DE10247695A1 - Polyol-containing cosmetic or dermatological emulsions contain a saccharide- N-alkylurethane which acts to remove stickiness - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological emulsions contain a combination of (a) a saccharide-N-alkylurethane; and (b) a polyol, optionally together with (c) further cosmetic and/or dermatological agents or auxiliaries.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion containing one Combination of saccharide-N-alkyl urethanes and polyols.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in humans. Even if the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, so is the pursuit a flawless appearance, always been the goal of people. A substantial part of one beautiful and has an attractive exterior the condition and appearance of the skin and skin appendages, i.e. of hair and nails.

The skin is the largest organ of the human. Among its many functions (e.g. for heat control and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, which is drying out the skin (and ultimately the entire organism), probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside and the UV radiation. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer the actual protective cover towards the Environment forms. With about a tenth of the total thickness, it is simultaneous the thinnest Layer of skin.

So that the skin's biological Fully perform functions can, it needs regular cleaning and care. The cleaning of the skin serves to remove Dirt, sweat and leftovers dead skin particles, which are an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, are mostly used for moisturizing and regreasing of the skin. Frequently they have added active ingredients that regenerate the skin and For example, their premature aging (e.g. the emergence of Pucker, Prevent and reduce wrinkles).

Skin care products exist in the Usually from emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood heterogeneous systems consisting of two not or only to a limited extent miscible liquids consist of the usual are called phases and in which one of the two liquids in the form of the finest droplets in the other liquid is dispersed. externally and with sheer When viewed by eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

Are the two liquids Water and oil and lie oil droplets fine distributed in water before, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is shaped by the water. With a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, the basic character is determined here by the oil.

To keep emulsions stable over a long period of time and to prevent segregation of the phases, the emulsions so-called emulsifiers added. Emulsifiers are usually around molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a non-polar, lipophilic structural element. In the late 1940s, a system was in place developed, which should facilitate the selection of emulsifiers. Each emulsifier is given a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless Attributed between 0 and 20) indicating whether a preferred one Water or oil solubility is present. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, Numbers about 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic.

The HLB value says something about the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emulsifier. It can be derived from these considerations that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following table shows the relationship between the HLB value and the possible area of application: HLB value field of use 0 to 3 defoamers 3 to 8 W / O emulsifier 7 to 9 wetting agent 8 to 18 O / W emulsifier 12 to 18 solubilizers

The HLB value of an emulsifier can be also calculate from increments, with the HLB increments for the different hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups that make up a molecule. In As a rule, he can compile tables (e.g. H.P. Fiedler, Lexikon der Auxiliaries for Pharmacy, Cosmetics and related areas, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 4th edition 1996) or the manufacturer's instructions. The solubility of the emulsifier in the two phases practically determines the type of emulsion. If the emulsifier is more soluble in water, an O / W emulsion is obtained. Has the emulsifier, however, better solubility in the oil phase arises a W / O emulsion under otherwise identical production conditions.

The oil phase of emulsions can have different compositions. The person skilled in the art differentiates between water-in-oil and water-in silicone oil emulsions depending on the content of silicone oils, the latter being characterized by a silicone oil content of more than 50% by weight. For silicone oil emulsions are special Emulsifiers required that differ from ordinary W / O emulsifiers. There are also differences in the cosmetic skin feel of both emulsion forms, since silicone oils are particularly good on the skin. Water-in-oil and water-in-silicone oil emulsions can be summarized under the term emulsion with an external lipophilic phase.

One of the most important tasks of the Skin care consists of moisturizing the skin to prevent water loss Compensate or reduce skin (e.g. transdermal water loss). Therefore, almost all contain cosmetic and / or dermatological Emulsions in addition to water, one or more water-binding substances. These skin moisturizers include other polyols such as glycerin and sorbitol. In addition, however, come other compounds for use such as ethoxylated polyols and hydrolyzed Proteins. Moreover find components of the natural Moisturizing factor of the skin (English Natural Moisturizing Factor, NMF) e.g. Urea and certain amino acids application. The furthest however, glycerin is common.

A big disadvantage of the state of the art consists in the negative sensory properties of polyol cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. These feel usually sticky and greasy on the skin and make the corresponding products for unattractive to the consumer. So far, this problem has been solved solved, that only small amounts of skin moisturizing substances in the commercial products have been incorporated or consumers only use small amounts of applied the cosmetic or dermatological emulsion to the skin, whereby the skin moisturizing effect and the effect of possibly further active ingredients in the preparation (e.g. UV light protection filter, Anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, self-tanners, repellents) clearly was reduced.

Another problem with the stand The technology consists in the fact that, especially in the industrialized countries, in the population increasingly intolerance and allergic reactions to a variety of chemicals and ingredients from Kosmtika or Dermatika comes. Of this Development are increasingly also ingredients of emulsions (e.g. emulsifiers) because they are partially absorbed into the skin and stay there for a relatively long time. Therefore there is a need for Emulsions with different compositions because of incompatibilities and allergic reactions are substance-specific and affected People the opportunity is given, cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions one on their intolerance profile to use coordinated emulsifier composition.

The object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art or at least significantly alleviate and sensually pleasant, well tolerated cosmetic and / or to develop dermatological preparations. The emulsions should spread well over the skin, and the skin is effective moisturize or significantly reduce the loss of moisture in the skin to reduce.

The object of the present invention it was also to formulate the emulsion in such a way that their basis in combination with cosmetic and / or dermatological Active ingredients such as UV light protection filters, anti-wrinkle active ingredients, Antioxidants, self-tanners, Repellents, depigmentation agents, etc., and many more cosmetic and dermatological emulsions for special areas of application can be produced, which are also part of the present invention should be.

Surprised solved the task is done through a cosmetic and / or dermatological Emulsion containing a combination of one or more saccharide-N-alkyl urethanes and one or more polyols, in addition to any other cosmetic ones and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

It is preferred according to the invention if as saccharide N-alkyl urethanes polysaccharide N-alkyl urethanes be used.

It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more polyfructosans (fructans) are used as polysaccharide be used. Preferred according to the invention is to use inulin as the polysaccharide.

According to the invention, the degree of polymerization is advantageous of the polysaccharide at least 3, preferably 3 to 100, particularly preferably 5 to 75, very particularly preferably 6 to 40 and most preferably between 10 and 35. The degree of polymerization here the number of monosaccharide building blocks of a polysaccharide.

According to the invention, the degree of substitution is advantageous of the saccharide on N-alkyl urethanes 0.1 to 2.0, preferably 0.15 to 1.5, particularly preferably 0.20 to 1.2, most preferably 0.4 to 0.8, and most preferred 0.5 to 0.6. The degree of substitution gives the average Number of alkyl urethane substituents on a monosaccharide unit of the saccharide.

For the purposes of the invention, it is advantageous if the alkyl radical of the N-alkylurethane groups with which the saccharides according to the invention are / are substituted is formed from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups with a carbon number of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, all of which N-alkyl urethane groups of a polysaccharide can consist of the same or different N-alkyl urethane groups. Alkyl radicals having a carbon number of 3 to 18 carbon atoms and particularly preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms are preferred according to the invention. According to the most Nn-octyl carbamate groups are preferred.

According to the invention, all polysaccharide-N-alkyl urethanes can be used particularly advantageously in the EP 964 054 A1 as well as in the journal Biomacromolecules (2001, Volume 2, pages 1256-1259) disclosed polysaccharide-N-alkylurethanes. Polysaccharide-N-alkyl urethanes, for example, which are offered by ORAFTI under the product group Inutec ^® Surfactans, in particular INUTEC ^® LIC 0.1, are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

Advantageously according to the invention cosmetic according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion the total amount of saccharide-N-alkyl urethanes from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.3 to 1.0% by weight, each based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The minimum amount is advantageous according to the invention of saccharide-N-alkyl urethanes 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.3% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The maximum amount is advantageous according to the invention of saccharide-N-alkyl urethanes 10.0% by weight, preferably 5.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

All organic-chemical compounds with two or more alcohol functions can be used as polyols according to the invention. According to the invention, preference is given to the use of carbohydrates (for example mono-, di-, oligo- and polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and, for example, under the label Fucogel ^® 1000 is available from SOLABIA SA), hydroxy acids, especially α-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium and / or citric acid, 1,2-propane diol, methyl propane diol, glycerin, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin.

Further preferred according to the invention Polyols are sorbitol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

The polyol particularly preferred according to the invention is glycerin.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention when the cosmetic and / or dermatological invention Emulsion a total amount of polyols from 5.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 20.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight the preparation.

The minimum amount is advantageous according to the invention of polyols (total concentration) 5.0% by weight, preferably 7.5 % By weight and particularly preferably 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The maximum amount is advantageous according to the invention of polyols (total concentration) 25.0% by weight, preferably 20.0 % By weight and particularly preferably 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological invention Emulsion is also characterized in that the ratio of Total amount of polysaccharides to the total amount of polyols from 1 : 1 to 1: 50, preferably from 1: 5 to 1: 30 and very particularly is preferably from 1:10 to 1:20.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological invention Emulsion can preferably be in addition to one or more oil phases additionally contain one or more water phases and for example in the form from W / O- (water in oil), W / S (water in silicone oil) O / W- (oil in water) or B / W (silicone oil are present in water) emulsion. They can also be advantageous according to the invention also in so-called multiple emulsions such as W / O / W-, O / W / O, W / S / W or S / W / S emulsions are present. Such phrases can preferably also a microemulsion (e.g. a PIT emulsion), a solid emulsions (i.e. an emulsion which is caused by solids is stabilized, e.g. B. a Pickering emulsion), a sprayable emulsion or be a hydrodispersion. Furthermore, the preparations in the sense of the present invention also be almost anhydrous (water content below 5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation emulsion according to the invention can be as watery In addition to water, according to the invention, another phase Contain ingredients, for example alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, Propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or -monoethyl ether and analog products.

The oil phase of the emulsion according to the invention, i.e. the lipophilic organic components become advantageous chosen from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as z. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

According to the invention, z. B. natural Waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as Beeswax and other insect waxes as well as berry wax, shea butter and / or Lanolin (wool wax).

Other advantageous polar oil components can in the sense of the present invention can also be selected from the group of Esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, Octyldodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, Tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous are z. B. dicaprylyl ether (cetiol OE and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that under the trade name Cetiol CC at Cognis available.

It is further preferred that the oil component from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (z. B. Myritol ^® 331 from Henkel), C _12-13 alkyl lactate , Di-C _12-13 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyloctyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade designation Hallbrite BHB Fa. CP Hall), hexadecyl and butyloctyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hall AB) and / or diethylhexyl (Corapan ^® TQ by Haarmann & Reimer).

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The lipid phase can contain the polar oil components according to the invention in a Concentration of up to 40% by weight based on the total weight the lipid phase.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also be advantageous also non-polar oils contain, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexa decane. Among the polyolefins are polydecenes and hydrogenated ones Polyisobutenes are the preferred substances.

The non-polar oil components can be beneficial in a concentration of up to 60% by weight based on that Total weight of the lipid phase in the emulsions according to the invention be included.

The oil phase can also be advantageous have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclo pentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also called cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Silicones particularly preferred according to the invention are dimethicone and cyclomethicone.

The silicone oil portion of the lipid phase can advantageously 20 to 100% by weight and particularly preferably 30 up to 60% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the lipid phase be.

The ratio of aqueous phase to lipid phase is in the cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions advantageously 60:40 to 80:20, being the ratio from 70:30 to 75:25 (aqueous Phase to lipid phase) is preferred.

The preparations according to the invention contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can be advantageous chosen are from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

• a) Partialfettsäureester und Fettsäureester mehrwertiger Alkohole und deren ethoxylierte Derivate (z. B. Glycerylmonostearate, Sorbitanstearate, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate)
• b) ethoxylierte Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren
• c) ethoxilierte Fettamine, Fettsäureamide, Fettsäurealkanolamide
• d) Alkylphenolpolyglycolether (z.B. Triton X)
• e) Zuckerderivate (Ester und/oder Ether von Glucose, Saccharose und anderen Zuckern; z.B. Alkylpolyglycoside wie Polyglyceryl-3-Methylglucose-Distearat, Methylglucosesesquistearat)

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X)
• e) Sugar derivatives (esters and / or ethers of glucose, sucrose and other sugars; for example alkyl polyglycosides such as polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, methylglucose sesquistearate)

• a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat)
• b) Fettalkoholsulfate
• c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

• a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z.B. Distearyldimonium Chloride

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, for example distearyldimonium chloride

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine
• c) Imidazolinderivate

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) Imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring ones Emulsifiers, including beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols belong.

• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• – der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• – der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• - der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-N
• – der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• – der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• – der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H,.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example:

• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - The ethoxylated triglycerides
• The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -N
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The propoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

Be particularly advantageous according to the invention the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageous with HLB values from 14.5 - 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated Have radicals R and R '. Assign the O / W emulsifiers unsaturated Residues R and / or R 'on, or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value can be such Emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19-), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether ( Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), Polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, 20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or the salt of which can advantageously be used in sodium laureth-11 carboxylate become.

Sodium can be used as the alkyl ether sulfate Laureth 1-4 sulfate can be used advantageously.

As an ethoxylated cholesterol derivative Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

As ethoxylated triglycerides can be advantageous which uses polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides be (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also convenient that Sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can are used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Monoglycerol ester more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C atoms, diglycerol ether more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C atoms and sorbitan esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, Glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

For a water-in-silicone oil emulsion according to the invention can all known for this type of emulsion used emulsifiers.

bei welcher X und Y unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe N sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen, Acylgruppen und Alkoxygruppen mit 1 – 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 0 – 200 darstellt, q eine Zahl von 1 – 40 darstellt, und r eine Zahl von 1 – 100 darstellt.According to the invention, the silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:

in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group N and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number Represents number from 1 - 100.

An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL ^® B 8842, ABIL ^® B 8843, ABIL ^® B 8847, ABIL ^® B 8851, ABIL ^® B 8852, ABIL ^® B 8863, ABIL ^® B 8873 and ABIL ^® B 88183 are sold.

Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 90th

Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 97th

Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly advantageous, the emulsifier lauryl which under the tradename Dow Corning ^® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd. is available.

Water-in-silicone emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention are Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicone [e.g. ABIL EM 90 (Goldschmidt), DC5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Corning)] as well as any mixtures of both emulsifiers.

The total amount of used in the invention Silicone emulsifiers in the cosmetic or dermatological invention Preparations from the range 0.1-10.0% by weight are preferred 0.5 - 5.0 % By weight selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is preferred according to the invention if the emulsion of the invention Emulsifiers such as cetyl-PEG / PPG-10/1-dimethicone and / or lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicones or emulsifiers such as polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, and / or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate contains.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological invention Contains emulsion advantageously further cosmetic and / or dermatological Active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

The emulsion of the invention is advantageous used as a sunscreen. But it is also beneficial in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and dermatological To create emulsions, the main purpose of which is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contains other UV protection substances contain. So z. B. in self-tanning products, day care products or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.

Accordingly, the emulsion contains in the sense of the present invention advantageously at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one UV light reflecting and / or absorbent inorganic pigment. The wording can, although not necessary, possibly also one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances contain which can be in the water and / or oil phase

According to the invention, all embodiments are where the UV protection substances are only in one of the two phases or are in both phases of the emulsion according to the invention.

Particularly advantageous at room temperature liquid UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: Homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and polymeric UV filters like that (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane Copolymer, which, for example, at Hoffmann-La Roche under the Trade name Parsol SLX is available.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

The pigments can be advantageous in the sense of present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions come into use.

These predispersions can be beneficial Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents added his.

The pigments can be advantageous according to the invention superficial treated ("coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is formed will or should be preserved. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The various surface coatings can be in According to the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020.

Advantageous additional UV filter substances For the purposes of the present invention, sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters are such as B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or Triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which for example under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP at Haarmann & Reimer available is;
• - salts 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or their triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS no. 27503-81-7), which for example under the trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or from Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) becomes. Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is for example under the trade name Mexoryl SX available from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
• - hydroxybenzophenone derivatives such as 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is obtainable for example by the company BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus ^® like.
• Benzoxazole derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4-bis (5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3, 5-triazine (CAS No .: 288254-16-0), which, for example, under the Han The UVASorb ^® K2A name is available from 3V Sigma.

Advantageous UV filter substances In the sense of the present invention, so-called broadband filters are also i.e. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• – Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• – 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL^® T 150 vertrieben wird.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris- [ anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL ^® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl ^® XL from Chimex.

The other UV filter substances can be oil soluble or water soluble his.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• – sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.
• – 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan – Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol^® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.
• - 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX.

Particularly advantageous emulsions in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, included in addition the filter substance or substances according to the invention) furthermore preferably further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, individually or in any combination with each other.

The list of UV filters mentioned, which can be used within the meaning of the present invention Of course not be limiting.

The UV light protection filter advantageous according to the invention are preferred in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight on the total weight of the formulation.

Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention include or that UV filter several triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, at room temperature liquid UV filter and / or the inorganic pigments, especially titanium dioxide.

Furthermore, it can be from Be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the emulsion according to the invention, for example to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble are suitable or dispersible as well as fat-soluble film formers, in each case individually or in combination with each other.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure ^® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface ^® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPNA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Copolymers are particularly preferred of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which is available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 at the GAF Chemicals Cooperation available are, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

According to the invention, the usual in the emulsion Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N- Acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters , Ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg- Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydrogenroxyroxyne derivative, mannybenzoic acid, mannybenzoic acid, mannodisorbate, mannihydroxybenzoic acid, mannodisulfuric acid, mannihydroxybenzoic acid, mannohydrobenzoic acid, mannodisulfuric acid, and its counterpart Derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of antioxidants (a or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.025 - 2.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 - 1.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that are antioxidants are advantageous their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Other advantageous active ingredients in For the purposes of the present invention, natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, fumaric acid esters, ectoin and its Derivatives, taurine, and / or β-alanine. These agents can in a concentration of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion contained in it.

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (in particular α-glycosyl rutin), Contain coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for prophylaxis and treatment cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. at skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles, Itching, reduced regreasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, Cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased vulnerability across from mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). Farther they are advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

However, other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, substances that soothe and care for the skin can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines (e.g. loratadine, cetirizine, dimetionden, clemastine, capsaicin, N ₁ antagonists, tannin preparations), local anesthetics, opiate antagonists (e.g. naltrexone, naloxone), anti-inflammatory drugs, e.g. A) like this such as active plant ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root. The vitamin D ₃ analogues tacalcitol, calcipotriol, tacalcitol, colecalciferol and calcitrol (vitamin D ₃ ) and / or fumaric acid esters can also be successfully incorporated into the preparations.

These active substances can be used in a concentration of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the emulsion to be contained in this.

Advantageous moisturizing or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers) for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride Gum-1, glycine soybean, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel ^® 1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The compositions contain according to the invention except the above-mentioned substances, if appropriate, those customary in cosmetics Additives, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial Lipid-replenishing substances Agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, Repellents, self-tanners (e.g. DHA), depigmenting agents (e.g. 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid)), pigments that have a coloring Have softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing effects Substances, or other common Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers, peeling substances (Abrasives, e.g. polymer beads or powder made of polyethylene, polypropylene etc. inorganic oxides, Silicates etc.), antiperspirant salts (e.g. acidic aluminum and / or Aluminum / zirconium salts such as aluminum chlorohydrate and / or aluminum / zirconium chlorohydrate) and electrolytes.

According to the invention, the repellent active ingredients listed below are preferred:

Particularly beneficial repellent active ingredients For the purposes of the present invention, the above-mentioned active substances N, N-Diethyl-3-methylbenzamide, 3- (N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester and dimethyl phthalate. The repellent is very particularly preferred 3- (N-n-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester.

Advantageous embodiments according to the invention the emulsion of the invention contain one or more repellent active ingredients in one concentration from 1-25% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

As self-tanners can be advantageous according to the invention used among others: glycerol aldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-dialdehyde, Erythrulose, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawson) and particularly preferably 1,3-dihydroxyacetone.

Advantageous embodiments according to the invention with at least one self-tanning substance these in a total concentration concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives according to the invention. Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ^™ ), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc. The table below gives an overview of some preservatives which are advantageous according to the invention:

Are also advantageous in cosmetics common Preservatives or preservatives, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, Benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid and salicylates.

It is special according to the invention preferred if iodopropyl butyl carbamates are used as preservatives, Parabens (methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben) and / or Phenoxyethanol can be used.

According to the invention, one or several preservatives in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 1% by weight or less 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation contain.

The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains one or more conditioners. Preferred conditioners according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in Section 4 below in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are all listed in the EP 0934956 (P.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent. Some of these compounds are listed under the components of the aqueous phase and the oil phase. Further conditioners which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, the compounds named polyquaternium according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI) (in particular polyquaternium-1 to polyquaternium-56).

The emulsion according to the invention can be advantageous according to the invention Contain glitter fabrics and / or other effect substances.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention when the emulsion of the invention one or more Hydrocolloids in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.1 to 7% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation contains.

As hydrocolloids advantageous according to the invention agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, Pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, Gelatin, casein, cellulose ether, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose derivatives, Polysaccharides, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurates / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers and ammonium polyacryldimethyl tauramides, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, Polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas used.

in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as which the Me be called ethyl ether of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are also generally as methyl celluloses designated mixed cellulose ether, which in addition to a dominant Additional methyl content Contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses, for example, are particularly preferred those under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of glycolic acid ether cellulose, for which R in structural formula I is a hydrogen and / or CH2-COONa can represent. The one under the trade name is particularly preferred Natrosol Plus 330 CS available from Aqualon, also as cellulose Gum designated sodium carboxymethyl cellulose.

Preferred in the sense of the present The invention is also xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also xanthan Called rubber, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is usually formed by fermentation from corn sugar and is isolated as the potassium salt.

Advantageous gelling agent in the sense The present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar like agar extract from North Atlantic, one of the florids Red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. According to the invention advantageous polyacrylates are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those from the group of so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol ^® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.) are selected. In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:

R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y are numbers which represent the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective Symbolize comonomers.

According to the invention particularly preferably acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers sold under the trade names Carbopol ^® 1382, Carbopol ^® 981 and Carbopol ^® 5984, Aqua SF-1 from NOVEON Inc. or as Aculyn ^® 33 from International Specialty Products Corp. are available. The carbomers Carbopol EDT 2001, ETD 2020 and ETD 2050 are also preferred.

Copolymers are also advantageous from C10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of Acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether Sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Connections that are advantageous the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer ". Particularly advantageous the under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 from NOVEON Inc.

Connections that are advantageous the INCI-Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer ". In particular those under the trade names Stabylen 30 are advantageous available from 3V Sigma.

Also advantageous are compounds which have the INCI name "acrylates / C12-24 pareth-25 acrylate copolymer" (available under the trade names Synthalen ^® W2000 from 3V Inc.) and the INCI name "acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer""(under the trade names Aculyn ^® 22 at the International Specialty Products Corp. available), the INCI name "acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer" (available under the trade names Structure 2001 ^® from National Starch), the INCI name "acrylates / aminoacrylates / C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer "(available under the trade names Structure Plus ^® from National Starch) and similar polymers.

According to the invention, it is particularly preferred neutralized or partially neutralized polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole from the company Noveon).

The cosmetic and / or dermatological invention Emulsions can contain a number of pigments.

The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

It may also be expedient to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot, 2 - (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, Cal cium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1 - (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo- 1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, 4 '- [(4''-sulfo-1''- phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy- 8-acetylaminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro- 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, 4,4'-dimethyl-6,6'-dichlorothioindigo . Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of carminic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate (CIN 77745), ultramarine (CIN 77007) and titanium dioxide.

Emulsions according to the invention can titanium dioxide included, both in the rutile and crystal modification Anatase may be present and advantageously treated superficially within the meaning of the present invention ("Coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is formed will or should be preserved. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The different surface coatings can be in the sense of the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), zirconium oxide (ZrO ₂ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

For this purpose, oxides, oxide hydrates or phosphates of, for example, the elements Al, Si, Zr in dense layers on the pigment surface precipitated.

The inorganic aftertreatment happens generally in an aqueous Suspension of the pigment by adding soluble aftertreatment chemicals, such as. Aluminum sulfate, and subsequent precipitation in the neutral area slightly soluble Hydroxides by adjusting the pH value with sodium hydroxide solution. After the inorganic post-treatment, the coated pigments separated from the suspension by filtration and washed thoroughly, to the solved Remove salts, then the isolated pigments are dried.

Particularly preferred in the sense of this Invention are titanium dioxide, on which aluminum hydroxide is applied to the surface such as the titanium dioxide types available from Sun Chemical C47-051 and C47- 5175. Further preferred pigments are titanium dioxides, which are coated with aluminum and or silicon oxides, e.g. from Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 and 1075 or from the company Kingfisher: A310.03 Tudor Aspen.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, Lauric acid, Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. This organic surface coatings can alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic Coating materials occur.

• – „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und
• – „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen),

monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl), Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/MetalloxidFurthermore, it can be advantageous to use pearlescent pigments according to the invention. These include natural pearlescent pigments such as B.

• - "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
• - "mother-of-pearl" (milled mussel shells),

monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl), layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example powdery Pigments or castor oil dispersions from Bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or Titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the under the CIN 77163 listed gloss pigment.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

Those of from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona available Pearlescent pigments.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Z are advantageous. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck.

It can also be advantageous to completely do without a substrate such as mica. Pearlescent pigments which are produced using SiO ₂ are particularly preferred. Such pigments, which can also have gonichromatic effects, are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF.

Pigments can also be advantageous from Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate, coated with titanium dioxide. These are available under the name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 - 180 μm, they have a glitter effect in addition to the color on.

The dyes and pigments can both individually and in a mixture and mutually be coated, with different coating thicknesses different color effects are generally produced. The The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The emulsion according to the invention is advantageous according to the invention in the form of an ointment, cream, lotion or an emulsion foam (French mousse) or a sprayable Form before.

The emulsion according to the invention can be advantageous according to the invention stored in a foam dispenser and out of shape a foam can be applied. It is in such a case advantageous according to the invention, if a foam dispenser or a pressurized gas container (also aerosol can called) is used. It has turned out to be special according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if a pump foam is used as the foam dispenser becomes.

The cleaning preparations according to the invention can but can also be advantageously foamed with a propellant. It is advantageous to use the propellant in an amount of 0.5 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably in a concentration of 1 up to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration from 3 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation use.

The propellant gases preferred according to the invention are propane, isobutane and n-butane and mixtures thereof. Compressed air, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrogen dioxide and dimethyl ether and mixtures of all these gases can also be used advantageously according to the invention. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are propellant mixtures made from propane and butane.

Of course, the specialist knows that it is there are non-toxic propellants that are essential for the realization of the present Invention in the form of aerosol preparations would be suitable to which, however, because of harmful effects on the environment or other circumstances should be avoided, especially fluorocarbons and Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs). These gases would also be advantageous according to the invention used.

The emulsion of the invention can also advantageous according to the invention as a watering an insoluble one Substrates (e.g. a cloth, etc.) are presented to the user. With such an insoluble one Substrate, which preferably consists of fibers or fiber mixtures of Viscose, PET, polyamide, polyethylene and / or cotton are formed the fabric formation can be by warp and weft, by stitch formation or by intertwining, and / or cohesive and / or adhesive connection of textile fibers. It is preferred according to the invention if the substrate is a composite.

Substrates are preferred according to the invention in the form of towels used, which consist of fleece, in particular from hydroentangled and / or water jet embossed Fleece. The substrates can advantageously also be designed as a bulk, perforated fleece or net.

Such substrates can be used for macro embossing desired Have patterns. The selection to be made is based on the one hand after the impregnation to be applied and on the other hand according to the field of application on which the subsequent cloth Should be used.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion for treatment, cleaning and / or Care of the skin and its appendages such as hair and nails.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion to protect against premature skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of dry skin.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion as a sunscreen.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion as a self-tanning cosmetic.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion for protection against insects, spiders and the like Animals.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion as a decorative cosmetic.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion for cleaning the skin and Removal of decorative cosmetics.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion for reduction and prevention the appearance and spread of fine lines and wrinkles.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion for the treatment of incorrect pigmentations of the skin.

The use of the cosmetic according to the invention is according to the invention and / or dermatological emulsion to reduce stickiness emulsions containing polyols.

The following examples are intended illustrate the present invention without restricting it. All Unless otherwise stated, quantities, proportions and percentages are the same specified, on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations related.

1. O / W emulsions

2. Foam-shaped O / W emulsions

Association of those heated to 78 ° C Grease / light protection filter phase with the water / light protection filter phase heated to 75 ° C. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring in the Becomix with gassing with helium at 1 bar with cooling 30 ° C. encore of the additives at 30 ° C (Perfume). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 23 ° C.

3. Thin to sprayable W / O emulsions (for use as a spray or aerosol)

4. W / O emulsions (creams & lotions)

5. Hydrodispersions (for use as a lotion or spray)

6. Oil gels

Claims (15)

Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion containing a combination of one or more saccharide-N-alkylurethanes and one or more polyols, in addition to any others cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after Claim 1, characterized in that as saccharide-N-alkyl urethanes Polysaccharide-N-alkylurethanes are used. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 or 2, characterized in that as a polysaccharide or several polyfructosans (fructans) are used. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that inulin is used as the polysaccharide becomes. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the degree of polymerization of Polysaccharide is at least 3 and the degree of substitution of N-alkyl urethanes from the range 0.1 up to 2.0 selected becomes. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the alkyl radical of the N-alkyl urethane groups is formed from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups with a carbon number of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, all N-alkyl urethane groups being one Polysaccharides from the same or different N-alkyl urethane groups can exist. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the total amount of polysaccharide-N-alkylurethanes of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion is. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the total amount of polyols from 5.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 20.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparation. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the ratio of Total amount of polysaccharides to the total amount of polyols from 1 : 1 to 1: 50, preferably from 1: 5 to 1: 30 and very particularly is preferably from 1:10 to 1:20. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that glycerol is used as the polyol becomes. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion after one of the claims 1 to 10, characterized in that they have one or more active ingredients from the group of antioxidants, anti-wrinkle agents, UV light protection filters, Self, Depigmentants, repellents, humectants, alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine, β-alanine, fumaric acid ester contains. Use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims for treatment and / or Skin care. Use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims for protection against premature Skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of dry skin. Use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims as a sunscreen. Use of one or more saccharide N-alkyl urethanes according to one of the preceding claims for reducing the stickiness emulsions containing polyols.