CN103458862A - Solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

A solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips is described. The composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of C16-C25 linear fatty acid salts, at least 20% by weight of water and at least one fatty phase comprising oil and/or pasty fatty compounds in a physiologically acceptable medium.

Description

The Solic cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion form

The present invention relates to keratin material, be more particularly nursing and/or the cosmetic field of lip.

Applying, aspect comfortableness, retentivity and spreadability and in the adornment effect, for example to have the exploitation of the preparation of the cosmetic of being devoted to skin and/or lip of gratifying character and/or nursing be lasting target in the gloss aspect.

With regard to lip, nowadays the lip pomade occurred at the beginning of last century has been established the status of self and be known as by user is the mode that mainly applies that lip is made up.This mode that applies is the selection approach that user is provided at lip covering and color multiformity aspect.

Certainly, this dosage form also must meet on the one hand mechanical level and requires to guarantee slip and the maintenance of lip pomade during applying and prevent its cracking, meets on the other hand the requirement of shifting quality to guarantee comfortable applying and gratifying high-quality sedimentary deposit on lip.

The present invention concentrates on the moisture lip compositions of oil-in-water emulsion form more especially.

Need improving the cosmetic product of the solid matter piece form of performance aspect pure and fresh, moist and comfortableness when applying said composition, it comprises the water with respect to the amount that is greater than 20 % by weight of composition total weight.

In addition, described compositions need to meet all described requirements in stable.

The inventor has found to obtain such compositions surprisingly, and condition is by specific anion surfactant, i.e. C ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt, more especially sodium stearate and minimum for the water of 20 % by weight and at least one fat that comprises oil and/or paste fat compound of accounting for composition total weight combined.

Therefore, according to first aspect, a theme of the present invention is for skin and/or lip, the Solic cosmetic composition of the cosmetic of preferred lip and/or the oil-in-water emulsion form of nursing, and it comprises in the acceptable medium of physiology:

(a) content is being more than or equal to 1 % by weight and being less than or equal to the C of 15 % by weight with respect to composition total weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt, particular certain cancers, as sodium stearate and sodium behenate;

(b) content is the water with respect at least 20 % by weight of composition total weight; With

(c) at least one fatty phase, it comprises oil and/or paste fat compound.

Find surprisingly, resulting composition, even wherein there is water, also stable, can there is good excellent hardness, pure and fresh, moisture feeling is provided on skin and/or lip in comfortable mode and easily deposits to skin and/or lip, preferably on lip.

In addition, described compositions has improved performance at sense organ level, Healing and/or adornment efficacious prescriptions mask, and easy imposing is provided simultaneously, and especially aspect slipping and easy disintegration (disintegration), ，Hai Ling consumer is joyful.

On the other hand, a theme of the present invention is skin and/or lip, and preferably cosmetic and/or the care method of lip, be included on skin and/or lip and apply according to compositions of the present invention.

hardness

Compositions according to the present invention is solid.

Term " solid " characterizes said composition at room temperature (25 ℃) and the state under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Term " solid composite " especially is understood to mean to have and is greater than 30 N.m ^-1the compositions of hardness.

measure the program of hardness

According to follow procedure, measured:

Before measuring hardness, lipstick stick is stored to 24 hours under 20 ℃.

Can measure hardness under 20 ℃ by " cheese silk (cheesewire) " method, it comprises the hard tungsten filament transverse cuts product rod that uses 250 microns of diameters, be preferably the cylindrical rod generated by rotation, tungsten filament moves with respect to this rod with the speed of 100 mm/min.

Use the DFGS2 ergometer that Indelco-Chatillon sells to measure with N.m ^-1the hardness of the sample of the compositions of the present invention meaned.

This measures triplicate, then averages.The meansigma methods (mark is made Y) of three values using above-mentioned ergometer to read provides in grams.This meansigma methods is converted into to newton, and then divided by L, L represents the full-size of tungsten filament process.In the situation that cylindrical rod, L equals diameter (in rice).

By under establish an equation hardness conversion become to N.m ^-1:

(Y?×?10 ^-3?×?9.8)/L

In order to measure under different temperatures, this rod stores 24 hours before measurement at this new temperature.

According to this method, the hardness of the example of compositions according to an aspect of the present invention under 20 ℃ is greater than 30 N.m ^-1, be preferably greater than 35 N.m ^-1.

According to this method, the hardness of the example of compositions according to an aspect of the present invention under 20 ℃ is less than 150 N.m ^-1, particularly be less than 100 N.m ^-1, preferably be less than 80 N.m ^-1.

Preferably there are 30 to 150 N.m according to compositions of the present invention ^-1, or 30 to 100 N.m even ^-1hardness.

Preferably there are 30 to 80 N.m according to compositions of the present invention ^-1hardness.

C ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt

The salt that compositions according to the present invention comprises the straight chain fatty acid with 16 to 25 carbon atoms, particular certain cancers, as sodium stearate and sodium behenate.

Described C ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt exists with the content that is less than or equal to 15 % by weight with 1 % by weight that is more than or equal to respect to composition total weight.

Described C ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt plays a key effect in the hardness of this solid composite.

According to a preferred embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises 1 % by weight to 15 % by weight, the particularly C of 4 % by weight to 9 % by weight with respect to composition total weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt.Said composition preferably contains 6 % by weight to 8.5 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, the more preferably C of 7.5 % by weight to 8.5 % by weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt.

According to the first embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises 4 % by weight to 15 % by weight, the particularly C of 4 % by weight to 9 % by weight with respect to composition total weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt.When this straight chain acid salt has 16 to 20 carbon atoms, this first embodiment is preferred.

Said composition preferably contains the C with respect to 6 % by weight to 8.5 % by weight of composition total weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt.When this straight chain acid salt has 16 to 20 carbon atoms, this first embodiment is preferred.

According to the second embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight, the particularly C of 1 % by weight to 6 % by weight with respect to composition total weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt.When this straight chain acid salt has 22 to 24 carbon atoms, this second embodiment is preferred.

Said composition preferably contains the C with respect to 2 % by weight to 5 % by weight of composition total weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt.When this straight chain acid salt has 22 to 24 carbon atoms, this second embodiment is preferred.

This C ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt is preferably selected from sodium stearate and sodium behenate.

Sodium stearate, also referred to as octadecanoid acid sodium, be stearic sodium salt, and stearic slaine, be known as soap.

Sodium behenate is the sodium salt of behenic acid;

In the most preferred embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises the sodium stearate with respect to 7.5 % by weight to 8.5 % by weight of composition total weight.

water

Also comprise the water with respect to the content of at least 20 % by weight of composition total weight according to compositions of the present invention.

Water can be after applying aquation (hydrate) and/or skin care and/or lip, preferably lip.

Preferably comprise 20 % by weight to 70 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 30 % by weight to 60 % by weight, the water of even more special 40 % by weight to 50 % by weight according to compositions of the present invention.

Outside dewatering, compositions of the present invention also can comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.

Water can form the continuous phase of said composition.

" aqueous phase composition continuously " used herein refers to that said composition has the electrical conductivity recorded under 25 ℃ that is more than or equal to 23 μ S/cm (microSiemens/cm), for example uses conductivity meter Mettler Toledo MPC227 and conductivity measurement pond Inlab730 to measure electrical conductivity.This measuring cell is immersed in said composition to remove the bubble that may form between two electrodes of this battery.When stablizing, reads conductivity value electrical conductivity.Be taken to the meansigma methods of few three continuous measurements.

" water-soluble solvent " used herein refer to be at room temperature compound liquid and with water miscible (being greater than the water miscibility of 50 % by weight under 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvent can be used in compositions of the present invention can be also volatile.

The water-soluble solvent can be used in compositions of the present invention can be selected from:

-comprise the low-grade monobasic alcohol of 1 to 5 carbon atom, as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol,

-comprise 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably there is the polyhydric alcohol of at least 2 hydroxyls, as glycerol or derivatives thereof, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, ethohexadiol, diglycerol, Sorbitol and composition thereof;

-C ₃and C ₄ketone and

-adducible C ₂-C ₄aldehyde,

-and their mixture.

Water-soluble solvent, polyhydric alcohol more especially, preferably in 0.01 % by weight to 30 % by weight based on composition total weight, preferred 1 to 25 % by weight, preferably the amount of 5 to 20 % by weight is present in said composition.

Water (water and optional water-miscible solvent) is preferably in 25 % by weight to 85 % by weight based on composition total weight, preferred 40 to 75 % by weight, and preferably the amount of 55 to 65 % by weight is present in said composition.

the fat phase

Compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty phase.Described fat preferably comprises oil and/or paste fat compound mutually.

Described fat preferably at least comprises the liquid aliphatic phase mutually, and it comprises at least one oil, preferably at least one nonvolatile oil.

Term " oil " refers under room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) it is the immiscible nonhydratable compound of water of liquid.

Term " nonvolatile oil " refers to that stopping at least a few hours under room temperature and atmospheric pressure on keratin material also especially has and be less than 10 ^-3the oil of the vapour pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).Nonvolatile oil also can be defined as and make under defined terms above the amount of evaporation after 30 minutes be less than 0.07 mg/cm ²evaporation rate.

These oil can be plant, mineral or synthetic source.

Described oil is preferably selected from alkyl oil, silicone oil or fluorinated oil.

Term " alkyl oil " refers to substantially by carbon and hydrogen atom and optional O and N atom and forms or form and do not contain Si and the heteroatomic oil of F.This oil can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide group.

Term " silicone oil " refers to and contains at least one silicon atom, especially contains the oil of Si-O group.

Term " fluorinated oil " refers to the oil that contains at least one fluorine atom.

Described at least one nonvolatile oil is preferably selected from non-polar oil, polar oil and composition thereof.

the alkyl non-polar oil

According to the first embodiment, according to the oil existed in compositions of the present invention, be the non-polar hydrocarbon base oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, term " non-polar oil " refers to its solubility parameter δ under 25 ℃ _aequal 0 (J/cm ³) ^1/2oil.

Article at C.M. Hansen: " The three dimensional solubility parameters ", J., definition and the calculating of the solubility parameter in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen have been described in Paint Technol. 39,105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

-δ _dsign comes from the London dispersion force of the dipole formation of bringing out in the molecular collision process;

-δ _pdebye interaction force between the sign permanent dipole and the Keesom interaction force between induced dipole and permanent dipole;

-δ _hcharacterize specific interaction force (as hydrogen bond, acid/alkali, donor/receptor etc.); And

-δ _apass through equation: δ _a=(δ _p ²+ δ _h ²) ^?measure.

Parameter δ _p, δ _h, δ _dand δ _awith (J/cm ³) ^?mean.

Term " non-polar hydrocarbon base oil " refers to and substantially by carbon and hydrogen atom, is formed or form and do not contain hetero atom, as the oil of N, O, Si and P.

The example of the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon base oil that can mention comprises alkyl oil, for example Squalene, straight or branched hydrocarbon, as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum and naphtalene oil, hydrogenation or partially hydrogenated polyisobutylene, Isoeicosane, squalane, decene/butylene copolymer, polybutene/polyisobutene co-polymer, especially Indopol L-14, poly decene, as Puresyn 10 and composition thereof.

Can mention especially and there is for example non-volatile alkyl non-polar oil of the high molecular of 650 to 10 000 g/mol, for example:

-polybutene, the Indopol H-100(molal weight or MW=965 g/mol that sell or manufacture as Amoco company), Indopol H-300(MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500(MW=2160 g/mol),

-Parleam, the Panalane H-300 E(MW that sells or manufacture as Amoco company=1340 g/mol), the Viseal 20000(MW that Synteal company sells or manufacture=6000 g/mol) and Witco company sells or the Rewopal PIB 1000(MW of manufacture=1000 g/mol)

-poly decene and hydrogenated polydecene, the Puresyn 150(MM sold as Mobil Chemicals company=9200 g/mol), and

-their mixture.

According to the second embodiment, described non-polar hydrocarbon base oil can be ethereal oil.

Term " ethereal oil " refers to can be at the oil (or non-aqueous media) that is less than evaporation in 1 hour with contact skin the time under room temperature and atmospheric pressure.This ethereal oil is to be at room temperature liquid, especially under room temperature and atmospheric pressure, has the non-zero vapour pressure, has especially 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^-3to 300 mmHg), preferably 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), preferably the volatility cosmetics oil of the vapour pressure of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

Described nonpolar ethereal oil preferably has 40 ℃ to 102 ℃, and preferably 40 ℃ to 55 ℃, the preferred flash-point of 40 ℃ to 50 ℃ (measuring flash-points according to Norme iso 3679 especially).

The nonpolar alkyl ethereal oil that can mention comprises and contains 7 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably alkyl ethereal oil of 8 to 16 carbon atoms and composition thereof, especially side chain C ₈-C ₁₆alkane, as C ₈-C ₁₆isoparaffin (also referred to as isoparaffin), Fancol ID, isodecane, 2-Methylpentadecane, and for example, the oil of selling with trade name Isopar or Permethyl, straight chain C ₈-C ₁₆alkane, the n-dodecane (C sold with label PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 respectively as Sasol ₁₂) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄) and composition thereof, hendecane-tridecane mixture, from the n-undecane (C obtained in the embodiment 1 and 2 of the application WO 2008/155059 of Cognis ₁₁) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃) mixture, and composition thereof.

According to an embodiment, be applicable to non-volatile non-polar oil of the present invention optional from polybutene, polyisobutylene, Parleam, poly decene, Isoeicosane and/or squalane and composition thereof.

According to an embodiment, be applicable to volatile nonpolar oil of the present invention and can be selected from Fancol ID and 2-Methylpentadecane and composition thereof.

In compositions according to the present invention, described non-polar oil (preferably non-volatile) can be with 0.1 % by weight to 40 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, 1 % by weight to 30 % by weight especially, and more especially the content of 2 % by weight to 20 % by weight exists.

According to a preferred embodiment, according to compositions of the present invention, containing ethereal oil or comprise, be not less than 10% or even less than 5% nonpolar ethereal oil.

According to the second embodiment, described grease separation is from non-polar oil, polar oil and composition thereof, preferably nonvolatile.

polar oil

According to the second embodiment, it according to the oil existed in compositions of the present invention, is the polar oil that is selected from alkyl oil, silicone oil, fluorinated oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, term " polar oil " refer to its solubility parameter δ under 25 ℃- _anot 0 (J/cm ³) ^1/2oil.

These additional oils can be plant, mineral or synthetic source.

Term " nonpolar hydrocarbon base oil " refers to substantially the oil that is formed or formed and do not contain any silicon or fluorine atom by carbon and hydrogen atom and optional oxygen and nitrogen-atoms.It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide group.

According to preferred the first embodiment, this polar oil can be the fixed hydrocarbon base oil.

Especially, this non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon base oil can be selected from following oily list and composition thereof:

-alkyl vegetable oil, as the liquid triglycerides of the fatty acid that contains 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example enanthic acid or Trivent OCG or Jojoba oil;

The hydrocarbyl carbonate of-Shi RCOOR ', the carboxylic acid residues that wherein RCOO representative contains 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R ' the representative hydrocarbyl chain that contains 1 to 30 carbon atom, as isononyl isononanoate, erucic acid oil alcohol ester or neopentanoic acid 2-octyl group dodecyl ester;

-sucrose and C ₂-C ₆the hydrocarbyl carbonate of carboxylic acid, be selected from especially the mixed ester of acetic acid and isopropylformic acid. and sucrose, be preferably oxalic acid-six (2 Methylpropionic acid) sucrose ester, product (the INCI name: sucrose ethyl ester isobutyl ester) of running after fame and selling with Sustane SAIB food stage kosher as EASTMAN CHEMICAL corporations;

The polyester that-condensation by unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and glycol obtains, those as described in patent application FR 0 853 634, especially for example dilinoleic acid and BDO.Especially can mention in this respect Biosynthis with Viscoplast 14436H(INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) the run after fame polymer sold or the copolymer of polyhydric alcohol and diacid dimer, and ester, as Hailuscent ISDA;

-the fatty alcohol that contains 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, 2-butyl capryl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

-C ₁₂-C ₂₂higher fatty acids, as oleic acid, linoleic acid plus linolenic acid and composition thereof,

The oil of-plant origin, as Oleum sesami (820.6 g/mol),

-the fatty acid that contains 12 to 26 carbon atoms, oleic acid for example,

-dialkyl carbonate, 2 alkyl chains can be identical or different, the dicaprylyl carbonate of running after fame and selling with Cetiol CC as Cognis, and

-the nonvolatile oil of the high molecular of 650 to 10 000 g/mol for example, for example:

I) vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, as vinyl pyrrolidone/cetene copolymer, the Antaron V-216(MW that ISP company sells or manufactures=7300 g/mol),

Ii) ester, as:

A) straight-chain fatty acid ester that total carbon number is 35 to 70, tetramethylolmethane four pelargonates (MW=697.05 g/mol) for example,

B) hydroxylating ester, as polyglycereol-2 three isostearate (MW=965.58 g/mol),

C) aromatic ester, as tridecyl alcohol trimellitate (MW=757.19 g/mol),

D) C ₂₄-C ₂₈the ester of fatty alcohol or branched chain fatty acid, those as described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, especially three Isoeicosane alcohol citrates (MW=1033.76 g/mol), the different pelargonate of tetramethylolmethane four (MW=697.05 g/mol), three glyceryl isostearates (MW=891.51 g/mol), three (2-decyl) four caprins (MW=1143.98 g/mol), pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate (MW=1202.02 g/mol), polyglycereol-2 tetraoctyl stearate (MW=1232.04 g/mol) or tetramethylolmethane four (2-decyl) four decanoins (MW=1538.66 g/mol),

E) ester of glycol dimer and monocarboxylic acid or dicarboxylic acids and polyester, as the ester of glycol dimer and fatty acid, and the ester of glycol dimer and dicarboxylic acids dimer,

F) the alkyl oil, particularly fatty acid triglycercide of plant origin (being at room temperature liquid), be preferably the fatty acid with 7 to 40 carbon atoms, as D3-C7 or Trivent OCG or Jojoba oil; Can mention especially:

-saturated triglyceride, as caprylic/capric triglyceride, triheptin, tricaprylin and C _18-36fatty acid triglycercide (those that sell with label DUB TGI 24 as Stearineries Dubois); With

-unsaturated triglyceride, as Oleum Ricini, olive oil, extra large sandalwood oil and Ba Kasi oil;

-and composition thereof.

Glycol dimer and monocarboxylic ester can be available from containing 4 to 34 carbon atoms, the especially monocarboxylic acid of 10 to 32 carbon atoms, and this acid is straight or branched, saturated or undersaturated.

As being applicable to monocarboxylic illustrative examples of the present invention, especially can mention fatty acid.

The ester of glycol dimer and dicarboxylic acids can be by especially derived from C especially ₈to C ₃₄, C especially ₁₂to C ₂₂, C particularly ₁₆to C ₂₀, C more especially ₁₈the dicarboxylic acids dimer of dimerization of unsaturated fatty acid obtain.

According to a specific variants, it is the dicarboxylic acids dimer more especially, also by it, derives the glycol dimer for the treatment of esterification.

The ester of glycol dimer and carboxylic acid can be available from by dicarboxylic acids dimer as above, the glycol dimer that for example catalytic hydrogenation of hydrogenation two inferior oily diacid is made.

As the example of glycol dimer ester, especially can mention Nippon Fine Chemical company with trade name Lusplan DD-DA5 and two inferior oily diacid of DD-DA7 sale and the ester of two inferior oily glycol dimers.

According to the 3rd embodiment, this polar oil can be non-volatile silicone oil.

This silicone oil can be selected from phenyl silicones oil especially.

This oil also is known as " phenyl silicones ".Term " phenyl silicones " refers to the organopolysiloxane replaced by least one phenyl.

Described silicone oil is preferably non-volatile and be preferably selected from:

-phenylating silicone (also being known as the phenylating silicone oil), as the Belsil PDM 1000(MW=9000 g/mol from Wacker), the poly-trimethicone of phenyl (the poly-trimethicone of phenyl of selling with trade name DC556 as Dow Corning), phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl base) trisiloxanes, trimethyl pentapheneyl trisiloxanes, the DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID sold as Dow Corning);

-non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) or comprise the side alkyl or alkoxyl and/or at the alkyl of silicone chains end or the polydimethylsiloxane of alkoxyl, described group has 2 to 24 carbon atoms separately.

According to the 3rd embodiment, this polar oil can be non-volatile fluorinated oil.Described oily optional part ground alkyl and/or silicone base.

According to the second embodiment, this polar oil can be ethereal oil.

Especially, this polarity ethereal oil can be selected from following oily list and composition thereof:

-be at room temperature the ketone of liquid, as butanone or acetone;

-short-chain ester, contain 3 to 8 carbon atoms, especially altogether as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;

-be at room temperature the ether of liquid, as Anaesthetie Ether, dimethyl ether or Dichlorodiethyl ether;

-alcohol, especially contain the straight or branched low-grade monobasic alcohol of 2 to 5 carbon atoms, as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or normal propyl alcohol.

Also can use volatility fluoro oil, as Nonafluoromethoxybutcompositions or FLUTEC PC 1 trifluoromethyl-cyclopentane. and composition thereof.

According to an embodiment, be applicable to additional polar oil of the present invention and can be selected from octyl group dodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleic acid ester, fatty acid triglycercide, vegetable oil, octyldodecanol, two isooctadecanol malates, phenyl silicones and vinyl pyrrolidone/1-hexadecylene and composition thereof.

In compositions according to the present invention, described polar oil (preferably non-volatile) can be with 0.1 % by weight to 40 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, 1 % by weight to 30 % by weight especially, and more especially the content of 2 % by weight to 20 % by weight exists.

According to a preferred embodiment, according to compositions of the present invention, containing ethereal oil or comprise, be not less than 10% or even less than 5% polarity ethereal oil.

Compositions of the present invention is not preferably containing ethereal oil.

Preferably comprise 0.1 % by weight to 75 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight, the fatty phase of even more special 15 % by weight to 25 % by weight according to compositions of the present invention.

Preferably comprise 0.1 % by weight to 75 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight, at least one polar oil of even more special 15 % by weight to 25 % by weight according to compositions of the present invention.

Preferably comprise 0.1 % by weight to 75 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight, at least one non-polar oil of even more special 15 % by weight to 25 % by weight according to compositions of the present invention.

In a preferred embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one polar oil, is preferably and is preferably selected from C _7-40fatty acid triglycercide (being at room temperature liquid), the particularly polar oil of caprylic/capric triglyceride.

In a preferred embodiment, at least comprise salicylic acid ethyl ester hexyl ester as polar oil according to compositions of the present invention.Described salicylic acid ethyl ester hexyl ester also can be used as sunscreen in said composition.

In another embodiment, said composition can comprise at least one non-polar oil, as Parleam.

According to a preferred embodiment, 50 % by weight that are less than of one or more the whole oil that exist in said composition are one or more silicone oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, said composition is not containing silicone oil.

the hard fat material

Also can comprise mutually at least one paste fat compound according to the fat of compositions of the present invention, preferred hydrocarbonylation.

the paste fat compound

Term " paste fat compound " (also referred to as paste fat matter) is understood to mean in implication of the present invention to have reversible solid-liquid change of state, show the aeolotropic crystal arrangement and comprise liquid in solid-state at the temperature of 23 ℃ partly and the lipotropy fatty compound of solid portion.

In other words, the initial fusing point of pasty state compound can be less than 23 ℃.The liquid part of this pasty state compound recorded under 23 ℃ can account for 9 % by weight to 97 % by weight of this compound.Under 23 ℃, this liquid part preferably accounts for 15 to 85 % by weight, more preferably 40 to 85 % by weight.

In implication of the present invention, fusing point is equivalent to as standard ISO 11357-3; Analyze by heat the temperature of high endothermic peak that (DSC) observes described in 1999.Can use differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (DSC), for example TA Instruments measures the fusing point of pasty mass or wax with " MDSC 2920 " run after fame calorimeter of selling.

Process of measurement is as follows:

The 5 milligrams of pasty masses or wax (depending on the circumstances) sample that are opposite in crucible impose the intensification for the first time from-20 ℃ to 100 ℃ with 10 ℃ of/minute rates of heat addition, then be cooled to-20 ℃ with the cooldown rate of 10 ℃/minute from 100 ℃, finally impose the intensification for the second time from-20 ℃ to 100 ℃ with 5 ℃ of/minute rates of heat addition.In temperature-rise period for the second time, vary with temperature the variation of the difference of measuring the energy that empty crucible and the crucible that comprises pasty mass or wax sample absorb.The fusing point of this compound is temperature value corresponding to the summit of the curve that changes with mean absorbing that energy difference varies with temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of this pasty state compound under 23 ℃ equals under 23 ℃ the ratio of the fusion enthalpy of the fusion enthalpy that consumes and this pasty state compound.

The fusion enthalpy of this pasty state compound is the enthalpy that this compound consumes from solid-state liquefy.This pasty state compound is " solid-state " when its all-mass is solid crystallization way.This pasty state compound is " liquid state " when its all-mass is liquid form.

The fusion enthalpy of this pasty state compound equals to use differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (DSC), as TA Instruments with the run after fame area under a curve of the thermogram that the calorimeter sold obtains with the heating rate of 5 ℃ or 10 ℃/minute according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999 of MDSC 2920.The fusion enthalpy of this pasty state compound is the energy that makes this compound required from solid-state liquefy.It means with J/g.

The fusion enthalpy consumed under 23 ℃ is this sample for from solid-state, becoming the energy that its state consisted of liquid part and solid portion shown absorbs 23 ℃.

The liquid part of this pasty state compound recorded under 32 ℃ preferably accounts for 30 % by weight to 100 % by weight of this compound, preferably accounts for 50 % by weight to 100 % by weight of this compound, more preferably accounts for 60 % by weight to 100 % by weight of this compound.When the liquid of this pasty state compound recorded under 32 ℃ partly equals 100%, the outlet temperature of the fusion range of this pasty state compound is less than or equal to 32 ℃.

The liquid fraction of this pasty state compound recorded under 32 ℃ equals under 32 ℃ the ratio of the fusion enthalpy of the fusion enthalpy that consumes and this pasty state compound.With the fusion enthalpy with consuming under 23 ℃, identical mode is calculated the fusion enthalpy consumed under 32 ℃.

This pasty state compound is preferably selected from the compound of synthetic compound and plant origin.Can be by the synthetic pasty state compound that obtains of the starting compound of plant origin.

This pasty state compound advantageously is selected from:

-lanoline and derivant thereof,

-vaseline, especially run after fame and sell with ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco,

-polyol ethers, be selected from the ether of tetramethylolmethane and ployalkylene glycol, fatty alcohol and sugared ether and composition thereof, ether (the CTFA name: PEG-5 tetramethylolmethane ether) of tetramethylolmethane and the Polyethylene Glycol that comprises 5 ethylene oxides (5 OE) unit, the ether of tetramethylolmethane and the polypropylene glycol that comprises 5 propylene oxides (5 OP) unit (the CTFA name: PPG-5 tetramethylolmethane ether) and composition thereof, the PEG-5 tetramethylolmethane ether that more especially Vevy runs after fame and sells with " Lanolide ", PPG-5 tetramethylolmethane ether and soybean oil blend, in this mixture, each composition is with 46/46/8:46% PEG-5 tetramethylolmethane ether, the weight ratio of 46% PPG-5 tetramethylolmethane ether and 8% soybean oil exists,

-polymerization or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

-polymerization or non-polymeric fluorinated compound,

-polyvinyl, particularly:

Olefin homo and copolymer,

Hydrogenated diene homopolymer and copolymer,

Preferably there is C ₈-C ₃₀the linearity of (methyl) alkyl acrylate of alkyl or branching and homopolymerization or copolymerized oligomer,

There is C ₈-C ₃₀the homopolymerization of the vinyl esters of alkyl or copolymerized oligomer,

There is C ₈-C ₃₀the homopolymerization of the vinyl ethers of alkyl or copolymerized oligomer,

-by one or more C ₂-C ₁₀₀glycol, preferably C ₂-C ₅₀the fat-soluble polyethers of the polyethers generation between glycol,

-ester,

-and/or their mixture.

This pasty state compound is polymer, especially hydrocarbon polymer preferably.

In fat-soluble polyethers, particularly preferably mention oxirane and/or expoxy propane and long-chain C ₆-C ₃₀the copolymer of alkylene oxide, more preferably making the weight ratio of oxirane in this copolymer and/or expoxy propane and alkylene oxide is 5:95 to 70:30.At this apoplexy due to endogenous wind, mention especially and take block form and have the copolymer of the long-chain alkylene oxide of mean molecule quantity as 1000 to 10 000, polyethylene glycol oxide/poly-dodecanediol block copolymer for example, the dodecanediol (22 moles) of selling with trade mark Elfacos ST9 as Akzo Nobel and the ether of Polyethylene Glycol (45 OE).

In this ester, particularly preferably be:

The ester of-low polyglycereol; diglyceride particularly; especially the condensation substance of adipic acid and glycerol; wherein a part of hydroxyl of glycerol with fatty acid; mixture reaction as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxy stearic acid; two many acyl groups of diglycerol adipic acid-2 esters of preferably selling with trade mark Softisan 649 as Sasol especially

The arachidic alcohol propionic ester that-Alzo sells with trade mark Waxenol 801,

-plant sterol ester,

The triglyceride of-fatty acid and derivant thereof,

-pentaerythritol ester;

-by straight or branched C ₄-C ₅₀dicarboxylic acids or polybasic carboxylic acid and C ₂-C ₅₀the non-crosslinked polyester that polycondensation between glycol or polyhydric alcohol produces,

-the aliphatic (acid) ester that produced by the aliphatic carboxylic acid esterification by the aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acids ester.This aliphatic carboxylic acid preferably comprises 4 to 30, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.It is preferably selected from caproic acid, enanthic acid, sad, 2 ethyl hexanoic acid, n-nonanoic acid, capric acid, hendecanoic acid, dodecylic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoid acid, isostearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachic acid, different arachidic acid, octyl group dodecylic acid, heneicosanoic acid and behenic acid and composition thereof.

This aliphatic carboxylic acid is side chain preferably.This aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acids ester is advantageously by comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferred 10 to 34 carbon atoms, and 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 hydroxyl better, preferred 1 to 10 hydroxyl, the hydroxylation of aliphatic carboxylic acid of 1 to 6 hydroxyl produces better.This aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acids ester is selected from:

A) the monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid's of saturated straight chain partial ester or full ester;

B) unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid's partial ester or full ester;

C) partial ester of saturated mono hydroxylation of aliphatic polybasic carboxylic acid or full ester;

D) saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid's partial ester or full ester;

E) the aliphatic C reacted with monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid or polybasic carboxylic acid ₂to C ₁₆the partial ester of polyhydric alcohol or full ester,

F) and composition thereof,

The ester of-dimer diol and dimeric dibasic acid, if suitably, they one or more free alcohol or acid functional group on by acid or alcohol groups esterification, particularly dimerization dilinoleic acid ester; Such ester can be selected from the ester with following INCI name especially: the two-behenyl alcohol/isooctadecanol/inferior oleyl alcohol dimerization of plant sterol dimerization two dilinoleic acid ester (Plandool G), plant sterol isooctadecanol dimerization dilinoleic acid ester (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY/IS-DA), plant sterol/isooctadecanol/spermol/stearyl alcohol/behenyl alcohol dimerization dilinoleic acid ester (Plandool H or Planool S) and composition thereof.

-hydrogenated rosins acid esters, oleyl alcohol hydrogenated rosins acid esters as inferior as dimerization two (from Lusplan DD-DHR or the DD-DHR of Nippon Fine Chemical)

-and composition thereof.

Advantageously, this paste fat compound is the hydrocarbonylation compound preferably, is preferably selected from vaseline and/or two many acyl groups of diglycerol adipic acid-2 ester.

Advantageously, described one or more pasty state compounds preferably account for 0.1 to 80 % by weight of composition total weight, better 0.5 to 60 % by weight, 1 to 30 % by weight, 1 to 20 % by weight even better better.

According to a preferred embodiment, described one or more oil and/or paste fat compound are hydrocarbonylations, or being less than of these 50% is silication.

According to a preferred embodiment, said composition is not containing silicone pasty state compound.

one or more waxes

According to a specific embodiments, according to compositions of the present invention, can comprise at least one wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, according to compositions of the present invention, do not comprise alkyl wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, according to the compositions of the present invention content of wax not, particularly do not exist and show the wax that fusing point is more than or equal to 45 ℃.

" wax " considered in context of the present invention is is solid under ambient temperature (25 ℃), show reversible solid-liquid change of state and have the lipophilic compound of the fusing point (it can be up to 200 ℃, particularly is up to 120 ℃) that is more than or equal to 30 ℃.

Wax especially usually shows and is more than or equal to 45 ℃, particularly is more than or equal to the fusing point of 55 ℃.

As the example that is applicable to wax of the present invention, can mention chloroflo especially, as Cera Flava, lanolin wax, insect wax, rice bran wax, Brazil wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax (esparto wax), berry wax (berry wax), shellac wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax and Fructus Citri Limoniae wax, microwax, paraffin wax, ceresine, Tissuemat E, synthesize wax and wax-like copolymer and the ester thereof obtained by Fischer-Tropsch.

Also can mention by thering is straight or branched C ₈-C ₃₂the wax that the catalytic hydrogenation of the animal or plant oil of aliphatic chain obtains.Wherein can mention the isomerization Jojoba oil especially, partial hydrogenation Jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, castor oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and the Heterene of the trans-isomerism of manufacturing with trade name Iso-Jojoba-50 as Desert Whale or selling with Hest 2T-4S run after fame sell two (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate.

additional emulsifiers

Also can contain at least one according to compositions of the present invention and be different from C ₁₆-C ₂₅the additional emulsifiers of straight chain acid salt.

According to the present invention, be usually used as acquisition water bag wax pattern or oil-in-water emulsion and the suitable additional emulsifiers of selecting.Especially, can use the HLB under 25 ℃ in the Griffin meaning to be more than or equal to the 8(hydrophil lipophil balance) additional emulsifiers.

At J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (the 5th volume), defined the HLB value according to Griffin in the 249-256 page.

These additional emulsifiers can be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactant or polymeric surfactant.Definition about character He (emulsifying) function of surfactant, can list of references " Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology; Kirk-Othmer ", the 22nd volume, 333-432 page, the 3rd edition, 1979, the 347-377 page of Wiley, particularly this reference material, relate to anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactant.

According to the additional surfactants of preferably using in compositions of the present invention, be selected from:

A) be more than or equal to 8 nonionic surfactant alone or as the HLB under 25 ℃ that mixture is used; Especially can mention:

-sugar ester and ether, as the mixture of cetearyl alcohol glucosides and spermol and stearyl alcohol, for example, from the Montanov 68 of SEPPIC;

The ethylene oxide of-glycerol and/or propylene oxide ether (it can comprise 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide group);

-fatty alcohol (C especially ₈-C ₂₄, preferred C ₁₂-C ₁₈alcohol) ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ether (it can comprise 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide group), as the ethylene oxide ceteareth that contains 30 ethylene oxide groups (CTFA name Ceteareth-30), the stearic alcohol ether (CTFA name Steareth-20) of ethylene oxideization that contains 20 ethylene oxide groups and Shell Chemicals are with the run after fame C that comprises 7 ethylene oxide groups of sale of Neodol 25-7 ₁₂-C ₁₅the ethylene oxide ether of the mixture of fatty alcohol (CTFA name C _12-15pareth-7);

The fatty acid ester of-Polyethylene Glycol (it can comprise 1 to 150 ethylene glycol unit) (is especially C ₈-C ₂₄, preferred C ₁₆-C ₂₂acid), PEG-50 stearate and the PEG-40 monostearate of running after fame and selling with Myrj 52P as ICI Uniqema company, or the Evonik Goldschmidt company PEG-30 glyceryl stearate of running after fame and selling with Tagat S especially, or the ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE company PEG-150 distearate of running after fame and selling with KESSCO PEG 6000 DS especially;

The fatty acid ester of-ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide glycerin ether (it can comprise 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide group) (is especially C ₈-C ₂₄, preferred C ₁₆-C ₂₂acid), the PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate that for example SEPPIC company runs after fame and sells with Simulsol 220 TM, tristerin with 30 many ethoxylations of ethylene oxide group, the product Tagat S that for example Evonik Goldschmidt company sells, olein with 30 many ethoxylations of ethylene oxide group, the product Tagat O that for example Evonik Goldschmidt company sells, glyceryl cocoate with 30 many ethoxylations of ethylene oxide group, the product Varionic LI 13 that for example Sherex company sells, glyceryl isostearate with 30 many ethoxylations of ethylene oxide group, the product Tagat L that for example Evonik Goldschmidt company sells, with the glyceryl laurate ester with 30 many ethoxylations of ethylene oxide group, for example, from the product Tagat I of Evonik Goldschmidt company,

The fatty acid ester of-ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide sorbose alcohol ether (it can comprise 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide group) (is especially C ₈-C ₂₄, preferred C ₁₆-C ₂₂acid), for example Croda company with Tween 20 polysorbate60 that the polysorbate20 sold and Croda company run after fame and sell with Tween 60 of running after fame;

-dimethylsilane ethoxylation methyl ether, preferably contain average 36 moles of ethylene oxide, and as the product that DOW CORNING runs after fame and sells with Dow Corning 2501 cosmetics waxes, INCI is called BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane;

-dimethicone copolyol, the product of running after fame and selling with Q2-5220 as Dow Corning company;

-dimethicone copolyol benzoate (the Finsolv SLB 101 and 201 of Finetex company);

The copolymer of-expoxy propane and oxirane, also referred to as the EO/PO condensation polymer;

And composition thereof.

The copolymer that this EO/PO condensation polymer more especially consists of Polyethylene Glycol and polypropylene glycol block, for example polyethylene/polypropylene glycol/Polyethylene Glycol three block polycondensates.These three block polycondensates have for example the following chemical structure:

H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH,

In the formula, a be 2 to 120 and b be 1 to 100.

This EO/PO condensation polymer preferably has 1000 to 15 000, better 2000 to 13 000 weight average molecular weight.Advantageously, described EO/PO condensation polymer has and is more than or equal to 20 ℃, preferably greater than or equal to the cloud point in distilled water with 10 g/l of 60 ℃.Measure cloud point according to iso standard 1065.As EO/PO condensation polymer that can be used according to the invention, can mention ICI company especially with Synperonic, polyethylene/polypropylene glycol/Polyethylene Glycol three block polycondensates that for example Synperonic PE/L44 and Synperonic PE/F127 run after fame and sell.

B) nonionic surfactant that the HLB under 25 ℃ is less than 8, the nonionic surfactant that optional and one or more HLB under 25 ℃ are greater than 8, those combinations As mentioned above; Especially can mention:

-sugar ester and ether, as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocos nucifera oil acid esters and sorbitan stearate and composition thereof, the Arlatone 2121 that for example ICI company sells;

-fatty alcohol (C especially ₈-C ₂₄, preferred C ₁₂-C ₁₈alcohol) ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ether (it can comprise 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide group), as the ethylene oxide ether of the stearyl alcohol that contains two ethylene oxide groups (CTFA name Steareth-2);

The fatty acid ester of-polyhydric alcohol, especially glycerol or Sorbitol (C especially ₈-C ₂₄, preferred C ₁₆-C ₂₂acid), the product of running after fame and selling with Tegin M as Evonik Goldschmidt company as tristerin, tristerin, glyceryl laurate ester, as the product that H ü ls company runs after fame and sells with Imwitor 312, polyglycereol-2 stearate, anhydrosorbitol tristearate or glycerol ricinoleate;

-lecithin, as soybean lecithin (for example, from Emulmetik 100 J of Cargill or from the Biophilic H of Lucas Meyer);

-Dow Corning company is with the run after fame mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol of selling of Q2-3225C.

C) anionic surfactant, as:

-C ₁₆-C ₃₀the salt of fatty acid, especially derived from those of amine, for example triethanolamine stearate and/or AMPD stearate.Triethanolamine stearate obtains by the simple mixing of stearic acid and triethanolamine usually;

-polyoxyethylene alkylene soap, especially derived from those of amine or alkali metal salt, and composition thereof;

-phosphate ester and salt thereof, as " oleth-10 phosphate ester DEA salt " (from the Crodafos N 10N of Croda company) or single Phosphoric acid monohexadecyl ester monopotassium salt or Phosphoric acid monohexadecyl ester potassium salt (from the Amphisol K of Givaudan);

-sulfosuccinate, as " PEG-5 citrate sulfo-succinic acid dodecyl ester disodium " and " ricinoleic acid amide base MEA sulfosuccinate disodium ";

-alkyl ether sulfate, as sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate;

-isethionate;

-acyl glutamate, as " hydrogenated tallow disodium glutamate " (Amisoft HS-21 R that Ajinomoto company sells) and stearoyl-glutamic acid sodium (the Amisoft HS-11 PF that Ajinomoto company sells) and composition thereof;

-soybean derivatives, for example Semen sojae atricolor potassium oleate;

-citrate, for example Glyceryl stearate citrate (from Axol C 62 Pellets of Degussa);

-proline derivative, for example mixture (from the Sepifeel One of SEPPIC) of palmityl Sodium proline (from the Sepicalm VG of SEPPIC) or palmitoyl sarcosine sodium, palmityl psicosoma, Palmic acid and palmityl proline;

-lactate, for example sodium stearoyl lactate (from the Akoline SL of Karlshamns AB);

-sarcosinate, for example 75/25 mixture (from the Crodasin SM of Croda) of palmitoyl sarcosine sodium (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or Hamposyl S and myristoyl-N-methylaminoacetic acid;

-sulfonate, for example C ₁₄-C ₁₇sAS (from the Hostapur SAS 60 of Clariant);

-glycinate, for example cocos nucifera oil acyl Glycine sodium (from the Amilite GCS-12 of Ajinomoto).

Also can contain one or more additional amphoteric surfactant according to compositions of the present invention; N-acylamino acid for example; as N-p dialkylaminobenzoic acid ester and cocos nucifera oil acyl both sexes base oxalic acid disodium; and amine oxide; as the stearylamine oxide; or silicone surfactant, dimethicone copolyol phosphate ester for example, the product of running after fame and selling with Pecosil PS 100 as Phoenix Chemical company.

Available additional emulsifiers can be also polymeric surfactant, especially thermic gel polymer.

According to a specific embodiments of the present invention, this additional emulsifiers is selected from the PEG-150 distearate that ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE runs after fame and sells with Kessco PEG 6000 DS, the dimethylsilane ethoxylation methyl ether (product of running after fame and selling with Dow Corning 2501 cosmetics waxes as DOW CORNING, INCI is called BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane), isooctadecanol (for example CRODA is with Prisorine 3515-LQ-(GD) sale of running after fame), tristerin (with) PEG-100 stearate (product that for example CRODA runs after fame and sells with ARLACEL 165), phosphoric acid cetyl potassium salt (product that for example DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS runs after fame and sells with AMPHISOL K) and composition thereof.

Can contain 1 % by weight to 35 % by weight with respect to described composition total weight according to compositions of the present invention, better 2 % by weight to 25 % by weight, one or more total additional emulsifiers of 5 % by weight to 20 % by weight even better.

Preferably comprise dimethylsilane ethoxylation methyl ether (as the product that DOW CORNING runs after fame and sells with Dow Corning 2501 cosmetics waxes, INCI is called BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane) according to compositions of the present invention.

Preferably comprise 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight according to compositions of the present invention, even more special 2 % by weight to 8 % by weight two-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane.

Wetting agent

According to a preferred embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one wetting agent.

This wetting agent is preferably selected from Sorbitol and polyhydric alcohol, preferably C ₂-C ₁₀.

This wetting agent is preferably selected from preferred C ₃-C ₉polyhydric alcohol, for example preferably glycerine or derivatives thereof, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, tripropylene glycol, ethohexadiol, diglycerol and composition thereof.

Preferably at least comprise the wetting agent that is selected from glycerol and/or ethohexadiol and/or tripropylene glycol according to compositions of the present invention.

Preferably comprise 0.1 % by weight to 40 % by weight, the particularly wetting agent of 5 % by weight to 25 % by weight with respect to composition total weight according to compositions of the present invention.

Preferably comprise the wetting agent with respect to 10 % by weight to 20 % by weight of composition total weight according to compositions of the present invention.

adjunct humectant

Also can comprise adjunct humectant according to compositions of the present invention.

This adjunct humectant is preferably selected from urea and derivant thereof, Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethyl urea), lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, the AHA(alpha-hydroxy acid sold as National Starch), the BHA(beta hydroxy acid), serine, collagen, plankton, C-glycosides derivatives, as those disclosed in WO 02/051828, the C-β of the solution form that particularly in water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40 % by weight), comprises 30 % by weight active materials-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy propane, as the Mexoryl SBB of Chimex sale.

Preferably comprise 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight, the particularly adjunct humectant of 0.5 % by weight to 10 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, preferred hydrophilic wetting agent according to compositions of the present invention.

On the other hand, a theme of the present invention is skin and/or lip, and preferably the care method of lip, be included on skin and/or lip and apply according to compositions of the present invention.

Because compositions according to the present invention comprises water, comprise that in said composition the hydrophilic wetting agent is advantageous particularly, because avoid the stability problem that usually can run into.This is meaningful especially to the lip care product, because solid or liquid lip care product are usually anhydrous, or when they contain water, usually unstable, this means that it can ooze out (exsudate) or be separated into not homophase.

sequestering agent

Preferably comprise sequestering agent according to compositions of the present invention, as EDTA tetra-sodium and sodium citrate.

Preferably comprise 0.01 % by weight to 10 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 0.01 % by weight to 5 % by weight, the sequestering agent of even more special 0.01 % by weight to 2 % by weight according to compositions of the present invention.

the acceptable medium of physiology

Term " the acceptable medium of physiology " is understood to mean and keratin substances, more special skin and/or lip, and the more preferably compatible medium of lip, as be commonly used in oil or the organic solvent in cosmetic composition.

Also can comprise the acceptable organic solvent of one or more physiologys (acceptable toleration, acceptable toxicology and acceptable sense of touch) according to the acceptable medium of the physiology of compositions of the present invention.

coloured material

Can comprise in addition to be selected from according to compositions of the present invention and well known to a person skilled in the art water-soluble dye and coloured powdery material, as the coloured material of pigment, pearling agent and glitter (glitter).This coloured material can be with 0.01 % by weight to 30 % by weight of composition weight, and preferably the content of 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight is present in said composition.

Term pigment should be understood to mean white or coloured and the inorganic or organic granule that is insoluble to Physiological Medium and is intended to any shape that said composition is painted.

The term pearling agent should be understood to mean the iris granule of any shape, and it is produced in their shell by some Mollusca especially, or synthetic.

This pigment can be white or coloured with inorganic or organic.In inorganic pigment, can mention titanium dioxide (optional surface treatment), zirconium or cerium oxide and zinc, (black, yellow or redness) ferrum or chromated oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium, barba hispanica and metal dust, as aluminium powder or copper powder.

In organic pigment, can mention white carbon black, D & The color lake of the pigment of C type and the barium based on alkermes, strontium, calcium or aluminum.

Can also mention effect pigment, as comprise organic or inorganic and natural or synthetic base material, the granule of glass, acrylic resin, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, pottery or aluminium oxide for example, described base material by or not by metallics, as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze or by metal-oxide, as titanium dioxide, ferrum oxide or chromium oxide and the covering of their mixture.

Pearlescent pigment is optional from white pearlescent pigment, as oxidized titanium or the Muscovitum that covered by bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigment, the Muscovitum of the Muscovitum of the Muscovitum of the titanium-oxide-coated covered as oxidized ferrum, the titanium-oxide-coated that covered by barba hispanica or chromium oxide especially or the titanium-oxide-coated covered by the organic pigment of the above-mentioned type, and the pearlescent pigment based on bismuth oxychloride.Can also use coated interference pigment, particularly liquid crystal or multi-layer pigments.

Water-soluble dye is for example beet root juice or methylene blue.

According to a specific embodiments, compositions according to the present invention contains the ferrum oxide that is less than 1 % by weight and/or the white carbon black that accounts for composition weight, preferably is less than 0.1 % by weight.Advantageously, oxygen-freeization of said composition ferrum and containing white carbon black.In this embodiment, said composition is lip product preferably, as lip pomade.

According to a specific embodiments, according to compositions of the present invention, do not contain coloring agent.When said composition is lip-stick (lip balm), this embodiment is convenient especially.

filler

Can comprise in addition one or more fillers according to compositions of the present invention, particularly account for 0.01 % by weight to 30 % by weight of composition total weight, preferably the content of 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight.The term filler should be understood to mean colourless or white and the inorganic or synthetic granule of any shape, and they are insoluble in the medium of said composition, the temperature when manufacturing said composition.These fillers are used in particular for changing rheological characteristic or the quality of said composition.

Filler can be inorganic or organically and have any shape a---slice-shaped, spherical or oval, regardless of crystal formation (such as lamellar (sheet), cube, six sides, oblique side etc.).Can mention Talcum, Muscovitum, silicon dioxide, Kaolin, the powder formed by polyamide (Nylon) (from the Orgasol of Atochem), the powder formed by poly--Beta-alanine and polyethylene, the powder formed by tetrafluoro ethylene polymer (Teflon), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microsphere, as poly-(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile microsphere, Expancel (Nobel Industrie) for example, or acrylic copolymer microsphere (from the Polytrap of Dow Corning), winnofil, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microsphere (from the Silica Beads of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsule, or derived from thering are 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the preferred metallic soap of the organic carboxyl acid of 12 to 18 carbon atoms, zinc stearate for example, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt or magnesium myristate.

additive

Can further comprise according to compositions of the present invention any composition that is used as traditionally the additive in cosmetics and Dermatology.

These additives advantageously are selected from antioxidant, thickening agent, sweeting agent as saccharin sodium, spice, aromatic, antiseptic, nertralizer, hydrophilic or lipophilic active component and composition thereof, and can advantageously be selected from those that mention in the table 1 of Codex Alimentarius.

Especially; according to the present invention; available cosmetic active ingredient comprises sunscreen; vitamin is as Vitamin A, E, C and B3; provitamin is as D-panthenol; releive composition as α-bisabolol, Aloe, allantoin, plant extract or quintessence oil; protective agent or recombinagen (restructuring agents) are as ceramide; salubrious agent is as menthol and derivant thereof, and softening agent is as cupu oil, and freshener is as terpane formyl ethamine; reagent to free radical resisting; crease-resistant reagent, essential fatty acid, and composition thereof.

The amount of these various compositions is conventional amounts of using in related field, and is for example 0.01 % by weight to 10 % by weight with respect to composition total weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, according to compositions of the present invention, can comprise the sunscreen that at least one is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate (it is nonvolatile oil).

Certainly, those skilled in the art will carefully select optional supplementary element and/or its amount so that the interpolation of considering can or can detrimentally not affect the favourable character according to compositions of the present invention substantially.

Those skilled in the art can select suitable dosage form and preparation method thereof according to its general knowledge, consider on the one hand the character, particularly their dissolubility in carrier of composition used, consider on the other hand the desired use of said composition.

Can be selected from the ointment (a cast in a dish) in cosmetics lip-stick, lipstick, kermes, dish, bar-shaped foundation cream or solid eye cream product according to compositions of the present invention.

According to a specific embodiments, compositions according to the present invention is lip compositions, particularly the ointment in cosmetics lip-stick, lipstick, kermes or dish.

According to a preferred embodiment, it is the lip product that is selected from lipstick and lip-stick.

Term " between " and " from .... extremely .... " should be defined as comprising end points.

The present invention of the following example example and non-implicit limitations.

Unless indicate separately, otherwise the value in the following example meaned with the percentage by weight with respect to composition total weight (%).

Embodiment 1 to 4: lip composition

Preparation is according to following lip-stick compositions of the present invention.

Phase	Composition	According to compositions 1 of the present invention (% by weight)	According to compositions 2 of the present invention (% by weight)	According to compositions 3 of the present invention (% by weight)	According to compositions 4 of the present invention (% by weight)
						A	Water	49.9	48.15	50.15	58.65
A	Glycerol	4	8	4	8
						A	Ethohexadiol	0.7	0.6	0.6	0.6
A	Tripropylene glycol	9	8	12	8
						A	Sodium citrate [from the two hydration trisodium citrates of MERCK]	0.1	1	1	1
A	EDTA tetra-sodium [from the VERSENE 220 crystal chelating agen of DOW CHEMICAL]	0.2	-	-	-
						A	Phenyl phenol	0.6	-	-	-
A	Sorbitol (from the sorbitol solution USP/FCC 70% of ADM)	-	5	-	2
						A	BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane is (from the DOW CORNING 2501 of DOW CORNING ?Cosmetics wax)	8	-	8	-
B	Sodium stearate [from the STEARATE DE SODIUM VEGETAL 35/65 of FACI]	8	4	6	6
						B	The PEG-150 distearate is (from KESSCO PEG 6000 DS of ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE ?)	2	2	2	2
C	Caprylic/capric triglyceride is (from the MYRITOL 318 of COGNIS ?)	5	10	-	-
						C	Vaseline is (from the ULTIMA WHITE PET USP of PERENCO ?)	3	-	-	-
C	RICINUS COMMUNIS (Semen Ricini) seed oil (from the LIPOVOL CO of LIPO CHEMICALS)	-	-	10	-
						C	Two many acyl groups of diglycerol adipic acid-2 esters (from the Softisan 649 of Sasol)	-	-	-	10
C	Ethylhexyl salicylate [from the 182562 Neo Heliopan OS/BP of Symrise]	5	-	-	-
						C	Parleam (from the PARLEAM of NOF Corporation)	-	5	-	-
C	Isooctadecanol	4	3	2	1.5
						C	Sucrose ethyl ester isobutyl ester (from the SUSTANE SAIB FOOD GRADE KOSHER of Eastman Chemicals)	-	5	-	-
D	Silicon dioxide (from the MSS-500-3 H of KOBO)	-	-	4	2
						E	Menthol [from the 620009 Menthol Laevo Pellets of symrise]	0.25	-	-	-
E	Spice	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25
						?	Amount to	100	100	100	100
?	Hardness (Nm -1)	42.2 N.m -1	84.5 N.m -1	52.4 N.m -1	59.1 N.m -1

Preparation method:

At first the compound of phase A is heated to 60 ℃ and gentle mix (100 rpm): transparency liquid.

Then add the compound of phase B and gentle the mixing until obtain transparent mixture (150 rpm) under 60 ℃: transparency liquid.

Then the compound of phase C is preheated to 60 ℃ and add in this mixture, its subsequently gentle vortex mixed until its evenly (500 rpm 10 minutes).

Then this mixture is cooled to 50 ℃ under gentle agitation, then adds the compound of phase D and E and make this mixture keep stirring until its even (400 rpm).

Finally, pour said composition into mould under 50 ℃ in and be cooled to 40 ℃ to prepare in batches the rods of 11.6 millimeters of diameters under gentle agitation (300 rpm).Pour in mould by batch of material and make it be cooled to room temperature.

Resulting composition 1 to 4 is stablized and is had good excellent hardness (apply Shi Buhui and become broken or cracking on lip).It provides pure and fresh and moisture feeling in comfortable mode on lip, provides simultaneously and easily applies character, especially aspect slipping and easy disintegration.

Claims (19)

1. for skin and/or lip, the preferred Solic cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water emulsion form of the cosmetic of lip and/or nursing, it comprises in the acceptable medium of physiology:

(a) content is being more than or equal to 1 % by weight and being less than or equal to the C of 15 % by weight with respect to composition total weight ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt;

(b) content is the water with respect at least 20 % by weight of composition total weight; With

(c) at least one fatty phase, it comprises oil and/or paste fat compound.

2. according to the compositions of claim 1, it is characterized in that C ₁₆-C ₂₅the content of straight chain acid salt is 1 % by weight to 15 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 4 % by weight to 9 % by weight, even more especially 7.5 % by weight to 8.5 % by weight.

3. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that described C ₁₆-C ₂₅straight chain acid salt is selected from sodium stearate and sodium behenate.

4. according to the compositions of claims 1 to 3 any one, it is characterized in that water content is 20 % by weight to 70 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, particularly 30 % by weight to 60 % by weight, even more special 40 % by weight to 50 % by weight.

5. according to the compositions of claim 1 to 4 any one, it is characterized in that described fat at least comprises the nonvolatile oil that is selected from non-polar oil, polar oil and composition thereof mutually.

6. according to the compositions of claim 1 to 5 any one, the content that it is characterized in that fatty phase is 0.1 % by weight to 75 % by weight, particularly 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, even more special 15 % by weight to 25 % by weight.

7. according to the compositions of claim 1 to 6 any one, it is characterized in that described fat comprises at least one non-polar oil and at least one polar oil mutually.

8. according to the compositions of claim 1 to 7 any one, the content that it is characterized in that polar oil is 0.1 % by weight to 75 % by weight, particularly 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, even more special 15 % by weight to 25 % by weight.

9. according to the compositions of claim 1 to 8 any one, the content that it is characterized in that non-polar oil is 0.1 % by weight to 75 % by weight, particularly 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, even more special 15 % by weight to 25 % by weight.

10. according to the compositions of claim 1 to 9 any one, it is characterized in that described at least one non-polar oil is selected from polybutene, polyisobutylene, Parleam, poly decene, Isoeicosane, squalane and composition thereof, and described at least one polar oil is caprylic/capric triglyceride.

11., according to the compositions of claim 1 to 10 any one, it is characterized in that it comprises wetting agent.

12., according to the compositions of claim 1 to 11 any one, it is characterized in that described wetting agent is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, tripropylene glycol, ethohexadiol and composition thereof.

13., according to the compositions of claim 1 to 12 any one, the content that it is characterized in that wetting agent is 0.1 % by weight to 40 % by weight, particularly 5 % by weight to 25 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, even more special 10 % by weight to 20 % by weight.

14., according to the compositions of claim 1 to 13 any one, it is characterized in that it comprises additional emulsifiers.

15., according to the compositions of claim 1 to 14 any one, it is characterized in that described additional emulsifiers is selected from PEG-150 distearate, two-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, tristerin, PEG-100 stearate, phosphoric acid cetyl potassium salt, isooctadecanol and composition thereof.

16., according to the compositions of claim 1 to 15 any one, the content that it is characterized in that described additional emulsifiers is 1 % by weight to 35 % by weight, particularly 2 % by weight to 25 % by weight with respect to composition total weight, even more special 5 % by weight to 20 % by weight.

17. the compositions according to claim 1 to 16 any one, it is characterized in that described additional emulsifiers is two-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, it is with 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight that is included in respect to composition total weight, 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight particularly, the content of even more special 2 % by weight to 8 % by weight exists.

18., according to the compositions of claim 1 to 17 any one, it is characterized in that it comprises wax.

19. skin and/or lip, preferably cosmetic and/or the care method of lip, be included on skin and/or lip and apply the compositions according to aforementioned claim any one.