JP2016135816A - Oily makeup-removing composition - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To satisfy a need that still exists for a makeup-removing or cleansing product comprising ingredients of natural origin that show good harmlessness with respect to keratin materials, while nevertheless having the properties required for products that are both efficient on long-lasting makeups, practical to use and comfortable.SOLUTION: The applicant has discovered that the combination of sunflower wax and of particular surfactants makes it possible to formulate an oil-based makeup-removing composition that is easily rinsable.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to an oil-based cosmetic composition comprising a vegetable wax and a specific surfactant, and more particularly to an oil-based cosmetic composition for removing make-up or removing make-up from keratin. .

  Current make-up technologies are becoming increasingly innovative and efficient, long-lasting, such as transfer-resistant foundations, long-lasting lipsticks, water-resistant mascara or double action mascara (mascara application after base application). More and more make-up product users are using time-sustained products.

  However, this type of product is more difficult to remove than a standard makeup product. Accordingly, there is a need for a makeup removal product that is not only extremely efficient and practical, but also gentle to the skin and at the same time has good cosmetic quality (soft and comfortable to use).

  Among the widely proposed make-up removal products, it is mainly found in liquid form compositions. For example, make-up removal oil, which is efficient but difficult to rinse off, is difficult to remove from the skin, and there is a risk of the product flowing over the hands, so it is relatively impractical. is there.

  Accordingly, there is a need to formulate a practical and comfortable make-up removal product that is efficient and non-liquid for water-resistant make-up products. For example, rinsable oil-based makeup removal compositions composed of waxes derived from petrochemical products are known.

  In recent years, the cosmetics market is characterized by a great demand for blends containing components derived from nature. Consumers are looking for formulations that do not contain synthetic materials and prefer natural compounds of natural origin or certified biological origin, which are described as having better skin tolerance and affinity, More environmentally friendly.

  The term “natural compound” refers to a compound obtained directly from soil or soil, or obtained from plants or animals, if necessary, by one or more physical methods such as grinding, purification, distillation, purification or filtration. Means.

  The term “naturally-occurring compound” refers to a natural compound that has been subjected to one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments resulting in modifications that do not affect the intrinsic quality of the compound and / or It means a compound mainly containing natural components, which may or may not be modified.

WO2007 / 068371 WO2008 / 155059

ISO standard 11357-3; 1999

  Therefore, there is a need for products that contain naturally occurring ingredients that exhibit good harmlessness to keratins, yet are effective for long-lasting make-up, practical and comfortable. There remains a need for makeup removal or cleansing products that have properties.

  Applicants have discovered that combining sunflower wax and certain surfactants makes it possible to formulate an oil-based make-up removal composition that can be easily rinsed off.

More particularly, one subject of the present invention is
-At least one sunflower wax,
-Fatty acid ester of polyglycerol containing 2 to 9 glycerol units, aliphatic alkyl ether of glycerol or polyglycerol containing 1 to 9 glycerol groups, fatty acid ester of sucrose, oxyethylenation containing at least 8 oxyethylene groups At least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters, and caprylic acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof;
-An oily cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil.

  The composition according to the invention is advantageously in solid form. The term “solid composition” means a composition that does not flow under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

  The hardness of the composition according to the invention can be in the range of 10 to 50 kPa, even better 20 to 45 kPa, at 20 ° C.

  The hardness of the composition is a TAX-T2i® Stable Micro System with a 5 kg force sensor, equipped with Texture Expert Exceed® operating software and equipped with a 6 mm diameter No. 6 cylindrical stainless steel spindle. It can be measured using a texturometer.

  The texturometer measures the resistance to deformation of the composition when the spindle contacts the sample. The spindle returns to the initial position after reaching the programmed maximum depth L0 in the sample.

  The hardness (expressed in grams or Newton) shall be equal to the deformation resistance value of the composition when the spindle is in the final position of the path.

The parameters to be applied are advantageously as follows:
-Trigger force: 100g,
-Speed before contact: 0.1mm.s ^-1
-Movement speed into the sample: 0.1mm.s ^-1
-Maximum depth L0: 3mm.

  Composition samples are prepared in 9 cm diameter bottles.

  The container is filled with a sufficient amount of composition to overcome any edge effects and the surface of the sample is completely smooth and flat.

  The container is placed in a chamber adjusted to 25 ° C. and controlled in relative humidity with a thermostat, and then the measurement is carried out.

  Measure at least three times in a star shape on the surface of the sample.

  The hardness shall be equal to the average of the three measurements made taking into account the Fmax value.

  Values are obtained in grams and converted to kPa.

  The composition according to the invention is preferably anhydrous. The term “anhydrous composition” refers to a composition comprising less than 5% water, even better, less than 2%, even better still less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% water. Means. In particular, the composition according to the invention may not contain water.

  The composition according to the invention comprises one or more selected from lower alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol and polyols such as glycerol, glycols such as butylene glycol, in addition to water that may be present Plural kinds of hydrophilic solvents can be contained. The amount of the hydrophilic solvent in the composition is advantageously 5% by mass or less, and even more preferably 2% by mass or less, preferably 0.5% by mass or less.

Wax For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting point of 30 ° C. or higher, Means up to 120 ° C. In particular, the melting point of the wax is 30 ° C or higher, and even better 45 ° C or higher.

  For the purposes of the present invention, melting point corresponds to the temperature at the end of the endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (Differential Scanning Calorimetry or DSC) described in ISO standard 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows.
A 5 mg sample of wax in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase in the range of -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 10 ° C / min, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min. Finally, a second temperature increase in the range of −20 ° C. to 100 ° C. is applied at a heating rate of 5 ° C./min. During the second temperature rise, the change in the difference between the force absorbed by the empty crucible and the force absorbed by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of a compound is a temperature value corresponding to the peak apex of a curve that represents the change in absorbed force difference as a function of temperature.

  The sunflower wax used in the composition according to the invention conveniently has a melting point of 50 ° C. or higher, preferably 60 ° C. or higher, and even better 70 ° C. or higher, and can be up to 90 ° C.

  The hardness of the wax is advantageously greater than 5 MPa at 20 ° C., in particular in the range from 5 to 15 MPa.

  The hardness of the wax is quantified by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company Rheo. The texturometer is equipped with a 2 mm diameter stainless steel cylinder that moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / sec and penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

  The measurement protocol is as follows. Melt the wax at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The molten wax is poured into a container with a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm. When the wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours, the surface of the wax becomes flat and smooth. The wax is then stored at 20 ° C. for at least 1 hour before measuring the hardness or viscosity.

  The texturometer spindle is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm / s and then penetrated into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the spindle penetrates the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm, the spindle is held for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then pulled up at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

  The hardness value is the measured maximum compressive force divided by the surface area at which the texturometer cylinder contacts the wax.

  As an example of sunflower wax that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the wax sold under the name Sunflower wax by the company Koster Keunen.

  The sunflower wax is from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even better from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 4% by weight to the total weight of the composition. It can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content in the range of 8% by weight.

Nonionic surfactant The composition comprises a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol containing 2 to 9 glycerol units, an aliphatic alkyl ether of glycerol or polyglycerol containing 1 to 9 glycerol groups, a fatty acid ester of sucrose, at least 8 It comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from oxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing oxyethylene groups, caprylic acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of these nonionic surfactants is, for example, from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. %, And even better still in the range of 1% to 5% by weight.

a) Fatty acid esters of polyglycerol containing 2 to 9 glycerol units.
According to the invention, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol comprises polyglycerol containing 2 to 9 glycerol units, preferably 3 to 7 glycerol units, and 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16 carbons. It is preferably selected from esters derived from the reaction with atoms, and even better still with at least one fatty acid containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

  The fatty acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated.

  The fatty acid can be selected from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof. The fatty acid is in particular lauric acid.

  The fatty acid esters of polyglycerol can be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, as well as polyesters and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using fatty acid monoesters of polyglycerol.

  The fatty acid ester of polyglycerol can be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of monoesters and diesters, or a mixture of monoesters, diesters and triesters. Preference is given to using mixtures which are predominantly monoesters.

  According to one preferred embodiment, polyglycerol containing 3-7 glycerol units, in particular 5 glycerol units, and preferably saturated, such as lauric acid and / or capric acid, with 10-14 carbon atoms. Polyglycerol fatty acid esters selected from esters derived from reaction with at least one fatty acid comprising, more preferably saturated fatty acids containing 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid are used.

  For example, derived from the reaction of polyglycerol-5 (a glycerol homopolymer containing 5 glycerol units) with lauric acid, such as a product sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the designation SunSoft A-121E From the reaction of polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer containing 4 glycerol units) and capric acid such as ester (INCI name: polyglyceryl-5 laurate), a product sold under the designation Tegosoft PC41 by Evonik Derived esters (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) are included.

b) Aliphatic alkyl ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol.
This is particularly selected from aliphatic alkyl ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and even better 10 to 14 carbon atoms. The number of glycerol units can range from 1 to 9, even better, 1-5, and even better still 1-3. Preference is given to using monoethers.

  The aliphatic alcohol can be selected from oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol.

  Examples of this type of compound include: Lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), 1.5 moles of lauryl alcohol such as Chimexane NV from Chimex (i.e. 1.5 glyceryl lauryl ether), containing 4 moles of glycerol Oleyl alcohol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), 2 moles of glycerol, 6 moles of glycerol containing Octadecanol containing allyl alcohol, 6 moles glycerol, and 6 moles glycerol.

c) Fatty acid esters of sucrose Fatty acid esters of sucrose are sucrose (sucrose) and 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and even better 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and even more. Are preferably selected from esters derived from reaction with fatty acids containing 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

  Fatty acids containing 10 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

  The fatty acid can be selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid and capric acid, or mixtures thereof.

  According to one embodiment, the fatty acid ester of sucrose is sucrose and a fatty acid containing 10-18 carbon atoms, preferably 12-16 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and / or palmitic acid. It is selected from esters derived from the reaction, such as sucrose laurate or sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

  The fatty acid ester of sucrose can be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, as well as polyesters and mixtures thereof. Esters with a low degree of esterification, for example fatty acid monoesters, diesters or triesters of sucrose, or mixtures thereof are preferably used. The fatty acid ester of sucrose can be in the form of a mixture of esters having a low degree of esterification, for example, a mixture of monoester and diester, or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester.

  When a mixture of fatty acid esters of sucrose is used, the preferred mixture is predominantly esters with a low degree of esterification, in particular monoesters, for example at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight of the mixture of fatty acid esters of sucrose. Occupy.

  It is particularly possible to use mixtures of esters of sucrose and fatty acids containing 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters of lauric acid or palmitic acid, said mixture being , Optionally containing an ester of sucrose and a fatty acid, the fatty acid containing more than 16 carbon atoms (with a content of 40% by weight or less, based on the weight of the fatty acid ester mixture of sucrose).

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sucrose and fatty acids that may be mentioned include:
-Surfhope SE Cosme C-1416 (HLB value 16, sucrose myristate, containing about 80% monoester, the remainder of the mixture consisting of di- and triester),
-Surfhope SE Cosme C-1216 (INCI name sucrose laurate, HLB value 16, containing about 75% to 90% monoester, the remainder of the mixture consisting of di- and triester),
-Surfhope SE Cosme C-1215L (INCI name sucrose laurate, equivalent to HLB value 15, containing about 70% monoester, the remainder of the mixture is composed of diester and other polyester),
-Surfhope SE Cosme C-1616 (HLB value 16, mixture of esters of sucrose with palmitic acid and / or stearic acid (INCI name: palmitate), containing 75% -90% of monoester, the remainder of the mixture being di-and Composed of triesters, optionally including sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate stearate).

  Established by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd. under the designation DK Ester S-L18A, the INCI name is sucrose laurate, HLB is equivalent to 17, 70% monoester and 30% diester and triester Mention may also be made of the esters it contains.

Examples of esters of sucrose and fatty acids or mixtures of esters may also include:
-Products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by Crodesta, respectively, from monoester 73% and diester and triester 27%, monoester 61% and diester, triester and tetra From 39% ester, 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, 39% monoester and diester, triester and tetraester 61 Representing sucrose palmitostearate formed from%, as well as sucrose monolaurate,
-Products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example B370, corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester,
-Mono-dipalmito-sucrose stearate sold under the name Tegosoft PSE by Goldschmidt.

  According to one preferred embodiment, sucrose laurate is used.

d) The oxyethylenated fatty acid ester containing at least 8 oxyethylene groups can be selected from:
-Oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of polyols which contain at least 8 oxyethylene groups and can contain up to 40 oxyethylene groups, in particular 8-20 carbon atoms, preferably 10-16 An oxyethylenated ester of a fatty acid containing carbon atoms, and better still 10-14 carbon atoms, with glycerol, such as oxyethylated (20OE) glyceryl triisostearate (INCI name: PEG-20 triisostearate) Glyceryl),
-Fatty acids (especially those of C12 to C30, preferably C12 to C20, even better C14 to C18 acids), in particular esters of isostearic acid or oleic acid with sorbitan and / or oxyethylenated sorbitol ethers , Containing at least 8 oxyethylene groups and capable of containing up to 40 oxyethylene groups, such as sorbitan trioleate 20OE (INCI name: polysorbate 85), sorbes-30 tetraisostearate,
Polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol and fatty acids, in particular fatty acids containing 12-30 carbon atoms, preferably 14-26 carbon atoms, and even better 14-14 carbon atoms, for example oleic acid Or an ester with isostearic acid that contains at least 8 oxyethylene groups and can contain up to 40 oxyethylene groups, such as polyethylene glycol monoisostearate (8OE) (INCI name: PEG-8 isostearate) ),
-And mixtures of these.

e) Caprylic acid esters of glycerol are selected in particular from caprylic acid monoesters and diesters and mixtures thereof (INCI names: glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl dicaprylate). It is also possible to use mixtures of caprylic acid monoesters and diesters, in particular mixtures of caprylic acid monoesters and diesters, which are preferably predominantly monoester (content> 50%). Mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name Capmul MCM by Cognis (INCI name: capryl / glycerides caprate), which is a mixture mainly composed of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl dicaprylate, Including capric acid esters of
-And mixtures of these.

Oil The term “oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

  The oil used in the composition according to the invention is different from the nonionic surfactants described above.

  The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention is preferably at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, even better still at least 70% by weight, still better still at least better than the total weight of the composition. 80%, or at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of oil is in particular 50% to 95% by weight, preferably 60% to 90%, even better still 70% to 90%, still better, relative to the total weight of the composition May be in the range of 80% to 90% by weight.

Examples of oils that can be used more specifically in the composition of the present invention include the following.
-Plant-derived triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, for example products sold by Sterineries Dubois or products sold by Dynamite Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, Miglyol 812 and Miglyol 818, jojoba oil And shea butter oil,
Conveniently plant-derived volatile linear alkanes containing from -7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile linear alkanes suitable for use in the present invention include those described in the patent application WO 2007/068371 from Cognis.

Examples of volatile linear alkanes suitable for use in the present invention include n-nonane (C ₉ ), n-decane (C ₁₀ ), n-undecane (C ₁₁ ), n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ), Mention may be made of n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ), n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ), n-pentadecane (C ₁₅ ), n-hexadecane (C ₁₆ ) and n-heptadecane (C ₁₇ ), and mixtures thereof. According to one mode, a mixture of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis patent application WO 2008/155059 would be used. Let's go. The following can also be mentioned. n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold under the designation Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 by Sasol, respectively, and mixtures thereof,
At least one carbon atom, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 6-26 carbon atoms, even better 6-20 carbon atoms, and even better still 6-16 carbon atoms Esters derived from the reaction of fatty acids with at least one alcohol containing 1 to 17 carbon atoms, and better still 3 to 15 carbon atoms. The following can be mentioned in particular: Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, capric acid / 2-ethylhexyl caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate and hexyl laurate,
Lactic acid esters of aliphatic alcohols containing -12 or 13 carbon atoms,
-Dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis
-Aliphatic alkyl ethers containing 6-20 carbon atoms, especially from plants, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),
-Octildodecanol,
And mixtures of these.

  A preferred oil is 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention also contains adjuvants common in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fragrances, fragrance peptizers, fillers, dyes and hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. Can do. The nature of the adjuvant and its amount should be such that it does not alter the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, for example 0.001% to 10% of the total mass of the composition.

  Examples of active agents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include the following. Sedatives such as allantoin and bisabolol; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterial agents such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils; vitamins such as retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E) , Niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5), and derivatives thereof such as esters of these vitamins (palmitic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosyl vitamin C or glycopyrano Silascorbic acid (ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and mixtures thereof.

  It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art adds to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties inherent in the composition according to the invention are not adversely affected or substantially not affected by the envisaged addition. The optional additives that will be selected will be carefully selected.

  The composition of the present invention can be used for any cosmetic application. This composition is particularly suitable for removing makeup from the skin and / or surrounding areas of the eyes and / or from the lips.

  Another subject of the invention is said keratin, such as skin including the scalp, keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or hair, and / or lips, characterized in that the cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the keratin A cleansing or removal method for make-up.

  According to one embodiment, the method comprises rinsing from the keratin after application of the composition.

  According to one embodiment, the method comprises the step of wetting the keratinous material with water before applying the composition to the keratinous material.

  According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a lozenge (or block or tablet) (solid up to about 4 cm in size) or powder, the powder being finely divided as particles Is a solid. In particular, the composition may be in the form of a single dose tablet that melts in the hand before application to the keratin.

  The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and are in no way limiting. All amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total mass of the composition. The name of the compound is indicated as the chemical name or the INCI name, as the case may be.

(Example)
Examples 1-6 Make-up Removal Balm The following compositions were prepared comprising various plant-derived waxes and petrochemical-derived waxes (polyethylene wax).

  Only the compositions of Examples 3, 5 and 6 are in solid form with a wax-like appearance and have a suitable hardness to take the composition with fingers, while other compositions have a discreet appearance It is.

Three specialists tested the stable compositions of Examples 3, 5 and 6 according to the following protocol.
-Wash your hands with household soap, then dry your hands,
-Using a dry index finger, take a small amount of product (approx. 0.25 g) from the center of the container and check for finger contact.
-Then wet the hands to be applied,
-Mass the wet back of the hand with a circular index finger for 5 seconds in a circular motion. Check the rate of oil release during application, and soaping (if there is product deformation),
-Next, rinse with running water of 30 ℃ for 10 seconds (check rinsing ability),
-Use a cloth to lightly dry and evaluate the finish on the skin.

  Each evaluation criterion was rated on a scale ranging from --- to +++.

  The results are as follows.

  The composition of Example 3 comprising candelilla wax is heterogeneous when taken on the finger.

  The composition based on sunflower wax according to the invention has a greater degree of whitening during rinsing than the composition of Example 5 containing polyethylene wax. This is a sign of a better deformation effect associated with a better rinsing sensation for the consumer.

Stability The compositions of Examples 5 and 6 were calcined at 45 ° C. for 1 month and then their hardness was measured after a dwell time in the oven. Composition 6 according to the invention based on sunflower wax maintains a stable hardness (41-42 kPa), but the hardness of the composition of Example 5 is reduced (formerly 35 kPa, 1 at 45 ° C.). 15kPa after a month).

(Examples 7 to 12) Makeup removal balm

  Three experts tested these compositions according to the protocol described above and rated each criterion on a scale ranging from --- to +++.

  The results are as follows.

  These tests show that only the surfactants according to the present invention are homogeneous, promote oil release upon application, do not soap when applied, whiten upon rinsing and exhibit good rinsing ability. It is possible to obtain a composition satisfying

Claims (17)

-At least one sunflower wax,
-Polyglycerols containing 2-9 glycerol units, preferably 3-7 glycerol units, and 8-16 carbon atoms, preferably 10-16 carbon atoms, and even better 10-14 Of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol containing 2 to 9 glycerol units, selected from esters derived from reaction with at least one fatty acid containing carbon atoms, of 1 to 9 glycerol groups, of glycerol or polyglycerol Fatty alkyl ethers, fatty acid esters of sucrose, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing at least 8 oxyethylene groups, and caprylic acid esters of glycerol, in particular caprylic acid monoesters and diesters and mixtures thereof, and these At least one selected from a mixture of And ionic surfactants,
-An oily cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the melting point of the wax is 50 ° C. or higher, preferably 60 ° C. or higher, even better 70 ° C. or higher and can be up to 90 ° C.   The sunflower wax is from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 1% to 15%, in particular from 3% to 10%, more particularly 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is present in a content ranging from -8% by weight.   The amount of nonionic surfactant is 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, and even better 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, 4. The composition according to claim 1, further preferably in the range of 1% to 5% by weight.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 9 glycerol units is selected from fatty acid monoesters of polyglycerol.   The fatty acid ester of the polyglycerol comprises a polyglycerol containing 3 to 7 glycerol units, in particular 5 glycerol units, and preferably saturated and containing 10 to 14 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and / or capric acid 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is selected from esters derived from reaction with at least one fatty acid.   7. Fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is selected from lauric acid ester of polyglycerol-5 (glycerol homopolymer containing 5 glycerol units). Composition.   Of glycerol or polyglycerol, wherein said aliphatic alkyl ether of glycerol or polyglycerol contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and even better 10 to 14 carbon atoms 8.Choose from aliphatic alkyl ethers, characterized in that the number of glycerol units ranges from 1 to 5, and even better from 1 to 3. Composition.   2. The aliphatic alcohol of the aliphatic alkyl ether of glycerol or polyglycerol is selected from oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. 9. The composition according to any one of 1 to 8.   10.The aliphatic alkyl ether of glycerol or polyglycerol is selected from lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol (i.e. 1.5 glyceryl lauryl ether). Composition.   The fatty acid ester of sucrose is sucrose (sucrose) and 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, even better 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and even better 12 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is selected from esters derived from reaction with fatty acids containing -16 carbon atoms, in particular lauric acid.   The oxyethylenated fatty acid ester comprising at least 8 oxyethylene groups comprises at least 8 oxyethylene groups, an oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of a polyol, a fatty acid (especially of C12-C30, preferably of a C12-C20 acid) and sorbitan And / or oxyethylenated esters with sorbitol ethers, and fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol containing at least 8 oxyethylene groups, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that 12. The composition according to any one of 1 to 11. The oil is
-Plant-derived triglycerides, such as jojoba oil or shea butter oil,
Conveniently a volatile linear alkane of plant origin containing from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms,
At least one carbon atom, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 6-26 carbon atoms, even better 6-20 carbon atoms, and even better still 6-16 carbon atoms Esters derived from the reaction of fatty acids with at least one alcohol containing 1 to 17 carbon atoms, and better still 3 to 15 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, caprin Acid / 2-ethylhexyl caprylate (or caprylic acid / octyl caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, aliphatic alcohols containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms Lactate, and dicaprylyl carbonate,
A plant-derived aliphatic alkyl ether containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether,
-Octildodecanol,
13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is selected from and mixtures thereof.   The amount of oil is at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, even better still at least 70%, still better still at least 80%, or of the composition, relative to the total weight of the composition; 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is even at least 90% by weight, based on the total weight.   15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is anhydrous.   16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a lozenge or a powder.   17. A method for cleansing or removing makeup from the keratin, wherein the cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the keratin.