WO2006128778A1 - Cosmetic preparations including an aqueous anis fruit extract and triazine photofilters - Google Patents

Cosmetic preparations including an aqueous anis fruit extract and triazine photofilters Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006128778A1
WO2006128778A1 PCT/EP2006/062194 EP2006062194W WO2006128778A1 WO 2006128778 A1 WO2006128778 A1 WO 2006128778A1 EP 2006062194 W EP2006062194 W EP 2006062194W WO 2006128778 A1 WO2006128778 A1 WO 2006128778A1
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Prior art keywords
polyethylene glycol
preparation according
acid
ether
skin
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PCT/EP2006/062194
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Uta Kruse
Christopher Mummert
Stefan Gallinat
Anja Knott
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2006128778A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006128778A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9771—Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and one or more triazine light filters.
  • anise Pimpinella anis fruit extract
  • a very important for the consumer, but it is difficult to quantitatively measurable property of cosmetic products is a certain invigorating and / or smooth skin feel and the suppleness of the skin after its application.
  • a rosy skin color (such as is available by staying in the open air) is considered by consumers to be healthy and therefore desirable, whereas a pale complexion is generally not as desirable. It is an object of the present invention to provide skincare preparations and preparations for the care of naturally aged skin, wherein the preparations are intended to nourish and beautify the external appearance of the body and at the same time reduce wrinkles and eliminate cellulites.
  • a cosmetic preparation containing (a) an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and (b) one or more several triazine light filters helps to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • Such a preparation has the significant advantage over prior art formulations that skin pores are refined and an overall healthier skin appearance is achieved.
  • aniseed extracts with triazines achieves a special photostabilization, so that the efficacy of the extracts is maintained over a longer period of time and no adverse effects are caused by degradation products.
  • such preparation has the following additional benefits: It promotes the natural regeneration process and cell metabolism of the skin, activates skin protection systems and makes the skin more resistant to stressors, counteracts (first) signs of aging, reducing lines and facial lines, refining pores and the skin is visibly tightened and smoothed, deeply activates the skin's own production of components of the connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (hyaluronic acids), effectively counteracts the formation of new wrinkles, replenishes energy depots / reserves and improves skin cell regeneration, Contributes to the rejuvenation of the inner skin structure by improving the epidermal-dermal (papillae), which refines and tones the facial and skin contours, makes the skin tangible and visible and improves skin elasticity.
  • papillae epidermal-dermal
  • the combination of aniseed fruit extracts with triazines achieves an improved action against specific types of body wrinkles, in particular against facial expressions and laugh lines.
  • the depth, the width and the volume of this Fold types are reduced in the shortest time, so that the skin is greatly rejuvenated in its appearance.
  • Bioxilift is an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract).
  • the extract has an amber-like color and has a characteristic anise smell.
  • the extract is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, but especially in potassium ions.
  • the recorded spectra provide no clue for the identification of individual lead structures or principles of action. Rather, the spectra represent "typical DP plant extract spectra.
  • the specific composition is:
  • Dry matter 40-60 g / l Mineral ashes 11-18 g / l Total protein 12-20 g / l pH 4.5-5.5
  • the extract is preserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and is soluble in ethanol up to a ratio of 40/60 ethanol / water (v / v).
  • the aniseed fruits are soiubilized in water and enzymatically hydrolyzed.
  • the ratio of raw material to extract is 1 A.
  • Soluble and insoluble phases are separated and subsequently filtered or subsequently sterile filtered.
  • Bioxilift is offered by the company SILAB, France.
  • Inventive triazine light filters are benzoxazole derivatives, such as.
  • Ethylhexyloxylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is sold under the trade name UVA- SORB HEB is available from Sigma 3V; 4.4 I, 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl), also: 2,4,6-tris [ anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150; 2- [4,6-Bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,
  • UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the total amount of the filter substances is from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-% D in each case based on the total weight of the preparations D is chosen to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • the preparation additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.
  • Inorganic pigments within the meaning of the invention are metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ) , Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and also the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilization agents may advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which case, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment may consist in the fact that the pigments are provided according to methods known per se with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. be.
  • the various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ).
  • inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.
  • Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • dimethylpolysiloxane also: dimethicone
  • methicone methylpolysiloxane
  • simethicone a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel
  • alginic acid may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxan
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:
  • Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:
  • alpha-hydroxy acids are additionally present in the preparation. It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains glycerol. It is further preferred if the preparation is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion. It is further preferred if substances having a particle diameter of 10 to 250 nm, preferably 10 to 100 nm, are selected as the coated titanium dioxide. It is further preferred if the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid. It is further preferred if the preparation has a pH of from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8.
  • the invention also encompasses the use of a preparation according to the invention against wrinkles and / or for increasing skin elasticity.
  • Preparations present as emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more emulsifiers.
  • O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:
  • alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -CH 2 -COOH nd n represent a number from 5 to 30, • the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances having HLB values of from 11 to 18, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of from 14.5 to 15, 5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated R and R groups. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or RG, or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
  • Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoloureth-12).
  • the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be sodium laureth-11-carboxylate.
  • alkyl ether sulfate sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprate, polyethylene glycol (20 ) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.
  • sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • O / W emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, cetearyl glucosides, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, stearic acid, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21.
  • W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C atoms, diglycerol saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkan
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl- monoisostearate, glycolmonocaprylat propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene, propylene glycol, sorbitan, Sorbitanmo- monolaurate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.
  • the emulsions may also contain hydrocolloids (also referred to as thickeners or gel formers) which can stabilize the preparations.
  • hydrocolloids also referred to as thickeners or gel formers
  • Further advantageous gelling agents are for example copolymers of Ci o - o 3-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof.
  • the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer”.
  • Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon).
  • Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations.
  • Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.
  • advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984.
  • Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are: magnesium D and / or aluminum silicates and, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • Ceilulosemischether also generally referred to as methylcelluloses, which in addition to a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxy xybutyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • copolymers of the polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer which are present under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 are available from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • preservatives preservatives, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to increase the foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feel of the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolyte, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, imidazolidinylurea, diazolidinylurea, benzoic acid and the like.
  • iodopropyl butylcarbamates for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker
  • parabens ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Octaquest from the company Octel, pentasodium-ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate, which is obtained, for example.
  • B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company.
  • Monsanto is available and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which inter alia from the Fa.
  • Bayer AG under the trade names lminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.
  • compositions are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants.
  • antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic applications antioxidants can be used.
  • water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins.
  • antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • active ingredients to be used in the context of the present invention are those which have a positive effect on the condition of the skin, in particular active ingredients for positively influencing the aging skin, which reduce the development of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles.
  • biochinones in particular ubiquinone (Q10) and ubiquinol, folic acid and its derivatives (in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (in particular Niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, camitine, biotin, isoflavone and its derivatives, lipoic acid, ginkgo extracts, hops and hop malt extracts.
  • agents that promote the restructuring of the connective tissue such as natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts D such.
  • B. soy and clover extracts D can be used very well in the formulations according to the invention.
  • the formulations are particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, Marine minerals) as well as osmolytes (such as inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)).
  • agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcone A, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular cyclooxygenase and leukotriene metabolism, especially the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxevase inhibitor protein, FLAP.
  • creatine and creatinine are suitable active ingredients to create and / or renew an (energy) depot and to activate the repair of various cellular structures, in particular the DNA.
  • modulators of pigmentation also proved to be advantageous.
  • agents that reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or reduce the occurrence of age spots and / or lighten existing age spots include tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid) and various extracts of licorice, arbutin, alpha-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), Bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, pyridoxamine, niacinamide, formulations according to the invention, which z. B.
  • known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and / or derivatives, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions, as they z.
  • flavone glycosides especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin
  • coenzyme Q10 coenzyme Q10
  • vitamin C and / or derivatives especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin
  • coenzyme Q10 coenzyme Q10
  • vitamin C and / or derivatives especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin
  • coenzyme Q10 coenzyme Q10
  • vitamin C and / or derivatives especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin
  • coenzyme Q10 coenzyme Q10
  • vitamin C and / or derivatives especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin
  • coenzyme Q10 coenzyme Q
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property, after application or spreading on the skin surface, to reduce the moisture release of the horny layer (also called transepidermal water jbs (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the horny layer ,
  • TEWL transepidermal water jbs
  • the skin's barrier function is normalized, the skin is noticeably refreshed and invigorated, and the skin appears smoother.
  • the deep-acting increase in moisture visibly reduces swelling and dark circles, stimulates the formation of skin's own lipids and stimulates the skin's natural anti-aging functions and the overall performance of the skin.
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, panthenol and urea.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention advantageously contains nonpolar, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane , Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are synthetic compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated , Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • cyclomethicone octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
  • silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • cyclomethicones amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, z.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are used as a various Abil wax types are available from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • compositions according to the present invention may also advantageously contain one or more of the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example to increase the water resistance and / or the SPF of the products: (a) siloxane elastomers comprising the units R 2 SiO and RSiO 1
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being such in that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or of the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) is in the range from 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic, and in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
  • the siloxane elastomer (s) are in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available. It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils of hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof which are liquid or pasty at room temperature.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, in particular the Gransil types available from Grant Industries Inc. GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE gel, PM-GeI, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the silicone elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , in each case based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of siloxane elastomers from the range of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Formulation, to choose.
  • Bioxylift was used as Pimpinella anis fruit extract.

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Abstract

Cosmetic preparation comprising (a) an aqueous fruit extract from anis (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from the company SILAB, St. Viance, France, and (b) one or more triazine photofilters.

Description

Beschreibung description
KOSMETISCHE ZUBEREITUNGEN MIT EINEM GEHALT AN EINEM WÄSSRIGEN ANISFRUCHTEXTRAKT UND TRIAZIN-LICHTFILTERNCOSMETIC PREPARATIONS CONTAINING AN ANTIOUS ANTICANTS EXTRACT AND TRIAZINE LIGHT FILTERS
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische Zubereitungen enthaltend einen wässrigen Frucht-Extrakt aus Anis (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), unter dem Handelsnamen Bioxilift bei der Gesellschaft SILAB, St. Viance, Frankreich, erhältlich und einen oder mehrere Triazin-Lichtfilter.The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and one or more triazine light filters.
Unter Kosmetik kann man alle Maßnahmen zusammenfassen, die aus ästhetischen Gründen Veränderungen an Haut und Haaren vornehmen oder zur Körperreinigung angewendet werden. Kosmetik bedeutet also, das Körperäußere zu pflegen, zu verbessern und zu verschönern, um auf sichtbare, fühlbare und riechbare Weise sowohl den Mitmenschen als auch sich selbst zu gefallen. Schon vor Jahrtausenden wurdeUnder cosmetics, one can summarize all measures that make changes to the skin and hair for aesthetic reasons or to cleanse the body. Cosmetics, then, means to care for, improve and beautify the outer body in order to please the fellow human being as well as oneself in a visible, tangible and smelly way. Millennia ago
Kosmetik vom Menschen zu diesem Zweck angewandt. Man färbte Lippen und Gesicht, salbte sich mit wertvollen Ölen und badete in duftendem Wasser.Cosmetics applied by humans for this purpose. One colored lips and face, anointed itself with valuable oils and bathed in fragrant water.
Schon seit langem befindet sich die Fachwelt auf der Suche nach kosmetischen Zubereitungen, die gegen Falten oder Cellulite wirksam sind.The experts have long been searching for cosmetic preparations that are effective against wrinkles or cellulite.
Eine für den Verbraucher sehr wesentliche, dabei aber nur schwer quantitativ meßbare Eigenschaft kosmetischer Produkte ist ein bestimmtes belebendes und/oder glattes Hautgefühl sowie die Geschmeidigkeit der Haut nach seiner Anwendung.A very important for the consumer, but it is difficult to quantitatively measurable property of cosmetic products is a certain invigorating and / or smooth skin feel and the suppleness of the skin after its application.
Eine rosige Hautfarbe (wie sie beispielsweise durch den Aufenthalt an der frischen Luft erhältlich ist) wird von den Verbraucherinnen und Verbrauchern als gesund und dementsprechend wünschenswert angesehen, wohingegen ein blasser Teint in der Regel nicht so erwünscht ist. Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es, hautpflegende Zubereitungen und Zubereitungen zur Pflege der auf natürliche Weise gealterten Haut zur Verfügung zu stellen, wobei die Zubereitungen das Körperäußere pflegen und verschönern und gleichzeitig Hautfalten reduzieren und Cellulites beseitigen sollen..A rosy skin color (such as is available by staying in the open air) is considered by consumers to be healthy and therefore desirable, whereas a pale complexion is generally not as desirable. It is an object of the present invention to provide skincare preparations and preparations for the care of naturally aged skin, wherein the preparations are intended to nourish and beautify the external appearance of the body and at the same time reduce wrinkles and eliminate cellulites.
Es hat sich überraschenderweise herausgestellt dass eine kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend (a) einen wässrigen Frucht-Extrakt aus Anis (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), unter dem Handelsnamen Bioxilift bei der Gesellschaft SILAB, St. Viance, Frankreich, erhältlich-und (b) einen oder mehrere Triazin-Lichtfilter den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhilft. Eine solche Zubereitung hat den wesentlichen Vorteil gegenüber Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik, dass Hautporen verfeinert werden und ein insgesamt gesünderes Hautbild erreicht wird.It has surprisingly been found that a cosmetic preparation containing (a) an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and (b) one or more several triazine light filters helps to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art. Such a preparation has the significant advantage over prior art formulations that skin pores are refined and an overall healthier skin appearance is achieved.
Durch die Kombination von Anisfruchtextrakten mit Triazinen wird eine besondere Photostabilisierung erreicht, so dass die Wirksamkeit der Extrakte über einen längeren Zeitraum erhalten bleibt und keine gegenteiligen Wirkungen durch Abbauprodukte hervorgerufen werden.The combination of aniseed extracts with triazines achieves a special photostabilization, so that the efficacy of the extracts is maintained over a longer period of time and no adverse effects are caused by degradation products.
Darüber hinaus hat eine solche Zubereitung folgende weitere Vorteile: Sie fördert den natürlichen Regenerationsprozeß und Zellstoffwechsel der Haut, aktiviert hauteigene Schutzsysteme und macht die Haut damit widerstandsfähiger gegen Stressfaktoren, wirkt gegen (erste) Zeichen der Hautalterung, indem Linien und Mimikfältchen reduziert, Poren verfeinert und das Hautbild sichtbar gestrafft und geglättet wird, aktiviert tiefenwirksam die hauteigene Produktion von Bestandteilen des Bindegewebes wie Kollagenen, elastischen Fasern und Proteoglykanen (u.a. Hyaluronsäuren), wirkt der Bildung neuer Falten dadurch nachhaltig entgegen, dass Energiedepots/-reserven aufgefüllt und die HauWZellregeneration verbessert wird, trägt zur Verjüngung der inneren Hautstruktur durch Verbesserung der epidermal-dermalen Verzahnung (Papillen) bei, wodurch die Gesichts- und Hautkonturen verfeinert und gestrafft werden, festigt die Haut fühlbar und sichtbar und verbessert die Hautelastizität.In addition, such preparation has the following additional benefits: It promotes the natural regeneration process and cell metabolism of the skin, activates skin protection systems and makes the skin more resistant to stressors, counteracts (first) signs of aging, reducing lines and facial lines, refining pores and the skin is visibly tightened and smoothed, deeply activates the skin's own production of components of the connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (hyaluronic acids), effectively counteracts the formation of new wrinkles, replenishes energy depots / reserves and improves skin cell regeneration, Contributes to the rejuvenation of the inner skin structure by improving the epidermal-dermal (papillae), which refines and tones the facial and skin contours, makes the skin tangible and visible and improves skin elasticity.
Überraschenderweise wird durch die Kombination von Anisfruchtextrakten mit Triazinen eine verbesserte Wirkung gegen spezielle Arten von Körperfalten erzielt, insbesondere auch gegen Mimikfalten und Lachfalten. Die Tiefe, die Breite und das Volumen dieser Faltenarten werden in kürzester reduziert, so dass die Haut in ihrem Aussehen stark verjüngt wird.Surprisingly, the combination of aniseed fruit extracts with triazines achieves an improved action against specific types of body wrinkles, in particular against facial expressions and laugh lines. The depth, the width and the volume of this Fold types are reduced in the shortest time, so that the skin is greatly rejuvenated in its appearance.
Bei Bioxilift handelt es sich um einen wässrigen Frucht-Extrakt aus Anis (Pimpinella anis fruit extract). Der Extrakt weist eine bernsteinartige Farbe auf und hat einen charakteristischen Anis-Geruch.Bioxilift is an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract). The extract has an amber-like color and has a characteristic anise smell.
Der Extrakt ist reich an anorganischen Mineralien wie Natrium- und Magnesium-Ionen, besonders aber an Kalium-Ionen. Die aufgenommenen Spektren liefern keinen Anhaltspunkt für die Identifizierung einzelner Leitstrukturen bzw. Wirkprinzipien. Vielmehr stellen die Spektren „typische DPflanzenextrakt-Spektren dar.The extract is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, but especially in potassium ions. The recorded spectra provide no clue for the identification of individual lead structures or principles of action. Rather, the spectra represent "typical DP plant extract spectra.
Die spezifische Zusammensetzung lautet:The specific composition is:
Dry matter: 40-60 g/l Mineral ashes 11-18 g/l Total protein 12-20 g/l pH 4,5-5,5Dry matter: 40-60 g / l Mineral ashes 11-18 g / l Total protein 12-20 g / l pH 4.5-5.5
Der Extrakt ist konserviert mit Butylenglycol 0.36% und Parabenen 0.14% und ist in Ethanol bis zu einem Verhältnis von 40/60 Ethanol/Wasser (v/v) löslich.The extract is preserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and is soluble in ethanol up to a ratio of 40/60 ethanol / water (v / v).
Bei der Herstellung werden die Anis-Früchte in Wasser soiubilisiert und enzymatisch hydrolysiert. Das Verhältnis von Rohmaterial zu Extrakt beträgt 1A Lösliche und unlösliche Phasen werden getrennt und anschließend filtriert bzw. danach steril filtriert. Bioxilift wird von der Gesellschaft SILAB, Frankreich angeboten.During production, the aniseed fruits are soiubilized in water and enzymatically hydrolyzed. The ratio of raw material to extract is 1 A. Soluble and insoluble phases are separated and subsequently filtered or subsequently sterile filtered. Bioxilift is offered by the company SILAB, France.
Erfindungsgemäße Triazin-Lichtfilter sind Benzoxazol-Derivate, wie z. B. das 2,4-bis-[5- 1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1 ,3,5-triazin mit der CAS Nr. 288254-16-0, welches bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb® K2A erhältlich ist sowie Triazinderivate, wie z. B. 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl- hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Inventive triazine light filters are benzoxazole derivatives, such as. As the 2,4-bis [5- 1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3,5-triazine with the CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A, as well as triazine derivatives, such as, e.g. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-
Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist; Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVA- SORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist; 4,4I,4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-ben- zoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)]- 1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird; 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)- 1 ,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725-22-6).Ethylhexyloxylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is sold under the trade name UVA- SORB HEB is available from Sigma 3V; 4.4 I, 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl), also: 2,4,6-tris [ anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150; 2- [4,6-Bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).
Die Liste der genannten UV-Filter, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of said UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
Die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen wird aus dem Bereich von 0,1 bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-% D jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen D gewählt, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen.The total amount of the filter substances is from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-% D in each case based on the total weight of the preparations D is chosen to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn die Zubereitung zusätzlich anorganische Pigmente, bevorzugt gecoatetes Titandioxid, enthält.It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.
Anorganische Pigmente im Sinne der Erfindung sind Metalloxide und/oder andere in Wasser schwerlösliche oder unlösliche Metallverbindungen, insbesondere Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI2O3), Cers (z. B. Ce2O3), Mischoxide der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden sowie das Sulfat des Bariums (BaSO4).Inorganic pigments within the meaning of the invention are metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ) , Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and also the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
Die Pigmente können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wäßriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Diesen Vordispersionen können vorteilhaft Dispergierhilfsmittel und/oder Solubilisationsver- mittler zugesetzt sein.For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilization agents may advantageously be added to these predispersions.
Die Pigmente können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft oberflächlich behandelt („gecoatetc) sein, wobei beispielsweise ein hydrophiler, amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophilen und/oder hydrophoben anorganischen und/oder organischen Schicht verse- hen werden. Die verschiedenen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Wasser enthalten. Anorganische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus Aluminiumoxid (AI2O3), Aluminiumhydroxid AI(OH)3, bzw. Aluminiumoxidhydrat (auch: Alumina, CAS-Nr.: 1333- 84-2), Natriumhexametaphosphat (NaPO3)6, Natriummetaphosphat (NaPO3),-,, Siliciumdioxid (SiO2) (auch: Silica, CAS-Nr.: 7631-86-9), oder Eisenoxid (Fe2O3). Diese anorganischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit organischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen. Organische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus pflanzlichem oder tierischem Aluminiumstearat, pflanzlicher oder tierischer Stearinsäure, Laurinsäure, Dimethylpolysiloxan (auch: Dimethicone), Methylpolysiloxan (Methicone), Simethicone (einem Gemisch aus Dimethylpolysiloxan mit einer durchschnittlichen Kettenlänge von 200 bis 350 Dimethylsiloxan-Einheiten und Silicagel) oder Alginsäure.According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which case, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained. This surface treatment may consist in the fact that the pigments are provided according to methods known per se with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. be. The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention. Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ). 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ), -, silica (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ). These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials. Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
Geeignete Titandioxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Titandioxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:
Figure imgf000006_0001
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Zinkoxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Zinkoxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:
Figure imgf000006_0001
Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:
Figure imgf000007_0001
Figure imgf000007_0001
Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn in der Zubereitung zusätzlich alpha-Hydroxysäuren enthalten sind. Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn in der Zubereitung zusätzlich Glycerin enthalten ist. Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn die Zubereitung eine Emulsion, bevorzugt eine O/W-Emulsion oder eine O/W-Hydrodispersion, darstellt. Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn als gecoatetes Titandioxid Substanzen mit einem Partikeldurchmesser von 10-250 nm, bevorzugt 10-100 nm, gewählt werden. Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn die alpha- Hydroxysäure Milchsäure, Zitronensäure, Apfelsäure oder Weinsäure ist. Weiter ist es bevorzugt, wenn die Zubereitung einen pH-Wert von 3 bis 10, bevorzugt von 4 bis 8, aufweist.It is further preferred if alpha-hydroxy acids are additionally present in the preparation. It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains glycerol. It is further preferred if the preparation is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion. It is further preferred if substances having a particle diameter of 10 to 250 nm, preferably 10 to 100 nm, are selected as the coated titanium dioxide. It is further preferred if the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid. It is further preferred if the preparation has a pH of from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8.
Die Erfindung umfasst auch die Verwendung einer erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung gegen Falten und/oder zur Steigerung der Hautelastizität.The invention also encompasses the use of a preparation according to the invention against wrinkles and / or for increasing skin elasticity.
Als Emulsionen vorliegende Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren. O/W-Emulgatoren können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten bzw. polypropoxylierten bzw. poly- ethoxylierten und polypropoxylierten Produkte, z. B.:Preparations present as emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more emulsifiers. For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:
• der Fettalkoholethoxylate• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,The ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH2-CH2-O-)n-RQThe polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -RQ
• der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH2-CH2-O-)n -H, • der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH2-CH2-O-)n -RO• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -H, • the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -RO
• der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH2-CH2-O-)n -C(O)-Rg• the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -C (O) -Rg
• der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester • der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester • der CholesterinethoxylateThe polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester, the ethoxylated sorbitan ester • the cholesterol ethoxylates
• der ethoxylierten Triglyceride• the ethoxylated triglycerides
• der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH2-CH2-O-)n-CH2-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen, • der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -CH 2 -COOH nd n represent a number from 5 to 30, • the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH2-CH2-O-)n-SO3-HThe alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -SO 3 -H
• der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-O-)n-H,The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -H,
• der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-O-)n-RpThe polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -Rp
• der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-O-)n-R0• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -R0
• der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-O-)n-C(O)-R0• the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -C (O) -RO
• der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-O-)π-H,The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) π -H,
• der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester• the polypropylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester
• der propoxylierten Sorbitanester • der Cholesterinpropoxylate• the propoxylated sorbitan ester • the cholesterol propoxylates
• der propoxylierten Triglyceride• the propoxylated triglycerides
• der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH2-CH(CH3)O-)n-CH2-COOH• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) O-) n -CH 2 -COOH
• der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-O-)n-SO3-HThe alkyl ether sulfates or the acids based on these sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -SO 3 -H
• der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-Xn-Ym-H,The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX n -Y m -H,
• der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-Xn-Ym-R0 • der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-Xn-Ym-R0• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX n -Y m -RO • the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X n -Y m -RO
• der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-Xn- Ym-H,. Erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft werden die eingesetzten polyethoxylierten bzw. polypropoxylierten bzw. polyethoxylierten und polypropoxylierten O/W-Emulgatoren gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit HLB-Werten von 11 bis 18, ganz besonders vorteilhaft mit mit HLB-Werten von 14,5 bis 15,5, sofern die O/W-Emulgatoren gesättigte Reste R und Rüaufweisen. Weisen die O/W-Emulgatoren ungesättigte Reste R und/oder RG auf, oder liegen Isoalkylderivate vor, so kann der bevorzugte HLB-Wert solcher Emulgatoren auch niedriger oder darüber liegen.• the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X n - Y m -H ,. According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances having HLB values of from 11 to 18, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of from 14.5 to 15, 5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated R and R groups. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or RG, or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.
Es ist von Vorteil, die Fettalkoholethoxylate aus der Gruppe der ethoxylierten Stearylal- kohole, Cetylalkohole, Cetylstearylalkohole (Cetearylalkohole) zu wählen. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind:It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
Polyethylenglycol(13)stearylether (Steareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)stearylether (Stea- reth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)stearylether (Steareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)stea- rylether (Steareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)stearylether (Steareth-17), Polyethylenglycol- (18)stearylether (Steareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)stearylether (Steareth-19), Polyethy- lenglycol(20)stearylether (Steareth-20),Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol ( 17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylenglycol(12)isostearylether (lsosteareth-12), Polyethylenglycol(13)isostearyl- ether (lsosteareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)isostearylether (lsosteareth-14), Polyethylen- glycol(15)isostearylether (lsosteareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)isostearylether (Iso- steareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)isostearylether (lsosteareth-17), Polyethylenglycol- (18)isostearylether (lsosteareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)isostearylether (lsosteareth-19- ), Polyethylenglycol(20)isostearylether (lsosteareth-20),Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol ( 16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19-), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylenglycol(13)cetylether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)cetylether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)cetylether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)cetylether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)cetylether (Ceteth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)cetylether (Ceteth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)cetylether (Ceteth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)cetylether (Ceteth-20),Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylenglycol(13)isocetylether (lsoceteth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)isocetylether (Iso- ceteth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)isocetylether (lsoceteth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)- isocetylether (lsoceteth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)isocetylether (lsoceteth-17), Polyethy- lenglycol(18)isocetylether (lsoceteth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)isocetylether (Isoceteth- 19), Po!yethylenglycol(20)isocetylether (lsoceteth-20),Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 ) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethy- ethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20)
Polyethylenglycol(12)oleylether (Oleth-12), Polyethylenglycol(13)oleylether (Oleth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)oleylether (Oleth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)oleylether (Oleth-15),Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),
Polyethylenglycol(12)laurylether (Laureth-12), Polyethylenglycol(12)isolaurylether (Isolau- reth-12).Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoloureth-12).
Polyethylenglycol(13)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)cetylstearyl- ether (Ceteareth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-15), Polyethylen- glycol(16)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-18), Polyethylenglycol- (19)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth- 20),Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol ( 17) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20),
Es ist ferner von Vorteil, die Fettsäureethoxylate aus folgender Gruppe zu wählen:It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylenglycol(20)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(21 )stearat, Polyethylenglycol(22)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(23)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(24)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(25)stearat,Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylenglycol(12)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(13)isostearat, Poiyethylenglycol(14)- isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(15)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(16)isostearat, Polyethylen- glycol(17)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(18)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(19)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(21)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(22)- isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(23)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(24)isostearat, Polyethylen- glycol(25)isostearat,Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylenglycol(12)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(13)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(14)oleat, PoIy- ethylenglycol(15)oleat, Polyethyienglycol(16)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(17)oleat, Polyethy- lenglycol(18)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(19)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(20)oleatPolyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate
Als ethoxylierte Alkylethercarbonsäure bzw. deren Salz kann vorteilhaft das Natriumlau- reth-11-carboxylat verwendet werden. Als Alkylethersulfat kann Natrium Laureth 1-4 sulfat vorteilhaft verwendet werden.The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be sodium laureth-11-carboxylate. As the alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.
Als ethoxyliertes Cholesterinderivat kann vorteilhaft Polyethylenglycol(30)Cholesteryl- ether verwendet werden. Auch Polyethylenglycol(25)Sojasterol hat sich bewährt.Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.
Als ethoxylierte Triglyceride können vorteilhaft die Polyethylenglycol(60) Evening Primrose Glycerides verwendet werden (Evening Primrose = Nachtkerze)As ethoxylated triglycerides, the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides can advantageously be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)
Weiterhin ist von Vorteil, die Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester aus der Gruppe Po- lyethylenglycol(20)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(21 )glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol- (22)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(23)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(6)glycerylcap- rat/caprinat, Polyethylenglycol(20)glyceryloleat, Polyethylenglycol(20)glycerylisostearat, Polyethylenglycol(18)glyceryloleat/cocoat zu wählen.It is furthermore advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprate, polyethylene glycol (20 ) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.
Es ist ebenfalls günstig, die Sorbitanester aus der Gruppe Polyethylenglycol(20)sor- bitanmonolaurat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmonostearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sor- bitanmonoisostearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmonopalmitat, Polyethylenglycol(20)- sorbitanmonooleat zu wählen.It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
Besonders bevorzugte O/W Emulgatoren sind Glycerylstearatcitrat, Polyglyceryl-3- methylglucosedistearat, Cetearylglucoside, PEG-40-Steartat, PEG-100-Stearat, Stearinsäure, Ceteareth-20 und Steareth-21.Particularly preferred O / W emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, cetearyl glucosides, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, stearic acid, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21.
Als vorteilhafte W/O-Emulgatoren können eingesetzt werden: Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C- Atomen, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen sowie Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen.As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C atoms, diglycerol saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 - 18 C atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms.
Insbesondere vorteilhafte W/O-Emulgatoren sind Glycerylmonostearat, Glycerylmonoiso- stearat, Glycerylmonomyristat, Glycerylmonooleat, Diglycerylmonostearat, Diglyceryl- monoisostearat, Propylenglycolmonostearat, Propylenglycolmonoisostearat, Propylen- glycolmonocaprylat, Propylenglycolmonolaurat, Sorbitanmonoisostearat, Sorbitanmo- nolaurat, Sorbitanmonocaprylat, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, Saccharosedistearat, Cetyl- alkohol, Stearylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Isobehenylalkohol, Selachyl- alkohol, Chimylalkohol, Polyethylenglycol(2)stearylether (Steareth-2), Glycerylmono- laurat, Glycerylmonocaprinat, Glycerylmonocaprylat.Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl- monoisostearate, glycolmonocaprylat propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene, propylene glycol, sorbitan, Sorbitanmo- monolaurate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.
Ebenfalls vorteilhaft können die Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Hydrokolloide (auch als Verdicker oder Gelbildner bezeichnet) enthalten, die die Zubereitungen stabilisieren können.Likewise advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the emulsions may also contain hydrocolloids (also referred to as thickeners or gel formers) which can stabilize the preparations.
Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Hydrokolloide werden Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant, Gummi arabicum, Alginate, Xanthan Gum, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrot- baumkemmehl, Stärke, Dextrine, Celluloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und Cpropyl-cellulose- derivate, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide, Polykieselsäuren, Tonmineralien, Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren eingesetzt.Agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, xanthan gum, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and cpropyl cellulose derivatives, vinyl polymers, Polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas used.
Weitere Vorteilhafte Gelbildner sind beispielsweise Copolymere aus CiO-3o-Alkylacrylaten und einem oder mehreren Monomeren der Acrylsäure, der Methacrylsäure oder deren Ester. Die INCI-Bezeichnung für solche Verbindungen ist „Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerD Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind die Pemulen® Typen TR 1, TR 2 und TRZ von der Fa. Goodrich (Noveon).Further advantageous gelling agents are for example copolymers of Ci o - o 3-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon).
Auch Carbopole sind vorteilhafte Gelbildner für derartige Zubereitungen. Carbopole sind Polymere der Acrylsäure, insbesondere auch Acrylat-Alkylacrylat-Copolymere. Vorteilhafte Carbopole sind beispielsweise die Typen 980, 981 , 984 1342, 1382, 2984 und 5984. ebenso die ETD-Typen 2001 , 2020, 2050 und Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM/MA Decadien Crosspolymer (Handelsname Stabileze 06), Polyglycerylmethacrylat sowie Polyacrylamid, ammonium dimethyltauramide/vinylformamide copolymer, copolymers/crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyltaurate, polyacryloyl- dimethyltauramide, polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof.Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Examples of advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Likewise the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM / MA decadiene crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide, ammonium dimethyltauramide / vinylformamide copolymer, copolymer / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyltaurate, polyacryloyl-dimethyltauramide, polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymer thereof.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Hydrokolloide sind : MagnesiumD und/oder Aluminiumsilikate sowie beispielsweise Methylcellulosen, als welche die Methylether der Cellulose bezeichnet werden. Sie zeichnen sich durch die folgende Strukturformel ausHydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are: magnesium D and / or aluminum silicates and, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
Figure imgf000013_0001
in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
Insbesondere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die im allgemeinen ebenfalls als Methylcellulosen bezeichneten Ceilulosemischether, die neben einem dominierenden Gehalt an Methyl- zusätzlich 2-Hydroxyethyl-, 2-Hydroxypropyl- oder 2-Hydro- xybutyl-Gruppen enthalten. Besonders bevorzugt sind (Hydroxypropyl)methylcellulosen, beispielsweise die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Methocel E4M bei der Dow Chemical Comp, erhältlichen.Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the Ceilulosemischether also generally referred to as methylcelluloses, which in addition to a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxy xybutyl groups. Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
Um die Wasserfestigkeit kosmetischer und dermatologischer Lichtschutzzubereitungen zu verbessern, kann es von Vorteil sein, Filmbildner in die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen einzuarbeiten. Nach dem Stand der Technik eignen sich hierzu z. B. Polyurethane (z. B. die Avalure® -Typen von Goodrich), Dimethicone Co- polyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® von der Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP/VA (VA = Vinylacetat) Copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder der BASF), C2O-4o Carbonsäure mit Polyethylen (Performacid 350 von der Fa. New Phase Technologies) sowie Filmbildner aus der Gruppe der Polymere auf Basis von Polyvinylpyrrolidon (PVP):In order to improve the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen preparations, it may be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations. According to the prior art, this z. Polyurethanes (eg the Avalure® grades from Goodrich), dimethicone co-polyol polyacrylates (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF ), C 2O - 4 o carboxylic acid with polyethylene (Performacid 350 from New Phase Technologies) and film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP):
Figure imgf000013_0002
Figure imgf000013_0002
Besonders bevorzugt werden Copolymere des Polyvinylpyrrolidons eingesetzt, beispielsweise das PVP Hexadecen Copolymer und das PVP Eicosen Copolymer, welche unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Antaron V216 und Antaron V220 bei der GAF Chemicals Cooperation erhältlich sind, sowie das Tricontayl PVP und dergleichen mehr.Particular preference is given to using copolymers of the polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer which are present under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 are available from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.
Nachteilig ist jedoch für derartige Zubereitungen, welche Filmbildner in einer wirksamen (d. h. die Wasserfestigkeit steigernden) Konzentration enthalten, daß sie bei der Anwendung auf der Haut einen klebrigen und schmierigen Eindruck hinterlassen. Neben dem Einfluß der Grundlage ist auch die Bindungsfähigkeit des UV-Filters in oder auf der Haut von großer Bedeutung für die Wasserfestigkeit der Formulierung. Es ist verständlich, daß öllösliche UV-Filter besser an die (lipophile) Oberfläche der Haut ge- bunden werden bzw. schwerer von dieser abwaschbar sind als wasserlösliche UV-Filter.However, it is disadvantageous for such formulations which contain film formers in an effective (that is to say increase the water resistance) concentration that they leave a sticky and greasy impression when applied to the skin. In addition to the influence of the base, the binding ability of the UV filter in or on the skin is of great importance for the water resistance of the formulation. It is understandable that oil-soluble UV filters are better bound to the (lipophilic) surface of the skin or are more difficult to wash off from it than water-soluble UV filters.
Die kosmetischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Konservierungshelfer, Komplexbildner, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Steigern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Füllstoffe, die das Hautgefühl verbessern, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyt^, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. As preservatives, preservatives, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to increase the foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feel of the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolyte, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Vorteilhafte Konservierungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise lodopropylbutylcarbamate (z. B. die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S von der Fa. Lonza erhältlichen und/oder Dekaben LMB von Jan Dekker), Parabene (d. h. p-Hydroxybenzoesäurealky!ester, wie Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- und/oder Butylparaben), Phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, Imidazolidinylhamstoff, Diazolidinylharnstoff, Benzoesäure und dergleichen mehr.Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, imidazolidinylurea, diazolidinylurea, benzoic acid and the like.
Vorteilhafte Komplexbildner im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise EDTA, [S,S]-Ethylendiamindisuccinat (EDDS), welches beispielsweise unter der Handels- bezeichnung Octaquest von der Fa. Octel erhältlich ist, Pentanatrium-Ethylendiamin- tetramethylenphosphonat, welches z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Dequest 2046 von der Fa. Monsanto erhältlich ist und/oder Iminodibersteinsäure, welche u. a. von der Fa. Bayer AG unter den Handelsnamen lminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (ca. 30% ige Lösung) und Bay- pure CX 100 fest erhältlich ist.Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Octaquest from the company Octel, pentasodium-ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate, which is obtained, for example. B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company. Monsanto is available and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which inter alia from the Fa. Bayer AG under the trade names lminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.
Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen werden ferner erhalten, wenn als Zusatz- oder Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden. Erfindungsgemäß enthalten die Zubereitungen vorteilhaft eines oder mehrere Antioxidantien. Als günstige, aber dennoch fakultativ zu verwendende Antioxidantien können alle für kosmetische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As favorable, but nevertheless optional to be used antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic applications antioxidants can be used.
Besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können wasserlösliche Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden, wie beispielsweise Vitamine.Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins.
Bevorzugte Antioxidantien sind ferner Vitamin C und dessen Derivate, Vitamin E und dessen Derivate sowie Vitamin A und dessen Derivate.Further preferred antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation ,
Weitere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzende Wirkstoffe sind solche, die den Zustand der Haut positiv beeinflussen, wie insbesondere Wirkstoffe zur positiven Beeinflussung der Altershaut, die die Entstehung von Falten oder auch bestehende Falten vermindern. Vorteilhaft sind insbesondere Biochinone, insbesondere Ubichinon (Q10) und Ubichinol, Folsäure und ihre Derivate (insbesondere Tetrahydrofolsäure und Dihydrofolsäure), Niacin und seine Derivate (insbesondere Niacinamid), Kreatin und Kreatinin, Camitin, Biotin, Isoflavon und dessen Derivate, Liponsäure, Ginkgo-Extrakte, Hopfen- und Hopfen-Malz-Extrakte. Auch Mittel, die die Restrukturierung des Bindegewebes fördern, wie natürliche und/oder synthetische Isoflavonoide sowie Isoflavonoid-haltige Pflanzenextrakte D wie z. B. Soja- und Klee- Extrakte D können in den erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen sehr gut verwendet werden. Auch zeigt sich, daß sich die Formulierungen in besonderer Weise eignen, Wirkstoffe zur Unterstützung der Hautfunktionen bei trockener Haut (wie beispielsweise Vitamin C, Biotin, Carnitin, Propionsäure, Grüntee-Extrakte, Eucalyptusöl, Harnstoff und Mineralsalze (wie z. B. NaCI, Meeresmineralien) sowie Osmolyte (wie z. B. Inositol, Betain, quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen)) zu verwenden. In ähnlicher Weise erwies sich die Einarbeitung von Wirkstoffen zur Linderung bzw. positiven Beeinflussung von irritativen Hautzuständen, sei es bei empfindlicher Haut im allgemeinen oder bei durch Noxen gereizter Haut (UV-Licht, Chemikalien), als vorteilhaft. Hier sind Wirkstoffe zu nennen wie Sericoside, verschiedene Extrakte des Süßholzes, Licochalcone, insbesondere Licochalcon A, Dexpanthenol, Inhibitoren des Prostaglandinstoffwechsels, insbesondere der Cyclooxygenase und des Leukotrienstoffwechsels, insbesondere der 5- Lipoxyaenase, aber auch des 5-Lipoxvgenase Inhibitor Proteins, FLAP. Insbesondere Kreatin und Kreatinin sind geeignete Wirkstoffe, um ein (Energie-) Depot anzulegen und/oder zu erneuern sowie die Reparatur (Repair) unterschiedlicher zellulärer Strukturen, insbesondere der DNA zu aktivieren. Auch erwies sich die Einarbeitung von Modulatoren der Pigmentierung als vorteilhaft. Hier sind Wirkstoffe zu nennen, die die Pigmentierung der Haut vermindern und so zu einer kosmetisch gewünschten Aufhellung der Haut führen und/oder das Auftreten von Altersflecken reduzieren und/oder bestehende Altersflecken aufhellen. Beispielhaft sei erwähnt Tyrosinsulfat, Dioic acid (8- Hexadecen-1 ,16-dicarbonsäure) sowie verschiedene Extrakte des Süßholzes, Arbutin, Alpha-Arbutin, Deoxyarbutin, Fruchtsäuren, insbesondere Alpha-Hydroxy-Säuren (AHAs), Bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolsäure, Ascorbinsäure, Pyridoxamin, Niacinamid, Erfindungsgemäße Rezepturen, welche z. B. bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavon- glycoside (insbesondere α-Glycosylrutin), Coenzym Q10, Vitamin C und/oder Derivate, Vitamin E und/oder Derivate und dergleichen enthalten, eignen sich insbesondere vorteilhaft zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung auftreten (wie beispielsweise Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen, Juckreiz, verminderte Rückfettung (z. B. nach dem Waschen), sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis), Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten und Fältchen, lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken), vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit) und dergleichen). Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sie sich gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.Further active ingredients to be used in the context of the present invention are those which have a positive effect on the condition of the skin, in particular active ingredients for positively influencing the aging skin, which reduce the development of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles. Particularly advantageous are biochinones, in particular ubiquinone (Q10) and ubiquinol, folic acid and its derivatives (in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (in particular Niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, camitine, biotin, isoflavone and its derivatives, lipoic acid, ginkgo extracts, hops and hop malt extracts. Also agents that promote the restructuring of the connective tissue, such as natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts D such. B. soy and clover extracts D can be used very well in the formulations according to the invention. It is also found that the formulations are particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, Marine minerals) as well as osmolytes (such as inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)). Similarly, the incorporation of drugs to alleviate or positively affect irritative skin conditions, whether sensitive skin in general or noxa-irritated skin (UV light, chemicals), has been found to be beneficial. Here are agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcone A, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular cyclooxygenase and leukotriene metabolism, especially the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxevase inhibitor protein, FLAP. In particular, creatine and creatinine are suitable active ingredients to create and / or renew an (energy) depot and to activate the repair of various cellular structures, in particular the DNA. The incorporation of modulators of pigmentation also proved to be advantageous. Here are agents that reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or reduce the occurrence of age spots and / or lighten existing age spots. Examples include tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid) and various extracts of licorice, arbutin, alpha-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), Bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, pyridoxamine, niacinamide, formulations according to the invention, which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and / or derivatives, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions, as they z. As skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles, itching, reduced refatting (eg., After washing), visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis), Flaccidity and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, local hyper-, hypo and pigmentation defects (e.g., age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg, cracking), and the like). Furthermore, they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
Als Moisturizer werden Stoffe oder Stoffgemische bezeichnet, welche kosmetischen Zubereitungen die Eigenschaft verleihen, nach dem Auftragen bzw. Verteilen auf der Hautoberfläche die Feuchtigkeitsabgabe der Hornschicht (auch transepidermal water jbss (TEWL) genannt) zu reduzieren und/oder die Hydratation der Hornschicht positiv zu beeinflussen.Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property, after application or spreading on the skin surface, to reduce the moisture release of the horny layer (also called transepidermal water jbs (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the horny layer ,
Insgesamt wird die hauteigene Barrierefunktion normalisiert, die Haut wird spürbar erfrischt und belebt, und die Haut erscheint glatter. Durch die tiefenwirksame Feuchtigkeitszunahme werden Schwellungen und Augenringe sichtbar reduziert, die Bildung hauteigener Lipide wird stimuliert und die natürlichen anti-aging Funktionen der Haut sowie die Leistungsfähigkeit der Haut insgesamt werden stimuliert.Overall, the skin's barrier function is normalized, the skin is noticeably refreshed and invigorated, and the skin appears smoother. The deep-acting increase in moisture visibly reduces swelling and dark circles, stimulates the formation of skin's own lipids and stimulates the skin's natural anti-aging functions and the overall performance of the skin.
Vorteilhafte Moisturizer im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Glyce- rin, Milchsäure und/oder Lactate, insbesondere Natriumlactat, Butylenglykol, Propylen- glykol, Biosaccaride Gum-1 , Glycine Soja, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure, Panthenol und Harnstoff.Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, panthenol and urea.
Die Ölphase der Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung enthält vorteilhaft unpolare enthalten, beispielsweise solche, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, insbesondere Mineralöl, Vaseline (Petrolatum), Paraffinöl, Squalan, Polyolefine, hydrogenierte Polyisobutene und Isohexadecan. Unter den Polyolefinen sind Polydecene die bevorzugten Substanzen.The oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention advantageously contains nonpolar, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane , Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn der Gehalt an polaren Ölen mit einer Polarität von kleiner als 20 mN/m (Grenzflächenspannung gegen Wasser) kleiner als 5 Gew.-% D bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung D gewählt wird. Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölpha- senkomponenten zu verwenden.It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, if the content of polar oils with a polarity of less than 20 mN / m (interfacial tension against water) is less than 5 wt .-% D based on the total weight of the preparation D is selected. Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
Silikonöle sind synthetische Verbindungen, in denen Silicium-Atome über Sauerstoff- Atome ketten- und/oder netzartig verknüpft und die restlichen Valenzen des Siliciums durch Kohlenwasserstoff-Reste (meist Methyl-, seltener Ethyl-, Propyl-, Phenyl-Gruppen u. a.) abgesättigt sind. Systematisch werden die Silikonöle als Polyorganosiloxane bezeichnet. Die methylsubstituierten Polyorganosiloxane, welche die mengenmäßig bedeutendsten Verbindungen dieser Gruppe darstellen und sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnenSilicone oils are synthetic compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated , Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula
Figure imgf000018_0001
werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.
Figure imgf000018_0001
are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es, Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) als Silikonöl zu verwenden. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydime- thylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan).It is advantageous according to the invention to use cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) as silicone oil. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Besonders vorteilhafte Polyorganosiloxane im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Dimethylpolysiloxane [Poly(dimethylsiloxan)], welche beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Abil 10 bis 10 000 bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Fer- ner vorteilhaft sind Phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Tri- methicone), cyclische Silikone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan bzw. Decamethylcyclopenta- siloxan), welche nach INCI auch als Cyclomethicone bezeichnet werden, aminomodifi- zierte Silikone (INCI: Amodimethicone) und Silikonwachse, z. B. Polysiloxan-Polyalkylen- Copolymere (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone und Cetyl Dimethicone) und Dialkoxydimethyl- polysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone und Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), welche als ver- schiedene Abil-Wax-Typen bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Cetyldimethicon, Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsilo- xan).Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, z. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are used as a various Abil wax types are available from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Die Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung können ferner vorteilhaft eine oder mehrere Substanzen aus der folgenden Gruppe der Siloxanelastomere enthalten, beispielsweise um die Wasserfestigkeit und/oder den Lichtschutzfaktor der Produkte zu steigern: (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R2SiO und RSiO1|5 und/oder R3SiO0i5 und/oder SiO2 enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C1-24-Al- kyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder ToIyI), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R2SiO zu RSiO1 5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;The compositions according to the present invention may also advantageously contain one or more of the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example to increase the water resistance and / or the SPF of the products: (a) siloxane elastomers comprising the units R 2 SiO and RSiO 1 | 5 and / or R 3 SiO 0i5 and / or SiO 2 , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, C 1-24 -alkyl (such as methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or ToIyI Alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of units R 2 SiO to RSiO 1 5 is selected from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1;
(b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1 ), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1 ) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2) • im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und • im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.(b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being such in that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or of the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) is in the range from 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic, and in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung liegen das oder die Siloxanelastomere in Form sphärischer Puder oder in Form von Gelen vor.Advantageously in the context of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer (s) are in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte in Form sphärischer Puder vorliegende Siloxanelastomere sind die mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, beispielsweise das von DOW CORNING unter der Handelsbezeichnungen DOW CORNING 9506 Powder erhältliche. Besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Kombination mit Ölen aus Kohlenwasserstoffen tierischer und/oder pflanzlicher Herkunft, synthetischen Ölen, synthetischen Estern, synthetischen Ethern oder deren Gemischen verwendet wird.Advantageously present in the form of spherical powders siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available. It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils of hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Kombination mit unverzweigten bei Raumtemperatur flüssigen oder pastösen Silikonölen oder cyclischen Silikonölen oder deren Gemischen verwendet wird. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind Organo- polysiloxanelastomere mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 , ganz besonders die von der Grant Industries Inc. erhältlichen Gransil-Typen GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-GeI, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 Gel und/oder DMCM-5.It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof which are liquid or pasty at room temperature. Particularly advantageous are organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, in particular the Gransil types available from Grant Industries Inc. GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE gel, PM-GeI, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
Ganz außergewöhnlich bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Form eines Gels aus Siloxanelastomer und einer Lipidphase verwendet wird, wobei der Gehalt des SiIo- xanelastomers in dem Gel 1 bis 80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 60 Gew.-% beträgt, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Gels.It is exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the silicone elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , in each case based on the total weight of the gel.
Es ist vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die Gesamtmenge der Siloxan- elastomere (Aktivgehalt) aus dem Bereich von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorteilhaft von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the total amount of siloxane elastomers (active content) from the range of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Formulation, to choose.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen.The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.
Als Pimpinella anis fruit extract wurde Bioxylift verwendet. Bioxylift was used as Pimpinella anis fruit extract.
O/W-Creme - Beispiel 1O / W Cream - Example 1
Figure imgf000021_0001
O/W-Tagescreme - Beispiel 2
Figure imgf000021_0001
O / W Day Cream - Example 2
Figure imgf000022_0001
Sonnenschutzcreme - Beispiel 3
Figure imgf000022_0001
Sunscreen Cream - Example 3
Figure imgf000023_0001
After Sun Gel - Beispiel 4
Figure imgf000023_0001
After Sun Gel - Example 4
Figure imgf000024_0001
Figure imgf000024_0001
After Shave Gel - Beispiel 5After Shave Gel - Example 5
Figure imgf000025_0001
Figure imgf000025_0001
O/W Creme - Beispiel 6O / W Cream - Example 6
Figure imgf000026_0001
O/W Creme - Beispiel 7
Figure imgf000026_0001
O / W Cream - Example 7
Figure imgf000027_0001
O/W Creme - Beispiel 8
Figure imgf000027_0001
O / W Cream - Example 8
Figure imgf000028_0001
Beispiel 9: W/O-Creme
Figure imgf000028_0001
Example 9: W / O cream
Figure imgf000029_0001
Figure imgf000029_0001
Beispiel 10 MikroemulsionExample 10 Microemulsion
Figure imgf000030_0001
Figure imgf000030_0001
Beispiele W/O StifteExamples of W / O pins
Figure imgf000031_0001
Figure imgf000032_0001
Figure imgf000031_0001
Figure imgf000032_0001

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend1. Cosmetic preparation containing
(a) einen wässrigen Frucht-Extrakt aus Anis (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), unter dem Handelsnamen Bioxilift bei der Gesellschaft SILAB, St. Viance, Frankreich, erhältlich-und(a) an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France
(b) einen oder mehrere Triazin-Lichtfilter.(b) one or more triazine light filters.
2. Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich anorganische Pigmente, bevorzugt gecoatetes Titandioxid, enthält.2. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.
3. Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich alpha-Hydroxysäuren enthalten sind.3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in addition alpha-hydroxy acids are included.
4. Zubereitung nach Patentanspruch 1 dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich Glycerin enthalten ist.4. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that in addition glycerol is included.
5. Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie eine Emulsion, bevorzugt eine O/W-Emulsion oder eine G7W- Hydrodispersion, darstellt.5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a G7W hydrodispersion.
6. Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als gecoatetes Titandioxid Substanzen mit einem Partikeldurchmesser von 10-250 nm, bevorzugt 10-100 nm, gewählt werden.6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as a coated titanium dioxide substances having a particle diameter of 10-250 nm, preferably 10-100 nm, are selected.
7. Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die alpha-Hydroxysäure Milchsäure, Zitronensäure, Apfelsäure oder Weinsäure ist.7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid.
8. Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie einen pH-Wert von 3 bis 10, bevorzugt von 4 bis 8, aufweist.8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a pH of 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8, having.
9. Verwendung einer Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche gegen Falten. 9. Use of a preparation according to one of the preceding claims against wrinkles.
10. Verwendung einer Zubereitung nach einem der vorangehenden Patentansprüche zur Steigerung der Hautelastizität. 10. Use of a preparation according to one of the preceding claims for increasing skin elasticity.
PCT/EP2006/062194 2005-06-03 2006-05-10 Cosmetic preparations including an aqueous anis fruit extract and triazine photofilters WO2006128778A1 (en)

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