WO2004014329A1 - Preparation cosmetique et/ou dermatologique - Google Patents

Preparation cosmetique et/ou dermatologique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004014329A1
WO2004014329A1 PCT/EP2003/006677 EP0306677W WO2004014329A1 WO 2004014329 A1 WO2004014329 A1 WO 2004014329A1 EP 0306677 W EP0306677 W EP 0306677W WO 2004014329 A1 WO2004014329 A1 WO 2004014329A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic
weight
oil
name
dermatological preparation
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PCT/EP2003/006677
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Khiet Hien Diec
Ulrich Kux
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to EP03740331A priority Critical patent/EP1526830A1/fr
Publication of WO2004014329A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004014329A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological deodorant preparations in the form of emulsions which contain certain silicone emulsifiers.
  • perfumes or similar preparations can mask the body's own smell.
  • Another possibility is to prevent the formation of certain forms of the body's own smell.
  • Deodorant and antiperspirant preparations are used. Deodorants prevent skin-settling bacteria from breaking down sweat by reducing their activity or their
  • Antiperspirants prevent or reduce the sweating itself and remove the odor causing it
  • the bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced by using antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants. Ideally, only the odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced.
  • the sweat flow itself is not affected by this, ideally only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.
  • Emulsifiers based on silicones per se are already known.
  • European patent application 1 125 574 describes, for example, O / W emulsions which contain certain linear polyether siloxanes as emulsifiers.
  • R is CH 3 (CH 2 ) 6 CO- and / or CH 3 (CH 2 ) 8 CO-
  • R 2 which are substituted with two or three radicals R 2 where two residues R 2 by an always carbon-silicon bond connected to the two terminal silicon atoms and optionally third group R 2 with a Siloxankettenende the adjacent silicon atom.
  • R 2 consists of a short alkyl chain to which k ethyleneoxy units and then I propylene-2-oxy units are attached, at the end of which a free hydroxyl group follows:
  • the task was to find a preparation containing deodorants that leaves a pleasant feeling when applied to the skin and remains permanently stable.
  • R 2 represents the grouping - (CH 2 ) l - (O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) k - (OC 3 H 6 ) j-OH,
  • n has values of 60-100 and (d4) the polydimethylsiloxanes (c) and (d) are in the ratio 80: 120 to 120: 80 .
  • the proportion of emulsifiers is less than 10% by weight, particularly preferably less than 5% by weight, to remedy the shortcomings of the prior art.
  • Co-emulsifiers selected from the group of sorbitan fatty acid esters which have polyglycerol esters. Mono-, di- or triesters of are particularly preferred as polyglycerol esters
  • Citric acid used with with glyceryl esters It is further preferred if the average i is 3, k and I 16, n are 80 and the polydimethylsiloxanes (c) and (d) are in the ratio 1: 1.
  • oil phase contains oil components from the following Groups can be selected:
  • Preparations according to the invention preferably contain a stabilizer selected from the group of sorbitol polyoxyethylene derivatives and / or betaines.
  • the preparations according to the invention described are preferably used as agents for reducing the smell of sweat in humans.
  • the preparations according to the invention are particularly easy to apply, leave a pleasant skin feeling on the skin by first creating a fresh, cooling impression due to the water content, absorbing quickly, not feeling greasy and in particular not sticking.
  • Silicone oils are usually used to a large extent to set such a skin feeling. This is not necessary here.
  • a sensor system can also be achieved with non-silicone oils, as can typically only be achieved with silicone oils. This is of great importance especially for water-containing formulations such as emulsions, in which the deodorants and antiperspirants present in solution produce a sticky skin feeling which is undesirable for the consumer without appropriate technical measures.
  • the preparations mentioned also leave an undesirable visible white residue on the skin, which, because of its volatility, cannot be effectively and long-term concealed with silion oils.
  • a suitable O / W emulsifier system can be formulated as water-in-silicone oil emulsions which had the disadvantage of poor release of the antiperspirant salt from the inner emulsion phase (water) and a slippery feeling on the skin.
  • the viscosity can preferably be set as desired in the range from 50 to 5000 mPa s, depending on the application requirement.
  • odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in DE 40 09 347, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite , furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.
  • Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the emulsions according to the invention.
  • Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, famesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those in DE 37 40 186, DE 39 38 140, DE 42 04 321, DE 42 29 707, DE 42 29 737, DE 42 37 081, DE 43 09 372, DE 43 24 219 described active agents.
  • Sodium hydrogen carbonate can also be used advantageously.
  • the amount of deodorants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • oil components that are designated as preferred are not used alone, these can additionally or alternatively be selected from the groups of polar oils, medium-polar oils, low-polar oils, ester oils, waxes and / or silicone oils. or
  • the lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the groups of polar oils, medium-polar oils, low-polar oils, ester oils, waxes and / or silicone oils.
  • oils and fats are sometimes used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, as is well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • oil phase and “lipid phase” are also used synonymously.
  • oils and fats differ in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been proposed to adopt the interfacial tension with water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. It applies that the polarity of the oil phase in question is greater, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is regarded as a possible measure for the polarity of a given oil component.
  • the interfacial tension is the force that acts on an imaginary line of one meter in length that lies in the interface between two phases.
  • the physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship force / length and is usually given in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tries to reduce the size of the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign.
  • Lipids whose interfacial tension against water is less than 20 mN / m are regarded as polar in the sense of the present invention than nonpolar ones whose interfacial tension against water is more than 30 mN / m.
  • Lipids with an interfacial tension against water between 20 and 30 mN / m are generally referred to as medium polar.
  • Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • Particularly advantageous polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are all native lipids, such as, for. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like as well as the following with their INCI name
  • Butyl octanol available for example under the name Isofol 12 from the
  • PEG 2 diethylene hexanoates for example available under the name Dermol 488 from the company ALZO (ROVI),
  • C12-13 alkyl lactates for example available under the name Cosmacol ELI from the company Condea Augusta, --- Diethylen Glycol Dioctanoate / Diisononanoate, for example available under the
  • Emerest 2384 from the company Cognis
  • Cocoglycerides available for example under the name Myritol 331 from the company Cognis,
  • Triisosteen for example available under the name Prisorine 2041 GTIS from Unichema, as well as the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, it being particularly advantageous if the oil phase contains a content of C 12 . 15 -Alkylbenzoate or consists entirely of this, the group of Guerbet alcohols, which are liquid even at low temperatures and cause practically no skin irritation and which can advantageously be used as greasy, over-greasy, and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products and mostly through the structure
  • R are characterized, wherein R, and R 2 generally denote unbranched alkyl radicals and the Guerbet alcohols advantageously selected from the group in which
  • R propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
  • R 2 hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl, preferably 2-butyl octanol, for example, under the trade name Isofol ® 12 available from Condea Chemie GmbH, 2-hexyl decanol, for example under the Commercial name Isofol® 16 available from Condea Chemie GmbH, whereby mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention can also be used advantageously according to the invention, such as mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol as described under the commercial name Isofol® 14 by Condea Chemie GmbH are available; the total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is "advantageous from the trade name Isofol ® 12 available from Condea Chemie GmbH, 2-hexyl decanol, for
  • Range up to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • Isodecyl neopentanoate for example available under the name DUB VCI
  • Isohexyl decanoates for example available under the name Dermol IHD from the company ALZO (ROVI)
  • isodecyl octanoates for example available under the name Dermol 108 from the company ALZO (ROVI)
  • Isopropyl palmitate for example available under the name isopropyl palmitate from Unichema, Cyclomethicone, available for example under the name DC Fluid 345 from Dow Corning,
  • Octyldodecanol available, for example, under the name Eutanol G from Henkel Cognis,
  • Octyldodeceyl myristates available for example under the name M.O.D. by the Gattefosse company,
  • Phenyl Trimethicone available for example under the name silicone oil VP
  • Butyl octanoicacid for example available under the name Isocarb 12 from CONDEA Chemie
  • isopropyl stearate for example available under the name isopropyl stearate from Henkel Cognis
  • C12-15 alkyl benzoates for example available under the name Finsolv TN from the company Goldschmidt,
  • Butylene glycol caprylate / caprate for example available under the name Dermofeel BGC from the company Dr. Straetmans,
  • Caprylic / Capric triglycerides for example available under the name Miglyol
  • Tricaprylin available for example under the name Trivent OCG from the
  • Trivent - PEG "Diethylhexanoate / Diisononanoate / Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, available for example under the name Dermol 866 from the company ALZO (ROVI).
  • Low polar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • Particularly advantageous low polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are the substances listed below with their INCI or trade name:
  • Isohexadecane for example available under the name Solvent ICH from the company EC Erdölchemie,
  • Isoeikosan for example available * under the name Isoeikosan from the
  • Ethoxydiglycol oleate for example available under the name Softcutol O from the company Gattefosse,
  • Decyl olivate available, for example, under the name Lipodermanol OL from Creaderm,
  • Isocetyl palmitate for example available under the name Tegosoft HP from the
  • Octyl isostearate available, for example, under the name Prisorine 2036 from Unichema,
  • Dicaprylyl carbonates for example available under the name Cetiol CC from the
  • Dicaprylyl ether available for example under the name Cetiol OE from the
  • Dihexyl carbonate, - polydecenes for example available under the name Silkflo 366 NF from the
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • Ester oils include esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or uhbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl
  • Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
  • Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), furs, Ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided that the conditions specified in the main claim are met.
  • fat and / or wax components are chemically, such as those available modified waxes and synthetic waxes under the tradenames Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), and Syncrowax AW 1C (C18. 3, 6 -fatty acid) in CRODA GmbH and Montanesterwachse , sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (z. B. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C30. 5 o alkyl bees wax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats such. B.
  • hydrogenated vegetable oils for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides
  • triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C 20 . o-alkyl stearate, C 20 . o-alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate.
  • organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane.
  • the fat and / or wax components can be present either individually or in a mixture. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention partially or completely from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are usually characterized by structural elements, as follows:
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated.
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ⁇ - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.
  • linear silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are distinguished by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Dimethicones of different chain lengths and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for. B. are available under the trade names ABIL 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • amino-modified silicones INCI: amodimethicone
  • silicone waxes e.g. B.
  • Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.
  • Cyclomethicones in particular Cyclomethicone D5 and / or Cyclomethicone D6, are particularly advantageous cyclic silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Advantageous silicone oils or silicone waxes in the sense of the present invention are cyclic and / or linear silicone oils and silicone waxes.
  • the ratio of lipids to silicone oils approximately as 1: 1 (generally x: y).
  • Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil.
  • Other silicone oils for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • these include, for example, poly-siloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol and the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate. It is preferred according to the invention to add such active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents to the active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention.
  • Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics.
  • the complexation of interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, prevent undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Complexing agents in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which are metallacycles when one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, are present.
  • Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, normally elongated connections are closed to form rings by complex formation via a metal atom or ion. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal.
  • a prerequisite for chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal contains two or more atom groups which act as electron donors.
  • the complexing agent or complexing agents can advantageously be selected from the group of conventional compounds, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarbonic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their Anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethylenaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions).
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid
  • DPTA diethylenaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA 2-diamino
  • the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.05 - 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preferred emulsifiers are not used alone, these can additionally or alternatively be selected from the group of nonionic or amphoteric emulsifiers which act as stabilizers. Are among the emulsifiers
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters b) Polyglycerol esters of the mono-, di- or triesters of alkane carboxylic acids with at least 15 carbon atoms with the condensation product of glucose esters and polyglycerol of the mono-, di- or triesters of polyhydroxy fatty acids with at least 15 carbon atoms with polyglycerol or the mono-, di- or triesters of citric acid with glyceryl esters
  • amphoteric emulsifiers that act as stabilizers are
  • emulsifiers which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.
  • Advantageous emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, diglyc rinethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or
  • Particularly advantageous emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyhstat, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate,
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • antioxidants selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg Glyci ⁇ , Histidi, tyrosine, Trypt ⁇ pha ⁇ ) ⁇ ⁇ Uend derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example Urocaninkla- re) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g.
  • Aurothioglucose propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl -, Oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoxim Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfate one, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • Citric acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives eg ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives eg vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • Oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants
  • concentration values are slightly exceeded or fallen short of and that preparations according to the invention are nevertheless obtained.
  • the numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique sous forme d'émulsions, de préférence des émulsions huile dans eau. L'invention est caractérisée en ce que ladite émulsion contient des produits désodorisants, des polydiméthylsiloxanes linéaires et d'autres polydiméthylsiloxanes, les émulsifiants représentant moins de 10 % en poids, de préférence moins de 8 % en poids et mieux encore moins de 5 % en poids.
PCT/EP2003/006677 2002-07-31 2003-06-25 Preparation cosmetique et/ou dermatologique WO2004014329A1 (fr)

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EP03740331A EP1526830A1 (fr) 2002-07-31 2003-06-25 Preparation cosmetique et/ou dermatologique

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DE10234882.0 2002-07-31
DE2002134882 DE10234882B4 (de) 2002-07-31 2002-07-31 Kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitung und deren Verwendung

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102004002997A1 (de) * 2004-01-19 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Dünnflüssige W/O Emulsionen ohne O/W-Emulgatoren
DE102008052520A1 (de) * 2008-10-21 2010-04-22 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0879840A2 (fr) * 1997-05-22 1998-11-25 Th. Goldschmidt AG Organopolysiloxanes contenant des groupes polyhydroxyorganyle, en particulier de sucre ou de dérivés de sucre et des groupes polyoxyalkylènes
EP1125574A2 (fr) * 2000-02-19 2001-08-22 Goldschmidt AG Emulsions cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques du type huile-dans-l'eau contenant des polyéther polysiloxanes
US20010051138A1 (en) * 2000-05-12 2001-12-13 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Preparation of antiperspirant gels which obviates the use of simple glycols

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JP3333782B2 (ja) * 1992-05-01 2002-10-15 東レ・ダウコーニング・シリコーン株式会社 ゲル状シリコーン組成物
DE19624550A1 (de) * 1996-06-20 1998-01-08 Goldschmidt Ag Th alpha,omega-Polyetherpolysiloxane als W/O-Emulgatoren
DE19824418A1 (de) * 1998-05-30 1999-12-02 Goldschmidt Ag Th Transparente Sonnenschutzgele

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0879840A2 (fr) * 1997-05-22 1998-11-25 Th. Goldschmidt AG Organopolysiloxanes contenant des groupes polyhydroxyorganyle, en particulier de sucre ou de dérivés de sucre et des groupes polyoxyalkylènes
EP1125574A2 (fr) * 2000-02-19 2001-08-22 Goldschmidt AG Emulsions cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques du type huile-dans-l'eau contenant des polyéther polysiloxanes
US20010051138A1 (en) * 2000-05-12 2001-12-13 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Preparation of antiperspirant gels which obviates the use of simple glycols

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Title
ANONYMOUS: "ABIL TM Care 85", INTERNET ARTICLE, pages 1 - 8, XP002257168, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.degussa-personal-care.com/public/products/pdf/DS_ABIL_Care_85_e.pdf> [retrieved on 20031008] *
ANONYMOUS: "O/W Antiperspirant Roll on", INTERNET ARTICLE, pages 1, XP002257167, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.degussa-personal-care.com/html/formulations/dynpdf.asp?typ=rezept&id=7891> [retrieved on 20031008] *
DIETZ T: "A NOVEL SILICONE-BASED O/W EMULSIFIER WITH SKIN SMOOTHING SENSATION", COSMETICS & TOILETRIES, WHEATON, IL, US, vol. 117, no. 5, May 2002 (2002-05-01), pages 71 - 74,76,78,80-81, XP009014858, ISSN: 0361-4387 *

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DE10234882B4 (de) 2004-09-09
EP1526830A1 (fr) 2005-05-04

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