DE10144262A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for skin care, comprises an ascorbyl compound and alpha-lipoic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises an ascorbyl compound and alpha -lipoic acid.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations, Containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, especially sensitive ones Skin as well as especially in the foreground due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors of aged or aging skin and the use of such Active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care means primarily that the natural Function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural Fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, the absorption of toxic or allergenic substances may increase Substances or for infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

With old skin, for example, regenerative renewal is slowed down, whereby in particular, the water retention capacity of the horny layer decreases. It will therefore inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is that Episode. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of Microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, it can even become toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids become defective or in insufficient quantity or Composition formed. The consequence is increased permeability Horny layer and inadequate protection of the skin from loss of hygroscopic Substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be determined by determining the transepidermal Water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss) can be quantified. It is about to the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without involving the Water loss when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value turned out to be proven to be extremely informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin Determination of the compatibility of chemically different types of surfactants and the like are used more.

For the beauty and care of the skin, the water content is in the top Skin layer of paramount importance. You can go through it to a limited extent Influence the introduction of moisture regulators favorably.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations can increase the pH in the horny layer for a long time, which is regenerative Processes that restore and renew the barrier function of the skin serve, severely disabled. In this case, the horny layer intervenes between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular extraction a new, frequent very unfavorable state of equilibrium, which affects the external appearance of the skin and decisively affects the physiological functioning of the horny layer.

A simple water bath without the addition of surfactants is the first step swelling of the horny layer of the skin, the degree of this swelling for example, depends on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time water-soluble substances, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own Substances that are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer or washed out. Thanks to the skin's own surface-active substances To a certain extent, skin oils are dissolved and washed out. This depends on initial swelling followed by significant drying of the skin caused by detergent additives can be reinforced.

With healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant because the Protective mechanisms of the skin easily such minor disorders of the upper layers of the skin can compensate. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations Normal status, e.g. B. due to environmental damage or irritation, Light damage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under Under certain circumstances, he will then no longer be able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures.

It is also known that the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin younger and older people deviate from the normal state, which in the healthy, normal hydrated skin of an age group is found. The Changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of Patients with atopic eczema represent an extreme case for the deviations that occur in the dry skin of healthy people.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides in their quantity are greatly reduced and additionally composed differently. What is striking is in the deficit of ceramides 1 and 3, in particular for Ceramide 1 is known to be in a special way the order of the lipids in the Intercellular membrane systems increases.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the type described above are based possibly due to misguided lipid biosynthesis and also increase in the end transepidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes the skin, which is healthy per se, more sensitive and can develop in individual cases Contribute to eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration of the Horny layer usually does not consist in restoring or strengthening the physicochemical properties of the lamellae from intercellular lipids. An essential one Partial effect is based on the mere covering of the treated skin areas and the resulting water build-up in the underlying horny layer. Coapplizierte Hygroscopic substances bind the water, making it a measurable increase of the water content in the horny layer. This purely physical barrier can but can be removed relatively easily. After stopping the product, the Skin quickly returns to the state before the start of treatment. About that In addition, the skin care effect can wear off with regular treatment, so that finally, the status quo is reached again even during treatment. at Certain products worsen the skin condition after being discontinued Temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually not or only achieved to a limited extent.

To support the deficient skin in its natural regeneration and its In recent times, topical preparations have increasingly been used to strengthen physiological function Intercellular lipid mixtures added by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier should be used. However, these are lipids, but especially the ceramides, which are very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect usually much less than hoped.

The aim of the present invention was therefore to find ways to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art to avoid technology. In particular, the effect of skin care products be physiological, fast and sustainable.

Skin care in the sense of the present invention is to be understood primarily that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, Chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. Water, lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are on known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer limited in scope and time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the Horny layer is essentially based on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated Skin areas. The ointment or cream represents a (second) artificial barrier, so to speak which should prevent water loss from the skin. This can be done easily physical barrier - for example with detergents - can be removed again the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the Reduce skin care effect with regular treatment. After stopping the Product application quickly returns the skin to its state Start of treatment back. With certain products, the skin condition worsens below Even temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually therefore not achieved or only to a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the skin's barrier function is even a selective barrier damage, which should enable active ingredients can penetrate into or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance the skin is partially accepted as a side effect.

The effect of nourishing cleaning products is essentially one efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. By the simultaneous Reducing the surfactant content of such preparations can damage the Further limit the horny layer barrier.

The prior art, however, lacks preparations which the Barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer positively influence the physico-chemical properties of the horny layer and especially the lamella Strengthen or even restore intercellular lipids.

The object of the present invention was therefore to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art to eliminate. In particular, skin care preparations and preparations for Skin cleansing will be provided, which is the barrier properties of the skin Preserve or restore skin, especially when the natural regeneration of the Skin is not sufficient. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage skin drying, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic Processes or neurodermatitis. Task of the present It was also an invention to provide stable skin-care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents to provide the skin with protection from environmental influences such as sun and wind protect. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, fast and be sustainable.

In a further preferred embodiment, the present invention relates cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as B. the unwanted pigmentation, for example local hyper- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. liver spots, Freckles), but also for purely cosmetic brightening larger, the individual skin type with adequately pigmented skin areas.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin lowest layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on Skin type either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cells can be found. Melanocytes contain as characteristic Cell organelles melanosomes, which form melanin when stimulated by UV radiation. This is transported into the keratinocytes and calls one more or less pronounced brown or brown skin color.

Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process, in which tyrosine is present Contribution of the enzyme tyrosinase via 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (dopa), dopa- Quinone, leucodopachrome, dopachrome, 5,6-dihydroxyindole and indole-5,6-quinone is finally converted into melanin.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes Side effects of many biological processes, e.g. B. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, Ephelides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

Active ingredients and preparations are known which are used for skin pigmentation counteract. In practice, preparations based on Hydroquinone, some of which only take effect after several weeks of use show their excessive use on the other hand for toxicological reasons is questionable. The inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, Ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives are common, but have cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

The object of the present invention was also to remedy these shortcomings.

The aim of skin care is also to reduce the fat and fat caused by daily washing Compensate for skin water loss. This is especially important when the natural Regeneration capacity is not sufficient. In addition, skin care products are said to exist Protect environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and skin aging delay.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach Waschen).

The chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

• a) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Guperosis);
• b) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• c) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken) und
• d) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective and e.g. B. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it occurs in particular due to exogenous factors such. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

• a) Visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, guperosis);
• b) flaccidity and wrinkling;
• c) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and
• d) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention particularly relates to products for the care of the natural Wise aged skin, as well as to treat the consequential damage of light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. B. Retinoids (Vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their effect on structural damage is limited in scope. Furthermore there are considerable difficulties in product development, the active ingredients in sufficient to stabilize against oxidative decay. The use of vitamin A In addition, acidic products often cause severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with a effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for Protect cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the ingredients cosmetic preparations before harmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are found in skin care cosmetic or dermatological preparations are used. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the Present invention cosmetic and dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and Treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as B. the Skin aging, especially skin aging caused by oxidative processes.

The present invention further relates to active substances and preparations, such Containing active ingredients for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, especially dermatoses.

In a further advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates Active ingredient combinations and preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of serve light-sensitive skin, especially photodermatoses.

The harmful effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. During rays with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB area, an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight, the narrower range is around 308 nm specified.

Numerous compounds are known for protecting against UVB radiation, in which it are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, Salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA Area, it is important to have filter substances available because of its rays May cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA Radiation damage the elastic and collagen fibers of the Connective tissue causes what causes the skin to age prematurely and that it is more numerous as a cause phototoxic and photoallergic reactions can be seen. The harmful influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.

To protect against UVA rays, certain derivatives of the Dibenzoylmethans used, their photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)), is not sufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with skin metabolism.

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Also undefined radical photo products that are created in the skin itself show uncontrolled follow-up reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the Oxygen molecules can occur with UV radiation, as can short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, usually stands out from that existing triplet oxygen (radical ground state) due to increased reactivity.

However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the Oxygen molecule.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that Ionic species are also formed when exposed to UV, which in turn oxidatively enters the able to intervene in biochemical processes.

To prevent these reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological Formulations additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated.

It has already been suggested vitamin E, a substance known to be use antioxidant effect in light protection formulations, but still remains here achieved effect far behind the hoped for.

The object of the invention was therefore also cosmetic, dermatological and to create active pharmaceutical ingredients and preparations and light protection formulations which for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, especially photodermatoses, preferably serve PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca- Acne and a variety of other terms as used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al. Zentralblatt Skin and STDs (1989), 156, p. 2), are specified.

Mainly, antioxidants are used as protective substances against the spoilage of them containing preparations used. Nevertheless, it is known that also in the undesirable oxidation processes can occur in human and animal skin. Such Processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology ", pp. 323ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), become oxidative Skin damage and its closer causes are listed.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions can be cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally include antioxidants and / or radical scavengers, be loved.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. So is already in the U.S. Patents 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and numerous other documents Vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect in Use sunscreen formulations, but the effect achieved remains far behind the hoped for.

• a) einer oder mehreren Ascorbylverbindungen und
• b) α-Liponsäure.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways which avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect of remedying the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging and the prophylaxis should be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects. According to the invention, the deficiencies of the prior art are eliminated by combinations of active substances

• a) one or more ascorbyl compounds and
• b) α-lipoic acid.

• - besser die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen,
• - besser der Hautaustrocknung entgegenwirken,
• - besser gegen Pigmentstörungen wirken,
• - besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken und
• - die Haut besser vor Umwelteinflüssen schützen

als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik. The active substance combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing such active substance combinations are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

• - better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,
• - counteract dehydration better,
• - work better against pigment disorders,
• - work better against skin aging and
• - better protect the skin from environmental influences

than the preparations of the prior art.

• - von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden,
• - von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z. B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• - von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• - von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• - von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• - von Juckreiz,
• - von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• - von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum,
• - von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo

möglich. Der erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffes bzw. kosmetischer oder topischer dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäßem Wirkstoff dient aber auch in überraschender Weise

• - zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut,
• - zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese,
• - zur Stimulation der Ceramidsynthese der Haut,
• - zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen,
• - zur Steigerung der Zellerneuerung und Regeneration der Haut,
• - zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine),
• - zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

When using the active substance combinations used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active substance combinations used according to the invention is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis

• - deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages,
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - of environmental (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and especially light-related negative changes in the skin and the appendages,
• - from light-related skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from itching,
• - from dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders,
• - of hair loss and for improved hair growth,
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also serves in a surprising manner

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin,
• - to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis,
• - to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin,
• - to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions,
• - to increase cell renewal and skin regeneration,
• - to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins),
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

Some publications describe the use of NO synthase inhibitors and Ascorbyl compounds such as WO-98/09653, WO-97/15280 and WO- 96/26711. Nevertheless, the state of the art could not be the way in the direction of present invention.

• a) einer oder mehreren Ascorbylverbindungen und
• b) α-Liponsäure

zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung von entzündlichen Hautzuständen - auch dem atopischen Ekzem - und/oder zum Hautschutz bei empfindlich determinierter trockener Haut. According to the invention, the use of active substance combinations is accordingly also out

• a) one or more ascorbyl compounds and
• b) α-lipoic acid

for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection for sensitive, determined dry skin.

• a) einer oder mehreren Ascorbylverbindungen und
• b) α-Liponsäure

zur Herstellung von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Herstellung von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe von Pigmentierungsstörungen. According to the invention, the use of combinations of active ingredients is also made

• a) one or more ascorbyl compounds and
• b) α-lipoic acid

for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders.

• a) einer oder mehreren Ascorbylverbindungen und
• b) α-Liponsäure

zur Herstellung von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe der Symptome der intrinsischen und/oder extrinsischen Hautalterung sowie zur Behandlung und Prophylaxe der schädlichen Auswirkungen ultravioletter Strahlung auf die Haut. According to the invention, the use of combinations of active ingredients is also made

• a) one or more ascorbyl compounds and
• b) α-lipoic acid

for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

• a) einer oder mehreren Ascorbylverbindungen und
• b) α-Liponsäure

zur Herstellung von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Steigerung der Ceramidbiosynthese. According to the invention, the use of combinations of active ingredients is also made

• a) one or more ascorbyl compounds and
• b) α-lipoic acid

for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for increasing ceramide biosynthesis.

• a) einer oder mehreren Ascorbylverbindungen und
• b) α-Liponsäure

zur Herstellung von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Stärkung der Barrierefunktion der Haut. According to the invention, the use of combinations of active ingredients is also made

• a) one or more ascorbyl compounds and
• b) α-lipoic acid

for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention work in all of these uses synergistic with respect to the individual components.

α-Lipoic acid was isolated from liver tissue in 1952 and its structure as sulfur-containing Fatty acid cleared up. Bacteria, plants and higher organisms can be found in α-lipoic acid manufacture their metabolism themselves, for humans the question is their own Biosynthesis still open.

α-Lipoic acid is used to treat polyneuropathy, a sensitivity disorder on the hands and feet used as a late consequence of diabetes. 200 to 600 milligrams of α-lipoic acid per Day lead to a significant reduction in pain intensity. The The energy metabolism of the hand and foot nerves is activated by α-lipoic acid, which is why better nerve conductivity and thus less numbness and Reflex failures.

α-Lipoic acid lowers pathologically increased liver values and promotes the healing of the Hepatitis. Most foods contain small amounts of α-lipoic acid, only in Meat can be found at relatively high levels. It is recognized that α-lipoic acid is strong has antioxidant properties.

WO-97/10808 and US-5,472,698 describe the cosmetic use of α-lipoic acid against symptoms of aging. DE 42 42 876 describes Active ingredient combinations of biotin and antioxidants with α-lipoic acid for cosmetic and / or dermatological care of the skin and / or skin appendages and cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing such combinations of active ingredients.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, of α-lipoic acid, based on the total composition of the preparations.

The use of ascorbic acid in cosmetics and dermatics is known per se. L- ascorbic acid {(R) -5 - [(S) -1,2-dihydroxyethyl] -3,4-dihydroxy-5-H-furan-2-one, vitamin C} is characterized by the structural formula


out. It is easily soluble in water, readily soluble in alcohol, insoluble in ether, petroleum ether, chloroform, benzene and in fats and the like. fatty oils. Ascorbic acid is an endiol and has a strongly reducing effect as a reduction. Ascorbic acid is sensitive to heat and is decomposed by light and atmospheric oxygen, especially in the presence of traces of heavy metals and in an alkaline environment. In a pure, dry state, however, it is relatively resistant to light, air and heat.

Ascorbic acid is an advantageous ascorbyl compound in the sense of the present Invention.

In cosmetic and dermatological preparations instead of ascorbic acid often ascorbyl compounds, especially ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, especially preferably used ascorbyl palmitate because of the sensitivity of these compounds oxidative influence against the ascorbic acid is greatly reduced and this Compounds are usually better oil-soluble, which can offer pharmaceutical advantages.

Ascorbyl compounds for the purposes of the present invention are also, in particular, the ascorbyl esters of the general structure


where R can represent a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having up to 25 carbon atoms.

Ascorbylglycosides are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, in particular the ascorbylglucosides, in particular the ascorbyl-2-glucoside, which has the structure


is played.

Advantageous ascorbyl compounds for the purposes of the present invention are also the ascorbyl phosphates, particularly advantageously the ascorbyl 2-phosphates of ascorbic acid or its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, zinc salts or mixed salts of such cations.

Shown above is a triple deprotonated ascorbyl phosphate ion, though also other deprotonation stages are advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

Also preferred are the sodium, magnesium and zinc salts, for example that Sodium ascorbyl.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the Invention 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-5% by weight, of one or more Ascorbyl compounds, based on the total composition of the preparations.

The weight ratios of one or more are preferred Ascorbyl compounds to α-lipoic acid in the active ingredient combinations and preparations, such Containing active ingredient preparations, selected from the range from 50: 1 to 1:50, advantageously the range from 20: 1 to 1:20.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention that according to the invention used combination of active ingredients or cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective content of used according to the invention Active ingredient combination for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis to use undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing the inventive Contain active ingredient combinations, usual antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin , Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, peptides, hexathinsine sulfones, pentane) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium) , Stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Prophylaxis or cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the Active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the invention The active ingredient used is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the Active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of used according to the invention Active ingredient is applied to the affected skin.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into usual cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which come in different forms can be present. So you can z. B. a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W / O) or of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), one Hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol represent.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form of a Cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. B. fats, Oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more Emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention that Active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for Insert cleaning of the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. The Cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore be cosmetic auxiliaries contain, as they are usually used in such preparations, for. B. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, Insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, Pigments with coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding formulation requirements apply medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. The For the sake of simplicity, it becomes a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the statutory provisions the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and Drugs Act).

The preparations according to the invention advantageously, although not necessarily, contain also substances that absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, is preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparations to make cosmetic preparations available put the hair or skin in front of the entire area of ultraviolet radiation protect. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or skin. Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid


and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt


with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) , which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:


where R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris ( 2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif


are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical; optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly advantageous UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula


is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are to be used advantageously and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula


is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl-carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethyl-carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4- Bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and that 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyltriazole ], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula


is identified and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA Chemical GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula


is marked.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• - sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:

It can also be of considerable advantage to be polymer-bound or polymeric To use UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to use further UV-A and / or incorporate UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), Zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, although not mandatory if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i. that is are treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.

One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification
n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)
is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYGA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline Solids, for example inorganic micropigments in the inventive Preparations are to be incorporated, including anionic, nonionic and / or contain amphoteric surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that are organic, non-polar Can dissolve substances in water.

• - anionische Tenside,
• - kationische Tenside,
• - amphotere Tenside und
• - nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ H ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COOO B + (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. B. Na ⁺ .

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoylhydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium Cocoylhydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-Lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. AcylLactylate, Lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat,
• 6. Alaninate,

Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wie

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat,

Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10-Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat,
Sulfonsäuren und Salze, wie

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z. B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12-14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie
Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12-13 Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA- Laurylsulfat.

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate,
• 6. alaninates,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. acyl isethionates, e.g. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats.

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that has 4 alkyl or aryl groups is covalently linked. Regardless of the pH, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can also be preferred are selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or Cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic Character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or Alkylaminoethyldimethylamine. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous use.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid,
• 6. Sucroseester, -Ether,
• 7. Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester,
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren.

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside,
• 6. sucrose esters, ethers,
• 7. polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters,
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight. are present in the preparations according to the invention, based on the total weight of the preparations.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C- Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkylbenzoate;
• - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such. B. castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the Group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageous are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the saturated and / or triglycerol esters unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention. It can also be advantageous if necessary be waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2-200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (eg decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention silicone oil to be used. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention, for example Undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, Behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and are also advantageous those made from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

However, it is also advantageous to use silicone oils of a constitution similar to that above to select designated compounds whose organic side chains derivatize, for example, are polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl- Dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl 4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, also alcohols low C number, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and in particular a or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain in particular advantageously one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be beneficial are selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, Layered silicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or several hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be from the aforementioned group to get voted.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and Forming resins or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can be advantageous in Gum arabic, for example Carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, Agar, Algine, Chondrus, Xanthan Gum.

Another advantage is the use of derivatized gums such. B. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, chitin and Chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. B. methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates include naturally occurring and synthetic ones Clays such as B. montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as. B. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

Among the polyacrylates are e.g. B. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. B. polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), Polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions contain one or several emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be chosen from the Group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

• a) Partialfettsäureester und Fettsäureester mehrwertiger Alkohole und deren ethoxylierte Derivate (z. B. Glycerylmonostearate, Sorbitaristearate, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate)
• b) ethoxylierte Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren
• c) ethoxilierte Fettamine, Fettsäureamide, Fettsäurealkanolamide
• d) Alkylphenolpolyglycolether (z. B. Triton X).

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitaristearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X).

• a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat)
• b) Fettalkoholsulfate
• c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate.

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates.

• a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride.

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride.

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine
• c) Imidazolinderivate.

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) Imidazoline derivatives.

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, including beeswax, Wool wax, lecithin and sterols belong to it.

• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• - der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• - der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• - der Cholesterinethoxylate
• - der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH und n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• - der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• - der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H,
• - der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• - der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• - der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(CH₂CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH,
• - der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H,
• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g. B .:

• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - The ethoxylated triglycerides
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The propoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO- (CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
• the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H, on which these sulfates are based,
• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers chosen from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, especially advantageous with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated Have radicals R and R '. The O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or areoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value can be such Emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, 20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate.

As an ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt, this can be advantageous Sodium urethane-11-carboxylate can be used.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides Primrose Glycerides can be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, Polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also cheap to use the sorbitan esters from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 Carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C- Atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms as well as sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, Sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, Selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, Glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise. Example 1 O / W emulsion

Example 2 O / W emulsion

Example 3 O / W emulsion

Example 4 O / W emulsion

Example 5 O / W emulsion

Example 6 O / W emulsion

Example 7 W / O / W emulsion

The fat phase, which contains the emulsifier, is heated to 80 ° C, separated from it also the water phase. At 80 ° C both phases are combined, homogenized for about 10 minutes and then cooled to room temperature (one-pot process). The formation of the W / O / W emulsion must be checked microscopically. Example 8 W / O Emulsion

Example 9 W / O Emulsion

Example 10 W / O emulsion

Claims (10)

1. Active ingredient combinations a) one or more ascorbyl compounds and b) α-lipoic acid. 2. Use of active ingredient combinations according to claim 1, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in sensitive determined dry skin. 3. Use of active ingredient combinations according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of Pigmentation. 4. Use of active ingredient combinations according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the Symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for treatment and Prevention of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin. 5. Use of active ingredient combinations according to claim 1, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations to increase ceramide biosynthesis. 6. Use of active ingredient combinations according to claim 1, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations to strengthen the barrier function of the skin. 7. drug combinations according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of the under (a) and (b) substances from the range of 20: 1 to 1:20 is selected. 8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing Active substance combinations according to claim 1. 9. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that they 0.001-10 wt .-% on one or more ascorbyl compounds, based on the total weight of the Preparations. 10. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that they 0.001-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, of α-lipoic acid, based on the Overall composition of the preparations.