WO2007083184A2 - Dermatologie cosmetique appliquée sur une peau acnéique et comédogène - Google Patents

Dermatologie cosmetique appliquée sur une peau acnéique et comédogène Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2007083184A2
WO2007083184A2 PCT/IB2006/003579 IB2006003579W WO2007083184A2 WO 2007083184 A2 WO2007083184 A2 WO 2007083184A2 IB 2006003579 W IB2006003579 W IB 2006003579W WO 2007083184 A2 WO2007083184 A2 WO 2007083184A2
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skin
acid
formula
pigment
pigment according
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PCT/IB2006/003579
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English (en)
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WO2007083184A3 (fr
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Carlo Ghisalberti
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Carlo Ghisalberti
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    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09CTREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
    • C09C1/00Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
    • C09C1/28Compounds of silicon
    • C09C1/30Silicic acid
    • C09C1/3063Treatment with low-molecular organic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/005Antimicrobial preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09CTREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
    • C09C1/00Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09CTREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
    • C09C1/00Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
    • C09C1/04Compounds of zinc
    • C09C1/043Zinc oxide
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09CTREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
    • C09C1/00Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
    • C09C1/22Compounds of iron
    • C09C1/24Oxides of iron
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09CTREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
    • C09C1/00Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
    • C09C1/36Compounds of titanium
    • C09C1/3607Titanium dioxide
    • C09C1/3669Treatment with low-molecular organic compounds
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09CTREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
    • C09C1/00Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
    • C09C1/40Compounds of aluminium
    • C09C1/407Aluminium oxides or hydroxides
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09CTREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
    • C09C3/00Treatment in general of inorganic materials, other than fibrous fillers, to enhance their pigmenting or filling properties
    • C09C3/08Treatment with low-molecular-weight non-polymer organic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/57Compounds covalently linked to a(n inert) carrier molecule, e.g. conjugates, pro-fragrances
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/622Coated by organic compounds

Definitions

  • the invention refers to pigments coated with anti-acne substances which afford the sustained release of said substances.
  • the present invention also refers to a method to treat acneic and comedogenic skin through the use of a makeup comprising said pigments, wherein such use provides the immediate aesthetic relief (cover) the acneic imperfection underneath.
  • the invention also refers to cosmetic compositions comprising said pigments.
  • BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Surface-modified pigments and fillers for cosmetic applications were introduced to formulators in USA and Europe from Japan by Shoji Murata and Ryota Myoshi in 1981.
  • filler pigments and colored pigments have been surface-treated with a variety of compounds to tailor-made their physico-chemical properties. Indeed, different performances are attained by each surface-modifier: silicones, metallic soaps, acyl amino acids, hydrogenated lecithin, collagen soaps, fluoro-carbons, fuoro-silicones, and so on.
  • Surface-modified pigments have revolutionized the formulation of pressed powders, anhydrous foundations, blushers, and water-in-oil
  • the "mixed" surface coating mentioned here utilizes an initial layer of coating on the pigment as a base on which an additional layer of coating is reacted. Though mixed coating consists of two different layers of chemical compounds, these two layers are synthesized (reacted) to be basically one compound that surrounds the base material.
  • compositions contain saturated lipid and other ingredients which can be occlusive on skin pores, i.e. acting as comedogenic and/or favouring the formation of acne, particularly in oily skin of predisposed subjects.
  • the term "comedogenic” describes the tendency of a topical preparation or material to induce the formation of sebum plugs (comedones) in the openings of sebaceous glands.
  • the comedones undergo to inflammatory and infective processes which end up in the visible form of acne. This occurs when an increased sebum production accompanies a simultaneous blockage of the sebaceous gland openings. Then, the closed sebaceous glands become infected by anaerobic microorganisms such as Propionibacteria.
  • the makeup industry is paying little if any attention to acneic and comedogenic skin, a condition prone to the acne degeneration by the infection of Propionibacteria - acnes or Corynebacterium acnes.
  • pigments and topical compositions comprising thereof to treat acneic skin while providing an attractive makeup presentation, i.e. to improve the skin appearance with a concomitant effect of exfoliating/disinfecting action.
  • the use of pigments in the manufacturing cosmetic/dermatologic composition comprising thereof can combat acneic skin on regular use, while immediately improving the skin appearance from the application of a cosmetic/dermatologic makeup.
  • the invention also relates a method of manufacturing such pigment according to claims 27-29 and to a cosmetic/dermatologic product incorporating said pigment.
  • the present invention also provide a method of prevention or treatment of acneic skin while improving the skin appearance, since the acneic imperfections are hidden.
  • the pigments of invention comprise a pigment coated with anti-acne substances to promote their sustained release to afford the skin exfoliation and/or to disinfect skin and thus treat acneic skin.
  • the pigments of the present invention have the following structure (I): wherein:
  • C is a core pigment linked by a polyvalent cation M a the anion of a substance A capable to promote skin exfoliation and/or to disinfect skin, with the optional presence of bonded anionic surfactant B linked by a polyvalent cation M b .
  • the b/a ratio ranges from 0 to about 10 w/w. According to another preferred embodiment, the b/a ratio ranges from about 0.1 to about 16 w/w, more preferably from about 1 to about 2 w/w.
  • A ranges from 0.1% to 20% w/w on C, preferably 1 % to 4% w/w on C.
  • M a and M b are preferably selected from: Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Ca 2+ , Ti 4+ , Si 4+ , Al 3+ , Sn 4+ , Mg 2+ , Sr 2+ , Ti 4+ , Zr 4+ , Ce 4+ , Fe 2+/3+ , Cr 6+ , and Mn 2+ ; more preferably selected from: Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Ca 2+ , Mg 2+ , and Al 3+ , even more preferably selected from: Zn 2+ , Ca 2+ , and Al 3+ .
  • M a and M b are present at least in the quantity necessary to perform the linkage of a substance A and of the anionic surfactant B (when present) to C according to the formula (I).
  • the pigments according the invention possess a core C (i.e. the pigment before being treated) consisting of pigments and pigment extenders of mean particle size from 3,000 ⁇ m to 0.001 ⁇ m, preferably from 20 ⁇ m to 0.01 ⁇ m.
  • C as used herein include any pigment to be blended in cosmetics, including mixture and composite forms, e.g. those included in Rona catalogue (Merck, Darmstadt, D).
  • Suitable Q include: titanium dioxide and oxide hydrated (TiO 2 , rutile and anatase, Ti(OH) 2 ), zinc oxide (ZnO), anhydrous and hydrated alumina (Al 2 O 3 , AlOOH), tin IV oxide (SnO 2 ), cerium oxide (CeO 4 ), and zirconium dioxide (ZrO 2 ), in sub-micron (1 - 0.1 ⁇ m) or in ultrafme forms (pigments having mean particle size ⁇ 0.1 ⁇ m)
  • Suitable CU include: iron oxides and hydroxides such as FeO (yellow), Fe 2 O 3 and
  • Fe 2 O 3 -H 2 O red
  • Fe x O y brown
  • Fe 3 O 4 black
  • Suitable Q U include: mica (natural, synthetic, white, gold, red, black, and lithia micas), sericite, talc, kaolin, calcium and magnesium carbonate, calcium phosphate, alumina and aluminium hydroxide, magnesium oxide, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, silicic acid and silica, silicates (magnesium, aluminium, magnesium- aluminium silicate, calcium, and strontium silicates), silicon carbide, metal salts of tungstic acid, magnesium aluminate, magnesium metasilicate aluminate, chlorohydroxyaluminium, clay, bentonite, zeolite, smectite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic pigment, and boron nitride; specific composite extender pigments such as Excel Mica, Excel Pearl and Pigment La Vie (from Miyoshi Kasei, J), optically gloss pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica, pearl essence, pigment prepared by coating synthetic
  • MetashineTM Nippon Sheet Glass, J
  • alumina flake with tin oxide and titanium dioxide or by coating aluminium flake with titanium dioxide, or by coating copper flake with silica, or by coating bronze flake with silica, or by coating aluminium flake with silica, or by coating coloring pigments (e.g. red iron oxide) with silica; other pigments such as luminescent pigment (e.g. LuminovaTM, Mitsui, J), aluminium and stainless pigment, tourmaline pigment, and amber pigment; etc.
  • Suitable Q v include: tar pigment prepared into the form of lake, and naturally occurring dyes prepared into the form of lake such as Red No.s 3, 10, 106, 201, 202, 204, 205, 220, 226, 227, 228, 230, 401, 505, Yellow No.s 4, 5, Yellow 202, 203, 204, 401, Blue No.s 1, 2, 201, 404, Green No.s 3, 201, 204, 205, Orange No.s 201, 203, 204, 206, 207.
  • Natural dyes lakes include pigments such as carmine, laccaic acid, carsamine, brazilin, and crocin. Further examples include hybrid pigments, e.g. those disclosed in our previous patents WO01/55262 and WO01/55263.
  • Suitable C v include: cellulose fibres, wood dust, cotton fibres, starch, and synthetic microspheres, e.g. polyvinylidene/acrylonitrile copolymer, crossliked hyaluronan, powdered poly-lactate, powdered polyethylene, powdered nylon, powdered silicone, powdered polypropylene, powdered polycarbonate, powdered urea-formaldehyde resin, powdered crosslinked gelatin, powdered collagen, powdered keratin, powdered polystyrene and powdered Teflon.
  • synthetic microspheres e.g. polyvinylidene/acrylonitrile copolymer, crossliked hyaluronan, powdered poly-lactate, powdered polyethylene, powdered nylon, powdered silicone, powdered polypropylene, powdered polycarbonate, powdered urea-formaldehyde resin, powdered crosslinked gelatin, powder
  • the pigments according to the invention are basically formed of a core pigment C linked via one or more cation M a and M b to the anion of a substance A capable to promote skin exfoliation and/or to disinfect skin, thus treat acneic skin by the sustained release of said substance.
  • Suitable A include: fumaric acid and monoester thereof, i.e. optionally esterified at a end-group by a Q.s-alkyl, e.g. mono-ethyl-fumarate, or an Aj ⁇ -ester, e.g. mono- salicyl-azelate.
  • Preferred Ai are fumaric acid, and mono-ethyl fumarate.
  • Suitable AU include: cysteine and derivatives include: L-cysteine itself and its derivatives, such as N-acetyl-cysteine, S-palmitoyl-cysteine, S-carboxymethyl- cysteine, methyl-S-carbamoyl-cysteine, S-acetamidomethyl-cysteine.
  • Suitable AU also include: cysteine prodrugs, e.g. condensed cysteines having a 1,3- thiazolidine-4-carboxylate structure such as L-2-oxo-l,3-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (“procysteine”), 2-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-l,3-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, and the like.
  • cysteine prodrugs e.g. condensed cysteines having a 1,3- thiazolidine-4-carboxylate structure such as L-2-oxo-l,3-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (“procysteine”), 2-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-l,3-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, and the like.
  • Preferred A U are L-cysteine, N-acetyl-cysteine, S-carboxymethyl-cysteine, S- palmitoyl-cysteine, and procysteine.
  • Suitable A;U include: benzoic acid; salicylic acid (2-hydroxybenzoic acid) and O- acyl- and O-aroyl-salicylates, e.g. acetyl salicylic acid ("ASA", or aspirin), salicyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate; and 5 -hydroxy-salicylates such as gentisic acid and ester thereof, e.g. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • ASA acetyl salicylic acid
  • phenyl salicylate phenyl salicylate
  • 5 -hydroxy-salicylates such as gentisic acid and ester thereof, e.g. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • Preferred A v are benzoic acid, salicylic acid, acetyl salicylic acid, benzyl salicylate, and gentisic acid.
  • Suitable Aj V include: pyrithione (2-pyridinethiol 1 -oxide) and analogs thereof, e.g. those described by Doose C, in Green Chemistry, 2004, 259-266; and J. Chrom. A, 2004, 1052(1-2), 103-110.
  • Preferred Aj V is pyrithione.
  • Suitable A v include: include octopirox (l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4- trimethylpentyl)-2(7H / )-pyridinone), ciclopirox (1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-cyclohexyl- 2(7H)-pyridmone) and analogs thereof, e.g. described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,455,551.
  • Preferred A v are octopirox and ciclopirox.
  • Suitable A v j include: tretinoin, (retinoic acid, ATRA, RA) and its isomers and equivalent, e.g. alitretinoin (9-cis-RA), isotretinoin (13-cis-RA), adapalene, bexarotene, fenretinide, acitretin, as well as free-carboxylic or free-phenolic containing arotinoids (e.g. TTNPB).
  • the substances Aj- A v beside their capacity to promote skin exfoliation and/or to disinfect skin, have at least a carboxylic, phenolic or thiophenolic group which can be converted in anionic form.
  • the anionic salt are soluble and/or dispersable in aqueous media, and this feature is of particularly use in the manufacturing steps carried out by ionic exchange either in wet-method (i.e. precipitation), or in semi-dry and dry-methods by ultra-mixing the solid powders, as further illustrated below.
  • substances A;-A v may be present alone or in combination, or their intrinsic properties (e.g. texture, water repellency, dispersability, wear properties) can be further enhanced by the presence of hydrophobic and/or lipophilic substances.
  • pigments of the invention may have a mixed layer comprising both A and B, the latter selected among an anionic surfactant capable of chelating M 3/ ),.
  • Anionic surfactants suitable for the purpose of the invention are the commercially available anionic surfactants, sold either as salt or in non-ionized form.
  • Suitable B include: carboxylate of formula 0 OOC-R; dicarboxylate of formula (" toOC-R'-COO"; ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylate of formula 0 OOC-CHR' -O-CO-R; alkylsuccinamate of formula 9 OOC-CH 2 CH 2 -O-CO-R ; N-alkanoyl-sarcosinate or - glycinate of formula 0 OOC-CH 2 -NR' -CO-R; N-acylglutamate or N-acylaspartate of formula (") OOC-CH 2 (CH 2 ) 0> i CH(NH-CO-R)-COO 0 ; and N ⁇ -acyl-lysinate of formula ⁇ OOC-CH(NH 2 )-(CH 2 ) 4 -NH-CO-R.
  • Suitable Bui include: alkyl sulfonate of formula ⁇ - 1 O 3 S-R ; alkylsulfate of formula ⁇ O 3 S-O-R ; alkyl ester sulfonate of formula: ⁇ O 3 S-CHR-COOR'; alkyl amide sulfate of formula ⁇ OsSO-NHR'-CO-R ; alkyl-isethionate of formula: (2' ⁇ O 3 S- CH 2 CH 2 -CO-R ; N-acyl-N-alkyltaurate of formula (2") O 3 S-GH2CH 2 -NR'-CO-R; C 9 - C 20 -alkylbenzen-sulfonate; alkylsulfosuccinate of
  • each -OR or -0-COR radical is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl or acyl C 2 -C 22 , preferably C 8 -C 18 ; said R optionally comprising a polyalkoxy chain of formula -(OCH 2 CHR') Z -O- with z comprised between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 10; and each R' is H or C 1 -C 3 alkyl, preferably C 1 .
  • Preferred -OR or -0OR radicals include those derived from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, palmitoleic, oleic, 12-hydroxystearic, 10- undecylenic, and ricinoleic acids and alcohols, alone or in combination, e.g. from vegetal sources.
  • the dicarboxylate of formula H OOC-R'-COO H is a straight C 4-14 chains end- terminated with two carboxylic groups, e.g.
  • saturated C 8-12 -dicarboxylic acid such as adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and dodecandioic acid unsaturated ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic acids such as straight C 4-14 chains end-terminated with two carboxylic groups, e.g. saturated C 8-12 -dicarboxylic acid such as adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and dodecandioic acid.
  • Each B offers distinctive performances, e.g. increases holding moisture capacity; reduce stickiness, increase spreading; enhances smooth feel and skin adhesion; increases refreshment and smoothness to cosmetic/dermatologic makeup.
  • the substances A and the optional surfactants B are employed as alkaline salts (e.g. sodium and potassium salts) or ammonium salts (e.g. ammonium and DEA salts) to facilitate water dispersion and the ionic exchange with polyvalent cations.
  • alkaline salts e.g. sodium and potassium salts
  • ammonium salts e.g. ammonium and DEA salts
  • Suitable polyvalent cations are selected among water soluble salts, e.g. sulfates, nitrates, chlorides and acetates of polyvalent cations including Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Ca 2+ , Ti 4+ ,
  • B is comprised up to 8% w/w on C.
  • the process of manufacturing the pigments of invention can either be carried out in wet/slurried form, wherein core pigment C is suspended in water and treated until the desired coating is attained; or in dry or semi-dry conditions, e.g. by high-intensity agitation, high-impact mixing, or a combination of these methods.
  • a general wet method is attained by ion-exchange in water of one or more A, or by the simultaneous or the sequential coating of A and B via ion-exchange.
  • a preferred wet method is the reaction onto the core pigments C suspended in water with one or more water-soluble multivalent cation(s), then with the slurry is reacted with an alkaline solution of A, optionally in the presence of B, as described in the Example.
  • Another preferred method is the direct precipitation.
  • the core pigments C are suspended in a solution of the alkaline salts of the substances A (and B if desired), then precipitation is carried out by the addition of a solution of the water- soluble salt of the polyvalent cation(s).
  • An illustrative example of this procedure comprises the formation of an alkaline solution of substances A (and B if desired), and Na or K aluminate or zincate.
  • the core pigment C is then suspended into the alkaline solution and brought to a pH between 9.5-10.5 by adding a mineral acid.
  • the system is then neutralized with acidic polyvalent cation(s) and/or mineral acid.
  • a further example of co-precipitation comprises the pre-coating with Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ or alkaline-earthy oxide-hydroxides, formed by suspending the core pigment C into water, heating at 40-90°C, followed adding an acidic salt of a polyvalent cation. Simultaneously, a mineral alkali or acid is added to keep pH 5-to-9 until precipitation takes place, then substance A (and B if desired) is precipitated by an acidic salt of the polyvalent cation(s).
  • Another preferred method is the dry or semi-dry coating of the core pigment C, which is carried out under high-intensity agitation or high-impact mixing of the powdered C with the substances A (and B if desired) in dry or "semi-dry" manner.
  • the latter means that A (and B if desired) are sprayed onto C as concentrated (e.g. alkaline or solvent) solutions.
  • This method applies to core pigments C comprising, or at least are surface-treated with, a metal oxide and hydroxide, since the cationic bridge C-M a -A (and C-M b -B) is formed at high temperature in situ by ion exchange of A (and B) in acidic form or as alkaline salt.
  • the pigments of invention can be produced by further well-known coating techniques which with only minor modifications to the overall features of the present invention.
  • the aqueous slurry obtained by a wet method can be dried up by several drying methods, e.g. filtration and grinding, spray drying, jet-milling or fluidized bed drying.
  • the slurry may be washed up from the salts and the pigments can be used directly to manufacture the cosmetic/dermatologic compositions as suspensions, optionally with 0.1-10% added dispersant(s) to stabilize them on storage (before use).
  • the present invention refers to a method of treatment of acneic skin by the use of said pigments in cosmetic/dermatologic compositions.
  • Acneic skin types have more oil-producing sebaceous follicles with little, if any, hair in them. This means the oily waste inside the follicle builds up because there's nothing to act as a transport system out of the skin. The sebum produced also is thicker and stickier in acneic skin types. Acneic skin produces 4-to-5 times more skin cells inside of the follicle than normal skin, so that the follicle tends to occlude because the skin does not exfoliate at sufficient high rate. When follicles fill with excess oil from the sebaceous glands and an accumulation of dead cells, a favourable environment for bacteria is created. Blackheads form and create a blockage at the mouth of the follicle. The follicles swell and rupture, causing the debris to escape into skin, irritating it and producing an inflamed red bump.
  • the method of the invention afford the prevention or treatment of acneic skin with the regular use of a makeup composition comprising the pigment of invention, while these also beautify the skin and hidden the acneic imperfection underneath.
  • the invention refers to cosmetic/dermatological compositions comprising the pigments described above.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise any cosmetically acceptable ingredients, and can be associated with other components with auxiliary action in the treatment and prevention of acne or providing skin benefits.
  • additional components are, for instance, other ingredients active against proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, e. g. antibiotics such as erythromycin, clindamycin and tetracyclines; antimicrobials such as chlorexidine and benzoylperoxide, synthetic or natural substances described as possessing inhibitory activity against P. acnes such as 1-pentadecanol and derivatives thereof, cedrene, caryophyllene, and longifolene; retinoids other-than-tretinoin such as adapalene, tazarotene, etc.; NSAID antinflammatory agents such as ibuprofen, naproxen, sulfacetamide; steroidal antinflammatory agents (e. g. hydrocortisone); vitamins; skin healing agents; and skin conditioners.
  • antibiotics such as erythromycin, clindamycin and tetracyclines
  • antimicrobials such as chlorexidine and benzoylperoxide, synthetic or natural substances described as possessing
  • Aj-A v substances itself, in the sense that, one or more of Aj- A v can be present both in form of C-bonded and dispersed (unbonded) form, i.e. admixed into the composition by physical means, hi this way the composition according to the invention afford both immediate and sustained release of As.
  • the pigments of the invention can be employed alone or in combination with others other non-coated or differently coated pigment, as well as nacres and/or fillers in makeup and sun protection compositions in any amounts between 0.1 and 80 % by weight or more.
  • the cosmetic/dermatologic comprising the pigment of the invention includes, for example, makeup cosmetics such as powder foundation, liquid foundation, cream foundation, oily foundation, stick foundation, pressed powder, face powder; lipstick, rouge; eye shadow, pencil, and liner; mascara; fundamental cosmetics such as emollient cream, emollient lotion, milky lotion, massage lotion, cold cream, whitening cream, emulsion, lotion, aesthetic lotion, carmine lotion; cleansing cosmetic/dermatologic for makeup, cleansing jell, liquid wash, washing foam, washing cream, washing powder; and others including cream and emulsions for sun screening and sun tanning.
  • Preferred cosme-dermatologic compositions are the foundations in different form, and the fundamental cosmetics as listed herein.
  • composition comprising the pigments of invention and of the curative method of invention are:
  • composition of invention may appropriately be compounded, e.g. with pigment dispersants, oils, surfactants, UV absorbents, preservatives, anti- oxidants, film forming agents, emollient agents, thickeners, dyes, and fragrance within a broad range with further advantages of the inventive purposes.
  • Example B Semi-dry method
  • the amount of the water-soluble multivalent cation salt and the caustic soda can be adjusted according to the amount of A (and B) used.
  • a (and B) in the form of alkaline salts are soluble and/or dispersible at room temperature, then the coating is carried out without warming; whilst the temperature is brought to 75-80°C when at least one of A and/or B not dissolves in water but as melted form (e.g. sodium palmitate).
  • a fatty blend is produced by mixing waxes and oils at 80°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
  • the pigments and fillers are added always at 80°C and with stirring until a homogeneous color is obtained.
  • the remainder of the components are added and the temperature is maintained at 80°C for 2 hours with stirring.
  • the resulting foundations have the following compositions:
  • the emulsion contains: Glycerin 87% 3.0g
  • grade 0 no comedones or papules but an history of recurring acne
  • grade I a few to moderate comedones + a few papules
  • grade II a few to moderate papules + a few pustules
  • grade III a few to moderate pustules + nodule/cyst and scarring.
  • the subjects are given the Applicative Examples 1 or 2 or 3 according to their skin hues, to be applied on regular daily base as decorative foundation.
  • the volunteers are assessed for the baseline and at the end of week 1, 2, 4, and 6.

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  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)
  • Medicines That Contain Protein Lipid Enzymes And Other Medicines (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des substances exfoliantes, désinfectantes et anti-androgènes à libération prolongée de pigments curatifs, adaptées à un maquillage dermatologique, éventuellement en présence d'un agent tensio-actif hydrophobe permettant d'obtenir des produits avec une texture améliorée. Les compositions de maquillage contenant ces pigments sont indiquées pour corriger immédiatement d'un point de vue esthétique l'imperfection acnéique, tout en garantissant un traitement bénéfique en douceur sur la peau acnéique et comédogène par libération d'agents anti-acné.
PCT/IB2006/003579 2006-01-20 2006-12-12 Dermatologie cosmetique appliquée sur une peau acnéique et comédogène WO2007083184A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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PCT/IB2006/000090 WO2007083174A1 (fr) 2006-01-20 2006-01-20 Pigments curatifs et maquillage comprenant ceux-ci
IBPCT/IB2006/000090 2006-01-20

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PCT/IB2006/003579 WO2007083184A2 (fr) 2006-01-20 2006-12-12 Dermatologie cosmetique appliquée sur une peau acnéique et comédogène

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KR20110021853A (ko) * 2008-05-12 2011-03-04 타그라 바이오테크놀로지스 리미티드 마이크로캡슐화된 착색제를 포함하는 국소 적용용 조성물
DE102010021671A1 (de) 2010-05-27 2011-12-01 Intendis Gmbh Azelainsäurehaltige Formulierung mit Pigmentzusatz
ITRM20110400A1 (it) 2011-07-27 2013-01-28 Uni Politecnica Delle Marche Nuove composizioni per la protezione solare.

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1467409A1 (de) * 1964-11-16 1968-12-12 Ayers Joseph Williams Mit Organo-Aluminiumverbindungen ueberzogene Pigmentteilchen
US3951680A (en) * 1973-05-02 1976-04-20 E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Filled polyolefin compositions
FR2537987A1 (fr) * 1982-12-18 1984-06-22 Pilot Ink Co Ltd Encre pour marqueurs, contenant du bioxyde de titane traite en surface
WO2001055262A1 (fr) * 2000-01-28 2001-08-02 Carlo Ghisalberti Nouveaux pigments et compositions les contenant
WO2005094156A2 (fr) * 2004-03-31 2005-10-13 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Oxydes metalliques a modification de surface, procedes de production desdits oxydes metalliques et leur utilisation dans des preparations cosmetiques

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1467409A1 (de) * 1964-11-16 1968-12-12 Ayers Joseph Williams Mit Organo-Aluminiumverbindungen ueberzogene Pigmentteilchen
US3951680A (en) * 1973-05-02 1976-04-20 E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Filled polyolefin compositions
FR2537987A1 (fr) * 1982-12-18 1984-06-22 Pilot Ink Co Ltd Encre pour marqueurs, contenant du bioxyde de titane traite en surface
WO2001055262A1 (fr) * 2000-01-28 2001-08-02 Carlo Ghisalberti Nouveaux pigments et compositions les contenant
WO2005094156A2 (fr) * 2004-03-31 2005-10-13 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Oxydes metalliques a modification de surface, procedes de production desdits oxydes metalliques et leur utilisation dans des preparations cosmetiques

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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Title
J. FALBE, M. REGITZ (ED.): "Römpp, Chemie Lexikon Vol. T-Z" 1995, GEORG THIEME VERLAG , STUTTGART NEW YORK , XP002402953 page 4821; compound UNDECENSÄURE *

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