EP1367987A2 - Use of active-ingredient combinations consisting of alpha-lipoic acid and dermatologically compatible substances that absorb light in the uv-a and/or uv-b wavelength range(s), for producing cosmetic or dermatological preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of active-ingredient combinations consisting of a) α-lipoic acid and b) one or more dermatologically compatible substances that absorb light in the UV-A and/or UV-B wavelength range(s). Said combinations are used for producing cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of symptoms of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing of the skin and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

Description

 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

USE OF COMBINATION OF ACTIVE SUBSTANCES FROM LIPONIC ACID AND DERMATOLOGICALLY COMPATIBLE SUBSTANCES THAT SHOW LIGHT ABSORPTION IN THE UV-A AREA AND / OR UV-B AREA FOR THE PRODUCTION OF COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL PREPARATIONS

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular sensitive skin, as well as very particularly in the foreground for skin aged or aging due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, and the use of such active ingredients and combinations such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care is understood primarily to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored ,

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

In the case of old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal is slowed down, in particular the water-binding capacity of the home layer diminishes. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). Barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, Toxins and allergens. As a result, there may even be toxic or allergic skin reactions.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids are formed incorrectly or in insufficient quantity or composition. The consequence is increased permeability of the horny layer and inadequate protection of the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be quantified by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). This is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without taking into account the loss of water when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extremely informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine the compatibility of chemically differently structured surfactants and the like.

Chronological skin aging is e.g. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

a) dryness, roughness and formation of wrinkles due to dryness, b) itching and c) reduced lipid replenishment by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulative and e.g. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it is particularly caused by exogenous factors, e.g. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and wrinkling; f) local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (eg age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their impact on structural damage is limited in scope. In addition, there are considerable difficulties in product development to sufficiently stabilize the active ingredients against oxidative decay. The use of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the constituents of cosmetic preparations from harmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as e.g. skin aging, especially skin aging caused by oxidative processes.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to active substances and preparations containing such active substances for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses. In a further advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates to active ingredient combinations and preparations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UVB radiation, which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

To protect against the rays of the UVA range, certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are therefore used, the photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) of which is insufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism. Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Undefined radical photo products, which are created in the skin itself, can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative effect, in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

The object of the invention was therefore also to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other names, such as those used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Haut- und Sexually Diseases (1989), 156, p.2), are specified.

Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such pro Processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), oxidative damage to the skin and its closer causes are listed.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. It has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant activity in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways which avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect of repairing the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging and the prophylaxis should be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

According to the invention, the shortcomings of the prior art are eliminated by using active substance combinations

(a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more dermatologically compatible substances which produce light absorption in the UV-A range and / or UV-B range, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations are superior in all respects. from satisfactory preparations. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

- better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,

- counteract dehydration better,

- work better against pigment disorders,

- work better against aging and

- protect the skin better from environmental influences than the preparations of the prior art.

When using the active ingredient combinations used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention, surprisingly, an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages Symptoms of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin, of environmental ones (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-related negative changes in the skin and appendages. from light-related skin damage from pigmentation disorders, itching, dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders, from hair loss and for improved hair growth from inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo. However, the active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also surprisingly serves to calm sensitive or irritated skin to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions. to increase cell renewal and regeneration of the skin to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins) for pre-treatment and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention act synergistically with respect to the individual components.

α-Lipoic acid was isolated from liver tissue in 1952 and its structure as a sulfur-containing fatty acid was elucidated. Bacteria, plants and higher organisms can produce α-lipoic acid in their metabolism themselves, for humans the question of their own biosynthesis is still open.

α-Lipoic acid is used to treat polyneuropathy, a sensory disorder on the hands and feet as a late consequence of diabetes. 200 to 600 milligrams of α-lipoic acid per day lead to a significant reduction in pain intensity. The energy metabolism of the hand and foot nerves is activated by α-lipoic acid, which leads to better nerve conductivity and thus less numbness and reflex failures.

α-Lipoic acid lowers pathologically increased liver values and promotes the healing of hepatitis. Most foods contain small amounts of α-lipoic acid, only relatively high levels can be found in meat. It is recognized that α-lipoic acid has strong antioxidant properties.

WO97 / 10808 and US Pat. No. 5,472,698 describe the cosmetic use of α-lipoic acid against symptoms of skin aging. DE-42 42 876 describes active ingredient combinations of biotin and antioxidants with α-lipoic acid for cosmetic and / or dermatological care of the skin and / or the appendages of the skin as well as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.001 10% by weight of α-lipoic acid, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparations according to the invention contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'- 5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis sodium salt

with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) , which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:

where R, R ² and R ³ are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single represent hydrogen atom. The 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCl: aniso triazine) are particularly preferred ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid- tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCl: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif

are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula

is reproduced, whereby

R represents a branched or unbranched dC s alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more dC ₄ alkyl groups, represents an oxygen atom or an NH group, a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which

A represents a branched or unbranched Ci-Cis-alkyl radical, a C5-Cι ₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C.

C ₄ - alkyl groups, R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10, a branched or unbranched CrCι ₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -Cι ₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC - alkyl groups , represents when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched C ₈ -C alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which

A represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C.

C ₄ alkyl groups, R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom. A particularly advantageous UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula

is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCl: Diocylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name U VASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

European laid-open specification 775698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are to be used advantageously and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein R-, R ₂ and Ai represent a wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine , the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino ] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine , the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis- {[4- (1 ', r, 1', 3 ', 5', 5 ', 5 ^, -heptamethyIsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy3-phenyl-6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [INCl : Bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA Chemical GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula is marked.

The UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

^■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

^■ 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine;

^■ esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl ester;

^■ esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

^■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

^■ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;

^■ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyljbenzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:

It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to incorporate further UV-A and / or UV-B filters into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

It is advantageous according to the invention to add the molar ratio of the substances mentioned under (a) and (b) in the range from 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2 choose.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient combination or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combination used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, Carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine and cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides , Nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), and also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids , Palmitic acid, phytic acid, Lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), Folic acid and its derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin and its resin, rutinic acid Derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium and its derivatives) , Stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, Sugar, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the applied active ingredient or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations. Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ); Mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO are particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous within the meaning of the present invention, although not mandatory, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.

One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification

n TiO ₂ + (RO) ₃ Si-R '-> n TiO ₂ (surface)

is generated, n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14742 are advantageous. Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^' = any anion, for example Cl ^" RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninate carboxylic acids and derivatives such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates, 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coco monoglyceride sulfate, sodium Cι ₂ .ι ₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium Cι ₂ -ι ₃ pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used in the invention can be also preferably selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzene zyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as Benzyldimethylstea- rylammoniumchlorid, also alkyltrialkylammonium, such as for example Ce tyltrimethylammoniumchlorid or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamino oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamine, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterol, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosyl Lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such as castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl, ethyl-2-ethylhexyl Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of Cι ₂ .ι ₅ -AIkylbenzoat and 2-ethylhexyl, mixtures of Cι ₂ .ι ₅ -Alky! Benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Cι _{second 15} alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

where the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which here are generally represented by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ are shown (to say that the number of different residues is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 to 200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

the silicon atoms being able to be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n can have values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate) Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethy- glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group of the gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, alginine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.

The use of derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

The polysaccharides and derivatives include, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives. The cellulose derivatives include, for example, methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) ethoxylated fatty amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, e.g. Triton X)

The anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates The cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, for example distearyldimonium chloride

The amphoteric emulsifiers include a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be chosen from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example: the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O- ) _n -R \ of the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R \ the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) n-R ', the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the propoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol propoxylates of the propoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH of the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O- ) _n -SO ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-Xn-Y _m -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5-15. 5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. Do the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or are Isoalkyl derivatives before, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) - stearyl ether (Steareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20 .

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 ) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15), Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol 17) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

The sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself. Polyethylene glycol (ÖO) Evening Primrose Glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl capate / polyethylene glycol ) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.

It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C - Atoms, diglycerin ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or ung saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol mono capitanium sorbate, sorbitol sorbitol, sorbitol mono-sorbitol, sorbitol monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooieate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monylurolate, glyceryl monylurolate,.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise.

example 1

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then combined with the water phase and brought to a temperature of 80-85 ° C (ie, in the phase inversion temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (i.e. brought out of the phase inversion temperature range of the system) , Example 2

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then combined with the water phase and brought to a temperature of 80-85 ° C (ie, in the phase inversion temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (i.e. brought out of the phase inversion temperature range of the system) , Example 3

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then combined with the water phase and brought to a temperature of 80-85 ° C (ie, in the phase inversion temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (i.e. brought out of the phase inversion temperature range of the system) , Example 4

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then combined with the water phase and brought to a temperature of 80-85 ° C (ie, in the phase inversion temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (i.e. brought out of the phase inversion temperature range of the system) , Example 5

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then combined with the water phase and brought to a temperature of 80-85 ° C (ie, in the phase inversion temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (i.e. brought out of the phase inversion temperature range of the system) , Example 6

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 7

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 8

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature.

Example 9

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 10

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 11

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature.

Example 12

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 13

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 14

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 15

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 16

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 17

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 18

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 19

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 20

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 21

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 22

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 23

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 24

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature. Example 25

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature.

Example 26

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases are combined and homogenized at 70-75 ° C. and then cooled to room temperature.

Claims

claims:

1. Use of active ingredient combinations

(a) α-lipoic acid and

(b) one or more dermatologically compatible substances which produce light absorption in the UV-A range and / or UV-B range, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain 0.001-10% by weight of α-lipoic acid, based on the total weight of the preparations.

3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain 0.001 - 10 wt .-% of one or more substances selected from the group of dermatologically compatible substances show the light absorption in the UV-A range and / or UV-B range ,