BR112013022043B1 - Solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, and method for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care - Google Patents

Abstract

Solid Cosmetic Composition in the Form of Oil-in-Water Emulsion The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care and preferably lips. The composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of C16-C25 linear fatty acid salts, at least 20% by weight of water and at least one grease phase comprising oily and / or pasty fatty compounds in a physiologically acceptable medium. .

Description

(54) Title: SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION FOR MAKEUP AND / OR SKIN CARE AND / OR LIPS, AND METHOD FOR MAKEUP AND / OR SKIN CARE AND / OR LIPS (51) Int. CI .: C11D 1/04; A61K 8/06; A61K 8/02; A61K 8/36; A61Q 1/02; A61Q 1/06 (52) CPC: C11D 1/04, A61K 8/062, A61K 8/0229, A61K 8/361, A61Q 1/02, A61Q 1/06 (73) Holder (s): LOREAL (72) Inventor (s): ZHEN XU; CÉLINE KONGMANY; CAROLINE DELAUNAY

1/42

Descriptive Report of the Invention Patent for SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF EMULSION OF OIL IN WATER FOR MAKEUP AND / OR SKIN CARE AND / OR LIPS, AND METHOD FOR MAKEUP AND / OR SKIN CARE AND / OR LIPS.

[001] The present invention relates to the field of care with and / or makeup of keratinous material and more particularly the lips.

[002] The development of formulations dedicated to makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, having satisfactory properties in terms of application, comfort, maintenance and coverage and also in terms of makeup effect, such as, for example, shine, is a permanent goal.

[003] Regarding lips, the lipstick, which appeared at the beginning of the last century, has now established itself and is recognized by users as the predominant application method for lip makeup. This application method offers users a means of choice, in terms of lip coverage and color diversity.

[004] Naturally, this form of formulation must, moreover, satisfy the requirements, on the one hand, of a mechanical order, in order to ensure the sliding and maintenance of the stick during the application and to prevent it from breaking and, on the other hand hand, of transfer qualities, in order to guarantee comfortable application and a satisfactory deposited layer of good quality on the lips.

[005] The present invention more particularly focuses on a lip composition comprising water in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[006] There is a need for improved performance of a cosmetic product as a solid mass, comprising water in an amount greater than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight

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2/42 of the composition, in terms of freshness, wetting and comfort when applying the composition.

[007] In addition, there is a need for said composition to fulfill all said requirements while at the same time being stable.

[008] The inventors, surprisingly, found that it is possible to make such compositions with the proviso that a particular anionic surfactant, i.e., C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt and more particularly sodium stearate, is combined with a minimum amount of 20% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and at least one grease phase comprising oily and / or pasty fatty compounds.

[009] Thus, according to a first aspect, an object of the present invention is the solid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, preferably the lips. , comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(a) C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt, preferably a sodium salt, such as sodium stearate and sodium behenate, with a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight and less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition;

(b) water in a content of at least 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) at least one grease phase, comprising oily and / or pasty fatty compounds.

[0010] Surprisingly, it was revealed that the resulting composition, even with the presence of water, is stable, can have good stick hardness, provides freshness, moisturizes on the skin and / or lips in a comfortable way, and is easily deposited on the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips.

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3/42 [0011] Furthermore, said composition has improved performance in terms of sensory level, healing effect, and / or the result of makeup, while giving easy application properties, especially in terms of the quality of what is slippery and ease of disintegration, but also pleasant for consumers. [0012] In another aspect, an object of the present invention is a method for makeup and / or care for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, comprising application on the skin and / or lips of the composition according to with the present invention.

HARDNESS [0013] The composition according to the invention is solid.

[0014] The term solid characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). [0015] In particular, the term solid composition is understood to mean a composition having a hardness greater than 30 Nm ^-1 .

Protocol for measuring the hardness [0016] The measurement is carried out according to the following protocol: [0017] The lipstick stick is stored at 20 ° C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0018] The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C using the cheesewire method, which consists of the cross section of a product stick, preferably a cylindrical stick generated by rotation, using a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 pm , the wire being moved in relation to the rod at a rate of 100 mm / min.

[0019] The hardness of the samples of the compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm ^-1 , is measured using a DFGS2 strength measure sold by Indelco-Chatillon.

[0020] The measurement is repeated three times and then the average is calculated. The average of the three values read using the menPetition force meter 870170059977, from 08/18/2017, p. 11/58

4/42 mentioned above, meant Y, is given in grams. This medium is converted into newtons and then divided by L, which represents the largest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0021] The hardness is converted to Nm ^-1 by the following equation:

(Y x 10 ^-3 x 9.8) / L [0022] For a measurement at a different temperature, the rod is stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement. [0023] According to this method, the hardness at 20 ° C of the examples with a composition according to an aspect of the invention is greater than 30 Nm ^-1 , preferably greater than 35 Nm ^-1 .

[0024] According to this method, the hardness at 20 ° C of the examples with a composition according to an aspect of the invention is less than 150 Nm ^-1 , in particular less than 100 Nm ^-1 , preferably less than 80 Nm ^-1 .

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a hardness of between 30 and 150 Nm ^-1 , or even from 30 to 100 Nm ^-1 . [0026] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a hardness of between 30 and 80 Nm ^-1

LINEAR FATTY ACID SALT OF C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ [0027] The composition according to the present invention comprises a salt of a linear fatty acid having 16 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably a sodium salt, such as sodium stearate. sodium and sodium behenate.

[0028] Said C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt is present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight and less than or equal to 15% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt plays an essential role in the hardness of the solid composition.

[0030] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition

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5/42 according to the present invention comprises from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 4% to 9% by weight of C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt in relation to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition contains from 6% to 8.5% by weight and more preferably from

7.5% to 8.5% of C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises from 4% to 15% by weight, in particular from 4% to 9% by weight of C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt. in relation to the total weight of the composition. This first embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0032] Preferably, the composition contains from 6% to 8.5% by weight of C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt relative to the total weight of the composition. This first embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0033] According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 6% by weight of C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt. in relation to the total weight of the composition. This second embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has 22 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0034] Preferably, the composition contains from 2% to 5% by weight of C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt in relation to the total weight of the composition. This second embodiment is preferred when the linear fatty acid salt has 22 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0035] The C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt is preferably chosen from sodium stearate and sodium behenate.

[0036] Sodium stearate, also called sodium octadecanoate, is the sodium salt of stearic acid, that is, a metallic salt of

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6/42 fatty acid, called soap.

[0037] Sodium behenate is the sodium salt of behenic acid; [0038] In a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises between 7.5% and 8.5% by weight of sodium stearate in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase [0039] The composition according to the invention also comprises water in a content of at least 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Water can moisturize and / or moisten the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips after application.

[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to 70% by weight, in particular from 30% to 60% by weight and even more particularly from 40% to 50% by weight of water with respect to total weight of the composition.

[0042] The composition of the invention may comprise in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent.

[0043] The aqueous phase can form the continuous phase of the composition. [0044] Continuous aqueous phase composition, as used here, means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 23 pS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a Mettler Toledo MPC227 conductivity meter and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in order to eliminate air bubbles that can be formed between the cell electrodes. The conductivity reading is taken when the conductivity value is stabilized. An average is performed over at least 3 successive measurements.

[0045] Water-soluble solvent, as used here, means a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible in water (miscibiPetição 870170059977, from 18/08/2017, p. 14/58

7/42 in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

[0046] Water-soluble solvents used in the compositions of the invention can also be volatile.

[0047] The water-soluble solvent that can be used in the compositions of the invention can be chosen from:

- lower monohydric alcohol including 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol,

- polyhydric alcohols including from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably having at least 2 hydroxyl groups, such as glycerol or its derivatives, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diglycerin , sorbitol and mixtures thereof;

- C ₃ and C ₄ ketones, and

- C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes can be mentioned,

- and its mixture.

[0048] Preferably, the water-soluble solvent, and more particularly polyhydric alcohol, is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight , preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Preferably, the aqueous phase (water and optionally water-miscible solvent) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 25% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40 to 75% by weight, preferably from 55 to 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Grease phase [0050] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one grease phase. Said grease phase preferably comprises oily and / or pasty fatty compounds.

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[0051] Preferably, said grease phase comprises at least one aqueous grease phase comprising at least one oil, preferably at least one non-volatile oil.

[0052] The term oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0053] The term non-volatile oil means an oil that remains in keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure below 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm ² .

[0054] These oils can be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0055] Preferably, said oil is chosen from hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated oils.

[0056] The term hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially of, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally O and N atoms, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. Such an oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0057] The term silicone oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially containing Si-O groups. [0058] The term fluorinated oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom, [0059] Preferably, said at least one non-volatile oil is selected from nonpolar oil, polar oil and mixtures thereof.

Oil supports based on hydrocarbon [0060] According to a first embodiment, the oil is present 870170059977, of 18/08/2017, p. 16/58

9/42 te in the composition according to the invention is a non-polar oil based on hydrocarbon.

[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, the term nonpolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, õ _a , is equal to 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

[0062] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: The three dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this space by Hansen:

- ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from dipolar formation induced during molecular impacts;

- ô _p characterizes Debye's interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also Keesom's interaction forces between induced and permanent dipoles;

- ô _h characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); and

- ô _a is determined by the equation: ô _a = (ô _p ² + ô _h ² ) ^{1 /} .

[0063] The parameters ô _p , ô _h , ôD and ô _a are expressed in (J / cm ³ ) ^{1 /} [0064] The term apolar oil based on hydrocarbon means an oil formed essentially of, or even consisting of, atoms carbon and hydrogen, and free of hetero atoms such as N, O, Si and P.

[0065] Examples of non-volatile non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based oils, for example squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and naphthalene oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene or partially hydrogenated, isoeicosane, squalane, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, and polishedPetition 870170059977, of 18/08/2017, p. 17/58

10/42 in such as Puresyn 10, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] In particular, mention may be made of non-volatile backing oils based on high molecular weight hydrocarbons, for example, between 650 and 10,000 g / mol, for example:

- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or PM = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (PM = 1340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (PM = 2160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Panalano H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (PM = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by Synteal (PM = 6000 g / mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the Witco company (PM = 1000 g / mol),

- hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes such as Puresyn 150 (MM = 9200 g / mol) sold by Mobil Chemicals, and

- mixtures thereof.

[0067] According to a second embodiment, said non-polar hydrocarbon oil can be a volatile oil.

[0068] The term volatile oil means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapor pressure, room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (from 10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (from 0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (from 0 , 1 to 10 mmHg). [0069] The said non-polar volatile oil preferably has a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 55 ° C and preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 50 ° C (flash point I in

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11/42 measured according to ISO 3679).

[0070] Volatile oils based on non-polar hydrocarbons that may be mentioned include volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, especially C8-C16 alkanes branched compounds such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isoexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the trademarks Isopar or Permethyl, C ₈ C ₁₆ linear alkanes such as n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 and their mixture, the mixture of undecanotridecane, the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application WO 2008/155059, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to one embodiment, non-volatile non-volatile oils that are suitable for use in the invention can be chosen from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, isoeicosane and / or squalane, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] According to one embodiment, the nonpolar volatile oils that are suitable for use in the invention can be chosen from isododecane and isoexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] In a composition according to the invention, said nonpolar oil, preferably non-volatile, can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from 1% to 30% in weight and more particularly from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oils or comprises less than 10% or even less than 5% non-volatile oil. [0075] According to a second embodiment, said oil is

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12/42 selected from nonpolar oil, polar oil and mixtures thereof, and is preferably non-volatile.

Polar oils [0076] According to a second embodiment, the oil present in the composition according to the invention is a polar oil, chosen from hydrocarbon based oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the term polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, õ _a , is other than 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

[0078] These additional oils can be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0079] The term polar oil based on hydrocarbon means an oil formed essentially of, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any fluorine or silicon atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0080] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar oil can be a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0081] In particular, non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;

- hydrocarbon based esters of the formula RCOOR 'where RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isoPetition 870170059977, of 08/18/2017, p. 20/58

13/42 isononyl nonanoate, oleyl erucate or neopentanoate of 2octyldodecyl;

- sucrose hydrocarbon based esters and a C ₂ -C ₆ carboxylic acid, particularly chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid and isobutyric acid with sucrose, and preferably di-acetate-hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate) sucrose ), such as the product sold under the trademark Sustano SAIB kosher grade food by the company EASTMAN CHEMICAL (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate);

- polyesters obtained by condensation of a dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention can be made especially in this aspect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the trademark Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol),

- fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example oleic acid,

- dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being the same or different, such as Dicaprilil Carbonate sold under the trademark Cetiol CC® by Cognis, and

- high molecular weight non-volatile oils, for example 870170059977, of 08/18/2017, p. 21/58

14/42

EP-A-0 955 039, and (PM = 1033.76 g / mol), of triple isoarachidyl pentaerythrityl, between 650 and 10,000 g / mol, for example:

i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by ISP (PM = 7300 g / mol), ii) esters, such as:

a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for example, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (PM = 697.05 g / mol),

b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisoestearate (PM = 965.58 g / mol),

c) aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g / mol),

d) esters of C24-C28 fatty alcohols or branched fatty acids, such as those described in the patent application especially tetraisononanoate citrate (PM = 697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisoestearate (PM = 891.51 g / mol), tetradecanoate glyceryl tris (2-decyl) (PM = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisoestearate (PM = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisoestearate (PM = 1232.04 g / mol) or tetrakis tetradecanoate (2-decile) of pentaerythrityl (MW = 1538.66 g / mol),

(e) esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and a monocarboxylic acid or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and a dimer of dicarboxylic acid,

f) hydrocarbonated oils from plant origin, particularly fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), preferably fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms such as hetanic acid triglyceride or octanoic acid triglyceride or jojoba oil , in particular, mention may be made 870170059977, of 08/18/2017, p. 22/58

15/42 ta of:

- saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl trieptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, and fatty acid C _18-36 triglycerides (such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois); and

- unsaturated triglycerides such as castor castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil and pracaxi oil;

- and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The esters of a diol dimer of a monocarboxylic acid can be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear, branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0083] As illustrative examples of monocarboxylic acids that are suitable for use in the invention, mention can be made especially of fatty acids.

[0084] The esters of diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid can be obtained from a dimer of dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially from C ₈ to C ₃₄ , especially C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , in particularly C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ and more particularly C ₁₈ .

[0085] According to a particular variant, it is more particularly the dimer of dicarboxylic acid from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived.

[0086] The esters of a diol dimer and a carboxylic acid can be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described above, for example, hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid.

[0087] As illustrations of esters of diol dimer, mention can be made especially of esters of dilinoleic diacids and diPetition 870170059977, of 08/18/2017, p. 23/58

16/42 ro diol dilinoleyl sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trademarks Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0088] According to a third embodiment, the polar oil can be a non-volatile silicon oil.

[0089] In particular, silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicone oils.

[0090] Such an oil is also called a phenyl silicone. The term phenyl silicone means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.

[0091] Preferably, the silicon oil charge is non-volatile, and is preferably chosen from:

- phenylated silicones (also known as phenylated silicone oil), such as Wacker Belsil PDM 1000 (PM = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trademark DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicone, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxanes, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, such as DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID sold by Dow Corning);

- non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), or polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkoxy or pendant alkyl groups and / or alkyl or alkoxy groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each have 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0092] According to a third embodiment, the polar oil can be a fluorinated non-volatile oil. Said oils are optionally partially based on hydrocarbon and / or based on silicone. [0093] According to a second embodiment, the polar oil can be a volatile oil.

[0094] In particular, polar volatile oil can be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

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17/42

- ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone;

- short-chain esters, especially containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;

ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether;

- alcohols and especially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

[0095] It is also possible to use volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] According to one embodiment, additional polar oils which are suitable for use in the invention can be chosen from PPG-3 myristyl ether dimerdilinoleate / octyldodecyl, fatty acid triglycerides, plant oils, octyldodecanol, malate diisostearyl, phenyl silicones and vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] In a composition according to the invention, said polar oil, preferably non-volatile, can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from 1% to 30% in weight and more particularly from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oils or comprises less than 10% or even less than 5% of polar volatile oil. [0099] Preferably, the composition of the invention is free of volatile oil.

[00100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention

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18/42 comprises from 0.1% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight and even more particularly from 15% to 25% by weight of the grease phase, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[00101] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight and even more particularly from 15% to 25% by weight of at least a polar oil, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[00102] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight and even more particularly from 15% to 25% by weight of at least an apolar oil, in relation to the total weight of the composition. [00103] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polar oil, preferably a polar oil, preferably chosen from C7-40 fatty acid triglycerides (liquids at room temperature), in particular triglyceride caprylic / capric.

[00104] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least hexyl ethyl salicylate as a polar oil. Said ethyl hexyl salicylate is also useful in the composition as a sunscreen.

[00105] In another embodiment, the composition can comprise at least one nonpolar oil, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[00106] According to a preferred embodiment, less than 50% by weight of all the oil (s) present in the composition are silicone oil (s).

[00107] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of silicone oil.

Solid grease substances [00108] The grease phase of the composition according to the invention poPetição 870170059977, from 08/18/2017, p. 26/58

19/42 also comprise at least one pasty fatty compound, preferably hydrocarbon.

Pasty fatty compounds [00109] The term pasty fatty compounds (also known as pasty fatty substances) within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change in the state that exhibits, in the solid state, a crystalline anisotropic arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[00110] In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C, can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. At 23 ° C, that liquid fraction preferably represents between 15 to 85% by weight, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[00111] Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of most of the thermal analysis observed by the endothermic peak (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the trademark MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

[00112] A 5 mg sample of pasty substance or wax (according to the circumstances) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, it is then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and, finally, it is subjected to a second rise in temperature which will vary from 8/18 to 5/17. / 2017, p. 27/58

20/42 range from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the change in the difference in energy absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible comprising the paste or wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value that corresponds to the peak end of the curve that represents the change in the difference in absorbed energy as a function of temperature.

[00113] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ° C to the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound.

[00114] The enthalpy of melting of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from a solid to a liquid state. The pasty compound is in the solid state when its total mass is in the solid crystalline form. The pasty compound is in a liquid state when its total mass is in liquid form. [00115] The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as a calorimeter sold under the trademark MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with the elevation in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to Standard ISO 1135 7-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy needed to change the compound from a solid state to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[00116] The melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it exhibits at 23 ° C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[00117] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 870170059977, from 08/18/2017, p. 28/58

21/42 50 to 100% by weight of the compound, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

[00118] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 32 ° C to the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound. The melting enthalpy consumed at 32 ° C is calculated in the same way as the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ° C.

[00119] The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesizing starting compounds of plant origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and its derivatives,

- petrolatum, particularly marketed under the trademark ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco,

- polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and a sugar, and mixtures thereof. pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl ether), and their mixtures and more particularly PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl ether PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl ether and soy oil mixture sold under the trademark Lanolide by Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents occur in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl ether and 8% soy oil.

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 29/58

22/42

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular:

· Olefin homopolymers and copolymers, · hydrogenated diene copolymers and homopolymers, · linear or branched linear or branched alkyl (meth) acrylates and homo-polymers preferably having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, · homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, · homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C ₂ -C ₁₀₀ diols, preferably C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols,

- esters,

- and / or mixtures thereof.

[00120] The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

[00121] Preference is given, among fat-soluble polyethers, in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C ₆ -C ₃₀ long chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such as the weight ratio from ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. Particular mention will be made, in that family, of copolymers such that long chain alkylene oxides are positioned in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example, a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol, such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under Elfacos ST9 brand by Akzo Nobel.

[00122] Preference is given, among esters, in particular to:

- esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, especially condensates of adipic acid, and

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 30/58

23/42 glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12 stearic hydroxy acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate- 2 in particular, as sold under the Softisan 649 brand by Sasol,

- arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 brand by Alzo,

- phytosterol esters,

- fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,

- pentaerythritol esters,

- non-cross-linked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C ₂ -C ₅₀ diol or polyol,

- aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, hetanic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexildecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henesicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid and mixtures thereof.

[00123] The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester advantageously results from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 31/58

24/42 even better from 12 to 28 carbon atoms and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and even better from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen from:

a) partial or complete esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

b) partial or complete esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

c) partial or complete esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

d) partial or complete esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

e) partial or complete esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols which reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

- esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate esterified in its free alcohol or functional group (s) of acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer esters of dilinoleate; such esters can be chosen, in particular, from esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleate dimer (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dilinoleate dimer (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY / IS-DA), phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate dimer (Plandool H or Planool S), and mixtures thereof.

- hydrogenated rosinate esters, such as hydrogenated dilinoleyl rosinate dimer (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical)

- and their mixtures.

[00124] Advantageously, the pasty fatty compound is preferably petition 870170059977, of 08/18/2017, p. 32/58

25/42 hydrocarbonated compound and compound, preferably chosen from petrolatum, and / or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.

[00125] Advantageously, the pasty compound (s) preferably represents 0.1 to 80% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 60% by weight, even better from 1 to 30% by weight and even better still from 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[00126] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil (s) and / or fatty fatty compounds are hydrocarbonated, or less than 50% of these are siliconised.

[00127] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of pasty silicone compounds.

Wax (s) [00128] According to the particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax. [00129] According to a preferred embodiment the composition according to the invention comprises no hydrocarbonated wax.

[00130] According to a preferred embodiment the composition according to the invention comprises no wax, and particularly no wax that exhibits a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C.

[00131] The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25 ° C), which exhibits a change in reversible solid / liquid state and which has a melting point of greater than than or equal to 30 ° C which can vary up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.

[00132] In particular, waxes in general exhibit a melting point of greater than or equal to 45 ° C and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

[00133] Reference can in particular be made, by way of illustrationPetition 870170059977, of 08/18/2017, p. 33/58

26/42 waxes that are suitable for the invention, hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax , esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montana wax, orange or lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also their esters.

[00134] Reference can also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C ₈ -C ₃₂ linear or branched fatty chains. Reference can in particular be made, among these, of isomerized jojoba oil, such as partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, castor oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and di (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra stearate, sold under the trademark of Hest 2T-4S ^® by Heterene.

Additional emulsifiers [00135] The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one additional emulsifier, different from the C16C25 linear fatty acid salt.

[00136] According to the invention, an additional emulsifier suitably chosen to obtain a wax-in-water or oil-in-water emulsion is generally used. In particular, an additional emulsifier having at 25 ° C an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the Griffin sense, greater than or equal to 8 can be used.

[00137] The value of HLB according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc.

Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), p. 249-256.

[00138] These additional emulsifiers can be chosen from

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 34/58

27/42 nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants or polymeric surfactants. Reference can be made to the document Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, volume 22, pgs. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsification) functions of surfactants, in particular pages. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.

[00139] The additional surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from:

a) non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 to 25 ° C, used alone or as a mixture; mention can be made especially of:

- saccharide ethers or esters such as a mixture of cetylstearyl glycoside and ethyl and stearyl alcohols, for example, Montanov 68 from SEPPIC;

- oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;

- oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohol), such as oxyethylene cetearyl ether containing 30 groups oxyethylene (name CTFA Ceteareth-30), oxyethylene stearyl alcohol ether containing 20 oxyethylene groups (name CTFA Steareth-20) and the oxyethylene ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (name CTFA C12-15 Pareth-7 ) sold under the trademark Neodol 25-7 ^® by Shell Chemicals;

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the registered trademark Myrj

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 35/58

28/42

52P® by ICI Uniqema, or PEG-30 glyceryl stearate sold privately under the trademark Tagat S® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or else PEG-150 distearate sold privately under the trademark KESSCO PEG 6000 DS by the company ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE;

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ and preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ acid) of glyceryl ethers oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), for example example, PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the trademark Simulsol 220 TM ^® by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for example, the product Tagat S® sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with ethylene oxide groups, for example, the product Tagat O ^® sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for example, the product Varionic LI 13 ^® sold by the Sherex company, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for example, the product Tagat L ^® sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for example, the product Tagat ^® from the company Evonik Goldschmidt;

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene sorbital ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), for example, polysorbate 20 sold under the trademark Tween 20 ^® by the company Croda, and polysorbate 60 sold under the trademark Tween 60 ^® by the company Croda;

- ethoxylated dimethylsilane methyl ether, preferably containing an average of 36 moles of ethylene oxide, as a product sold under the trademark Dow Corning cosmetic wax 2501

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 36/58

29/42 by DOW CORNING, bearing the name INCI Dimethyl silane of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether;

- dimethicone copolyol, as a product sold under the trademark Q2-5220® by the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® by Finetex company);

- copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also known as EO / PO polycondensates;

and mixtures thereof.

[00140] EO / PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers that consist of polycondensates by polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol triblocks, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol. These polycondensates by triblocks have, for example, the following chemical structure:

H- (O-CH2-CH2) a- (O-CH (CH3) -CH2) b- (O-CH2-CH2) a-OH, in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to 100.

[00141] The EO / PO polycondensate preferably has an average molecular weight per weight that ranges from 1000 to 15 000 and even better that it ranges from 2000 to 13 000. Advantageously, said polycondensate EO / PO has a fog point , at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C and preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The fog point is measured according to ISO standard 1065. Like the EO / PO polycondensates that can be used according to the invention, mention can be made of the polycondensates by polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblocks sold in particular under the trademark Synperonic ^® , for example, Synperonic PE / L44® and Synperonic PE / F127®, by the company ICI.

[00142] b) non-ionic surfactants with an HLB below 8 to 25 ° C, optionally combined with one or more non-ionic surfactants with an HLB above 8 to 25 ° C, such as those referenced

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 37/58

30/42 above; mention can be made especially of:

- saccharide ethers or esters, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, for example, Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI;

- oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially C ₈ -C ₂₄ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alcohols) such as alcohol oxyethylene ether stearyl containing two oxyethylene groups (name CTFA Steareth-2);

- fatty acid esters (especially of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ and preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ acid) of polyols, especially glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate, as a product sold under the trademark Tegin M® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate, as well as a product sold under the trademark Imwitor 312® by the company Hüls, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate or glyceryl ricinoleate;

- lecithins, such as soy lecithins (for example, Emulmetik 100 J by Cargill, or Biophilic H by Lucas Meyer);

- the cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture sold under the trademark Q2-3225C ^® by the company Dow Corning,

c) anionic surfactants, such as:

- salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, especially those derived from amines, for example, triethanolamine stearate and / or 2 amino-2- methyl-1,3- propanediol stearate. Triethanolamine stearate is generally obtained by simply mixing stearic acid and triethanolamine;

- polyoxyethylene fatty acid salts, especially those derived from amines or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof;

- phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as DEA

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 38/58

31/42 oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N 10N from Croda company) or monopotassium monocetyl phosphate or potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);

- sulfosuccinates such as disodium PEG-5 lauryl sulfosuccinate citrate and disodium MEA ricinoleamide sulfosuccinate;

- alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;

- isethionates;

- acylglutamates such as disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate (Amisoft HS-21 R ^® sold by Ajinomoto company) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-11 PF ^® sold by Ajinomoto company), and mixtures thereof;

- soy derivatives, for example, potassium soate;

- citrates, for example, glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);

- proline derivatives, for example, sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from SEPPIC) or the mixture of sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoyl proline (SEPPIC Sepifeel One);

- lactylates, for example, sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);

- sarcosinates, for example, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of 75/25 stearoyl sarcosine and myristoyl sarcosine (Crodasin SM from Croda);

- sulfonates, for example, C ₁₄ -C ₁₇ alkyl sec sodium sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant);

- glycinates, for example, sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto).

[00143] The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional amphoteric surfactants, for example,

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 39/58

32/42 N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for example, dimethicone copolyol phosphates, as a product sold under the trademark Pecosil PS 100® by the Phoenix Chemical company.

[00144] The additional emulsifier that can be used can also be a polymeric surfactant, especially a heat-induced gel-forming polymer.

[00145] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the additional emulsifier is chosen from PEG-150 distearate sold under the trademark of Kessco PEG 6000 DS® from ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE, ethoxylated dimethylsilane methyl ether, (as sold product under the trademark Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax by DOW CORNING, bearing the name INCI BIS-dimethyl silane of PEG-18 methyl ether), isostearyl alcohol (for example, sold under the trademark Prisorine 3515-LQ- (GD) from CRODA), Glyceryl stearate (e) PEG-100 Stearate (for example, as a product sold under the CRODA ARLACEL 165 trademark); POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE (for example, as a product sold under the trademark AMPHISOL K of DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) and mixtures thereof.

[00146] The composition according to the invention can contain from 1% to 35% by weight, even better from 2% to 25% by weight and even better still from 5% to 20% by weight of the emulsifier (s) ) additional (s) total in relation to the total weight of said composition.

[00147] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises ethoxylated dimethylsilane methyl ether, (such as product sold under the trademark Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax by DOW CORNING, having the name INCI dimethyl silane of methyl ether of BIS-PEG-18).

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 40/58

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and even more particularly from 2% to 8% by weight of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Wetting agents [00149] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one wetting agent.

[00150] Preferably, the wetting agent is chosen from sorbitol and polyhydric alcohols, preferably from C2-C10.

[00151] Preferably, the wetting agent is chosen from polyhydric alcohols, preferably from C3-C9, such as preferably glycerol or its derivatives, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, tripropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof.

[00152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wetting agent chosen from glycerin and / or caprylyl glycol and / or tripropylene glycol.

[00153] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 5% to 25% by weight of wetting agent, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[00154] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 20% by weight of the wetting agent, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Additional wetting agents [00155] The composition according to the invention can also comprise additional wetting agents.

[00156] Preferably, additional wetting agents are

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 41/58

34/42 chosen between urea and its derivatives such as Hydrovance® (2hydroxyethyl urea) sold by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids), serine, collagen, plankton, derivatives of C-glycosides such as those disclosed in WO 02/051828 and in particular Cp-Dxylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution comprising 30% by weight of active material in a mixture of water / propylene glycol (60/40 % by weight) such as Mexoril SBB® sold by Chimex.

[00157] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, of additional wetting agents, preferably hydrophilic wetting agents, in relation to the total weight of the composition. [00158] In another aspect, an object of the present invention is a method of caring for the skin and / or lips, and preferably the lips, comprising application on the skin and / or lips of the composition according to the present invention.

[00159] As the composition according to the invention comprises water, it is particularly advantageous in including hydrophilic wetting agents in the composition, since the stability problems that can classically be encountered are avoided. It is of particular interest for lip care products, as solid or liquid lip products are generally anhydrous, or when they contain water they are generally not stable, which means that it can exude or separate at different stages.

SEQUESTING AGENTS [00160] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a sequestering agent such as EDTA tetrasodium and sodium citrate.

[00161] Preferably, the composition according to the invention

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 42/58

35/42 comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 5% by weight and even more particularly from 0.01% to 2% by weight of sequestering agent, in relation to weight total composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium [00162] The term physiologically acceptable medium is understood to mean a medium compatible with keratinous substances, and more particularly the skin and / or lips, more preferably the lips, such as oils or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

[00163] The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more physiologically acceptable organic solvents (acceptable tolerance, acceptable toxicology and acceptable feel).

Coloring material [00164] The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a coloring material chosen from water-soluble dyes and powdery coloring materials, such as pigments, pearlescent agents and glitter, well known to a person skilled in the art. The coloring materials can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight.

[00165] The term pigments would be understood as meaning white or colored and inorganic or organic particles in any way that are insoluble in the physiological environment and that are intended to color the composition.

[00166] The term pearly agents would be understood as meaning iridescent particles in any way that are in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shells or else synthesized.

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 43/58

36/42 [00167] Pigments can be white or colored and inorganic or organic. Mention can be made, among inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally treated on the surface of cerium or zirconium oxides, as well as zinc, chrome or iron oxides (black, yellow or red), violet manganose, ultramarine blue, hydrate chrome, ferric blue and metal powders, such as aluminum or copper powder.

[00168] Mention may be made, between organic pigments, carbon black, D & C type pigments and lacquers, based on cochineal carmine, barium strontium, calcium or aluminum.

[00169] Reference may also be made of effect pigments, such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic and natural or synthetic substrate, for example, glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminum, said substrate being or not being covered with metal substances, such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or with metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[00170] Pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide coated mica covered with iron oxides, mica coated with oxide titanium coated with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide or mica coated with titanium oxide covered with an organic pigment of the type mentioned above and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Use can also be made of interference pigments, in particular multilayer or liquid crystal pigments.

[00171] Water-soluble pigments are, for example, beet root juice or methylene blue.

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 44/58

[00172] According to the particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight of iron oxide and / or carbon black, with respect to the weight of the composition, preferably less than than 0.1% by weight. Advantageously, the composition is free of iron oxide and free of carbon black. In that embodiment, the composition is preferably a lip product such as a lipstick.

[00173] According to the particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains no coloring agent. This embodiment is particularly convenient when the composition is a lip balm.

Filling materials [00174] The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more filling materials, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, from preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. The term filler materials would be understood to mean colorless or white and inorganic or synthetic particles in any way that are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

[00175] The filling materials can be inorganic or organic and in any form, platelet, spherical or rectangular, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, leaf, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic and the like). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders formed from polyamide (Nylon ^® ) (Orgasol ^® from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, powders formed from tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon ^® ), lauroillisine , starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of poly (chloride

Petition 870170059977, of 8/18/2017, p. 45/58

38/42 vinylidene) / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic acid copolymers (Politrap® from Dow Corning), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres hollow (Silica Beads ^® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, stearate magnesium, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.

Additives [00176] A composition according to the invention can further comprise any ingredient conventionally used as additives in cosmetics and dermatology.

[00177] These additives are advantageously chosen among antioxidants, thickeners, sweeteners such as sodium saccharin, fragrances, flavors, preservatives, neutralizing agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic principles, and their mixtures, and can be advantageously chosen from those proposed in table 1 of Codex Alimentarius. [00178] In particular, according to the invention, cosmetic active ingredients that can be used include sunscreens, vitamins such as vitamins A, E, C and B3, pro-vitamins such as Dpantenol, soothing ingredients such as a-bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts or essential oils, protective or restructuring agents, such as ceramides, cooling agents such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients such as cocoa butter, toning agents such as ethyl menthane carboxamide, combatants free radicals, anti-wrinkle agents, essential fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[00179] The quantities of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the areas mentioned and, for example, vary

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39/42 from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [00180] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sunscreen selected from ethylexyl salicylate, which is a non-volatile oil. [00181] Naturally, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantities so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the considered addition.

[00182] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate formulation form and method of preparation on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and, on the other hand, the application considered for the composition. [00183] A composition according to the invention can be chosen from cosmetic lip balm, lipstick, rouge, cast on a dish, a base in the shape of a stick, or a product in cream for solid eye.

[00184] According to the particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a lip composition, in particular a cosmetic lip balm, a lipstick, a rouge, or a cast in a dish.

[00185] According to a preferred embodiment, it is a lip product chosen from lipstick and lip balm.

[00186] The terms between ... and or of ... a will be defined exclusively.

[00187] The examples that follow illustrate the invention without limitation.

[00188] Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the example below are expressed as a percentage (%) by weight in repetition 870170059977, from 08/18/2017, p. 47/58

40/42 to the total weight of the composition.

Examples 1 to 4: Lipstick composition [00189] The following lip balm compositions according to the invention were prepared.

Phase Ingredients Composition 1 of according to invention (% by weight) Composition 2 according with the invention (% in Weight) Composition 3 according with the invention (% in Weight) Composition 4 according the invention (% by weight) THE Water 49.9 48.15 50.15 58.65 THE Glycerin 4 8 4 8 THE Caprilyl glycol 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.6 THE tripropylene glycol 9 8 12 8 THE [TRI-SODIUM citrate CITRATE dihydrate MERCK trisode] of sodium 0.1 1 1 1 THE Tetrasodium EDTA [crystal chelating agent DOW VERSENE 220 CHEMICAL] 0.2 THE phenoxyethanol 0.6 - - - THE sorbitol (sorbitol solution USP / FCC 70% ADM) 5 2 THE ether dimethyl silane methyl of BIS-PEG-18 (DOW CORNING 2501® COSMETIC WAX from DOW CORNING) 8 8 B sodium stearate [vegetable stearate sodium 35/65 of FACI] 8 4 6 6

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41/42

B PEG-150 disesterate (KESSCO PEG 6000 DS® ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE) 2 2 2 2 Ç caprylic / capric triglyceride (MYRITOL 318® from COGNIS) 5 10 Ç petrolatum (ULTIMA WHITE PETUSP® by PERENCO) 3 Ç (castor) seed oil from COMMUNIS (LIPOVOLCO LIPO CHEMICALS) 10 Ç bis-polyacyladipate-2 diglecerila (Softisan 649 da Sasol) 10 Ç ethylexyl salicylate [182562 Neo Heliopan Symrise OS / BP] 5 Ç Hydrogenated polyisobutene (PARLEAM of NOF Corporation) 5 Ç isostearyl alcohol 4 3 2 1.5 Ç acetate isobutyrate sucrose (SUSTANO SAIB food grade KOSHER Eastman Chemicals) 5 D silica (MSS-500-3 H from KOBO) 4 2 AND menthol [620009 pellets Laevo menthol from symrise] 0.25 AND fragrance 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 total 100 100 100 100 Hardness (Nm ' ¹ ) 42.2 N.m ' ¹ 84.5 N.m-1 52.4 N.m-1 59.1 N.m-1

Preparation process:

[00190] Phase A compounds are first heated to

60Ό and light mixing (100 rpm): Transparent liquid.

[00191] Then, the compounds of phase B are added and mixed lightly at 60Ό until a transparent mixture is obtained 870170059977, from 08/18/2017, p. 49/58

42/42 da (150 rpm): Clear liquid.

[00192] Then, the compounds of phase C are preheated 60 ° C and are added to the mixture which is then mixed with a light swirl until it becomes homogeneous (500 rpm 10 minutes). [00193] The mixture is then cooled to 50 ° C with free stirring and then the compounds of phases D and E are added and the mixture is kept under stirring until it becomes homogeneous (400 rpm). [00194] Finally, the composition is poured to be molded at 50 ° C or cooled to 40 ° C with slight agitation (300 r pm) for the preparation of batter with a diameter of 11.6 mm. The dough is poured into a mold and allowed to cool to room temperature.

[00195] The resulting compositions 1 to 4 are stable and have good stick hardness (do not become shattered or broken when applied to the lips). It provides freshness and moisturizing on the lips in a comfortable way, while giving easy application properties, especially in terms of the quality of what is slippery and ease of disintegration.

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1/4

Claims (17)

1. Solid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, and preferably the lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt with a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight and less than or equal to 15% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition; (b) water in a content of at least 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) at least one grease phase comprising oily and / or pasty fatty compounds, with the addition of a grease phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil, which is selected from nonpolar oils, polar oils and mixtures thereof, polar oils are chosen from hydrocarbon based oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils; the non-volatile silicone oil being chosen from phenylated silicones or polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or alkyl or alkoxy groups at the end of the silicone chain, which each have 2 to 24 carbon atoms, less than 50% by weight of all these oil (s) (is) are silicone oils, and the said C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ linear fatty acid salt is selected from sodium stearate and sodium behenate, and the content of the grease phase is between 10% and 50% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition, according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the linear fatty acid salt content of Petition 870170097946, of 12/14/2017, p. 5/11 2/4 C ₁₆ -C ₂₅ is between 1% and 15% by weight, in particular between 4% and 9% by weight, even more particularly, between 7.5% and 8.5% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition . Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the water content is between 20% and 70% by weight, in particular between 30% and 60% by weight, and even more particularly, between 40 % and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by the fact that the grease phase content is between 15% and 25% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said grease phase comprises at least one non-polar oil and at least one polar oil. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the polar oil content is between 10% and 50% by weight, more particularly between 15% and 25% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the non-polar oil content is between 10% and 50% by weight, more particularly between 15% and 25% by weight, in relation to weight total composition. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said at least one non-polar oil is selected from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, isoeicosane, squalane, and mixtures thereof and said at least one polar oil is caprylic / capric triglyceride. 9. Composition, according to any of the Petition 870170097946, of 12/14/2017, p. 6/11 3/4 claims 1 to 8, characterized by the fact that it comprises a wetting agent. 10. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said wetting agent is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, tripropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the content of the wetting agent is between 0.1% and 40% by weight, in particular between 5% and 25% by weight, and even more particularly between 10% and 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises an additional emulsifier. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that said additional emulsifier is selected from PEG-150 distearate, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, glyceryl stearate , PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the content of the additional emulsifier is between 1% and 35% by weight, in particular between 2% and 25% by weight, and, even more particularly, between 5% and 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that said additional emulsifier is bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane which is present in a content between 0.1% and 20% in Petition 870170097946, of 12/14/2017, p. 7/11 4/4 weight, in particular between 1% and 10% by weight, and, even more particularly, between 2% and 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it comprises waxes. 17. Method for makeup and / or care for the skin and / or lips, and preferably for the lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises applying to the skin and / or lips a composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16. Petition 870170097946, of 12/14/2017, p. 11/11