DE10241889A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological compositions, e.g. useful for preventing or treating inflammatory skin conditions, sensitive or dry skin, include a quinolinic acid compound - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions include a quinolinic acid compound. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions include a quinolinic acid compound of formula (I)-(IV) or a salt thereof. R = H, Me, Et, Pr, octanoyl, palmitoyl or stearyl.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients to care for and protect the skin, especially the sensitive ones Skin as well as especially in the foreground due to the intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors of aged or aging skin as well the use of such active substances and combinations of such active substances in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Taking cosmetic skin care is primarily to understand that the natural function of the skin as Barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against loss from the body's own Substances (e.g. water, natural Fats, electrolytes) strengthened or is restored.

If this function is disrupted, it too amplified Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or to infest Microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

With old skin, for example regenerative regeneration slows down, especially that Water holding capacity the horny layer subsides. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiological" dry skin). Barrier damage is the result. The skin will susceptible for negatives environmental influences like the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As This can even lead to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

For pathologically dry and sensitive Skin has a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids become faulty or inadequate Quantity or composition formed. The consequence is increased permeability the horny layer and insufficient protection of the skin against loss hygroscopic substances and water.

The skin can act as a barrier Determination of transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal waten loss) can be quantified. This is the evaporation of water from inside the body without including water loss when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extraordinary Proven informative and can be cracked or chapped for diagnosis Skin, to determine tolerance chemically different types of surfactants and the like be used.

For the beauty and skin care is the water content in the top layer of skin of highest importance. It can be influenced to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.

Anionic surfactants, which in general Components of cleaning preparations can reduce the pH in the horny layer prolonged increase, what regenerative processes, the restoration and renewal serve the barrier function of the skin, severely disabled. In this Fall occurs in the horny layer between regeneration and the Loss of essential substances through regular extraction a new, frequently very unfavorable Equilibrium state of the outer appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer is crucial impaired.

Even with a simple water bath Without the addition of surfactants, the swelling initially occurs Horny layer of the skin, the degree of this swelling, for example depends on the duration of the bath and its temperature. at the same time become water soluble Fabrics, e.g. water-soluble Dirt constituents, but also the skin's own substances, which are essential for the water retention capacity of the Horny layer are responsible, washed or washed out. By skin's own surfactants To a certain extent, substances are also dissolved and washed out of skin oils. This requires after initial Swelling following significant drying of the skin that through wash-active additives reinforced can be.

These processes are common for healthy skin irrelevant, because the protective mechanisms of the skin such slight disturbances of the can easily compensate the upper skin layers. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, e.g. due to environmental damage or irritation, light damage, aging skin etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under certain circumstances he would then no longer be able to perform his task on his own fulfill and must take external measures be regenerated.

In addition, it is known that lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically changed, dry and the dry, but not diseased skin of younger and older people from the normal state deviates from that of healthy, normally hydrated skin Age group is found. In doing so, the changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema is an extreme case for the deviations that can be found in the dry skin of healthy people.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides, which are greatly reduced in their quantity and are also composed differently. What is striking is the deficit at Ce ramiden 1 and 3, it being known in particular for ceramide 1 that it increases the order of the lipids in the intercellular membrane systems in a special way.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the type described above may be based on misguided Lipid biosynthesis and increase in the end also the transepidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness in turn, the healthy skin itself is more sensitive and can Single cell trap contribute to the development of eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams insists on barrier function and hydration of the horny layer Usually not in a restoration or strengthening of the physical-chemical Properties of the lamellae from intercellular lipids. An essential one Partial effect is based on the bare Coverage of the treated skin areas and the resulting Water build-up in the underlying horny layer. Co-applied hygroscopic Substances bind the water, making it a measurable increase of the water content in the horny layer. This purely physical However, the barrier can be removed relatively easily. To the skin returns very quickly when the product is discontinued the condition before the start of treatment. In addition, the skin care effect with regular treatment subside so that eventually even during treatment the status quo is reached again. With certain Products worsen the condition of the skin after weaning in certain circumstances temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually not or only in a restricted Dimensions reached.

To deficit skin in its natural To support regeneration and to strengthen their physiological function are topical preparations intercellular lipid mixtures have recently been increasingly added, used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier should be. However, these are lipids, in particular but the ceramides, to very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect usually much less than hoped.

The aim of the present invention was thus finding ways to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art avoid. In particular, the effect of skin care products be physiological, fast and sustainable.

Taking skin care in the sense of the present Invention is primarily to be understood that the natural function of the skin as Barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against loss from the body's own Substances (e.g. water, lipids, electrolytes) strengthened or restored becomes.

Products for care, treatment and Cleaning dry and stressed skin is known per se. However, their contribution to regeneration is physiological intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and limited.

The effect of ointments and creams relies on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer essentially on the cover (occlusion) of the treated skin areas. The ointment or cream represents a (second) artificial one, so to speak A barrier that should prevent the skin from losing water. Accordingly easy can this physical barrier - for example with cleaning agents - again removed, causing the original, impaired Condition is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect with regular treatment ease up. After stopping the product application, the skin turns very much quickly return to the state before the start of treatment. at Under certain products, the skin condition worsens circumstances even temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually not or only in a restricted Dimensions reached.

The effect of some pharmaceutical Preparations for the skin's barrier function even exist in selective barrier damage, that enable. supposed to be active ingredients in or through the skin into the body can penetrate. A disturbed Appearance of the skin is partial as a side effect accepted.

The effect of nourishing cleaning products consists essentially of an efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like Substances. By simultaneously reducing the surfactant content such preparations the damage to the horny layer barrier is further limited.

The state of the art is lacking however, of preparations that have barrier function and hydration positively influence the horny layer and the physico-chemical Properties of the horny layer and especially the lamellae Strengthen intercellular lipids or even restore.

The object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, skin-care preparations and preparations for cleaning the skin should be made available which maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties, especially when the natural regeneration of the skin is not sufficient. They should also be suitable for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to skin drying out, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also neurodermatitis. The object of the present invention was also to be stable to provide skin-care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents which protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable.

The invention also relates to Preparations with extremely low so-called "stinging potential".

The problem of "sensitive skin" affects one growing number of adults and children. Labeled with sensitive skin one a combination of different symptoms, like hyperreactive and intolerant skin. But atopic skin can also be subsumed under it become. These skin conditions are often, but not entirely correctly, called "allergic" by those affected Skin. Although an allergic disease causes symptoms sensitive skin the appearance is "sensitive Skin "is not limited to allergy sufferers.

In people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin can be hurt with "stinging" (<engl.> "to sting" = burning, pain) observed neurosensory phenomenon become. This "sensitive skin" differs fundamentally from "dry skin" with thickened and hardened horny layers.

Typical reactions of "stinging" with sensitive skin there is redness, Tightness and burning of the skin as well as itching.

As a neurosensory phenomenon the itching of atopic skin and the itching of skin diseases.

"Stinging" phenomena can be treated as cosmetic disorders be considered. In contrast, severe itching, especially with atopy Severe itchy skin that occurs can also be more serious dermatological disorder be designated.

Typical, with the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" associated, disruptive neurosensory phenomena are reddening of the skin, Tingling, tingling, tightness and burning of the skin and itching. she can by stimulating environmental conditions e.g. Massage, surfactant, Weather influence such as sun, cold, Dryness but also moist warmth, thermal radiation and UV radiation, e.g. the sun.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists "28, pp. 197-209 (May 1977) P.J. Frosch and A.M. Kligman describe a method for appraisal the "stinging potential" of topically administered substances. As positive substances are e.g. Lactic acid and pyruvic acid are used. When measuring according to this method, however, amino acids were also found, in particular Glycine, determined to be neurosensory active (such substances are Called "Stinger").

According to previous knowledge such sensitivity to certain substances individually different. This means a person who when it comes into contact with a substance, it experiences "stinging effects" repeated with a high probability with every further contact experience. Contact with other "Stingers" can just as well go without any reaction.

Many more or less sensitive People also have deodorizing or using some antiperspirant preparations with erythematous skin symptoms to suffer.

Erythematous skin symptoms occur also as side effects with certain skin diseases or -irregularities on. For example, the typical skin rash is in appearance the acne regularly more or less red.

It was therefore the task of the present one Invention to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

In particular, active substances and Preparations containing such active ingredients for cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive symptoms, especially Dermatoses, but also the appearance of the "stinging" disposal be put.

Such active substances, or preparations containing such active ingredients which are beneficial for immune stimulation of the skin also for immune stimulation in the sense of promoting wound healing Effect, can be used.

In a further preferred embodiment The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological Preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin lesions such as. the unwanted Pigmentation, for example local hyper and incorrect pigmentation (for example liver spots, freckles), but also for pure cosmetic brightening greater, the individual skin type in itself adequately pigmented Skin surfaces.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin, which can be found in the bottom layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type, either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cells. As characteristic cell organelles, melanocytes contain melanosomes which, when stimulated by UV radiation, form increased melanin. This is transported into the keratinocytes and calls a more or less pronounced brownish or brown skin color.

Melanin is used as the final stage of an oxidative Process formed in which tyrosine with the participation of the enzyme Tyrosinase via 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (dopa), dopa-quinone, leucodopachrome, dopachrome, 5,6-dihydroxyindole and indole-5,6-quinone finally converted to melanin becomes.

Hyperpigmentation problems Skin have diverse Causes or are side effects of many biological processes, e.g. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, Incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

There are active ingredients and preparations known, which counteract skin pigmentation. In practical terms Preparations are essentially used based on hydroquinone, some of which only after several weeks Application show their effect, their excessive use on the other hand, is of concern for toxicological reasons. Also the Inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives is common, but has cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

The task was to remedy these shortcomings of the present invention.

The aim of skin care is also to through daily Washing to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is not sufficient. Moreover skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, protect and delay skin aging.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z.B. nach Waschen).

Chronological skin aging is caused, for example, by endogenous, genetically determined factors. The following structural damage and functional disorders occur in the epidermis and dermis due to aging, which can also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (eg after washing).

• d) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• e) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• f) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z.B. Altersflecken) und
• g) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z.B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective and, for example, accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin occur in particular due to exogenous factors, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging:

• d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis);
• e) flaccidity and wrinkling;
• f) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentations (eg age spots) and
• g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking).

The present invention relates to especially products for the care of naturally aged skin, as well as to treat the consequential damage of light aging, in particular those listed under a) to g) Phenomena.

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or their derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Your impact on the structural damage is however limited in scope. About that there are also significant difficulties in product development, the active substances sufficiently against oxidative decay to stabilize. The use of products containing vitamin A acid is conditional about that in addition, often strong erythematous Skin irritation. Retinoids are therefore only in low concentrations used.

In particular, the present concerns Invention cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful Oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic ones Preparations themselves or to protect the components of cosmetic Preparations before harmful Oxidation processes.

The present invention relates to furthermore antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations are used. In particular the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological Preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin lesions such as. skin aging, especially that caused by oxidative processes induced skin aging.

Furthermore, the present concerns Invention Active Ingredients and Preparations Containing Such Active Ingredients for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive symptoms, especially Dermatoses.

The present invention relates to in a further advantageous embodiment, active ingredient combinations and preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive Skin, especially photodermatoses.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of the sun's radiation on the skin is generally known known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of erythema effectiveness the narrower range of 308 nm is given for sunlight.

To protect against UVB radiation numerous compounds known, which are derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, the 4-aminobenzoic acid, the cinnamic acid, the salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the area between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to filter substances to disposal to have, because its rays cause reactions in light-sensitive skin can. It has been proven that UVA radiation to injury of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue leads to what the skin ages prematurely, and that they are the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic Reactions can be seen. The harmful one The influence of UVB radiation can be increased by UVA radiation.

To protect against the rays of the UVA range are therefore certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane used whose photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)), not given to a sufficient extent is.

The UV radiation can also cause photochemical reactions, then taking the photochemical reaction products into the skin metabolism intervention.

Mostly these are photochemical reaction products around radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Even undefined radical photo products that are created in the skin itself, can because of their high reactivity display uncontrolled follow-up reactions. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can with UV radiation occur, as do short-lived epoxies and many others. singlet for example, stands out from what is normally present Triplet oxygen (radical ground state) through increased Reactivity out. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

UV radiation is also ionizing Radiation. So there is a risk that ionic species also UV exposure arises, which in turn then oxidizes into the able to intervene in biochemical processes.

To prevent these reactions, can additional cosmetic or dermatological formulations Antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated.

It has already been suggested Vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect in Use sunscreen formulations, but still remains here the effect achieved far behind the hoped for.

The object of the invention was therefore also, cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical agents and preparations and sunscreen formulations to create the for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular Serve photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

Other names for the polymorphic Light eruption are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other terms as used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Skin and STDs (1989), 156, P.2).

Mainly antioxidants as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them used. Nevertheless, it is known that also in human and undesirable animal skin Oxidation processes can occur. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury "in" Oxidative Stress in Dermatology ", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decken Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California) oxidative damage the skin and its nearer Causes listed.

Also for the reason, such reactions can prevent cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. So is already in the US patents 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 as well as from numerous other documents have been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative effect in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here still falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

Object of the present invention it was thus to find ways that would overcome the disadvantages of the prior art avoid. In particular, the effect of remedying the with the endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging damage and prophylaxis permanently, sustainably and without the risk of Side effects.

spezifizierten Derivate sowie pharmazeutisch akzeptable Salze dieser Verbindungen, wobei R¹–R⁸ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe H, Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, Octanoyl, Palmitoyl, Stearyl.According to the invention, the drawbacks of the prior art are eliminated by cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing one or more compounds, selected from the group of quinolinic acid and its structural formulas

specified derivatives and pharmaceutically acceptable salts of these compounds, where R ¹ -R ⁸ can be selected independently of one another from the group H, methyl, ethyl, propyl, octanoyl, palmitoyl, stearyl.

• – besser die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen,
• – besser der Hautaustrocknung entgegenwirken,
• – besser gegen Pigmentstörungen wirken,
• – besser gegen entzündliche Hautzustände wirken
• – besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken und
• – die Haut besser vor Umwelteinflüssen schützen

Preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

• - better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,
• - counteract dehydration better,
• - work better against pigment disorders,
• - work better against inflammatory skin conditions
• - work better against skin aging and
• - better protect the skin from environmental influences

than the preparations of the stand of the technique.

• – von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden
• – von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z.B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• – von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.
• – von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• – von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• – von empfindlicher, gereizter und juckender Haut,
• – von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• – von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum
• – von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitüigo

möglich. Der erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffes bzw. kosmetischer oder topischer dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäßem Wirkstoff dient aber auch in überraschender Weise

• – zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• – zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese
• – zur Stimulation der Ceramidsynthese der Haut
• – zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei de izitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen.
• – zur Steigerung der Zellerneuerung und Regeneration der Haut
• – zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine)
• – zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

The use according to the invention of quinolinic acid and / or its derivatives or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of quinolinic acid and / or its derivatives surprisingly offers an effective treatment, but also prophylaxis

• - from deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - Of environmental (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and especially light-related negative changes in the skin and the appendages.
• - from light-related skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - sensitive, irritated and itchy skin,
• - from dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitüigo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also serves in a surprising manner

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin
• - for stimulating collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis
• - to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin
• - to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in de-icing or hypoactive skin conditions.
• - to increase cell renewal and skin regeneration
• - to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins)
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

Accordingly, the use is also according to the invention of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory Skin conditions - even that atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection for sensitive, determined dry skin.

Accordingly, the use is also according to the invention for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders.

Accordingly, the use is also according to the invention for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for treatment and prophylaxis the harmful Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin is accordingly according to the invention also the use of quinolinic acid and / or its derivatives for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations to increase ceramide biosynthesis.

Accordingly, the use is also according to the invention of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives for the production of cosmetic or dermatological Preparations for strengthening the skin's barrier function.

Chinolinsäure ist bei der Synthese von Nicotinamid-Adenin-Dinucleotid von Bedeutung.Quinolinic acid is characterized by the following chemical structure:

Quinolinic acid is important in the synthesis of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1 % By weight of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives based on the total composition of the Preparations.

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous Chinolinsäure and / or their derivatives or cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective quinolinic acid content and / or their derivatives for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis undesirable skin conditions to use.

According to the invention, preparations which are quinolinic acid and / or contain their derivatives, usual Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously chosen from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N- Acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives ( Esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), f erner (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated Fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin e-acetate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbe noxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (a or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Prophylaxis or cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the one used according to the invention Active ingredient or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective content of what is used according to the invention Active ingredient takes place in the usual Way, in such a way that the used according to the invention Active ingredient or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention the affected skin is applied.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetics and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. For example, they can be a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in -Water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are customary for one such type of formulation can be used.

It is also possible and beneficial in the sense of the present invention, the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous Systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and the Insert hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions mostly not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. The cosmetic according to the invention Preparations can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as they usually do used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, Bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, Insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, Pigments with coloring Effect, thickener, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis apply accordingly Requirements for the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or several drugs in effective concentration. The simplicity for the sake of a clean distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the legal Regulations of the Federal Republic of Germany referenced (e.g. cosmetics regulation, Food and Drugs Act).

Preparations according to the invention can be advantageous Moreover Contain substances that absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight is, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic Preparations available to make the hair or skin rich before the entire loading protect from ultraviolet radiation. You can also as sunscreen for Serve hair.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester,
• – 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

• – Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (die entsprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), auch als Benzol-l,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure bezeichnet

Examples of advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and its salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid

The list of UVB filters mentioned, those in combination with the active ingredient combinations according to the invention can be used should go without saying not be limiting.

It can also be beneficial to use UVA filters use the usual are contained in cosmetic preparations. With these substances it is preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular by 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and by 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. It can the for the amounts used in the UVB combination.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly beneficial in the sense the present invention, although not mandatory if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. they are surface-repellent are treated. This surface treatment can be that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic Layer.

One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface) is generated. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic Micropigments incorporated into the preparations according to the invention should also be anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric Contain surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that contain organic, Dissolve non-polar substances in water can.

• – anionische Tenside,
• – kationische Tenside,
• – amphotere Tenside und
• – nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^{2 -} , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, e.g. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Are typical for non-ionic surfactants Polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants form in an aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoylhydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate; beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. AcylLactylate, lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate; for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. Alaninate

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z.B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_{1 2– 1 4} Olefinsulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA-Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_{1 2–13} Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. acyl isethionate, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkylsulfonates, for example sodium, sodium C _{1 2 1 4} olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _{1 2-13} pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least an N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups is. This leads to, independently from the pH value to a positive charge. Advantages are alkyl betaine, Alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. The used according to the invention cationic surfactants can also preferably chosen are from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzylirialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromide, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, Alkyl pyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
• 6. Sucroseester, -Ether
• 7 Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
• 6. sucrose esters, ether
• 7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

The use is also advantageous a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more non-ionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight in the preparations according to the invention are present, based on the total weight of the preparations.

• – Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Ole wie z.B. Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkylbenzoate;
• – Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, and also natural oils such as castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present Invention is advantageously chosen from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, Erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example Cetyl palmitate, to be used as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil phase selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁ _ _{2 15} alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _{1 2} _ ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _{1 2} _ ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _{1 2- 15} alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons are Paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use.

Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzenden linearen Silicone mit mehreren Siloxyleinheiten werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert wie folgt:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2–200.000 annehmen.The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2–200,000.

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, daß ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But also other silicone oils are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, behen oxide dimethicone.

Mixtures are also advantageous from cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and those from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

But it is also advantageous to be more similar to silicone oils To choose constitution such as the compounds referred to above, whose derivatized organic side chains, for example polyethoxylated and / or are polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane, polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl 4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Are also particularly advantageous Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or -monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Present as emulsions according to the invention Preparations particularly advantageously contain one or more Hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be chosen from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Present as hydrogels according to the invention Preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can can advantageously be chosen for the purposes of the present invention e.g. gum arabic, carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, Guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, Xanthan gum.

The use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar ( ^Jaguar® HP 8) is also advantageous.

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. hyaluronic acid, Chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Located among the cellulose derivatives e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.

Located under the layered silicates yourself, of course existing and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, Hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum ©. This can used as such or in modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Silica gels can also be used advantageously be used.

Located under the polyacrylates e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA Copolymers, polyglycols.

Present as emulsions according to the invention Preparations contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously chosen are from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are located

• a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, Sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X)

• a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat)
• b) Fettalkoholsulfate
• c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

• a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z.B. Distearyldimonium Chloride

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, for example distearyldimonium chloride

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine
• c) Imidazolinderivate

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) Imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring ones Emulsifiers, including beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols belong.

• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• – der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• – der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• – der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• – der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• – der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Ym-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H,.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example:

• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - The ethoxylated triglycerides
• The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The propoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Ym-H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

Be particularly advantageous according to the invention the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageous with with HLB values of 14.5–15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated Have radicals R and R '. The O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated residues R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB values of such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetylstearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene lenglycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene 23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or the salt of which can advantageously be used the sodium laureth-11 carboxylate.

Sodium can be used as the alkyl ether sulfate Laureth 1-4 sulfate can be used advantageously.

As an ethoxylated cholesterol derivative Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

As ethoxylated triglycerides can be advantageous which uses polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides (Evening Primrose = evening primrose) Furthermore, it is advantageous the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, Polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also convenient that Sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can are used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Monoglycerol ester more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ether more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 Carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, Glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl mono isostearate, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

2. Beispiele O/W-Creme

3. Beispiele W/O-Creme

4. Beispiele W/O Emulsionen

5. Beispiele Hydrodispersionen

6. Beispiel (Gelcreme):

7. Beispiel (W/O-Creme )

The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise. 1. Examples of O / W cream

2. Examples of O / W cream

3. Examples of W / O cream

4. Examples of W / O emulsions

5. Examples of hydrodispersions

6. Example (gel cream):

7th example (W / O cream)

Claims (8)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing one or more compounds selected from the group of quinolinic acid and its structural formulas

specified derivatives and pharmaceutically acceptable salts of these compounds, where R ¹ -R ⁸ can be selected independently of one another from the group N, methyl, ethyl, propyl, octanoyl, palmitoyl, stearyl. Use of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in sensitive and dry skin Skin. Use of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for treatment and prophylaxis the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet Radiation on the skin. Use of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders. Use of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations to increase ceramide biosynthesis. Use of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations to strengthen the barrier function of the skin. Use of quinolinic acid and / or their derivatives according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for treatment and / or prophylaxis of functional disorders the skin appendages. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2-7, thereby characterized that they in cosmetic or dermatological preparations 0.001–50% by weight preferably 0.1-10 % By weight of quinolinic acid / esters / amides and their salts, based on the total weight of the preparations, are contained.