Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
  • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of topical compositions for improving the appearance and feel of human skin.
• it relates to leave-on skin care compositions, more particularly oil-in-water emulsions, which are effective in regulating skin condition without high levels of tack.
• Vitamin B3 compounds particularly niacinamide
• niacinamide have recently been found to provide measurable benefits in regulating skin condition, including regulating fine lines, wrinkles and other forms of uneven or rough surface texture associated with aged or photodamaged skin.
• Such materials when used at clinically effective levels can create undesirable short-term cosmetic effects, in particular a feeling of stickiness or tack upon application to the skin.
• EP-A-692J42 discloses the use of hollow, deformable particles of a size of from 1 to 250 ⁇ m for reducing the sticky feel of compositions rich in fatty substances.
• WO92/19217 describes cosmetic compositions in the form of aqueous gels which comprise glycerine, a panthenol moisturiser and a polyglycerylmethacrylate (PGMA) lubricant. The compositions are said to have reduced tack.
• PGMA polyglycerylmethacrylate
• WO93/24101 describes cosmetic compositions comprising, inter alia, a polyhydric alcohol, especially glycerine, and PGMA. It teaches that trimethylglycine (betaine) is valuable from the viewpoint of providing improved skin feel and tack reduction.
• Co-pending PCT applications nos. PCT US98/22483 and PCT/US99/04748 disclose that the sticky feel of vitamin B3 compounds can be offset by organic particulates.
• it is known in the art, e.g. from WO98/52530 to add emollients, including petrolatum and branched hydrocarbons to vitamin B3 compositions.
• Co-pending PCT application no. PCT/US98/21521 discloses cosmetic compositions which provide improved moisturisation, skin feel, skin softness, skin smoothness benefits, together with excellent rub-in and absorption characteristics. Examples therein comprise both isohexadecane and niacinamide.
• the present invention relates to a topical, leave-on skin care composition
• a topical, leave-on skin care composition comprising: a) from about 1% to about 10% of a vitamin B3 compound; b) a high spreading oil selected from: i) branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 1000 and ii) liquid ester emollients of formula I:
• R! is selected from H or CH3, R-2, R and R 4 are independently selected from C1-C20 straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and x is an integer of from 1 to 20 and mixtures thereof; and iii) mixtures thereof; and c) a dermatologically acceptable carrier, characterised in that the composition comprises from 0.3% to 4% of an anti-tack agent selected from a poly(alphaolefm) having a MW of from 260 to 1000, and an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum, cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin.
• an anti-tack agent selected from a poly(alphaolefm) having a MW of from 260 to 1000
• an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum, cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin.
• a second aspect of the invention relates to the use of polydecene for reducing the stickiness of a leave-on skin care composition comprising from about 1% to about 10% of a vitamin B3 compound.
• a third aspect of the invention relates to the use of petrolatum for reducing the stickiness of a leave-on skin care composition comprising from about 1% to about 10%) of a vitamin B3 compound.
• compositions which are preferably oil-in-water emulsions, are useful for maintaining a natural skin appearance and can be topically applied without undesirable cosmetic effects such as feeling sticky on the skin.
• compositions of the invention comprise less than about 4%, preferably less than about 1% of an anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
• the term "leave-on" in relation to skin care compositions means that it intended to be used without a rinsing step, such that after applying the composition to the skin, the composition is preferably left on the skin for a period of at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 1 hour, most preferably for several hours.
• Active and other ingredients useful herein may be categorised or described herein by their cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the active and other ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or operate via more than one mode of action. Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit an ingredient to the particularly stated application or applications listed.
• compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating skin condition, including regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin, especially those associated with skin ageing, such as wrinkles. Such discontinuities may be induced or caused by internal and/or external factors.
• Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation (e.g., from sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like.
• Intrinsic factors include chronological ageing and other biochemical changes from within the skin.
• a first essential component of the compositions of the invention is from about 1%> to about 10%, preferably from about 2% to about 8%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7% of a Vitamin B3 compound.
• Vitamin B3 compound means a compound having the formula:
• R is - CO H2 (i.e., niacinamide), - COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or - CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
• exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.
• non-vasodilating means that the ester does not commonly yield a visible flushing response after application to the skin in the subject compositions (the majority of the general population would not experience a visible flushing response, although such compounds may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye, i.e., the ester is non- rubefacient).
• Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.
• derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are derivatives of niacinamide resulting from substitution of one or more of the amide group hydrogen.
• derivatives of niacinamide useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., CI - C18).
• nicotinuric acid CgHgN2 ⁇ 3
• nicotinyl hydroxamic acid C6H6N2O2
• Exemplary nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of the carboxylic acids salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, and palmitic acid and the like.
• Other examples of vitamin B3 compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, N-methyl-nicotinamide, and niaprazine.
• Vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).
• One or more vitamin B3 compounds may be used herein.
• Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.
• Salts of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein.
• Useful examples include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (e.g. chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts.
• organic or inorganic salts such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (e.g. chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts.
• anionic inorganic species e.g. chloride
• organic carboxylic acid salts e.g.
• These and other salts of the vitamin B3 compound can be readily prepared by the skilled artisan, for example, as described by W. Wenner, "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Isoascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide", J. Organic Chemistry, VOL. 14, 22-26 (1949). Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacinamide.
• the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B3 compound is uncomplexed, or after delivery to the skin becomes uncomplexed. More preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is essentially uncomplexed. Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B3 compound in a salt or otherwise complexed form, such complex is preferably substantially reversible upon delivery of the composition to the skin. Such complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of from about 5.0 to about 6.0. Such reversibility can be readily determined by one of ordinary skill in the art. Preferably, the vitamin B3 compound contains less than 50% of the compound in salt form.
• the vitamin B3 compound may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources.
• the vitamin B3 compound is preferably substantially pure, by which is meant substantially free of impurities arising from the original source.
• Such compounds can be provided in solution, optionally with an anti-oxidant or other stabiliser.
• compositions of the invention further comprise from 3% to 10%, preferably from about 3% to about 8%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, of a high spreading oil selected from i) branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 1000 and ii) liquid ester emollients of formula I:
• R is selected from H or CH3, R-2, R3 and R 4 are independently selected from C1-C20 straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and x is an integer of from 1 to 20.
• Suitable examples of branched chain hydrocarbons include isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane. Preferred is isohexadecane.
• the poly(alphaolefm) anti-tack agents herein, described in further detail below, are typically also branched chain hydrocarbons. When these anti-tack agents are used then their amount is to be considered included in the levels of high spreading oils referred to above.
• Suitable ester emollient materials of Formula I above include methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate.
• Preferred ester emollients for use herein are isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof.
• Particularly preferred high spreading oils for use herein are isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, or mixtures thereof.
• compositions of the invention comprise high levels of glycerine.
• the ester emollient material is preferably present in the compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%>, preferably from about 0J%> to about 8%, especially from about 0.5%) to about 5% by weight of composition.
• a further essential component of the compositions of the invention is from about 0.3% to about 4%o, preferably from about 0.5%> to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 1%> to about 2%, of an anti-tack agent selected from a poly(alphaolefm) having a MW of from about 260 to about 1000 and an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum, cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin.
• an anti-tack agent selected from a poly(alphaolefm) having a MW of from about 260 to about 1000 and an occlusive agent selected from petrolatum, cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin.
• Suitable poly(alphaolefms) as described above can be derived from 1-alkene monomers having from about 6 to about 14 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms, especially from about 8 to about 12 carbon atoms.
• the poly(alphaolefms) useful herein are preferably hydrogenated poly(alphaolefm) oligomers.
• Examples of 1- alkene monomers for use in preparing the polyalphaolefin oligomers herein include 1- hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, branched chain isomers such as 4- methyl- 1-pentene, and combinations thereof. Most preferred are oligomers of 1-octene to
• 1-dodecene or combinations thereof is Especially preferred.
• polydecene is polydecene.
• Suitable polydecene oils are commercially available from Mobil Chemical Company, P.O. Box
• an anti-tack agent is petrolatum.
• compositions of the present invention comprise a dermato logically acceptable carrier, suitable for topical application to the skin within which the essential materials and optional other materials are incorporated to enable the essential materials and optional components to be delivered to the skin at an appropriate concentration.
• the carrier can thus act as a diluent, dispersant, solvent, or the like for the particulate material(s) and the active which ensures that they can be applied to and distributed evenly over the selected target at an appropriate concentration.
• the topical compositions useful in the subject invention may be made into a wide variety of product forms such as are known in the art. These include, but are not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, sprays, ointments and mousses. Highly preferred carriers are liquid or semi-solid.
• the carrier is in the form of a lotion, cream or a gel, more preferably one which has a sufficient thickness or yield point to resist sedimentation of organic particulates.
• the carrier can itself be inert or it can possess dermatological benefits of its own.
• the carrier should also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and should not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other use benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention.
• Preferred carriers contain a dermatologically acceptable, hydrophilic diluent.
• Suitable hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as C ⁇ - C4 monohydric alcohols and low molecular weight glycols and polyols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g. of MW 200-600), polypropylene glycol (e.g. of MW 425-2025), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, iso-propanol, sorbitol esters, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof.
• the diluent is preferably liquid.
• Water is an especially preferred diluent.
• the composition preferably comprises at least about 60%> of the hydrophilic diluent.
• Preferred carriers are emulsions comprising a hydrophilic phase, especially an aqueous phase, and a hydrophobic phase e.g., a lipid, oil or oily material.
• the hydrophilic phase will be dispersed in the hydrophobic phase, or vice versa, to form respectively hydrophilic or hydrophobic dispersed and continuous phases, depending on the composition ingredients.
• the term "dispersed phase” is a term well-known to one skilled in the art which means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended in and surrounded by a continuous phase.
• the dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase.
• the emulsion may be or comprise (e.g., in a triple or other multi-phase emulsion) an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion such as a water-in-silicone emulsion.
• Oil-in-water emulsions typically comprise from about 1%> to about 50%> (preferably about 1%) to about 30%) of the dispersed hydrophobic phase and from about 1%> to about 99%> (preferably from about 40%> to about 90%>) of the continuous hydrophilic phase; water-in- oil emulsions typically comprise from about 1%> to about 98% (preferably from about 40% to about 90%) of the dispersed hydrophilic phase and from about 1%> to about 50%> (preferably about 1%> to about 30%>) of the continuous hydrophobic phase.
• the emulsion may also comprise a gel network, such as described in G. M.
• Preferred compositions herein are oil-in- water emulsions.
• Preferred compositions have an apparent viscosity of from about 5,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s (centipoise).
• preferred lotions have an apparent viscosity of from about 10,000 to about 40,000 mPa.s; preferred creams have an apparent viscosity of from about 30,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s.
• Apparent viscosity can be determined using a Brookfield DVII RV viscometer, spindle TD, at 5rpm, or the equivalent thereof.
• the viscosity is determined on the composition after the composition has been allowed to stabilise following its preparation, generally at least 24 hours under conditions of 25°C +/- 1°C and ambient pressure after preparation of the composition. Apparent viscosity is measured with the composition at a temperature of 25°C +/- 1°C, after 30 seconds spindle rotation.
• compositions of the present invention are usually formulated to have a pH of 9.5 or below and in general have a pH in the range from about 4.5 to about 9, more preferably from about 5 to about 8.5.
• compositions particularly those comprising an additional active such as salicylic acid, require a lower pH in order for the additional active to be fully efficacious.
• These compositions are usually formulated to have a pH of from about 2.5 to about 5, more preferably from about 2.7 to about 4.
• compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of optional components, provided that such optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and do not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other use benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention.
• Optional components may be dispersed, dissolved or the like in the carrier of the present compositions.
• Optional components include emollients, oil absorbents, antimicrobial agents, binders, buffering agents, denaturants, cosmetic astringents, external analgesics, film formers, humectants, opacifying agents, perfumes, pigments, skin soothing and healing agents, preservatives, propellants, skin penetration enhancers, solvents, suspending agents, emulsifiers, cleansing agents, thickening agents, solubilising agents, waxes, sunscreens, sunless tanning agents, antioxidants and/or radical scavengers, chelating agents, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents, desquamation agents/exfoliants, organic hydroxy acids, vitamins and natural extracts.
• Nonexclusive examples of such materials are described in Harry's Cosmeticologv. 7th Ed., Harry & Wilkinson (Hill Publishers, London 1982); in Pharmaceutical Dosage Forms- Disperse Systems; Lieberman, Rieger & Banker, Vols. 1 (1988) & 2 (1989); Marcel Decker, Inc.; in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics. 2nd. Ed.. deNavarre (Van Nostrand 1962-1965); and in The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. 1st Ed.. Knowlton & Pearce (Elsevier 1993). can also be used in the present invention.
• compositions of the present invention comprise an organic particulate material having a refractive index of from about 1J to about 1.7, the particulate material being dispersed in the composition and having a volume average particle size in the range of from about 5 to about 30 ⁇ m, preferably from about 8 to about 25 ⁇ m.
• the organic particulate material being of at least equal diameter to the oil layer on the skin created by the compositions of the present invention, acts as a non-greasy lubricant which improves the overall skin feel and is also be useful in offsetting stickiness.
• the volume average particle size is measured when the particulate material is in the neat form i.e. in the essentially pure, powder form prior to combination with the carrier of the invention.
• Particular methods of measuring particle size may, however, require the particulate material to be dispersed in an inert carrier, such as a pure oil, in order to measure the particle size distribution.
• Particle size can be determined by any suitable method known in the art, such as by using coulter-counter equipment or the ASTM Designation E20 - 85 "Standard Practice for Particle Size Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range of 0J to 75 Micrometers by Optical Microscopy", ASTM Volume 14.02, 1993.
• Refractive index can be determined by conventional methods. For example, a method for determining the refractive index which is applicable to the present invention is described in J. A. Dean, Ed., Lange's Handbook of Chemistry, 14th Ed., McGraw Hill, New York, 1992, Section 9, Refractometry.
• the refractive index is preferably in the range from about 1.35 to about 1.6, this range closely matching the refractive index of skin.
• compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%), more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5%, especially from about 0.5% to about 2%, of the organic particulate material.
• Preferred particulates are free-flowing, porous, materials, especially those having spheroidal particles.
• Suitable organic particulate materials include those made of poly- methylsilsesquioxane, referenced above, polyamide, polythene, polyacrylonitrile, poly- acrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and poly- (vinylidene chloride). Copolymers derived from monomers of the aforementioned materials can also be used.
• Preferred are polyamides, especially nylon. Particularly preferred for use herein are porous, nylon particles having a volume average particle size in the range of from about 15 to about 25 ⁇ m. Suitable nylon particles are commercially available from Elf Atochem SA, Paris, France under the tradename Orgasol®.
• compositions may contain other inorganic or organic particulate materials.
• organic particulates in the compositions of the invention consist essentially of the particulate material described in this section entitled "Organic Particulate Material.”
• compositions of the present invention is a green, platelet-type interference pigment material having a Ti ⁇ 2 layer thickness of from about 120nm to about 160nm or a whole number multiple thereof.
• the interference pigment material comprises platelet type mica which is coated with Ti ⁇ 2- The colour of the reflected light varies depending on the thickness of the layer.
• the interference pigment material used in the present invention comprises at least a proportion of pigment material having a Ti ⁇ 2 layer thickness of from about 120nm to about 160nm or a whole number multiple thereof such that the pigment itself has an overall green appearance when applied to skin as a result of light reflection from the pigment platelets.
• interference pigment materials for use in the composition of the invention have Ti ⁇ 2 layer thicknesses of about 150nm and about 250 nm, preferably about 150 nm. Suitable examples are those supplied by Merck under the trade name Timiron®, especially Timiron® Silk Green, or supplied by Mearl under the trade name Flamenco®, especially Flamenco® Satin Green.
• the interference pigment is generally present at a level of from about 0.05Vo to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0J%> to about 1%, more preferably from about 0J%> to about 0.5%.
• Inorganic matting agents such as titanium or zinc oxides, are also useful in the compositions of the present invention.
• the matting agent is used at a level of no more than 3%> to avoid undesirable skin whitening or an unnaturally 'opaque' appearance.
• Preferred for use herein is titanium dioxide and especially anatase titanium dioxide.
• Anatase titanium oxide has a density of about 3.90 g/cm 3 and a tetragonal, cubic close packed structure.
• the refractive index of anatase titanium oxide is 2.55.
• Anatase titanium dioxide is available from Kobo Products Inc.
• the preferred matting agents for use herein from the viewpoint of skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are coated pigments.
• the pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids such as lysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene, lecithin and ester oils.
• the most preferred matting agents are the organosilicon (polysiloxane) treated pigments, for example polysiloxane treated titanium dioxide. Most prefened is polysiloxane treated anatase titanium dioxide.
• the function of the surface treatment is to hydrophobically-modify the pigments so that they are "wettable" in an oil phase of oil-in-water emulsions.
• the total concentration of the inorganic matting agent may be from about 0%> to about 3%> and is preferably from about 0.1 to about 2.5%, preferably from about 0.25 to 2%
• a highly preferred, but optional, component of the compositions of this invention is panthenol.
• Panthenol is also useful for regulating skin condition but can additionally provide short-term benefits such as humectancy. Panthenol is preferably used at levels of from 0.1 to about 5%>, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 3%>.
• compositions of this invention optionally contain a retinoid.
• Retinoids are also useful for regulating skin condition.
• retinoid includes all natural and/or synthetic analogues of Vitamin A or retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds.
• the retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2 - C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all- trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid) or its esters such as tocopheryl retinoate.
• retinol retinol esters
• retinyl esters e.g., C2 - C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate
• retinoids other than retinoic acid are used. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Other retinoids which are useful herein are described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,677,120, issued Jun. 30, 1987 to Parish et al; 4,885,311, issued Dec. 5, 1989 to Parish et al; 5,049,584, issued Sep. 17, 1991 to Purcell et al.; 5,124,356, issued Jun. 23, 1992 to Purcell et al; and Reissue 34,075, issued Sep. 22, 1992 to Purcell et al..
• Preferred retinoids are the retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl propionate. Most preferred are retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate.
• compositions preferably contain from about 0.005%> to about 2%, more preferably 0.01% to about 2%, retinoid.
• Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.01%) to about 0J5%>; retinol esters are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01%) to about 2% (e.g., about 1%>); retinoic acids are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01%> to about 0J5%>; tocopheryl retinoate is preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01 %> to about 2%>.
• Emollients The topical compositions of the subject invention generally comprise from about 1%> to about 50%, preferably from about 3% to about 15%> of a dermatologically acceptable emollient.
• Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the smoothness and suppleness of the skin, prevent or relieve dryness of the skin, and/or protect the skin.
• Emollients are typically water-immiscible, oily or waxy materials.
• the high spreading oils and anti-tack agents of the present invention also act as emollients.
• a wide variety of other suitable emollients are known and may be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics. Science and Technology. 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp.
• emollients include: i) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms, such as dodecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane and the C7-C40 isoparaffms, which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons. ii) C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, e.g.
• isononyl isononanoate isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate, and diisopropyl dilinoleate.
• ester emollients already described above.
• alkylene glycol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids e.g. ethylene glycol mono- and di- esters, and propylene glycol mono- and di- esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids e.g., ethylene glycol distearate.
• C1-C30 mono- and poly- esters of sugars and related materials are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature.
• Examples include: glucose tetraoleate, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1 J molar ratio, and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1:3:4 molar ratio.
• Organopolysiloxane oils include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose. Other examples of such materials are described in WO 96/16636. A particularly prefened material is known by the INCI name sucrose polycottonseedate vi) Organopolysiloxane oils.
• the organopolysiloxane oil may be volatile, non- volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non- volatile silicones.
• non- volatile refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmospheric of pressure) of or greater than about 100° C.
• volatile as used in this context refers to all other silicone oils.
• Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones spanning a broad range of volatilities and viscosities. Non- volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, issued December 3, 1991. Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Prefened among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.
• Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils examples include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, partially and fully hydrogenated oils from the foregoing sources, and mixtures thereof.
• animal fats and oils e.g. cod liver oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.
• C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols C1 -C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and di-C -C3Q alkyl ethers, examples of which include PPG- 14 butyl ether, PPG- 15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
• Humectants include PPG- 14 butyl ether, PPG- 15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
• a highly preferred optional component is a humectant, particularly of the polyhydric alcohol-type.
• Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydro- xypropyl sorbitol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol (e.g., 1,3-butylene glycol), hexane triol (e.g., 1,2,6-hexanetriol), glycerine, ethoxylated glycerine and propoxylated glycerine.
• sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, guanidine e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium
• glycolic acid and glycolate salts e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium
• lactic acid and lactate salts e.g.
• aloe vera in any of its variety of forms (e.g., aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g., salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate); lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide mono- ethanolamine; urea; panthenol; sodium pyroglutamate (NaPCA), water-soluble glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate lubricants (such as Hispagel®) and mixtures thereof.
• aloe vera gel e.g., aloe vera gel
• hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof e.g., salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate
• lactamide monoethanolamine acetamide mono- ethanolamine
• urea panthenol
• NaPCA sodium pyroglutamate
• water-soluble glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate lubricants such as Hispagel®
• humectants are selected from glycerine, glyceryl polyacrylate, urea, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is glycerine, which can be used at levels of from about 1 to about 15%, preferably from about 4%> to about 14%>. It is known in the art that glycerine can also give rise to a feeling of stickiness at these levels. It has been found that the benefits of the vitamin B3 compound stickiness reduction afforded by the anti-tack agents of the present invention also extend to reducing the stickiness or tack of glycerine.
• glycerine levels of from about 7% to about 15%> are suitable, preferred levels are from about 9% to about 14%.
• levels of from about 4% to about 8%> are preferred, more preferred is from about 5% to about 7%.
• Especially preferred formulations of the present invention include both niacinamide and glycerine with a total niacinamide and glycerine content of from about 7% to about 16%, preferably from about 9% to about 15%, with total niacinamide and glycerine levels of from about 8% to about 12%> preferred for use on hands and from about 12%> to about 15% preferred for use on the face and / or body.
• compositions herein preferably contain an emulsifier and/or surfactant, generally to help disperse and suspend the discontinuous phase within the continuous phase.
• a surfactant may also be useful if the product is intended for skin cleansing.
• emulsifiers will be referred to under the term 'surfactants', thus 'surfactant(s)' will be used to refer to surface active agents whether used as emulsifiers or for other surfactant purposes such as skin cleansing.
• Known or conventional surfactants can be used in the composition, provided that the selected agent is chemically and physically compatible with essential components of the composition, and provides the desired characteristics. Suitable surfactants include silicone materials, non-silicone materials, and mixtures thereof.
• compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.05% to about 15%) of a surfactant or mixture of surfactants.
• a surfactant or surfactant mixture chosen will depend upon the pH of the composition and the other components present.
• Preferred surfactants are nonionic.
• nonionic surfactants that are useful herein are those that can be broadly defined as condensation products of long chain alcohols, e -g- C -30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers, i.e., glycosides.
• These compounds can be represented by the formula (S) n -O-R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C _3o alkyl group.
• long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like.
• Preferred examples of these surfactants include those wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a Cg_20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9.
• surfactants include decyl poly- glucoside (available as APG 325 CS from Henkel), lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG 600 CS and 625 CS from Henkel) and cetearyl polyglucoside (available as Montanov 68 from Seppic Corp.)
• Other useful nonionic surfactants include the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide esters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO(X) n OH wherein R is a Cj ⁇ -30 a ⁇ yl group, X is -OCH2CH2- (i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OC LCHCH3- (i.e.
• nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with 2 moles of fatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide diesters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO(X) n OOCR wherein R is a C10-30 alkyl group, X is -OCH2CH2-(i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3-(i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100.
• Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (i.e.
• alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols These materials have the general formula R(X) n OR' wherein R is a Ci Q. 30 alkyl group, X is -OCH2CH2-(i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH ⁇ CHCH3- (i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100 and R' is H or a C 10-30 alkyl group.
• Still other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with both fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. wherein the polyalkylene oxide portion is esterified on one end with a fatty acid and etherified (i.e.
• n is an integer from about 6 to about 100, examples of which include ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, PEG-6 stearate, PEG- 10 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, and mixtures thereof.
• Still other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants, which are described in more detail in WO 98/04241.
• nonionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, steareth-100, PEG- 100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
• nonionic surfactants suitable for use herein include sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1 -C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 esters of polyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, and mixtures thereof.
• non-silicon-containing surfactants include: polysorbate 20, polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
• emulsifier useful herein are fatty acid ester blends based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each instance being preferably C -C24, more preferably C ⁇ o-C20-
• the preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C ⁇ 6-C20 f ⁇ tty ac id ester with sucrose C ⁇ Q- Ci6 fatty acid ester, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.
• hydrophilic surfactants useful herein can alternatively or additionally include any of a wide variety of cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants such as are known in the art. See, e.g., McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers. North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S. Patent No. 5,011,681 to Ciotti et al., issued April 30, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,421,769 to Dixon et al, issued December 20, 1983; and U.S. Patent No. 3,755,560 to Dickert et al., issued August 28, 1973.
• Anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants surfactants can be used herein, in general though they are more suited to rinse-off cleansing compositions and their levels are kep to below 4%, preferably below 1%.
• Exemplary anionic surfactants include the alkoyl isethionates (e.g., C *
• alkoyl isethionates e.g., C *
• alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof alkyl and alkyl ether phosphates and salts thereof
• amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl imino acetates, iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates, imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives.
• suitable amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, hydro- xysultaines, alkyl sarcosinates (e.g., C ⁇ 2 - C30 and alkanoyl sarcosinates.
• Preferred emulsions of the present invention include a silicone containing emulsifier or surfactant.
• silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are typically organically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants.
• Useful silicone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethyl siloxanes which have been modified to include polyether side chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, and polyether chains containing moieties derived from both ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.
• dimethicone copolyols examples include alkyl-modified dimethicone copolyols, i.e., compounds which contain C2-C30 pendant side chains.
• Still other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials having various cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic pendant moieties.
• Thickening Agent (including thickeners and gelling agents)
• compositions of the present invention can also comprise a thickening agent, preferably at a level of from about 0J%o to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2%.
• Suitable thickening agents include cellulose and derivatives such as cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
• alkyl substituted celluloses are also useful herein.
• the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroyxalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with a C10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an ether linkage.
• these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses.
• alkyl groups useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e.
• Other useful thickeners include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan,
• compositions of the present invention include a thickening agent selected from carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected polyacrylamide polymers, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
• Preferred polyacrylamides are predispersed in a water-immiscible solvent such as mineral oil and the like, containing a surfactant (HLB from about 7 to about 10) which helps to facilitate water dispersibility of the polyacrylamide.
• a surfactant HLB from about 7 to about 10
• a safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0.1%. to about 5%>, more preferably from about 0J%> to about 2%, of the composition.
• the anti-inflammatory agent enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, e.g., such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or colour.
• the exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent to be used in the compositions will depend on the particular anti- inflammatory agent utilised since such agents vary widely in potency.
• Anti-inflammatory agents useful herein include steroids such as hydrocortisone; non- steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) such as ibuprofen; panthenol and ether and ester derivatives thereof e.g. panthenol ethyl ether, panthenyl triacetate; pantothenic acid and salt and ester derivatives thereof, especially calcium pantothenate; aloe vera, bisabolol, allantoin and compounds of the liquorice (the plant genus/species Glycyrrhiza glabra) family, including glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof e.g.
• steroids such as hydrocortisone
• non- steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) such as ibuprofen
• panthenol and ether and ester derivatives thereof e.g. panthenol ethyl ether, panthenyl tria
• salts such as ammonium glycyrrhizinate and esters such as stearyl glycyrrhetinate.
• Particularly preferred herein are panthenol, pantothenic acid and their ether, ester or salt derivatives and mixtures thereof; suitable levels are from about 0J to about 5%>, preferably from about 0.5 to about 3%>. Panthenol is especially preferred.
• Sunscreens and Sunblocks Compositions of the subject invention can contain a sunscreen.
• Suitable sunscreens can be organic or inorganic.
• Especially preferred organic sunscreens include butylmethoxy- dibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene.
• Inorganic sunscreens include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Amounts of the sunscreen used are typically from about 1%> to about 20%>, more typically from about 2% > to about 10%. Exact amounts will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF).
• SPF Sun Protection Factor
• compositions useful in the subject invention may also be added to any of the compositions useful in the subject invention to improve the skin substantivity of those compositions, particularly to enhance their resistance to being washed off by water, or rubbed off.
• a preferred agent which will provide this benefit is a copolymer of ethylene and acrylic acid. Compositions comprising this copolymer are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,663,157, Brock, issued May 5, 1987.
• compositions of the subject invention can further include an anti-oxidant/radical scavenger.
• the anti-oxidant/radical scavenger is especially useful for providing protection against UV radiation which can cause increased scaling or texture changes in the stratum corneum and against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage. Suitable amounts are from about 0J%> to about 10%>, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition.
• Anti-oxidants/radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), ⁇ - carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic acids and their salts, gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, amines (e.g., N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and its salts, bioflavonoids, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extracts, grape
• a chelating agent is especially useful for providing protection against UV radiation which can contribute to excessive scaling or skin texture changes and against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage.
• a suitable amount is from about 0.01%) to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, of the composition.
• Exemplary chelators that are useful herein are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,487,884.
• Preferred chelators useful in compositions of the subject invention are ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), furildioxime and derivatives thereof.
• Desquamation Agents/Exfoliants A safe and effective amount of a desquamation agent may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, more preferably from about 0J%> to about 10%>, even more preferably from about 0J%> to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5%> to about 4%> of the composition.
• Desquamation agents enhance the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, the desquamation agents tend to improve the texture of the skin (e.g., smoothness).
• desquamation agents are known in the art and are suitable for use herein, including organic hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and lanolin fatty acids.
• organic hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and lanolin fatty acids.
• One desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprises sulphydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in WO 96/01101.
• Another desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprises salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in WO 95/13048.
• Salicylic acid is preferred.
• compositions of the present invention can also comprise a skin lightening agent.
• the compositions preferably comprise from about 0J%> to about 10%>, more preferably from about 0J%> to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5%> to about 2%, of a skin lightening agent.
• Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
• Further skin lightening agents suitable for use herein also include those described in WO 95/34280 and WO 95/23780.
• compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods such as are known in the art of making topical compositions. Such methods typically involve mixing of the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, application of vacuum, and the like.
• compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating mammalian skin condition, especially human skin, more especially that of the hands or other non-facial parts of the body, including regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin, e.g., visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin texture, more especially discontinuities associated with skin ageing.
• Regulating skin condition involves topically applying to the skin a safe and effective amount of a composition of the present invention.
• the amount of the composition which is applied, the frequency of application and the period of use will vary widely depending upon the active levels of a given composition and the level of regulation desired, e.g., in light of the level of skin ageing present in the subject and the rate of further skin ageing.
• compositions of the present invention can be employed to provide a skin appearance and/or feel benefit.
• Quantities of the present compositions which are typically applied per application are, in mg composition/cm ⁇ skin, from about 0J mg/cm-2 to about 10 mg/cm ⁇ .
• a particularly useful application amount is about 2 mg/cm-2.
• applications would be on the order of about once per day, however application rates can vary from about once per week up to about three times per day or more.
• the compositions of this invention provide a visible improvement in skin condition essentially immediately following application of the composition to the skin. Such immediate improvement involves coverage or masking of skin imperfections such as textural discontinuities (including those associated with skin ageing, such as enlarged pores), and/or providing a more even skin tone or colour.
• compositions of the invention which comprise an active for chronically regulating skin also provide visible improvements in skin condition following chronic topical application of the composition.
• Chronic topical application involves continued topical application of the composition over an extended period during the subject's lifetime, typically for periods of at least about one week, more preferably for a period of at least about one month. Typically applications would be on the order of about once per day over such extended periods, however application rates can vary from about once per week up to about three times per day or more.
• an essentially immediate visual improvement in skin appearance is provided e.g., reduced visibility of pores and a more even skin tone.
• Continuation of application at the same rate once or twice daily for a period of 3-6 months improves skin surface texture, including diminishing fine lines and wrinkles, in addition to the essentially immediate improvements in appearance.
• a facial skin cream is re ared from the followin com onents:

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