DE10241074A1 - Emulsions with microcellulose - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase, containing DOLLAR A a) an aqueous phase, DOLLAR A b) a lipophilic phase, DOLLAR A c) one or more W / O and / or W / S emulsifiers, DOLLAR A d) one or more microcrystalline celluloses, DOLLAR A d) one or more skin moisturizing agents, DOLLAR A in addition to any other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

Description

The present invention relates to microcrystalline cellulose-containing emulsions with lipophilic outer phase and their use.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in humans. Even if the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, so is the pursuit a flawless appearance, always been the goal of people. A substantial part of one beautiful and has an attractive exterior the condition and appearance of the skin and skin appendages, i.e. of hair and nails.

The skin is the largest organ of the human. Among its many functions (e.g. for heat control and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, which is drying out the skin (and ultimately the entire organism), probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside and the UV radiation. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer the actual protective cover towards the Environment forms. With about a tenth of the total thickness, it is simultaneous the thinnest Layer of skin.

So that the skin's biological Fully perform functions can, it needs regular cleaning and care. The cleaning of the skin serves to remove Dirt, sweat and leftovers dead skin particles, which are an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, are mostly used for moisturizing and regreasing of the skin. Frequently they have added active ingredients that regenerate the skin and For example, their premature aging (e.g. the emergence of Pucker, Prevent and reduce wrinkles).

Skin care products exist in the Usually from emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood heterogeneous systems consisting of two not or only to a limited extent miscible liquids consist of the usual are called phases and in which one of the two liquids in the form of the finest droplets in the other liquid is dispersed. externally and with sheer When viewed by eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

Are the two liquids Water and oil and lie oil droplets fine distributed in water before, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).

The basic character of an O / W emulsion is shaped by the water. With a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, the basic character is determined here by the oil.

To keep emulsions stable over a long period of time and to prevent segregation of the phases, the emulsions so-called emulsifiers added. Emulsifiers are usually around molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a non-polar, lipophilic structural element. In the late 1940s, a system was in place developed, which should facilitate the selection of emulsifiers.

Each emulsifier is a so-called Attributed HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20), indicating whether water or oil solubility is preferred. numbers under 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic.

The HLB value says something about the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and the lipophilic groups of an emulsifier: From these considerations it can be deduced that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following table shows the relationship between the HLB value and the possible area of application: HLB value field of use 0 to 3 defoamers 3 to 8 W / O emulsifier 7 to 9 wetting agent 8 to 18 O / W emulsifier 12 to 18 solubilizers

The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be calculated from increments, the HLB increments for the various hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups that make up a molecule. As a rule, it can be found in tables (e.g. HPFiedler, Lexicon of auxiliary substances for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 4th edition, 1996) or in the manufacturer's information. The solubility of the emulsifier in the two phases practically determines the type of emulsion. If the emulsifier is more soluble in water, an O / W emulsion is obtained. However, the emulsifier has a better one Solubility in the oil phase creates a W / O emulsion under otherwise identical production conditions.

The oil phase of emulsions can be composed differently. It differs depending on the content of silicone oils the specialist water-in-oil and water-in silicone oil emulsions, the latter being characterized by a silicone oil content of over 50% by weight distinguished. For Silicone oil emulsions special emulsifiers are required, which differ from ordinary ones Differentiate W / O emulsifiers. There are also differences in cosmetics skin feel Both forms of emulsion because silicone oils are particularly good on the skin raise. Water-in-oil and leave water-in-silicone oil emulsions can be summarized under the term emulsion with an external lipophilic phase.

Microcrystalline cellulose is considered cosmetic-pharmaceutical additive has been known for a long time. She will be in usually as a filling and binders in tablets and as suspending and / or thickening agents used in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations (H.P. Fiedler, Lexicon of auxiliary substances for pharmacy, cosmetics and related Territories, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 5th ed. 2002).

A disadvantage of the prior art is the fact that cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions with outer lipophilic Phase after application to the skin leaving a greasy-greasy feeling on the skin, which about a longer one Period remains.

Can also be used in conventional External lipophilic emulsions Phase only to a very limited extent (approx. 5% by weight) incorporate skin moisturizers, usually glycerin, since the preparations at higher Concentrations of skin humidifiers an unacceptable for the user, sticky skin feeling leave behind.

External lipophilic phase emulsions State of the art usually have the disadvantage, not particularly temperature and to be stable in storage. At temperatures above 30 ° C it happens within a very short time Time for irreversible oil deposits and a creeping destruction the emulsion.

In itself have cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions with external lipophilic Phase a high care effect on the skin. Furthermore, they can can be produced without any preservatives. But you greasy uncomfortable skin feeling as well as the long-lasting oily sheen that they leave on the skin, led so far compared to their acceptance among consumers to the O / W emulsions is rather low. Because skin gloss and greasy skin feel is generally perceived as unpleasant and unattractive.

Another disadvantage of the prior art Technology consists in the fact that, especially in the industrialized countries, in the population increasingly intolerance and allergic reactions to a variety of chemicals and ingredients of cosmetics or dermatics. Of this W / O and W / S emulsifiers are also increasingly being developed affected because they are partially absorbed into the skin and relatively long stay there. Therefore the concentration of W / O or W / S emulsifiers in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations preferably be kept low.

It was therefore the task of the present one Invention the listed defects to eliminate the state of the art or at least significantly alleviate and cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions with lipophilic outer phase to develop that are particularly temperature and storage stable through a pleasant feeling on the skin award and make it possible on the one hand the concentration of (usually not particularly good acceptable) To reduce W / O or W / S emulsifiers and on the other hand to be particularly rich in skin moisturizers.

• a) eine wässrige Phase,
• b) eine lipophile Phase,
• c) einen oder mehrere W/O- und/oder W/S- Emulgatoren,
• d) eine oder mehrere mikrokristalline Cellulosen,
• d) ein oder mehrere Hautbefeuchtungsmittel,

neben gegebenenfalls weiteren kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffen.The object is surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion containing an outer lipophilic phase

• a) an aqueous phase,
• b) a lipophilic phase,
• c) one or more W / O and / or W / S emulsifiers,
• d) one or more microcrystalline celluloses,
• d) one or more skin moisturizers,

in addition to any other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

Draw the preparations according to the invention is characterized by a pleasantly dry, dull skin feeling. The one for emulsions with outer lipophilic Phase so typical oily shine on the skin is significantly reduced. The preparations according to the invention are also Particularly skin-friendly, because on the one hand they contain the emulsifier concentration reduced by up to 50% and on the other hand the concentration of skin moisturizers (especially glycerin) compared to products without microcrystalline Celluloses can be roughly doubled without the application the preparation creates a sticky feeling on the skin.

Emulsions containing microcrystalline cellulose are known per se. This is how the Japanese patent describes JP 55162710 emulsions containing microcrystalline cellulose. But she could This document does not show the way to the present invention.

The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains according to the invention one or more emulsifiers with an active content of 0.01 to 12% by weight, preferably with an active content of 1.5 to 8% by weight and particularly preferably with an active content of 2.5 to 5.5% by weight, each based on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount on emulsifiers according to the invention.

According to the invention, the minimum amount (active content) is on one or more emulsifiers 0.01% by weight, preferably 1.5 % By weight and particularly preferably 2.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount of emulsifiers according to the invention. The maximum amount (active salary) on one or more emulsifiers advantageously 12% by weight, preferably % By weight 8 and particularly preferably 5.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount of emulsifiers according to the invention.

According to the invention, the active content means that amount of emulsifier substance which is effective as an emulsifier or can work. It can usually be found in the manufacturer's instructions become.

The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains according to the invention one or more microcrystalline celluloses in an amount of 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably in an amount of 0.15 to 0.75% by weight, each based on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention, the minimum amount is one or more microcrystalline celluloses 0.01% by weight, preferred 0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.15% by weight and the Maximum amount one or more microcrystalline celluloses advantageously 2% by weight, preferably 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.75% by weight, each based on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount on microcrystalline according to the invention Celluloses.

According to the invention, the one used according to the invention is advantageous Cellulose from a mixture of microcrystalline cellulose and Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose in a mixing ratio of 100: 0 to 80:20 and preferably in a mixing ratio of 91.7: 8.3 to 81.2: 18.8.

According to the invention, the particle size of the cellulose particles is preferred chosen so that 0.1% of the particles have a size of> 250 μm and 40-50% of the Particles have a size of> 44 μm.

The product Avicel ^® RC-591 or Avicel ^® Cl is preferred according to the FMC 611 used as inventive cellulose.

The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains according to the invention one or more skin moisturizers in a concentration of 3 to 25% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 5 to 12% by weight and particularly preferably in a concentration of 7.5 to 10% by weight, each based on the total weight of the Emulsion.

According to the invention, the minimum amount of one or more skin moisturizers is 3 % By weight, preferably 5% by weight and particularly preferably 7.5% by weight and the maximum amount of one or more skin moisturizers advantageously 25% by weight, preferably 12% by weight and particularly preferably 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight the emulsion and the total amount of skin moisturizers according to the invention.

According to the invention, advantageously a or several skin moisturizers are selected from the group glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid urea and polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is described in Chemical Abstracts is filed under registration number 178463-23-5. Preferred according to the invention are glycerin, sorbitol, urea and butylene glycol.

• – A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• – a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• – X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe

anstellt,

• – R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander so gewählt werden H, Methyl, dass aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• – R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1–20 Kohlenstoffatomen, oder dass der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole mit 8–30 Kohlenstoftatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester von Polyolen, insbesondere des Glycerins, Pentaerythritylester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, ins besondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerin Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen oder dass die vorstehend genannten Typen von W/O-Emulgatoren zusätzlich in der Weise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind, dass sie ethoxylierte und/oder propopoxylierte W/O-Emulgatoren darstellen.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to the invention can advantageously be present according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion). In such a case, one or more W / O emulsifiers are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• A represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group

hires,

• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but that not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms, or that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 Carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8–24, in particular 12–18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, Mo noglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12 -18 carbon atoms, triglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, esp other 12-18 carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular glycerol, pentaerythrityl esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they represent ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers.

wobei R' gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen und R'' gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylengruppen mit 1 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen und b Zahlen von 0 bis 200 annehmen kann.It is particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen such that the residues A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl residues and hydroxyacyl residues with 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups connected via ester functions, according to the scheme.

where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R''is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

The following emulsifiers can be used according to the invention:

It is very particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 Distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate.

In a second embodiment of the present invention which is advantageous according to the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to the invention in the form of a water-in-silicone oil emulsion (W / S emulsion).

bei welcher X und Y unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe N (Wasserstoff) sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen, Acylgruppen und Alkoxygruppen mit 1–24 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 0–200 darstellt, q eine Zahl von 1 – 40 darstellt, und r eine Zahl von 1–100 darstellt.According to the invention, silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:

in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group N (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups with 1-24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0-200, q represents a number from 1-40, and r represents a number from 1-100.

An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL ^® B 8842, ABIL ^® B 8843, ABIL ^® B 8847, ABIL ^® B 8851, ABIL ^® B 8852, ABIL ^® B 8863, ABIL ^® B 8873 and ABIL ^® B 88183 are sold.

Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (cetyl dimethicone), which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 90th

Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the tradename ABIL® EM 97 and ABIL ^® WE 09th

Furthermore, the emulsifier Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicone (Laurylmethiconcopolyol), which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning ^® 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.

Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is, octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside 'from Wacker.

For a water-in-silicone oil emulsion according to the invention can all known for this type of emulsion used emulsifiers. According to the invention particularly preferred water-in-silicone emulsifiers are cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicone [e.g. ABIL EM 90 (Goldschmidt), DC5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Corning)] and any mixtures from both emulsifiers.

Emulsions according to the invention in the form a thin (with a viscosity from 3000 to 8000 mPas, measured at 25 ° C with the Haake Viscotester VT-02) and / or sprayable W / O or W / S emulsion or W / O-W / S mixed emulsion with a viscosity of ≤ 1500 mPas (measured at 25 ° C with the Haake Viscotester VT-02), contain very particularly preferred emulsifiers such as polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate in combination with polysorbate.

W / O emulsions according to the invention, W / S emulsions or W / O-W / S mixed emulsions, which are in the form of a soft to solid Cream with a viscosity above 9000 mPas (measured at 25 ° C with the Haake Viscotester VT-02) are present, are particularly advantageous according to the invention relationship from emulsifier to lipid phase from 1: 5 to 1:10.

W / O emulsions according to the invention, W / S emulsions or W / O-W / S mixed emulsions, which are in the form of a flowable and / or liquid Lotion with a viscosity from 3000 to 9000 mPas are present, according to the invention particularly advantageous a ratio from emulsifier to lipid phase from 1:10 to 1:20.

The total amount (active content) used according to the invention Silicone emulsifiers in the cosmetic or dermatological invention Preparations are advantageously used in the range from 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0 % By weight and very particularly preferably 1-2.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparation according to the invention is advantageous according to the invention in the form of an ointment, cream, lotion or an emulsion foam (French mousse).

In addition to water, the emulsion according to the invention can also contain, according to the invention, other ingredients, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol and glycerol.

The lipid phase of the emulsion according to the invention is chosen advantageously from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as z. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, Almond oil, Palm oil, Coconut oil, Castor oil, Wheat germ oil, Grape seed oil, Safflower oil, Evening primrose oil, Macadamia nut oil and the like more.

Natural waxes are advantageous according to the invention of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes as well as berry wax, shea butter, lanolin (Wool wax alcohol, trade name Eucerit from Beiersdorf), candella wax, Carnauba wax.

Further advantageous according to the invention Can wax be synthetic in nature, such as myristyl myristate, fatty alcohols (C16-C4), paraffin wax, cetyl palmitate, tripalmitin, ceresin, hydrogenated Cocosglyceride, C15-C40 alkyl stearyl stearate (e.g. trade names Kester wax K40P, K48P, K70P, K80P from Kosten Keunen), polyvinyl stearyl ether.

Other advantageous polar oil components can in the sense of the present invention can also be selected from the group of Esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, Octyldodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Steanlheptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, Tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, an oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous are z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that under the trade name Cetiol CC at Cognis available.

It is further preferred that the oil component from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (z. B. Myritol® 331 by Henkel), C ₁₂ _ ₁₃ alkyl lactate , Di-C _{1 2} _ ₁₃ alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _{1 2} - ₁₅ alkyl benzoate comprises or consists entirely of the latter.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyloctyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade designation Hallbrite BHB Fa. CP Hall), hexadecyl and butyloctyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hall AB) and / or diethylhexyl (Corapan ^® TQ of Haarmann & Reimen.

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. The relationship of the oils that are liquid at room temperature the waxes which are solid or semisolid at room temperature in the lipid particles according to the invention is from 0: 100 to 1: 4.

Furthermore, an oil phase can also be advantageous also non-polar oils contain, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred Substances.

An oil phase can also be advantageous have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

Silicone oils are high molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked via oxygen atoms and / or linked like a network and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) saturated are. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes are also called polydimethylsiloxanes or Dimethicon (INCI). Dimethicone comes in several chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are sold, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 are available from Th. Goldschmidt. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl Dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also called cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants as additives or active ingredients be used. Included according to the invention the preparations advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional antioxidants can all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfone oximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives , Butylated hydroxytoluene, Butylated hydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its der derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of present invention can water-soluble Antioxidants are used, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also Vitamin E and its derivatives as well as Vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (a or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that are antioxidants are advantageous their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

It is particularly advantageous when the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred Active ingredients are antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress protect can.

Other advantageous active ingredients in For the purposes of the present invention, natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine, fumaric acid esters, and / or β-alanine.

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like are particularly suitable for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local Hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

However, other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, substances that soothe and care for the skin can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root. The vitamin D ₃ analogues tacalcitol, calcipotriol, tacalcitol, colecalciferol and calcitrol (vitamin D ₃ ) and / or fumaric acid esters can also be successfully incorporated into the preparations.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the senso-chemical and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, induce or intensify a velvety or silky skin feel. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The emulsion of the invention can be advantageous can be used as sunscreen. But it is also beneficial in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and dermatological To prepare preparations whose main purpose is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contains other UV protection substances contain.

Accordingly, the preparation contains in the sense of the present invention advantageously at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one UV light reflecting and / or absorbing inorganic pigment. The wording may, although not necessary, possibly also one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments contained as UV filter substances, which in the water and / or the oil phase can be present All are according to the invention Embodiments, where the UV protection substances are only in one of the two phases or are in both phases of the preparation according to the invention.

Particularly advantageous at room temperature liquid UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: Homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and polymeric UV filters like that (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane Copolymer, which, for example, at Hoftmann-La Roche under the Trade name Parsol SLX is available.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

The pigments can be advantageous in the sense of present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous Predispersions are used. These predispersions can be beneficial Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents added his.

The pigments can be advantageous according to the invention superficial treated ("coated") be, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic Character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The various surface coatings can be in According to the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can be used alone, in combination and / or occur in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020.

• – Phenylen-l,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-l,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-0xo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.
• – Hydroxybenzophenon-Derivate, wie z.B. 2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexylester, welches beispielsweise von der Firma BASF unter dem Handelsnamen Uvinul^® A Plus erhältlich ist.
• – Benzoxazol-Derivate, wie z.B. das 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzossazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS-Nr.: 288254-16-0), welches beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen UVASorb^® K2A von der Firma 3V Sigma erhältlich ist.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo- bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-0xo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
• - hydroxybenzophenone derivatives such as 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is obtainable for example by the company BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus ^® like.
• Benzoxazole derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3, 5-triazine (CAS-No .: 288254-16-0), which is available for example under the trade name Uvasorb K2A ^® by the company 3V Sigma.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broads band filter, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• – Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• – 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltrümino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p- carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL^® T 150 vertrieben wird.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4' '- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltrümino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p- carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is from BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the brand name UVINUL^® T 150 is distributed.

An advantageous broadband filter For the purposes of the present invention, 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) is also which is marketed under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA chemicals GmbH available is.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] -phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl ^® XL from Chimex.

The other UV filter substances can be oil soluble or water soluble his.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• – sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.
• – 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan
• – Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol^® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.
• - 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane
• - Copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection in addition to the filter substance or substances according to the invention) furthermore preferably further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular Dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexylester, individually or in any combination together.

The list of UV filters mentioned, which can be used within the meaning of the present invention Of course not be limiting.

The UV light protection filter advantageous according to the invention are preferred in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight on the total weight of the formulation.

Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention include or that UV filter several triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, at room temperature liquid UV filter and / or the inorganic pigments, especially titanium dioxide.

Furthermore, it can be from Be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the preparation according to the invention, for example to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble are suitable or dispersible as well as fat-soluble film formers, in each case individually or in combination with each other.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure ^® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface ^® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPNA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Copolymers are particularly preferred of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which is available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 at the GAF Chemicals Cooperation available are, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

The emulsions according to the invention can also all water-soluble approved according to the cosmetics regulation and / or oil-soluble Contain UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substances.

The compositions contain according to the invention except the above-mentioned substances, if appropriate, those customary in cosmetics Additives, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial Lipid-replenishing substances Agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, Repellents, self-tanners (e.g. DHA), depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect have softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as Emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.

The emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives according to the invention. Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ^™ ), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc. The table below gives an overview of some preservatives which are advantageous according to the invention:

Are also advantageous in cosmetics common Preservatives or preservatives, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, Benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if iodopropyl butyl carbamates, parabens (methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben) and / or phenoxyethanol are used as preservatives become.

According to the invention, one or several preservatives in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 1% by weight or less 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation contain.

The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains one or more conditioning. Preferred conditioners according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in Section 4 below in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are all listed in the EP 0934956 (P.11–13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent. Some of these compounds are listed under the components of the aqueous phase and the oil phase. Further conditioning advantageous according to the invention are, for example, the compounds named polyquaternium according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI) (in particular polyquaternium-1 to polyquaternium-56).

The emulsion according to the invention can be advantageous according to the invention Contain glitter fabrics and / or other effect fabrics.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention when the emulsion of the invention one or more Hydrocolloids in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.1 to 7% by weight and whole particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation contains.

As hydrocolloids advantageous according to the invention agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, Pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, Gelatin, casein, cellulose ether, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose derivatives, Polysaccharides, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurates, vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers and ammonium polyacryldimethyl tauramides, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, Polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas used.

in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are also generally as methyl celluloses designated mixed cellulose ether, which in addition to a dominant Additional methyl content Contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses, for example, are particularly preferred those under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in the structural formula I can represent a hydrogen and / or CH2-COONa. Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.

Preferred in the sense of the present The invention is also xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also xanthan Called rubber, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is usually formed by fermentation from corn sugar and is isolated as the potassium salt.

Advantageous gelling agent in the sense The present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar like agar extract from North Atlantic, one of the florids Red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. According to the invention advantageous polyacrylates are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those from the group of so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol ^® actually a registered Mar ke from NOVEON Inc.) can be selected. In particular, the acrylate-alkylarylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:

In it, R 'put a long chain Alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which correspond to the respective stoichiometric Symbolize the proportion of the respective comonomers.

According to the invention particularly preferably acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers sold under the trade names Carbopol ^® 1382, Carbopol ^® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 from NOVEON Inc. or as Aculyn ^® 33 from International Specialty Products Corp. are available. The carbomers Carbopol EDT 2001, ETD 2020 and ETD 2050 are also preferred.

Copolymers are also advantageous from C10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of Acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether Sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Connections that are advantageous the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Großpolymer ". Particularly advantageous are those under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 available from NOVEON Inc.

Compounds which carry the INCI acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate large polymer "are advantageous. Particularly advantageous are those under the trade names Stabylen 30 available from 3V Sigma.

Also advantageous are compounds which have the INCI name "acrylates / C12-24 pareth-25 acrylate copolymer" (available under the trade names Synthalen ^® W2000 from 3V Inc.) and the INCI name "acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer""(under the trade names Aculyn ^® 22 available from International Specialty Products Corp.), which the INCI name" acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer "(available under the trade names Structure 2001 ^® available from National Starch), the INCI the Designation "acrylates / aminoacrylates / C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer" (available under the trade names Structure Plus ^® from National Starch) and similar polymers.

According to the invention, it is particularly preferred neutralized or partially neutralized polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole from the company Noveon).

According to the use of a or several microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase to reduce the gloss of the emulsion on the skin, after the Application of the same.

The reduction in skin gloss according to the invention can be determined as follows:

Measurement of skin gloss using reflection spectrometer

With the help of this parameter the shine of the skin surface certainly.

The human skin produces in their sebaceous glands constantly Sebum (tallow, surface lipid), which is drop-shaped from the glandular openings occurs. These drops of sebum are particularly useful in the case of a high Sebum secretion rate (oily skin) quickly increases and binds through the topography and warmth the skin surface to a shiny Movie. A reflection spectrometer is used to determine the skin gloss (e.g. MCS 500, Zeiss). With a light guide and a special measuring head emits white light at an entry angle from 60 ° to the skin surface brought. That reflected at the exit angle of also 60 ° or reflected light is fed to the detector and quantified.

The product is also included in the sensory test with subjects who subjectively assess the gloss behavior microcrystalline cellulose was statistically significantly less shiny.

The use is also according to the invention of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase to create a dull, non-sticky feeling on the skin Emulsion on the skin after application.

The use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase to reduce the emulsifier concentration in the emulsion.

Conventional W / O emulsions exhibit an emulsifier content of 3 to 8% by weight (active content), which according to the invention on one Active content reduced by approximately 1.5-2% by weight can be.

Conventional W / S emulsions have an emulsifier content of 3 to 6% by weight (active content), which according to the invention on one Active content of about 1-1.5 Weight% can be reduced.

According to the use of a or several microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase to increase the temperature and storage stability of the emulsion.

According to the invention, the use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for skin care as well for the prophylaxis and therapy of UV light-related and / or age-related changes of the skin.

W/S-Emulsionen

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. W / O emulsions,

W / S emulsions

Claims (13)

Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with external lipophilic Containing phase a) an aqueous Phase, b) a lipophilic phase, c) one or more W / O and / or W / S emulsifiers, d) one or more microcrystalline celluloses, d) one or more skin moisturizers, in addition optionally further cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, Auxiliaries and additives. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that it a) one or more emulsifiers with an active content of 0.01 to 12% by weight, b) one or several microcrystalline celluloses in an amount of 0.01 to 2% by weight, c) one or more skin moisturizers in a concentration of 3 to 25% by weight, each related on the total weight of the emulsion. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of the Expectations 1 or 2, characterized in that the microcrystalline celluloses from a mixture of microcrystalline cellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose in a mix ratio from 100% to 0% to 80% to 20%. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized indicates that it is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that one or more W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula

A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals, a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40, X represents a single bond or the group

- represents, - R ₁ and R _{2 are} independently selected H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl, - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms, or that the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, some own and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 Carbon atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8–24 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms , Sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, pentaerythrityl esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain catch of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they ethoxylate and / or represent propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of the Expectations 1 to 3, characterized in that it is a water-in-silicone oil emulsion (W / S emulsion). Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to claim 6, characterized in that one or more emulsifiers are selected from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of the Expectations 1 to 7, characterized in that one or more skin moisturizers chosen are selected from the group consisting of glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, butylene glycol, Propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid urea and polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is described in Chemical Abstracts is filed under registration number 178463-23-5. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for reducing the gloss the emulsion on the skin after application. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for producing a blunt, not sticky skin feel the emulsion on the skin after application. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase any of the preceding claims, to reduce the emulsifier concentration in the emulsion. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, to increase the Temperature and storage stability the emulsion. Use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase any of the preceding claims, for skin care and for the prophylaxis and therapy of UV light skin-related and / or age-related changes.