WO2003045184A1 - Collet for precious stones - Google Patents

Collet for precious stones Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003045184A1
WO2003045184A1 PCT/EP2002/013684 EP0213684W WO03045184A1 WO 2003045184 A1 WO2003045184 A1 WO 2003045184A1 EP 0213684 W EP0213684 W EP 0213684W WO 03045184 A1 WO03045184 A1 WO 03045184A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
collet
grooves
stone
pins
towards
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2002/013684
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Adelio Mario Rossini
Original Assignee
Stilnovo S.R.L.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Stilnovo S.R.L. filed Critical Stilnovo S.R.L.
Priority to JP2003546696A priority Critical patent/JP2005510271A/ja
Priority to US10/496,386 priority patent/US20050011224A1/en
Priority to EP02795092A priority patent/EP1455616A1/en
Priority to AU2002360956A priority patent/AU2002360956A1/en
Publication of WO2003045184A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003045184A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations

Definitions

  • This invention refers to the mounting of precious stones, semi-precious stones and the like to produce jewels and ornaments obtaining a- mounting which complements and sets off the stone.
  • two fundamental embedding systems are possible: embedding on a metal sheet, which has embeddings commonly called “pave”, “beating” or beaten track, or the embedding in a collet or in a “bastina” or in a bezel: generally, by collet it is meant a tubular hollow with a perimeter equipped with fixing projections for fixing an essentially round stone, by “bastina” it is meant a universal metal structure varying in shape to embed and fix stones having various shapes and cuts.
  • the pave technique foresees the perforation and the carving of a metal sheet, causing a partial raising of the cut edge, so as to form portions in relief so as to form raised parts, or "granette", which are then bent on the edge of the stone clamping it inside the carving.
  • the stone is however partially embedded in the metal sheet to the detriment of its visibility and its light.
  • the beating technique foresees the introduction of the stone on two parallel sheets, or a single sheet, or on a collet, which have already been prepared with a slight deformation of their perimeter.
  • the stone is clamped to the base arranged in this way clinching said perimeter with a tool, commonly known as beater, on the girdle of the stone or on its sides.
  • beater a tool, commonly known as beater
  • the bezel clamping technique foresees the use of a frame formed from a metal thread over which a sort of spiked crown is mounted, where the stone is inserted bending the spikes pressed on the edges of the stone. Such a technique does not embed the stone in metal, but it stays inside its bezel or "crown” in any case.
  • a further clamping technique is the one commonly known as "baffo".
  • a series of curls, or small metal protruding edges, which have to hold the stone, are formed from the lower edge of the clamping collet.
  • Such a technique allows the full size of the stone to be shown with a less heavy embedding, but it does have problems of effectiveness and safety.
  • the present invention has the purpose of realising a light and reliable stone embedding, so as to hold and clamp the stone, however leaving its edge completely uncovered, allowing the entire surface of the stone to be lighted, enhancing its features and visibility.
  • the invention foresees a collet, that is to say a seat for the stone, with a special shape enabling an embedding with higher visibility.
  • Such embedding is no longer a support, like in the prior art, surrounding the stone to the detriment of its beauty, but is a dot-shaped clamping element with a limited number of points. It is totally reliable and it does not harm the beauty of the stone.
  • the purpose of the invention is that of realising a support for the stone to be clamped on the jewel, which leaves it almost free from the metal collet, and which allows light to be cast on the whole surface enhancing its features and its shape.
  • This purpose is attained by making an embedding or support system, for a precious or non-precious stone according to the present invention, defined in its widest meaning of device, in the first claim and for its preferential or alternative embodiments in those claims depending on it.
  • Said embedding system is defined in its widest meaning of embedding procedure, in the twelfth claim and, for the preferential or alternative embodiments in those claims depending on it.
  • figure 1 represents a view from above of the collet or stone support
  • figure 2 is an A-A section view of the collet of figure 1 with the pins taken out
  • figure 3 is an A-A section view of the collet of figure 1 with the pins inserted
  • figure 4 is a view from below of the collet of figure 3 with the stone inserted
  • figure 5 is a view from above of the collet of figure 3 with the stone inserted
  • figures 6A and 6B show details of the structure and mounting of the collet according to the present invention
  • figure 7 illustrates alternative shapes of the pins for engaging and clamping the stone
  • Figures 8, 8A, 8B and 8C show a further variant embodiment of the present invention
  • Figure 9 shows a plan view illustrating another possible embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 1 shows a view from above of the collet according to the present invention. It is made up of a polygonal straight or round closed contour 1, having a plurality of projections alternatively towards the outside and the inside, for example in the shape of a four-leaf clover, as shown in figures 1 to 7.
  • Vertical, cylindrical grooves 3 are made from the bottom to the top in the inner projections 2 of the contour of the collet 1, preferably in circular section. As shown in figures 2 and 3, such grooves do not reach the upper side of the collet, but stop before getting to the upper surface 4 of the collet thus making a shoulder towards the top.
  • such vertical cylindrical grooves are open towards the inside with a round clamping section according to an angle greater than 180 degrees and each is intended to accurately hold and clamp a single cylindrical clamping pin 5 whose dimensions are proportionate to the grooves or hollows 3.
  • Figure 3 shows the pins 5 already placed in their hollows 3.
  • the hollows 3 and the pins 5 have a slightly conical or bell mouthed shape so as to assure a better mutual coupling and a more effective clamping of the stone.
  • Figure 4 illustrates the view from below of the stone 8 inside the collet 1 and with the pins 5 inserted to clamp the stone itself against the upper shoulder.
  • Figure 5 illustrates the view from above of the stone 8 inside the collet 1, with the pins 5 inserted - but not in view - and with the upper shoulder of the verticis 2 of the upper face 4 protruding over the stone in the verticis 2 leaving the remaining circumference completely free.
  • Figures 6A and 6B show, with greater detail, the mounting and clamping of the stone.
  • the body of the collet 1 receives the cylindrical pin 5 in its hollow 3 to fix the stone 8 against its shoulder 10.
  • the pin 5 does not reach the bottom of the hollow 3, but engages against the lower face of the stone 8 pushing its upper face against the shoulder 10.
  • the upper end of the pin 5, just like the lower face of the shoulder 10, is appropriately rounded or splayed to push the stone against the shoulder.
  • the pins 5 can be clamped through known means, to keep the stone's collet secure and effective throughout time.
  • FIG 6B shows, the perimeter of the stone 8 is completely free, apart from the points where it holds against the shoulders 10, and can be lighted enhancing its features.
  • the upper surface of the stone 8 sticks out over the upper face 4 of the collet and is fully visible.
  • figure 7 illustrates alternative shapes of the hollow 3 and of the pins 5 for engaging and clamping the stone, with a view from below.
  • Pin and hollow with a round section are shown in position A.
  • the hollow 3 always has a containing angle of greater than 180 degrees, to hold the pin 5 inside without preventing it from turning upon itself.
  • Pin and hollow with double cylinder are shown in position B.
  • the hollow 3 can be like the previous one or, alternatively, be clamped to hold the pin and avoid it turning upon itself.
  • a pin 3 with a round section with a rectangular gib is shown in position C.
  • the relative hollow 3 can be made always round with a containing angle greater than 180 degrees, i.e. like the second case of position B.
  • a pin 3 with a cam section or droplet shape section is shown in position D. It is like the previous one and its hollow 3 can be made according to the two alternatives previously explained.
  • the variations in the section of the pin 5, according to the alternatives shown in figure 7, can be limited to just the upper end, acting as a clamper of the stone 8 to provide a larger surface to hold it and clamp it in position.
  • pins and grooves can be shaped with a cross-section to suit requirements, being however sufficiently similar so as to provide for a coupling which keeps the pin in the correct position inside the groove.
  • FIG 8 An alternative embodiment of the collet according to the present invention is shown in figure 8, from 8 to 8C.
  • the collet, according to the variant described, is shown from the above in figure 8. It is still made up of a closed polygonal contour 30 in the shape of a four leaf clover, as shown in previous figures.
  • the grooves 31 are made in internal projections 32 of the collet's contour 1 from bottom to top, with dihedral section having an angle wider than 90 degrees. Such grooves reach the upper side of the collet, but are tapered from bottom to top narrowing before reaching the upper surface of the collet 34, thus making a dimensional shoulder towards the top.
  • Such tapered grooves 31 can be formed inside the contour 30, or can be obtained by applying "appliques" 31' on vertical hollows 31, which have already been made as shown in figures 8A-C.
  • Pins 35 are adapted to the grooves 31, 31' which must receive them and narrow in their outer part from bottom to top.
  • pins 35 In their upper inner part pins 35 contain both the upper and the lower part of the grooves 37 encircling the stone 38.
  • Two opposite pins 35 and a stone 38 are shown in figure 8A before the stone is embedded in grooves 37.
  • Two opposite pins 35 with the stone 38 already inserted in their grooves 37 are shown in figure 8B.
  • pins 35 integral with the stone 38 have been simultaneously inserted in their grooves 31, 31' up to the tolerated level of their dimensional narrowing compared to the collet 30, constituting an embedding narrowing from bottom to top and clamping the pins 35 joined with the stone 38 to the set level.
  • the exemplified number of mounting points of the stone 38 is four.
  • a variant of the description which has been made could consist of the same collet in which grooves are made which foresee, from the faces of the dihedron, once the embedding is complete, a thrust towards the third central side consisting of the stone.
  • the pins do not necessarily have to foresee a narrowing of their section. It is sufficient to incline the pins with a constant section upwards, which keeps the upper section (from the top) smaller in side. The effect obtained is that of a lateral thrust which ensures the seal of the stone in complete security.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates a mounting with pairs of opposite grooves 31, 31A, in which the grooves of each pair have a different configuration from that of the grooves of the other pair. From that which has been described above it is clear, according to the case, that it is possible to carry out the invention using pins with a different section, i.e. an inclined constant section, a non-inclined tapered section, an inclined tapered section. In other words, the pins and/or the grooves can have a cross section of any geometrical shape.
  • the collet system according to the present invention offers substantial advantages compared to the embedding and clamping systems of precious stones proposed by the prior art, for the system as for the embedding.
  • the collet system according to the invention allows a stone clamping with quite a number of points to be obtained which is secure and effective throughout time without encircling the stone, leaving its upper part to stick out of the collet and leaving the entire surface practically free for refracting light.
  • the collet system according to the present invention can adapt to any contour and stone shape, since it works on quite a number of points of the contour.
  • the polygonal collet contour, with perimetric grooves and projections, offers great ability to adapt to possible unevenness and asymmetries of the edge of the stone to embed in the jewel.
  • the lobe openings of the polygonal section of the collet let light reach the entire stone including its sides, and enhance its beauty.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Ultra Sonic Daignosis Equipment (AREA)
PCT/EP2002/013684 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones WO2003045184A1 (en)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2003546696A JP2005510271A (ja) 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 宝石用コレット
US10/496,386 US20050011224A1 (en) 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones
EP02795092A EP1455616A1 (en) 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones
AU2002360956A AU2002360956A1 (en) 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT2001MI002503A ITMI20012503A1 (it) 2001-11-29 2001-11-29 Castone per pietre preziose e relativo metodo di incassatura
ITMI2001A002503 2001-11-29

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2003045184A1 true WO2003045184A1 (en) 2003-06-05

Family

ID=11448636

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2002/013684 WO2003045184A1 (en) 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US20050011224A1 (ja)
EP (1) EP1455616A1 (ja)
JP (1) JP2005510271A (ja)
AU (1) AU2002360956A1 (ja)
IT (1) ITMI20012503A1 (ja)
WO (1) WO2003045184A1 (ja)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7201021B2 (en) * 2002-09-23 2007-04-10 Heart & Company Jewelry article having magnetic elements and interchangeable settings
EP3037013A1 (fr) 2014-12-22 2016-06-29 Cartier International AG Piece de bijouterie et procede de sertissage de ladite piece de bijouterie

Families Citing this family (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP4963884B2 (ja) * 2005-07-25 2012-06-27 株式会社桑山 宝石を有する装身用部材の製造方法
US20070277553A1 (en) * 2005-08-22 2007-12-06 Tse-An Wang Pendent
DE602006003522D1 (de) 2006-02-28 2008-12-18 Blancpain Sa Verfahren zum Einfassen von Steinen in einem Trägerelement
CN102273012B (zh) 2009-01-09 2013-11-20 株式会社村田制作所 无线ic器件及无线ic模块
ITCN20130003A1 (it) * 2013-03-20 2014-09-21 Stilnovo S R L Metodo per l'incassatura di pietre ornamentali in prodotti di gioielleria, bigiotteria e simili e prodotti ottenuti con tale metodo.
USD852670S1 (en) * 2015-01-07 2019-07-02 Folli-Follie Commercial Manufacturing And Technical Societe Anonyme Pendant
USD922900S1 (en) * 2016-04-26 2021-06-22 Pasquale Bruni S.P.A. Ring

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1941782A (en) * 1933-03-22 1934-01-02 Milhening Inc J Reflecting base jewel mounting
GB588891A (en) * 1945-03-09 1947-06-05 Frederick Joseph Kuczajda Improvements in or relating to stone settings for articles of jewellery
GB2245814A (en) * 1990-07-13 1992-01-15 Kanzen Rachamin Tallab A collet for mounting a stone on a ring or other jewellery

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US795109A (en) * 1904-10-25 1905-07-18 George William Dover Gem-setting.
US2132905A (en) * 1936-06-24 1938-10-11 Snc V Maynier & G Pincon Stone setting device for jewelry or other applications
US2584207A (en) * 1950-07-25 1952-02-05 Holl Charles Gem setting and articles of jewelry made therefrom
US3898869A (en) * 1974-01-21 1975-08-12 Star Engraving Company Ring with sealed mounting containing mirror surface
US4835987A (en) * 1985-04-12 1989-06-06 Diamant Applications Processes for the mechanized manufacture of jewellery comprising a plurality of small contiguous stones set in a support made of precious metal, and jewellery obtained by these processes
FR2580155B1 (fr) * 1985-04-12 1987-07-10 Diamant Applic Procedes de fabrication mecanisee de bijoux comportant une pluralite de petites pierres jointives enchassees dans un support en metal precieux et bijoux obtenus par ce procede
US4819453A (en) * 1987-07-30 1989-04-11 Mcnamara Francis J Jewelry setting
US5848539A (en) * 1997-03-28 1998-12-15 Gem Information Center, Inc. Invisible precious stone setting and method therefor
US6415629B1 (en) * 1999-11-19 2002-07-09 Continential Jewelry (Usa) Inc. Apparatus for setting precious gems in jewelry through the use of screws and other stabilizing means

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1941782A (en) * 1933-03-22 1934-01-02 Milhening Inc J Reflecting base jewel mounting
GB588891A (en) * 1945-03-09 1947-06-05 Frederick Joseph Kuczajda Improvements in or relating to stone settings for articles of jewellery
GB2245814A (en) * 1990-07-13 1992-01-15 Kanzen Rachamin Tallab A collet for mounting a stone on a ring or other jewellery

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7201021B2 (en) * 2002-09-23 2007-04-10 Heart & Company Jewelry article having magnetic elements and interchangeable settings
EP3037013A1 (fr) 2014-12-22 2016-06-29 Cartier International AG Piece de bijouterie et procede de sertissage de ladite piece de bijouterie
CH710553A1 (fr) * 2014-12-22 2016-06-30 Cartier Int Ag Pièce de bijouterie et procédé de sertissage de ladite pièce de bijouterie.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20050011224A1 (en) 2005-01-20
EP1455616A1 (en) 2004-09-15
JP2005510271A (ja) 2005-04-21
ITMI20012503A1 (it) 2003-05-29
AU2002360956A1 (en) 2003-06-10

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