DE10111045A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations, useful e.g. for treating inflammatory skin disorders, pigmentation disorders or aging, containing combination of alpha-lipoic acid and (iso)flavone, flavanone or flavonoid - Google Patents

Abstract

New active agent combinations comprise (A) alpha -lipoic acid and (B) at least one of flavones, flavanones, isoflavones or flavonoids. An Independent claim is included for cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing the (A)/(B) active agent combinations.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations enthal active agents for the care and protection of the skin, in particular the sensitive skin as well as in the foreground standing by the intrinsic and / or extrinsi aging or aging skin and the use of such active substances and Combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological Skin care.

Under cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place that the natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic Substances or infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

In old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, in particular especially the water binding capacity of the horny layer decreases. It becomes inflexible bad, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the result. The Skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, Toxi and allergens. As a result, it can even lead to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.  

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, barrier damage is a priori. Epi dermal intercellular lipids become defective or inadequate formed. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horny layer and a Inadequate protection of the skin from loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be determined by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). These are the Evaporation of water from inside the body without the loss of water while sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proved extremely informative and may be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine Ver tolerability of chemically diverse surfactants and the like more be withdrawn.

For the beauty and nourishment of the skin is the water content in the uppermost skin layer of highest importance. You can do it to a limited extent by introducing Humidity regulators favorably influence.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally constituents of cleaning preparations, can increase the pH in the horny layer for a long time, which means regenerative processes, which serve the restoration and renewal of the barrier function of the skin, be strong prevents. In this case, in the horny layer arises between regeneration and loss Essential substances by regular extraction a new, often very unfavorable State of equilibrium, which is the external appearance of the skin and the physiologi The function of the horny layer is decisively impaired.

Even in a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants, it comes first a swelling of the horny layer of the skin, the degree of swelling of, for example, the duration of the bath and its temperature depends. At the same time become water-soluble Fabrics, e.g. B. water-soluble soil constituents, but also skin-own substances, which are responsible for the Water binding capacity of the horny layer are responsible, washed off or washed out. In addition, the skin's own surface-active substances also make skin fats into a certain amount dimensions solved and washed out. This requires after initial swelling one after  following significant dehydration of the skin, which is enhanced by detergent additives can be.

For healthy skin, these processes are generally trivial, since the protective mechanism In the skin, such minor disorders of the upper layers of the skin are easily compensated can. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, z. B. by environmental wear or irritation, photodamage, aging skin etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Maybe he is then no longer able to fulfill its task on its own and must by external Measures are regenerated.

In addition, it is known that the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically changed, dry and dry, but not affected skin younger and normal people deviates from the normal state, which in the healthy, normal hyd skin of the same age group is found. In doing so, the changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopi Eczema is an extreme case of the abnormalities that skin in dry skin sunder people are found.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides, which are strong in their quantity reduced and additionally composed differently. Striking is special here Way the deficit of the ceramides 1 and 3, wherein in particular for the ceramide 1 be It is known that the order of the lipids in the intercellular membrane is particularly important increases systems.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the kind outlined above possibly on misdirected lipid biosynthesis and also increase the end effect transepidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness turn makes the inherently healthy skin is more sensitive and, in the individual case, can be eczematous Contribute to processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration of the horny layer usually does not consist in restoring or strengthening the physika  chemical properties of the lamellae from intercellular lipids. An essential part Effect is based on the mere coverage of the treated skin areas and the resulting resul water accumulation in the underlying horny layer. Coapplied hygroscopic Substances bind the water, causing a measurable increase in the amount of water Haltes in the horny layer comes. However, this purely physical barrier can be relatively easy be removed again. After stopping the product, the skin then returns very quickly back to the state before treatment. In addition, the skin care with regular treatment, so that eventually even during the Treatment of the status quo is achieved again. For certain products deteriorates The condition of the skin may be temporary after weaning. A sustainable one Product effect is therefore usually not or only to a limited extent he enough.

To support the deficient skin in their natural regeneration and their phy To strengthen siological function, topical preparations are increasingly becoming more recent Intercellular lipid mixtures are added by the skin to rebuild the natural Barrier should be used. However, these lipids, in particular But the ceramides are very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually very much ge ringer than hoped.

The aim of the present invention was thus to find ways to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art Technology to avoid. In particular, the effect of the skincare products should be physiolo be quick, fast and sustainable.

Skincare in the sense of the present invention is to be understood in the first place that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, Chemi microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, Lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are on known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydra tized and smooth horny layer and limited in time.  

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the horn layer is essentially based on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated skin areas. The ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier, which the What to prevent skin loss Accordingly, this physical barrier - for example with cleaning agents - are removed again, causing the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect can help ease regular treatment. After discontinuing the product application, the Skin returns very quickly to the condition before treatment. For certain The condition of the skin may even temporarily deteriorate. A sustainable product effect is usually not or only in one reached limited dimensions.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin is even in a selective barrier damage that should allow active ingredients in or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance of the Skin is partially accepted as a side effect in part.

The effect of nourishing cleansing products is essentially efficiencies Regenerating with sebum lipid-like substances. By the simultaneous reduction the surfactant content of such preparations can be the damage to the horny layer barrier further limit.

The prior art, however, lacks preparations which have the barrier function and positively influence the hydration of the horny layer and the physico-chemical Properties of the horny layer and in particular of the lamellae from intercellular lipids ken or even restore.

The object of the present invention was thus to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remove. In particular, skin-care preparations and preparations should be used for Rei skin are provided, showing the barrier properties of the skin maintain or restore, especially if the natural regeneration of the skin is not sufficient. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to the skin drying, such as fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes  or atopic dermatitis, be suitable. Object of the present invention was Also, stable skin care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents available which protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular the effect of the preparations should be physiological, fast and sustainable.

In a further preferred embodiment, the present invention relates cosmeti and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions such. As the unwanted pigmentation at For example, local hyper- and Fehlpigmentierungen (for example liver spots, summer sprouts), but also for purely cosmetic brightening larger, the individual skin type in itself quite appropriate pigmented skin areas.

Responsible for the pigmentation of the skin are the melanocytes, which are in the lowest Layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, in addition to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cell len are found. Melanocytes contain Melanoso as characteristic cell organelles Men, who amplify melanin when stimulated by UV radiation. This will be in the Ke Ratinozyten transported and calls a more or less pronounced brownish or brewing ne skin color.

Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine under Involvement of the enzyme tyrosinase via 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (Dopa), dopa-quinone, Leucodopachrom, dopachrome, 5,6-dihydroxyindole and indole-5,6-quinone finally in Mela nin is converted.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have many causes or are companions phenomena of many biological processes, eg. B. UV radiation (eg freckles, Ephe lides), genetic disposition, skin pigmentation in wound healing or verifying scarring or skin aging (eg lentigines seniles).

Active ingredients and preparations are known which counteract skin pigmentation Act. In practical use are essentially preparations based on Hydroquinone, which however on the one hand only after several weeks of application zei effect  on the other hand, for toxicological reasons is thoughtful. Also, the inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives is common, but has cosmetic and dermato logical disadvantages.

To remedy these evils, was the object of the present invention.

The aim of skin care is also the fat and what caused by daily washing to balance the skin's loss of energy. This is especially important when the natural rain capacity is insufficient. In addition, skin care products to Umwelteinflüs protect against sun and wind, and retard skin aging.

The chronological skin aging is z. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In epidermis and dermis it comes due to aging z. As to the following structural damage and dysfunction, which can also be covered by the term "senile xerosis" NEN:

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) diminished fatty acid regeneration (eg after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can be cumulatively effective and z. B. accelerate the endogenous aging processes or supplement them. In epidermis and dermis it comes in particular by exogenous factors z. As to the following structural damage and dysfunction in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage in chronic aging:

• a) Visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis);
• b) slack and wrinkle formation;
• c) local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentations (eg age spots) and
• d) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to natural care products  aged skin, as well as for the treatment of the consequential damage of photoaging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain z. B. retinoids (Vita min A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Your us However, the damage to the structural damage is limited in scope. There is beyond that in the product development considerable difficulties, the active ingredients sufficiently To stabilize against oxidative decomposition. The use of vitamin A acid-containing Pro In addition, the symptoms often cause severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids are therefore can only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations having a Wirk Protects against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for protection cosmetic preparations themselves or for the protection of the ingredients of cosmetic Zube preparations for harmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are in skin care cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Insbeson The invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, such An containing antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and treatment cosmetic or dermatological lesions such. As skin aging, in particular especially the aging caused by oxidative processes.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to active ingredients and preparations, such active ingredients containing, for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis erythema töser, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive phenomena, in particular Dermatoses.

The present invention relates in a further advantageous embodiment Wirk substance combinations and preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of the light sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is all  commonly known. While rays with a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB Area, an erythema, a simple sunburn, or even more or less severe Burns.

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight, the narrower area becomes 308 nm indicated.

For protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known, which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, Sali cylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA Area, it is important to have available filter substances, as its rays Reacti on light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation too Damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue leads to what the Skin ages prematurely, and that they are the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoaller gischer reactions can be seen. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be due to UVA radiation can be amplified.

For protection against the rays of the UVA range, therefore, certain derivatives of Di benzoylmethane, their photostability (Int J. Cosm., Science 10, 53 (1988)), not is given sufficiently.

The UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the Photochemical reaction products in the skin metabolism intervene.

Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Also undefined Radical photoproducts, which arise in the skin itself, can due to their ho Reactivity uncontrolled subsequent reactions to the day. But also Singulettsauer substance, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can be  Irradiation occur, as are short-lived epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen at For example, in comparison with the normally existing triplet oxygen (ra basic ground state) due to increased reactivity. However, there are also some excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

Furthermore, UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that too ionic species are formed upon UV exposure, which in turn oxidatively into the bioche mixing processes are able to intervene.

To prevent these reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological For emulsions additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers are incorporated.

It has already been suggested Vitamin E, a substance known to be more antioxidant To use effect in sunscreen formulations, yet here is the achieved We kung far behind the hoped for.

The object of the invention was therefore also cosmetic, dermatological and pharmi to provide active substances and preparations as well as sunscreen formulations which are suitable for Prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, be preferably PLD serve.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis include PLD, PLE, Mallorca Acne and a variety of other designations as described in the literature (e.g., A. Voelckel et al. Zentralblatt skin and venereal diseases (1989), 156, p. 2).

Mainly antioxidants are used as protective substances against the spoilage of them ent holding preparations used. Nevertheless, it is known that also in the human and animal skin unwanted oxidation processes can occur. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in the Matology, p. 323 et seq. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jür Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley, California), become oxidative damage  the skin and its nearer causes listed.

Also for the reason to prevent such reactions, cosmetic or the In addition, antioxidants and / or radical scavengers are incorporated into matological formulations become.

Although some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. So is already in the US patent 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from many other documents Vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect in sunscreen Nevertheless, the achieved effect remains far behind hoped for back.

The object of the present invention was thus to find ways of avoiding the disadvantages of the invention Avoid prior art. In particular, the effect of remedy the with the endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging related damage and the Prophylaxis be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

According to the invention, the evils of the prior art are eliminated by drug combinations

• a) α-lipoic acid and
• b) one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, Isoflavones or flavonoids.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations are in all respects extremely satisfactory preparations. It was not foreseeable for the expert that the preparation according to the invention

• - better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,
• - better counteract skin dehydration,
• - better against pigment disorders,
• - Act better against aging skin and
• - Protect the skin better from environmental influences

as the preparations of the prior art.  

When using the active compound combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention, surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis, is effective

• - of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive states of skin appendages
• - of signs of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiect ktasien) and / or the skin appendages,
• - of environmental factors (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-induced negative changes of the skin and the skin hang educated,
• - of light-induced skin damage,
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from itching,
• Dry skin conditions and corneal barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth,
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrhoeic eczema, polymorphic photodermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermato logical preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention is used but also in a surprising way

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin,
• - to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis,
• To stimulate ceramide synthesis of the skin,
• - To stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficit or hypoactive skin conditions,
• - to increase the cell renewal and regeneration of the skin,
• - To increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (for example for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins),
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasion treatments that z. B. the reduction of skin folds and scars serve to the resulting skin irritation and counteract the regeneration processes in the promote injured skin.

Although some writings describe the use of NO synthase inhibitors and Ascor byl compounds such as WO 98/09653, WO 97/15280 and WO 96/26711. Nevertheless, the state of the art could not pave the way in the direction of the present have the invention.

According to the invention therefore also the use of drug combinations

• 1. α-lipoic acid and
• 2. one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, Isoflavones or flavonoids,

for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including the atopic Eczema and / or skin protection for sensitive dry skin.

According to the invention is also the use of drug combinations from

• 1. α-lipoic acid and
• 2. one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, Isoflavones or flavonoids,

for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders.

According to the invention is also the use of drug combinations from

• a) α-lipoic acid and
• b) one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, Isoflavones or flavonoids,

for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation onto the skin.

According to the invention is also the use of drug combinations from

• a) α-lipoic acid and
• b) one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, Isoflavones or flavonoids,

for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for increasing the Ceramidbiosynthese.

According to the invention is also the use of drug combinations from

• a) α-lipoic acid and
• b) one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, Isoflavones or flavonoids,

for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the Barrier function of the skin.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention act synergistically in all these uses with regard to the individual components.

Alpha-lipoic acid was isolated from liver tissue in 1952 and its structure elucidated as a sulfur-containing fatty acid.

Bacteria, plants and higher organisms can use α-lipoic acid in their metabolism even for humans, the question of their own biosynthesis is still open.

α-lipoic acid is used to treat polyneuropathy, a sensory disorder in the hands and feet used as a late consequence of diabetes. 200 to 600 milligrams of α-lipoic acid per Day lead to a significant reduction in pain intensity. The energy substance Change of hand and foot nerves is activated by α-lipoic acid, this is what happens a better nerve conductivity and thus less numbness and Reflexaus cases.

α-lipoic acid lowers pathologically increased liver enzymes and promotes hepati healing tis. α-lipoic acid is present in most foods in low amounts, only in the  Meat is relatively high value to find. It is recognized that α-lipoic acid is strongly anti has oxidative properties.

WO 97/10808 and US Pat. No. 5,472,698 describe the cosmetic use of α-lipoic acid against symptoms of aging. DE-42 42 876 describes Wirkstoffkom combinations of biotin and antioxidants with α-lipoic acid for cosmetic and / or derma tological care of the skin and / or the skin appendages as well as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.001-10% by weight of α- Lipoic acid, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Flavone and its derivatives (often collectively called "flavones") are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions given):

Some of the more important flavones found in living nature are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

Flavonoids are glycosides of flavones, the flavanones whose backbone is characterized by the following structure:

of the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) whose backbone is characterized by the following structure:

the aurone whose skeleton is characterized by the following structure:

and the isoflavones whose backbone is characterized by the following structure:

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ -Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group consisting of H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and unbranched and have 1-18 C atoms, and Gly is selected is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

According to the invention, however, the flavonoids can also be chosen advantageously from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ -Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy, such as hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and un branched and 1-18 C-atoms, and wherein Gly is selected is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

Preferably, such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent individually or jointly saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. But other He xosylreste, for example allosyl, Altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl are optionally advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Advantageously, Z ₁ -Z _{5 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, Me thoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention are particularly advantageously selected from the group which are represented by the following structure:

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent individually or jointly saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. But other He xosylreste, for example allosyl, Altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl are optionally advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, the or the Flavonglycoside from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α- Glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

A particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is α-glucosylrutin. It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is naringin (aurantiine, ringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyfly of 3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutane, rutablon, taurutin, phytomelin, melin). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid particularly advantageous according to the invention is troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4,7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) β-D glucopyranoside)). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) - β-D-glu copyrariosid)). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is dihydrorobinetine (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid particularly advantageous according to the invention is taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid particularly advantageous according to the invention is eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside), which has the following structure:

Isoflavones are flavonoids, sometimes called isoflavonoids te group of mostly yellowish-colored plant dyes derived from isoflavone. The unsubstituted main body, the actual isoflavone (3-phenylchromone, 3-phenyl-4H- 1-benzopyran-4-one) occurs in clover species.

Some more well-known isoflavones are daidzein (4 ', 7-dihydroxy-isoflavone), as 7-O-glucoside Daidzin in soya flour; Genistein (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-isoflavone) from soybeans and red clover; Prunetin (4 ', 5-dihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) from the bark of plum trees; Biocha  nin A (5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy-isoflavone) from chickpeas, red clover and other clover th; Orobol (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxy isoflavone); Santal (3 ', 4', 5-trihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) sandalwood, redwood and other woods; Pratensein (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyiso flavon) from fresh red or meadow clover. Some of these in clover and legumes like Lucerne isoflavones show estrogenic effect on grazing animals and can un circumstances lead to reproductive disorders in these.

Substitution schemes of some naturally occurring isoflavones are listed below:

The isoflavones to be used according to the invention are preferably those in the preceding Isoflavones listed in the table into consideration.

The flavone derivatives and / or flavanone derivatives, in particular flavonoids, are it advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations at from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, in particular preferably to 0.1-2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations enthal th.  

It is advantageous according to the invention, the molar ratio of (a) and (b) mentioned Substances from the range of 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1:50, in particular It is preferable to select 20: 1 to 1:20.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention, the inventively used Combination of active ingredients or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with egg nem effective content of inventively used drug combination for kosme tables or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of unwanted skin conditions to use.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound com contain common antioxidants.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg. As thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, y-linaleyl , Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. Α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alaninediacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and Derivatives (e.g., vitamin E acetate), and benzylic resin, benzylic acid, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbenoxi d) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations be preferably carries 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular Other 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the inventions used according to the active ingredient or with the cosmetic or topical derma tological preparations with an effective content of inventively used Active ingredient is carried out in the usual manner, in such a way that ver accordance with the invention used active substance or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention to the affected Skin is applied.

Advantageously, the active ingredient used in the invention can be incorporated in conventional Cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which are in various forms can. So they can z. B. a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion or of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, or a multiple emulsion, for example of the type Water in oil in water (W / O / W) or oil in water in oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or even an aerosol.

According to the invention emulsions, z. B. in the form of a Cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. Greases, oils, Waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as commonly used for such type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the erfindungsge according to the active ingredient used in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning to insert the skin and the hair.  

Of course, it is known to those skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions tongues are usually not possible without the usual auxiliaries and additives. The invention Accordingly, cosmetic preparations may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as they are usually used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, Bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, Vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments with coloring We kung, thickener, softening substances, moistening and / or moist holding substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a kosme formulations, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical Preparations.

Medical topical compositions according to the present invention included usually one or more drugs of effective concentration. The simplicity In the first place, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical applications tion and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic Germany (eg Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelge Act).

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, especially 1.0 to 6.0% by weight. is, based on the total weight of the preparations, to cosmetic Zube Preparations that provide the hair or the skin in front of the entire area protect the ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as a sunscreen for hair NEN.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, these oils may be soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3 benzylidenecamphor;  
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethyl hexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxy zimtsäureisopentylester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid (4) isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester,
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-Hy hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhe xyl) ester,
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or tri ethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo phenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their Salts and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the debasing 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding Natri um, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornyli denmethyl-10-sulfonic acid.

The list of said UVB filters, in combination with the Wirk Wirk Of course, it should not be limiting.

It may also be beneficial to use UVA filters that are commonly used in cosmetic Preparations are included. These substances are preferably Deri of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) - propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. It can be the for the amounts used in the UVB combination are used.  

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O) ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cers (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well Blends of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, although not mandatory, when the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, d. h., that they are superficial are treated water-repellent. This surface treatment may consist in that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer ver will see.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer according to a reaction according to

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)

is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 44 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from De gussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solid body, for example inorganic micropigments in the preparations according to the invention also anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric ten side included. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that are organic, nonpolar substances in what can solve this.  

The hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar radio tional groups, for example -COO ^-, OSO ₃ ^2-, -SO ₃ ^-, while the hydrophobic moieties are usually nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the nature and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• Amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2): X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12): B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Typical of non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

Advantageously used anionic surfactants are
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. Acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate and Na trium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate,
• 6. alaninates.

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. Carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and Na trium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylate,
• 3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 Cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts, such as

• 1. Acyl-isethionates, z. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14- olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laurethsulfosuc cinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Advantageously to use cationic surfactants

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. Alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N-atom containing 4 alkyl or aryl groups covalently linked. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be chosen are selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Ben alkyl trialkyl ammonium chlorides or bromides such as benzyl dimethyl steate rylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyl, for example trimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammoni umethersulfate, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds of cationic character such as amine oxides, for example Wise Alkyldimethylaminoxide or Alkylaminoethyldimethylaminoxide. Advantageous are in particular special Cetyltrimethylammoniumsalze to use.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants

• 1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example, sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sul fonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropion acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Nonionic surfactants

Advantageously used nonionic surfactants are

• 1. Alcohols,  
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. Esters obtained by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. Ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated Esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxy lierte / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such Lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside,
• 6. sucrose esters, ethers,
• 7. polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters,
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

Also advantageous is the use of a combination of anionic and / or ampho surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surfactant may be present at a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight in the preparations according to the invention are present, based on the total weight of the Zu preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes,
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, further natural oils such. B. Castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably It ter of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, eg. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol kol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoate;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and Mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from Group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched th Afkancarbonsäuren a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously from the Group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and na natural mixtures of such esters, eg. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and un branched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group the saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the Fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, ver branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, esp in particular 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageous ge are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, eg. B. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and more.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example Cetylpalmitat, einzuet as the sole lipid component of the oil phase Zen.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 - benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in terms of to use present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other Ölphasenkom components other than the silicone oil or silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

As present invention advantageously used linear silicones with multiple siloxyl units are characterized in general by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2-200,000.

Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (eg, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is added according to the invention used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are beneficial in terms of Undecamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydi methylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat, and those from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

But it is also advantageous silicone oils similar constitution as the above Neten compounds whose derivatized organic side chains, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol which is (cetyl dimethicone Copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol,  Isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or -mo nobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethy glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower alcohols C number, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular a or several thickening agents, which or which can be advantageously selected from the Group silica, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention present as emulsions contain in particular advantageously one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be chosen favorably are from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention present as hydrogels contain one or more Hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the aforementioned group become.

The gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and resins form or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can be beneficial in terms of For example, gum arabic, locust bean gum, Tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, Chondrus, xanthan gum.

Also advantageous is the use of derivatized gums such. B. hydroxypropyl Guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are z. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and Chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are z. Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

Among the phyllosilicates are naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as As montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Vee  GUM®. These may be used as such or in modified form as e.g. B. Stea rylalkonium hectorites.

Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silica gels.

Among the polyacrylates are z. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are z. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention present as emulsions contain one or more re emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated Derivatives (eg, glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearate)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) Alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (eg Triton X).

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (eg sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and Trialkylphosphosäureester and their ethoxylates.

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical z. B. Distearyldimonium chlorides.

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) imidazoline derivatives.

Furthermore, there are naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, Lecithin and sterols belong.

For example, O / W emulsifiers may be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g. B .:

• - the fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - the ethoxylated sorbitan ester
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated triglycerides
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• - the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester
• - the propoxylated sorbitan ester
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or these sulfates underlying acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• - etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or poly used are particularly advantageous propoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageous with HLB values of 14.5-15.5 if the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R ' sen. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or are isoal alkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or lower above it.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated Stearylal alcohols, cetyl alcohols, Cetylstearylalkohole (Cetearylalkohole). In particular, preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (Stea reth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), poly ethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolau reth-12),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether ( Ceteareth-17), poly ethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ce teareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, poly ethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate.

As ethoxylated alkylethercarboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be the sodium laureth- 11-carboxylate can be used.

As the alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.

As the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative, polyethylene glycol (30) may advantageously be cholesteryl ether be used. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.

As ethoxylated triglycerides may advantageously be the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides are used (Evening Primrose = Evening Primrose).

Furthermore, it is advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group poly ethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) gly ceryllaurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate,  Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl stearate, polyethylene glycol to choose col (18) glyceryl oleate cocoate.

It is also favorable, the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitanmo nolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoiso stearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 Koh lenstoffatomen, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unver branched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-Ato monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unreacted branched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, Diglyce Rinether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols ei ner chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, propylene glycol ester saturated ter and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a ketone ten length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostea rat, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoiso stearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocap rylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan mo nocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachi dyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl mono caprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The numbers Data refer to wt .-%, unless otherwise stated.  

example 1 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 4.00 PEG-40 Stearate 1.00 cetyl alcohol 3.00 Caprylic / capric 5.00 mineral oil 5.00 lipoic acid 0.20 α-glucosylrutin 0.20 tocopherol 0.10 Well ₃ HEDTA 0.10 preservative q.s. Carbomer 3.00 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 5.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 2 O / W cream

Wt .-% Glycerylate SE 3.00 stearic acid 1.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 dicaprylyl 4.00 mineral oil 2.00 lipoic acid 0.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.02 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Butyleneglycol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 3 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 Stearylalcohol 5.00 Caprylic / capric 4.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 TiO ₂ 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butylmethoxydibenzolymethan 0.50 lipoic acid 0.10 α-glucosylrutin 0.20 biotin 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.10 preservative q.s. Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 4.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 4 O / W cream

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate 3.00 cetyl alcohol 3.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 mineral oil 3.00 lipoic acid 1.00 Coenzyme Q10 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.10 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then to room temperature cooled.  

Example 5 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 sorbitan 2.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 2.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 dicaprylyl 1.00 lipoic acid 0.30 α-glucosylrutin 0.10 tocopherol 0.20 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 6 O / W cream

Wt .-% Glycerylate SE 5.00 Stearylalcohol 2.00 Caprylic / capric 2.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 dimethicone 2.00 TiO ₂ 2.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butylmethoxydibenzolymethan 0.50 lipoic acid 0.20 α-glucosylrutin 0.50 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.15 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 7 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 3.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 mineral oil 4.00 lipoic acid 0.70 α-glucosylrutin 0.80 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. Butyleneglycol 3.00 Alcohol Denat. 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 8 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 1.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00 mineral oil 2.00 lipoic acid 0.25 α-glucosylrutin 0.005 Well ₃ HEDTA 0.20 preservative q.s. Xanthan gum 0.20 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 9 O / W cream

Wt .-% stearic acid 2.50 cetyl alcohol 3.00 octyldodecanol 4.00 cyclomethicone 0.50 lipoic acid 2.00 α-glucosylrutin 0.02 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.05 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 5.00 Alcohol Denat. 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 10 O / W cream

Wt .-% stearic acid 3.50 cetyl alcohol 4.50 Cetylstearylalcohol 0.50 octyldodecanol 6.00 cyclomethicone 2.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butylmethoxydibenzolymethan 0.50 lipoic acid 0.40 α-glucosylrutin 1.00 tocopherol 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.20 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.05 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 11 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00 Anisotriazin 2.00 dioctyl 3.00 octocrylene 7.00 dioctyl 1.00 Bisimidazylat 1.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 0.50 zinc oxide 3.00 dicaprylyl 10.00 dicaprylyl 5.00 cyclomethicone 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 3.00 _MgSO4 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 lipoic acid 0.10 α-glucosylrutin 0.75 methylparaben 0.50 phenoxyethanol 0.50 ethanol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 12 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% cetyl dimethicone 2.50 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 8.00 Anisotriazin 2.50 dioctyl 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.00 octocrylene 2.50 Bisimidazylat 2.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 zinc oxide 1.00 dimethicone 4.00 cyclomethicone 25,00 octoxyglycerol 0.30 glycerin 7.50 Glycine soy 1.00 _MgSO4 0.50 lipoic acid 0.60 α-glucosylrutin 0.50 DMDM hydantoin 0.60 phenoxyethanol 0.40 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 13 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% cetyl dimethicone 4.00 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5.00 Anisotriazin 2.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 4.00 dioctyl 2.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 3.00 zinc oxide 0.50 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 9.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 8.00 dimethicone 5.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 7.50 _MgSO4 0.50 lipoic acid 1.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.05 DMDM hydantoin 0.20 methylparaben 0.15 phenoxyethanol 1.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 14 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 4.50 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 4.00 Anisotriazin 2.50 dioctyl 3.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.00 octocrylene 2.50 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 2.00 Titanium dioxide 3.00 mineral oil 8.00 dicaprylyl 7.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 4.00 cyclomethicone 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 1.00 octoxyglycerol 0.50 glycerin 2.50 MgCl ₂ 0.70 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 lipoic acid 1.00 α-glucosylrutin 0.60 phenoxyethanol 0.60 ethanol 1.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 15 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 Wool alcohol 0.50 Isohexadecan 1.00 myristate 0.50 Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 1.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.50 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 4.00 glycerin 5.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 lipoic acid 0.80 α-glucosylrutin 0.08 S-methylisothiourea 0.10 Well ₃ HEDTA 0.20 methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 16 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00 Wool alcohol 1.50 Isohexadecan 2.00 myristate 1.50 Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 2.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.50 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 3.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 5.00 Shea butter 0.50 Butyleneglycol 6.00 octoxyglycerol 3.00 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 α-glucosylrutin 0.02 diphenyleneiodonium chloride 0.15 Well ₃ HEDTA 0.20 methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 17 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 octocrylene 4.00 Bisimidazylat 0.50 Titanium dioxide 1.50 zinc oxide 2.00 mineral oil 10.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 2.00 dicaprylyl 6.00 dimethicone 1.00 Shea butter 3.00 octoxyglycerol 1.00 Glycine soy 1.50 MgCl ₂ 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.25 lipoic acid 0.25 α-glucosylrutin 0.33 DMDM hydantoin 0.40 methylparaben 0.25 ethanol 1.50 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 18 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether 1.00 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylic Crosspolymer 0.50 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 4.00 dioctyl 1.00 Bisimidazylat 1.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 0.50 Titanium dioxide 0.50 zinc oxide 0.50 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 4.00 phenyltrimethicones 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 3.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 lipoic acid 0.15 α-glucosylrutin 0.10 curcumin 0.20 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phase 07856 00070 552 001000280000000200012000285910774500040 0002010111045 00004 07737n combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 19 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Natriumcarbomer 0.20 Xanthan gum 0.30 Anisotriazin 1.50 dioctyl 2.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 4.00 octocrylene 4.00 zinc oxide 1.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.50 dicaprylyl 4.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 dimethicone 0.50 Shea butter 2.00 glycerin 7.50 lipoic acid 0.60 α-glucosylrutin 1.50 DMDM hydantoin 0.60 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 2.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 20 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% cetyl alcohol 1.00 Acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.40 Xanthan gum 0.15 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 octocrylene 4.00 Bisimidazylat 0.50 Titanium dioxide 2.00 zinc oxide 3.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 2.00 dicaprylyl 6.00 dimethicone 1.00 octoxyglycerol 1.00 Glycine soy 1.50 Vitamin E acetate 0.25 lipoic acid 1.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.01 DMDM hydantoin 0.40 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 1.50 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 21 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether 0.50 Natriumcarbomer 0.30 Acrylate C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.10 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5.00 Anisotriazin 2.00 dioctyl 2.00 ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 dioctyl 2.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 3.00 Titanium dioxide 3.00 Butylenglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 6.00 Phenyl 0.50 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 7.50 lipoic acid 1.00 Carboxy-PTIO potassium 0.25 α-glucosylrutin 0.02 DMDM hydantoin 0.20 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 22 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Acrylate / C _10-40 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.10 Xanthan gum 0.50 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 8.00 Anisotriazin 2.50 dioctyl 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.00 octocrylene 2.50 Bisimidazylat 2.00 Titanium dioxide 1.00 zinc oxide 2.00 phenyltrimethicones 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 1.00 octoxyglycerol 0.50 glycerin 2.50 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 lipoic acid 0.80 α-glucosylrutin 0.02 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 1.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 23 Gel Cream

Wt .-% Acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.40 Carbomer 0.20 Xanthan gum 0.10 Cetylstearylalkohol 3.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 4.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 cyclomethicone 5.00 dimethicone 1.00 lipoic acid 0.20 α-glucosylrutin 0.40 glycerin 3.00 sodium hydroxide q.s. preservation q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 AL = L <pH value set to 6.0

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature chilled:  

Example 24 W / O Cream

Wt .-% Lameform® TGI 3.50 glycerin 3.00 Dehymuls® PGPH 3.50 lipoic acid 0.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.02 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. magnesium sulfate 0.60 isopropyl 2.00 dicaprylyl 8.00 Cetylstearylisononanoat 6.00 Water, demin. ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two phases combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and then cooled to room temperature cooled.  

Example 25 W / O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 3.00 PEG-100 stearate 0.75 behenyl 2.00 Caprylic / capric 8.00 octyldodecanol 5.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00 lipoic acid 1.00 α-glucosylrutin 0.02 _MgSO4 0.80 EDTA 0.10 preservation q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 AL = L <pH adjusted to 6.0

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then with the water phase and combined to a temperature of 80-85 ° C (i.e., in the phase inversion tempera temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (ie from the Phase inversion temperature range of the system brought out again).

Claims (11)

1. drug combinations from

• a) α-lipoic acid and
• b) one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, isoflavones or flavonoids.

2. Use of active compound combinations according to claim 1 for the preparation of kosmeti or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of ent inflammatory skin conditions and / or skin protection in susceptible dryers Skin. 3. Use of active compound combinations according to claim 1 for the preparation of kosmeti or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pig mentierungsstörungen. 4. Use of active compound combinations according to claim 1 for the preparation of kosmeti or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for treatment and prophylaxis the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin 5. Use of active compound combinations according to claim 1 for the preparation of kosmeti or dermatological preparations for the manufacture of cosmetic or derma tological preparations for increasing ceramide biosynthesis. 6. Use of active compound combinations according to claim 1 for the preparation of kosmeti or dermatological preparations for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations Matological preparations to strengthen the barrier function of the skin. 7. active ingredient combinations according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of the under (a) and (b) substances from the range of 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1: 50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1: 20 is selected.   8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of Wirkstoffkombina tions according to claim 1 or 8. 9. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that they are 0.001-10 wt .-% of α-lipoic acid, based on the total weight of the preparations. 10. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that the preparations Kon concentrations of 0.000 001-5% by weight of one or more active substances selected from the group of flavones, flavanones, isoflavones or flavonoids. 11. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that the or the Flavonderi vate is selected from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-Glu cosylisoquercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercitrin, naringin, hesperidin, rutin, Troxerutin, Monoxerutin, Dihydrorobinetin, Taxifolin, Eriodictyol-7-glucoside, Flavanomareïn.