surface or, for example, by extrusion from a device with porous walls (a grid).
Consumers are pursuing "soft solid" type compositions for cleansing the skin and/or removing make-up that do not leave any residue on the skin and leave a fresh skin appearance (skin finish) and at the same time are easy to apply to the skin.
Some known soft solid compositions useful for cleansing the skin and/or removing makeup comprise silica aerogel particles, a wax, a hydrocarbon-based oil, and a nonionic surfactant.
However, there is still a need for solid compositions with improved properties suitable for cleansing the skin and/or removing make-up.
In particular, there remains a need for improved solid compositions that can be easily and quickly applied, i.e. spread easily on the skin, and it is desirable that these compositions do not leave the skin with any greasy feel.
None of the prior art discloses soft solid compositions providing improved in-use properties as described above and having good stability over time.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a solid anhydrous composition having good efficacy such as makeup removability and washability and having improved cosmetic properties such as ease of use.
It is an object of the present invention to provide such compositions as described above which do not have a greasy feel on the skin after application.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition as described above having good stability over time.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a solid and anhydrous composition that is easily carried in a device, particularly for removing color cosmetics from the skin.
Optionally, it is an object of the present invention to provide a solid anhydrous composition having all of the above properties while presenting a pleasing transparent appearance.
The present invention therefore relates to a solid anhydrous composition comprising:
a) at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from the group consisting of ester-terminated poly (ester-amides) and mixtures thereof;
b) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil; and
c) at least two non-ionic surfactants, wherein one of them is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing at least 5 glycerol groups.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying at least one composition according to the invention on the surface of the keratin materials.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing makeup on keratin materials, comprising a step of applying at least one composition according to the invention on the surface of the keratin materials, in particular the skin.
The inventors have found that with the composition according to the invention, the spreadability and application properties on keratin materials are improved compared to other solid compositions, with less time required to melt and apply the composition.
In addition, the skin appearance was also improved (skin finish), with no greasy feel after rinsing.
In addition, the composition is stable over time.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be transparent, thereby giving the composition a pleasant appearance.
According to the invention, the composition has the desired hardness to be suitable in cans, devices equipped with a mesh wall (open-work wall), devices equipped with a ball applicator or in the form of sticks (walls or sticks).
Definition of
The term "solid" composition means the form of the composition at 20 ℃, in particular the term "solid" means that its hardness at 20 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm when measured according to the protocol described below-1The composition of (1).
The hardness of the solid composition was measured according to the following protocol.
The compositions whose hardness is to be determined are stored at 20 ℃ for 24 hours before the hardness is measured. The hardness can be measured at 20 ℃ by the "cheese wire" method, which involves cutting the bar, which is preferably a cylinder, transversely by moving the wire at a speed of 100 mm/min relative to the product bar by means of a hard tungsten wire of 250 μm diameter.
Measured in Nm using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Inpelco-Chatillon-1The hardness of a sample of the composition of the invention is shown.
This measurement was repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values (denoted Y) read using the tensile tester described above is given in grams. This average is converted to newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance the wire has traveled. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
Conversion of hardness into Nm by the following equation-1：
(Y × 10-3× 9.8)/L。
For measurements at different temperatures, the bars were stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurements.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention has a Nm greater than or equal to 40-1More preferably 50 Nm-1To 300 Nm-1And even more preferably 60 Nm-1To 120 Nm-1The hardness of (2).
The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water or even less than 0.5% of water, especially free of water, which is not added during the preparation of the composition but corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixing ingredients.
"rinsability" may mean that the composition of the present invention is easily rinsed off with water after application to the skin.
By "non-greasy feeling" it may be meant that the skin feels dry and fresh after rinsing off the composition of the invention. In one embodiment, the skin does not have a greasy or waxy feel after rinsing off the composition of the present invention.
By "spreadability" it may be meant that the composition is easy to apply and/or spread on the keratin material (the solid composition "melts" when applied on the keratin material).
The term "keratin material" means the skin (body, face and periocular), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes, preferably the skin.
The term "clear" can be represented by the turbidity of the composition of the invention, which can be measured at room temperature using a turbidimeter type 2100P from HACH company according to the NTU method.
Advantageously, the turbidity of the solid anhydrous composition of the invention is less than 400 NTU units, preferably less than 200 NTU units, more preferably from 1 to 100 NTU units.
Detailed Description
The composition of the present invention is intended to solve the problems as listed above.
More particularly, the composition of the invention is a solid anhydrous composition for cleaning and/or removing color cosmetics on keratin materials.
Preferably, the composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for removing color cosmetics from keratin materials, in particular from the skin. In a particular embodiment, the color cosmetic is removed from the facial skin.
In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is transparent.
Hydrophobic polymers
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic polymer chosen from ester-terminated poly (ester-amides).
"hydrophobic" may refer to a polymer that is water-repellent, i.e., immiscible with water.
An "ester-terminated" polymer may refer to a polymer comprising at least one chemically functional ester (Ra-C (O) -O-R' a) as a terminal moiety. Such polymers and their preparation are described, for example, in the WO 02/092663 patent application.
In one embodiment, the polymer comprises at least one, optionally hydrogenated, dimer dilinoleate unit. Preferably, the hydrophobic polymer is a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimerized linoleate copolymer. Mention may in particular be made of Arizona chemical as Sylvaclear™The bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrodimerized linoleate copolymer sold under the name of C75V or Croda, Inc. under the name Oleocraft LP-20, also known as Polyamide-8 (CAS RN is 678991-29-2).
In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises only one hydrophobic polymer. In a particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are free of ester-terminated polyamide polymers, such as ethylenediamine stearyl dimer linoleate copolymer.
In one embodiment, the amount of hydrophobic polymer is from 1 wt% to 20 wt% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 wt% to 15 wt% of the total weight of the composition, for example about 10 wt%.
Hydrocarbon-based oils
According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil which evaporates in less than 1 hour on contact with the skin or keratin fibres at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The essential oils of the invention are liquid at room temperature and have, in particular, a pressure of between 0.13 Pa and 40000 Pa (10 Pa) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure-3To 300 mmHg), in particular from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), more in particular from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term "non-volatile oil" means a substance which remains on the skin or keratin fibres for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and in particular has a residence time of less than 10-3An oil having a vapour pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The oil according to the invention is preferably selected from any cosmetically acceptable oil, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oil or mixtures thereof.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing predominantly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic acid functions. Typically, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100000 mpa.s, preferably from 50 to 50000 mpa.s, more preferably from 100 to 300000 mpa.s.
As examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of:
-C chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular of petroleum origin8-C16Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16Esters and isohexyl pivalate and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name shellsalt by Shell corporation; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE 102008012457 from Cognis corporation.
As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of:
-hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, or wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, gourd oil (marrow oil), blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, gooseberry oil (candtenut oil), passion fruit oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, castor oil, avocado oil, octanoic/decanoic acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the St. reineri Dubois company or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818, jojoba oil and shea butter oil,
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam, and squalane,
-synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, e.g. of the formula R1COOR2Wherein R is1Represents a compound having 1 to 40 carbon atomsAnd R is a straight or branched chain higher fatty acid residue and2represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched hydrocarbon-based chain, in which R1+ R2More than or equal to 10, for example, Duck tail gland oil (purcellin oil) (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C benzoate12-C15Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate (tridecyl trimetallate); alcohol or polyol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for example propylene glycol dicaprylate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoate, octanoate or decanoate; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate,
fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, having branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol,
higher fatty acids, such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid;
-a carbonate ester;
-an acetate ester;
-citric acid esters.
In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from petroleum-derived C8-C16Isoalkane, branched C8-C16Esters and isohexyl pivalate, hydrocarbon-based fixed oils or vegetable oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25 ℃, higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, carbonates, acetates, citrates and mixtures thereof(ii) a Preferably selected from synthetic fatty acid esters.
In a particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from the group consisting of:
-C chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular of petroleum origin8-C16Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of isoalkanes, such as isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and squalene; and
-a synthetic fatty acid ester,
and mixtures thereof.
Using the hydrocarbon-based oils mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention are advantageously transparent.
In another particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from synthetic fatty acid esters, such as cetearyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C benzoate12-C15Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; alcohol or polyol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for example propylene glycol dicaprylate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoate, octanoate or decanoate; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, or mixtures thereof.
As examples of oils suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as synthetic esters. Mention may be made of oils such as 2-ethylhexyl Palmitate sold under the name palmitat D' ethyl 2 Hexyle by Stearinerie Dubois, or Cegesoft sold by BASF®C24。
Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is a synthetic fatty acid ester, more preferably 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.
In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is present in the composition in an amount of from 40 wt% to 98 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition; preferably from 50 to 80 wt%, more preferably from 55 to 70 wt%, for example about 65 wt% of the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic surfactant
Surfactants are generally amphiphilic organic compounds, meaning that they contain a hydrophobic group (their tails) and a hydrophilic group (their heads). "nonionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that has no charged group at its head (i.e., the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral).
The compositions of the invention comprise at least two nonionic surfactants, wherein one of them is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing at least 5 glycerol groups.
According to one embodiment, the fatty acid esters of polyglycerols (also known as polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, PGFE) suitable for use in the present invention are compounds of formula (I),
Wherein:
r represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C30A fatty chain;
n is an integer of 5 to 30.
Preferably, for the purposes of the present invention, in formula (I),
r represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C17The fatty chain(s) of the fatty chain(s),
n is an integer from 5 to 20, preferably from 5 to 16.
Examples of suitable PGFE surfactants are polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 dimyristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 dilaurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 trimyristate, polyglycerol-5 oleate or polyglycerol-5 dioleate, and polyglycerol-5 stearate.
More particularly, the fatty acid esters of polyglycerols suitable for use in the present invention are compounds selected from: polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 oleate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate or mixtures thereof.
These compounds are commercially available. For example, mention may be made of the compounds sold by Nikkol under the following trade names: sunsoft A-12E (polyglyceryl-5 laurate), Sunsoft A-14E (polyglyceryl-5 myristate), Sunsoft A-17E (polyglyceryl-5 oleate), Sunsoft A-18E (polyglyceryl-5 stearate), Sunsoft Q-10Y (polyglyceryl-10 caprate), Sunsoft Q-12Y (polyglyceryl-10 laurate), Sunsoft Q-14S (polyglyceryl-10 myristate), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-OV (polyglyceryl-10 oleate), and Sunsoft Q-18Y (polyglyceryl-10 stearate).
In a particular embodiment, polyglycerol-10 oleate is used in the compositions of the invention.
The composition according to the invention comprises a second non-ionic surfactant different from the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol described above.
Examples of second suitable nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated fatty acid glycerides, oxyalkylenated fatty acid sorbitan esters, oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and polyols and mixtures thereof.
According to the invention, the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid glyceride is preferably an oxyethylene chain.
More preferably, it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 alkylene oxide, especially oxyethylene groups, preferably from 2 to 100 alkylene oxide, especially oxyethylene groups.
Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid glycerides which may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and mixtures thereof.
As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate, such as those sold under the trade name Emalex Gwis-320EX by Nihon emulsion.
Other types of surfactants that may be mentioned include more particularly:
oxyethylenated fatty acid sorbitan esters, such as (INCI name) polysorbate 20, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan heptaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;
-fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as (INCI name) PEG-8 stearate, PEG-6 oleate, PEG-6 isostearate, PEG-12 diisostearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-8 diisostearate or PEG-10 isostearate;
oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated, fatty alkyl ethers, such as ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 (INCI name), and mixtures containing them, such as the mixtures sold by the Cognis company under the name Emulgade CM (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate);
-and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the amount of nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the invention is from 1% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, for example about 15% by weight.
Auxiliary agent
In a known manner, the compositions according to the invention may also contain adjuvants commonly found in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as preservatives, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH regulators (acidic or basic), fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes), film-forming polymers, additional surfactants, such as anionic, amphoteric, cationic or nonionic surfactants; additional oils such as silicone or fluoro oils, thickeners and/or gelling agents, and active ingredients.
The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom in its structure.
The term "fluoro oil" refers to a partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based oil comprising carbon and fluorine atoms.
As examples of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic non-volatile Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups (these groups contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms) on the sides or at the ends of the silicone chain; polyphenylsiloxanes, for example phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylpolydimethylsiloxanes, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) and/or the amount thereof such that the addition under consideration does not or does not substantially adversely affect the properties of the composition according to the invention.
Galenic form (galenic forms)
The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, balms (balm), hair oils or gels, the hardness of which may vary depending on the intended use, the area of human keratin material to be treated and the desired conditioning.
The composition according to the invention may be adapted to be used in cans; in installations provided with grid walls (in particular grills); in a device equipped with a ball-applicator ("ball-on"); in the form of rods (wands or sticks). In this respect, they contain the ingredients usually used in products of this type, which are known to the person skilled in the art.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, based on the total weight of the composition:
-1 to 20% by weight of at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amides);
-from 1% to 30% by weight of at least two non-ionic surfactants, wherein one of them is a fatty acid ester of a polyglycerol containing at least 5 glycerol groups; and
-at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
More particularly, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for cleansing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, based on the total weight of the composition:
-5 to 12% by weight of at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amides);
-from 1% to 20% by weight of at least two nonionic surfactants, each selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters of polyglycerols having at least 5 glycerin groups and oxyalkylenated fatty acid glycerides; and
-at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises:
-a copolymer of bis-stearylethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimerized linoleate,
synthetic fatty acid esters, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and
-a non-ionic surfactant which is a mixture of polyglycerol-10 oleate and PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate.
In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises, based on the total weight of the composition:
10% by weight of a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimerized linoleate copolymer,
-2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and
5% by weight of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate and 5% by weight of polyglycerol-10 oleate.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises the application, on the surface of the keratin materials, of at least one composition as defined above.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing makeup on keratin materials, comprising the application, on the surface of the keratin materials, of at least one composition as defined above.
The compositions according to the invention have improved spreadability, makeup removal, rinsing and skin appearance (skinning).
In addition, the composition has the desired hardness to fit in cans, in devices equipped with a mesh wall (open-work wall), in devices equipped with a ball applicator, or in the form of sticks (walls or sticks).
In this patent application, unless explicitly mentioned otherwise, the amounts are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions and methods according to the invention, but in no way limit the scope of the invention.
Unless otherwise noted, all parts and percentages in the examples are given on a weight basis, and all measurements were obtained at about 25 ℃.
Examples
Example 1 preparation of example
The following formulations were prepared as follows:
comparative formulation 2 polyglycerol-10 oleate was replaced by polyglycerol-3 diisostearate;
comparative formulation 3 polyglycerol-10 oleate was replaced by polyglycerol-4 diisostearate.
Example 2 evaluation example
The above-listed formulations were evaluated for stability, ease of application, makeup removal ability, rinsing ability, and skin feel after application.
The stability of the formulations of the invention and the comparative formulations was evaluated. All formulations of the invention and comparative formulations were stored at room temperature (approximately 20 ℃) for 2 months.
These formulations were tested by X consumers using each formulation as a make-up remover on the forearm. Each property is then given a score of 1 to 5. The average of the scores is calculated. A score greater than or equal to 3 represents a desired property, while a score less than 3 represents a poor property.
The results are listed herewith.
| Examples | Easy application (smearing) property | Makeup removing ability | Flushing capacity | Has no residual feeling | Stability of |
| Preparation 1 of the invention | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | Stabilization |
| Comparative formulation 2 | 3 | 5 | 2 | 1 | Instability of the film |
| Comparative formulation 3 | 3.4 | 5 | 2.4 | 1.6 | Instability of the film |
In summary, formulation 1 of the present invention provides improved stability compared to comparative formulations 2 and 3. Furthermore, formulation 1 of the present invention exhibited improved cosmetic properties compared to comparative formulations 2 and 3, particularly in terms of washability and no residual feel after application.
It was observed that formulation 1 of the present invention remained a solid cleansing bar with a transparent appearance after 2 months of storage. Whereas comparative formulations 2 and 3 both show phase separation: the upper phase is an oil phase and the lower phase is an aqueous phase. The stability test of the comparative formulation failed.
Claims (14)
1. A solid anhydrous composition comprising:
a) at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from the group consisting of ester-terminated poly (ester-amides) and mixtures thereof;
b) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil; and
c) at least two non-ionic surfactants, wherein one of them is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing at least 5 glycerol groups.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer comprises at least one dioleate unit, the hydrophobic polymer preferably being a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dioleate copolymer.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of hydrophobic polymer is from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is a compound of formula (I),
Wherein:
r represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C30 fatty chain;
n is an integer from 5 to 30;
preferably, in formula (I), R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C17An aliphatic chain, and n is an integer from 5 to 20, preferably from 5 to 16.
5. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is selected from polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 oleate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate or mixtures thereof; polyglycerol-10 oleate is preferred.
6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the second nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of oxyalkylenated fatty acid glycerides, oxyalkylenated fatty acid sorbitan esters, oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and polyols, and mixtures thereof; preferably from oxyalkylenated fatty acid glycerides; preferably selected from the group consisting of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and mixtures thereof; more preferably PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate.
7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of non-ionic surfactant is from 1% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, in which the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from C of petroleum origin8-C16Isoalkane, branched C8-C16Esters and isohexyl pivalate, hydrocarbon-based fixed oils or vegetable oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25 ℃, higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, carbonates, acetates, citrates and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from synthetic fatty acid esters.
9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of hydrocarbon-based oil is from 55% to 98% by weight of the total weight of the composition; preferably from 65 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 80 to 90 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition is transparent.
11. A solid anhydrous composition comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) 5 to 12 weight percent of at least one hydrophobic polymer selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amides);
b) from 1% to 20% by weight of at least two nonionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters of polyglycerols having at least 5 glycerin groups and oxyalkylenated fatty acid glycerides; and
c) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition.
13. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12 for removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular from the skin.
14. Cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing makeup on keratin materials, comprising the step of applying at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13 on the surface of the keratin materials, in particular the skin.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2017/118564 WO2019126999A1 (en) | 2017-12-26 | 2017-12-26 | Solid anhydrous composition comprising a hydrophobic polymer for removing makeup on the skin |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN111601580A true CN111601580A (en) | 2020-08-28 |
| CN111601580B CN111601580B (en) | 2023-09-05 |
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| CN201780097935.8A Active CN111601580B (en) | 2017-12-26 | 2017-12-26 | Solid anhydrous composition comprising a hydrophobic polymer for removing make-up from the skin |
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| Country | Link |
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| CN (1) | CN111601580B (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2019126999A1 (en) |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE102019209908A1 (en) * | 2019-07-05 | 2021-01-07 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cleaning preparation containing fatty acid polyglyceryl ester |
| FR3135398A1 (en) | 2022-05-13 | 2023-11-17 | Laboratoires Clarins | Anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising decaglycerol myristate and a combination of fatty substances |
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| CN104740234B (en) * | 2013-12-27 | 2018-09-04 | 天津中新药业集团股份有限公司乐仁堂制药厂 | A kind of Chinese medicine composition and preparation method thereof |
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| US20030236387A1 (en) * | 2001-05-14 | 2003-12-25 | Arizona Chemical Company | Ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) in personal care products |
| JP2003193089A (en) * | 2001-12-17 | 2003-07-09 | Internatl Flavors & Fragrances Inc | Transparent, vegetable-based, substantially hydrocarbon-free candle article |
| US20060177505A1 (en) * | 2005-01-31 | 2006-08-10 | L'oreal | Cleaning composition in solid form |
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Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2019126999A1 (en) | 2019-07-04 |
| CN111601580B (en) | 2023-09-05 |
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