DE10217255A1 - Phytochelatins are used to increase the stability of cosmetic compositions which are in the form of emulsions, dispersions or gels - Google Patents

Abstract

Use is claimed of phytochelatins in increasing the stability of cosmetic compositions which are in the form of O/W-, W/O-, W/O/W- or O/W/O-emulsions, hydrodispersions, oleodispersions, hydrogels or oleogels.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations, Containing active ingredients to protect sensitive skin from irritation and use such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care. In an advantageous embodiment, the present invention an application which allows the stiffness of emulsions, Boost gels, aqueous preparations or fat formulations.

The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is important Barrier layer of particular importance u. a. for protection against environmental influences and Dehydration. The horny layer is constantly worn out in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.

A skin model that is widespread in the professional world today regards the stratum corneum as a Component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In In this model, the corneocytes (horn cells) correspond to the bricks, which are complicated Compound lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.

In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on it the smoothness of the skin. Unlike the sebum lipids, which do not have a closed film on them of the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the Lipids from the upper layers of the skin are very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore usually contain cosmetics, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, there is also the physical behavior of these substances matter. Therefore the development of very well biocompatible Emulsifiers or surfactants with liquid-crystalline properties are desirable. In order to formulated products support the liquid crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the Stratum Corneums and thus improve the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous if the molecular components of which are naturally present in the Epidermis occurring substances exist.

Cosmetic skin care means primarily that the natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, the absorption of toxic or allergenic substances may increase Substances or for infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

The aim of skin care is also to reduce the fat and fat caused by daily washing Compensate for skin water loss. This is especially important when the natural Regeneration capacity is not sufficient. In addition, skin care products are said to exist Protect environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more Medications in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, it becomes clean Differentiation between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products referred to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. Cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions, i.e. metastable two or Multi-phase systems in which the individual phases are in the liquid state. The The most common emulsions are O / W and W / O emulsions. Rarer dosage forms are multiple emulsions, i.e. those which are in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous phase in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, z. B. W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

In order to be able to guarantee the metastability of emulsions, as a rule Surface-active substances, i.e. emulsifiers, are necessary.

In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is completely harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, like ultimately every chemical substance, can in individual cases cause allergic or hypersensitivity reactions.

So it is known that certain particularly sensitive people Light dermatoses triggered by certain emulsifiers and simultaneous exposure to sunlight become.

It is possible to produce emulsifier-free preparations, which are used, for example, in a aqueous phase dispersed oil droplets, similar to an O / W emulsion. A prerequisite for this can be that the continuous aqueous phase is the dispersed phase has stabilizing gel framework and other circumstances more. Such systems will occasionally called hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, whichever is the disperse and which is the continuous phase.

However, it is neither necessary nor possible for cosmetic galenics to approach emulsifiers entirely do without, especially since there is a certain selection of particularly mild emulsifiers. However, there is a lack of a satisfactorily large variety of the prior art such emulsifiers, which then also milder the application spectrum accordingly skin-compatible cosmetic preparations would widen significantly.

Thus, an object of the present invention was cosmetic or dermatological To provide preparations with excellent skin-care properties.

A disadvantage of O / W emulsions in particular is often their lack of stability against higher electrolyte concentrations, which manifests itself in phase separation. Although this can Occasionally lead to problems with W / O emulsions as well, but by no means occurs there in the foreground as with O / W systems. Of course, this can often be achieved through suitable Selecting the emulsifier system to some extent remedy the situation, but it does occur just as often other disadvantages.

On the other hand, it is often desirable to use certain electrolytes to control their to be able to use other physical, chemical or physiological properties.

There are also increased heavy metal concentrations - due to manufacturing through manufacturing in steel containers, agitators, lines etc. - the stability of cosmetic Preparations considerably. By complexing interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be prevented.

Complexing agents, especially chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which contribute to The presence of one or more polybasic complexing agents, i.e. chelators, metallacycles represent. Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand has more than one Coordination point occupied at a central atom. So in this case normally elongated compounds to form rings through complex formation via a metal atom or ion closed. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that with the metal reacting compound contains two or more atomic groups, which act as electron donors Act.

A disadvantage of many chelators is that they are almost impossible to biodegrade must be entered in the ecological water cycle. By Solubilization of precipitated or bound in the sediment - and therefore relatively harmless in itself - In the worst case, heavy metal ions can contribute to their reactivation.

Another object of the present invention was therefore to find solutions discover cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, in particular O / W emulsions, which compared to increased electrolyte concentrations or increased ionic strengths or Heavy metal ions are stable.

Usual, and more and more widespread cosmetic and dermatological forms of preparation are gels.

In the technical sense, gels are understood to mean: Relatively stable, light deformable disperse systems from at least two components, which usually consist of a - mostly solid - colloidally divided substance from long-chain molecular groups (e.g. Gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold and a liquid Dispersing agents (e.g. water) exist. The colloidally divided substance is often called thickening or Called gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersant, whereby individual colloidal particles through electrostatic interaction with each other can be more or less firmly linked. The dispersant, which is the network surrounds, is characterized by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, d. i.e., a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels polar dispersant (especially: water), whereas a predominantly non-polar one Gelling agent preferably gelled non-polar dispersing agent.

Strong electrostatic interactions, for example in Hydrogen bonds between gelling agent and dispersing agent, but also between Dispersant molecules are realized with each other, can also lead to strong crosslinking of the dispersant. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100% water (in addition, for example, about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent) and quite solid Have consistency. The water content is in ice-like structural elements, so that gels therefore originate from their name [from lat. "gelatum" = "frozen" about the alchemical expression "gelatina" (16th century) for nhdt. "Gelatine"] do justice.

Cosmetic and pharmaceutical galenics also include lipogels and oleogels (from waxes, fats and fatty oils) and carbogels (from paraffin or petrolatum) common. In practice, a distinction is made between oleogels, which are practically anhydrous, Hydrogels, which are practically fat-free. Most of the time, gels are transparent. In the Cosmetic or pharmaceutical galenics are generally characterized by gels semi-solid, often flowable consistency.

So-called surfactant gels are also common preparations of the prior art. This means systems that, in addition to water, have a high concentration Emulsifiers typically have more than about 25% by weight, based on the Total composition. Solubilize in these surfactant gels, also "surfactant gels" called oil components, microemulsion gels are obtained, which are also called "ringing gels ". By adding nonionic emulsifiers, for example Alkyl polyglycosides, cosmetically more elegant microemulsion gels can be obtained.

It has been shown to be surprising, and that is the solution to these problems that the Use of one or more phytochelatins to achieve or increase the Stability of cosmetic preparations which are in the form of OW, W / O, W / O / W, or O / W / O emulsions, hydrodispersions, oleodispersions, hydrogels or oleogels present, remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

Furthermore, it was not foreseeable for the expert that the Preparations according to the invention have higher stability and are better Biocompatibility would be characterized as the preparations of the prior art.

Phytochelatins (CAS No. 98726-08-0) are characterized by the following structure:

(γ-Glu-Cys) _n -X

n takes values from 2 to 11,
X can be selected independently of n from the group Gly (actual phytochelatin),
β-Ala, Glu, Gln (homo-phytochelatine), Ser (hydroxymethyl-phytochelatin and the hydroxyl group terminating the C-terminus (desglycyl-phytochelatin)).
(Glu = glutamic acid, Cys = cysteine, β-Ala = β-alanine, Ser = serine, Gly = glycine)

The basic structure of the actual phytochelatins is represented by the following structure:


n assumes values from 2 to 11.

Phytochelatins are known to act as complexing agents. They are considered by plants Reaction to heavy metal pollution formed (Cobbett C. S. (2000): Phytochelatin biosynthesis and function in heavy metal detoxification. Curr. Opin. Plant Biol. 3: 211-216). In their detoxification function corresponds to the metallothioneins of the animal kingdom (Grill E., Winnacker E.-L., Zenk M.H. (1987): Phytochelatins, a class of heavy metal binding peptides from plants, are functionally analogous to metallothioneins. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci USA 84: 439-443.).

Preparations according to the invention are advantageous in that they contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.05-3.0% by weight, of one or more phytochelatins characterized, each based on the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous for the content to be conventional Complexing agents, such as those selected from the group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, Hydroxyethylene diamine triacetic acid (HOEDTA) and its anions, diethylene aminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their To keep anions low or to do without them entirely. Anyway, should be a salary of about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparations such complexing agents are preferably not exceeded.

The preparation of preparations according to the invention takes place according to the usual rules familiar to the expert.

It is possible and advantageous to use the phytochelatine or at any time add the rest of the ingredients to the manufacturing process.

The cosmetic preparations. Preparations according to the invention can be cosmetic Contain auxiliaries, as are usually used in such preparations, for. B. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, Insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with coloring effect, thickening agents, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Preparations can also advantageously be preparations according to the invention Contain substances that absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of Filter substances e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, is in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin protect the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a Use sunscreen for your hair.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzosäureamylester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4- isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester,
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.

If the preparations contain preparations according to the invention UVB filter substances, these can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters advantageous according to the invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (die entprehenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3- bornylidenmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure bezeichnet.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo- 3-bornylidene methyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g. the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) Designated 10-sulfonic acid.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters, which are usually used in cosmetics Preparations are included. These substances are preferably Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, especially 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) - propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. It can be used for the amounts used in the UVB combination.

According to the invention, cosmetic and dermatological preparations advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), Zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, although not mandatory if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i. that is are treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic Layer.

One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification

nTiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ nTiO ₂ (surface)

is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline Solids, for example inorganic micropigments in the inventive Preparations are to be incorporated, including anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric Contain surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that contain organic, non-polar substances Can dissolve water.

• - anionische Tenside,
• - kationische Tenside,
• - amphotere Tenside und
• - nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOHX ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. B. Na ⁺ .

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl- hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. AcylLactylate, lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. Alaninate

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z. B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12-14 Olefinsulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie
Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12-13 Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. acyl isethionates, e.g. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that has 4 alkyl or aryl groups is covalently linked. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected are from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or Cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Advantageous especially cetyltrimethylammonium salts are to be used.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
• 6. Sucroseester, -Ether
• 7. Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
• 6. sucrose esters, ether
• 7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more non-ionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can have a concentration of between 1 and 95% by weight the preparations according to the invention are present, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkylbenzoate;
• - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such. B. castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention is advantageously selected the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group the saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the Fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, Palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in the sense to use the present invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2-200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (eg decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and are also advantageous those made from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

However, it is also advantageous to use silicone oils of a constitution similar to that above to select designated compounds whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example are polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example Polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone Copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageously alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, Isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore lower alcohols C number, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or several thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from the Silicon dioxide group, aluminum silicates.

According to the invention, preparations present as emulsions contain in particular advantageously one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be chosen are from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

According to the invention, preparations present as hydrogels contain one or more Hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group become.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and resins form or extracts from aquatic plants. This group can be beneficial in the sense of the present invention, for example gum arabic, Carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, Chondrus, xanthan gum.

Another advantage is the use of derivatized gums such. B. hydroxypropyl Guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, chitin and Chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. B. methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as B. montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as. B. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

Among the polyacrylates are e.g. B. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. B. polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

According to the invention, preparations present as emulsions contain one or more Emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

• a) Partialfettsäureester und Fettsäureester mehrwertiger Alkohole und deren ethoxylierte Derivate (z. B. Glycerylmonostearate, Sorbitanstearate, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate)
• b) ethoxilierte Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren
• c) ethoxilierte Fettamine, Fettsäureamide, Fettsäurealkanolamide
• d) Alkylphenolpolyglycolether (z. B. Triton X)

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X)

• a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat)
• b) Fettalkoholsulfate
• c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

• a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine
• c) Imidazolinderivate

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) Imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, including beeswax, wool wax, Lecithin and sterols belong to it.

• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• - der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• - der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• - der Cholesterinethoxylate
• - der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH und n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• - der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• - der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• - der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• - der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• - der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• - der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H,.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g. B .:

• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - The ethoxylated triglycerides
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The propoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, particularly advantageous with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated radicals R and R ' exhibit. Do the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or are Isoalkyl derivatives before, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or above.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) - stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) .
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt, sodium laureth- 11-carboxylate can be used.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides Glycerides can be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, Polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also cheap to use the sorbitan esters from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 Carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 -18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and saturated sorbitan esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, Glyceryl.

The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the invention. Example 1 W / O cream % by weight Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 10.00 petrolatum 4.00 PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 3.00 glycerin 2.00 Wool alcohol 1.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 phytochelatin 0.20 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 20.00 glycerin 5.00 petrolatum 4.00 Glucosesesquiisostearat 2.50 phytochelatin 0.80 phytoene 1.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 8.00 octyl 5.00 petrolatum 4.00 isopropyl palmitate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 2.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 PEG 40 castor oil 0.50 sodium cetylstearyl 0.50 Sodium carbomer 0.40 alpha-glycosyl rutin 0.20 phytochelatin 0.02 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 7.00 avocado oil 4.00 sodium lactate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 glyceryl 2.00 phytochelatin 0.4 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% lecithin 6.00 shea butter 3.00 sorbitol 3.00 Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00 Xanthan gum 1.40 phytochelatin 1.20 Sodium PCA 0.50 sodium citrate 0.50 taurine 0.20 glycine 0.20 urea 0.20 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% cyclomethicone 2.00 Cetyl dimethicone copolyol 0.20 PEG 22-dodecyl copolymer 3.00 Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 2.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.80 octyl 5.80 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.00 phytochelatin 0.50 biotin 0.50 ZnSO ₄ 0.70 Na ₄ EDTA 0.30 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% cyclomethicone 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil + sodium cetylstearyl sulfate 2.50 glyceryl 1.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.10 Laurylmethicone copolyol 2.00 octyl 3.00 castor oil 4.00 glycerin 3.00 Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.30 octyl 5.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.50 phytochelatin 0.20 alpha-tocopheryl acetate 1.00 Trisodium EDTA 1.50 Preservative dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% octyl 5.00 castor oil 4.00 octyl 3.00 glycerin 3.00 phytochelatin 3.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil + sodium cetylstearyl sulfate 2.50 Cyclomethicone 2.00 Laurylmethicone copolyol 2.00 Trisodium EDTA 1.50 glyceryl 1.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.75 Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.30 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.10 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% ethanol 28,00 phytochelatin 0.80 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs Propane / butane 25/75 ad 100.00 Wt .-% Sodium laureth sulfate (27.5% solution) 48,00 Cocoamidopropyl betaine (33% solution) 5.00 Sodium cocoyl glutamate (25% solution) 5.00 phytochelatin 1.60 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 PEG-100 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.50 sodium benzoate 0.45 sodium salicylate 0.30 IDS 2.00 citric acid 0.50 Perfume qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% Sodium myreth sulfate (70% solution) 7.00 Lauryl glucoside (50% solution) 5.00 Sodium cocoamphoacetate (36% solution) 18,00 PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmat 0.40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.00 phytochelatin 0.70 Diammonium citrate 0.12 Sodium benzoate 0.40 Sodium salicylate 0.30 IDS 3.00 Citric acid 1.20 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% paraffin oil 45,00 soybean oil 24,30 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (25% aqueous solution) 28,00 Sodium benzoate 0.30 Sodium salicylate 0.20 IDS 1.50 Perfume, antioxidants qs water ad 100.00 Wt .-% Polyquaternium-10 0.50 sodium laureth sulfate 9.00 cocoamidopropyl 2.50 pearlizing 2.00 phytochelatin 1.50 Preservative, perfume, thickener, pH adjustment and solubilizer qs water ad 100.00

The pH is adjusted to 6. Example 14 clear conditioner shampoo Wt .-% Polyquaternium-10 0.50 sodium laureth sulfate 9.00 cocoamidopropyl 2.50 phytochelatin 1.50 folic acid 0.20 Preservative, perfume, thickener, pH adjustment and solubilizer qs water ad 100.00

The pH is adjusted to 6. Example 15 clear light shampoo with volume effect Wt .-% sodium laureth sulfate 10.00 cocoamidopropyl 2.50 phytochelatin 1.00 Preservative, perfume, thickener, pH adjustment and solubilizer qs water ad 100.00

The pH is adjusted to 5.5. Example 16 Hair Treatment Wt .-% hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.50 cetrimonium 1.00 glycerin 3.00 cetearyl 2.50 glyceryl stearate 2.00 phytochelatin 0.80 Preservative, perfume, pH adjustment qs water ad 100.00

The pH is adjusted to 3.5 Example 17 Hair Conditioner Wt .-% glycerin 3.00 behentrimonium 1.00 hydroxyethyl 0.20 cetearyl 3.00 phytochelatin 1.00 folic acid 0.80 Preservative, perfume, pH adjustment qs water ad 100.00

The pH is adjusted to 3.0. Examples 18 + 19 soaps basic soap Wt .-% sodium tallowate 68,00 sodium cocoate 17.00 Aqua 12,00 NaCl 0.45 IDS 0.50 Natriumetidronat 0.09 glycerin 2.50 Sodium palm kernel fatty acid salts ad 100.00 Wt .-% Wool alcohol 2.00 Paraffinum liquidum 33,00 Prunus dulcis 7.00 Disteardimoniumhectorit 1.00 TiO ₂ 13,00 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% basic soaps 92,00 color slurry 3.00 paraffin 2.00 Perfume 1.00 phytochelatin 0.50 Na ₂ S ₂ O ₃ 0.40 octyldodecanol 0.50 water ad 100.00

The basic soap noodles are dosed with the color slurry and the other components in a conventional soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated sieve), homogenized by repeated mixing, discharged via an extruder, cut and processed into pieces in the usual way. Example 19 Soap Wt .-% basic soaps 86,00 color slurry 3.00 talc 6.00 paraffin 1.00 Perfume 1.00 phytochelatin 0.50 Na ₂ S ₂ O ₃ 0.40 octyldodecanol 0.40 water ad 100.00

The basic soap noodles are dosed with the color slurry and the other components in a conventional soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated sieve), homogenized by repeated mixing, discharged via an extruder, cut and processed into pieces in the usual way. Example 20 Syndet basic soaps Wt .-% sodium tallowate 67.80 Sodium cocoate / sodium palm kernel fatty acid salts 16.95 glycerin 2.50 NaCl 0.40 IDS 0.40 Natriumetidronat 0.09 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% basic soaps 11.00 Natriumacylamphoacetat 30.00 stearic acid 23.00 paraffin 8.00 talc 5.00 coconut 3.00 paraffin 2.00 Polyethylene glycol-150 2.00 phytochelatin 1.25 TiO ₂ 0.50 panthenol 0.15 Wool alcohol 0.10 water ad 100.00

Claims (2)

1. Use of one or more phytochelatins to achieve or increase the Stability of cosmetic preparations which are in the form of OW, W / O, W / O / W, or O / W / O emulsions, hydrodispersions, oleodispersions, hydrogels or oleogels available. 2. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized characterized in that one or more phytochelatins in a content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05-3.0% by weight, is or are present, in each case based on the Total weight of the composition.