US20050011224A1 - Collet for precious stones - Google Patents

Collet for precious stones Download PDF

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Publication number
US20050011224A1
US20050011224A1 US10/496,386 US49638604A US2005011224A1 US 20050011224 A1 US20050011224 A1 US 20050011224A1 US 49638604 A US49638604 A US 49638604A US 2005011224 A1 US2005011224 A1 US 2005011224A1
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
collet
grooves
stone
pins
towards
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
Application number
US10/496,386
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English (en)
Inventor
Adelio Rossini
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
STILNOVA Srl
Original Assignee
STILNOVA Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by STILNOVA Srl filed Critical STILNOVA Srl
Assigned to STILNOVA S.R.I. reassignment STILNOVA S.R.I. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: ROSSINI, ADELIO MARIO
Publication of US20050011224A1 publication Critical patent/US20050011224A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations

Definitions

  • This invention refers to the mounting of precious stones, semi-precious stones and the like to produce jewels and ornaments obtaining a mounting which complements and sets off the stone.
  • two fundamental embedding systems are possible: embedding on a metal sheet, which has embeddings commonly called “pave”, “beating” or beaten track, or the embedding in a collet or in a “bastina” or in a bezel: generally, by collet it is meant a tubular hollow with a perimeter equipped with fixing projections for fixing an essentially round stone, by “bastina” it is meant a universal metal structure varying in shape to embed and fix stones having various shapes and cuts.
  • the pavé technique foresees the perforation and the carving of a metal sheet, causing a partial raising of the cut edge, so as to form portions in relief so as to form raised parts, or “granette”, which are then bent on the edge of the stone clamping it inside the carving.
  • the stone is however partially embedded in the metal sheet to the detriment of its visibility and its light.
  • the beating technique foresees the introduction of the stone on two parallel sheets, or a single sheet, or on a collet, which have already been prepared with a slight deformation of their perimeter.
  • the stone is clamped to the base arranged in this way clinching said perimeter with a tool, commonly known as beater, on the girdle of the stone or on its sides.
  • beater a tool, commonly known as beater
  • the bezel clamping technique foresees the use of a frame formed from a metal thread over which a sort of spiked crown is mounted, where the stone is inserted bending the spikes pressed on the edges of the stone.
  • a further clamping technique is the one commonly known as “baffo”.
  • a series of curls, or small metal protruding edges, which have to hold the stone, are formed from the lower edge of the clamping collet.
  • Such a technique allows the full size of the stone to be shown with a less heavy embedding, but it does have problems of effectiveness and safety.
  • the present invention has the purpose of realising a light and reliable stone embedding, so as to hold and clamp the stone, however leaving its edge completely uncovered, allowing the entire surface of the stone to be lighted, enhancing its features and visibility.
  • the invention foresees a collet, that is to say a seat for the stone, with a special shape enabling an embedding with higher visibility.
  • Such embedding is no longer a support, like in the prior art, surrounding the stone to the detriment of its beauty, but is a dot-shaped clamping element with a limited number of points. It is totally reliable and it does not harm the beauty of the stone.
  • the purpose of the invention is that of realising a support for the stone to be clamped on the jewel, which leaves it almost free from the metal collet, and which allows light to be cast on the whole surface enhancing its features and its shape.
  • an embedding or support system for a precious or non-precious stone according to the present invention, defined in its widest meaning of device, in the first claim and for its preferential or alternative embodiments in those claims depending on it.
  • Said embedding system is defined in its widest meaning of embedding procedure, in the twelfth claim and, for the preferential or alternative embodiments in those claims depending on it.
  • FIG. 1 represents a view from above of the collet or stone support
  • FIG. 2 is an A-A section view of the collet of FIG. 1 with the pins taken out;
  • FIG. 3 is an A-A section view of the collet of FIG. 1 with the pins inserted;
  • FIG. 4 is a view from below of the collet of FIG. 3 with the stone inserted;
  • FIG. 5 is a view from above of the collet of FIG. 3 with the stone inserted;
  • FIGS. 6A and 6B show details of the structure and mounting of the collet according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 7 illustrates alternative shapes of the pins for engaging and clamping the stone
  • FIGS. 8, 8A , 8 B and 8 C show a further variant embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 9 shows a plan view illustrating another possible embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 1 shows a view from above of the collet according to the present invention. It is made up of a polygonal straight or round closed contour 1 , having a plurality of projections alternatively towards the outside and the inside, for example in the shape of a four-leaf clover, as shown in FIGS. 1 to 7 .
  • Vertical, cylindrical grooves 3 are made from the bottom to the top in the inner projections 2 of the contour of the collet 1 , preferably in circular section. As shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 , such grooves do not reach the upper side of the collet, but stop before getting to the upper surface 4 of the collet thus making a shoulder towards the top. In the embodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 7 , such vertical cylindrical grooves are open towards the inside with a round clamping section according to an angle greater than 180 degrees and each is intended to accurately hold and clamp a single cylindrical clamping pin 5 whose dimensions are proportionate to the grooves or hollows 3 . FIG. 3 shows the pins 5 already placed in their hollows 3 . There can be three or more mounting points of the stone 8 but in general their number is limited to between four and six.
  • the hollows 3 and the pins 5 have a slightly conical or bell mouthed shape so as to assure a better mutual coupling and a more effective clamping of the stone.
  • FIG. 4 illustrates the view from below of the stone 8 inside the collet 1 and with the pins 5 inserted to clamp the stone itself against the upper shoulder.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates the view from above of the stone 8 inside the collet 1 , with the pins 5 inserted—but not in view—and with the upper shoulder of the verticis 2 of the upper face 4 protruding over the stone in the verticis 2 leaving the remaining circumference completely free.
  • FIGS. 6A and 6B show, with greater detail, the mounting and clamping of the stone.
  • the body of the collet 1 receives the cylindrical pin 5 in its hollow 3 to fix the stone 8 against its shoulder 10 .
  • the pin 5 does not reach the bottom of the hollow 3 , but engages against the lower face of the stone 8 pushing its upper face against the shoulder 10 .
  • the upper end of the pin 5 just like the lower face of the shoulder 10 , is appropriately rounded or splayed to push the stone against the shoulder.
  • the perimeter of the stone 8 is completely free, apart from the points where it holds against the shoulders 10 , and can be lighted enhancing its features.
  • the upper surface of the stone 8 sticks out over the upper face 4 of the collet and is fully visible.
  • FIG. 7 illustrates alternative shapes of the hollow 3 and of the pins 5 for engaging and clamping the stone, with a view from below.
  • Pin and hollow with a round section are shown in position A.
  • the hollow 3 always has a containing angle of greater than 180 degrees, to hold the pin 5 inside without preventing it from turning upon itself.
  • Pin and hollow with double cylinder are shown in position B.
  • the hollow 3 can be like the previous one or, alternatively, be clamped to hold the pin and avoid it turning upon itself.
  • a pin 3 with a round section with a rectangular gib is shown in position C.
  • the relative hollow 3 can be made always round with a containing angle greater than 180 degrees, i.e. like the second case of position B.
  • a pin 3 with a cam section or droplet shape section is shown in position D. It is like the previous one and its hollow 3 can be made according to the two alternatives previously explained.
  • the variations in the section of the pin 5 according to the alternatives shown in FIG. 7 , can be limited to just the upper end, acting as a damper of the stone 8 to provide a larger surface to hold it and clamp it in position.
  • pins and grooves can be shaped with a cross-section to suit requirements, being however sufficiently similar so as to provide for a coupling which keeps the pin in the correct position inside the groove.
  • FIG. 8 An alternative embodiment of the collet according to the present invention is shown in FIG. 8 , from 8 to 8 C.
  • the collet, according to the variant described, is shown from the above in FIG. 8 . It is still made up of a closed polygonal contour 30 in the shape of a four leaf clover, as shown in previous figures.
  • the grooves 31 are made in internal projections 32 of the collet's contour 1 from bottom to top, with dihedral section having an angle wider than 90 degrees. Such grooves reach the upper side of the collet, but are tapered from bottom to top narrowing before reaching the upper surface of the collet 34 , thus making a dimensional shoulder towards the top.
  • Such tapered grooves 31 can be formed inside the contour 30 , or can be obtained by applying “appliqués” 31 ′ on vertical hollows 31 , which have already been made as shown in FIGS. 8 A-C.
  • Pins 35 are adapted to the grooves 31 , 31 ′ which must receive them and narrow in their outer part from bottom to top. In their upper inner part pins 35 contain both the upper and the lower part of the grooves 37 encircling the stone 38 . Two opposite pins 35 and a stone 38 are shown in FIG. 8A before the stone is embedded in grooves 37 . Two opposite pins 35 with the stone 38 already inserted in their grooves 37 are shown in FIG. 8B . In FIG.
  • pins 35 integral with the stone 38 have been simultaneously inserted in their grooves 31 , 31 ′ up to the tolerated level of their dimensional narrowing compared to the collet 30 , constituting an embedding narrowing from bottom to top and clamping the pins 35 joined with the stone 38 to the set level.
  • the exemplified number of mounting points of the stone 38 is four.
  • a variant of the description which has been made could consist of the same collet in which grooves are made which foresee, from the faces of the dihedron, once the embedding is complete, a thrust towards the third central side consisting of the stone.
  • the 5 pins do not necessarily have to foresee a narrowing of their section. It is sufficient to incline the pins with a constant section upwards, which keeps the upper section (from the top) smaller in side. The effect obtained is that of a lateral thrust which ensures the seal of the stone in complete security.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates a mounting with pairs of opposite grooves 31 , 31 A, in which the grooves of each pair have a different configuration from that of the grooves of the other pair.
  • pins with a different section i.e. an inclined constant section, a non-inclined tapered section, an inclined tapered section.
  • the pins and/or the grooves can have a cross section of any geometrical shape.
  • the collet system according to the present invention offers substantial advantages compared to the embedding and clamping systems of precious stones proposed by the prior art, for the system as for the embedding.
  • the following are the relevant advantages among them.
  • the collet system according to the invention allows a stone clamping with quite a number of points to be obtained which is secure and effective throughout time without encircling the stone, leaving its upper part to stick out of the collet and leaving the entire surface practically free for refracting light.
  • the collet system according to the present invention can adapt to any contour and stone shape, since it works on quite a number of points of the contour.
  • the polygonal collet contour, with perimetric grooves and projections, offers great ability to adapt to possible unevenness and asymmetries of the edge of the stone to embed in the jewel.
  • the lobe openings of the polygonal section of the collet let light reach the entire stone including its sides, and enhance its beauty.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Ultra Sonic Daignosis Equipment (AREA)
US10/496,386 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones Abandoned US20050011224A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITMI2001A002503 2001-11-29
IT2001MI002503A ITMI20012503A1 (it) 2001-11-29 2001-11-29 Castone per pietre preziose e relativo metodo di incassatura
PCT/EP2002/013684 WO2003045184A1 (en) 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US20050011224A1 true US20050011224A1 (en) 2005-01-20

Family

ID=11448636

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US10/496,386 Abandoned US20050011224A1 (en) 2001-11-29 2002-11-26 Collet for precious stones

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US20050011224A1 (ja)
EP (1) EP1455616A1 (ja)
JP (1) JP2005510271A (ja)
AU (1) AU2002360956A1 (ja)
IT (1) ITMI20012503A1 (ja)
WO (1) WO2003045184A1 (ja)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20070277553A1 (en) * 2005-08-22 2007-12-06 Tse-An Wang Pendent
ITCN20130003A1 (it) * 2013-03-20 2014-09-21 Stilnovo S R L Metodo per l'incassatura di pietre ornamentali in prodotti di gioielleria, bigiotteria e simili e prodotti ottenuti con tale metodo.
USD852670S1 (en) * 2015-01-07 2019-07-02 Folli-Follie Commercial Manufacturing And Technical Societe Anonyme Pendant
USD922900S1 (en) * 2016-04-26 2021-06-22 Pasquale Bruni S.P.A. Ring

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6715315B1 (en) * 2002-09-23 2004-04-06 Heart & Company Jewelry articles having magnetic elements and interchangeable settings
JP4963884B2 (ja) * 2005-07-25 2012-06-27 株式会社桑山 宝石を有する装身用部材の製造方法
ATE413109T1 (de) 2006-02-28 2008-11-15 Blancpain Sa Verfahren zum einfassen von steinen in einem trägerelement
WO2010079830A1 (ja) 2009-01-09 2010-07-15 株式会社村田製作所 無線ｉｃデバイス、無線ｉｃモジュール、および無線ｉｃモジュールの製造方法
CH710553B1 (fr) * 2014-12-22 2019-11-29 Cartier Int Ag Pièce de bijouterie et procédé de sertissage de ladite pièce de bijouterie.

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US795109A (en) * 1904-10-25 1905-07-18 George William Dover Gem-setting.
US1941782A (en) * 1933-03-22 1934-01-02 Milhening Inc J Reflecting base jewel mounting
US2132905A (en) * 1936-06-24 1938-10-11 Snc V Maynier & G Pincon Stone setting device for jewelry or other applications
US2584207A (en) * 1950-07-25 1952-02-05 Holl Charles Gem setting and articles of jewelry made therefrom
US3898869A (en) * 1974-01-21 1975-08-12 Star Engraving Company Ring with sealed mounting containing mirror surface
US4748728A (en) * 1985-04-12 1988-06-07 Diamant Applications Processes for the mechanized manufacture of jewelry comprising a plurality of small contiguous stones set in a support made of precious metal jewelry
US4819453A (en) * 1987-07-30 1989-04-11 Mcnamara Francis J Jewelry setting
US4835987A (en) * 1985-04-12 1989-06-06 Diamant Applications Processes for the mechanized manufacture of jewellery comprising a plurality of small contiguous stones set in a support made of precious metal, and jewellery obtained by these processes
US5848539A (en) * 1997-03-28 1998-12-15 Gem Information Center, Inc. Invisible precious stone setting and method therefor
US6393680B1 (en) * 1999-11-19 2002-05-28 Continental Jewelry (Usa) Inc. Method for setting precious gems in jewelry through the use of screws and other stabilizing means

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB588891A (en) * 1945-03-09 1947-06-05 Frederick Joseph Kuczajda Improvements in or relating to stone settings for articles of jewellery
GB2245814A (en) * 1990-07-13 1992-01-15 Kanzen Rachamin Tallab A collet for mounting a stone on a ring or other jewellery

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US795109A (en) * 1904-10-25 1905-07-18 George William Dover Gem-setting.
US1941782A (en) * 1933-03-22 1934-01-02 Milhening Inc J Reflecting base jewel mounting
US2132905A (en) * 1936-06-24 1938-10-11 Snc V Maynier & G Pincon Stone setting device for jewelry or other applications
US2584207A (en) * 1950-07-25 1952-02-05 Holl Charles Gem setting and articles of jewelry made therefrom
US3898869A (en) * 1974-01-21 1975-08-12 Star Engraving Company Ring with sealed mounting containing mirror surface
US4748728A (en) * 1985-04-12 1988-06-07 Diamant Applications Processes for the mechanized manufacture of jewelry comprising a plurality of small contiguous stones set in a support made of precious metal jewelry
US4835987A (en) * 1985-04-12 1989-06-06 Diamant Applications Processes for the mechanized manufacture of jewellery comprising a plurality of small contiguous stones set in a support made of precious metal, and jewellery obtained by these processes
US4819453A (en) * 1987-07-30 1989-04-11 Mcnamara Francis J Jewelry setting
US5848539A (en) * 1997-03-28 1998-12-15 Gem Information Center, Inc. Invisible precious stone setting and method therefor
US6393680B1 (en) * 1999-11-19 2002-05-28 Continental Jewelry (Usa) Inc. Method for setting precious gems in jewelry through the use of screws and other stabilizing means

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20070277553A1 (en) * 2005-08-22 2007-12-06 Tse-An Wang Pendent
ITCN20130003A1 (it) * 2013-03-20 2014-09-21 Stilnovo S R L Metodo per l'incassatura di pietre ornamentali in prodotti di gioielleria, bigiotteria e simili e prodotti ottenuti con tale metodo.
WO2014147050A1 (en) * 2013-03-20 2014-09-25 Stilnovo Srl Method for the setting of ornamental stones in jewelry products, costume jewelry and the like and products obtained by such method
USD852670S1 (en) * 2015-01-07 2019-07-02 Folli-Follie Commercial Manufacturing And Technical Societe Anonyme Pendant
USD922900S1 (en) * 2016-04-26 2021-06-22 Pasquale Bruni S.P.A. Ring

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITMI20012503A1 (it) 2003-05-29
JP2005510271A (ja) 2005-04-21
WO2003045184A1 (en) 2003-06-05
EP1455616A1 (en) 2004-09-15
AU2002360956A1 (en) 2003-06-10

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Date Code Title Description
AS Assignment

Owner name: STILNOVA S.R.I., ITALY

Free format text: ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST;ASSIGNOR:ROSSINI, ADELIO MARIO;REEL/FRAME:015800/0804

Effective date: 20040517

STCB Information on status: application discontinuation

Free format text: ABANDONED -- FAILURE TO RESPOND TO AN OFFICE ACTION