FR2970177A1 - CLEANSING OILY COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is an oily cosmetic composition comprising: at least one sunflower wax, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpolyglycosides, esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, and fatty alcohol and glycerol or polyglycerol ethers comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups, esters of sucrose and of fatty acids, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, caprylic acid esters and glycerol and mixtures thereof and at least one oil. It can be used in particular for removing makeup from the skin and / or the ocular area and / or the lips.

Description

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition in solid form based on an oil comprising a vegetable wax and a particular surfactant, in particular for removing make-up or makeup removal from keratin materials.

Today's makeup technologies are more and more innovative and powerful, and users of makeup products are more likely to use long-lasting products such as non-transferable foundation, long-wearing lipsticks, waterproof mascaras or mascaras double gesture (application of a base then mascara).

However, this type of product is more difficult to remove than conventional makeup products, and there is, therefore, a need for makeup remover products that are both high performance, convenient to use and which ensure a respect of the skin while having good cosmetic qualities (good comfort of use, softness).

Among the commonly available make-up removal products, it is possible to find mostly liquid form of compositions such as make-up removing oils which, although effective, are difficult to remove from the skin because they are not easily rinsed and are not practical because the product may leak on the skin. hands.

We therefore seek to formulate a cleansing product, both effective on waterproof makeup products (or waterproof), which is in non-liquid form, convenient to use and comfortable. For example, oil-based rinse-off compositions which are structured by waxes of petrochemical origin are known.

However, in recent years the cosmetic market is marked by a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers want formulations that are free from synthetic materials and prefer natural, natural or certified organic compounds that are known for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin and that are more environmentally friendly.

"Natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from the soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding. , refining, distillation, purification or filtration. By compounds "of natural origin" is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above.

There is therefore still a need for a make-up removal or cleaning product comprising ingredients of natural origin that are safe with respect to keratin materials, while still having the properties required for products that are both effective. on long-lasting makeups, convenient to use and comfortable.

The Applicant has discovered that the combination of sunflower wax and particular surfactants makes it possible to formulate an oil-based makeup remover composition in solid form and easily rinsable.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is an oily cosmetic composition comprising: at least one sunflower wax, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpolyglycosides, esters of fatty acids and of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 units glycerol, fatty alcohol and glycerol or polyglycerol ethers comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups, esters of sucrose and of fatty acids, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, esters of caprylic acid and glycerol and mixtures thereof and - at least one oil.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in solid form. By solid composition is meant a composition which does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The composition according to the invention may have a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 10 to 50 kPa, more preferably from 20 to 45 kPa.

The hardness of the composition can be measured using the Stable Micro System TAX-T2iO texturometer with a 5 kg force sensor and equipped with the Texture Expert ExceedO operating software equipped with a 6 mm diameter cylindrical stainless steel-mobile.

The texturometer measures the resistance strength to the deformation of the composition as soon as the mobile comes into contact with the sample. After reaching a programmed maximum depth LO in the sample, the mobile returns to its initial position. The hardness (expressed in grams or Newtons) is equal to the resistance value to the deformation of the composition when the mobile is at the end of the race.

The parameters applied are advantageously the following: - triggering force: 100 g - speed before contact: 0.1 mm.s-1, - speed of movement in the sample: 0.1 mm.s-1, - maximum depth LO: 3 mm.

The composition samples are prepared in pots of diameter 9 cm. The containers are filled with composition in sufficient quantity to overcome any edge effects, the surface of the samples being perfectly smooth and flat.

The containers are placed in an enclosure thermostated at 25 ° C with controlled relative humidity and the measurements are made. At least 3 measurements are made in a star on the surface of the sample. The hardness is equal to the average of the 3 measurements made taking into account the F max. A value in grams is obtained which is converted to kPa. The composition according to the invention is preferably anhydrous. By "anhydrous" is meant a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, better less than 2%, even better less than 1% of water, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be free of water.

The composition according to the invention may contain, in addition to the water optionally present, one or more hydrophilic solvents chosen from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; and polyols such as glycerine; glycols such as butylene glycol. The amount of hydrophilic solvent (s) in the composition is advantageously less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still less than or equal to 2%, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight.

Wax

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C., and capable of go up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The sunflower wax used in the composition according to the invention advantageously has a melting point of greater than or equal to 50 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C., better still greater than or equal to 70 ° C., up to 90 ° C. ° C. The wax advantageously has a hardness at 20 ° C. of greater than 5 MPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 15 MPa.

The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of a diameter 2 mm moving at the speed of 430 measurement of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measurement protocol is as follows: the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting temperature of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before making the measurement. hardness or stickiness. The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the mobile penetrated into the wax to the depth of 0.3 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

As sunflower wax that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the wax sold under the reference Sunflower wax by the company Koster Keunen.

The sunflower wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 4 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant

The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpolyglycosides, esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, fatty alcohol and glycerol or polyglycerol ethers comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups. sucrose esters of fatty acids, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, caprylic acid and glycerol esters and mixtures thereof.

The amount of these nonionic surfactants may range, for example, from 0.1 to 200% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. better from 1 to 5 ° / U by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a) Alkypolyglycosides

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkylpolyglycoside" means an alkylmonoside (degree of polymerization 1) or alkylpolyglycoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1).

The alkylpolyglycosides can be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They generally correspond to the following structure: R (0) (G) X

in which the R radical is a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkyl radical, G is a saccharide residue and x ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 3 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch. More preferably, the saccharide moiety refers to glucose.

It should further be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide portion of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in isomeric form a or [3, in L or D form and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type. It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the worn alkyl unit and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.

As alkylpolyglucosides, mention may be made, for example, of cetearyl glucoside such as TEGOCARE CG 90 marketed by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, decylglucoside (AlkyI-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1.4)), and the product sold under the name MYDOL 100 by the company Kao. Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP® by the company Cognis, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 100 by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 1100 by the company Seppic; laurylglucoside, such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N0 and PLANTACARE 12000 by the company Cognis; and coco-glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP0 by the company Cognis, and their mixtures.

The alkypolyglucoside may be used in admixture with a fatty alcohol. The emulsifying fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixture may comprise (a) from 5 to 60% by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (s) (b) of 95 to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) relative to the total weight of said mixture.

The fatty alcohol (s) used may be chosen from those having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol which can therefore be taken alone or In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to jointly use a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyoside whose alkyl part is identical to that of the fatty alcohol retained.

Among the commercial fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV®, such as the following mixtures: Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cocoglucoside- MONTANOV 82® Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside- MONTANOV 802® Alcohol myristyl alcohol / Myristylglucoside - MONTANOV 14 Cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside - MONTANOV 68 C14-C22 / C12-C20 alcohol alkylglucoside - MONTANOV L Cocoalcohol / Coco-glucoside - MONTANOV S Isostearyl alcohol / Isostearylglucoside - MONTANOV WO 18®.

b) polyglycerol fatty acid ester comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units According to the present invention, the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is preferably chosen from the esters resulting from the polyglycerol reaction comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 7 glycerol units and from at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and more preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. The fatty acids may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.

The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, acid and the like. caprylic, or mixtures thereof. The fatty acid is in particular lauric acid.

The polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Polyglycerol monoesters and fatty acids are preferably used. The polyglycerol ester of fatty acid may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester. preferably a machine in which the monoster is the majority.

According to a preferred embodiment, a polyglycerol ester of fatty acid selected from the esters derived from the polyglycerol reaction comprising from 3 to 7 glycerol units, in particular 5 glycerol units, and from at least one fatty acid is used. , preferably saturated, comprising 10 to 14 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid, more preferably a saturated fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid.

There may be mentioned, for example, the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol-5 (homopolymer of glycerol comprising 5 glycerol units) and lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-5aurate) such as that marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name reference SUNSOFT A-121 E, the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and of capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as that sold by the company Evonik under TEGOSOFT reference PC 41 c) ethers of fatty alcohol and glycerol or polyglycerol

They may be chosen in particular from fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and from glycerol or polyglycerol, the number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 9 and better still from 1 to 5, more preferably from 1 to 3. Preferably a monoether is used. The fatty alcohol may be chosen from oleic alcohol, lauric alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol and oleic alcohol.

As compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER) and lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol (or 1.5 glyceryl Iauryl ether). such as Chimexane Chimexane NV, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, to 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol to 6 moles of glycerol.

d) Sucrose and fatty acid esters Sucrose and fatty acid esters are preferably chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose (s) (sucrose) and fatty acid (s) comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms. The fatty acids comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, or mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment the sucrose and fatty acid ester is chosen from esters resulting from the sucrose and fatty acid reaction comprising from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, such as the acid lauric and / or palmitic acid such as sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or a mixture. The sucrose esters of fatty acids may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Esters with a low degree of esterification, such as, for example, monoesters, diesters, triesters of sucrose and fatty acid, or a mixture, are preferably used. The sucrose and fatty acid ester may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester.

In the case where a mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acid is used, a mixture is preferred in which the esters with a low degree of esterification, in particular monoesters, are in the majority and represent for example at least 50 %, preferably at least 60% by weight of the mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acid. In particular, it is possible to use a mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of mono, di and triesters of lauric acid or of palmitic acid, said mixture possibly comprising in a minority manner (in a content of less than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acid) esters of sucrose and of fatty acids in which the fatty acid comprises more than 16 carbon atoms.

Examples of esters or mixtures of sucrose esters and of fatty acids that may be mentioned include: - COSME C-1416 Surfhope, having a HLB of 16, which is a myristate sucrose comprising approximately 80% of monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di and triesters, the Surfhope SE COSME C-1216 whose INCI name is sucrose laurate, of HLB equal to 16 and comprises from 75 to 90% of monoester, the remainder of the mixture being composed of of di and triesters, - the Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L whose INCI name is sucrose Iaurate, of HLB HLB equal to 15, comprising about 70% of monoesters, the rest of the mixture being composed of diesters and other polyetsers, - the Surfhope SE COSME C-1616, having a HLB of 16, which is a mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate), comprising 75 to 90% monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di and triesters, and may include sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate stea missed. It is also possible to mention the ester bearing the name INCI sucrose Iaurate marketed by the company Dai-ichi Seiyaku under the reference DK ester S-L18A, of HLB equal to 17, comprising 70% monoesters and 30% di- and tri- esters. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sucrose: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE. According to one embodiment, sucrose Iaurate is used.

e) the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups may be chosen from: - oxyethylenated esters of polyol and of fatty acid comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, which can comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, in particular the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and more preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and from glycerol, for example oxyethylenated glyceryl triisostearate ( 20 EO) (INCI name: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate). fatty acid esters (in particular of C 12 -C 30, and preferably of C 12 -C 20, better still C 14 -C 18), in particular isostearic acid or oleic acid and of sorbitan and / or dicarboxylic acid; oxyethylenated sorbitol ethers comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, such as sorbitan trioleate EO (INCI name: Polysorbate 85), sorbeth tetraisostearate - polyethylene glycol esters and / or or polypropylene glycol and of fatty acids, in particular of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 atoms, better still from 14 to 18 carbon atoms such as oleic acid, acid isostearic, and comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol (8 EO) mono-isostearate (INCI name: PEG-8 isostearate) and their mixtures; In particular, esters of caprylic acid and glycerol are selected among the monoesters and diesters of caprylic acid and their mixtures (INCI name glyceryl mono caprylate and glyceryl dicaprylate). It is also possible to use a mixture of monoesters and caprylic acid diesters, in particular a mixture of monoesters and caprylic acid diesters in which the mononester is preferably predominant (content greater than 50%). Mention may in particular be made of the product marketed by Cognis under the reference Capmul MCM (INCI name caprylic / capric triglycerides) which is a mixture composed mainly of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl dicaprylate also comprising esters of capric acid and glycerol.

and their mixtures

Oils The term "oil" means a liquid fatty substance at ambient temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure. The oils used in the composition according to the invention are distinct from the nonionic surfactants described above.

The quantity of oils in the composition according to the invention is preferably at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight, better still at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 80%, or even at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of oils may range from 50 to 95% by weight, preferably from 60 to 90%, more preferably from 70 to 90% by weight and even more preferably from 80 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

As oils that can be used more particularly in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of triglycerides of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the same conditions. Miglyol names 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of Cognis WO 2007/068371. By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of nnonane (C9), n-decane (C, o), n-undecane (C ') and n-dodecane (C12). ), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16) and nheptadecane (C ') and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (C ') and tridecane (C13) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of ndodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid having at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 26 carbon atoms and more preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 16 carbon atoms and at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS, fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular of plant origin such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE de Cognis), octydodecanol, and their mixtures

As a preferred oil, mention may be made of ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, perfumes, perfume peptizers, fillers, dyestuffs, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures.

Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition. The compositions of the invention can be used in any cosmetic application. They are particularly suitable for removing make-up from the skin and / or from the ocular area and / or from the lips.

Another object of the invention is a method of cleaning or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, hair, and / or lips, characterized by the in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials. According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of rinsing the keratin materials after application of the composition described above.

According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of wetting the keratin materials with water, prior to the application of the composition to said keratin materials. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a tablet (or roller, or tablet) (solid of a size of up to about 4 cm) or a powder, a powder being a finely divided solid particles. In particular, the composition may be in the form of a single dose tablet which is first melted in the hands before application to the keratin materials.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and are not limiting in nature. All amounts are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The names of the compounds are indicated according to the case in chemical names or in INCI names.

Examples 1 to 6: Cleansing Balms The following compositions were prepared comprising various waxes of plant origin and a wax of petrochemical origin (polyethylene wax): Example Example Example Example Example Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 (Compara (Compara ( Comparative (comparative (inventio tif) tif) tif) tif) n) Ethyl hexyl palmitate gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 Polyglyceryl-5 laurate 5 5 5 5 5 5 (Taiyo Kagaku SUNSOFT A-121 E) carnauba 7 (Carnauba Wax SP 63 from Strahl & Pitsch) rice bran wax (NC 7 1721 Cera Rica Noda) candellila wax 7 (Candellila Wax SP 75 from Strahl & Pitsch) hydrogenated castor oil 7 (Cutina HR Powder from Cognis ) polyethylene wax 7 (Performalene 500-L polyethylene from New Phase Technologies) sunflower wax 7 (Sunflower wax from Koster Keunen) Important important aspect homogenous homogenous gel homogenous salting release of oil in waxy oil homogenous waxy waxy surface surface e, from 24h as of 24h granular with release of oil on the surface Hardness (kPa) NA NA 18,44 7,06 35 41,2 Only the compositions of examples 3, 5 and 6 are in solid form of waxy appearance with a suitable hardness to be taken with the finger, the other compositions have a crippling appearance. 3 experts tested the stable compositions of examples 3, 5 and 6. according to the following protocol: - wash hands with Marseille soap and then dry them, - take a small amount of product (of the order of 0.25g) at center of the container by sliding his index finger, note the grip on the finger, - then wet the hand where the application will take place, - massage with the dry index finger for 5 seconds circularly on the back of the wet hand. Note the release of oil + or - fast, soaping on application (if processing of the product), - then rinse for 10 seconds under a stream of tap water at 30 ° C (note the rinsability), - dab using a cloth, estimate the skin finish. Each criterion is noted according to a scale ranging from --- to +++.

The results are as follows: EXAMPLE 3 EXAMPLE 5 Example 6 (Invention) Heterogenous Fingertip +++ + Release of Oil at the Application +++ +++ ++ Soap-Bleaching (Application Bleaching) rinse bleaching +++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The composition based on sunflower wax according to the invention has a greater rinsing bleaching than the composition of Example 5 with polyethylene wax, sign for the consumer of a better effect of transformation associated with a better feeling of rinsing .

Stability: The compositions of Examples 5 and 6 were put in an oven at 45 ° C. for 1 month and then their hardness was measured after their stay in an oven: the composition 6 according to the invention based on sunflower wax remained stable in hardness (41-42 kPa) while the composition of Example 5 exhibits a drop in hardness (35 kPa before, 15 kPa after 1 month at 45 ° C).

Examples 7 to 12: Cleansing balms Example Example Example Example Example Example 7 8 9 10 11 12 (inventio (comparative (comparative (inventio (inventio (inventio n) atif) atif) n) n) n) Ethyl hexyl palmitate gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 sunflower wax 7 7 7 7 7 7 (Sunflower wax from Koster Keunen) 1720 Polyglyceryl-5 laurate 5 (SUNSOFT A-121 E from Taiyo Kagaku) Polyglyceryl-10 laurate 5 (Dermofeel G10 L from Dr. Straetmans) Glyceryl isostearate 5 (Nikkol MGIS) Coco 5 glucoside / coconut alcohol (MONTANOV S® from Seppic) 1.5 glyceryl Iauryl ether 5 (Chimexane NV from Chimex) Caprylic / capric 5 glyceride (Capmul MCM from Cognis) 3 experts tested these compositions according to the protocol described above by noting each criterion according to a scale from --- to +++.

The results are as follows: Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example Example Example (Invention) (Comparative (Comparative 10 11 12) f) (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) Homogeneous aspect Waxy Smoothness Appearance Appearance Yellow Yellow Yellow Marbled Yellow Marbled marbled marbled good hard good good good good finger release ++ +++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ These tests show that only the surfactants according to the invention make it possible to obtain a composition which is both homogeneous, favoring the release of oil upon application. , which does not soap on application, has rinsing whitening and good rinsability.

Claims (5)

REVENDICATIONS1. An oily cosmetic composition comprising: at least one sunflower wax, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpolyglycosides, polyglycerol fatty acid esters comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, fatty alcohol and glycerol ethers or polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 9 glycerol groups, esters of sucrase and of fatty acids, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, esters of caprylic acid and of glycerol and their mixtures and at least an oil. 2. Composition according to claim 1; characterized in that the wax has a melting temperature greater than or equal to 50 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C, more preferably greater than or equal to 70 ° C up to 90 ° C 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the sunflower wax is present in a content ranging from 0 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight. % by weight, more particularly from 4 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of nonionic surfactants ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0, 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylpolyglycosides have the following structure: R (O) (G), in which the radical R is a linear or branched C 3 -C alkyl radical. G is a saccharide residue and x is from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is chosen from the esters derived from the polyglycerol reaction comprising from 2 to 9 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 7 glycerol units and from at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms .- A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester and polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 9 units Glycerol is chosen from polyglycerol monoesters and fatty acid monouns. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is chosen from esters derived from the polyglycerol reaction comprising from 3 to 7 glycerol units, in particular 5 glycerol units, and from at least one fatty acid, preferably saturated, comprising 10 to 14 carbon atoms, such as auric acid and / or capric acid. any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from polyglycerol-5 (glycerol hornopolymer comprising 5 glycerol units) and lauric acid esters. 2O. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol and glycerol or polyglycerol ethers are chosen from fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and glycerol or polyglycerol, the number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 5, more preferably from 1 to 3. Composition according to any one of the claims characterized in that the fatty alcohol of the fatty alcohol and glycerol or polyglycerol ethers is selected from oleic alcohol, lauric alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (oleocetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and their A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol and glycerol or polyglycerol ethers are selected from the group consisting of alcohol (1.5 moles of glycerol , 5 glyc Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sucrase and fatty acid esters are chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose (s) (sucrose) and of acid. (s) Fat comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular (auric acid). 14: Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups are chosen from oxyethylenated esters of polyol and of fatty acid comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups, the fatty acid esters (in particular of C 12 -C 30, and preferably C 12 -C 20) and oxyethylenated sorbitan and / or sorbitol ethers, polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol and fatty acid esters; comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups and mixtures thereof. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is chosen from triglycerides of vegetable origin such as jojoba oil, shea butter oil, volatile linear alkanes, advantageously plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 26 carbon atoms and more preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 16 carbon atoms and at least one alcohol comprising 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better of 3 to 15 carbon atoms such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl capratyl caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate , isononyl isononyl esteronate, exyl, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms of vegetable origin, such as dicaprylyl ether , roctydodecanol, and mixtures thereof. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that la. amount of oils is at least 60% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight, more preferably less air 80% or even at least 900/0 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims; Characterized in that it is anhydrous. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in tablet or powder form. 19. A method for cleaning or removing makeup from keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 18 is applied to said keratin materials.