WO2004022019A1

WO2004022019A1 - Emulsions containing microcellulose

Info

Publication number: WO2004022019A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/009684
Authority: WO
Inventors: Rainer Kröpke; Andreas Bleckmann; Astrid Heptner; Silke FÜLLER; Celina Konz
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2002-09-05
Filing date: 2003-09-01
Publication date: 2004-03-18
Also published as: DE10241074A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic and/or dermatological emulsions with a lipophilic outer phase, containing a) an aqueous phase, b) a lipophilic phase, c) at least one water-in-oil and/or water-in-silicone emulsifier, d) at least one microcrystalline cellulose, e) at least one skin moistening agent, and optionally other cosmetic and/or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliary agents and additives.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

Emulsions with microcellulose

The present invention relates to microcrystalline cellulose-containing emulsions with a lipophilic outer phase and their use.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in people. Even if the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been the goal of people. The condition and appearance of the skin and the appendages of the skin have an essential part of a beautiful and attractive exterior, i.e. of hair and nails.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (e.g. for heat regulation and an internal organ), the barrier function, which prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out, is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of external substances and UV radiation. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it needs regular cleaning and care. The cleaning of the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat and residues of dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, mostly serve to moisturize and regrease the skin. Active ingredients are often added to them, which regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce their premature aging (e.g. the appearance of wrinkles, wrinkles).

Skin care products usually exist! from emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two or not at all there are miscible liquids which are usually referred to as phases and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. When viewed externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

If the two liquids are water and oil and there are oil droplets in water, this is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.

So-called emulsifiers are added to the emulsions in order to keep emulsions stable over a longer period of time and to prevent separation of the phases. Emulsifiers are generally molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and an apolar, lipophilic structural element. At the end of the 1940s, a system was developed that should make it easier to select emulsifiers. Each emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20), which indicates whether there is a preferred water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic.

The HLB value says something about the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emulsifier. It can be derived from these considerations that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following list shows the relationship between the HLB value and the possible area of application:

HLB value area of application

0 to 3 defoamers

3 to 8 W / O emulsifier

7 to 9 wetting agents

8 to 18 O / W emulsifier 12 to 18 solubilizers The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be calculated from increments, the HLB increments for the various hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups that make up a molecule. As a rule, it can be found in tables (e.g. HPFiedler, encyclopedia of auxiliary substances for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 4th ed. 1996) or in the manufacturer's information. The solubility of the emulsifier in the two phases practically determines the type of emulsion. If the emulsifier is more soluble in water, an O / W emulsion is obtained. On the other hand, if the emulsifier has better solubility in the oil phase, a W / O emulsion is produced under otherwise identical production conditions.

The oil phase of emulsions can have different compositions. Depending on the content of silicone oils, the person skilled in the art differentiates between water-in-oil and water-in silicone oil emulsions, the latter being characterized by a silicone oil content of more than 50% by weight. Special emulsifiers are required for silicone oil emulsions, which distinguish them from ordinary W / O emulsifiers. There are also differences in the cosmetic skin feel of both emulsion forms, since silicone oils are particularly good on the skin. Water-in-oil and water-in-silicone oil emulsions can be summarized under the term emulsion with an external lipophilic phase.

Microcrystalline cellulose has long been known as a cosmetic-pharmaceutical additive. It is generally used as a filler and binder in tablets and as a suspending and / or thickening agent in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations (HPFiedler, encyclopedia of auxiliaries for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 5 Ed. 2002).

A disadvantage of the prior art is the fact that cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions with an external lipophilic phase leave a greasy, greasy skin feeling after application to the skin, which feeling is retained over a longer period of time.

Furthermore, in conventional emulsions with an external lipophilic phase, skin moisturizers, usually glycerin, can only be used to a very limited extent (approx. 5% by weight). work in, as the preparations leave a sticky skin feeling that is no longer acceptable to the user at higher concentrations of skin humidifiers.

Emulsions with an external lipophilic phase of the prior art usually have the disadvantage of not being particularly temperature and storage stable. At temperatures above 30 ° C, irreversible oil deposits and a gradual destruction of the emulsion occur within a very short time.

In itself, cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions with an external lipophilic phase have a high care effect on the skin. Furthermore, they can be manufactured without any preservatives. However, their greasy, uncomfortable skin feel and the long-lasting greasy shine they leave on the skin has so far led to their acceptance by consumers being rather low compared to the O / W emulsions. Because skin gloss and greasy skin feeling is generally perceived as unpleasant and unattractive.

Another disadvantage of the prior art is the fact that, particularly in the industrialized countries, the population increasingly experiences intolerances and allergic reactions to a large number of chemicals and ingredients in cosmetics and dermatics. W / O and W / S emulsifiers are also increasingly affected by this development, since they partially penetrate into the skin and remain there for a relatively long time. Therefore, the concentration of W / O or W / S emulsifiers in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations should be kept as low as possible.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the at least shortcomings of the prior art, or at least to alleviate them significantly, and to develop cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions with a lipophilic outer phase which are particularly temperature- and storage-stable and are distinguished by a pleasant feeling on the skin and on the one hand make it possible to reduce the concentration of (usually not particularly well tolerated) W / O or W / S emulsifiers and on the other hand to be particularly rich in skin moisturizers. The object is surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with an outer lipophilic phase comprising a) an aqueous phase, b) a lipophilic phase, c) one or more W / O and / or W / S emulsifiers, d) one or more microcrystalline celluloses, d) one or more skin moisturizers, in addition to any further cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

The preparations according to the invention are distinguished by a pleasantly dry, dull skin feel. The oily sheen on the skin so typical of emulsions with an external lipophilic phase is significantly reduced. Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention are particularly skin-friendly, since on the one hand they reduce the emulsifier concentration by up to 50% and on the other hand the concentration of skin moisturizers (in particular glycerol) can be roughly doubled compared to products without microcrystalline celluloses, without this being the case when the preparation is applied a sticky skin feeling arises.

Emulsions containing microcrystalline cellulose are known per se. Japanese patent JP 55162710 describes emulsions containing microcrystalline cellulose. However, this document could not point the way to the present invention.

The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains one or more emulsifiers with an active content of 0.01 to 12% by weight, preferably with an active content of from 1.5 to 8% by weight, and particularly preferably with one Active content of 2.5 to 5.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount of emulsifiers according to the invention.

According to the invention, the minimum amount (active content) of one or more emulsifiers is 0.01% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 2.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount of emulsifiers according to the invention. The maximum amount (active content) one or more emulsifiers advantageously 12% by weight, preferably 8% by weight and particularly preferably 5.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount of emulsifiers according to the invention.

According to the invention, the active content means that amount of an emulsifier substance that is or is effective as an emulsifier. It can usually be found in the manufacturer's instructions.

The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains one or more microcrystalline celluloses in an amount of 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably in an amount of 0.15 to 0, 75% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention, the minimum amount of one or more microcrystalline celluloses is 0.01% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.15% by weight, and the maximum amount of one or more microcrystalline celluloses is advantageously 2% by weight, preferably 1 % By weight and particularly preferably 0.75% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount of microcrystalline celluloses according to the invention.

Advantageously according to the invention, the cellulose used according to the invention consists of a mixture of microcrystalline cellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose in a mixing ratio of 100: 0 to 80:20 and preferably in a mixing ratio of 91.7: 8.3 to 81.2: 18.8.

According to the invention, the particle size of the cellulose particles is preferably selected such that 0.1% of the particles have a size of> 250 μm and 40-50% of the particles have a size of> 44 μm.

Is evorzugt According to the invention a b e ls rfindungsgemäße C ellulose d as product Avicel ^® RC-591 or Avicel ^® FMC Cl used 611th Advantageously according to the invention, the emulsion according to the invention contains more or more skin moisturizers in a concentration of 3 to 25% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 5 to 12% by weight and particularly preferably in a concentration of 7.5 up to 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention, the minimum amount of one or more skin moisturizers is 3% by weight, preferably 5% by weight and particularly preferably 7.5% by weight, and the maximum amount of one or more skin moisturizers is advantageously 25% by weight, preferably 12% by weight and particularly preferably 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion and the total amount of skin moisturizers according to the invention.

According to the invention, one or more skin wetting agents can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, biosaccaride Gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid urea and polysaccharides such as hyalanuronic acid and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5. Glycerol, sorbitol, urea and butylene glycol are preferred according to the invention.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to the invention can advantageously be present according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion). In such a case, one or more W / O emulsifiers are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula

in which

A and A 'represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals, - a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,

X is a single bond or the group - CH— I

OIR ₃ represents, R 1 and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl, R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1 - 20 carbon atoms, or that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8 - 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 - 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 - 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched r and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids, a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to

10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24 , in particular 1 2 - 1 8 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, pentaerythrityl esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 - 24, in particular special 12-18 C atoms, methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms or that the types of W / O emulsifiers mentioned above are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O- Represent emulsifiers.

It is particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen such that the residues A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl residues and hydroxyacyl residues with 10 - 30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups connected to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme.

where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

The following emulsifiers can be used according to the invention:

It is very particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate.

In a second embodiment of the present invention which is advantageous according to the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to the invention can be in the form of a water-in-silicone oil emulsion (W / S emulsion).

According to the invention, silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:

CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃

H ₃ C - Si - -O- Si - -O-Si - -O-Si - -o- -Si-CH ₃ II

CH ₃ Y CH ₃

CH ₃

O

C ₂ H ₄ - O - C ₃ H ₆ 0 - X

in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number from 1 to 100.

An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183.

Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone (Cetyl dimethicone copolyol), which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.

Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously in the sense of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97 and ABIL® WE 09.

Furthermore, the emulsifier Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicone (Laurylmethiconcopolyol) has proven to be particularly advantageous, which under the

Product name Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning Ltd. is available.

Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is "Octyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside" from Wacker.

All known emulsifiers used for this type of emulsion can be used for a water-in-silicone oil emulsion according to the invention. Water-in-silicone emulsifiers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 methicone [e.g. ABIL EM 90 (Goldschmidt), DC5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Coming)] and any mixture of both emulsifiers.

Emulsions according to the invention which are in the form of a low viscosity (with a viscosity of 3000 to 8000 mPas, measured at 25 ° C. with the Haake Viscotester VT-02) and / or sprayable W / O or W / S emulsion or W / OW / S-mixed emulsions with a viscosity of <1500 mPas (measured at 25 ° C with the Haake Viscotester VT-02) are particularly preferred to contain emulsifiers such as polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate in combination with polysorbate.

W / O emulsions, W / S emulsions or W / OW / S mixed emulsions according to the invention, which are in the form of a soft to firm cream with a viscosity above 9000 mPas (measured at 25 ° C. with the Haake Viscotester VT-02) are present According to the invention, a ratio of emulsifier to lipid phase of 1: 5 to 1:10 is particularly advantageous.

W / O emulsions, W / S emulsions or W / OW / S mixed emulsions according to the invention, which are in the form of a flowable and / or liquid lotion with a viscosity of 3000 to 9000 mPas, according to the invention particularly advantageously assign a ratio of emulsifier Lipid phase from 1:10 to 1:20.

The total amount (active content) of silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously in the range from 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5%. 0% by weight and very particularly preferably 1- 2.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an ointment, cream, lotion or an emulsion foam (French mousse).

In addition to water, the emulsion according to the invention can also contain other ingredients according to the invention, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol and glycerin.

The lipid phase of the emulsion according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. According to the invention, natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin are advantageous, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, steam butter, lanolin (wool wax alcohol, trade name E ucerit der er company Beiersdorf), candella wax, carnauba wax.

Further waxes which are advantageous according to the invention can be synthetic in nature, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, fatty alcohols (C16-C24), paraffin wax, cetyl palmitate, tripalmitin, ceresin, hydrogenated cocosglycerides, C15-C40 alkyl stearyl stearate (for example trade names Kesterwachs K40P, K48P, K70P, the company, Keunen), polyvinyl stearyl ether.

For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyltrimic gemellate, as well as synthetic such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, an oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether {Cetiol OB and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis. It is further preferred pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (z. B. Myritol® 331 by Henkel), Cι ₂ , ₁₃ alkyl lactate, di-C ₁₂ . _13- alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of Ci _∑ .is alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also z. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. The ratio of the oils which are liquid at room temperature to the proportion of the waxes which are solid or semisolid at room temperature in the lipid particles according to the invention is from 0: 100 to 1: 4.

Furthermore, an oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Polydecenes are the preferred substances among the polyofins.

An oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to as NCyls as cyclomethicones, and are arnino-modified (INCI: siliconized) Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which as different A bil wax types b ei T h. G oldschmidt is available. Other silicone oils are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L- Camosin, D-camosin, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. Dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, hept athioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts , Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C. and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as Konyferylbenzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their Derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSθ4) selenium and derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight , based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose. It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine, fumaric acid esters, and / or ß-alanine.

Recipes according to the invention; which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like are particularly suitable for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced regreasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (eg age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

However, other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, substances that soothe and care for the skin can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root. Vitamin D ₃ - analogous tacalcitol, calcipotriol, tacalcitol, colecalciferol and calcitrol (vitamin D ₃ ) and / or fumaric acid esters can also be successfully incorporated into the preparations.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. the senso- Further improve the cosmetic and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, create or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The emulsion according to the invention can advantageously be used as a sunscreen. However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances.

Accordingly, the preparation according to the present invention advantageously contains at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light. The formulation may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase

According to the invention are all embodiments in which the UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparation according to the invention.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethyl hexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxy cinnamic acid (2-ethyl hexyl) ester (2-ethyl hexyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, INCI: ethyl hexyl methoxy cinnamate) and 4-methoxy cinnamate (4-methoxy cinnamate) isophenoxy cinnamate (4-methoxy cinnamate) , INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and polymeric UV filters such as the (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Röche under the Trade name Parsol SLX is available. Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (Ti0 ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ), zirconium (Zr0 ₂ ), silicon ( Si0 ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ 0 ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaS0 ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are coated with a thin film using methods known per se hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (Si0 ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaS0 ₄ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or Alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available from the companies listed under the following names:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4- bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP;

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo -bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1 , 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1, 4- di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name terephthalic dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, such as e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) - benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available, for example, from BASF under the

Trade name Uvinul® A Plus is available.

Benzoxazole derivatives, such as e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma under the trade name UVASorb® K2A.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. • 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH under the trade name Tinosorb® S;

• Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

, 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbuty!) - phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. For example: ^■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

^■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

^■ and UV filters bound to polymers.

^■ 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example under the trade name Parsol SLX from Hoffmann La Roche. Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimfdazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention contain, as the UV filter, one or more triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature and / or the inorganic pigments, in particular titanium dioxide.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the preparation according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. Avalure® grades from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc , Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.

The emulsions according to the invention can also contain all water-soluble and / or oil-soluble UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substances that are permitted under the Cosmetics Regulation.

According to the invention, the compositions contain, in addition to the above-mentioned substances, optionally the additives customary in cosmology, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts , Vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents, self-tanners (eg DHA), depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers , Polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.

The emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives according to the invention. Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc. The table below gives an overview of some preservatives which are advantageous according to the invention:

Also useful in cosmetics are preservatives or preservation aids, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol , Imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if iodopropyl butyl carbamates, parabens (methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben) and / or phenoxyethanol are used as preservatives.

According to the invention, one or more preservatives are advantageous in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less than 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 1% by weight or less than 1% by weight , each based on the total weight of the preparation. The emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains one or more conditioners. Preferred conditioners according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in Section 4 below in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are all listed in the EP 0934956 (p.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent. Some of these compounds are listed under the constituents of the aqueous phase and the oil phase. Further conditioners which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, the compounds named polyquaternium according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI) (in particular polyquaternium-1 to polyquaternium-56).

Advantageously according to the invention, the emulsion according to the invention can contain glitter substances and / or other effect substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention has one or more hydrocolloids in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.1 to 7% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration from 0.3 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The hydrocolloids advantageous according to the invention are agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose derivatives, polysaccharides, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurates / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers and ammonium polyacryl dimethyl tauramides, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas. Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers, which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, also contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH2-COONa. Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.

For the purposes of the present invention, preference is also given to xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt.

An advantageous gelling agent in the sense of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar from northern Atlantic, belonging to the floridae red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.). In particular, the or the stand out Acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers advantageous according to the invention, having the following structure:

R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.

According to the invention, particularly preferred are acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, which are sold under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 by NOVEON Inc. or as Aculyn® 33 by International Specialty Products Corp. are available. The carbomers Carbopol EDT 2001, ETD 2020 and ETD 2050 are also preferred.

Also advantageous are copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Compounds which have the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylic Crosspolymer" are advantageous. Those which are available under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 from NOVEON Inc. are particularly advantageous.

Compounds which carry the INCI acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer are advantageous. Those which are available under the trade names Stabylen 30 from 3V Sigma are particularly advantageous.

Also advantageous are compounds which have the INCI name "acrylates / C12-24 pareth-25 acrylate copolymer" (available under the trade names Synthalen® W2000 from 3V Inc.) and the INCI name "acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer""(available under the trade names A culyn® 22 from the International Specialties Corp.), the I NCI name" acrylates / steareth-20 i taconate copolymer " (available under the trade names Structure 2001® from National Starch), the INCI name "acrylates / aminoacrylates / C 10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer" (available under the trade names Structure Plus® from National Starch) and the like polymers.

According to the invention, it is particularly preferred to use neutralized or partially neutralized polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole from Noveon).

According to the invention, the use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase to reduce the gloss of the emulsion on the skin after application thereof.

The reduction in skin gloss according to the invention can be determined as follows:

Measurement of skin size using a reflection spectrometer

With the help of this parameter, the gloss of the skin surface is determined.

Human skin constantly produces sebum (sebum, surface lipid) in its sebaceous glands, which emerges in droplets from the glandular openings. These sebum drops grow larger especially in the case of a high sebum secretion rate (oily skin) and combine to form a glossy film due to the topography and warmth of the skin surface. A reflection spectrometer (e.g. MCS 500, Zeiss) is used to determine the skin gloss. With light guide technology and a special measuring head, white light is brought onto the skin surface at an entry angle of 60 °. The light reflected or mirrored at the exit angle of likewise 60 ° is fed to the detector and quantified.

Even in the sensory test with subjects who subjectively assess the gloss behavior, the product with microcrystalline cellulose was rated statistically significantly as significantly less shiny. According to the invention is also the use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase to produce a dull, non-sticky feeling on the skin of the emulsion after application thereof.

The use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase to reduce the emulsifier concentration in the emulsion is also in accordance with the invention.

Conventional W / O emulsions have an emulsifier content of 3 to 8% by weight (active content), which according to the invention can be reduced to an active content of approximately 1.5-2% by weight.

Conventional W / S emulsions have an emulsifier content of 3 to 6% by weight (active content), which according to the invention can be reduced to an active content of approximately 1-1.5% by weight.

According to the invention, the use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase to increase the temperature and storage stability of the emulsion.

According to the invention is the use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for the care of the skin as well as for the prophylaxis and therapy of UV-related and / or age-related changes of the skin.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless stated otherwise, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. W / O emulsions,

W / S emulsions

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with an outer lipophilic phase containing a) an aqueous phase, b) a lipophilic phase, c) one or more W / O and / or W / S emulsifiers, d) one or more microcrystalline celluloses , 6) one or more skin moisturizers, in addition to any other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients,

Auxiliaries and additives.

2. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that it a) one or more emulsifiers with an active content of 0.01 to 12% by weight, b) one or more microcrystalline celluloses in an amount of 0.01 up to 2% by weight, c) one or more skin moisturizers in a concentration of 3 to 25% by weight, each based on the total weight of the emulsion.

3. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the microcrystalline celluloses consist of a mixture of microcrystalline cellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose in a mixing ratio of 100% to 0% to 80% to 20%.

4. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion).

5. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that one or more W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula

, in which A and A 'represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals, a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40, X represents a single bond or the group

- CH—

I o

IR ₃ represents

R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,

R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or that the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of

Fatty alcohols with 8 - 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 - 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids a chain length of 8 - 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms,

Triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular special 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-2 4, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 -

24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a chain length ge of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, pentaerythrityl esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol. Methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 - 24, in particular 12 - 18 C-atoms or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they represent ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers.

6. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is a water-in-silicone oil emulsion (W / S emulsion).

7. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to claim 6, characterized in that one or more emulsifiers are selected from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols.

8. Cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that one or more skin moisturizing agents are selected from the group glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, butylene glycol,

Propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid urea and polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5.

9. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for reducing the gloss of the emulsion on the skin, after the application thereof.

10. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for producing a dull, non-sticky feeling on the skin of the emulsion after application thereof.

11. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with a lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for reducing the emulsifier concentration in the emulsion.

12. Use of one or more microcrystalline celluloses in a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, to increase the temperature and

Storage stability of the emulsion.

13. Use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsion with lipophilic outer phase according to one of the preceding claims, for the care of the skin and for the prophylaxis and therapy of UV-light-related and / or age-related changes in the skin.