WO2003086335A1 - Composition de soin capillaire destinee a restaurer l'elasticite des cheveux - Google Patents

Composition de soin capillaire destinee a restaurer l'elasticite des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003086335A1
WO2003086335A1 PCT/NL2003/000265 NL0300265W WO03086335A1 WO 2003086335 A1 WO2003086335 A1 WO 2003086335A1 NL 0300265 W NL0300265 W NL 0300265W WO 03086335 A1 WO03086335 A1 WO 03086335A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair care
care composition
composition according
lactic acid
acid
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/NL2003/000265
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English (en)
Other versions
WO2003086335A8 (fr
Inventor
Rupertus Mattias Rafaël GIJSEN
Original Assignee
Purac Biochem B.V.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Purac Biochem B.V. filed Critical Purac Biochem B.V.
Publication of WO2003086335A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003086335A1/fr
Publication of WO2003086335A8 publication Critical patent/WO2003086335A8/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the use of a hair care composition for restoring the elasticity of hair, hair care compositions, and leave-on compositions.
  • EP-A- 0 684 040 discloses skin treatment compositions comprising ⁇ -hydroxy acids, which contain at least 60 % of L- compounds, with N-acetyl-L-cysteine.
  • EP-A-0 858 794 describes the use of compositions comprising lactic acid or salt thereof on hair care products to impart gloss and voluminousness to the hair.
  • This patent application describes rinse-off compositions with lactic acid rich in the L-compound having lactic acid amounts of at least 0.02 % by weight , preferably from 0.05 to 20 % by weight. In the examples 0.5%, 1% and 3% by weight lactic acid is used, respectively.
  • the leave-on compositions with lactic acid rich in the L-compound described comprise lactic acid in amounts of least 0.005% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 20 wt%.
  • the leave-on compositions in the examples comprise 0.5 and 1 % by weight of lactic acid.
  • the salts of the lactic acid which can be used in the present invention are not particularly restricted. Suitable salts of lactic acid which can be used are alkali metal lactates, alkaline earth metal lactates, thiolactates and ammonium lactates and/or amino acid salts of lactic acid. Salts which are especially suitable for use in the present invention are sodium lactate, calcium lactate, and potassium lactate.
  • the inorganic bases include hydroxides, oxides, carbonates and hydrogencarbonates of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium and magnesium. Also, ammonium hydroxide and trialkylammonium hydroxides are useful as the inorganic bases.
  • the organic bases include nitrogen-containing bases such as primary, secondary and tertiary amines; compounds having imino, guanidino, imidazolino, imidazolyl or pyridyl group; amino acids, peptides and proteins.
  • the amines as described above include those having alkyl and/or aryl groups.
  • mono-, di- or trialkylamines such as propylamine, dipropylamine and triethylamine; arylamines such as aniline, methylaniline and propylaniline; monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines, trialkanolamines and alkylalkanolamines.
  • the amino acids are typified by glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, cystine, tryptophan, ornithine, carnosine (alanylhistidine), 4-aminobutanoic acid and citrulline ( ⁇ -amino- ⁇ -ureidovaleric acid).
  • the most desirable ones are basic amino acids such as lysine, histidine and arginine.
  • the base lecithin, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine or sphingomyelin.
  • the preferable ratio of L-lactic acid to the total lactic acid is from 60 to 100 % by weight, more preferably from 85 to 100 % by weight.
  • the ratio of L-lactic acid to the total lactic acid can be determined by measuring the specific rotation of the L-lactic acid in the conventional manner.
  • the content of L-lactic acid of 60 % by weight corresponds to an optical purity of the L-compound of 20 % ee.
  • lactic acid is commercially available in the form of aqueous solutions containing 10 to 90 % by weight of lactic acid in the form of the D- and L-compounds or a racemic modification. These commercially available aqueous solutions may conveniently be used in the present invention. Also, it is known that L-lactic acid can be obtained by extracting fermentation products of specific plants. Aqueous solutions of the L-lactic acid obtained by the fermentation of plants sometimes contain other ⁇ -hydroxy acids. Mixture of the other ⁇ -hydroxy acids can be also used so long as the effect of the present invention is not worsened thereby.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids other than lactic acid examples include citric acid, malic acid, glycolic acid and tartaric acid. Said other ⁇ -hydroxy acids may be used in amounts ranging from 0.05 % by weight to about 20 % by weight based on the total of the composition.
  • moisturisers such as glycerine sodium PCA, sorbitol and, lactitol can be used in the present invention. These moisturisers may be present in amounts ranging from 0.05 to 20 % by weight based on the total of the composition. Also combinations of moisturisers may be used.
  • the elasticity of the hair was already improved using amounts of 1 % by weight of lactic acid or salt thereof, based on the total of the composition. However, the elasticity was completely retained in comparison to undamaged hair when using at least 2 % by weight of lactic acid or salt thereof.
  • the elasticity may be repaired by using the composition as a leave-on composition, i.e. those compositions which are used without washing away after application (e.g., hair blow, hair spray, hair foam, styling lotion, hair gel, leave-on conditioners and hair mist) or by using the composition as a rinse-of composition, i.e. those compositions which are to be washed away after application (e.g., shampoo, conditioner, and treatment).
  • the hair care products to be washed away after application it may be preferred to accelerate the penetration of the lactic acid into the hair and thus improving the elasticity restoring effects by cleansing the hair surface.
  • the effects of the lactic acid can be enhanced by using anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or nonionic surfactants together therewith for cleansing the hair surface.
  • anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or nonionic surfactants together therewith for cleansing the hair surface.
  • Either one of these surfactants or a mixture of two or more thereof may be used in the present invention.
  • the content of these surfactants based on the total weight of the hair care product preferably ranges from 3 to 60 % by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30 % by weight.
  • cationic surfactant(s) the adsorption of the lactic acid onto the hair can be promoted and thus the elasticity restoring effects can be improved.
  • cationic surfactants are as follows.
  • Mono-long chain alkyl quaternary ammonium salts having a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms which may be linked by oxygen atom(s) or acid amido group(s), or which may be substituted on a hydroxyl group.
  • Di-long chain alkyl quaternary ammonium salts having linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups having 8 to 24 carbon atoms which may be linked by oxygen atom(s) or acid amido group(s), or which may be substituted on a hydroxyl group.
  • Quaternary ammonium salts having asymmetric di-long chain alkyl or alkenyl groups having, in a single molecule, a branched alkyl group having 8 to 28 carbon atoms which may be linked by oxygen atom(s) or acid amido group(s), or which may be substituted on a hydroxyl group and a linear alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be linked by oxygen atom(s) or acid amido group(s), or which may be substituted on a hydroxyl group.
  • the content of these cationic surfactants based on the total weight of the hair care composition preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10 % by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5 % by weight.
  • the hair care composition for use in the present invention may further contain conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, ampholytic polymers, silicones and silicone derivatives. By using these components, a film is formed on the hair surface. Thus, the adsorption of the lactic acid onto the hair can be promoted and further improved elasticity restoring effects can be exerted.
  • silicones and silicone derivatives which can be used as the conditioning agents described above, it is particularly preferable to use dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, polyether-modified silicones, amino-modified silicones, etc. Either one of these components or a mixture of two or more thereof may be employed in the hair care products of the present invention.
  • the content of the conditioning agents which can be used in the present invention is preferably 0.01 % by weight or more, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care product.
  • the hair care compositions for use in the present invention may further contain various additives, so long as they exert no undesirable effect (e.g.. decomposition) to lactic acid or its salt.
  • the following components which have been ordinarily employed in hair care products may be added thereto, if needed, so long as the effects of the present invention are not worsened thereby: water-soluble polymers such as methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer and polysaccharides such as xanthan gum; viscosity controlling agents such as polyoxyalkylene sorbitan esters, polyoxyethylene glycol distearate and ethanol; humectants such as sorbitol and glycerol; chelating agents such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and phosphonates; preservatives such as methylparaben and butylparaben; nutritional components such as vitamins and precursors thereof, animal or vegetable extracts such as lecithin and gelatin and
  • the pH value of the hair care compositions for use in the present invention generally ranges from 2 to 9, preferably from 3.5 to 7.5, most preferably from 5 to 6.
  • the hair care compositions for use in the present invention may be in the form of those which are to be washed away after application (e.g., shampoo, rinse, rinse-in-shampoo, hair treatment, and hair conditioner) or those which are used without washing away after application (e.g., hair blow, hair spray, hair foam, styling lotion, hair gel, leave-on conditioner, and hair mist).
  • the present invention is further directed to novel hair care compositions and leave-on hair care compositions which are especially suitable for use in the present invention.
  • Said novel leave-on hair care compositions comprise at least 2 % by weight of lactic acid or salt thereof, based on the total of the leave on hair care product.
  • Novel hair care compositions comprise at least 4% by weight of lactic acid or a salt thereof, based on the total of the hair care composition.
  • the leave-on hair care product preferably comprises at least 4% by weight of lactic acid or a salt thereof is at based on the total of the leave-on hair care composition.
  • said (leave-on) hair care composition preferably comprises lactic acid or a salt thereof which contains L-lactic acid at a higher ratio to D-lactic acid, more preferably a ratio which ranges from 60 to 100 % by weight.
  • the (leave-on) hair care composition according to the invention may comprise at least one inorganic salt selected from the group consisting of alkali metal lactates, alkaline earth metal lactates, thiolactates and ammonium lactates and/or at least one amino acid salt, suitable examples thereof have been given above.
  • the (leave-on) hair care composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and ampholytic surfactants in an amount of from 3 to 60 % by weight based on the total weight of the hair care product.
  • cationic surfactants can suitably be used, preferably in amounts ranging of from 0.1 to 10 % by weight based on the total weight of the hair care product.
  • conditioning agents may be added and other ⁇ -hydroxy acid than the lactic acid may be present such as citric acid, malic acid, glycolic acid and tartaric acid.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably set to have a pH value of 2 to 9.
  • the hair strength is measured by means of tensile testing.
  • the instrument used is a Dia- Stron MTT170 ® tensile test machine.
  • the test method used follows the guidelines laid down in BS EN ISO 5079: 1996. In this study European hair was evaluated, and all tresses were bleached to damage them, prior to the trial.
  • the three tresses of hair were wetted and 1 g of the hair care compositions 1 , 2 and 3 respectively, was massaged through the hair for 60 seconds. The tresses were then rinsed for 60 seconds, with excess water being removed by squeezing the hair through dumb and forefinger. Finally, each tress was combed, and left to dry naturally. This procedure was repeated five times. The hair of the treated tresses was measured by taking 50 hairs, measuring the diameter of each hair and measuring the tensile strength of fully wetted (after soaking for 15 minutes in water) hair. The results of these measurements are compiled in TABLE 2
  • composition 2 (1 wt% Na lactate solution (60%), i.e. containing 0.6% Na lactate) no significant improvement of the elasticity has been obtained compared to the untreated tress.
  • Treatement with composition 1 (3wt% Na Lactate solution 60 %, i.e. containing 1.8 wt% Na lactate) results in a significant improvement of the elasticity compared to the untreated tress. No significant difference in elasticity can be found between the untreated tress and the tress treated with comparative composition 3 , containing no Na lactate.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à l'utilisation d'une composition de soin capillaire afin de restaurer l'élasticité des cheveux, à des compositions de soin capillaire et à des compositions sans rinçage. Il a été découvert que l'on peut restaurer de manière durable l'élasticité des cheveux en utilisant une composition comprenant de l'acide lactique ou un sel de ce dernier. En particulier, des compositions de soin capillaire et des compositions de soin capillaire sans rinçage contenant au moins 2 % en poids d'acide lactique ou d'un sel de ce dernier paraissent aptes à être utilisées selon la présente invention. Des sels d'acides lactiques préférés sont le lactate de sodium, le lactate de calcium et le lactate de potassium.
PCT/NL2003/000265 2002-04-08 2003-04-08 Composition de soin capillaire destinee a restaurer l'elasticite des cheveux WO2003086335A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US37015302P 2002-04-08 2002-04-08
EP02076416 2002-04-08
EP02076416.3 2002-04-08
US60/370,153 2002-04-08

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2003086335A1 true WO2003086335A1 (fr) 2003-10-23
WO2003086335A8 WO2003086335A8 (fr) 2003-12-24

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Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1656969A1 (fr) * 2004-11-09 2006-05-17 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition conditionnante et colorante pour les cheveux
EP1656967A1 (fr) * 2004-11-09 2006-05-17 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de shampoing à coleur renforcée
WO2016030347A1 (fr) * 2014-08-29 2016-03-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Composition nettoyante capillaire de conditionnement
WO2016091784A1 (fr) * 2014-12-09 2016-06-16 Evonik Degussa Gmbh Produits de traitement capillaire protecteurs de couleur très performants comprenant un dipeptide
WO2016139122A1 (fr) * 2015-03-04 2016-09-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de traitement capillaire contenant de la méthionyl-méthionine et des tensioactifs cationiques
EP3135112A1 (fr) * 2015-08-24 2017-03-01 LANXESS Deutschland GmbH Compositions comprenant du 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane (dbdcb) et au moins un acide organique et/ou ses dérivés
WO2018058205A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques capillaires contenant des composés à base de thiol et procédés de nettoyage et de traitement des cheveux
WO2018058207A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions de traitement capillaire comprenant des composés à base de thiol
WO2018058208A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques capillaires contenant des composés à base de thiol et procédés de lavage et de traitement des cheveux
CN110022844A (zh) * 2016-09-30 2019-07-16 欧莱雅 包含基于硫醇的化合物的美发组合物
CN113796466A (zh) * 2020-06-15 2021-12-17 中农极润生物科技(北京)有限公司 一种犬用美毛膏及其制备方法和应用

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4975274A (en) * 1989-06-12 1990-12-04 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Sodium glutamate as an additive in hair care products and hair care products containing same
DE4225985A1 (de) * 1992-08-06 1994-02-10 Kao Corp Gmbh Mittel zum Konditionieren von menschlichen Haaren
EP0662316A1 (fr) * 1994-01-11 1995-07-12 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques détergentes à usage capillaire
EP0858794A2 (fr) * 1997-02-12 1998-08-19 Kao Corporation Composition de soins des cheveux

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4975274A (en) * 1989-06-12 1990-12-04 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Sodium glutamate as an additive in hair care products and hair care products containing same
DE4225985A1 (de) * 1992-08-06 1994-02-10 Kao Corp Gmbh Mittel zum Konditionieren von menschlichen Haaren
EP0662316A1 (fr) * 1994-01-11 1995-07-12 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques détergentes à usage capillaire
EP0858794A2 (fr) * 1997-02-12 1998-08-19 Kao Corporation Composition de soins des cheveux

Cited By (22)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1656969A1 (fr) * 2004-11-09 2006-05-17 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition conditionnante et colorante pour les cheveux
EP1656967A1 (fr) * 2004-11-09 2006-05-17 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de shampoing à coleur renforcée
US7422608B2 (en) 2004-11-09 2008-09-09 Kpss-Kao Professional Salon Services Gmbh Color enhancing shampoo composition
WO2016030347A1 (fr) * 2014-08-29 2016-03-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Composition nettoyante capillaire de conditionnement
WO2016091784A1 (fr) * 2014-12-09 2016-06-16 Evonik Degussa Gmbh Produits de traitement capillaire protecteurs de couleur très performants comprenant un dipeptide
WO2016139122A1 (fr) * 2015-03-04 2016-09-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de traitement capillaire contenant de la méthionyl-méthionine et des tensioactifs cationiques
EP3135112A1 (fr) * 2015-08-24 2017-03-01 LANXESS Deutschland GmbH Compositions comprenant du 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane (dbdcb) et au moins un acide organique et/ou ses dérivés
WO2017032756A1 (fr) * 2015-08-24 2017-03-02 Lanxess Deutschland Gmbh Composition contenant du 1,2-dibrom-2,4-dicyanobutane (dbdcb) et au moins un acide organique et/ou ses dérivés
WO2018058208A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques capillaires contenant des composés à base de thiol et procédés de lavage et de traitement des cheveux
CN110022844A (zh) * 2016-09-30 2019-07-16 欧莱雅 包含基于硫醇的化合物的美发组合物
WO2018058205A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques capillaires contenant des composés à base de thiol et procédés de nettoyage et de traitement des cheveux
KR20190057359A (ko) * 2016-09-30 2019-05-28 로레알 티올-베이스 화합물을 함유하는 모발용 화장료 조성물 및 모발의 클렌징 및 처리 방법
KR20190061038A (ko) * 2016-09-30 2019-06-04 로레알 티올-베이스 화합물을 함유하는 모발용 화장료 조성물 및 모발의 클렌징 및 처리 방법
CN109996531A (zh) * 2016-09-30 2019-07-09 欧莱雅 含有基于硫醇的化合物的美发组合物和用于清洁和处理头发的方法
CN110022846A (zh) * 2016-09-30 2019-07-16 欧莱雅 含有基于硫醇的化合物的美发组合物和用于清洁和处理头发的方法
WO2018058207A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions de traitement capillaire comprenant des composés à base de thiol
KR102215425B1 (ko) * 2016-09-30 2021-02-15 로레알 티올-베이스 화합물을 함유하는 모발용 화장료 조성물 및 모발의 클렌징 및 처리 방법
KR102219825B1 (ko) * 2016-09-30 2021-02-24 로레알 티올-베이스 화합물을 함유하는 모발용 화장료 조성물 및 모발의 클렌징 및 처리 방법
US11439575B2 (en) 2016-09-30 2022-09-13 L'oreal Hair cosmetic compositions containing thiol-based compounds and methods for cleansing and treating hair
EP3525753B1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2022-04-13 L'Oréal Compositions cosmétiques capillaires contenant des composés à base de thiol et procédés de lavage et de traitement des cheveux
CN113796466A (zh) * 2020-06-15 2021-12-17 中农极润生物科技(北京)有限公司 一种犬用美毛膏及其制备方法和应用
CN113796466B (zh) * 2020-06-15 2024-04-19 中农极润生物科技(北京)有限公司 一种犬用美毛膏及其制备方法和应用

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