DE102005026004B4 - Cosmetic preparations containing a special anise fruit extract and higher polyols - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic preparation containing (a) an aqueous fruit extract from anise, which is obtainable by solubilizing anise fruits in water and enzymatically hydrolyzing them, the ratio of raw material to extract being 1/2 and separating soluble and insoluble phases and then filtering or are then sterile filtered, and (b) one or more substances, but at most 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, selected from the group 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol , Ethylhexylglycerol.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from the company SILAB, St. Viance, France, and one or more higher polyols.

Cosmetics can be used to summarize all measures that make changes to the skin and hair for aesthetic reasons or that are used to cleanse the body. Cosmetics therefore means caring for, improving and embellishing the outside of the body in order to please both fellow human beings and themselves in a visible, tangible and smellable way. Cosmetics were used by humans for this purpose thousands of years ago. You colored your lips and face, anointed yourself with valuable oils and bathed in fragrant water.

For a long time, experts have been looking for cosmetic preparations that are effective against wrinkles or cellulite.

A characteristic of cosmetic products which is very essential for the consumer, but which is difficult to quantitatively measure, is a certain invigorating and / or smooth skin feeling and the suppleness of the skin after its application.

Rosy skin tones (such as those obtained by staying in the fresh air, for example) are viewed by consumers as healthy and accordingly desirable, whereas a pale complexion is usually not as desirable.

The object of the present invention was to provide skin-care preparations and preparations for the care of the naturally aged skin, the preparations to care for and beautify the exterior of the body and at the same time to reduce skin wrinkles and eliminate cellulites.

1. (a) einen wässrigen Fruchtextrakt aus Anis, der dadurch erhältlich ist, daß Anis-Früchte in Wasser solubilisiert und enzymatisch hydrolysiert werden, wobei das Verhältnis von Rohmaterial zu Extrakt 1/2 beträgt und lösliche und unlösliche Phasen getrennt und anschließend filtriert oder danach steril filtriert werden, und
2. (b) einen oder mehrere Stoffe, aber maximal 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung gewählt aus der Gruppe 1,2-Hexandiol, 1,6-Hexandiol, 1,2-Octandiol, Ethylhexylglycerin

den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhilft. Eine solche Zubereitung hat den wesentlichen Vorteil gegenüber Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik, dass die im wässrigen Anisextrakt enthaltenen organischen Biomoleküle besser gegen chemischen und mikrobiellen Abbau geschützt sind.It has surprisingly been found to contain a cosmetic preparation

1. (a) an aqueous fruit extract from anise, which can be obtained by solubilizing anise fruits in water and enzymatically hydrolyzing them, the ratio of raw material to extract being 1/2 and separating soluble and insoluble phases and then filtering or subsequently filtering them sterile be, and
2. (b) one or more substances, but at most 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation selected from the group 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, ethylhexylglycerol

remedies the disadvantages of the prior art. Such a preparation has the essential advantage over preparations of the prior art that the organic biomolecules contained in the aqueous anise extract are better protected against chemical and microbial degradation.

In addition, such a preparation has the following further advantages: It promotes the natural regeneration process and cell metabolism of the skin, activates the skin's own protective systems and thus makes the skin more resistant to stress factors, acts against (first) signs of skin aging by reducing lines and expression lines, refining pores and visibly tightening and smoothing the skin, deeply activates the skin's own production of components of the connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (including hyaluronic acids), counteracts the formation of new wrinkles by filling up energy deposits / reserves and skin / cell regeneration improves, rejuvenates the inner skin structure by improving the epidermal-dermal interlocking (papillae), whereby the facial and skin contours are refined and tightened, firms the skin noticeably and visibly and improves skin elasticity.

The WO 04/0 60 312 A1 , the WO 03/077 856 A2 , the JP H06 48934 A as well as the JP2003081736 A could not point the way to the present invention. The JP H06 48934 A discloses - indefinite - anise extracts in combination with 10 wt .-% propylene glycol, but this is hydrophilic and clearly intended as a galenic aid and not as an active ingredient. The JP 2003081736 A discloses preparations with an anise oil and no anise extract.

The combination of anise fruit extracts with one or more substances selected from the group consisting of 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and ethylhexylglycerol provides protection in water Organic biomolecules containing anise extract are achieved against chemical and microbial degradation, so that the extracts are particularly suitable for use in cosmetic preparations and can be incorporated into emulsions with long-term stability.

Bioxilift is an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract). The extract has an amber-like color and has a characteristic anise smell.

The extract is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, but especially potassium ions.

• Dry matter: 40-60 g/l
• Mineral ashes 11-18 g/l
• Total protein 12-20 g/l
• pH 4,5-5,5

The specific composition is:

• Dry matter: 40-60 g / l
• Mineral ashes 11-18 g / l
• Total protein 12-20 g / l
• pH 4.5-5.5

During production, the aniseed fruits are solubilized in water and hydrolyzed enzymatically. The ratio of raw material to extract is ½. Soluble and insoluble phases are separated and then filtered or then sterile filtered. Bioxilift is offered by the company SILAB, France.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase and which, in particular, can advantageously also be free of further oil components.

• • Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsatz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Symrise erhältlich ist;
• • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Symrise erhältlich ist;
• • 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• • Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.
• • Benzoxazol-Derivate, wie z. B. das 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin mit der CAS Nr. 288254-16-0, welches bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb® K2A erhältlich ist.
• • Hydroxybenzophenone, z. B. der 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäure-hexylester (auch: Aminobenzophenon), welcher unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.
• • Triazinderivate, wie z. B. 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist; Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist; 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird; 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725-22-6).
• • Benzotriazole, wie z. B. 2,2'-Methylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol) (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benztriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol), welches z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.
• • 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• • 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon sowie
• • an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter
• • Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen), welches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung Uvinul^□ N 539 T erhältlich ist.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate-isopentylinnamate-isopentamido-isopentyl isophenyl : Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche. Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also:

• • Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium set with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Symrise;
• • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or from Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise;
• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo- bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding ones 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid). Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No .: 90457-82-2) and is, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from available from Chimex;
• • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
• • Benzoxazole derivatives, such as. B. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine with the CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.
• Hydroxybenzophenones, e.g. B. the 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.
• Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH; Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150; 2- [4 , 6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).
• • Benzotriazoles, such as. B. 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (INCI: methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), which z. B. is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
• • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• • esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
• • UV filters bound to polymers
• • Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^□ N 539 T.

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4th -methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any combination with one another .

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The total amount of the filter substances is in the range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations - chosen to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.
Inorganic pigments for the purposes of the invention are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), Zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character being formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by methods known per se. For the purposes of the present invention, the various surface coatings can also contain water. Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed: Trade name Coating. Manufacturer MT-100TV Aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid Tayca Corporation MT-100Z Aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid Tayca Corporation Eusolex T-2000 Alumina / Simethicone Merck KgaA Titanium dioxide T805 (Uvinul TiO ₂ ) Octyltrimethylsilane Degussa Tioveil AQ 10PG Alumina / silica Solaveil / Uniquema Eusolex T-aqua Water / alumina / sodium metaphosphate Merck

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed: Trade name Coating Manufacturer Z-Cote HP1 2% dimethicone BASF Z-Cote / BASF ZnO NDM 5% dimethicone MR

It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains alpha-hydroxy acids. It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains glycerol. It is further preferred if the preparation is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion. It is further preferred if substances with a particle diameter of 10-250 nm, preferably 10-100 nm, are selected as the coated titanium dioxide. It is further preferred if the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid. It is further preferred if the preparation has a pH of 3 to 10, preferably 4 to 8.

• • der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• • der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• • der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• • der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• • der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)n-R',
• • der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)n-C(O)-R',
• • der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• • der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• • der Cholesterinethoxylate
• • der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• • der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH2-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• • der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• • der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• • der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• • der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)n-R',
• • der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• • der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)n-R',
• • der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CHa)-O-)n-C(O)-R',
• • der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)n-H,
• • der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• • der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• • der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• • der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• • der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)n-CH₂-COOH
• • der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• • der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• • der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• • der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n- Ym-R',
• • der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Ym-H,.

The invention also includes the use of a preparation according to the invention against wrinkles and / or for increasing skin elasticity.
Preparations as emulsions according to the present invention contain one or more emulsifiers. O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g. B .:

• • the fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• The ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-R ',
• • the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) nC (O) -R ',
• • the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• • the ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• • the cholesterol ethoxylates
• • the ethoxylated triglycerides
• • The alkylether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH2-O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• • The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• • the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) n-R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• • the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) n-R ',
• • the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CHa) -O-) nC (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) nH,
• • the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• • the propoxylated sorbitan esters
• • the cholesterol propoxylates
• • the propoxylated triglycerides
• • The alkylether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) n-CH ₂ -COOH
• • The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• • The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• • the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n - Ym-R ',
• • The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Ym-H ,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values from 11 to 18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values from 14.5 to 15, 5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

• Polyethylenglycol(13)stearylether (Steareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)stearylether (Steareth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)stearylether (Steareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)stearylether (Steareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)stearylether (Steareth-17), Polyethylenglycol-(18)stearylether (Steareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)stearylether (Steareth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)stearylether (Steareth-20),
• Polyethylenglycol(12)isostearylether (Isosteareth-12), Polyethylenglycol(13)isostearylether (Isosteareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)isostearylether (Isosteareth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)isostearylether (Isosteareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)isostearylether (Isosteareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)isostearylether (Isosteareth-17), Polyethylenglycol-(18)isostearylether (lsosteareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)isostearylether (Isosteareth-19-), Polyethylenglycol(20)isostearylether (Isosteareth-20),
• Polyethylenglycol(13)cetylether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)cetylether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)cetylether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)cetylether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)cetylether (Ceteth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)cetylether (Ceteth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)cetylether (Ceteth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)cetylether (Ceteth-20), Polyethylenglycol(13)isocetylether (lsöceteth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)isocetylether (Isoceteth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)isocetylether (Isoceteth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)-isocetylether (Isoceteth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)isocetylether (Isoceteth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)isocetylether (Isoceteth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)isocetylether (Isoceteth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)isocetylether (Isoceteth-20),
• Polyethylenglycol(12)oleylether (Oleth-12), Polyethylenglycol(13)oleylether (Oleth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)oleylether (Oleth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)oleylether (Oleth-15),
• Polyethylenglycol(12)laurylether (Laureth-12), Polyethylenglycol(12)isolaurylether (Isolaureth-12).
• Polyethylenglycol(13)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-18), Polyethylenglycol-(19)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-20),

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

• Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
• Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19-), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) ,
• Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (Ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (Ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (Ceteth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (lsöceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
• Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
• Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).
• Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearylether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearylether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearylether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20),

• Polyethylenglycol(20)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(21)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(22)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(23)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(24)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(25)stearat,
• Polyethylenglycol(12)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(13)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(14)-isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(15)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(16)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(17)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(18)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(19)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(21)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(22)-isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(23)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(24)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(25)isostearat,
• Polyethylenglycol(12)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(13)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(14)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(15)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(16)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(17)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(18)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(19)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(20)oleat Als ethoxylierte Alkylethercarbonsäure bzw. deren Salz kann vorteilhaft das Natriumlaureth-11-carboxylat verwendet werden.

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

• Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
• Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
• Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate The sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate 20, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Particularly preferred O / W emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, stearic acid, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C - Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or uns ttigter, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmonoisostearat, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl, arachidyl, behenyl, Isobehenylalkohol, selachyl, Chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

For the purposes of the present invention, the emulsions can also advantageously also contain hydrocolloids (also called thickeners or gel formers) which can stabilize the preparations.

Hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention are agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, xanthan gum, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose derivatives, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers , Polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas are used.

in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann. Other advantageous gel formers are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". The Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous. Carbopole are also advantageous gel formers for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Examples of advantageous carbopoles are types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Likewise ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM / MA Decadien Crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide, ammonium dimethyltauramide / vinylformamide copolymer, copolymers / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyltaurate, polyacryloyldimethyltauramide, polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof. Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are: magnesium and / or aluminum silicates and, for example, methyl celluloses, as which the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers, which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Besonders bevorzugt werden Copolymere des Polyvinylpyrrolidons eingesetzt, beispielsweise das PVP Hexadecen Copolymer und das PVP Eicosen Copolymer, welche unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Antaron V216 und Antaron V220 bei der GAF Chemicals Cooperation erhältlich sind, sowie das Tricontayl PVP und dergleichen mehr.In order to improve the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations, it can be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations. According to the prior art, z. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF), C _20-40 carboxylic acid with polyethylene (Performacid 350 from New Phase Technologies) and film former from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP):

Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone are particularly preferably used, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, and the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

However, it is disadvantageous for preparations of this type which contain film formers in an effective (ie increasing the water resistance) concentration that they leave a sticky and greasy impression on the skin when used.
In addition to the influence of the base, the binding ability of the UV filter in or on the skin is of great importance for the water resistance of the formulation. It is understandable that oil-soluble UV filters are better bound to the (lipophilic) surface of the skin or are more difficult to wash off from it than water-soluble UV filters.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropylbutylcarbamate (e.g. those available from Lonza under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as Methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic applications can be used as inexpensive but nevertheless optional antioxidants.

Water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation .

Further active substances to be used advantageously in the sense of the present invention are those which have a positive influence on the condition of the skin, such as in particular active substances for positively influencing the aging skin, which reduce the formation of wrinkles or existing wrinkles. Especially advantageous are bioquinones, especially ubiquinone (Q10) and ubiquinol, folic acid and its derivatives (especially tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (especially niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, carnitine, biotin, isoflavonoids, lipoic acid, ginkgo extracts, hops - and hop-malt extracts. Also agents that promote the restructuring of the connective tissue, such as natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts - such as. B. Soy and clover extracts - can be used very well in the formulations according to the invention. It has also been shown that the formulations are particularly suitable, active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as NaCI, Marine minerals) and osmolytes (such as inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)). In a similar way, the incorporation of active ingredients to alleviate or positively influence irritative skin conditions has proven to be advantageous, be it for sensitive skin in general or for skin irritated by noxious substances (UV light, chemicals). Active substances such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcon A, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, especially cyclooxygenase and leukotriene metabolism, especially 5-lipoxygenase, but also 5-lipoxvgenase inhibitor protein, FLAP. Creatine and creatinine in particular are suitable active substances for creating and / or renewing an (energy) depot and for activating the repair of various cellular structures, in particular DNA. The incorporation of pigmentation modulators also proved to be advantageous. Active substances are to be mentioned here which reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or reduce the appearance of age spots and / or lighten existing age spots. Examples include tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid) and various extracts of licorice, arbutin, alpha-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, pyridoxamine, niacinamide,
Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and / or derivatives, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or positively influencing the hydration of the horny layer after application or distribution on the skin surface .

Overall, the skin's own barrier function is normalized, the skin is noticeably refreshed and revitalized, and the skin appears smoother. The deeply effective increase in moisture significantly reduces swelling and dark circles, the formation of the skin's own lipids is stimulated and the natural anti-aging functions of the skin and the performance of the skin as a whole are stimulated.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, panthenol and urea.

The oil phase of the preparations in the sense of the present invention advantageously contains non-polar ones, for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane . Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the content of polar oils with a polarity of less than 20 mN / m (interfacial tension against water) is less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.Silicone oils are synthetic compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon are saturated by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.). The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

It is advantageous according to the invention to use cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) as the silicone oil. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which INCI also refers to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone) and silicone waxes. B. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

1. (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_1,5 und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C_1-24-Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;
2. (b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2)

• • im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und
• • im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.

Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung liegen das oder die Siloxanelastomere in Form sphärischer Puder oder in Form von Gelen vor.The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

1. (a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _1.5 and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ , the individual radicals R each independently of one another being hydrogen, C _1-24 alkyl (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1 ;
2. (b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)

• • is in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and
• • is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.

Advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.

It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof. Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, available from Grant Industries Inc. AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is very exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the gel.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) to be in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples 2, 3, 7-10 and examples W / O pins do not fall within the scope of the claims.

Bioxylift was used as the Pimpinella anis fruit extract.

O / W Cream - Example 1

example 1 Glyceryl stearate citrate 2nd Shea butter 1 Stearyl alcohol 3rd Cyclometicone 2nd Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 2nd Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 5 Dicaprylyl ether 3rd Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.1 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.1 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 1 Ethylhexyl triazone 1 Retinyl palmitate 0.1 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.6 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.5 Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.5 Carbomer 0.3 EDTA 0.2 Glycerin 10th Fillers / additives (SiO ₂ , BHT) 0.2 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

O / W day cream - example 2

For example 2nd Glyceryl stearate, self-emulsifying 5 Stearyl alcohol 2nd Shea butter 1 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3rd Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 3rd Squlane 1 Jojoba oil 1 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3rd Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (octocrylene) 5 Ethylhexyltriazon 1 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 2nd Citric acid, sodium salt 0.1 TiO2 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.3 Hexamidine diisethionate 0.04 EDTA 0.2 Methyl propanediol 2nd Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.8 Glycerin 10th Carbomer 0.2 Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.2 Additives (distarch phosphate, SiO ₂ , BHT) 1 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

Sunscreen Cream - Example 3

example 3rd Glyceryl stearate 3rd PEG-40 stearate 1 Cetearyl alcohol 3rd Myristyl myristate 1 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3rd Coconut glycerides 2nd Octyldodecanol 2nd Butylene glycol caprylate / caprate 3rd Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2nd Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2nd Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 1 Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.5 Methyl propanediol 2nd Phenoxyethanol 0.5 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.2 C10-30 alkyl / acrylate cross polymer 0.1 Dipropylene glycol 3rd Glycerin 7 Additives (BHT, EDTA) 0.4 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

After Sun Gel - Example 4

example 6 Cetearyl alcohol 2nd Shea butter 1 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 2nd Octyldodecanol 1 Dicaprylyl carbonate 4th Dimethicone 2nd Polydecene 2nd Methyl palmitate 2nd Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.3 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.05 Iminodisuccinate 0.2 Ethanol 2nd Allantoin 0.1 Licochalcone (Glyceryca inflata extract) 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.4 Hexanediol 2nd Carragenan 0.1 Carbomer 0.2 Glycerin 5 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

After Shave Gel - Example 5

example 6 Triceteareth-4-phosphate 0.5 Cyclometicone 2.0 Octyldodecanol 1.0 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3.0 Methyl palmitate 2.0 Bis-ethyl hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 0.5 Allantoin 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Ethanol 5.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.4 Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.2 Carbomer 0.1 Distarch phosphate 1.5 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.5 Glycerin 4.0 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

O / W Cream - Example 6

example 7 Glyceryl sterate 2.5 PEG-40 stearate 1 Cetyl alcohol 3rd Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1 Myristyl myristates 2nd C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4th Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 2nd Dicaprylyl carbonate 3rd Dimethylpolysiloxane (Dimethicone) 2nd Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (octocrylene) 5 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 2nd Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1 Pimpinella anise fruit extract 2nd Alpha-glucosylrutin 0.1 Citric acid 0.8 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.4 iodopropynyl butyl carbamate 0.05 Octanediol 3rd Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.3 Nylon microparticles 1 Glycerin 10th Xanthan gum 0.2 Additives (distarch phosphate, EDTA, BHT) 0.5 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

O / W Cream - Example 7

example 8th Polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate 3rd Behenyl alcohol 2nd C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3rd Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 2nd Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 2nd Hydrogenated polydecene 1 Dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) 2nd Octyldodecanol 2nd Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 1.5 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5 Pimpinella anise fruit extract 1 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.1 EDTA 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 Methyl propanediol 3rd iodopropynyl butyl carbamate 0.05 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.4 Carbomer 0.2 Xanthan gum 0.1 Glycerin 5 Additives (distarch phosphate, talc, BHT) 0.5 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

O / W Cream - Example 8

example 9 Cetearyl glucoside 3rd Methyl palmitate 2nd Stearyl alcohol 3rd C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2nd Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 3rd Cyclometicone 2nd Dicarprylyl carbonate 3rd Polydecene 4th Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5 Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2nd Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.5 Retinyl palmitate 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 1 Trisodium EDTA 0.1 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.4 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.5 Hexanediol 3rd Xanthan gum 0.2 Aluminum starch octenyl succinate 1 Glycerin 6 Additives (talc, BHT, dye) 1 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

Example 9: W / O cream

Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate 5.0 Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5 Cetearyl alcohol 2nd Cetyl alcohol 2nd C12-15 alkyl benzoate 8th Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 6 Octyldodecanol 5 Octamethyltetrasiloxane (cyclomethicone) 2nd Lactic acid 1 Citric acid, sodium salt 0.5 Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1 Ethylhexyltriazon 1 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3rd Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.2 Tocopheryl acetate 1 Retinyl palmitate 0.05 Methyl propanediol 2nd p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.1 Glycerin 7 Fillers (EDTA, BHT) 0.3 Perfume q.s. water Ad 100

Example 10 Microemulsion

1 Lecithin 1.8 PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 5.2 Dicaprylyl ether 7.0 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (parabens) 0.1 Diazolidinyl urea 0.2 2-ethylhexylglycerol 0.5 Tricontayl PVP 0.3 Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.2 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Glycerin 5 Dipropylene glycol 3rd Additives (talc, BHT, EDTA) 0.5 Perfume q.s. water ad 100

Examples W / O pens

Care stick Concealer Foundation pen Sunscreen stick Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - 8th 5 5 8th Octyldodecanol 7 5 5 8th Carpylyl carbonate 3rd Dicaprylyl ether 2nd Paraffin oil 2nd Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 2nd 4th 8th C12-15 alkyl benzoates 2nd Isopopyl palmitate 1 Jojoba oil 2nd 1 Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 3rd 3.5 2nd Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.5 1.5 2nd PEG-30 di-polyhydroxystearate 2.5 Sucrose distearate 0.5 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 9 2nd Cetyl palmitate 2.5 C16-36 alkyl stearates 14 1 2nd 1 C20-40 alkyl stearates 8th 8th 9 Carnauba wax 1.5 1.5 Beeswax 0.5 Candelilla wax 1 PVP / Eicosene copolymer 1 1 Micronized titanium dioxide 2nd 4th Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (octocrylene) 2nd 3.6 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2nd 3.6 Pimpinella anise fruit extract 0.2 0.1 0.3 0.1 Nylon-12 3rd Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) 2nd 3rd Boron nitride 3rd Lauroyl lysine 0.5 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl) 0.5 1 Silica LDP 1 PTFE 2.5 PMMA 6 3rd Titanium dioxide Al ₂ O ₃ coated 7 6 Iron oxides 4th 4th Ultramarine 0.5 0.6 Pearlescent pigments 3rd Rococo S1 0.4 Germall II 0.25 Glydant Plus 0.3 Glycerin 2nd 3rd 5 3rd Methyl propanediol 1 2nd 1 2nd Perfume, BHT, neutralizing agent, q.s q.s q.s q.s water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Claims (7)

Containing cosmetic preparation (a) an aqueous fruit extract from anise, which is obtainable by solubilizing anise fruits in water and enzymatically hydrolyzing them, the ratio of raw material to extract being 1/2 and separating soluble and insoluble phases and then filtering or subsequently filtering them sterile be, and (b) one or more substances, but not more than 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, selected from the group 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, ethylhexylglycerol. Preparation after Claim 1 , characterized in that it additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that substances with a particle diameter of 10-250 nm, preferably 10-100 nm, are selected as the coated titanium dioxide. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a pH of 3 to 10, preferably 4 to 8. Use of a preparation according to one of the preceding claims against wrinkles. Use of a preparation according to one of the preceding claims for increasing skin elasticity.