WO2012129722A1 - Solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

A solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips is described. The composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of C16-C25 linear fatty acid salts, at least 20% by weight of water and at least one fatty phase comprising oil and/or pasty fatty compounds in a physiologically acceptable medium.

Description

Solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion

The present invention relates to the field of caring for and/or making up keratinous material and more particularly the lips.

The development of formulations dedicated to making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, having satisfactory properties in terms of application, of comfort, of hold and of coverage and also in terms of makeup effect, such as, for example, gloss, is a permanent objective.

As regards the lips, the lipstick, which appeared at the beginning of the last century, has today established itself and is recognized by users as the predominant application method for making up the lips. This application method offers users a means of choice, in terms of coverage of the lips and of diversity of colors.

Of course, this formulation form must furthermore satisfy requirements, on the one hand, of a mechanical order, in order to ensure the slip and the hold of the stick during application and to prevent it from breaking and, on the other hand, of transfer qualities, in order to guarantee comfortable application and a satisfactory deposited layer of good quality on the lips.

The present invention more particularly focuses on a composition for the lips comprising water in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

There is a need for improved performance of a cosmetic product as a solid mass, comprising water in an amount greater than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in terms of freshness, moisturizing and comfort when applying the composition.

In addition, there is a need that said composition fulfills all said requirements while at the same time being stable.

The inventors have surprisingly found that it is possible to realize such compositions provided that a particular anionic surfactant, i.e. Ci₆-C₂5 linear fatty acid salt and more particularly sodium stearate, is combined with a minimum amount of 20% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and at least one fatty phase comprising oil and/or pasty fatty compounds. Thus, according to a first aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a solid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(a) Ci6-C₂5 linear fatty acid salt, preferably a sodium salt, such as sodium stearate and sodium behenate, in a content of more than or equal to 1% by weight and of less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(b) water in a content of at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition ; and

(c) at least one fatty phase, comprising oil and/or pasty fatty compounds.

It has been surprisingly discovered that the resultant composition, even with the presence of water therein, is stable, can have good stick hardness, delivers freshness, moisturizing onto the skin and/or lips in a comfortable manner, and is easily deposited onto the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips.

Furthermore, said composition has improved performance in terms of sensory level, healing effect, and/or the makeup result, while giving easy application properties, especially in terms of slipperiness and ease of disintegration, but also pleasant for consumers.

In a further aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a method of making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising applying onto the skin and/or the lips the composition according to the present invention.

HARDNESS

The composition according to the invention is solid.

The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

In particular, the term "solid composition" is understood to mean a composition having a hardness of greater than 30 N.m^"1.

Protocol for measuring the hardness

The measurement is carried out according to the following protocol: The lipstick stick is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness. The hardness can be measured at 20°C by the "cheesewire" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably a cylindrical stick generated by rotation, using a stiff tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 um, the wire being moved relative to the stick at a rate of 100 mm/min.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in N.m^"1, is measured using a DFGS2 force gauge sold by Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The mean of the three values read using the force gauge mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This mean is converted to newtons and then divided by L, which represents the greatest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in metres).

The hardness is converted into N.m^"1 by the following equation:

(Y x 10^-3 x 9.8)/L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement.

According to this method, the hardness at 20°C of examples with a composition according to one aspect of the invention is greater than 30 N.m^"1, preferably greater than 35 N.m^"1.

According to this method, the hardness at 20°C of examples with a composition according to one aspect of the invention is less than 150 N.m^"1, in particular less than 100 N.m^"1, preferably less than 80 N.m^"1. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a hardness of between

30 and 150 N.m^"1, or even from 30 to 100 N.m^"1.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a hardness of between 30 and 80 N.m^"1

The composition according to the present invention comprises a salt of a linear fatty acid having from 16 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably a sodium salt, such as sodium stearate and sodium behenate. Said Ci6-C₂₅ linear fatty acid salt is present in a content of more than or equal to

1% by weight and of less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The C16-C25 linear fatty acid salt plays an essential role in the hardness of the solid composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 4% to 9% by weight of Ci₆- C₂s linear fatty acid salt relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition contains from 6% to 8.5% by weight and more preferably from 7.5 % to 8.5% of Ci6-C₂5 linear fatty acid salt relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises from 4% to 15% by weight, in particular from 4% to 9% by weight of Ci₆- C₂5 linear fatty acid salt relative to the total weight of the composition. This first embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the composition contains from 6% to 8.5% by weight of Ci6-C₂₅ linear fatty acid salt relative to the total weight of the composition. This first embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 6% by weight of Ci6- C₂₅ linear fatty acid salt relative to the total weight of the composition. This second embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has from 22 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the composition contains from 2% to 5% by weight of Ci6-C₂s linear fatty acid salt relative to the total weight of the composition. This second embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has from 22 to 24 carbon atoms.

The C16-C25 linear fatty acid salt is preferably chosen from sodium stearate and sodium behenate.

Sodium stearate, also called sodium octadecanoate, is the sodium salt of stearic acid, i.e. a metallic salt of fatty acid, called soap.

Sodium behenate is the sodium salt of behenic acid;

In a most preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises between 7.5 % and 8.5 % by weight of sodium stearate relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention also comprises water in a content of at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water can hydrate and/or moisturize the skin and/or lips, preferably the lips after application.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to

70% by weight, in particular from 30% to 60% by weight and even more particularly from 40% to 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may comprise in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The aqueous phase can form the continuous phase of the composition.

"Continuous aqueous phase composition", as used herein, means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 °C greater than or equal to 23 μ8/ϋπι (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter Mettler Toledo MPC227 and a conductivity measuring cell Inlab730. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may be formed between the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading is made when the value of conductivity is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements.

"Water-soluble solvent", as used herein, means a compound liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

Water soluble solvents used in the compositions of the invention can also be volatile.

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions of the invention, can be chosen from:

- lower monohydric alcohol including from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol,

- polyhydric alcohols including from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably having at least 2 hydroxyl groups, such as glycerol or its derivatives, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diglycerin, sorbitol and mixtures thereof;

- ketones of C₃ and C₄, and

- C₂-C₄ aldehydes can be cited,

- and their mixture. Preferably, the water-soluble solvent, and more particularly the polyhydric alcohol, is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous phase (water and optionally water-miscible solvent) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 25% to 85% by weight, preferably 40 to 75% by weight, preferably 55 to 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

Said fatty phase preferably comprises oil and/or pasty fatty compounds.

Preferably, said fatty phase comprises at least a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil, preferably at least one non volatile oil.

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm².

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

Preferably, said oil is chosen from hydrocarbonated, silicone or fluorinated oils. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionnaly O and N atomes, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. Such oil can contain alcool, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially containing Si-0 groups.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom, Preferably, said at least one non volatile oil is selected from apolar oil, polar oil and mixtures thereof.

Hydrocarbon-based apolar oils According to a first embodiment, the oil present in the composition according to the invention is an apolar hydrocarbon-based oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 6_a, is equal to 0 (J/cm³)^1/2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 6_D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ_ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 6_h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and

- 6_a is determined by the equation: 5_a = (δ_ρ ² + 6_h ²)^½.

The parameters δ_ρ, 6_h, 6_D and 5_a are expressed in (J/cm³)^½.

The term "apolar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

Examples of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and naphthalene oil, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, squalane, decene butene copolymers, polybutene/polyispbutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, and polydecenes such as Puresyn 10, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, mention may be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils of high molecular mass, for example between 650 and 10 000 g mol, for instance:

- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol),

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as Puresyn 150 (MM = 9200 g mol) sold by the company Mobil Chemicals, and

- mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, said apolar hydrocarbonated oil may be a volatile oil.

The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^"3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

Said apolar volatile oil preferably has a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably ranging from 40°C to 55°C and preferentially ranging from 40°C to 50°C (the flash point I sin particular measured according to the Norme iso 3679).

Apolar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, especially branched Cg-Ci₆ alkanes such as Cg-C|₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, linear Cg-C^ alkanes such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C₁ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 and their mixture, the mixture of undecane-tridecane, the mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and de n-tridecane (C13) obtained in exemples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile apolar oils that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, isoeicosane and/or squalane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the volatile apolar oils that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from isododecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

In a composition according to the invention, the said apolar oil, preferably, non volatile, may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from 1% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a prefered embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oils or comprises less than 10% or even less than 5% of apolar volatile oil. According to a second embodiment, said oil is selected from apolar oil, polar oil and mixtures thereof, and is preferably non volatile.

Polar oils

According to a second embodiment, the oil present in the composition according to the invention is a polar oil, chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 6_a, is other than 0 (J/cm³)"².

These additional oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. According to a preferred first embodiment, the polar oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil.

In particular, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;

- hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;

- hydrocarbon-based esters of saccharose and a carboxylic C₂-C₆ acid, particularly chosen from mixted esters of acetic acid and isobutyric acid with saccharose, and preferably the saccharose di-acetate-hexa-(2-methyl-propanoate), as the product commercialised under the name Sustane SAIB food grade kosher by the society EASTMAN CHEMICAL (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate);

- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may be made especially in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

- Ci₂-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol),

- fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic acid, - dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC^® by Cognis, and

- non-volatile oils of high molecular mass, for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:

i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g mol), ii) esters such as:

a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g/mol),

b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g/mol), c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g/mol), d) esters of C₂ -C₂₈ fatty alcohols or branched fatty acids such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1 143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g/mol),

e) esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer,

f) hydrocarbonated oils from plant origine, particularly fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), preferably from fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms such as heptanoic acid triglyceride or octanoic acid triglyceride or jojoba oil, in particular, mention can be made of :

- saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryle triheptanoate, glycerine trioctanoate, and triglycerides of Cis-36 from fatty acid (such as those commercialised under the reference DUB TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois); and

- unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil and pracaxi oil ;

- and mixtures thereof.

The esters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic acid may be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

As illustrative examples of monocarboxylic acids that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of fatty acids.

The esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of C₈ to C34, especially C₁₂ to C₂₂, in particular Ci₆ to C₂₀ and more particularly C_\».

According to one particular variant, it is more particularly the dicarboxylic acid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived.

The esters of a diol dimer and of a carboxylic acid may be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described previously, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid.

As illustrations of diol dimer esters, mention may be made especially of esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7®. According to a third embodiment, the polar oil may be a non-volatile silicon oil. In particular, the silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl silicone oils. Such an oil is also referred to as a "phenyl silicone". The term "phenyl silicone" means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.

Preferably, said silicon oil is non volatile, and is preferably chosen from:

- phenylated silicones (also known as phenylated silicone oil), such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW=9000 g mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, such as the DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID sold by Dow Corning);

- nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), or polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendent alkyl or alkoxy groups and/or alkyl or alkoxy groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

According to a third embodiment, the polar oil may be a non-volatile fluorinated oil. Said oils are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based. According to a second embodiment, the polar oil may be a volatile oil.

In particular, the polar volatile oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

- ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone;

- short-chain esters, especially containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;

- ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether;

- alcohols and especially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

It is also possible to use volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfiuoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the additional polar oils that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from octyldodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimerdihnoleate, fatty acid triglycerides, plant oils, octyldodecanol, diisostearyl malate, phenyl silicones and vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene, and mixtures thereof.

In a composition according to the invention, the said polar oil, preferably, non volatile, may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from 1% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a prefered embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oils or comprises less than 10% or even less than 5% of polar volatile oil.

Preferably, the composition of the invention is free of volatile oil.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight and even more particularly from 15% to 25% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight and even more particularly from 15% to 25% by weight of at least one polar oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to

75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight and even more particularly from 15% to 25% by weight of at least one apolar oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polar oil, preferably a polar oil, preferably chosen from C₇-₄₀ fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular caprylic/capric triglyceride.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least ethyl hexyl salicylate as polar oil. Said ethyl hexyl salicylate is also useful in the composition as a sunscreen.

In another embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one apolar oil, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene.

According to a preferred embodiment, less than 50% by weight of all the oil(s) present in composition are silicone oil(s).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of silicone oil. Solid fatty substances

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty fatty compound, preferably hydrocarbonated. Pasty fatty compounds

The term "pasty fatty compounds" (also known as pasty fatty substances) within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid liquid change in state which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, can represent from 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. At 23°C, this liquid fraction preferably represents between 15 and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of pasty substance or of wax (according to the circumstances) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible comprising the sample of pasty substance or of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is "in the solid state" when the whole of its mass is in the solid crystalline form. The pasty compound is "in the liquid state" when the whole of its mass is in the liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to Standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy necessary to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, composed of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the compound, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.

The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting compounds of vegetable origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and its derivatives,

petrolatum , particularly commercialised under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco,

- polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and their mixtures, the ether of pentaerythritol and of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the ether of pentaerythritol and of polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures and more particularly the PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether and soybean oil mixture sold under the name "Lanolide" by Vevy, in which mixture the constituents occur in a ratio by weight of 46/46/8: 46% PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether and 8% soybean oil.

- polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds,

- polymeric or nonpolymeric fluorinated compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular:

• olefin homopolymers and copolymers,

• hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

• linear or branched and homo- or copolymeric oligomers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group,

· homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

• homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C₈-C₃o alkyl groups,

- fat-soluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C₂-Cioo diols, preferably C₂-C₅o diols,

- esters,

- and/or their mixtures.

The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. Preference is given, among fat-soluble polyethers, in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and or of propylene oxide with long-chain C₆-C₃₀ alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the ratio by weight of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. Mention will in particular be made, in this family, of the copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are positioned in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the Elfacos ST9 brand by Akzo Nobel.

Preference is given, among esters, in particular to:

- the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, especially the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, prefereably such as the bis- diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 in particular, as sold under the Softisan 649 brand by Sasol,

- the arachidyl propionate sold under the Waxenol 801 brand by Alzo,

- phytosterol esters,

- triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - pentaerythritol esters,

- noncrosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C₄-C₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,

- ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester by an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid and their mixtures.

The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester advantageously results from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen from:

a) partial or complete esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

b) partial or complete esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

c) partial or complete esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

d) partial or complete esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

e) partial or complete esters of aliphatic C₂ to Ci₆ polyols which have reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid,

and their mixtures.

- esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl, dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY IS-DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/ stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Planool S), and their mixtures.

- hydrogenated rosinate esters, such as dimer dilinoleyl hydrogenated rosinate (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical)

- and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the pasty fatty compound is preferably and hydrocarbonated compound, preferably chosen from petrolatum, and/or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.

Advantageously, the pasty compound(s) preferably represents from 0.1 to 80% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 60% by weight, better still from 1 to 30% by weight and even better still from 1 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil(s) and/or pasty fatty compounds are hydrocarbonated, or less than 50% of these are siliconated.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of silicone pasty compound.

Wax(es)

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

According to a preferred embodiment the composition according to the invention comprises no hydrocarbonated waxes.

According to a preferred embodiment the composition according to the invention comprises no waxes, and particularly no waxes exhibiting a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C.

The "wax" under consideration in the context of the present invention is a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

In particular, waxes generally exhibit a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular of greater than or equal to 55°C.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of waxes which are suitable for the invention, of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the Fischer- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also their esters.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains. Mention may in particular be made, among these, of isomerized jojoba oil, such as the trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50^®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and di(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S^® by Heterene.

Additional emulsifiers

The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one additional emulsifier, different from the Ci6-C₂₅ linear fatty acid salt.

According to the invention, an additional emulsifier appropriately chosen to obtain a wax-in-water or oil-in-water emulsion is generally used. In particular, an additional emulsifier having at 25°C an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the Griffin sense, of greater than or equal to 8 may be used.

The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

These additional emulsifiers may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants or polymeric surfactants. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

The additional surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from:

a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:

- saccharide esters and ethers such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, for instance Montanov 68 from SEPPIC;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C₈-C₂4 and preferably C₁₂-Ci8 alcohol), such as oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Ceteareth-30), oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol ether containing 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Steareth-20) and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name C12-15 Pareth-7) sold under the name Neodol 25-7^® by Shell Chemicals;

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C₈-C₂₄ and preferably Ci6-C₂₂ acid) of polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P^® by the company ICI Uniqema, or else PEG-30 glyceryl stearate sold in particular under the name Tagat S^® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or else PEG- 150 distearate sold in particular under the name KESSCO PEG 6000 DS by the company ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE;

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C₈-C₂₄ and preferably Ci6-C₂₂ acid) of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glyceryl ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), for instance PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM^® by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat S^® sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat O^® sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Varionic LI 13^® sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat L^® sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat I^® from the company Evonik Goldschmidt;

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C16-C22 acid) of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), for instance polysorbate 20 sold under the name Tween 20^® by the company Croda, and polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60^® by the company Croda;

- dimethylsilane ethoxylated methyl ether, preferably containing an average of 36 moles of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax by DOW CORNING, having the INCI name BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane;

- dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5220^® by the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB 101^® and 201^® by the company Finetex);

- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also known as EO/PO polycondensates;

and mixtures thereof.

The EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, for instance polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:

H-(0-CH2-CH2)a-(0-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(0-CH2-CH2)a-OH,

in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to 100.

The EO/PO polycondensate preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15 000 and better still ranging from 2000 to 13 000. Advantageously, the said EO PO polycondensate has a cloud point, at 10 g/1 in distilled water, of greater than or equal to 20°C and preferably greater than or equal to 60°C. The cloud point is measured according to ISO standard 1065. As EO/PO polycondensates that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold in particular under the name Synperonic^®, for instance Synperonic PE/L44^® and Synperonic PE/F127^®, by the company ICI.

b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than 8 at 25°C, such as those mentioned above; mention may be made especially of:

- saccharide esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, for instance Arlatone 2121^® sold by the company ICI;

- oxyethylenated and or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C₈-C₂4 and preferably C₁₂-C)g alcohols) such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol containing two oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Steareth-2);

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C₈-C₂₄ and preferably Ci₆-C₂₂ acid) of polyols, especially of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin M^® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312® by the company Hiils, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate or glyceryl ricinoleate;

- lecithins, such as soybean lecithins (for instance Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer); - the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C^® by the company Dow Corning,

c) anionic surfactants such as:

- salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, especially those derived from amines, for instance triethanolamine stearate and/or 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol stearate. Triethanolamine stearate is generally obtained by simple mixing of stearic acid and triethanolamine;

- polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially those derived from amines or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof;

- phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N ION from the company Croda) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate or potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);

- sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate";

- alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;

- isethionates;

- acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (Amisoft HS-21 R^® sold by the company Ajinomoto) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-11 PF^® sold by the company Ajinomoto), and mixtures thereof;

- soybean derivatives, for instance potassium soyate;

- citrates, for instance glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);

- proline derivatives, for instance sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from SEPPIC) or the mixture of sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from SEPPIC);

- lactylates, for instance sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);

- sarcosinates, for instance sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the 75/25 mixture of stearoyl sarcosine and myristoyl sarcosine (Crodasin SM from Croda);

- sulfonates, for instance sodium Ci4-C₁₇ alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant);

- glycinates, for instance sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from

Ajinomoto).

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain one or more additional amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N- alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates, such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100^® by the company Phoenix Chemical.

The additional emulsifier that may be used may also be a polymeric surfactant, especially a heat-induced gelling polymer.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the additional emulsifier is chosen from PEG- 150 distearate sold under the name of Kessco PEG 6000 DS^® from ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE, dimethylsilane ethoxylated methyl ether, (such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax by DOW CORNING, having the INCI name BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane), isostearyl alcohol ( for example sold under the name Prisorine 3515-LQ-(GD) from CRODA), Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG- 100 Stearate (for example such as the product sold under name ARLACEL 165 from CRODA); POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE (for example such as the product sold under name AMPHISOL K from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS ) and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may contain from 1% to 35% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight and even better still from 5% to 20% by weight of total additional emulsifier(s) relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises dimethylsilane ethoxylated methyl ether, (such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax by DOW CORNING, having the INCI name BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and even more particularly from 2% to 8% by weight of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Moisturizing agents

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent.

Preferably, the moisturizing agent is chosen among sorbitol and polyhydric alcohols, preferably of C₂-C₁₀.

Preferably, the moisturizing agent is chosen among polyhydric alcohols, preferably of C3-C9, such as preferably glycerol or its derivatives, propylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, tripropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol ,diglycerin, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a moisturizing agent chosen from glycerin and/or caprylyl glycol and/or tripropylene glycol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 5% to 25% by weight of moisturizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to

20% by weight of moisturizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additionnal moisturizing agents

The composition according to the invention can also comprise additionnal moisturizing agents.

Preferably, the additionnal moisturizing agents are chose among urea and its derivatives such as Hydrovance^® (2-hydroxyethyl urea) marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids), serine, collagen, plankton, C-glycoside derivatives such as those disclosed in WO 02/051828 and in particular C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane under the form of a solution comprising 30% by weight of active material in a mixture of water/propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as Mexoryl SBB^® marketed by Chimex.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight of additional moisturizing agents, preferably hydrophilic moisturizing agents, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a further aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a method of caring for the skin and/or lips, and preferably the lips, comprising applying onto the skin and or lips the composition according to the present invention.

As the composition according to the invention comprises water, it is particularly advantageous to include hydrophilic moisturizing agents in the composition, as the problems of stability that can classically be encountered are avoided. It is of particular interest for lips care product, as lips products solid or liquid are generally anhydrous, or when they contains water are generally not stable, which means that it can exsudate or separate into different phases.

SEQUESTERING AGENTS

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a sequestering agent such as tetrasodium EDTA and sodium citrate.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 5% by weight and even more particularly from 0.01% to 2% by weight of sequestring agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to mean a medium compatible with keratinous substances, and more particularly the skin and/or lips, more preferably the lips, such as the oils or organic solvents commonly employed in cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more physiologically acceptable organic solvents (acceptable tolerance, acceptable toxicology and acceptable feel). Coloring material

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a coloring material chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent coloring materials, such as pigments, pearlescent agents and glitter, well known to a person skilled in the art. The colouring materials can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight.

The term pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured and inorganic or organic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the physiological medium and which are intended to color the composition.

The term pearlescent agents should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape which are in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shells or else synthesized.

The pigments can be white or colored and inorganic or organic. Mention may be made, among inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally treated at the surface, zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc, (black, yellow or red) iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and metal powders, such as aluminium powder or copper powder.

Mention may be made, among organic pigments, of carbon black, pigments of D & C type and lakes, based on cochineal carmine, of barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

Mention may also be made of effect pigments, such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic and natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, the said substrate being or not being covered with metal substances, such as aluminium, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or with metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, and their mixtures.

The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Use may also be made of interference pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight of iron oxide and/or carbon black, with respect to the weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Advantageously, the composition is free of iron oxide and free of carbon black. In this embodiment, the composition is preferably a lip product such as a lipstick.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains no coloring agent. This embodiment is particularly convenient when the composition is a lip balm.

Fillers

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more fillers, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. The term fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white and inorganic or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be inorganic or organic and of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic and the like). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon^®) (Orgasol^® from Atochem), of poly-P-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon^®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel^® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap^® from Dow Corning), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads^® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

Additives

A composition according to the invention may further comprise any ingredient conventionally used as additives in cosmetics and dermatology.

These additives are advantageously chosen among antioxidants, thickeners, sweeteners such as sodium saccharin, fragrances, aromas, preservatives, neutralizing agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles, and mixtures thereof, and may advantageously be chosen from those proposed in Table 1 of the Codex Alimentarius.

Particularly, according to the invention, cosmetic active ingredients which can be used include sunscreens, vitamins such as vitamins A, E, C and B3, pro-vitamins such as D- panthenol, soothing ingredients such as a-bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts or essential oils, protective or restructuring agents such as ceramides, refreshing agents such as menthol and derivatives thereof, emollients such as cocoa butter, bracing agents such as ethyl menthane carboxamide, agents for combating free radicals, anti-wrinkle agents, essential fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. The amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the areas concerned and, for example range from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sunscreen selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, which is a non volatile oil.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional ingredients and/or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.

A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate formulation form and its method of preparation on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and, on the other hand, the application envisaged for the composition.

A composition according to the invention can be chosen from a cosmetic lip balm, a lipstick, a rouge, a cast in a dish, a foundation in form of a stick, or a solid eye cream product.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for lips, in particular a cosmetic lip balm, a lipstick, a rouge, or a cast in a dish.

According to a preferred embodiment, it is a lips product chosen from lipstick and lip balm.

The terms "between ... and" or "from ... to" shall be defined inclusively. The examples which follow illustrate the invention without implied limitation. Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the example below are expressed in percentage (%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples 1 to 4 ; Lipstick composition

The following lip balm compositions according to the invention have been prepared.

Process for the preparation: The compounds of phase A are first heated to 60°C and mix gently (100 rpm): Transparent liquid.

Then the compounds of phase B are added and mixed gently at 60°C until a transparent mixture is obtained (150 rpm): Transparent liquid.

Then the compounds of phase C are preheated to 60°C and added to the mixture which is then mixed with a gentle vortex until it is homogeneous (500 rpm 10 minutes).

The mixture is then cooled to 50°C with gentle agitation and then the compounds of phases D and E are added and the mixture is kept under agitation until it is homogenous (400 rpm). At last, the composition is pour to mold at 50°C or cool to 40°C with gentle agitation (300 rpm) for bulk preparation of sticks of diameter 11.6 mm. The bulk are poured into a mould and let cool down to room temperature.

The resultant compositions 1 to 4 are stable and have good stick hardness (do not get crushed or broken when applied on the lips). It delivers freshness and moisturizing onto the lips in a comfortable manner, while giving easy application properties, especially in terms of slipperiness and ease of disintegration.

Claims

1. Solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(a) C16-C25 linear fatty acid salt in a content of more than or equal to 1% by weight and of less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(b) water in a content of at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition ; and

(c) at least one fatty phase comprising oil and/or pasty fatty compounds.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of Ci₆-C₂5 linear fatty acid salt is between l% and 15% by weight, in particular between 4% and 9% by weight, even more particularly between 7.5% and 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that said C16-C25 linear fatty acid salt is selected from sodium stearate and sodium behenate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the content of water is between 20% and 70% by weight, in particular between 30% and 60% by weight, and even more particularly between 40% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said fatty phase comprises at least a non-volatile oil which is selected from apolar, polar oil and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the content of fatty phase is between 0.1% and 75% by weight, in particular between 10% and 50% by weight, and even more particularly between 15% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said fatty phase comprises at least one apolar oil and at least one polar oil.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the content of polar oil is between 0.1% and 75% by weight, in particular between 10% and 50% by weight, and even more particularly between 15% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the content of apolar oil is between 0.1% and 75% by weight, in particular between 10% and 50% by weight, and even more particularly between 15% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said at least one apolar oil is selected from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, isoeicosane, squalane, and mixtures thereof and said at least one polar oil is caprylic/capric triglyceride.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises a moisturizing agent.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that said moisutrizing agent is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, tripropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the content of the moisturizing agent is between 0.1% and 40% by weight, in particular between

5% and 25% by weight, and even more particularly between 10% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises an additional emulsifier.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that said additional emulsifier is selected from PEG- 150 distearate, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the content of the additional emulsifier is between 1% and 35% by weight, in particular between

2% and 25% by weight, and even more particularly between 5% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that said additional emulsifier is bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane which is present in a content comprised between 0.1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 1% and 10% by weight, and even more particularly between 2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it comprises waxes.

19. Method of making-up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, and preferably the lips, comprising applying onto the skin and/or lips a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.