WO2002069911A2

WO2002069911A2 - Active substance combination consisting of $g(a)-liponic acid and bioquinones

Info

Publication number: WO2002069911A2
Application number: PCT/EP2002/002321
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Raschke; Uwe SCHÖNROCK; Nadine Voigt
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2001-03-06
Filing date: 2002-03-04
Publication date: 2002-09-12
Also published as: WO2002069911A3; DE10111053A1

Abstract

An active substance combination consisting of (a) α-liponic acid and (b) one or several bioquinones.

Description

description

Active ingredient combinations of α-lipoic acid and bioquinones

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular sensitive skin, as well as very particularly in the foreground for skin aged or aging due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, and the use of such active ingredients and combinations such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

In the case of old skin, for example, regenerative renewal is slowed down, in particular the water-binding capacity of the horny layer diminishes. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). Barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, there may even be toxic or allergic skin reactions.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids are formed incorrectly or in insufficient quantity or composition. The consequence is increased permeability of the layer and insufficient protection of the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be quantified by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). This is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without taking into account the loss of water when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extremely informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine the compatibility of chemically differently structured surfactants and the like.

For the beauty and care of the skin, the water content in the top layer of skin is of the utmost importance. It can be influenced to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations, can increase the pH value in the horny layer for a long time, which greatly hinders regenerative processes that serve to restore and renew the barrier function of the skin. In this case, a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium occurs in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular extraction, which significantly affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer.

Even a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants initially causes the horny layer of the skin to swell, the degree of this swelling depending, for example, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances, e.g. water-soluble dirt components, but also skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer, washed or washed out. To a certain extent, skin fats are also dissolved and washed out by the skin's own surface-active substances. After initial swelling, this causes a subsequent significant drying of the skin, which can be intensified by washing-active additives.

In the case of healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, since the protective mechanisms of the skin readily cause such slight disorders of the upper skin layers can compensate. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, for example due to environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under certain circumstances, he may no longer be able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures.

In addition, it is known that the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin of younger and older people deviate from the normal condition found in healthy, normally hydrated skin of an equal age group. The changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema represent an extreme case for the deviations that are found in the dry skin of healthy people.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides, which are greatly reduced in their quantity and are also composed differently. What is striking here is the deficit in ceramides 1 and 3, it being known in particular for ceramide 1 that it increases the order of the lipids in the intercellular membrane systems in a special way.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the type described above may be due to incorrectly controlled lipid biosynthesis and also ultimately increase the transepidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes the healthy skin more sensitive and in individual cases can contribute to the development of eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer usually does not consist in restoring or strengthening the physico-chemical properties of the lamellae made of inter-cellular lipids. A major partial effect is due to the mere covering of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying horny layer. Co-applied hygroscopic substances bind the water so that there is a measurable increase in the water content in the horny layer. However, this purely physical barrier can be removed relatively easily. After stopping the product, the skin quickly returns to the state it was in before the treatment started. About that In addition, the skin care effect can diminish with regular treatment, so that the status quo is finally reached again even during treatment. With certain products, the condition of the skin may temporarily deteriorate after discontinuation. A sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent.

In order to support the deficient skin in its natural regeneration and to strengthen its physiological function, intercellular lipid mixtures, which are to be used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier, are increasingly being added to topical preparations. However, these lipids, especially the ceramides, are very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually much less than expected.

The aim of the present invention was therefore to find ways to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effects of skin care products should be physiological, quick and sustainable.

Skin care in the sense of the present invention is to be understood primarily as meaning that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, lipids) , Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are known per se. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer is limited in scope and time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the covering (occlusion) of the treated skin areas. The ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that is supposed to prevent water loss from the skin. This physical barrier can be removed correspondingly easily, for example with cleaning agents, as a result of which the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect can decrease with regular treatment. After stopping the product application, the skin quickly returns to the state it was in before the treatment started. The condition of certain products deteriorates Skin may even be temporary. A sustainable product effect is therefore generally not achieved or only to a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin even consists in selective barrier damage, which is intended to enable active substances to penetrate into or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance of the skin is sometimes accepted as a side effect.

The effect of nourishing cleaning products essentially consists in the efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. The simultaneous reduction in the surfactant content of such preparations can further limit the damage to the horny layer barrier.

However, the prior art lacks preparations which positively influence the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer and which strengthen or even restore the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular the lamellae made of intercellular lipids.

The object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, skin-care preparations and preparations for cleaning the skin should be made available which maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin, especially when the natural regeneration of the skin is insufficient. They should also be suitable for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to skin drying out, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also neurodermatitis. It was also an object of the present invention to provide stable skin-care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents which protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable.

In a further preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as, for example, the undesired pigmentation, for example local hyper- and incorrect pigmentations (for example liver spots, freckles), but also for purely cosmetic lightening of larger areas of the skin, pigmented to suit the individual skin type.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin. They are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type, either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cells. As characteristic cell organelles, melanocytes contain melanosomes which, when stimulated by UV radiation, form increased melanin. This is transported into the keratinocytes and causes a more or less pronounced brown or brown skin color.

Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process, in which tyrosine with the help of the enzyme tyrosinase via 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (dopa), dopa-quinone, leucodopachrome, dopachrome, 5,6-dihydroxyindole and indole-5,6-quinone is finally converted into melanin.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes or are side effects of many biological processes, e.g. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

Active substances and preparations are known which counteract skin pigmentation. In practice, preparations based on hydroquinone are essentially used, but some of them only show their effect after several weeks of use, the excessive use of which is also of concern for toxicological reasons. The inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives is also common, but has cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

The object of the present invention was also to remedy these shortcomings.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to protect the skin from aging delay.

Chronological skin aging is e.g. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

a) dryness, roughness and formation of wrinkles due to dryness, b) itching and c) reduced lipid replenishment by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulative and e.g. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it is particularly caused by exogenous factors, e.g. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and wrinkling; f) local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of skin aged naturally, and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain, for example, retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their impact on structural damage is limited in scope. In addition, there are considerable difficulties in product development to sufficiently stabilize the active ingredients against oxidative decay. The use of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations. In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the constituents of cosmetic preparations from harmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as e.g. skin aging, especially skin aging caused by oxidative processes.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to active substances and preparations containing such active substances for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses.

In a further advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates to active substance combinations and preparations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UVB radiation, which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole. It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

To protect against the rays of the UVA range, certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are therefore used, the photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) of which is insufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.

Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Undefined radical photo products, which are created in the skin itself, can also show uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

It has already been suggested that vitamin E, a substance with known antioxidant effective effect in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here still falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

The object of the invention was therefore also to create cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other names, such as those used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Haut- und Sexually Diseases (1989), 156, p.2), are specified.

Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), oxidative damage to the skin and its closer causes are listed.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. For example, US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861, as well as numerous other documents, have proposed the use of vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant activity in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways which avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect of remedying the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging is said to be and prophylaxis should be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

According to the invention, the shortcomings of the prior art are eliminated by combinations of active ingredients consisting of (a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more bioquinones.

The active substance combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing such active substance combinations are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

- better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,

- counteract dehydration better,

- work better against pigment disorders, - work better against skin aging and

- protect the skin better from environmental influences than the preparations of the prior art.

When the active substance combinations used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active substance combinations used according to the invention are used, surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions Skin appendages - from signs of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or skin appendages, from environmental ones (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-related negative changes in the skin and skin appendages. - from light-related skin damage, pigmentation disorders, itching, dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders, hair loss and for improved hair growth inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also surprisingly serves to calm sensitive or irritated skin to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin to stimulate the intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions. to increase cell renewal and regeneration of the skin, to increase the skin's own protective and repair mechanisms (for example for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins) for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, which, for. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin. Some publications describe the use of NO synthase inhibitors and ascorbyl compounds such as, for example, WO-98/09653, WO-97/15280 and WO-96/26711. However, the prior art has failed to point the way in the direction of the present invention.

According to the invention, the use of active substance combinations is accordingly also out

(a) α-lipoic acid and (b) one or more bioquinones for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined dry skin.

The use of active ingredient combinations of (a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more bioquinones, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders. According to the invention, the use of combinations of active ingredients is also out

(a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more bioquinones, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin

According to the invention, the use of combinations of active ingredients is also out

(a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more bioquinones for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for increasing ceramide biosynthesis.

(a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more bioquinones for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention act synergistically with respect to the individual components in all these uses.

α-Lipoic acid was isolated from liver tissue in 1952 and its structure as sulfur-containing

Fatty acid cleared up.

α-lipoic acid

Bacteria, plants and higher organisms can produce α-lipoic acid in their metabolism themselves, for humans the question of their own biosynthesis is still open. α-Lipoic acid is used to treat polyneuropathy, a sensory disorder on the hands and feet as a late consequence of diabetes. 200 to 600 milligrams of α-lipoic acid per day lead to a significant reduction in pain intensity. The energy metabolism of the hand and foot nerves is activated by α-lipoic acid, which leads to better nerve conductivity and thus less numbness and reflex failures.

α-Lipoic acid lowers pathologically increased liver values and promotes the healing of hepatitis. Most foods contain small amounts of α-lipoic acid, only relatively high levels can be found in meat. It is recognized that α-lipoic acid has strong antioxidant properties.

WO97 / 10808 and US Pat. No. 5,472,698 describe the cosmetic use of α-lipoic acid against symptoms of skin aging. DE-42 42 876 describes active ingredient combinations of biotin and antioxidants with α-lipoic acid for the cosmetic and / or dermatological care of the skin and / or the appendages of the skin as well as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.001-10% by weight of α-lipoic acid, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and make the most widespread u. are the best studied biochinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or depending on the number of C atoms as U-5, U- 10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some Microorganisms and Yeast with n = 6. Q-10 predominates in most mammals, including humans.

Coenzyme Q-10, for example, is characterized by the following structural formula:

Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they enable the cyclic oxidation and reduction of the substrates of the citric acid cycle.

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in the cyclic and non-cyclic electron transport, whereby they reversibly change into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Cosmetic preparations with coenzyme Q-10 from DE-A-33 09 850 are known which are used for the treatment of skin diseases, for the prophylaxis of dystrophic and dysabolic states of the skin and for use in the case of chemical and physical respiratory damage or in the case of delayed respiration Age and wear are suitable. The suitability of coenzyme Q-10 for cosmetics is described in Japanese laid-open publication 58, 180, 410. It is said to activate skin cell metabolism and suppress oxidation. As a result, coenzyme Q10 has an important function in the prevention of skin damage from UV rays and the prevention of skin aging.

However, none of these documents could pave the way for the present invention.

The bioquinone preferred according to the invention is the coenzyme Q10. It is advantageous to select concentrations of 0.000.001-5% by weight of one or more bioquinones, preferably coenzyme Q10, in the finished preparations.

It is advantageous according to the invention to add the molar ratio of the substances mentioned under (a) and (b) in the range from 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1:20 choose.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient combination or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combination used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl -, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate , Thio dipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine-dien - Acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferrous acid Lactic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivative e, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the customary manner, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention are applied to the affected skin areas.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. For example, they can be a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (OW), or multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / OW) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol. put.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickening agents, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances punch, for example, 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example: 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-

Benzylidencamphe.r;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters include:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and its salts and 1,4- di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid)

The list of the UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-tert-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ) , Zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous within the meaning of the present invention, although not mandatory, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.

One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '-> n TiO ₂ (surface)

is generated, n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R ^{1 are} the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous. Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^~ , -OSO ₃ ^{2 "} , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

• cationic surfactants, • amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, eg CI ^" RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO- (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. alaninate carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12. -Ι ₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate, 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C ₁₂ . ₁₃ pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles, 3. ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysuifain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used in the invention can also preferably be chosen from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as rylammoniumchlorid Benzyldimethylstea-, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, chloride Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium- or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides , Alkylamidethyl-trimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously 1. acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamine, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Nonionic surfactants to be used advantageously are 1. alcohols, 2. alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MlPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated es lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, and propoxylated POE ethers Alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ethers 7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes

Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, and also natural oils such as castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids; - alkyl benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl palmitate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyierucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase. The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ .ι ₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C ₁₂ are particularly advantageous. ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate, mixtures of C ₁₂ -is alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁₂ -is alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4) , m can assume values from 2 to 200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

the silicon atoms being able to be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n can have values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C number alcohols, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

According to the invention as hydrogels. Present preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.

The use of derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxy-propyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates include naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in modified form such as stearylalkonium hectorites. Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

The nonionic emulsifiers include a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates,

Sucrose stearates) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides d) alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (e.g. Triton X)

The anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

The cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride

The amphoteric emulsifiers include a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be chosen from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example: the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O- ) _π -R ', - the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R' , the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated triglycerides - the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R' , the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester the propoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol propoxylates of the propoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH of the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula R ^ O - on which these sulfates are based (-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

ROX _n -Y _m -H, - the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

ROX _n -Y _m -R \ of the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5- 15.5 if the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol ( 17) stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20), Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol ( 16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19-), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol ( 17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyIstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene 17) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), Polyethy! Eng! Ycol (18) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) - cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate, Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

The sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated .cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose - evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl capethylene / caprinate 20 ) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.

It is also favorable to select the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 - 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate monoisostearate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl-, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate glycol, propylene colmonocaprylat, advice propylene glycol, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonolau-, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise.

example 1

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00

PEG-40 stearate 1, 00

Cetyl alcohol 3.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 5.00

Mineral oil 5.00

Lipoic acid 0.20

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

Tocopherol 0.10

Na ₃ HEDTA 0.10

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 3.00

Caustic soda 45% q.s

Glycerin 5.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature.

Example 2

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glycerylsterate SE 3.00

Stearic acid 1, 00

Cetyl alcohol 2.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Dicaprylyl ether 4.00

Mineral oil 2.00

Lipoic acid 0.50

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 0.10

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 3.00

Butylene glycol 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 3

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00

Stearyl alcohol 5.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 4.00

Octyldodecanol 2.00

TiO2) 1, 00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00

Butyl methoxydibenzolymethane 0.50

Lipoic acid 0.10

Coenzyme Q10 0.20

Biotin 0.05

Trisodium EDTA 0.10

Preservatives q.s.

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 4.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 4

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate 3.00

Cetyl alcohol 3.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Dicaprylyl ether 2.00

Mineral oil 3.00

Lipoic acid 1, 00

Coenzyme Q10 0.05

Trisodium EDTA 0.10

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 0.10

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 5

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00

Sorbitan stearate 2.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Octyldodecanol 2.00

Dicaprylyl ether 1, 00

Lipoic acid 0.30

Coenzyme Q10 0.10

Tocopherol 0.20

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 0.10

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 6

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glycerylsterate SE 5.00

Stearyl alcohol 2.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 2.00

Octyldodecanol 2.00

Dimethicone 2.00

TiO ₂ 2.00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00

Butyl methoxydibenzolymethane 0.50

Lipoic acid 0.20

Coenzyme Q10 0.50

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 0.15

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 7

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00

Ci2-ßβ alkyl benzoates 2.00

Octyldodecanol 2.00

Mineral oil 4.00

Lipoic acid 0.70

Coenzyme Q10 0.80

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 0.10

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Butylene glycol 3.00

Alcohol Denat. 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 8

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 1, 00

C ₁ 2. ₁ 6 alkyl benzoates 3.00

Mineral oil 2.00

Lipoic acid 0.25

Coenzyme Q10 0.005

Na ₃ HEDTA 0.20

Preservatives q.s.

Xanthan gum 0.20

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00

Example 9

O W cream

Wt .-%

Stearic acid 2.50

Cetyl alcohol 3.00

Octyldodecanol 4.00

Cyclomethicone 0.50

Lipoic acid 2.00

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 0.05

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 5.00

Alcohol Denat. 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 10

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Stearic acid 3.50

Cetyl alcohol 4.50

Cetylstearyl alcohol 0.50

Octyldodecanol 6.00

Cyclomethicone 2.00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00

Butyl methoxydibenzolymethane 0.50

Lipoic acid 0.40

Coenzyme Q10 1, 00

Tocopherol 0.05

Trisodium EDTA 0.20

Preservatives q.s.

Carbomer 0.05

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 11

W / O emulsion

Wt .-%

Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00

Anisotriazine 2.00

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 3.00

Octocrylene 7.00

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 1.00

Bisimidazylate 1, 00

Phenylbenzmidazole sulfonic acid 0.50

Zinc oxide 3.00

Dicaprylyl ether 10.00

Dicaprylyl carbonate 5.00

Cyclomethicone 2.00

PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50

Glycerin 3.00

MgSO ₄ 1.00

Vitamin E acetate 0.50

Lipoic acid 0.10

Coenzyme Q10 0.75

Methyl paraben 0.50

Phenoxyethanol 0.50

Ethanol 3.00

Perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 12

W / O emulsion

Wt .-%

Cetyldimethicone copolyol 2.50

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 8.00

Anisotriazine 2.50

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 1, 00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 2.00

Octocrylene 2.50

Bisimidazylate 2.00

Titanium dioxide 2.00

Zinc oxide 1.00

Dimethicone 4.00

Cyclomethicone 25.00

Octoxyglycerin 0.30

Glycerin 7.50

Glycine soy 1, 00

MgSO ₄ 0.50

Lipoic acid 0.60

Coenzyme Q10 0.50

DMDM hydantoin 0.60

Phenoxyethanol 0.40

Perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 13

W / O emulsion

Wt .-%

Cetyldimethicone copolyol 4.00

Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Anisotriazine 2.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00

Ethylhexyltriazon 4.00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 4.00

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 2.00

Phenylbenzmidazole sulfonic acid 3.00

Zinc oxide 0.50

C ₁ 2-15 alkyl benzoates 9.00

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 8.00

Dimethicone 5.00

PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50

Glycerin 7.50

MgSO ₄ 0.50

Lipoic acid 1, 50

Coenzyme Q10 0.05

DMDM hydantoin 0.20

Methyl paraben 0.15

Phenoxyethanol 1.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 14

W / O emulsion

Wt .-%

Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 4.50

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4.00

Anisotriazine 2.50

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 3.00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 2.00

Octocrylene 2.50

Phenylbenzmidazole sulfonic acid 2.00

Titanium dioxide 3.00

Mineral oil - 8.00

Dicaprylyl ether 7.00

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 4.00

Cyclomethicone 2.00

PVP hexadecene copolymer 1.00

Octoxyglycerin 0.50

Glycerin 2.50

MgCl ₂ 0.70

Vitamin E acetate 1.00

Lipoic acid 1, 00

Coenzyme Q10 0.60

Phenoxyethanol 0.60

Ethanol 1.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 15

W / O emulsion

Wt .-%

Polyglyceryl 2-dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00

Wool wax alcohol 0.50

Isohexadecane 1.00

Myristyl myristate 0.50

Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 1, 00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 0.50

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 4.00

Glycerin 5.00

Vitamin E acetate 0.50

Lipoic acid 0.80

Coenzyme Q10 0.08

S-methylisothiourea 0.10

Na ₃ HEDTA 0.20

Methylparaben q.s.

Phenoxyethanol q.s.

Perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00

Example 16

W / O emulsion

Wt .-%

Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00

Wool wax alcohol 1, 50

Isohexadecane 2.00

Myristyl myristate 1, 50

Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 2.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1, 50

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 3.00.

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 5.00

Shea butter 0.50

Butylene glycol 6.00

Octoxyglycerin 3.00

Vitamin E acetate 1.00

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

Diphenylene iodonium chloride 0.15

Na ₃ HEDTA 0.20

Methylparaben q.s.

Phenoxyethanol q.s.

Ethanol 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 17

W / O emulsion

Wt .-%

PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00

Ethylhexyltriazon 3.00

Octocrylene 4.00

Bisimidazylate 0.50

Titanium dioxide 1.50

Zinc oxide 2.00

Mineral oil 10.0

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 2.00

Dicaprylyl carbonate 6.00

Dimethicone 1.00

Shea butter 3.00

Octoxyglycerol 1, 00

Glycine Soy 1, 50

MgCl ₂ 1, 00

Vitamin E acetate 0.25

Lipoic acid 0.25

Coenzyme Q10 0.33

DMDM hydantoin 0.40

Methyl paraben 0.25

Ethanol 1.50

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 18

Hydro dispersion

Wt .-%

Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl stearyl ether 1.00

Acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.50

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00

Ethylhexyltriazon 4.00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 4.00

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 1, 00

Bisimidazylate 1, 00

Phenylbenzmidazole sulfonic acid 0.50

Titanium dioxide 0.50

Zinc oxide 0.50

C-12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.00

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 4.00

Phenyltrimethicone 2.00

PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50

Glycerin 3.00

Vitamin E acetate 0.50

Lipoic acid 0.15

Coenzyme Q10 0.10

Curcumin 0.20

Koncyl - L® q.s.

Methylparaben q.s.

Phenoxyethanol q.s.

Ethanol 3.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 19

Hydro dispersion

Wt .-%

Sodium carbomer 0.20

Xanthan gum 0.30

Anisotriazine 1, 50

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 2.00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 4.00

Octocrylene 4.00

Zinc oxide 1.00

C-12 ₁ 5 alkyl benzoates 2.50

Dicaprylyl ether 4.00

Dicaprylyl carbonate 2.00

Dimethicone 0.50

Shea Butter 2.00

Glycerin 7.50

Lipoic acid 0.60

Coenzyme Q10 1, 50

DMDM hydantoin 0.60

Koncyl - L® q.s.

Methylparaben q.s.

Phenoxyethanol q.s.

Ethanol 2.00

Perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 20

Hydro dispersion

Wt .-%

Cetyl alcohol 1.00

Acrylates / Cι ₀ . ₃₀ cross-linked alkyl acrylate polymer 0.40

Xanthan gum 0.15

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00

Ethylhexyltriazon 3.00

Octocrylene 4.00

Bisimidazylate 0.50

Titanium dioxide 2.00

Zinc oxide 3.00

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 2.00

Dicaprylyl carbonate 6.00

Dimethicone 1.00

Octoxyglycerol 1, 00

Glycine Soy 1, 50

Vitamin E acetate 0.25

Lipoic acid 1, 50

Coenzyme Q10 0.01

DMDM hydantoin 0.40

Koncyl - L® q.s.

Methylparaben q.s.

Phenoxyethanol q.s.

Ethanol 1, 50

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 21

Hydro dispersion

Wt .-%

Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl stearyl ether 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.30

Acrylate / C ₁₀ . ₃₀ alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.10

Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Anisotriazine 2.00

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 2.00

Ethylhexyltriazon 4.00

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 2.00

Phenylbenzmidazole sulfonic acid 3.00

Titanium dioxide 3.00

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 6.00

Phenyltrimethicone 0.50

PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50

Glycerin 7.50

Lipoic acid 1.00

Carboxy-PTIO potassium 0.25

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

DMDM hydantoin 0.20

Koncyl - L® q.s.

Methylparaben q.s.

Phenoxyethanol q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 22

Hydro dispersion

Wt .-%

Acrylate / C ₁₀ . ₃₀ alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.10

Xanthan gum 0.50

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 8.00

Anisotriazine 2.50

Dioctylbutamidotriazon 1, 00

4-methylbenzylidene camphor 2.00

Octocrylene. 2.50

Bisimidazylate 2.00

Titanium dioxide 1.00

Zinc oxide 2.00

Phenyltrimethicone 2.00

PVP hexadecene copolymer 1.00

Octoxyglycerin 0.50

Glycerin 2.50

Vitamin E acetate 1.00

Lipoic acid 0.80

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

Koncyl - L® q.s.

Methylparaben q.s.

Phenoxyethanol q.s.

Ethanol 1.00

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 23

Gel Cream

Wt .-%

Acrylate / Cιo- ₃ o alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.40

Carbomer 0.20

Xanthan gum 0.10

Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00

C ₁₂ . ₁ 5 alkyl benzoates 4.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Cyclomethicone 5.00

Dimethicone 1.00

Lipoic acid 0.20

Coenzyme Q10 0.40

Glycerin 3.00

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized from 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0

Example 24

W / O Cream

Wt .-%

Lameform ® TGI 3.50

Glycerin 3.00

Dehymuls® PGPH 3.50

Lipoic acid 0.50

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

Preservatives q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Magnesium sulfate 0.6

Isopropyl stearate 2.0

Dicaprylyl ether 8.0

Cetyl stearyl isononanoate 6.0 water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 25

W / O / W Cream

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate 3.00

PEG-100 stearate 0.75

Behenyl alcohol 2.00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 8.00

Octyldodecanol 5.00

_C12 - ₁ 5 alkyl benzoates 3.00

Lipoic acid 1, 00

Coenzyme Q10 0.02

MgSO ₄ 0.80

EDTA 0.10

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s. Water demineralized from 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then combined with the water phase and brought to a temperature of 80-85 ° C (ie, in the phase inversion temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (i.e. brought out of the phase inversion temperature range of the system) ,

Claims

claims

1. Active ingredient combinations of (a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more bioquinones.

2. Use of active substance combinations according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined dry skin.

3. Use of active substance combinations according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders.

4. Use of active substance combinations according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin

5. Use of active compound combinations according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for increasing ceramide biosynthesis.

6. Use of active substance combinations according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

7. Active ingredient combinations according to Claim 1, in which the molar ratio of the substances mentioned under (a) and (b) is in the range from 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1:20 is selected.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations according to claim 1 or 8.

9. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that they contain 0.001 - 10 wt .-% of α-lipoic acid, based on the total weight of the preparations.

10. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that the preparations contain concentrations of 0.000.001 - 5 wt .-% of one or more bioquinones, preferably coenzyme Q10.