DE10132341A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing apoferritin, useful e.g. for treatment and prophylaxis of inflammatory skin conditions, pigmentation disorders, dryness and aging symptoms - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations (A) containing apoferritin (I) are new.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations, Containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, especially sensitive ones Skin as well as especially in the foreground due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors of aged or aging skin and the use of such Active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care means primarily that the natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, the absorption of toxic or allergenic substances may increase Substances or for infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

With old skin, for example, regenerative renewal is slowed down, whereby in particular, the water retention capacity of the horny layer decreases. It will therefore inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). Barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, Toxins and allergens. As a result, it can even become toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids become defective or in insufficient quantity or Composition formed. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horny layer and insufficient protection of the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and Water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be determined by determining the transepidermal Water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss) can be quantified. It refers to the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without involving the Water loss when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extraordinary proven informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine the Compatibility of chemically different types of surfactants and the like be used.

For the beauty and care of the skin, the water content is in the top Skin layer of paramount importance. You can go through it to a limited extent Influence the introduction of moisture regulators favorably.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations can increase the pH in the horny layer for a long time, which is regenerative Processes that restore and renew the barrier function of the skin severely disabled. In this case there is between regeneration and in the horny layer the loss of essential substances through regular extraction a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium, which affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer is significantly impaired.

A simple water bath without the addition of surfactants is the first step swelling of the horny layer of the skin, the degree of this swelling, for example depends on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time water-soluble substances, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt constituents, but also skin's own substances that are for the water retention capacity of the horny layer are responsible for washed out. The skin's own surface-active substances also remove skin fats To some extent solved and washed out. After initial swelling, this requires a subsequent significant dehydration of the skin caused by wash-active additives can be reinforced.

With healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant because the Protective mechanisms of the skin easily such minor disorders of the upper layers of the skin can compensate. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, z. B. by environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, aging skin etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Then maybe he is no longer able to fulfill its task on its own and must be carried out by external Measures are regenerated.

It is also known that the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin younger and older people deviate from the normal state, that in the healthy, normal hydrated skin of an age group is found. The Changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with Atopic eczema represents an extreme case for the deviations in the dry skin skin-healthy people can be found.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides in their quantity are greatly reduced and additionally composed differently. What is striking is in the deficit in ceramides 1 and 3, in particular for ceramide 1 it is known that it is in a special way the order of the lipids in the Intercellular membrane systems increases.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the type described above are based possibly due to misguided lipid biosynthesis and also increase in the end transepidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes the skin, which is healthy per se, more sensitive and can develop in individual cases Contribute to eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration of the horny layer generally does not consist in restoring or strengthening the physicochemical properties of the lamellae from intercellular lipids. An essential one Partial effect is based on the mere covering of the treated skin areas and the resulting resulting water build-up in the underlying horny layer. Coapplizierte Hygroscopic substances bind the water so that there is a measurable increase in water Water content in the horny layer comes. However, this purely physical barrier can be relative can be easily removed. After stopping the product, the skin turns very much quickly return to the state before the start of treatment. In addition, the Skin care effect with regular treatment wear off, so that eventually even the status quo is reached again during treatment. For certain products The condition of the skin may temporarily deteriorate after discontinuation. A sustainable product effect is usually not or only in one limited dimensions reached.

To support the deficient skin in its natural regeneration and its In recent times, topical preparations have increasingly been used to strengthen physiological function Intercellular lipid mixtures added by the skin to rebuild the natural Barrier should be used. However, these are lipids, but especially the ceramides, which are very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually very much less than hoped.

The aim of the present invention was therefore to find ways to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art to avoid technology. In particular, the effect of skin care products be physiological, fast and sustainable.

Skin care in the sense of the present invention is primarily to be understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, Chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, Lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are on known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and limited in time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the Horny layer is essentially based on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated Skin areas. The ointment or cream represents a (second) artificial barrier, so to speak, that the To prevent water loss from the skin. This physical can be correspondingly easy Barrier - for example with cleaning agents - can be removed again, which means the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the Reduce skin care effect with regular treatment. After stopping the Product application very quickly returns the skin to the state before the start of treatment. at certain products may even worsen the condition of the skin temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually not or only in reached a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the skin's barrier function is even a selective barrier damage, which should enable active ingredients in or can penetrate the body through the skin. A disturbed appearance of the Skin is partially accepted as a side effect.

The effect of nourishing cleaning products is essentially one efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. By the simultaneous Reducing the surfactant content of such preparations can damage the Further limit the horny layer barrier.

The prior art, however, lacks preparations which the Barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer positively influence the physico-chemical properties of the horny layer and especially the lamella Strengthen or even restore intercellular lipids.

The object of the present invention was therefore to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remove. In particular, skin care preparations and preparations for Skin cleansing is made available, which is the barrier properties of the skin maintain or restore, especially when the skin's natural regeneration not enough. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to the Drying out of the skin, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic Processes or neurodermatitis. Object of the present invention it was also to provide stable skin care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents To provide that protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable.

In addition, the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so-called "Stinging potential".

The problem of "sensitive skin" affects an increasing number of adults and children. Sensitive skin is a combination of different symptoms, such as hyper-reactive and intolerant skin. But atopic skin can also be subsumed under it become. These skin conditions are often, but not entirely correctly, considered by those affected "allergic" skin. Although an allergic disease causes symptoms of sensitive skin, the appearance of "sensitive skin" is not limited to allergy sufferers. For people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin, using "stinging" (<engl.> "to sting" = injure, burn, pain) designated neurosensory Phenomenon can be observed. This "sensitive skin" differs fundamentally from "dry skin" with thickened and hardened horny layers.

Typical reactions of "stinging" to sensitive skin are redness, tension and burning the skin as well as itching.

The itching in atopic skin is to be regarded as a neurosensory phenomenon, as well Itching with skin diseases.

"Stinging" phenomena can be viewed as cosmetic disorders become. In contrast, severe itching, especially severe itching of the skin, can also be called a more serious dermatological disorder.

Typical associated with the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" disturbing neurosensory phenomena are reddening of the skin, tingling, tingling, tension and Burning skin and itching. You can by stimulating environmental conditions z. B. Massage, surfactant, weather influences such as sun, cold, dryness, but also moist heat, heat radiation and UV radiation, e.g. B. the sun become.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists" 28, pp. 197-209 (May 1977) P. J. Frosch and A. M. Kligman a method for estimating the "stinging potential" topically administered substances. As positive substances z. B. lactic acid and Pyruvic acid used. When measuring using this method, however, Amino acids, especially glycine, are found to be neurosensory active (such substances are called "Stinger").

According to previous knowledge, such a sensitivity towards entirely occurs certain substances individually different. This means a person who is at Experienced contact with a substance "stinging effects", it is very likely experience repeatedly with every further contact. Contact with other "Stingem" can but just as well go without any reaction.

Many more or less sensitive people have even when using some Deodorant or antiperspirant preparations under erythematous Suffering from skin symptoms.

Erythematous skin symptoms also appear as side effects in certain Skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical one Rash with the appearance of acne regularly more or less reddened.

It was therefore the object of the present invention, the disadvantages of the prior art Remedy technology.

In particular, active substances and preparations containing such active substances should cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive symptoms, in particular Dermatoses, but also the appearance of the "stinging" are made available.

Furthermore, such active substances or preparations containing such active substances should be used Are made available, which are also used for immune stimulation of the skin for immune stimulation in the sense of the effect promoting wound healing can be.

In a further preferred embodiment, the present invention relates cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as B. the unwanted pigmentation, for example local hyper- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. liver spots, Freckles), but also for purely cosmetic lightening of larger, individual skin types adequately pigmented skin areas.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin lowest layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on Skin type either sporadically or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming Cells are found. Melanocytes contain as characteristic cell organelles Melanosomes, which form melanin when stimulated by UV radiation. This is in the Keratinocytes transports and gets a more or less pronounced brownish or brown skin color.

Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process, in which tyrosine is present Contribution of the enzyme tyrosinase via 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (dopa), dopa-quinone, Leucodopachrome, dopachrome, 5,6-dihydroxyindole and indole-5,6-quinone finally in Melanin is converted.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes Side effects of many biological processes, e.g. B. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, Ephelides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or - scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

Active ingredients and preparations are known which are used for skin pigmentation counteract. In practice, preparations based on Hydroquinone, some of which only take effect after several weeks of use show their excessive use on the other hand for toxicological reasons is questionable. The inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, Ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives are common, but have cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

The object of the present invention was also to remedy these shortcomings.

The aim of skin care is also to reduce the fat and fat caused by daily washing Compensate for skin water loss. This is especially important when the natural Regeneration capacity is not sufficient. In addition, skin care products are said to exist Protect environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach Waschen).

The chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

• a) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• b) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• c) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken) und
• d) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective and e.g. B. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it occurs in particular due to exogenous factors such. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

• a) Visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis);
• b) flaccidity and wrinkling;
• c) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and
• d) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention particularly relates to products for the care of the natural Wise aged skin, as well as to treat the consequential damage of light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. B. Retinoids (Vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Your The effect on structural damage is limited, however. Furthermore there are considerable difficulties in product development, the active ingredients in sufficient to stabilize against oxidative decay. The use of vitamin A acid Products containing more often cause severe erythematous skin irritation. retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with a effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for protection cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the components of cosmetic Preparations before harmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are found in skin care cosmetic or dermatological preparations are used. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the Present invention cosmetic and dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and Treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as B. the Skin aging, especially skin aging caused by oxidative processes.

The present invention further relates to active substances and preparations, such Containing active ingredients for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, especially dermatoses.

In a further advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates Active ingredient combinations and preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of serve light-sensitive skin, especially photodermatoses.

The harmful effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC area), are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB Area, an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe Burns.

As a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight, the narrower range is around 308 nm specified.

Numerous compounds are known for protecting against UVB radiation, in which it are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, Salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA Area, it is important to have filter substances available because of its rays May cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which the skin ages prematurely and that it is the cause of numerous phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions can be seen. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

To protect against UVA rays, certain derivatives of the Dibenzoylmethans used, their photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)), is not sufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the intervene photochemical reaction products in the skin metabolism.

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Even undefined radical photo products, which are created in the skin itself, can uncontrolled subsequent reactions of high reactivity. But also Singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can with UV Radiation occur, as do short-lived epoxies and many others. singlet for example, stands out compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state) from increased reactivity. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that Ionic species are also formed when exposed to UV, which in turn oxidatively enters the able to intervene in biochemical processes.

To prevent these reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological Formulations additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated.

It has already been suggested vitamin E, a substance known to be antioxidant Use effect in light protection formulations, but here, too, the achieved remains Effect far behind the hoped for.

The object of the invention was therefore also cosmetic, dermatological and to create active pharmaceutical ingredients and preparations and light protection formulations for Prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, especially photodermatoses, preferably serve PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light eruption are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other terms as used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al. Zentralblatt skin and venereal diseases (1989), 156, p. 2).

Mainly, antioxidants are used as protective substances against the spoilage of them containing preparations used. Nevertheless, it is known that also in the undesirable oxidation processes can occur in human and animal skin. Such Processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology ", pp. 323ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), oxidative damage of the skin and their closer causes.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions can be cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally incorporated antioxidants and / or radical scavengers become.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. So is already in the U.S. Patents 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and numerous other documents Vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect in Use sunscreen formulations, but the effect achieved here still lags far behind that hoped back.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways to overcome the disadvantages of Avoid state of the art. In particular, the effect of remedying the with the endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin related damage and the Prophylaxis to be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

Iron plays an ambiguous role as essential in biology and medicine Biofactor on the one hand and potential toxin on the other. The essential role of iron leads derived from its need for the synthesis of various hemoproteins, iron Proteins containing sulfur clusters or other forms of iron-dependent proteins (e.g. Ribonucleotide reductase). The iron is critical of biological functions like oxygen transport / electron transport, DNA synthesis or on Central detoxification processes. On the other hand, excess, especially unbound, can "Free" iron due to its chemical reactivity mainly in the context of the Fenton and Haber-Weiss reactions convey the formation of reactive radicals, which in turn exert a highly damaging influence on cellular processes and membranes can (Smith et al., 1992; Hershko, 1994; Morris et al. / 1995).

Since the content of free iron must not be too high due to its redox reactivity, must Iron ingested into the cell is either "used up" or detoxified and get saved.

Apoferritin is a globulin-like, iron-free protein body formed in all cells which arises during intracellular iron absorption ferritin (iron-laden apoferritin). X-ray structure analyzes of apoferritin have shown that the assembled holoferritin forms an approximately spherical structure, which through channels to its largely hollow inner core is interspersed. These channels serve the iron inflow, one Ferroxidase activity contributes to the storage of the oxidized, trivalent iron. Internally iron stored in this ferritin structure, up to 4500 ions per apoprotein, is considered largely "redox-isolated", which explains the detoxifying function of ferritin.

According to the invention, the shortcomings of the prior art are eliminated by Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing apoferritin.

• - besser die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen,
• - besser der Hautaustrocknung entgegenwirken,
• - besser gegen Pigmentstörungen wirken,
• - besser gegen entzündliche Hautzustände wirken
• - besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken und
• - die Haut besser vor Umwelteinflüssen schützen als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.

Preparations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

• - better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,
• - counteract dehydration better,
• - work better against pigment disorders,
• - work better against inflammatory skin conditions
• - work better against skin aging and
• - protect the skin better from environmental influences than the preparations of the prior art.

• - von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden
• - von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z. B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• - von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.
• - von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• - von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• - von empfindlicher, gereizter und juckender Haut,
• - von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• - von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum
• - von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo

möglich. Der erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffes bzw. kosmetischer oder topischer dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäßem Wirkstoff dient aber auch in überraschender Weise

• - zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• - zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese
• - zur Stimulation der Ceramidsynthese der Haut
• - zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen.
• - zur Steigerung der Zellerneuerung und Regeneration der Haut
• - zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine)
• - zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

The use of apoferritin or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective apoferritin content surprisingly offers an effective treatment, but also prophylaxis

• - from deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - Of environmental (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and especially light-related negative changes in the skin and the appendages.
• - from light-related skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - sensitive, irritated and itchy skin,
• - from dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also serves in a surprising manner

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin
• - to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis
• - to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin
• - to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions.
• - to increase cell renewal and skin regeneration
• - to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins)
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

Accordingly, the use of apoferritin for prophylaxis and Treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection for sensitive, determined dry skin.

Accordingly, the use of cosmetic products is also in accordance with the invention or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders.

Accordingly, the use of cosmetic products is also in accordance with the invention or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for treatment and Prevention of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

Accordingly, the use of apoferritin for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations to increase the Ceramidbiosynthese.

Accordingly, the use of apoferritin for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations to strengthen the barrier function of the Skin.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the Invention 0.001-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-1 wt .-%, based on apoferritin on the overall composition of the preparations.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use apoferritin or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective apoferritin content cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis undesirable To use skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations which contain apoferritin can be customary Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin , Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, peptides, hexathinsine sulfones, pentane) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. B. Vitamin E acetate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resinic acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and derivatives thereof, e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Prophylaxis or cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the Active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of used according to the invention Active ingredient takes place in the usual way, in such a way that the invention Active ingredient used or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention on the affected skin areas is applied.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional ones cosmetic and dermatological preparations in various forms can be present. So you can z. B. a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type Water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form of a Crème, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. B. fats, oils, Waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention that Active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. The Cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore be cosmetic auxiliaries contain, as they are usually used in such preparations, for. B. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, Insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with coloring effect, thickener, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical Preparations.

Contain medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention usually one or more drugs in effective concentration. The simplicity for the sake of a clean distinction between cosmetic and medical Application and corresponding products to the legal requirements of Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and Drugs Act).

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, taking the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is cosmetic To provide preparations that cover the hair or skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a sunscreen Serve hair.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4- isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester,
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters advantageous according to the invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
• - Benzophenone derivatives, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (die entprehenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure bezeichnet.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and its salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo 3-bornylidene methyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g. the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) Designated 10-sulfonic acid.

The list of UVB filters mentioned in combination with the invention Active ingredient combinations can, of course, not be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters, which are usually used in cosmetics Preparations are included. These substances are preferably Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, especially around 1- (4'-tert-Butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. They can amounts used for the UVB combination.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), Zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, although not mandatory if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i. that is are treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.

One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification
n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si - R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)
is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline Solids, for example inorganic micropigments in the inventive Preparations are to be incorporated, including anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric Contain surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that contain organic, non-polar substances Can dissolve water.

• - anionische Tenside,
• - kationische Tenside,
• - amphotere Tenside und
• - nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2); X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^- ;
RNH ₂ + CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7);
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12); B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. B. Na ⁺ .

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoylhydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium Cocoylhydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. AcylLactylate, lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. Alaninate

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4 Phosphate,

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z. B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12-14 Olefinsulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie
Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12-13 Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA- Laurylsulfat.

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. acyl isethionates, e.g. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that has 4 alkyl or aryl groups is covalently linked. Regardless of the pH, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected are from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or Cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Advantageous especially cetyltrimethylammonium salts are to be used.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• 2. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 3. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 4. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
• 5. Sucroseester, -Ether
• 6. Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 7. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren

1. alcohols,

• 1. alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 2. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 3. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 4. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
• 5. sucrose esters, ether
• 6. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 7. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can have a concentration of between 1 and 95% by weight the preparations according to the invention are present, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkylbenzoate;
• - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such. B. castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the Group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the Fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, z. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, Palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2-200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (eg decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also beneficial in the sense use of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and are also advantageous those made from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

However, it is also advantageous to use silicone oils of a constitution similar to that above to select designated compounds whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example are polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example Polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone Copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, also alcohols low C number, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and in particular a or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain in particular advantageously one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be chosen are from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more Hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be from the aforementioned group to get voted.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and resins form or extracts from aquatic plants. This group can be beneficial in the sense of the present invention, for example gum arabic, Carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, Algine, chondrus, xanthan gum.

Another advantage is the use of derivatized gums such. B. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, chitin and Chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. B. methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates include naturally occurring and synthetic ones Clays such as B. montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as. B. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

Among the polyacrylates are e.g. B. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. B. polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions contain one or several emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group the nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

• a) Partialfettsäureester und Fettsäureester mehrwertiger Alkohole und deren ethoxylierte Derivate (z. B. Glycerylmonostearate, Sorbitanstearate, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate)
• b) ethoxylierte Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren
• c) ethoxilierte Fettamine, Fettsäureamide, Fettsäurealkanolamide
• d) Alkylphenolpolyglycolether (z. B. Triton X).

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X).

• a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat)
• b) Fettalkoholsulfate
• c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate.

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates.

• a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride.

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride.

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine
• c) Imidazolinderivate.

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) Imidazoline derivatives.

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, including beeswax, wool wax, Lecithin and sterols belong to it.

• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate,
• - der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• - der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester,
• - der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester,
• - der Cholesterinethoxylate,
• - der ethoxylierten Triglyceride,
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel
  R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH und n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• - der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• - der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H,
• - der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel
  R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate
  R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester,
• - der propoxylierten Sorbitanester,
• - der Cholesterinpropoxylate,
• - der propoxylierten Triglyceride,
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel
  R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH,
• - der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H,
• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel
  R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel
  R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g. B .:

• - the fatty alcohol ethoxylates,
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• - The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• - The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester,
• - the ethoxylated sorbitan esters,
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates,
• - the ethoxylated triglycerides,
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• - The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• - The etherified fatty acid propoxylates
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - The esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula
  R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester,
• - the propoxylated sorbitan esters,
• - the cholesterol propoxylates,
• - the propoxylated triglycerides,
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula
  RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
• the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H, on which these sulfates are based,
• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula
  ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• - The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula
  ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula
  R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula
  R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageous with with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated residues R and R ' exhibit. Do the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or are Isoalkyl derivatives before, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or above.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth- 17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), Polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate, polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol ( 14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22 isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate.

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt, sodium laureth- 11-carboxylate can be used.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides Glycerides can be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, Polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also cheap to use the sorbitan esters from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 Carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and saturated sorbitan esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, Glyceryl.

The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise. 1. PIT emulsions

2. Examples of O / W cream

3. Examples of O / W cream

4. Examples of W / O emulsions

5. Examples of W / O emulsions

6. Examples of hydrodispersions

7th example (gel cream)

Example 8 (W / O cream)

9. Example W / O / W cream

10. Example W / O pen

11. Example W / O pen

Claims (8)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing apoferritin. 2. Use of apoferritin according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory Skin conditions and / or for skin protection in sensitive and dry Skin. 3. Use of apoferritin according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin. 4. Use of apoferritin according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of Pigmentation. 5. Use of apoferritin according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological Preparations for increasing ceramide biosynthesis. 6. Use of apoferritin according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological Preparations to strengthen the skin's barrier function. 7. Use of apoferritin according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of functional Disorders of the skin appendages. 8. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claims 2-7, characterized characterized in that they are 0.001-50% by weight in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably 0.1-10% by weight of apoferritin, based on the Total weight of the preparations are included.